How To Replace Front Wheel Hub & Bearing - Ford Mustang (’05 - ’14)
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2016
- This video is a step by step guide on how to replace the front wheel hub & bearing on an ’07 Ford Mustang GT500. This video applies to the V6, GT & GT500 Ford Mustangs models from ’05 to ’10.
This is a very basic & simple job that can be done in less then an hour, even if you take your time, with simple hand tools in your driveway. I show some tips & tricks to make this job quick & easy.
My “’07 Ford Mustang GT500 Repair & Maintenance" Playlist:
• ’07 Ford Mustang GT500...
The information in this video is for educational purposes only. Pet Rock assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use the information in this video at your own risk. Pet Rock recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Pet Rock. 
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Guy knows how to convey technical information.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
As a certified technician, This is a great video with very good easy to follow content. Well done sir.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
@@petrocksgarage how can i remove the back hubs from a 2013 mustang gt 5.0? Do i hammer it out im putting new break calipers and now im stuck on the hub can seem to take it off
@@Gumorisco11, there is no rear hub on a 2013 mustang. It has a solid rear diff.
@@petrocksgarage but how can i remove the bolts? Becuase im putting new wilwood calipers and the ebrake goes inside the hub theres 4 bolts but the abs sensor is blocking it from removing them
@@Gumorisco11, i'm not sure which bolts you are referring to. My guess, given you mention the ABS sensor is in the way, is to remove the ABS sensor to get access to the bolts.
Did it myself in the driveway yesterday , piece of cake, again many thanks for the tips
Thats great. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
I'm looking to replace my bearing on 2007 Ford mustangV6... Does this video apply???
These cars are so easy to work on. Big S197 fan
Totally agree! You can practically stand/sit in the engine bay unlike most 'modern' cars these days.
Nice, clear and concise video. Straight to the point with no filler 👍🏿👍🏿
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Dude everything you said was true did mine just now within 45 minutes thanks your video helped a lot
Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Thank you for this video and all your other videos on the Mustang. I watched some of your videos before doing my rear bearings today. Turns out my fronts are making noise too, so I am replacing those this coming week. Seems a lot easier.
I'm glad my videos are helping you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Thank you for your well explained video. You just saved me a few hundred dollars. God bless you and your family.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Great job narrating and providing valuable comments. Thank you sir.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Nice job!!! I own a 2007 GT and have to change out the wheel bearing's, Thank You for explaining the process.
No problem. Glad to be of service.
Thanks brother. much appreciated. My car started sounding like an airplane haha so i knew i needed to get this done and i hate paying another man for something i can do myself.
Glad to be of service.
Hey Bro, Great Video and Thank you for communicating Torques and Size on that Spindle Nut which I didn't watch this and realize it was one time use until after I got my car tore apart LoL. Now that I got them etc I should be good. Did want to add that you could add the Torques and Sizes/Tools required in the information section for future use or people like me who watched 5 times just to make sure I got the right stuff Hahaha. Thanks!
Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out. Good idea on listing tools, torques & sizes in the description. I'll see what I can do.
Like the way you explain the process, good job 👍
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Wow ! This guy knows his stuff . Great vid ! Thanks !
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
NOW THIS IS A WELL EXPLAINED video thnx 👌🏼
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great video. Very informative. Thks
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Gonna be doing this soon! Thanks for the video!
May the Schwarts be with you!!!
Very helpful. Thank you!
No problem. Glad to be of service.
Thank for the video! Just did this in my driveway and it was a breeze!
Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Very nice i know the parts and tools thanks saved a ton of people a bunch of time
Glad to be of service.
Your video helped me a lot. Thx ('05 v6)
Thats great. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Seems almost too easy. Should be able to get of mine done in 8 hours judging by past experiences.
Its really not that difficult. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage 8 hours? Maybe 2-3, maybe 4 for both. looks super straight forward compared to past ones i've done
Takes about an hour IF the hub isn’t seized to the spindle
@@richie2dicks468 took me about 30 minutes a side with my good old Milwaukee impact
I realize you are probably self-deprecating.
I live in an apartment and am allowed to do work in the alley parking lot. Two years ago I changed out my '00 GT intake manifold there(!).
Just yesterday I did the wheel bearings along with summer wheel change over.
2.5 hours to:
Haul out tools
Haul out tires
Remove tires
Remove wheel bearings
Replace wheel bearings
Replace tires
Test drive
Haul in tires
Haul in tools.
