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If the original gears were not damaged or broken, then they are not your problem. Yes, there is an electrical component that sends power to the odometer/trip meter motor in the cluster. It's one of the many wires going into the connector on the back of the cluster. Different year mustangs have different connector configurations, so I can't tell you which wire to look at first. Good luck.

Sorry, I don't remember where I bought it. Probably on amazon. Search for "Cable Luber Tool". I saw a couple from BikeMaster & Tusk with a single screw that look promising. Good luck.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

Gravity & Murphy are cruel mistresses.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

No, nothing special. I always have a grease gun of generic chassis grease laying around that I use for this purpose (and to grease ball joints etc).

No problem. Glad to be of service. I'm glad my video helped you out.

You mean the drain plug o-ring? It's hard to say from here why it would pop out at 4 ft/lbs. My guess would be that the o-ring is the wrong size or thickness. Or there is something in the hole pushing the o-ring out. Good luck.

Turns out that amazon and auto zone orings are trash. Replaced the drain plug and it is good to go​@petrocksgarage

Thats great! I'm glad you got it sorted out.

Yes. The air typically enters in through the base of the bleeder screw where it screws into the caliper. So thats where you want the grease.

Use whatever works. You do you.

Neither am I (dyslexic). I usually just pause videos when text appears. But you do you. Sorry I didn't make the text stay up longer and thanks for the feedback.

fuel odometer? Do you mean the fuel gauge? The fuel gauge is controlled by the fuel sending unit attached to the fuel pump in the fuel tank. It could be misbehaving for many different reasons. Most likely would be a damaged/corroded wire between the gauge and the sending unit, or a bad sending unit. If you aren't good at tracking down electrical problems, I'd advise taking it to a shop to diagnose it. Good luck.

Glad to hear you got it figured out and fixed. That goo isn't RTV (the gasket maker) though. It's a glass adhesive. RTV might hold up, but keep an eye on it. If it does fail clean off the RTV really well and pick up some window glass adhesive/epoxy from your local auto parts store and re-apply. Prepping the surface is key, so follow the instructions. Good luck.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out. Pay it forward!

ITS A CONSPIRACY!!!! Or just watch the first half of the video. It shows how to take the control arms off and different techniques to remove the bushings.

Sorry, I don't have access to an '07, but I suspect it is very similar to how it's done in this video. Good luck.

Google translate for the win! These trucks came from the factory with RTV transmission pan gaskets. So it is perfectly fine to use it if you like. The fel-pro gaskets didn't exist when I made this video. Today they are preferred over RTV but not for the issues you mention, but for the ease of replacement and less mess. The issues you mention are exceedingly rare. You really have to mess up to have RTV cause a transmission problem.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

You're welcome.

Thats awesome that you figured out the problem and was able to fix it. Depending on the RTV you used (i.e. adhesive RTV, not oil gasket maker), it should do the job. There are Glass Weld/Adhesive/Epoxy/Glue stuff out there available at most autoparts stores that are specific for glass. They aren't cheap though. Getting stuff to stick to smooth surfaces, like glass, is tricky. Like with most glue jobs, prepping the surfaces is key. I found this video that might help you out too: ruclips.net/video/Fw4AQbIX4Uw/видео.html Re rivets, you can also use nuts & bolts.Thats what I did on my wife's car a while ago and haven't had an issue. I show it in my video on replacing the window regulator on a Mustang. I think I used 1/2" long bolts at 1/4"x20 thread pitch: ruclips.net/video/M8Hfz_rCOY0/видео.html Hope that helps & good luck!!!

Not sure why synthetic would make a difference. Its only purpose is to seal off any air leaks, not lubricate anything. As for PSI vs inHg, yes, inHg is the preferred unit of measure for vacuum. However, PSI can also be used since vacuum is a negative pressure. They can be used interchangeably with a simple unit conversion. But you are right that I should have said inHg in the video as I mentioned in the description a number if years ago. Thanks.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

No problem. Glad to be of service. Good luck.

Thanks a lot, I appreciate it. Glad to be of service.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

Glad to be of service

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Good luck with the belt adjustment. There are a number of videos on the subject and its really not too difficult. I don't have a video on it though. I should probably make one at some point. Good luck.

@@petrocksgarage thanks yea I've watched a few already. it's more tedious than hard.

@@forsaken1776, good luck!

Thanks a lot. Glad to be of service. Re getting the caliper off, how easy it is entirely depends on your exhaust and where it sits relative to the calipers. With my exhaust, sitting on the bike puts the bolts in a worse position. For some exhaust pipes, removing the pipes entirely is the only way to get access to the caliper bolts or even be able to remove the rear axle. And for those with shorty pipes they don't have to touch the exhaust at all. Either way, I'm glad you figured out a method that works for you. Thanks for sharing. It is thinking outside the box for sure.

No problem. Glad to be of service. Depending on what they did to the top it could easily require a re-alignment. If the top still functions properly and the top frame doesn't look bent or damaged, and the weather stripping looks in good shape, I wouldn't worry too much about it. But i would ask to drop the price a little to account for this issue (unless they want to adjust it themselves before you buy). Good luck.

@@petrocksgarage Yeah, I'm still trying to decide if this is the car I want, but I'm for sure gonna offer them less than their asking after seeing it in person. There was no damage or wrecks reported, but there was definitely some less than stellar repainting done on the front end and around the front window frame. I hope it's just from rock chips, but you never know with cars this old.

​ @freakfiveoh , good luck with the negotiations. I would definitely take it to a mechanic to check it out top to bottom. It's a Cobra so I highly doubt it has been driven 'gingerly'. Good luck.

No problem. Glad to be of service.

