Finally a video that shows how to do this. The drivers side window in my daughters 95 GT hits the A frame so I hope this adjustment will work. Great video!
Well after looking around found out that the bump stop had fallen from the bottom of the window so the window had no way to stop going up. Ended up using high strength epoxy to glue it back on. Then using your method I was able to align the window. Window seats like new now, thanks again!
Really informative video, I wish I saw this first before wasting money. But one thing I wanna add to your video is that for some reason, on my 2002 Mustang gt coupe, in the back side of the window I only had the top bolt and not the one under it, my problem was that the window motor was bending the metal plate that stopped the window. I just got a flat head and a rock and bent that bad boy back to place.
You are awesome! Thanks for posting this. My 2000 Mustang convertible window is a little crooked now at rear and hits. I can pull up on window some too. I appreciate you showing all your tips to give me confidence to rip open my door & see if just a loose bolt or more serious problem. Thx.
Pet Rock's Garage My window is low at the front and makes the rear hit my roof. Passenger side. Can it be bad bushings or just bad alignment? Thanks man I’ll try this tomorrow when it stops raining.
@@petrocksgarage I got my door taken apart and window fixed. I found the factory glue let go, which held the rear part of the window in the U shaped channel. This caused it be crooked going up and down, plus hit on the convertible top when trying to close door. Thanks again.
I just want to say thank you so much for this video all the other ones I looked up they talk about everything but what they say they're going to do on to the very very end and they suck your video rocks thank you so very much you saved my interior and my window and my tint thank you 👍
Good Job on the video, I watched it a couple of times. If someone is just starting it may be helpful to know how to remove the panel. Also had a Speaker to remove and found another video showing where the screw is. Putting the panel back on the door may take two extra hands as it needs to catch the lock post and work around the door opener. I did not get the torque correct and twisted the 11 mm bolt off. Junk yard not far away. Making the adjustment was not as tough as I was anticipating. Again great job and thanks!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out. Yeah, I missed filming how to remove the panel. Sorry about that. It can be a game of 3D Tetris getting everything to line up.
Done very well. I had replaced my window motors & regulator but I had some whistling from the passenger side window after adjusting how I thought appropriate. After watching your video, all's copasetic.
Thanks for the video! I was just looking at a cobra convertible I'm thinking of buying, and both the driver and passenger windows need an alignment. I have no idea how they got so far out of alightment, but they did say they had just done some work on the top, so I assume it's related to that.
No problem. Glad to be of service. Depending on what they did to the top it could easily require a re-alignment. If the top still functions properly and the top frame doesn't look bent or damaged, and the weather stripping looks in good shape, I wouldn't worry too much about it. But i would ask to drop the price a little to account for this issue (unless they want to adjust it themselves before you buy). Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Yeah, I'm still trying to decide if this is the car I want, but I'm for sure gonna offer them less than their asking after seeing it in person. There was no damage or wrecks reported, but there was definitely some less than stellar repainting done on the front end and around the front window frame. I hope it's just from rock chips, but you never know with cars this old.
@freakfiveoh , good luck with the negotiations. I would definitely take it to a mechanic to check it out top to bottom. It's a Cobra so I highly doubt it has been driven 'gingerly'. Good luck.
Thanks! The front of driver’s window was too high by A pillar and back part of window caught the part of molding by small back window. I really appreciate the step by step of how to disassemble door & bump stop explanation. My front bracket had fallen off the widow & I found it down in the door, along with a lemon sized hornets nest lol. I glued front bracket back on with 3M WindoWeld 08609 from Advance Auto. Waiting for WindoWeld to dry and adjust bump stops per your instruction. 10/10 review for you sir. 2 hrs later...it worked !! Thanks!
Thanks for the great video! Between this and one other explaining how to get the door panels off, I've been able to mostly adjust my windows. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong though, or if my convertible top might have an issue. I just bought a '99 convertible, I'm 99% sure the top was replaced at some point. It may be stretched a bit too far, I'm not sure. I have the stabilizer brackets all the way forward and tightened, and the bump stops are all the way down. I tried this a few times thinking I had things in the wrong place, but I keep coming back to these positions. If I lift the top while the windows are up (yeah, I know - not the directions for raising/lowering the top), I can bring it back down and lock it in place, and the windows are sealed. I could live with this, except when we get out, we're catching on something still. Do you (anyone) have any suggestions on what else I can check or adjust before I take this in somewhere? Thanks in advance!
Convertible tops don't last forever, so it's very likely that it has been replaced at one point or another in the cars lifetime. The fabric doesn't really control the form it takes. It's the frame it is attached to. If I understand you correctly, when you open/close the door the window still catches on the top, right? That definitely sounds like an alignment issue. Check that the side rails are not bent, damaged or loose, also make sure the brackets are not bent. Other than that I'm not sure. I'd have to look inside the door. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage You're right, the window still catches on the top when I shut the doors. I didn't think about the rails being bent, I'll check that after I get her back; I blew a coolant hose (brittle plastic the hose went over actually), so she's at the shop right now. Thanks for the suggestions, I will look into it again after I have her back!
One window on my 99 vert clips the roof, and they both have small gaps between the front and back window. This video should be the perfect fix, thank you!
Excellent video! I have an issue with a 2000 GT Convertible driver's side window I just bought that I think this will fix. One question, the place that just did a top replacement for me said my driver's window hitting the top and leaving a gap was because the windows were not automatically lowering a short distance before closing the door. I haven't heard of this in New Edge models. Should the windows automatically raise and lower before closing? I wanted to be sure.
My brother-n-law's '07 Mustang does the auto-raise & lower when you open/close the door. He hasn't let me take the door apart to find out how it works though, because I'm honestly curious. However, I haven't seen a new edge or SN95 do it. As far as I know there is no mechanism to do it in that era of mustangs. I don't know when they started. I would assume around '05 with the S197 Mustangs.
Have a fast question my window is working but have to help it up to get it all the way seem likes it’s bumping something stopping from letting it go up all the way by it’s self what could that be from?
It could be many different things. Its hard to diagnose without looking at it. Best thing to do is remove the door panel and watch it go up/down to see what it is getting hung up on. Good luck.
Thanks very much for this helpful video. Window now works and fits well but, it doesn't stop when it hits the bump stop it continues to bump at the top and at the bottom. What did I miss?
I'm not sure what you mean. If the window is hitting the bump stops then the window should stop. The bump stops only prevent the window from going up too far. They don't prevent it from going down to far. That should be controlled by a rubber thing at the bottom of the door and the window regulator.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2001 Mustang convertible. When I try this, I don't seem to have any up-or-down play in the bump stops. They move very slightly from side to side. Am I doing something wrong? It's as though the hole for the bolt is a circle, and not a slot. Thanks!
Thanks for the video! Helpful! I recently had a shop replace the driver's regulator and motor as one assembly in my 94 Cobra. Of course they forgot to plug back in my mirrors and left some sort of piece of material sticking out of the top of the door panel. I took it back and they corrected those things. My other complaint was that the window traveled up too far and also heavily "banged" when travel reached bottom- not a nice little thump like the pass side. They didn't address that saying something about enlarging mounting holes. So now today (about a month later) when it reaches bottom travel the motor won't stop- it just continues to "bang" away until you quickly hit the window UP switch to stop everything. I swapped switches and that doesn't change anything. I tried loosening and re-securing different mounting bolts BEFORE I came across you video. I'll follow your specific instructions tomorrow. But- What tells the window motor to electrically stop??? I should mention that I see this "black box" with part number F2DB-14B118-AB rather dangling inside the lower/rear of the door panel. This evidently is part of the "one touch" feature. Maybe I just answered my own question ... I could swear that the window used to just travel down slightly with a light push on the switch. Doesn't do that anymore, it's always going all the way down on it's own with just a light touch of the switch. Sorry for being long ..
Something definitely seems off. If the problem did not occur before the shop worked on your car, then its pretty obvious that they caused it. If they don't want to own up to it I would find another shop for future work. Yes, you are correct, the little box attached to the switch wiring harness (it's blue in my case) controls the "one push down" feature. You can see the box in my video on replacing the window regulator: ruclips.net/video/M8Hfz_rCOY0/видео.html. The lower bump stop inside the door frame should prevent the window from going down too far. The blue box thing detects, I assume via a spike in amperage, that the motor is spinning but the window isn't moving and stops the motor. My guess is that either the shop damaged the wiring going to the blue box, damaged the box itself, or didn't plug it back in all the way. Hope that helps & good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and time, wish you were close to Pittsburgh, you'd have a steady customer! I'll try to be brief here- That full view of your door at 0.10 is missing an additional connector I have. It's a white/clear wired connector end that goes nowhere, it's not terminated. Unfortunately I didn't bother to take a closer look. It's located along and parallel to the bottom edge about the midpoint of the length of the door ...... I jumped the two large terminals (ignored 3 more smaller terminals) for the (one touch?) module connector with a fuse and eliminated the module. Found that temp fix on an Explorer forum. Had to build up the fuse terminals with just a little solder so it fit tight. So it all works less the one touch feature which I don't need. But would I be right that the module (the black or blue box) also controls each of the full up and full down travel of the window- the electrical stop that is regardless of one touch or not? What lower bump stop are you referring to? There is a metal bracket in the bottom door approx center that the regulator will bottom out on. It's not padded in any way. I took the module apart. All the solder joints look fine. There is one electrolytic capacitor (always suspicious after 25+ years), but I don't see the value printed on it. Measures 60uf in circuit. There is also a black cylindrical part on the board which I didn't identify yet. Maybe a relay. I'll desolder it off the board later. All the resistors and diodes check fine. A few film capacitors too but unlikely culprits. I hesitate to buy another old wrecking yard electrical part, maybe I can fix this one. Thanks for "listening".
I have a 2004 Mustang GT Convertible with a new top. I raised the window all the way to the top and tightened the top screws per your video. When I raise the window up, the window goes outside of the convertible top. In other words, when I close the door, the window is outside of the convertible top and not even under it. It seems like it is a top alignment to me but not sure how that would be done.
You don't just raise the window all the way up and leave it there. you have to adjust it afterwards by opening/closing the door, and raising & lowering the window as needed like I show in the video.
@@petrocksgarage I adjusted it up and down as well. But, by adjusting it down so it will clear the convertible top, the window is not sealed to the door on the top or on the side. I hope I am explaining it correctly.
@@alfredogutierrez5959, I think I understand what you are saying. It sounds like the weather stripping is worn out. Maybe try getting some 1/4" diameter rope and putting it behind the weather stripping so the stripping sticks out a little more. That might help in the short term. If it does then you definitely need to replace the weather stripping. Good luck.
Idk if I’ll get an answer on this but. What is causing my window to hang? It rolls up a hair to far and won’t make it past a quarter of the way down before it gets stuck
I can only guess from here. The only way to truly know the answers to your questions are to take the door panel off and have a look inside. The roll up problem may be the upper bump stops being out of adjustment. Maybe the rubber pad fell off or deteriorated? As for getting stuck, that could be any number of problems. Bent window regulator arm, debris in the window tracks, sticking ball joint of slider where the window attaches to the regulator. The list goes on. Good luck...