This helped me out a lot!
Thats's great. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Doing a friend mustang tomorrow. Great video, I wanted to get right to it. Simple enough. Thanks.
Yeah, its fairly straight forward. I'm glad my video helped you out. Good luck.
Pet Rock's Garage
Got it done yesterday! Thanks. That dust cap is actually metal with some type of rubber coating. I realize that when I dropped it and the sound it made.
I love you thanks so much for the great informational videos. Love working on my own car but since I'm a girl No one wants to help they just wanna do it or take it to a shop! I'm good on that sometimes I just need some pointers 😊
I'm glad my video helped you out. Working on cars isn't rocket surgery. Anyone can do it. Those who say otherwise don't know what they are talking about.
Thanks for the video. Mine came off with no problem.
No problem and glad to hear yours came off easier.
Excellent , thank you !
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Nice video, thank you
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the great video. Everything just fell off in my hands :-) thank God I live in Arizona, not one flake of rust.
Took me an hour not including store and test drive time.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Working on a rust free vehicle is always easier, IMO.
Great video im a new sub .....thanks
Thats awesome! Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
wow.. i wish mine came off that easy...nice vid
yeah, I was seriously surprised at how easy it came off. I was all ready to use a puller etc, and it just slid right off. I laughed pretty hard, especially considering the rotor was rusted on.
Awesome thanks!!!! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼!!!
Thanks a lot. Glad to be of service.
Thanks man
You're welcome.
Well this just saved me $500 in labor costs!!
Ty!!
You're welcome! Pay it forward if you please... Thanks.
Pushing down on torque wrench rather than pulling up is easier. Good video, thanks !
You get more force & control pulling up since you can use your legs (like a deadlift in a way). You only have your body weight when pushing down. But in the end, use whatever method gets you the click/clack.
Nice work on the car and with the camera.
Thanks a lot I appreciate it.
Great video now you have a new subscriber and you like👍
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Hey excellent video & thank you very much for making it so clear to do step by step 👍 how long should it take do you think to do both sides incase i pay a good shop to do it
It is really hard to say how long it will take for a shop to do it. There are a lot of variables in how long it takes (e.g. tools at hand, how damaged/rusted it is etc). A shop will use a standard book time to quote you a price. It is almost always longer then it really takes to do the job, but without it the tech would not make any money (the techs profits are governed by how much faster they can do a job relative to the book time). Hope that helps.
Tremendous help thank u soooo fuckin much iv got a 96 tbird an was having the hardest time with this wheel hub add to the fact that i couldn't find anything anywhere on it an i wanted to make sure i did it right but this video helped alot while mine was not a mustang it was the same setup as my tbird now i can finish putting it allllll back together i redid the whole front-end now i can get an alignment an go do some donuts lol thanks 😀👍👍👍👍
Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out. Good luck & have fun.
Great video. Apparently you consulted the Ford Mustang service manual because your details and torques were right on. Even the professionals' videos didn't do the prescribed procedures that you cover here.
The reason I am watching these videos is the reason I have to replace the bearing hub ass'y. is because things were not tightened down on the right front wheel of my Granddaughter's Mustang and the wheel flew off going down the interstate and I don't want my repair job be the cause of this happening again. I was concerned about the torque on the axle nut for this reason. The auto parts store already had their 250LB torque bar loaned out when I picked up all the parts so I was thinking that the torque spec was just to make sure that it would not loosen back up and I would just torque it by feel and I should be somewhere close to okay. Now that I know that this torque sets the tightness of the bearing itself, I am going back into town to get a torque wrench.
I noticed that you didn't use new anchor plate bolts as the Ford manual prescribed and used an anti-lock compound on them instead of a lock-nut compound like the factory did.. I couldn't see any reason why I would not want to use these perfectly good bolts over again.
p.s. I would like to know who the two were that gave this video a thumbs down. One of them must have been the last person to work on my Granddaughter's Mustang. I want to make sure that I never have these shade tree mechanics work on any of my vehicles.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Yes, I consulted the factory service manual. It is the first purchase I make after I buy a vehicle. Pays for itself with the first service.
I'm glad to hear your granddaughter is OK after having the front wheel fall off. That must have been a wild ride. Re the torque wrench, yes it is very important to get the correct preload on the bearings. You can sometimes get away with torquing some nuts/bolts down by feel, but not axle nuts or any nuts that apply preload to a bearing for that matter. Better to be safe then sorry.
