Bleed Brakes Yourself with OR without Special Tools
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- Опубликовано: 24 июн 2017
- A few techniques on how to bleed brakes on your own. Using a vacuum pump certainly makes the job quicker, however, it's not a necessity to complete the job. Ending Music: Rustled Feathers by Silent Partner.
General rule of thumb, start bleeding with the right rear wheel - then left front - left rear - and lastly right front.
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Note:
This video is being performed by an experienced tech. Any attempt to repair automotive parts and/or systems carries risk of personal injury. Always adhere and follow safe practices when working on vehicles. Such as, use safety glasses, jack stands, no loose clothing, etc. No guarantee or warranty is implied. Use the information in this video at your own risk. If you don't think you can perform the job then be smart and don't. Carsntoys is a member of the Amazon Influencer Program.
Publication, reproduction or distribution of this film is strictly prohibited.
Bleed Brakes Yourself with OR without Special Tools
• Bleed Brakes Yourself ...
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The ABS sensor on each wheel has nothing to do with the brake bleeder on the respective wheel.
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for a thorough brake bleeding process! I've learned a lot, and you've given more than one option. Excellent!
From the looks of that rotor, blushing the brake fluid is the least of the needs of this brake system.
I've watched a few videos and this is the most useful, especially the zip tie. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks so much for taking the time to post this--very helpful!
Glad to help!
Thank you for showing how to do the brake bleeding on your own, without a pump!! Helped this first timer replace a broken brake hose.
Best instruction video I've seen for this topic...
Thank you.
Thanks for the tips. Keep up the good work. Thanks for sharing.
The collar on the dumbbell is on the wrong direction. LOL!
Very well explained, thanks buddy!!
Thank you. I appreciate the feedback.
Leave lid off the reservoir you get much better suction with the vacuum
Wow thanks I'll definitely try this tomorrow dont feel.like asking for help with this.
good video!
Brilliant.
Good video. I like your idea of using zip ties to clamp down the tube onto the bleeder screw to keep air from getting in. Working by yourself always lends to coming up with creative solutions. Did you have any problems breaking your bleeder screws loose, as you look like you live in an area where they salt the roads in the winter. Thank you for posting and God Bless...
Thank you. Using a crescent wrench is key. It grips the ends extremely well. Cheers.
another way to self bleed the abs motor is slamming them on going down a dirt road. the abs will cycle and self bleed itself. then just follow up with regular bleeding and its good as new.
Yep. Gravel or dirt will safely do it. Don't do it in the rain or snow.
do you bleed furthest from servo first? or closest too first?
How about a bottle and hose option without a pump, dumbell or or second person? Is that really safe as well?
You should be a teacher man. Your tutorials are great. Matt.
Thanks. Appreciate the feedback.
not knowing the difference between a tubing wrench and a cresant wrench make a teacher not happening.
How about someone who can't spell crescent ??
very helpful ,,Thanks
Question I’m planing on doing this on my 05 Crv and replace the brake fluid but ? Do I need to disconnecting the abs sensor you said ? Why ?
i didn't on my Silverado work just fine
I have 3 cars to bleed. That’s 12 +3 zip ties. There has to be a better option to keep the air out. Can you borrow some little coolant clamps?
That’s the maxima right? Do you have issues bleeding the abs?
The correct term for the wrench in use is a Tubing wrench or Flared Fitting wrench, and although your wrench is made by Crescent, crescent usually implies a universal adjustable type that can throw people off base if they aren't paying close attention. Some calipers simply do not have enough clearance around the bleed screw for the wrench depicted, and some people are tempted to use a thin wall 12 point box end wrench which is the worst possible choice because it will likely round off the hex bleeder.There is a wrench made for the job, called a box bleeder wrench, which is a 6 point thin wall offset full box wrench made just for bleed nipples. It comes in SAE 5/16-3/8 and metric 8-10mm versions. I do a lot of brake work and consider this $10 investment a must.I'm surprised that more people don't know there is a wrench made for the job.
Thank you.
It's called a "line wrench." If you don't own a set of line wrenches you can always use a 1/4" drive 6 point socket to break it loose, then bleed with a standard combination wrench.
Just break it free with a 6 point socket, tighten it a bit, then use a regular 6 point wrench. No need for special wrenches!
Good video... Question: do you leave the master cylinder reservoir un-capped for the bleeding process? Some people do and others don't. I believe that "open" would help the bleeding process..... What do you think?
I think the reason why they do it is in case fluid goes back to it it doesnt get too much pressure and crack the reservoir.