I've adjusted the bump stops as far down as they'll go and have no play in my door hinges. The window still ends up too high by maybe 1/4" or more. What else can I do? Thought about adding something to the stop to make the window stop even shorter.
Could the metal frame for the top be bent? Or the weather stripping pulled down? Adding additional padding to the bump stop is perfectly valid solution. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Figured it out! It's actually the bracket that holds the stop that the window actually slides into. The glue has given out so the bracket comes off the glass on one side when the stops press against each other. People should probably know about that as well. Went and purchased some flowable silicone to see if I can get that bracket glued back onto the window.
Hey brother thanks again for replying. The window is all over the place now. Literally like a small ship going up and down on the ocean. If I try to lower it it will lower some and then if I try to put it up the back will stay down while the front rolls up. I literally have to pull it up by hand to the correct height and close the door to be able to drive it. When I try to raise and lower it is puts pressure on the door panel and has made such a sound that I braced myself waiting for the window to just shatter as I tried to raise and lower it. Any input would help, if your experience is just limited to adjustments its all good, I will be looking at other videos trying to see what I can do. I can't get over him telling me I need to replace the glass, it just seems to me from your explanation that I need to find some of the glue that is used, glue the parts back on, and align the window.
Charles Murphy, it sounds like the window is off the tracks inside the door. Anyone on the internet is just going to be guessing. The only way to know whats truly going on is to take the door panel off and have a look inside. If the window is broken/damaged, replacing is is not that difficult or expensive. I replaced my wife’s with one from a junk yard a few years ago when the mounting bracket came unglued from the window. Cost me $30. I have a video on how to replace the window regulator that might help you. ruclips.net/video/M8Hfz_rCOY0G/видео.htmlood luck...
Hello thanks for the vid. The rear of my driver's side window of my '98 is going up to high. I personally haven't tried your vid but knew there were vids like this out there about the window howeverwhile my 'stang was at Ford with my Ford Mechanic friend doing a bumpsteer kit, alignment, and new rims and tires I asked him to inspect the window. He stated that the window came unglued from the track and that's why it was going up too high in the back. He reglued it with some high strength (according to him) silicone overnight. This kind of contradicts what you were saying and I was of the opinion from something I heard in a forum awhile back that a retaining clip might have broken off allowing the window to go up too much. Anyway, so my buddy siliconed the window and that silicone didn't hold, allowing the rear part of the window to go up too much again. He stated that I need an entirely new driver's side window and I didnt beleive that so I said dont worry about it. I planned on just going back to lowering the window enough to where it wasn't too high in the rear when I closed the door. I apologize for the long winded explanation but I wanted you to know exactly where I was at. So my question is, 1) Does your repair assume a window that is securely affixed to the track/regulator? If so, is the window glued on? If not, is there a clip holding the window to the track that might have broken off that he wasn't aware of. 2) or is the rear part of my driver's side window going up too high simply for just the reason you noted in your vid, being that it is out of adjustment? Or finally 3) am I totally off base and maybe your repair and the problem I am having are two totally different issues? Thanks in advance for your time!
C Murph, - Does your repair assume a window that is securely affixed to the track/regulator? Yes - If so, is the window glued on? The window is bolted to the window regulator via two metal brackets that are glued to the window. It is likely that glue your friend replaced. If that glue has failed then either regaling it or replacing the window is the correct fix. - is there a clip holding the window to the track that might have broken off that he wasn't aware of. There are two ‘clips’ on the front & back of the window (attached to the previously mentioned window brackets) that can come off. But if they did then the window would be very loose. There is another in the window regulator itself that if it failed the window would not go up/down straight. There are also the four clips/braces that mount to the door (which is used to align/adjust the window in this video) that also play a roll in this. If one of them came off then yes, the window would not align properly and would likely go up too high. - is the rear part of my driver's side window going up too high simply for just the reason you noted in your vid, being that it is out of adjustment there is a lot going on with your window apparently. Its hard to say. But if the window brackets & the window regulator are in working order, then yes a window alignment procedure shown in this video should help. However, if you have broken components in the window & window regulator assembly then all bets are off. Those broken components need to be fixed before a proper alignment can be performed. - I totally off base and maybe your repair and the problem I am having are two totally different issues? Its hard to say. I would have to see the insides of the door to say for sure. You could remove the door panel and have a look. Anything loose would be pretty obvious just by wiggling the window a little. Good luck...
When the weather iced up, I tried to lower my passenger window. I heard a crunching sound, so i stopped. Now my window does not fully go up into its full up position in the front part, unless I grab the top front part and pull it up about an inch or so.. Nor will the window go all the way down. Any idea of what piece I broke?? Thanks for the help.
Its really hard to say what is wrong from my keyboard. The window regulator scissor arms may be bent or the window tracks may be damaged or have some obstruction in them. Its hard to say without pulling the door panel and having a look inside. Good luck.
So, I have a 96 convertible. My passenger side window appears to be misaligned. I just don't know whether it's in the way that this will repair. The rear of the window is pushed about 1/4 inch away from the car but the front is perfect. It lets water in. Would these adjustments fix this? Is it just an up and down problem?
Curtis Hickerson, if the window is hitting the weather stripping (causing the window to be pushed out) then yes adjusting the window as shown in this video should help. You should also check if there is any up/down play in the door hinges themselves since that can also cause your problem. With the car on level ground, open the door and try to lift the door up/down at various points in the door's travel. There should be no up/down play. If there is, then the hinge pins & bushings are probably worn and should be replaced. I have a video covering how to do that too (ruclips.net/video/hF2U8MWrqaM/видео.html). Good luck...
my 99 mustang was broken into. the way they entered my car was flexing the driver side glass back and so one... anyway now when i try to close my door the back/top of the glass hits the top of the frame, not allowing me to close the door properly unless i actually push in the glass while closing the door. will this help my situation?
Very helpful. Thank You! Now I get to wait for the glue to dry on the front bracket guide. Once solid, i can then adjust the stabilizer and stop brackets. It's never one simple thing! B|
Hi, like every one is saying you have some of the best/accurate ,videos around . Iam having a problem w my sons 02 mustang both windows have come unglued from the u brackets that attach to the regulator . is there any good glue or a way of repairing them w/o replacing the whole glass ?
+mark lambert, I know exactly what you mean. The same thing happened to the drivers side window on my wife’s Mustang a few years ago. Sadly I was under a time crunch and I ended up getting a new (to me) window from a local junk yard. Maybe call around to your local auto-glass repair shops and see if they know what it is and if they could repair it? Good luck and let me know what you find out. I’m interested in knowing too. Thanks...
It s funny you should ask ,I never tackled it I used regular clear silicone but it only lasted a month. my son just told me 2 days ago that his pass side window fell off again !! LOL but the glue in the link above I posted was what the body shop said would work . I personally think the definite fix is to hit a junk yard and pull out the window with the U clips attached .
I have a 1995 convertible Left door( drivers side) window seems to have lost the front stop on my window I don't see anything there for the stop to hit so the front of the window goes to hight. What do you sugguess to Do?
If you haven't already, take the door panel off and have a look inside. Chances are high that the stop fell to the bottom of the door. There are no holes inside the door big enough for a bracket to fall through. If you still can't find it, I would go to a junk yard and get the bracket from a junker. You could also probably check eBay or a dealership too, but they will likely be more expensive. Good luck.
+michaelsjolin, it all depends on what is causing the rattle. If the window bump stops or alignment brackets are loose or not adjusted properly then yes it would help. But the only real way to know is to take the door panel off and have a look inside to see what is rattling. Good luck...
It is hard to say. It depends on the damage that was done to the door to shift the window. The slide rails determine where the window tracks. So one likely got bent or the rails mount point shifted. Good luck.
I used this video to successfully adjust the driver's side window of my 04 Mustang about 1.5yrs ago, but at the end of 2020 when I went to store her for the winter, I noticed it de-adjusted itself. Any idea what this means? I would've hand tightened the bump stop bolts nice and snug, should I have torqued them to a particular spec?
The bolts definitely could have worked themselves loose, one of the arms on the window regulator could have gotten bent, the weather stripping could have distorted, if its a convertible the convertible frame could have been distorted (by heavy snow fall, or new top being put on). I'd take the door panel off and check the bolts. If they are still tight then one of the other problems I suggested could be the cause. If they are loose, and you torqued them to spec the last time, you could add some blue loctite when you torque it down this time to ensure it doesn't come loose again. btw, the torque spec, as shown in the video @4:40, is between 89-123 in/lbs. I like to split the difference, so 106 in/lbs. Hope that helps.
@@petrocksgarage The car is a convertible but only has 14,000 KMs on it, so it's the original top and it's never been winter driven. Hopefully by redoing this procedure and torqueing them this time, I should be good forever. Thanks a lot for the response! :)
hello. I have played your video a dozen times, I have adjusted the 4 bolts and positioned the window accordingly and I cannot get my 98 Mustang coupe v6 window to stop where it should. It goes about .5" too high and I have to lower the window a .5" to shut the door. Annoying. Do you have any suggestions as to what could be causing this? I got the car used. The control arm bolts were loose or off when I removed the door panel. I put them back on tight and just cannot get it adjusted. Frustrating. Thanks for any advice. Good videos.
+Jen L (Ruby1025), the two pump stops in the middle are supposed to prevent the window from going up too high. They need to be adjusted like I demonstrate in the video with the door closed and the window rolled up all the way. Then fine tune them afterwards. If your door has any up/down play in it when it at any point in its open/close swing then you will never be able to properly adjust the window. You need to fix the movement in the door first, which (unless the hinges are damaged or loose) should be just replacing the hinge pins & bushings. I have a video on that that might help. Good luck... ruclips.net/video/hF2U8MWrqaM/видео.html
+Pet Rock's Garage Thank you for the help, honestly the only thing I think I didn't do was close the door and put window up all the way. I left it open, and put the window up to where I wanted it to stop. Then locked down the pump stops. I didn't see how closing the door would affect it. Does it? Also, no play in window at all. Solid. Thanks for the reply.
+Jen L (Ruby1025), yes, closing the door to set the bump stops is important. Otherwise you are just guessing how high the window has to go. Good luck...
My Drivers side window is about 1/2" to high in the front when rolling it up when door is closed and adjusting like in your vid. How do I drrop the front of the window down? If I roll it up when door is open to the right height then shut the door the windows seals great. Any advise would help at this point.
Mike Hutson, the front of the window is adjusted by the brackets on the front of the door like I show in the video. Its the same procedure to adjust the back as it is to adjust the front. Good luck...
First make sure it didn't fall into the bottom of the inner door. After that I don't think there is an aftermarket part for that. So either contact your local dealer or hit up a local junk yard. Good luck.
@@billbalder5722, sorry. I'm out of ideas. I typically don't have trouble finding junked SN95 Mustangs at local pick-n-pulls or junk yards. They are pretty common.
@@billbalder5722 maybe check a mustang forum and see if someone will sell you one, or find one at a junk yard near them? I've heard of junk yards that will pull the part for you and ship it to you, but I have never looked for one or used one. Good luck.