In my experience the anchor plate bolts are reusable. They aren't torque-to-yield bolts, so if they aren't damaged then they should be OK to reuse. As for using anti-seize on the bolts, you don't have to if you don't want to. I do because I've had those bolts rust/seize up in the past and they are a P.I.T.A. to remove and often strip out threads when rusted/seized. If you torque them down properly they should not come loose. This car has gone 20k+ miles (including two road trips across multiple states) since I did this service with no problems.
I too would like to know who gave the thumbs down. Some people are never satisfied I guess.
Thanks for watching & commenting on my video. I'm glad it helped you out.
Great video man very easy to follow. I have a 2007 mustang gt and my back wheel is making a squeaking noise everytime I pass 20mph could this be the problem??
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. This video is about the front wheel bearings. If your noise is coming from the back then it would be coming from the rear differential or u-joints in the axle shaft. There are multiple bearings involved there that could be the culprit. I have a video covering replacing the axle bearings which you might find useful if those bearings are the cause. Good luck. ruclips.net/video/VXEqzMVRRso/видео.html
Can't wait to do it on the v6 tomorrow or Friday, got to do all the Rotors too , then it passes the MVA
No time like the present! :-) Good luck.
Well done, man that bearing just fell off , most times I'm bashing on it for a while just to get it loose. You were just a surprised . Take Care buddy.
yeah, I started to laugh at how easy it just slid off. I was seriously not expecting it to since the rotor was stuck. Thanks for watching & commenting...
Very good explanation, I want to know if your brotherinlaw let's you drive that GT500?
Thanks. Letting me drive it from time to time is part of the deal for fixing his car for free. 😎
Wondering how you can tell they need replacing?
My mechanic showed me some slight movement of the front wheels on the lift.
But only 50k on the car.
No noise or any other symptoms. 05 Mustang Gt.
Thanks!
Movement is a sign of a bad ball joint, wheel bearing or tie rod. Any movement is bad. So if they showed you movement, then something is definitely wrong and needs to be replaced.
But the bigger and more pressing question is how can a almost 15 yr old car only have 50k miles on it? Trailer/Garage queen?
This wasn’t too bad compared to changing the strut mounts. Finished on about 2hrs & 45 mins.
Yeah, it's a fairly straight forward job yet shops charge an arm & a leg to do it for you.
Excellent video. I am thinking I need to replace either one or both of mine on my 2012 GT. I am hearing somewhat of a humming/slight grinding noise in my front-end that gets slower and faster with the speed of the car. Is there any way to confirm they need replacing?
This could be a lot of things. From something as simple as the dust shield rubbing on the brake rotor, to a seized brake caliper or brake pad, to a bad bearing. The list goes on. Only way to know is to jack up the front of the car and have a look. You can test the bearings by jacking up one side of the car, grabbing the tire at 9 & 3 o'clock positions and push/pulling. Then try 12 & 6 o'clock and repeat. Any movement is too much movement. Movement at 3 & 9 can be bad tie rods, so make sure to have a visual on what is actually moving (via a buddy looking behind the wheel for what is moving or using a video camera). Good luck.
Pet Rock's Garage , thanks for the advice! Time to get busy troubleshooting 👍
"If you don't have a lot of bodyweight, don't worry, you can rent some at your local auto parts store for a few bucks" lol
Seriously though, thanks for the vid! I'm running through various maintence on my 06 v6 stang
You can rent almost anything these days. :-) Good luck with your maintenance work.
+Pet Rock's Garage Sure can! Keep up the 05-09 mustang vids, love them
I am about to change mine too. I saw you applied the anti-seize. Do we have to apply the anti-seize? Also, should we apply the grease for the new bearing? Thank you so much!
You don't absolutely have to, but it is highly recommended. If you ever have to take things apart again in the future, for whatever reason, the anti-seize makes it much easier. The anti-seize helps prevent rust from bonding the parts together.
@@petrocksgarage Thank you! Really helps me a lot. Do I have to apply the grease for the new bearing? I didn't see you do that.
The bearing is a sealed bearing, so it comes pre-greased. No need to do anything with it. Hope that helps.
@@petrocksgarage Thank you so much!
Is the bearing a sealed unit? Just bought a 2006 mustang and found it is missing the dust cover. I'm concerned trash or water could have gotten inside the hub. Thanks for the video.