You loosen the upper bump stop and then roll up the window to get pretty close to the peak up position. The window will move the bump stops where they need to be as you roll it up. The window could stop when it hits the weather stripping. It can be too high if your weather stripping is old/worn out/damaged/malformed, so some adjustment may be needed after the initial step. If the bump stop is as low as it goes and the window is still too high then I would double check the weather stripping to see if it is sagging, damaged or too low. Make sure the virtual window tracks are not bent/damaged/loose. Also make sure that the 1/8" rubber pad is still on the bump stop, if not that could be your problem. Also make sure that the bump stop is not bent. It should be in roughly the shape of an L. If all that checks out, maybe glue on some additional rubber padding to the pump stop or lip on the window that hits the bump stop to 'extend' the bump stop a little. But that should be a last resort IMO. Good luck.

Could you elaborate on why? According to rockauto.com, the rack & pump are the same between the 3.8L, 5.0L & 5.8L of that vintage Mustang. The pump should work the same when spun in the same direction the engine would spin it. The pump shouldn't care if the belt is spinning it or a ratchet.

@@petrocksgarage I thought you said to use a 3/8" ratchet to turn the pulley. A 3/8" ratchet won't go into the fitting, however, a 3/8" hex will work. I will go back and listen again. Perhaps I misunderstood what you said. Update: I heard wrong. You did say 3/8" hex socket. I missed "hex socket" and thought you said 3/8" socket.

@@Methodical2, yeah, hex head socket. 🙂 No problem. Glad we've gotten this sorted out.

@@Methodical2, yeah, a hex head socket. Sorry if I didn't make it clearer. You had me considering going to a parts store and getting a pump for your year in my hands to see what you were talking about. Glad we got it sorted out before I made the drive. 😀

Nope. If you disarm the alarm normally with the key fob the battery can be disconnected without any issues, like I show in the video. The alarm doesn't go off when I disconnected it.

Getting to know my dodge Dakota 3.9 liter 2000yr

@@laurachavezmendoza8706, your motor is different. This video is on a 4.7L, not a 3.9L. IMS, your motor is closer to the 5.9L motor that also came in this era truck. But I do show how to change the bottom hose for a 4.7L in this video. I'd recommend getting the factory service manual for your year & model truck. It will have more info in it than you could imagine on how to maintain your new (to you) truck. They are available at your dealer, and can be found online too. Avoid Chiltons and Haynes manuals. They are garbage. Good luck.

Congrats on the new (to you) ride! You take care of it and it will take care of you. Just remember, these bikes were meant to be ridden. Enjoy!!!

I don't have the service manual handy right now, and I've never had to loosen or remove them, but my guess is they are mounting bolts. They are not something that you would normally need to care about. I wouldn't touch them unless you absolutely need to and know what you are doing and why you are doing it. Good question and good luck.

I don't have the service manual handy right now, and I've never had to loosen or remove them, but my guess is they are mounting bolts. They are not something that you would normally need to care about. I wouldn't touch them unless you absolutely need to and know what you are doing and why you are doing it.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it & the views.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.

I haven't seen a circuit diagram for the internals of the auto up/down feature, but my edumacated guess is that it relies on the property of electric motors where when the motor gets stuck and can't spin the amp draw goes through the roof. When the window hits the bump stops at the top or bottom of the door and stops moving the electric motor will start to strain to overcome what's blocking it and the amps will spike as a result. After you press the button to activate the feature the module thing in the door that I show in the video is probably monitoring the circuit for that amp spike. When it sees the amp spike it opens the circuit to stop the motor & window. But thats just a guess. As for your window problem, I can't really tell without looking at it, but I would guess that you are missing one or both bump stops at the top of the door (where the window comes out). They are supposed to stop the window from going up too far. There are similar stops at the bottom to make it not retract too far. I have a video on how to adjust these windows that shows all the bump stops you should have. Good luck. ruclips.net/video/E-TLxmP12QY/видео.html

@@petrocksgarage Thank you for the help!! I'll report back, might be a week or so. At least I'll get the door panel off and see what I can see. It's really hot here at the moment, 85 in the garage is too much for the old guy!

@@2wattsout Good luck!

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Unless your belt is already out of adjustment, you shouldn't need to touch the belt if you follow the steps in the video. The steps I show don't mess with the adjuster screws, so the belt tension is unchanged through the entire job.

Sorry to hear that. Sounds like you have aftermarket gears installed. Only non-destructive solution I can think of is to unbolt the ring gear. Torque the ring gear bolts down to 60 ft/lbs when reinstalling. Good luck.

@@petrocksgarage I thought the same, 40 years old after all. Even service data says it should clear. I left it (my personal vehicle) since i have an 8.8 ill install once the 7.5 grenades. Thanks

Well, at least you have a backup. Although if your motor is a V6, the 8.8 may be too big and may actually hurt performance depending on the gears that are in it. Good luck.

Other than having the alarm turned off? No.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my videos helped you out. Thats why I make them.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

I don't think so. I think the 8.8 spider gears are slightly bigger. They are different part numbers. But the install procedure is identical.

Hoses can get a P.I.T.A. to remove sometimes. They tend to adhere to the tube they attach to. Twisting them to break that bond tends to help. As for the housing, you have a 4.7L? That is what this video is about. IMS, the T-Stat on other motors in these trucks is where the top hose attaches to the motor. Hope that helps. Good luck.

No problem. Glad my videos are helping you out. I'd recommend picking up the factory service manual for your year & model bike. You should be able to order it from HD's web site. It is a treasure trove of info on how to maintain your bike yourself. There also may be an indy shop in your area to handle bigger jobs. Good luck.

RUclips University to the rescue!!!

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

I'm really not sure what you are referring to here. I do get to the radiator drain plug from the bottom. Its the only way to get to it since it is at the bottom of the radiator.