I got a 2007 mustang convertible the passenger window goes back down when I raise it. Checked the door the top of the door is about an 8th of an inch to far in to the door frame what are my options
Hello, I just had the driver window replaced in 2000 mustang and when the window is rolled half way down it sounds like there is a "glass plate" sort of rattling sound when I go over bumps or the car is idling. Any suggestions what my be causing this?Also the window tint is also getting long scratches in it.
+K house, it sounds like you either have something loose inside the door (like the felt-pad brackets I show in the video or some other thing). The scratches are likely caused by the same thing making the rattle. I'd suggest taking the door panel off and see what is wiggling around inside there. Shouldn't be too hard to find. Good luck...
+K house, actually if you had a shop replace the window not that long ago I would take it back to them and have them fix it. They probably didn't put it back together properly. So they should do it for free since it was their mistake that likely caused the problem. Good luck...
Dont understand about lowering the bump stops. In the video, it say to roll the window down, loosen the bump stops, close door, push bump stop down, roll window up and tighten. Then if its too high, loosen it and lower it more. How can you do this when it's already lowered? The rear protion of the window is too high, but bump stop is as low as it goes. Thanks!
You loosen the upper bump stop and then roll up the window to get pretty close to the peak up position. The window will move the bump stops where they need to be as you roll it up. The window could stop when it hits the weather stripping. It can be too high if your weather stripping is old/worn out/damaged/malformed, so some adjustment may be needed after the initial step. If the bump stop is as low as it goes and the window is still too high then I would double check the weather stripping to see if it is sagging, damaged or too low. Make sure the virtual window tracks are not bent/damaged/loose. Also make sure that the 1/8" rubber pad is still on the bump stop, if not that could be your problem. Also make sure that the bump stop is not bent. It should be in roughly the shape of an L. If all that checks out, maybe glue on some additional rubber padding to the pump stop or lip on the window that hits the bump stop to 'extend' the bump stop a little. But that should be a last resort IMO. Good luck.
It sounds like something is binding. I'd take the weather stripping off along the top of the door, and the door panel and cycle the window up/down a few times to see where it starts to slow down. It might become obvious from a visual inspection. My guess is that one of the rales may be bent/restricted or the window is not lining up with or sliding inside the front/vertical weather seal properly. Good luck.
I have a 96 Mustang and the driver side windows motor went out, but i don't have the cash right now to fix it. Right now the window is stuck down, is there any way i can pull it up and leave it.
+Dontay Womack, I'd take the door panel off and try to push the window up (don't pull) keeping an eye on the regulator to make sure you don't bend the arms. That might work. Good luck...
I have a 95 coupe and both windows seem too allow some windows and water (only car wash) in from the area around the Mach 460 door tweeters. Is this a known issue and what should I do? I feel like the problem is the rubber around the speaker as apposed to the weatherstrip around the door as it's been replaced and the issue was there before.
I'm not aware of this specific problem, but that doesn't mean it's not a known issue. I'm not familiar with where the tweeters are on your car. My wife's '98 does not have them. But any kind of water leak means that a seal is not working correctly. Either due to the window or door not sealing properly against the weather stripping, or damaged/misaligned weather stripping. Since it happens mostly in a car wash, you could probably track it down by spraying a hose all around the window and see if you can reproduce the leak and pinpoint where the leak is coming from. Remember water flows down hill so make sure to hit the top of the window too. Good luck.
Having this issue but my window whistles when it's fully up. The front seems to get pulled out by the wind when I'm driving at highway speeds. What would I need to do to get rid of this?
The wind noise is the window not sealing against the weather stripping. Either the adjustment is slightly off or the weather stripping is malformed or damaged in some way. It is hard to say which from my keyboard. If you can't find the spot with your ear, a smoke machine would help. Good luck.
Is there any chance that you could make a similar video regarding aligning the rear window of an SN-95 and New Edge? My rear window is the one that's misaligned. :)
PhoenixM, it is on my list of 'opportunity' videos to make when I'm out of things to fix. I'm just a guy in his garage, not a professional shop. So I work on things that need fixing on my friends & families cars (the list is ever growing). However, the rear window in my wife's car hasn't gone out of alignment (yet). When it does I will definitely make a video on it. Aligning the rear window is similar to the front, but a lot easier. The only difficult part is removing the plastic panels to get to the window components. Good luck...
The window rides up/down on rails, so you can't really move it forward or back. But you can rotate it slightly by raising the rear bump stop and lowering the front (or vise versa) to clean up a gap you may have. Good luck.
You might be able to get away with it, but you aren't saving yourself a lot of time or effort. There could be something else in the alignment that is causing your problem. I'd do it right the first time and do it like I did in the video. Good luck.
Pet Rock's Garage so the front part of the window looks good but the back part I have having a hard time getting to set. could my weatherstripping be bad?
It could be, but I would try doing the adjustment first. On the car in the video it had a similar problem to yours where the front would seat properly in the weather stripping, but the back would not. The alignment fixed it.
In the video you said to set the bump stop bolts all the way down and then tighten, then as your doing the adjustment you say to move the bolts down 1/8 in. how can you move them down any further?
I assume you mean around 2:05 in the video. With the window all the up like that the bump stop doesn't go all the way down in it's groove. Its coming into contact with the window. So when you adjust it later there is still room to move it down.
I have a 2001 stang that has a passenger window issue. The passenger window will always work if the drivers door is open, but as soon as the driver's door closes, the passenger window doesn't go up or down. Any suggestions?
The wire between the window lockout button in the drivers door control panel and the passenger door is damaged/broken. Chances are the broken wire is inside the little rubber accordion boot thing that goes between the body of the car and the door. Good luck.
Its really not a tough job, but if you don't feel comfortable/confident tracking down & repairing wiring issues, then yeah you should take it to a mechanic. Make sure to take it to one that is good at wiring issues. Good luck.
Hey there, i had a question maybe you might now the answer to it, i have a 91 mustang convertible and my passenger side window when being rolled down it "drops down" or jumps a couple of times but only when its going down,i checked my motor and of course the little bushings were shot, i installed some new ones and same problem, i did notice the motor had a little play in it and i know window motors that are in good shape usually have zero play in them, i checked the regulator, no broken teeth so i ordered a new motor and a new lower door guide bushing(verts only have one bushing, the upper is not meant to wear and its riveted to the bracket and its in excellent condition) which haven't arrived yet, this might not be the problem but at least its a start, what is causing this drop in the window? someone i know thinks that the motor might have a bad worm gear that i haven't spotted and thats why the problem happens twice, basically when it goes around the shaft twice while rolling down if this makes any sense, thank you for your time!!
dntlss, its hard to diagnose these kinds of issues from my keyboard. I’d advise pulling the door panel and rolling the window up & down a couple times while watching the components inside the door. Maybe something is binding up the window, something is stuck in the slide rails the window slides up/down on, or something else all together. If the problem was the motor or the gears then it would happen going up & down, not just one direction. Good luck...
Pet Rock's Garage Thank you for the reply,i know what you mean about diagnosing from the keyboard, ive had the door panel off and like i said i ordered a new motor and a new rod guide bushing just because i want to replace them,the problem only happens going down, i haven't seen anything amiss in there but i do know that if i bump it lightly with the switch around the time when it does one of the drops (it does 2 drops on the way down) i can actually see the regulator arm sliding down a bit on the track which is basically the drop in slow motion,isn't the regulator arm attached to the motor gears? what i mean is once you install a window motor don't the gears in the motor hold the regulator teeth securely or at least its supposed to? also whats the purpose of the spring in the regulator? if its held by the window motor why does it need a spring? thank you again and i appreciate your time and sorry for the bother.
dntlss, it sounds like the window is sticking in the track. Make sure the regulator arms & window tracks aren’t bent, twisted or damaged. A little general purpose grease or white lithium grease (my preferred) on the tracks would’t hurt either. The regulator arm is meshed with the gears on the motor. There are additional (plastic) gears inside the motor that sometimes get messed up, but since you replaced the motor with a new one and the problem didn’t go away then its not the gears. I would assume the spring has two purposes. It helps the motor push the window up so the motor doesn’t work so hard and it also forces the window up in the event of the plastic gears inside the motor failing so the window doesn't crash down into the bottom of the door and possibly break. That is my theory at least. Good luck...
Pet Rock's Garage Hey thank you much for all the help,just wanted to say that on my previous messages i had said i had a new window motor on order but i HADN'T installed it yet,i received it today and i installed it and i think that was my problem, im still waiting for my guide rod bushing so i don't want to roll it up and down too much but i did roll it down one time and it didn't jump so i think the old motor was just worn out after 24 years, i am however gonna put some grease on the tracks like you said for preventative maintenance ,again thank you so much for your help !!!!
dntlss, oh, I thought you had already replaced the motor and the problem remained. Ok. That makes more sense then. The plastic gears inside the old motor were probably shot. Take unscrew the plate around the metal gear to see the plastic ones inside to confirm. Good luck...
Your videos are really helpful, but i have a question. Do I need a torque Wrench to loosen and tighten the brackets or is it possible for me to just get the job done with my hands? My reason for asking is because I don't have a torque wrench at the moment.
I'm not sure which glue you are referring to. The glue for the braces on the window glass itself? or the glue for the rubber pads on the bump stops? Or some other glue?
I’ve tried mechanics I’ve tried replacing the window my self but nothing seems to do the job the window gets stuck half way and I have to help it by pulling the window back and pressing the window at the same time I’ve tried a whole new regulator with a new window and seems to work alittle bit more but it’s still struggling need professional help
That sounds like the window is binding in the rails that the window slides up/down on. Or the regulator arm is bent in some way causing a bind. It's hard to say from my keyboard. Also wouldn't hurt to lube up the rails. Good luck.
I'm not sure. I haven't had the door apart on that year mustang. I would assume the operation would be similar though. Only way to know is to take the door panel off and have a look inside.
I haven't worked on that year mustang, but I would presume it is similar. Best way to find out would be to take off the door panel and have a look inside. If it has similar brackets/bump-stops then it should be similar. Good luck.
I have an 1995 5.0 Mustang pretty much same as that one. In this case the rear part of the window wont stay in the rail. When the window goes down too far it pops out of the rail I tries several adhesives to keep it in the rail but nothing works. Im thinking its going down too far. Is there a way to adjust the stop so it doesnt go down too far?
The stops only give about an inch or two adjustment in the up position. They don't prevent the window going down. That is done by the window regulator. Its hard to tell what you mean by it popping out of the rail though. If the little rolling disk thing stays in the rear rail and the nub on the window bracket pops off the rolling disk then the problem is either the rail is bent or the window regulator is bent. I had that problem on my wife's mustang a while ago. The window regulator arm was bent. I tried bending it back in place but could never get it right. So I ended up replacing the entire window regulator assembly and haven't had a problem since. Good luck.
Thanks for the reply I did the same thing this one is a Dorman but still the same problem. I also tried squeezing the top rail and glueing it. The side with the wheel at the door opening still pops out when the window hits the end of down travel. Any idea what kind of glue is used?