Yes, it should be a sealed bearing. Re the dust cover, do you mean the little cap that goes over the spindle nut around @2:32? If thats missing then the inner bore of the hub might rust to the spindle shaft or rust the nut to the shaft making it difficult to remove the hub. But it won't effect the operation of the bearing. Its better to have the cover of course. Make sure to clean the threads & shaft as best you can when/if you take the hub off. Good luck.
Did mine today and the hardest part was taking that damn cap off and putting it back on, I got frustrated and just banged it back in with my hammer 🦍
Whatever gets the job done.
What kind of antiseize do you use?
Either the Silver or Copper color anti seize will do the job. The brand doesn't really make a difference. Most auto parts stores carry it. Hope that helps.
Do you need to replace the whole wheel hub with the bearing? Or can you press a new bearing into the hub? First time doing this :)
Yes you probably can. I could have sworn rockauto.com sold just the bearing, but they don't. They only have the assembly. The key is to find a place that sells the bearings and finding a shop to press the old one out and the new one in. Total cost might be higher than just buying the hub & bearing as an assembly though. You'll have to shop around. Good luck.
Do you have any advice on were to buy a Long Block 3.8L V6 232ci Reman engine? Autozone etc.. for my 96 mustang. Autozone price is about $1900.00 but worried about the quality, never bought a Reman from them. thanks.
I have not bought a reman engine either. But I would assume that it would be safer then buying a used one from a junk yard. It should come with a warranty of some kind too. Good luck.
I have installed some Reman engins in the past, never from autozone, but they do ,for mine, have the best price. I'll give it a try and let you know, It will be a few weeks, have to save some cash to buy it.
Good luck.
Welp I just got finished changing mine for the first time... Yall say a prayer that my wheels don't fall off.. Thanks
Good luck!!!
What’s the cap on that you removed called?
You mean the one that goes over yet axle nut? It's called a wheel dust cap. Hope that helps.
is changing the rear wheel bearing different? 05 v6
Yes, because its part of the differential. See my video on how to do that: ruclips.net/video/VXEqzMVRRso/видео.html
Is the 36 socket a 12 point or regular ?
Either one will get the job done, but a 6pt socket is best for high torque applications like this. The one I rented for this video was a 6pt.
Is this the same process in the rear?
No, completely different. I have a video covering the rear though: ruclips.net/video/VXEqzMVRRso/видео.html
Was this bearing noisey or giving other symptoms? Ive got an 06 v6 that has a whopping 241k on it. 5spd and she'll still fly! Shes not letting those miles keep her down. But ive experienced an issue for awhile now but never really payed much mind to it as it was a pretty rare thing. At highspeeds such as a bypass at around 70mph if im turning right around a bend at speed it sounds like the tire on the driverside is roaring. Thats the only time it makes this noise. Sounds about like a lifted truck with some knobbly tires. Straighten the wheel it goes away immediately. Well last night I was in a similar area where this always happened except this time it felt like my wheel was about to fall off. And at 70mph that would have been 0 fun. I got out and checked the lugnuts (cause it felt and sounded like loose lugnuts). Ive also developed a shake in my steering wheel on the highway that shops cant seem to figure out. They claim the rotors are running true, tires are balanced perfect and seem defect free. Im still going to swap my front tires to the rear and see what happens but while im there im going to check for any play in that wheel bearing and the other side aswell for good measure.
In this case the bearing would wiggle when you lift the wheel off the ground and wiggle the tire. The motor & exhaust on this car is WAY too loud to be able to hear bearing noise, let alone a door panel rattle. The issue you are describing sounds like a classic case of a bad drivers side wheel bearing. However, it could also be a bad drivers side axle bearing in the differential, or the drivers side tire rubbing against the wheel well. Good luck.
Thanks will hopefully found out something today when I get it in the air. My car has stock-ish exhaust so I can hear every still squeak and rattle it makes
How do you know when it is 220ft lbs of torque on the new spindle nut?
By using a torque wrench set to 220ft lbs. It will either click or beep (depending on the model wrench you have) when you hit the desired torque.
@@petrocksgarage Thank you for your prompt reply!
Just wondering about the ABS sensor. Didnt see it. Does it just stay in place?
Yes, it stays in place. It isn't in the way.
@@petrocksgarage Thanks! Best video on RUclips! We are replacing these on my 07 GT Convertible.
@@dreamarhodes8922, Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I’ve been a tech for 2 years. I’ve never used a new axle nut when doing a hub
Then you've been cutting corners and getting lucky. Good luck!