They say start at the far end first, as long as you do all 4 does it really matter?
Generally, yes. It's listed in the description box but a good rule of thumb is rear passenger side - front drivers - rear drivers - front passenger side.
Eerrrr ~ I thought you said 'NO SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED'? That "Mityvac mv8000" looks mighty special to me.
You don't. You didn't watch the entire video...?
Hi there good looking young man, Question, what if my bleeder valves won't turn due to rust? What should I do? I did WD40 and tried to remove them slowly but they don't move a bit. Thanks.
Try using a rust penetrator such as PB blaster and let it soak for at least 15 min. Make sure you are using a FLARE wrench as opposed to an open box wrench. Second to last option is using a torch to heat up the bleeder. Dont over do it. Last option is replace the caliper.
@@wangevo Thank you!
Old post, but what I do is shoot it with some PB Blaster or WD-40 and let it sit. THEN get yourself a 6 point socket to break it loose so you don't round it off.
Is this procedure safe to do with abs vehicles?
It works on all of them.
then when you open the bleeder nut the pedal falls to the floor,off comes the stick up goes the pedal intaking air???????????then what
I've used this technique my whole life. I've never had the piece of wood fall off.
Hi thumbs up i was doing this before but one way check valve and bottole and pumping no need for dumple or press 😁 but i feel tired doing this every 2 years so yesterday bought vacum pump once arrived ill do it by vacum easier but ill not take out the tire ill lay down and snug the hose and untighten the nut👍👍👍 but i dont like zip tie idea better bet tighter hose and itll be better😁
why does the battery have to be disconnected? You can't use the power seats without the batery.
It can effect the abs actuator. It's on the slim chance of happening but a possibility nonetheless.
It did affect it on my passat.. all 4 brakes kicked in on the highway and got very hot 😮 after i stopped and started the car, it ran without problems 😓😓 what a day!
Hi, can i use this method if i want to switch from DOT 3 brake fluid to DOT 4 brake fluid?
Or I have to take out all the old DOT 3 brake fluid from the brake line and master cylinder first before adding the new DOT 4?
I'm afraid you'll need to drain the system. Add Dot 4 and bleed the brakes.
DOT 3 and 4 can be mixed no problem.
lol? he was raving about using the flare nut end, then proceed to use the box end. XD
the wrench has 2 flare nut ends. it just looks like a box nut end in a few of the shots.
Put brake grease on bleeder valve no air gets in that way
Thank you. That's a great tip.
This is the best trick + make's the vacuum bleeder great for use by DIY.Thanks
can you please link an amazon brake grease that you recommend for this? thx
@@MegaDominican Silicone slide grease works.
Would one have to remove the wheels to do this i hope not
Certainly makes it easier.
Is that brake caliper and rotor rusted? The heck is going on with that?
20 years of northeast snow, salt and nasty weather.
CarsNToys glad I don't have to deal with that in the south. I can imagine getting a simple bolt loose can sometimes become a whole day job.
Yea, you get used to it. Good tools go a long way. Cheers.
Your using a "Line wrench"
Crescent is a manufacturer of wrenches..if I still know my wrenches.
Yes, I made a mistake. It's not a crescent wrench. It's a flare wrench. Thank you.
@@CarsNToys no problem..just trying to be one of those "knowitalls"
@@CarsNToys good diy video
You right. That was a flare wench. A crescent is a a manufactory company that usually makes adjustable wrenches
1:10 It's a flare wrench. In common vernacular, a crescent wrench is an adjustable wrench. Crescent is a brand of wrench tools, it's like I need a band-aid or a coke.
Thank you and good catch!
When I would try vacuum bleeding I would get air seeping into the bleeder valve through the bleeder valve threads. I found that pressure bleeding worked best for me.
I've had the same problem. Was hoping there was a solution in this video. I've removed the bleeder screw and added teflon tape to the threads before. I think that helped but cant remember for sure.
@@stevevanpelt4475 use brake grease on the bleeder nipple it will prevent air from seeping passed the threads.
I've found that silicone grease works just as well & is less messy than brake or wheel bearing grease, another pro tip I learned is to put on a few extra pairs of those rubber gloves like the ones dude is wearing in this video & just shed them as they get too dirty
i didn't have the time or things to make one! bottle, hoses ect. i bought a 1 person bleeder kt for 10 dollars and it got the job done! Not the greatest thing! but got it done !> I did like the magnet on the bottle! can stick it any where on the vehicle to hold it but the hose end was way to small to go over the bleeder valve . I had to heat up the hose end to put over the valve > I didn't like that at all
Lol I thought I was the only one who used the seat to push the brake pedal using a 2x4. I mostly did it to check brake lights though.
lol yea it's a big help
In Canada a snowbrush is often used. It is just the right length. You have to turn off those pesky brake lights though somehow.