I'm not sure what type of glue is used. Some kind of epoxy most likely. Also make sure that the brackets that are glued to the window glass are secure. If those brackets are loose it will cause problems. There should also be a big rubber bumper at the bottom of the door for the window to hit when it goes all the way down. Maybe it is missing, worn out, or out of position? It is hard for me to diagnose without actually seeing the door. Good luck.
Pet Rock's Garage could you make a video explaining how to glue window and send the link to the glue because only one side of my window hangs when put all the way down
my window goes up too far and these adjustments do diddly squat. the window is not unglued it still looks brand new. the window just wont lower for some reason.
The window pump stops are supposed to prevent the window from going up to far. Make sure the window is hitting the bump stops in the up position. If not, there's your problem. Good luck.
The problem I had with my window (2000) coupe, was that the bracket on the window in the rear that contacts the stop and is riveted to the regulator arm became loose (just bonded by RTV) and the arm was pushing the front of it up but the stop hitting the rear of the bracket so it was jacking up the window glass too high. I had to pull the bracket off, drill out the rivet and clean all the RTV off the glass and bracket to put a bead of RTV in the Channel of the bracket. Let it cure 24hrs. and it works fine after stop adjustment.
Glad to hear you got it figured out and fixed. That goo isn't RTV (the gasket maker) though. It's a glass adhesive. RTV might hold up, but keep an eye on it. If it does fail clean off the RTV really well and pick up some window glass adhesive/epoxy from your local auto parts store and re-apply. Prepping the surface is key, so follow the instructions. Good luck.
Thats not a big deal actually and you don't need a new door. :-) You have a couple options: - Find/buy a used window from your local junk yard/pick-n-pull - Buy some window glue and glue the bracket back onto the window. Search for 'Window Weld' and you'll find a bunch of options that some autocrats stores carry. The key is in the preparation. The better you prepare the surfaces the better the glue will hold. Don't rush or skimp on the prep work. Good luck.
Mine did that, I it fixed with some JB clear weld glue epoxy, not the regular JB weld. There is also a guy on ebay who sells a new window with a better attachment system. You drill out the rivets get your old window out and replace it using 1/4-20 1/2" bolts to attach to the window regulator. So far my glue job works. Prep is key, get all the old glue off the window and out of the bracket, use goo gone, razor blade etc. Then alcohol clean and glue it together. I let it set 2 days.
I tightened the right side passengers windows all the way down and it still rises up too high on the back of the window. Not really sure why it's still doing this after pushing them down as far as they would go. Do you have any videos on how to fix my window being off track? My drivers side window doesn't roll up or down and it sounds as if it's off track. Anyway to fix this? Didn't wanna try to fix it before knowing what I would be getting in to.
sluder4, does the bump stop still have the rubber nub on it? If not that may be where the extra vertical movement is from. The other issue could be that the metal bracket on your window is bent down or loose causing the window to go up higher then intended. As for the window being off track I don't have any videos on that. But the window regulator is fairly simple mechanically. If you take the door panel off you might be able to see why it is popping out of the track. Maybe the window regulator scissor arms are bent? Or a variety of other reasons. Only way to know is to take the door panel off and have a look inside. Good luck...
After all this my window still angles out at the back by about 3/16 at the top and it will still try to go too high. Screw it it's going to the shop. This car is so twisted nothing lines up anyway I cant even get my tires aligned because the frame is so far out
My boss has a 99' Mustang convertible and his passenger window goes up too high on the left side (side view mirror side) by more than an inch. Fiddled around with the bump stop adjustments and noticed the side in which I'm having a problem has no rubber attached to the bottom of the stop. I also found this part in the bottom of the door panel ( imgur.com/a/ZHoRA ) , but it doesn't seem like it came off of the window anywhere. Work has been done before, I can see drilled rivets in the bottom of the door. Could it have been from a previous window?
+Brian DeBartolo, the rubber part may have fallen inside your door frame. Check the bottom and see if it's there. If it is you can super-glue it back on. If its not you can cut a piece of rubber from some scrap you may have laying around the house and super-glue it back on. While not a required piece it does effect the alignment of the window and helps dampen the sudden stop that occurs when you roll the window all the way up. As for the bracket in your picture, it is supposed to be glued/attached to the front side of the window (mirror side) and the plastic tab on the end is supposed to ride up/down a metal channel inside the door frame. Check if your window has a similar bracket on it. If so, then the one in your picture may be from a previous window. If your window doesn't have that bracket then you should replace the window since the bracket needs to be mounted in a semi-precise location. If its out of position the window won't track correctly as it goes up and down. Good luck...
Thanks for the video, I still have problems with my window, I did everything you have showed but the glass keeps going all the way up and hits the rubber. I played with the screws as you are showing but nothing, it keeps going 1/2" high. I cannot make it stop adjusting those bolts. Do I need to buy a window regulator??
Check your door hinge pins. If they are worn out then you will never be able to properly adjust the window. Open the door slightly and pull up on the bottom of the door. If you see any movement in the hinge pins then they are worn out and should be replaced. I have a video covering how to do that (ruclips.net/video/hF2U8MWrqaM/видео.html). Good luck.
@@brianguerrero3913, either the top is the wrong one, the top frame is bent, or the car frame is bent. I'd be more skeptical of the top, but stranger things have happened. The vert mustang frames are stiffened underneath to account for the missing roof.
thanx for your speedy response . the only thing I found was 3m windshield adhesive . here is the link:www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 I was afraid to use it ,but I might give it a try . IF we don't sell the car .
+mark lambert, cool. Thanks for the link. Hopefully you can find a smaller tube of that stuff since you probably don't need a lot. It looks like it will do the job nicely. I also found this video on RUclips from a guy doing a similar job on his car. It might be another alternative solution: ruclips.net/video/SL3VPqAMUPo/видео.html
Either the window regulator is bent or something is blocking it from going all the way down. Only way to find out is to remove the door panel and have a look inside to see what's wrong. Good luck.
I found out the metal bracket that's glued onto the bottom of the glass and acts as the stop came loose on the back side so when it hit the stop it just pivots down. Stupid design by ford, the regulator is attached to the front of that bracket and the stop hits the rear part so of course it's going to put a lot of pressure on it and make the glass slip out of the bracket over time. I just scraped the glass with a razor scraper and wiped it down with Acetone then cleaned out the groove in the bracket with a scraper and thin flat head screwdriver then shot some RTV in the groove and slid it in place where I had marked the glass with a carbide scribe tool to get the placement right. I'm going to let that set for a day before I put it all back together. Oh also, to get the bracket out of the track you have to take the three retaining nuts off of the track and slide it down, the bracket has a roller that has to come out of the top of the rear track and you drill the rivet that holds the regulator to that bracket in the front. You can use an automatic center punch or small punch and tap hammer to knock the center pin out of the rivet and then drill it. They use a special 1/4" rivet that splits into thirds as you pull it down with the giant special rivet gun you can get at HFT. Rivets can be bought at NAPA. It's the short one for window regulators.
Thats awesome that you figured out the problem and was able to fix it. Depending on the RTV you used (i.e. adhesive RTV, not oil gasket maker), it should do the job. There are Glass Weld/Adhesive/Epoxy/Glue stuff out there available at most autoparts stores that are specific for glass. They aren't cheap though. Getting stuff to stick to smooth surfaces, like glass, is tricky. Like with most glue jobs, prepping the surfaces is key. I found this video that might help you out too: ruclips.net/video/Fw4AQbIX4Uw/видео.html Re rivets, you can also use nuts & bolts.Thats what I did on my wife's car a while ago and haven't had an issue. I show it in my video on replacing the window regulator on a Mustang. I think I used 1/2" long bolts at 1/4"x20 thread pitch: ruclips.net/video/M8Hfz_rCOY0/видео.html Hope that helps & good luck!!!
I really dislike taking door panels apart. Too many plastic parts that can easily brake. Usually the pins/clips/flanges that hold the panel to the door frame. 😒
Yeah, plastic on older vehicles can be finicky, especially when working in a cold environment. When the garage/outside is warm the plastic is a little more forgiving. I've had some success re-gluing clips that have broken with super glue and/or JB-Weld (for plastic), reinforced with some paperclips embedded in the glue/goo.
Great tutorial short and on the point
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Finally a video that shows how to do this. The drivers side window in my daughters 95 GT hits the A frame so I hope this adjustment will work. Great video!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Good luck with your repair.
Well after looking around found out that the bump stop had fallen from the bottom of the window so the window had no way to stop going up. Ended up using high strength epoxy to glue it back on. Then using your method I was able to align the window. Window seats like new now, thanks again!
Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out.
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Really informative video, I wish I saw this first before wasting money. But one thing I wanna add to your video is that for some reason, on my 2002 Mustang gt coupe, in the back side of the window I only had the top bolt and not the one under it, my problem was that the window motor was bending the metal plate that stopped the window. I just got a flat head and a rock and bent that bad boy back to place.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Re thats one strong window motor. Glad you got it sorted out.
You are awesome! Thanks for posting this. My 2000 Mustang convertible window is a little crooked now at rear and hits. I can pull up on window some too. I appreciate you showing all your tips to give me confidence to rip open my door & see if just a loose bolt or more serious problem. Thx.
I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Pet Rock's Garage My window is low at the front and makes the rear hit my roof. Passenger side. Can it be bad bushings or just bad alignment?
Thanks man I’ll try this tomorrow when it stops raining.
@@angelgjr1999, most likely bad alignment. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage I got my door taken apart and window fixed. I found the factory glue let go, which held the rear part of the window in the U shaped channel. This caused it be crooked going up and down, plus hit on the convertible top when trying to close door. Thanks again.
@@johnm.8742, glad to hear you got it fixed and my video helped you out.
Thank you so much for making this video. I'm going to see if I can get my passenger window lined back up in the morning.
No problem. Glad to be of service. Good luck!
I just want to say thank you so much for this video all the other ones I looked up they talk about everything but what they say they're going to do on to the very very end and they suck your video rocks thank you so very much you saved my interior and my window and my tint thank you 👍
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.
ur mustang videos are so helpfully man seriously 👍
+kamaster1011, I’m glad you like them. I aim to please.
Pure gold brother. Thanks for the video.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
whith a video like this you save a lot of money.congratulation
+Armando H Travieso, thats my goal. Thanks a lot.
Good Job on the video, I watched it a couple of times. If someone is just starting it may be helpful to know how to remove the panel. Also had a Speaker to remove and found another video showing where the screw is. Putting the panel back on the door may take two extra hands as it needs to catch the lock post and work around the door opener. I did not get the torque correct and twisted the 11 mm bolt off. Junk yard not far away. Making the adjustment was not as tough as I was anticipating. Again great job and thanks!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out. Yeah, I missed filming how to remove the panel. Sorry about that. It can be a game of 3D Tetris getting everything to line up.
@@petrocksgarageil
o lol i no in@@petrocksgarage
Done very well. I had replaced my window motors & regulator but I had some whistling from the passenger side window after adjusting how I thought appropriate. After watching your video, all's copasetic.
Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Thank you your video helped me tremendously I was so frustrated until I saw your video thanks a lot 99 mustang gt
+John Hagin, no problem. I’m glad it helped.
Thanks for the video! I was just looking at a cobra convertible I'm thinking of buying, and both the driver and passenger windows need an alignment. I have no idea how they got so far out of alightment, but they did say they had just done some work on the top, so I assume it's related to that.