I just took the hub assembly off my 08mustang and it didn't have the abs tone ring. But my new hub has it. did i get the wrong part?
Yes, you got the wrong part. Although you might be able to get away with the hub with the tone ring. From pictures online, it looks like the hubs are the identical and the tone ring is pressed on. I'm not entirely sure. I have never compared them side by side before. If the hub isn't used or damaged, you should be able to return it for the correct part. That is what I would do. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage thanks
@@tristanjoseph8207 no problem. Good luck.
Just did that, now I’m Getting a noise every rotation. I had my tires balanced right after as well.
'A noise' is not a lot to go on. A common problem is the splash shield behind the rotor is coming in contact with the rotor or wheel.
It’s like a deep noise that vibrates the front right side of the car, also shakes the steering wheel rapidly. Thanks for the help
Joey Swander Make sure the back of the wheel that goes against the hub, doesn’t have any trash or rust etc. on it keeping it from sitting flush with the hub. Was the hub new, or did you just replace the wheel barring? Also If you had The wheels balanced, make sure the shop torqued them down to 100 foot pounds!
Yes, what Eddie J said. And I'll add make sure there is no dirt/rust on the brake rotor where it comes in contact with the hub. The wheel & rotor need to be flush against the hub. If either is off by even a little bit you can get vibration.
Hi im trying to find the bearings for my 2006 v6 car.. I could not find which one it is, they have allot of deferent ones. If its not to much of a bother would you be able to help me with that and which brand is better.
Check out rockauto.com. They have a couple different manufacturers for bearings for your car. Timken, SKF & National are good brands. Good luck.
Pet Rock's Garage what is the difference between lock and w/o lock
I need more context.
Pet Rock's Garage your barings have like a star in the back side and the w/o locks is just smooth those are the 2 options on that website
Oh, you mean the tone ring on the back of the hub. That is for anti-lock brakes. Which one to get depends on if you have anti-lock brakes on your car or not. That is not something I can answer.
I know this may be a silly question but I tried look for the rear ones, and I can’t find any, they only have them for the front , do they even sell rear ones?
Not for mustangs built before 2017. They all have a solid rear axle which don't have wheel hubs. They have rear axle bearings instead.
Pet Rock's Garage my car does some shaking and I’ve replaced almost everything except the wheel bearing assembly, I just want my stang to drive smoothly :(
@@edgarl5453, I seriously doubt its the wheel bearings. If they were bad they would cause noise, not shaking. By just replacing parts you are effectively throwing darts in the dark and hoping to hit a bullseye. I'd put down your wallet and take the car to a shop to have it properly diagnosed. It could be anything from unbalanced or out of round wheel/tire, unbalanced/bent drive shaft, bent axle(s), bad harmonic balancer... The list goes on and on. Good luck.
Where can I get the new spindle nut? I have 2014 Mustang? Does it have to be from Ford directly? Please advise. Thank you.
They are readily available at most autoparts stores. rockauto.com has them for less than $5. Good luck.
Thank you!@@petrocksgarage
Thank you so much@@petrocksgarage
@@hansibryan, no problem. Good luck.
@@jamesmetronorth9140, no problem. Good luck.
Need to change my right side today wish me luck
Good luck!
Too late now but do them both! The other is sure to follow.
how come I can't find any videos on the rear bearings?
I'm not sure. I find a bunch when I search for it. Have you seen my video on replacing rear diff seals & bearing? ruclips.net/video/VXEqzMVRRso/видео.html
@@petrocksgarage thanks. I’m having a real hard time finding a video to help me replace my rear hub & bearing on 2006 mustang v6
@@qpflicks, '06 Mustangs don't have rear hubs. They have rear differentials, axles and axle bearings.
My brake caliper bolts are so tight. I tried breaker bar and double wrench trick I can’t get them out
Try using some penetrating lube and/or heat? They may be rusted/seized. If you heat up the caliper, btw, you should flush your brake system when you are done. Boiled brake fluid doesn't work too well. I have a video on how to do it: ruclips.net/video/MPL7bpgcmVI/видео.html
@@petrocksgarage Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. I just needed a bigger breaker bar, and some PB blaster. Then I was able to turn the wheel all the way to the right and broke them loose. Just took another trip to harbor freight, but I got it done. Your video helped me a lot
@@kingssuck06 Glad to hear you got the job done. I'm glad my video helped you out.