From the looks of your roto and calibers bleed your brakes is the least of your worries
A skateboard works good to hold the brake down 👌🏼
I like it!
Like the zip-tie on the Bleeder Valve, and the Dumbell on the Brake Pedal, Idea(s)! - 👍
Thanks!
A "crescent" wrench😂
i don't like using ties to hold the hose on the valve either! If the bottle got fluid in it , so air can't sucked in, just easy pump your break then release the valve, go back press easy, Go look at the line! if it got air bubbles go back and pump some more until there no air in the bleeder line and your good close it off > fill your master cylinder up again! do it to the next wheel > What you don't want to see is dirty brake fluid or air bubbles in the bleeder line keep flush the dirty crap out until its clear! and no air bubbles! Your good! go to the next wheel do the same thing> i guess these calipers and master cylinder holds dirt and water
It looks like you have to do an entire brake rebuild first.
soon as he called a tubing wrench a cresant wrench i knew this was bs.
dont forget to disconect your abs sensor too
Disconnecting ABS or negative at the battery is completely unnecessary as well smh
Dispose of your brake fluid properly, don't dump it or throw it away like regular garbage, it's pretty toxic and hazardous. Find a garage / shop that will take it, or drop it off at a local hazardous waste depot.
Good tip. Thank you.
it dissolves in water ..
A better method if you have time and patience is to simply put a length of tubing on the nipple and the other end under brake fluid in a bottle. Mark the level on the bottle. Then simply open the nipple a little and let gravity bleed the brake. No need to be pumping on brake pedals and repeatedly opening and closing bleed nipples. There's always a risk of reversing seals and or putting the master cylinder seal in a position it doesn't usually go during normal brake operation with a risk of tearing that. Also no air leaks in past the nipple threads this way which can often defeat the object of bleeding them by suction.
When you think you've drained enough fluid, by looking at the level in respect to your original mark, simply tighten up the nipple and remove the piping. Not forgetting to top up the master cylinder.
However, this would be totally useless for a professional mechanic who doesn't have the luxury of time or someone without patience.
If you want this method to work quicker then pump the brake pedal a few times but only halfway for the reasons given above.
Why not to use a big syringe(50¢) instead of a vacuum pump (30$)?????
It's 10 times easier to use, to buy and 60 times cheaper 🤷🏻♂️
Wow, those rotors looked nasty.
All great UNTIL you added the BLARING "music!!!
that is a tubing wrench, not a creasant wrench.
Thank you.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Put oil in bottle
Creative thinking is key when you can't even locate a homeless guy to help. 👍🏻
It’s not pressure, it’s vacuum. That’s ok, I think we get the idea.
I didn't watch the whole video after about 2:30. I just don't have the time to "chime in" these days. Your video is good, but there are a few things that would make it better. ...Sealing the bleeder hoses is good, but you WILL still suck air into your collector bottle through the bleeder valve from your caliper...leading you to believe air is still in the system. The ONLY way you can use a "suction" system to "bleed" a hydraulic brake system is to make sure there are NO possible leaks in the system. That means EVERY single bleeder, brake line fitting, hydraulic cylinder, etc. is completely free of a leak, all the way down to the pistons in the calipers! I was one of five top thermodynamic fluid engineers in the world a few years back. Trust me, the ONLY way too truly bleed a complex hydraulic system is to provide at least a slightly greater positive pressure at the high point (master fluid reservoir), than where you are creating a vacuum. ALSO, you need to make sure that positive to negative pressure differential exists EVERYWHERE throughout the active hydraulic path. (That means you can't have a master cylinder/ABS unit, etc. etc. etc. creating a restriction of flow between the reservoir and the bleeder you are opening). IMO suction devices for bleeding can work, but "old school" pressure to the pedal (or other pressure device) work better, especially when someone in the car is "feeling" the increase in solid bake pressure. But again, I think your video is much better than most.
I was doing it for a living when I retired after 55 years. I have ALWAY used the Mityvac method, unless I was in a shop with a pressure bleeder, or someone to pump and hold the pedal. I've never had an issue using the vacuum method.
N
Just took back a Mightyvac.
It was a useless piece of junk.
I've seen the ratings on Amazon. I've had no issues. Appreciate the feedback.