No problem. Glad to be of service.
Depending on what they did to the top it could easily require a re-alignment. If the top still functions properly and the top frame doesn't look bent or damaged, and the weather stripping looks in good shape, I wouldn't worry too much about it. But i would ask to drop the price a little to account for this issue (unless they want to adjust it themselves before you buy). Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Yeah, I'm still trying to decide if this is the car I want, but I'm for sure gonna offer them less than their asking after seeing it in person. There was no damage or wrecks reported, but there was definitely some less than stellar repainting done on the front end and around the front window frame. I hope it's just from rock chips, but you never know with cars this old.
@freakfiveoh , good luck with the negotiations. I would definitely take it to a mechanic to check it out top to bottom. It's a Cobra so I highly doubt it has been driven 'gingerly'. Good luck.
Éste video es oro, no encontraba nada relacionado a éste problema. Gracias!!
De nada. Me alegro que mi video te haya ayudado.
Thanks! The front of driver’s window was too high by A pillar and back part of window caught the part of molding by small back window. I really appreciate the step by step of how to disassemble door & bump stop explanation. My front bracket had fallen off the widow & I found it down in the door, along with a lemon sized hornets nest lol. I glued front bracket back on with 3M WindoWeld 08609 from Advance Auto. Waiting for WindoWeld to dry and adjust bump stops per your instruction. 10/10 review for you sir.
2 hrs later...it worked !! Thanks!
Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & for the WindoWeld tip. I appreciate it.
Thanks. I thought I might have to replace the window regulator on my ‘99 Mustang. I hope this adjustment will solve my problem.
Good luck!
Thanks for the great video! Between this and one other explaining how to get the door panels off, I've been able to mostly adjust my windows. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong though, or if my convertible top might have an issue. I just bought a '99 convertible, I'm 99% sure the top was replaced at some point. It may be stretched a bit too far, I'm not sure.
I have the stabilizer brackets all the way forward and tightened, and the bump stops are all the way down. I tried this a few times thinking I had things in the wrong place, but I keep coming back to these positions. If I lift the top while the windows are up (yeah, I know - not the directions for raising/lowering the top), I can bring it back down and lock it in place, and the windows are sealed. I could live with this, except when we get out, we're catching on something still.
Do you (anyone) have any suggestions on what else I can check or adjust before I take this in somewhere?
Thanks in advance!
Convertible tops don't last forever, so it's very likely that it has been replaced at one point or another in the cars lifetime. The fabric doesn't really control the form it takes. It's the frame it is attached to. If I understand you correctly, when you open/close the door the window still catches on the top, right? That definitely sounds like an alignment issue. Check that the side rails are not bent, damaged or loose, also make sure the brackets are not bent. Other than that I'm not sure. I'd have to look inside the door. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage You're right, the window still catches on the top when I shut the doors. I didn't think about the rails being bent, I'll check that after I get her back; I blew a coolant hose (brittle plastic the hose went over actually), so she's at the shop right now.
Thanks for the suggestions, I will look into it again after I have her back!
Good luck. Hope you get it sorted out.,
One window on my 99 vert clips the roof, and they both have small gaps between the front and back window. This video should be the perfect fix, thank you!
Glad to be of service. Good luck!
Excellent video! I have an issue with a 2000 GT Convertible driver's side window I just bought that I think this will fix. One question, the place that just did a top replacement for me said my driver's window hitting the top and leaving a gap was because the windows were not automatically lowering a short distance before closing the door. I haven't heard of this in New Edge models. Should the windows automatically raise and lower before closing? I wanted to be sure.
My brother-n-law's '07 Mustang does the auto-raise & lower when you open/close the door. He hasn't let me take the door apart to find out how it works though, because I'm honestly curious. However, I haven't seen a new edge or SN95 do it. As far as I know there is no mechanism to do it in that era of mustangs. I don't know when they started. I would assume around '05 with the S197 Mustangs.
@@petrocksgarage Thank you so for replying, you have a new fan for the channel.
You make absolutely excellent videos. Thank you for this treasure trove of knowledge.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my videos help you out.
Thank you for the window adjustment video my mustang is perfect again
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my videos helped you out.
Took me all of 5 minutes! Thanks! Great video!
Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out.
Have a fast question my window is working but have to help it up to get it all the way seem likes it’s bumping something stopping from letting it go up all the way by it’s self what could that be from?
It could be many different things. Its hard to diagnose without looking at it. Best thing to do is remove the door panel and watch it go up/down to see what it is getting hung up on. Good luck.
Great video
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
How do you adjust the door window tilt on 07 convertible to where it lines up with rear window better?
Sorry, I don't have access to an '07, but I suspect it is very similar to how it's done in this video. Good luck.
Thanks very much for this helpful video. Window now works and fits well but, it doesn't stop when it hits the bump stop it continues to bump at the top and at the bottom. What did I miss?
I'm not sure what you mean. If the window is hitting the bump stops then the window should stop. The bump stops only prevent the window from going up too far. They don't prevent it from going down to far. That should be controlled by a rubber thing at the bottom of the door and the window regulator.
I can here the wind ome thru the back edge of window. Just had it replaced but how do you get it tighter to the seal
If the seal isn't deformed or damaged, then adjusting the window would help. Good luck.
Does the convertible windows do they have a motor that could go bad or the window come off track
Yes & yes.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2001 Mustang convertible. When I try this, I don't seem to have any up-or-down play in the bump stops. They move very slightly from side to side. Am I doing something wrong? It's as though the hole for the bolt is a circle, and not a slot. Thanks!
It sounds like the bump stop is in the wrong hole. The hole for the bump stop should be a slot. Good luck.
Thanks for the video! Helpful! I recently had a shop replace the driver's regulator and motor as one assembly in my 94 Cobra. Of course they forgot to plug back in my mirrors and left some sort of piece of material sticking out of the top of the door panel. I took it back and they corrected those things. My other complaint was that the window traveled up too far and also heavily "banged" when travel reached bottom- not a nice little thump like the pass side. They didn't address that saying something about enlarging mounting holes.
So now today (about a month later) when it reaches bottom travel the motor won't stop- it just continues to "bang" away until you quickly hit the window UP switch to stop everything. I swapped switches and that doesn't change anything. I tried loosening and re-securing different mounting bolts BEFORE I came across you video. I'll follow your specific instructions tomorrow. But-
What tells the window motor to electrically stop??? I should mention that I see this "black box" with part number F2DB-14B118-AB rather dangling inside the lower/rear of the door panel. This evidently is part of the "one touch" feature. Maybe I just answered my own question ... I could swear that the window used to just travel down slightly with a light push on the switch. Doesn't do that anymore, it's always going all the way down on it's own with just a light touch of the switch. Sorry for being long ..
Something definitely seems off. If the problem did not occur before the shop worked on your car, then its pretty obvious that they caused it. If they don't want to own up to it I would find another shop for future work.
Yes, you are correct, the little box attached to the switch wiring harness (it's blue in my case) controls the "one push down" feature. You can see the box in my video on replacing the window regulator: ruclips.net/video/M8Hfz_rCOY0/видео.html. The lower bump stop inside the door frame should prevent the window from going down too far. The blue box thing detects, I assume via a spike in amperage, that the motor is spinning but the window isn't moving and stops the motor. My guess is that either the shop damaged the wiring going to the blue box, damaged the box itself, or didn't plug it back in all the way. Hope that helps & good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and time, wish you were close to Pittsburgh, you'd have a steady customer! I'll try to be brief here-
That full view of your door at 0.10 is missing an additional connector I have. It's a white/clear wired connector end that goes nowhere, it's not terminated. Unfortunately I didn't bother to take a closer look. It's located along and parallel to the bottom edge about the midpoint of the length of the door ...... I jumped the two large terminals (ignored 3 more smaller terminals) for the (one touch?) module connector with a fuse and eliminated the module. Found that temp fix on an Explorer forum. Had to build up the fuse terminals with just a little solder so it fit tight. So it all works less the one touch feature which I don't need. But would I be right that the module (the black or blue box) also controls each of the full up and full down travel of the window- the electrical stop that is regardless of one touch or not?
What lower bump stop are you referring to? There is a metal bracket in the bottom door approx center that the regulator will bottom out on. It's not padded in any way.
I took the module apart. All the solder joints look fine. There is one electrolytic capacitor (always suspicious after 25+ years), but I don't see the value printed on it. Measures 60uf in circuit. There is also a black cylindrical part on the board which I didn't identify yet. Maybe a relay. I'll desolder it off the board later. All the resistors and diodes check fine. A few film capacitors too but unlikely culprits. I hesitate to buy another old wrecking yard electrical part, maybe I can fix this one.
Thanks for "listening".
I have a 2004 Mustang GT Convertible with a new top. I raised the window all the way to the top and tightened the top screws per your video. When I raise the window up, the window goes outside of the convertible top. In other words, when I close the door, the window is outside of the convertible top and not even under it. It seems like it is a top alignment to me but not sure how that would be done.
You don't just raise the window all the way up and leave it there. you have to adjust it afterwards by opening/closing the door, and raising & lowering the window as needed like I show in the video.
@@petrocksgarage I adjusted it up and down as well. But, by adjusting it down so it will clear the convertible top, the window is not sealed to the door on the top or on the side. I hope I am explaining it correctly.
@@alfredogutierrez5959, I think I understand what you are saying. It sounds like the weather stripping is worn out. Maybe try getting some 1/4" diameter rope and putting it behind the weather stripping so the stripping sticks out a little more. That might help in the short term. If it does then you definitely need to replace the weather stripping. Good luck.
Idk if I’ll get an answer on this but. What is causing my window to hang? It rolls up a hair to far and won’t make it past a quarter of the way down before it gets stuck
I can only guess from here. The only way to truly know the answers to your questions are to take the door panel off and have a look inside.
The roll up problem may be the upper bump stops being out of adjustment. Maybe the rubber pad fell off or deteriorated? As for getting stuck, that could be any number of problems. Bent window regulator arm, debris in the window tracks, sticking ball joint of slider where the window attaches to the regulator. The list goes on. Good luck...
@@petrocksgarage your an absolute legend i atleast have some ideas of where to start looking i really really appreciate it!
@@riskyvibes1459, thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Good luck.
I've adjusted the bump stops as far down as they'll go and have no play in my door hinges. The window still ends up too high by maybe 1/4" or more. What else can I do? Thought about adding something to the stop to make the window stop even shorter.
Could the metal frame for the top be bent? Or the weather stripping pulled down?
Adding additional padding to the bump stop is perfectly valid solution. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Figured it out! It's actually the bracket that holds the stop that the window actually slides into. The glue has given out so the bracket comes off the glass on one side when the stops press against each other. People should probably know about that as well. Went and purchased some flowable silicone to see if I can get that bracket glued back onto the window.
@@flaash2, yeah, that would do it. Good luck.