But how do i remove a hub from a 2013 mustang gt 5.0?.. do i have to hammer it out?... need help asap
The hub for a 2013 is the same part as for this 2007. So it goes on the same way. You should only need to use a hammer if you've got some rust holding the thing on. 8 times out of 10 it should just slide off once you remove the big retaining nut. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage theres no nut tho its welded
@@Gumorisco11, I'm confused. This video is about the front wheel hubs. In another post on this video, you mention rear hubs. Mustangs up to '17 don't have rear hubs. They have solid rear axles. So I don't know what you are trying to do. Sorry.
@@petrocksgarage nvm i figured it out what i was trying to say was that i bought new calipers from wilwood front hubs didnt have to come out so the calipers were installed with out hassle but once when we moved on to the back the ebreak system was stuck with the caliper but we had to install a new ebreak which would go behind the rear hub so we didnt know how to take it of thought it would be like any other car unscrew the bolt then the hub would just come off .... but that wasnt the case... the differential had to.be opened theres 4 bolts inside so the entire back axle had to be taken off along with the hub which is welded on ....
@@Gumorisco11, ok, glad to hear you got it sorted out.
I took everything off exactly like the video and the new hub assembly is identical to the old one but the new one will not go on for some reason please help
I'm not sure what you mean by "will not go on". Will it not slide all the way onto the spindle? I'd start by trying to figure out what is blocking it. Maybe something silly/simple is obstructing it. Measure the inner diameter of the old and new hub on both inboard & outboard sides and make sure they are the same. Make sure there isn't any rust keeping things from lining up or going in all the way. Its really hard to give advise from my keyboard. I'd have to see it. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage yes it won’t go on the spindle 😓 idk what to do I’m gonna try again tomorrow. I slapped some wd40 on the spindle because it was a little rust and hopefully it works next time I try idk
@@sparkplug3109, double check the inner diameter of the old & new hub and make sure they are the same. Use a micrometer if you have one (they are pretty cheap at Harbor Freight). Can you get the old one back on? Just curious.
Also make sure there is no rust on the spindle shaft. Get some emory cloth and sand it off by hand making sure not to dig too deep or cause any flat spots. The flat mating surface, where the bolts spin into the spindle, should also be clear of rust. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage okay the inner hole of the new one was slightly smaller than the old one like you wouldn’t be able to tell by the naked eye. It was pretty close but I bought a new one and it slid on and now nomore noise thank you !!! But I do have to ask is it the same process for the rear ones because I need to change those as well but can’t find any videoes on it
@@sparkplug3109, thats great! I'm glad you got it sorted out.
Re the rear: up until a few years ago all Mustangs had solid rear axles. Those don't have wheel hubs like the front. They have axle seals & axle bearings. A few years ago Mustangs started coming with independent rear suspension which do have hubs like the front. So to answer your question it depends on what year your mustang was built.
I do have a video on how to change the rear axle seals & bearings that may help you out: ruclips.net/video/VXEqzMVRRso/видео.html Good luck.
You don’t torque your bolts back on?
Which bolts in the video are you referring to? I torque most everything in my videos, and mention the torque values along the way.
No thread lock?
On which part?
Pet Rock's Garage the axle nut.
That nut should have 221 ft/lbs of torque on it. You don't need thread locker with that much torque. It didn't come from the factory with thread locker either. Use a quality torque wrench to tighten it down and it should be fine.
I just do this on my car and it does have thread lock. ... Is why am asking. ... Apparently it could still vibrate loose even over 221 pounds feet on it.
If it makes you feel better to have thread locker on it, then go for it. It won't hurt anything I don't think. The service manual does not call for it though. Maybe someone else had put it on your car. Good luck.
My bearing slide off, but the back half is stuck on... lol
Yeah, that happens sometimes. You can rent a bearing splitter & 3-jaw puller from your local auto parts store and it should make short work of it. Good luck...
i guess new kits dont come with new spindle nuts. just got back from napa opened the box, no spindle nut...back to napa i go
Yeah, I'm not aware of a kit that does come with a new nut. Good thing you noticed before you had everything apart though.
@@petrocksgarage Got the Spindle Nut, took about 20 minutes to get the old bearing off. Hardest part was the rubber Hub. Everything else popped right off. Long story short my bearings were fine, my brake pads were just shot. Threw the new bearing on anyways. Thank you for making videos like this. Makes life for us regular people much easier
@@Tosh.O, glad to hear you got it sorted out. Sorry to hear you had to make a third trip to Napa for new brake pads.