Hey brother thanks again for replying. The window is all over the place now. Literally like a small ship going up and down on the ocean. If I try to lower it it will lower some and then if I try to put it up the back will stay down while the front rolls up. I literally have to pull it up by hand to the correct height and close the door to be able to drive it. When I try to raise and lower it is puts pressure on the door panel and has made such a sound that I braced myself waiting for the window to just shatter as I tried to raise and lower it. Any input would help, if your experience is just limited to adjustments its all good, I will be looking at other videos trying to see what I can do. I can't get over him telling me I need to replace the glass, it just seems to me from your explanation that I need to find some of the glue that is used, glue the parts back on, and align the window.
Charles Murphy, it sounds like the window is off the tracks inside the door. Anyone on the internet is just going to be guessing. The only way to know whats truly going on is to take the door panel off and have a look inside. If the window is broken/damaged, replacing is is not that difficult or expensive. I replaced my wife’s with one from a junk yard a few years ago when the mounting bracket came unglued from the window. Cost me $30. I have a video on how to replace the window regulator that might help you. ruclips.net/video/M8Hfz_rCOY0G/видео.htmlood luck...
Hello thanks for the vid. The rear of my driver's side window of my '98 is going up to high. I personally haven't tried your vid but knew there were vids like this out there about the window howeverwhile my 'stang was at Ford with my Ford Mechanic friend doing a bumpsteer kit, alignment, and new rims and tires I asked him to inspect the window. He stated that the window came unglued from the track and that's why it was going up too high in the back. He reglued it with some high strength (according to him) silicone overnight. This kind of contradicts what you were saying and I was of the opinion from something I heard in a forum awhile back that a retaining clip might have broken off allowing the window to go up too much. Anyway, so my buddy siliconed the window and that silicone didn't hold, allowing the rear part of the window to go up too much again. He stated that I need an entirely new driver's side window and I didnt beleive that so I said dont worry about it. I planned on just going back to lowering the window enough to where it wasn't too high in the rear when I closed the door. I apologize for the long winded explanation but I wanted you to know exactly where I was at. So my question is, 1) Does your repair assume a window that is securely affixed to the track/regulator? If so, is the window glued on? If not, is there a clip holding the window to the track that might have broken off that he wasn't aware of. 2) or is the rear part of my driver's side window going up too high simply for just the reason you noted in your vid, being that it is out of adjustment? Or finally 3) am I totally off base and maybe your repair and the problem I am having are two totally different issues? Thanks in advance for your time!
C Murph,
- Does your repair assume a window that is securely affixed to the track/regulator?
Yes
- If so, is the window glued on?
The window is bolted to the window regulator via two metal brackets that are glued to the window. It is likely that glue your friend replaced. If that glue has failed then either regaling it or replacing the window is the correct fix.
- is there a clip holding the window to the track that might have broken off that he wasn't aware of.
There are two ‘clips’ on the front & back of the window (attached to the previously mentioned window brackets) that can come off. But if they did then the window would be very loose. There is another in the window regulator itself that if it failed the window would not go up/down straight. There are also the four clips/braces that mount to the door (which is used to align/adjust the window in this video) that also play a roll in this. If one of them came off then yes, the window would not align properly and would likely go up too high.
- is the rear part of my driver's side window going up too high simply for just the reason you noted in your vid, being that it is out of adjustment
there is a lot going on with your window apparently. Its hard to say. But if the window brackets & the window regulator are in working order, then yes a window alignment procedure shown in this video should help. However, if you have broken components in the window & window regulator assembly then all bets are off. Those broken components need to be fixed before a proper alignment can be performed.
- I totally off base and maybe your repair and the problem I am having are two totally different issues?
Its hard to say. I would have to see the insides of the door to say for sure. You could remove the door panel and have a look. Anything loose would be pretty obvious just by wiggling the window a little. Good luck...
When the weather iced up, I tried to lower my passenger window. I heard a crunching sound, so i stopped. Now my window does not fully go up into its full up position in the front part, unless I grab the top front part and pull it
up about an inch or so.. Nor will the window go all the way down. Any idea of what piece I broke?? Thanks for the help.
Its really hard to say what is wrong from my keyboard. The window regulator scissor arms may be bent or the window tracks may be damaged or have some obstruction in them. Its hard to say without pulling the door panel and having a look inside. Good luck.
So, I have a 96 convertible. My passenger side window appears to be misaligned. I just don't know whether it's in the way that this will repair. The rear of the window is pushed about 1/4 inch away from the car but the front is perfect. It lets water in. Would these adjustments fix this? Is it just an up and down problem?
Curtis Hickerson, if the window is hitting the weather stripping (causing the window to be pushed out) then yes adjusting the window as shown in this video should help. You should also check if there is any up/down play in the door hinges themselves since that can also cause your problem. With the car on level ground, open the door and try to lift the door up/down at various points in the door's travel. There should be no up/down play. If there is, then the hinge pins & bushings are probably worn and should be replaced. I have a video covering how to do that too (ruclips.net/video/hF2U8MWrqaM/видео.html). Good luck...
my 99 mustang was broken into. the way they entered my car was flexing the driver side glass back and so one... anyway now when i try to close my door the back/top of the glass hits the top of the frame, not allowing me to close the door properly unless i actually push in the glass while closing the door. will this help my situation?
Yes, your window is out of alignment, so this video should help you out. Good luck.
Very helpful. Thank You! Now I get to wait for the glue to dry on the front bracket guide. Once solid, i can then adjust the stabilizer and stop brackets. It's never one simple thing! B|
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Good luck...
Larry Larson whats the glue?
Hi, like every one is saying you have some of the best/accurate ,videos around . Iam having a problem w my sons 02 mustang both windows have come unglued from the u brackets that attach to the regulator . is there any good glue or a way of repairing them w/o replacing the whole glass ?
+mark lambert, I know exactly what you mean. The same thing happened to the drivers side window on my wife’s Mustang a few years ago. Sadly I was under a time crunch and I ended up getting a new (to me) window from a local junk yard. Maybe call around to your local auto-glass repair shops and see if they know what it is and if they could repair it? Good luck and let me know what you find out. I’m interested in knowing too. Thanks...
mark lambert you find the glue?
It s funny you should ask ,I never tackled it I used regular clear silicone but it only lasted a month. my son just told me 2 days ago that his pass side window fell off again !! LOL but the glue in the link above I posted was what the body shop said would work . I personally think the definite fix is to hit a junk yard and pull out the window with the U clips attached .
I have a 1995 convertible Left door( drivers side) window seems to have lost the front stop on my window I don't see anything there for the stop to hit so the front of the window goes to hight. What do you sugguess to Do?
If you haven't already, take the door panel off and have a look inside. Chances are high that the stop fell to the bottom of the door. There are no holes inside the door big enough for a bracket to fall through. If you still can't find it, I would go to a junk yard and get the bracket from a junker. You could also probably check eBay or a dealership too, but they will likely be more expensive. Good luck.
Great tutorial. Can this be used to address the window rattle while driving?
+michaelsjolin, it all depends on what is causing the rattle. If the window bump stops or alignment brackets are loose or not adjusted properly then yes it would help. But the only real way to know is to take the door panel off and have a look inside to see what is rattling. Good luck...
+Pet Rock's Garage Thanks for the reply!
+michaelsjolin, no problem.
Thank you this will help me a lot.
Thats great! I'm glad my vide helped you out. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
My window has shifted a little to the right after an accident, is there a way to move it a little closer to the front?
It is hard to say. It depends on the damage that was done to the door to shift the window. The slide rails determine where the window tracks. So one likely got bent or the rails mount point shifted. Good luck.
I used this video to successfully adjust the driver's side window of my 04 Mustang about 1.5yrs ago, but at the end of 2020 when I went to store her for the winter, I noticed it de-adjusted itself. Any idea what this means? I would've hand tightened the bump stop bolts nice and snug, should I have torqued them to a particular spec?
The bolts definitely could have worked themselves loose, one of the arms on the window regulator could have gotten bent, the weather stripping could have distorted, if its a convertible the convertible frame could have been distorted (by heavy snow fall, or new top being put on). I'd take the door panel off and check the bolts. If they are still tight then one of the other problems I suggested could be the cause. If they are loose, and you torqued them to spec the last time, you could add some blue loctite when you torque it down this time to ensure it doesn't come loose again.
btw, the torque spec, as shown in the video @4:40, is between 89-123 in/lbs. I like to split the difference, so 106 in/lbs. Hope that helps.
@@petrocksgarage The car is a convertible but only has 14,000 KMs on it, so it's the original top and it's never been winter driven. Hopefully by redoing this procedure and torqueing them this time, I should be good forever. Thanks a lot for the response! :)
hello. I have played your video a dozen times, I have adjusted the 4 bolts and positioned the window accordingly and I cannot get my 98 Mustang coupe v6 window to stop where it should. It goes about .5" too high and I have to lower the window a .5" to shut the door. Annoying. Do you have any suggestions as to what could be causing this? I got the car used. The control arm bolts were loose or off when I removed the door panel. I put them back on tight and just cannot get it adjusted. Frustrating. Thanks for any advice. Good videos.
+Jen L (Ruby1025), the two pump stops in the middle are supposed to prevent the window from going up too high. They need to be adjusted like I demonstrate in the video with the door closed and the window rolled up all the way. Then fine tune them afterwards. If your door has any up/down play in it when it at any point in its open/close swing then you will never be able to properly adjust the window. You need to fix the movement in the door first, which (unless the hinges are damaged or loose) should be just replacing the hinge pins & bushings. I have a video on that that might help. Good luck... ruclips.net/video/hF2U8MWrqaM/видео.html
+Pet Rock's Garage Thank you for the help, honestly the only thing I think I didn't do was close the door and put window up all the way. I left it open, and put the window up to where I wanted it to stop. Then locked down the pump stops. I didn't see how closing the door would affect it. Does it? Also, no play in window at all. Solid. Thanks for the reply.
+Jen L (Ruby1025), yes, closing the door to set the bump stops is important. Otherwise you are just guessing how high the window has to go. Good luck...
My Drivers side window is about 1/2" to high in the front when rolling it up when door is closed and adjusting like in your vid. How do I drrop the front of the window down? If I roll it up when door is open to the right height then shut the door the windows seals great. Any advise would help at this point.
Mike Hutson, the front of the window is adjusted by the brackets on the front of the door like I show in the video. Its the same procedure to adjust the back as it is to adjust the front. Good luck...
I can't find the clip the window sits in towards the mirror to replace can you help me with finding one?
First make sure it didn't fall into the bottom of the inner door. After that I don't think there is an aftermarket part for that. So either contact your local dealer or hit up a local junk yard. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage someone threw it away none at any junk yards and ford can't get it
@@billbalder5722, sorry. I'm out of ideas. I typically don't have trouble finding junked SN95 Mustangs at local pick-n-pulls or junk yards. They are pretty common.
@@petrocksgarage it's ok apparently they are rare in my area sadly
@@billbalder5722 maybe check a mustang forum and see if someone will sell you one, or find one at a junk yard near them? I've heard of junk yards that will pull the part for you and ship it to you, but I have never looked for one or used one. Good luck.
I got a 2007 mustang convertible the passenger window goes back down when I raise it. Checked the door the top of the door is about an 8th of an inch to far in to the door frame what are my options
I'm not understanding your question. When you press the up button to raise the window, instead of going up the window goes down?