You may Nevers lost a whell when running your car work for AAA for 12 years and lubricate was a main reason for loosing a wheel on the road
Thanks for the anicdotal evidence, given that most tow truck drivers don't investigate the problem that brought them to the scene. They just tow the vehicle and move on. But if you say so. Either way, use grease or don't use grease. It's up to you. Just make sure to tighten down the lug nuts well and you should be fine either way.
Did i have a stroke?
Im fighting with mine, damn bolt is stripped lol
Ouch. That sucks. Which bolt?
didnt know the neighbors where having a argument. (dogs).
Yeah, they can be a lively bunch. Especially when they see a squirrel in the back yard. Doesn't help that my garage isn't sound proof.
@@petrocksgarage lol yea no kidding
Dude sounds like Rick Sanchez
Nah, I'm not nearly drunk enough. His voice is also much more raspy than mine.
The one thing I encounter where I'm at is the fact that the spindle nuts are NOT a readily available part. I.e., my preferred auto parts guy cannot get them.
1) be sure to find them before you start the job, and
2) the l'il @#$&ers are expensive, @ about 1/3 or more the price of the bearings.
I'm not sure where your preferred parts guy is sourcing parts, but spindle nuts are $4 at rockauto.com and $10 at auto zone, which is considerably less than 1/3 the price of the hub.
@@petrocksgarage 1) I'm in Canada.
2) My preferred guy is a local business, been around for a long time. 3) Canadian Tire, box store hardware and auto parts, carries only 1 and it's for a focus AND it's $35.
4) Napa Canada carries them for $45. Each.
@@s6g2k, Wow... I just checked amazon.ca and its $30 for the nut. Thats outrageous. Maybe it has to be imported from the US or something? I wonder what a local ford dealer would charge. $200?
note to myself, look for a fat friend
Yeah, just don't tell them that you need them because they are fat or they might not be your friend for very long. :-)
I didn't see where he changed th bearings .... Just the hub.
The hub & bearing were an assembly. If you want to replace just the bearing you can press out the old one and press in a new one with various tools. You can also bring the hub assembly to a local shop and have them press it out/in. That is what I did on a buddies Ford Escort ZX2 (ruclips.net/video/1cdHBexgMqo/видео.html). Was pretty inexpensive too. Hope that helps.
I bet this guy shits anti-seize lol, sounds like AvE. Helpful videos tho
Thanks?
How old is your pet rock now? I do have a female one I'd like to breed.
My Pet Rock was a rescue, so I'm not sure of its age. I plan on taking it to the local Geologist to get an age estimate though. I'll let you know.
@@petrocksgarage You can probably get it carbon dated for free in most universities . Just a tip
@@Veikra, good idea!
DOES ANYONE HAVE INFORMATION ON DOING THE REAR?! LITERALLY NO PARTS OR EVEN VIDEOS. WTF
Because this generation Mustang doesn't have hubs on the rear. It's typically a solid Ford 7.5 or 8.8 differential (either open diff or limited slip diff). I have a video on how to replace the seals & axle bearings on a 7.5 & 8.8: ruclips.net/video/VXEqzMVRRso/видео.html
@@petrocksgarage ty sir
@@tufaznail, no problem.
Your over torquing it. One click or your torque tool needs to be recalibrated. Sounds like you don’t trust your torque tools.
What did I over torque? Where in the video?
Two clicks. Not necessary
Your adding 1 on or two to total torque stress.
@@JLSAUNDERS72, 2nd click barely moves, if at all, the bolt/nut being torqued. I also always use a torque setting in the middle of the range. So even if the bolt/nut did move it would still be in spec. I agree the second click is not necessary, but it also doesn't hurt (in my case). Hope that clears things up for you.
hit hammer on hammer is a great way to catch shrapnel. 10 out of 10 DO NOT RECOMEND
If you hit them together at full force, yeah. However, tapping them together like in the video has little to no danger.
@@petrocksgarage if you say so . buy a dead blow.
never lubricate nuts on wheel thats a rules all mecanics know
You've probably never been stuck on the side of the road trying to get the lug nuts off in an area that uses a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. I've been putting a little bit of grease on the studs for over 20 years, and my dad did for years before that, on our personal vehicles without any issues. Never had a lug nut come loose. Either way, if you don't want to apply grease you don't have to. Its entirely up to you.