Hello, I just had the driver window replaced in 2000 mustang and when the window is rolled half way down it sounds like there is a "glass plate" sort of rattling sound when I go over bumps or the car is idling. Any suggestions what my be causing this?Also the window tint is also getting long scratches in it.
+K house, it sounds like you either have something loose inside the door (like the felt-pad brackets I show in the video or some other thing). The scratches are likely caused by the same thing making the rattle. I'd suggest taking the door panel off and see what is wiggling around inside there. Shouldn't be too hard to find. Good luck...
+K house, actually if you had a shop replace the window not that long ago I would take it back to them and have them fix it. They probably didn't put it back together properly. So they should do it for free since it was their mistake that likely caused the problem. Good luck...
Dont understand about lowering the bump stops. In the video, it say to roll the window down, loosen the bump stops, close door, push bump stop down, roll window up and tighten.
Then if its too high, loosen it and lower it more.
How can you do this when it's already lowered? The rear protion of the window is too high, but bump stop is as low as it goes.
Thanks!
You loosen the upper bump stop and then roll up the window to get pretty close to the peak up position. The window will move the bump stops where they need to be as you roll it up. The window could stop when it hits the weather stripping. It can be too high if your weather stripping is old/worn out/damaged/malformed, so some adjustment may be needed after the initial step.
If the bump stop is as low as it goes and the window is still too high then I would double check the weather stripping to see if it is sagging, damaged or too low. Make sure the virtual window tracks are not bent/damaged/loose. Also make sure that the 1/8" rubber pad is still on the bump stop, if not that could be your problem. Also make sure that the bump stop is not bent. It should be in roughly the shape of an L.
If all that checks out, maybe glue on some additional rubber padding to the pump stop or lip on the window that hits the bump stop to 'extend' the bump stop a little. But that should be a last resort IMO. Good luck.
I replaced my regulators and now the window slows down after its half way up. Any idea what could cause this? I tried greasing the tracks.
It sounds like something is binding. I'd take the weather stripping off along the top of the door, and the door panel and cycle the window up/down a few times to see where it starts to slow down. It might become obvious from a visual inspection. My guess is that one of the rales may be bent/restricted or the window is not lining up with or sliding inside the front/vertical weather seal properly. Good luck.
I have a 96 Mustang and the driver side windows motor went out, but i don't have the cash right now to fix it. Right now the window is stuck down, is there any way i can pull it up and leave it.
+Dontay Womack, I'd take the door panel off and try to push the window up (don't pull) keeping an eye on the regulator to make sure you don't bend the arms. That might work. Good luck...
I have a 95 coupe and both windows seem too allow some windows and water (only car wash) in from the area around the Mach 460 door tweeters. Is this a known issue and what should I do? I feel like the problem is the rubber around the speaker as apposed to the weatherstrip around the door as it's been replaced and the issue was there before.
I'm not aware of this specific problem, but that doesn't mean it's not a known issue. I'm not familiar with where the tweeters are on your car. My wife's '98 does not have them. But any kind of water leak means that a seal is not working correctly. Either due to the window or door not sealing properly against the weather stripping, or damaged/misaligned weather stripping. Since it happens mostly in a car wash, you could probably track it down by spraying a hose all around the window and see if you can reproduce the leak and pinpoint where the leak is coming from. Remember water flows down hill so make sure to hit the top of the window too. Good luck.
Having this issue but my window whistles when it's fully up. The front seems to get pulled out by the wind when I'm driving at highway speeds. What would I need to do to get rid of this?
The wind noise is the window not sealing against the weather stripping. Either the adjustment is slightly off or the weather stripping is malformed or damaged in some way. It is hard to say which from my keyboard. If you can't find the spot with your ear, a smoke machine would help. Good luck.
Is there any chance that you could make a similar video regarding aligning the rear window of an SN-95 and New Edge? My rear window is the one that's misaligned. :)
PhoenixM, it is on my list of 'opportunity' videos to make when I'm out of things to fix. I'm just a guy in his garage, not a professional shop. So I work on things that need fixing on my friends & families cars (the list is ever growing). However, the rear window in my wife's car hasn't gone out of alignment (yet). When it does I will definitely make a video on it. Aligning the rear window is similar to the front, but a lot easier. The only difficult part is removing the plastic panels to get to the window components. Good luck...
Do windows usually have an adjustment that allows you to move them towards the front or rear of the car?
The window rides up/down on rails, so you can't really move it forward or back. But you can rotate it slightly by raising the rear bump stop and lowering the front (or vise versa) to clean up a gap you may have. Good luck.
On my 01 my windows go up to far. Can I just adjust the bump stops or do I need to loose all the bolts like you did in the video?
You might be able to get away with it, but you aren't saving yourself a lot of time or effort. There could be something else in the alignment that is causing your problem. I'd do it right the first time and do it like I did in the video. Good luck.
Pet Rock's Garage so the front part of the window looks good but the back part I have having a hard time getting to set. could my weatherstripping be bad?
It could be, but I would try doing the adjustment first. On the car in the video it had a similar problem to yours where the front would seat properly in the weather stripping, but the back would not. The alignment fixed it.
In the video you said to set the bump stop bolts all the way down and then tighten, then as your doing the adjustment you say to move the bolts down 1/8 in. how can you move them down any further?
I assume you mean around 2:05 in the video. With the window all the up like that the bump stop doesn't go all the way down in it's groove. Its coming into contact with the window. So when you adjust it later there is still room to move it down.
I have a 2001 stang that has a passenger window issue. The passenger window will always work if the drivers door is open, but as soon as the driver's door closes, the passenger window doesn't go up or down. Any suggestions?
The wire between the window lockout button in the drivers door control panel and the passenger door is damaged/broken. Chances are the broken wire is inside the little rubber accordion boot thing that goes between the body of the car and the door. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Not an easy fix then? I guess I need a mechanic. Thanks
Its really not a tough job, but if you don't feel comfortable/confident tracking down & repairing wiring issues, then yeah you should take it to a mechanic. Make sure to take it to one that is good at wiring issues. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Thanks!
I'll give it a shot on my own first.
I fixed myself! Thanks again!
very informative. good video!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Hey there, i had a question maybe you might now the answer to it, i have a 91 mustang convertible and my passenger side window when being rolled down it "drops down" or jumps a couple of times but only when its going down,i checked my motor and of course the little bushings were shot, i installed some new ones and same problem, i did notice the motor had a little play in it and i know window motors that are in good shape usually have zero play in them, i checked the regulator, no broken teeth so i ordered a new motor and a new lower door guide bushing(verts only have one bushing, the upper is not meant to wear and its riveted to the bracket and its in excellent condition) which haven't arrived yet, this might not be the problem but at least its a start, what is causing this drop in the window? someone i know thinks that the motor might have a bad worm gear that i haven't spotted and thats why the problem happens twice, basically when it goes around the shaft twice while rolling down if this makes any sense, thank you for your time!!
dntlss, its hard to diagnose these kinds of issues from my keyboard. I’d advise pulling the door panel and rolling the window up & down a couple times while watching the components inside the door. Maybe something is binding up the window, something is stuck in the slide rails the window slides up/down on, or something else all together. If the problem was the motor or the gears then it would happen going up & down, not just one direction. Good luck...
Pet Rock's Garage Thank you for the reply,i know what you mean about diagnosing from the keyboard, ive had the door panel off and like i said i ordered a new motor and a new rod guide bushing just because i want to replace them,the problem only happens going down, i haven't seen anything amiss in there but i do know that if i bump it lightly with the switch around the time when it does one of the drops (it does 2 drops on the way down) i can actually see the regulator arm sliding down a bit on the track which is basically the drop in slow motion,isn't the regulator arm attached to the motor gears? what i mean is once you install a window motor don't the gears in the motor hold the regulator teeth securely or at least its supposed to? also whats the purpose of the spring in the regulator? if its held by the window motor why does it need a spring? thank you again and i appreciate your time and sorry for the bother.
dntlss, it sounds like the window is sticking in the track. Make sure the regulator arms & window tracks aren’t bent, twisted or damaged. A little general purpose grease or white lithium grease (my preferred) on the tracks would’t hurt either. The regulator arm is meshed with the gears on the motor. There are additional (plastic) gears inside the motor that sometimes get messed up, but since you replaced the motor with a new one and the problem didn’t go away then its not the gears. I would assume the spring has two purposes. It helps the motor push the window up so the motor doesn’t work so hard and it also forces the window up in the event of the plastic gears inside the motor failing so the window doesn't crash down into the bottom of the door and possibly break. That is my theory at least. Good luck...
Pet Rock's Garage Hey thank you much for all the help,just wanted to say that on my previous messages i had said i had a new window motor on order but i HADN'T installed it yet,i received it today and i installed it and i think that was my problem, im still waiting for my guide rod bushing so i don't want to roll it up and down too much but i did roll it down one time and it didn't jump so i think the old motor was just worn out after 24 years, i am however gonna put some grease on the tracks like you said for preventative maintenance ,again thank you so much for your help !!!!
dntlss, oh, I thought you had already replaced the motor and the problem remained. Ok. That makes more sense then. The plastic gears inside the old motor were probably shot. Take unscrew the plate around the metal gear to see the plastic ones inside to confirm. Good luck...
Your videos are really helpful, but i have a question. Do I need a torque Wrench to loosen and tighten the brackets or is it possible for me to just get the job done with my hands? My reason for asking is because I don't have a torque wrench at the moment.
+James Smith, no you don’t absolutely need a torque wrench for this job. Just snug the bolts down really well. Good luck...
Haha okay thanks.
+James Smith. No problem.
what's the best glue for the windows for the inside parts of this cars ? any recommendations
I'm not sure which glue you are referring to. The glue for the braces on the window glass itself? or the glue for the rubber pads on the bump stops? Or some other glue?
ZURIEL Betancourt did you get the glue and so which?
Charle Cordova im trying Goop
How to adjust the conv.cap. on 2000mustang 3.8l
convert.cap? Do you mean the convertible top?
I’ve tried mechanics I’ve tried replacing the window my self but nothing seems to do the job the window gets stuck half way and I have to help it by pulling the window back and pressing the window at the same time I’ve tried a whole new regulator with a new window and seems to work alittle bit more but it’s still struggling need professional help
That sounds like the window is binding in the rails that the window slides up/down on. Or the regulator arm is bent in some way causing a bind. It's hard to say from my keyboard. Also wouldn't hurt to lube up the rails. Good luck.
Would this work on a 14 mustang convertible
I'm not sure. I haven't had the door apart on that year mustang. I would assume the operation would be similar though. Only way to know is to take the door panel off and have a look inside.
my car is missing a bump stop do you know where i could find one at thanks!
I picked mine up from a local junk yard. Otherwise your local dealer should have them Good luck.
thanks!
I have an 86 mustang will this be similar?
I haven't worked on that year mustang, but I would presume it is similar. Best way to find out would be to take off the door panel and have a look inside. If it has similar brackets/bump-stops then it should be similar. Good luck.
Is there one of these videos out here for the S197 ('05-'09)?
I don't have easy access to that era Mustang. Sorry. Good luck in your search.
I have an 1995 5.0 Mustang pretty much same as that one. In this case the rear part of the window wont stay in the rail. When the window goes down too far it pops out of the rail I tries several adhesives to keep it in the rail but nothing works. Im thinking its going down too far. Is there a way to adjust the stop so it doesnt go down too far?
The stops only give about an inch or two adjustment in the up position. They don't prevent the window going down. That is done by the window regulator. Its hard to tell what you mean by it popping out of the rail though. If the little rolling disk thing stays in the rear rail and the nub on the window bracket pops off the rolling disk then the problem is either the rail is bent or the window regulator is bent. I had that problem on my wife's mustang a while ago. The window regulator arm was bent. I tried bending it back in place but could never get it right. So I ended up replacing the entire window regulator assembly and haven't had a problem since. Good luck.
Thanks for the reply I did the same thing this one is a Dorman but still the same problem. I also tried squeezing the top rail and glueing it. The side with the wheel at the door opening still pops out when the window hits the end of down travel. Any idea what kind of glue is used?
I'm not sure what type of glue is used. Some kind of epoxy most likely. Also make sure that the brackets that are glued to the window glass are secure. If those brackets are loose it will cause problems. There should also be a big rubber bumper at the bottom of the door for the window to hit when it goes all the way down. Maybe it is missing, worn out, or out of position? It is hard for me to diagnose without actually seeing the door. Good luck.
Pet Rock's Garage could you make a video explaining how to glue window and send the link to the glue because only one side of my window hangs when put all the way down
my window goes up too far and these adjustments do diddly squat. the window is not unglued it still looks brand new. the window just wont lower for some reason.
The window pump stops are supposed to prevent the window from going up to far. Make sure the window is hitting the bump stops in the up position. If not, there's your problem. Good luck.
What about the rear windows of a convertible?
The ones on my wife's care are fine so I haven't had a chance to make one on the rear windows. Sorry.
@@petrocksgarage Please make one for the rear windows! lol
@@cburdett4, I'll see what I can do.
The problem I had with my window (2000) coupe, was that the bracket on the window in the rear that contacts the stop and is riveted to the regulator arm became loose (just bonded by RTV) and the arm was pushing the front of it up but the stop hitting the rear of the bracket so it was jacking up the window glass too high. I had to pull the bracket off, drill out the rivet and clean all the RTV off the glass and bracket to put a bead of RTV in the Channel of the bracket. Let it cure 24hrs. and it works fine after stop adjustment.
Glad to hear you got it figured out and fixed. That goo isn't RTV (the gasket maker) though. It's a glass adhesive. RTV might hold up, but keep an eye on it. If it does fail clean off the RTV really well and pick up some window glass adhesive/epoxy from your local auto parts store and re-apply. Prepping the surface is key, so follow the instructions. Good luck.
Helpful. Thanks
Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out.
my window came out of the holder glue and i have no clue on how to fix it im about to buy a new door
Thats not a big deal actually and you don't need a new door. :-) You have a couple options:
- Find/buy a used window from your local junk yard/pick-n-pull
- Buy some window glue and glue the bracket back onto the window. Search for 'Window Weld' and you'll find a bunch of options that some autocrats stores carry. The key is in the preparation. The better you prepare the surfaces the better the glue will hold. Don't rush or skimp on the prep work.
Good luck.
Mine did that, I it fixed with some JB clear weld glue epoxy, not the regular JB weld. There is also a guy on ebay who sells a new window with a better attachment system. You drill out the rivets get your old window out and replace it using 1/4-20 1/2" bolts to attach to the window regulator. So far my glue job works. Prep is key, get all the old glue off the window and out of the bracket, use goo gone, razor blade etc. Then alcohol clean and glue it together. I let it set 2 days.
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks this video worked great
+Vincent Smith, I’m glad it helped. Thanks...
You save money. And 2002 Mustang GT paint job 👌
*****, I’m glad to help. :-)
My windows have been such a pain in my 99 hopefully this will fix it!
+sluder4, good luck...
I tightened the right side passengers windows all the way down and it still rises up too high on the back of the window. Not really sure why it's still doing this after pushing them down as far as they would go.
Do you have any videos on how to fix my window being off track? My drivers side window doesn't roll up or down and it sounds as if it's off track. Anyway to fix this? Didn't wanna try to fix it before knowing what I would be getting in to.
sluder4, does the bump stop still have the rubber nub on it? If not that may be where the extra vertical movement is from. The other issue could be that the metal bracket on your window is bent down or loose causing the window to go up higher then intended.
As for the window being off track I don't have any videos on that. But the window regulator is fairly simple mechanically. If you take the door panel off you might be able to see why it is popping out of the track. Maybe the window regulator scissor arms are bent? Or a variety of other reasons. Only way to know is to take the door panel off and have a look inside. Good luck...
That's what I'm talking about! thank you.
Glad to be of service.
My window is still going over when it’s all the way up witch keeps the back open
what do you mean by "over"? Do you mean it is moving too far up? if so, then your bump stops need adjusting as shown in the video.
After all this my window still angles out at the back by about 3/16 at the top and it will still try to go too high. Screw it it's going to the shop. This car is so twisted nothing lines up anyway I cant even get my tires aligned because the frame is so far out
Sorry to hear that. Good luck.
thank you it was very helpful
+Nimer Zreak, no problem. I’m glad it helped.
My boss has a 99' Mustang convertible and his passenger window goes up too high on the left side (side view mirror side) by more than an inch. Fiddled around with the bump stop adjustments and noticed the side in which I'm having a problem has no rubber attached to the bottom of the stop. I also found this part in the bottom of the door panel ( imgur.com/a/ZHoRA ) , but it doesn't seem like it came off of the window anywhere. Work has been done before, I can see drilled rivets in the bottom of the door. Could it have been from a previous window?
+Brian DeBartolo, the rubber part may have fallen inside your door frame. Check the bottom and see if it's there. If it is you can super-glue it back on. If its not you can cut a piece of rubber from some scrap you may have laying around the house and super-glue it back on. While not a required piece it does effect the alignment of the window and helps dampen the sudden stop that occurs when you roll the window all the way up.
As for the bracket in your picture, it is supposed to be glued/attached to the front side of the window (mirror side) and the plastic tab on the end is supposed to ride up/down a metal channel inside the door frame. Check if your window has a similar bracket on it. If so, then the one in your picture may be from a previous window. If your window doesn't have that bracket then you should replace the window since the bracket needs to be mounted in a semi-precise location. If its out of position the window won't track correctly as it goes up and down. Good luck...
great guide, thank you! really helped
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Helped a lot. Thank you
No problem. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Awesome video...Thanks much.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Very helpful. Thank you!
Glad to be of service. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the video, I still have problems with my window, I did everything you have showed but the glass keeps going all the way up and hits the rubber. I played with the screws as you are showing but nothing, it keeps going 1/2" high. I cannot make it stop adjusting those bolts. Do I need to buy a window regulator??
Check your door hinge pins. If they are worn out then you will never be able to properly adjust the window. Open the door slightly and pull up on the bottom of the door. If you see any movement in the hinge pins then they are worn out and should be replaced. I have a video covering how to do that (ruclips.net/video/hF2U8MWrqaM/видео.html). Good luck.
Thanks so much for the fast reply. Yes the door has a play.
If there is play, then you need to fix that before you can properly align the window. Good luck.
Great job. Thanks!
No problem.
Has anyone had a problem with a convertible top fitting too big?
Too big?
@@petrocksgarage i have a 1998 mustang, and got a frame from a 96 mustang and It was overshooting where it latches on
@@brianguerrero3913, either the top is the wrong one, the top frame is bent, or the car frame is bent. I'd be more skeptical of the top, but stranger things have happened. The vert mustang frames are stiffened underneath to account for the missing roof.
thanx for your speedy response . the only thing I found was 3m windshield adhesive . here is the link:www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 I was afraid to use it ,but I might give it a try . IF we don't sell the car .
+mark lambert, cool. Thanks for the link. Hopefully you can find a smaller tube of that stuff since you probably don't need a lot. It looks like it will do the job nicely. I also found this video on RUclips from a guy doing a similar job on his car. It might be another alternative solution: ruclips.net/video/SL3VPqAMUPo/видео.html
good stuff man, thanks
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Pretty darn helpful
Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Driver side will not go down. Only half way.
Either the window regulator is bent or something is blocking it from going all the way down. Only way to find out is to remove the door panel and have a look inside to see what's wrong. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage thanks. George Amaya
@@georgeamayasr6972 no problem. good luck.
You may need to fix the glued on brackets on the glass before adjusting. lmr.com/item/LRS-63214BRKT-K/mustang-window-support-bracket-kit-94-04
While I've never used that kit, nor know anyone who has, it might help some people. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks brother 👍
No problem.
Lifesaver
Glad to be of service.
I found out the metal bracket that's glued onto the bottom of the glass and acts as the stop came loose on the back side so when it hit the stop it just pivots down. Stupid design by ford, the regulator is attached to the front of that bracket and the stop hits the rear part so of course it's going to put a lot of pressure on it and make the glass slip out of the bracket over time. I just scraped the glass with a razor scraper and wiped it down with Acetone then cleaned out the groove in the bracket with a scraper and thin flat head screwdriver then shot some RTV in the groove and slid it in place where I had marked the glass with a carbide scribe tool to get the placement right. I'm going to let that set for a day before I put it all back together. Oh also, to get the bracket out of the track you have to take the three retaining nuts off of the track and slide it down, the bracket has a roller that has to come out of the top of the rear track and you drill the rivet that holds the regulator to that bracket in the front. You can use an automatic center punch or small punch and tap hammer to knock the center pin out of the rivet and then drill it. They use a special 1/4" rivet that splits into thirds as you pull it down with the giant special rivet gun you can get at HFT. Rivets can be bought at NAPA. It's the short one for window regulators.
Thats awesome that you figured out the problem and was able to fix it. Depending on the RTV you used (i.e. adhesive RTV, not oil gasket maker), it should do the job. There are Glass Weld/Adhesive/Epoxy/Glue stuff out there available at most autoparts stores that are specific for glass. They aren't cheap though. Getting stuff to stick to smooth surfaces, like glass, is tricky. Like with most glue jobs, prepping the surfaces is key. I found this video that might help you out too: ruclips.net/video/Fw4AQbIX4Uw/видео.html
Re rivets, you can also use nuts & bolts.Thats what I did on my wife's car a while ago and haven't had an issue. I show it in my video on replacing the window regulator on a Mustang. I think I used 1/2" long bolts at 1/4"x20 thread pitch: ruclips.net/video/M8Hfz_rCOY0/видео.html
Hope that helps & good luck!!!
I really dislike taking door panels apart. Too many plastic parts that can easily brake. Usually the pins/clips/flanges that hold the panel to the door frame. 😒
Yeah, plastic on older vehicles can be finicky, especially when working in a cold environment. When the garage/outside is warm the plastic is a little more forgiving. I've had some success re-gluing clips that have broken with super glue and/or JB-Weld (for plastic), reinforced with some paperclips embedded in the glue/goo.
thank you
No problem.