Great video. Clear instructions, to the point, and nicely illustrated. I'm reasonably handy but have never done this repair, and your video was a great guide. Thank you!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I actually prefer the stock style spring clamps. Hoses will change diameter as they get hot & cold. So the screw clamps could be tight in the summer and loose in the winter. Of course it depends on how much of a temperature swing you have in your area between winter & summer. For me the swing is easily a 100 degrees F swing. The spring clamps will produce the same amount of clamping force regardless of temperature and/or diameter of the hose changes.
I had that same crack developing the top radiator hose on my late 2000s model Durango 4.7 engine the only problem I had taking it off is it did grip the metal on the ends of those radiator hoses to the block and then to the radiator itself when I went to twist it it twisted free but I just could not negotiate it out of that space but luckily for me right where the crack was is exactly where it's snapped in half so I was actually able to get it out of there rather nicely on the other hand the only thing I would recommend is to the people watching this video that he is doing it correctly but for my experience and what I did and my situation I went directly to the dealership and I bought the OEM specific part it was like $3 cheaper than the one that I would have bought it O'Reilly's and $5 cheaper than the one I would have bought it advanced Auto parts double check always double check on the OEM parts that are made specific for your car it already had that spring ready to go in it it even came with its own radiator cap brand new it was ready to go on my car
Wow, a part from a dealer is cheaper than one from an autoparts store, and came with all the hardware? Thats amazing! I don't think I've ever seen that. Thanks for the tip.
@@laurachavezmendoza8706, your motor is different. This video is on a 4.7L, not a 3.9L. IMS, your motor is closer to the 5.9L motor that also came in this era truck. But I do show how to change the bottom hose for a 4.7L in this video. I'd recommend getting the factory service manual for your year & model truck. It will have more info in it than you could imagine on how to maintain your new (to you) truck. They are available at your dealer, and can be found online too. Avoid Chiltons and Haynes manuals. They are garbage. Good luck.
Hey bud got a lot of help from your video and reply. By any chance do you know where to plug in the windshield washer pump cord? The one with a yellow cap. I knocked it loose and cannot find the outlet
@@mattkasperitis2232, do you mean the hoses in the front passenger side of the engine bay? The reservoir is part of the fan shroud. The pump(s) attached to the the side of the reservoir. There is a pretty good shot of the pumps and hoses around 9:51 in the video. If you have a dakota, you should only have one pump. Other than that, it should be the same. Hope that helps. Good luck.
Also I would like to make a comment that like the OEM radiator hose that I bought from the dealership for my car it already came with clamps on it so I didn't have to reuse the old ones especially when I took the old ones off of it one of those actually broken half as well that's another benefit of buying the OEM part is it's going to come ready to go on your car with everything you need on it the clamps that are on that from the one you take off if it's the original one on the car who knows how old those are they might break once you try to put them back on or they might break after being on for a while it's always good when you change these things to start out with a brand new clamp I mean why not you're putting on a brand new hose if anything you can put on a twist clamp instead of those ones they're always better put on two of them that way you've got to double clamped it's better than only having one
Thanks for the tip. If the clamps are rusted out then yes, definitely replace them. I have yet to have to replace one on one of my vehicles, unless I lost the clamp. I don't live in a high rust area thankfully.
@@petrocksgarage ya Iowa home state the winters here are something sometimes there unbelievable and it car just starts to rust and the hoses will just dryrote. I had a coolent leak just about every winter from dry rote
Great video. Clear instructions, to the point, and nicely illustrated. I'm reasonably handy but have never done this repair, and your video was a great guide. Thank you!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Good luck.
Nicely done 👍😁
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Awesome work. Thank you.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Nice vid my ac Delco hoses were an inch longer than my stock also i hate those clamps always replace with screw clamps
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I actually prefer the stock style spring clamps. Hoses will change diameter as they get hot & cold. So the screw clamps could be tight in the summer and loose in the winter. Of course it depends on how much of a temperature swing you have in your area between winter & summer. For me the swing is easily a 100 degrees F swing. The spring clamps will produce the same amount of clamping force regardless of temperature and/or diameter of the hose changes.
@@petrocksgarage that is very true I always check my screw clamps in the winter and I only use them on easy accessible places.
I had that same crack developing the top radiator hose on my late 2000s model Durango 4.7 engine the only problem I had taking it off is it did grip the metal on the ends of those radiator hoses to the block and then to the radiator itself when I went to twist it it twisted free but I just could not negotiate it out of that space but luckily for me right where the crack was is exactly where it's snapped in half so I was actually able to get it out of there rather nicely on the other hand the only thing I would recommend is to the people watching this video that he is doing it correctly but for my experience and what I did and my situation I went directly to the dealership and I bought the OEM specific part it was like $3 cheaper than the one that I would have bought it O'Reilly's and $5 cheaper than the one I would have bought it advanced Auto parts double check always double check on the OEM parts that are made specific for your car it already had that spring ready to go in it it even came with its own radiator cap brand new it was ready to go on my car
Wow, a part from a dealer is cheaper than one from an autoparts store, and came with all the hardware? Thats amazing! I don't think I've ever seen that. Thanks for the tip.
👍👍
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
How can I change the bottom hose is it the same process
Getting to know my dodge Dakota 3.9 liter 2000yr
@@laurachavezmendoza8706, your motor is different. This video is on a 4.7L, not a 3.9L. IMS, your motor is closer to the 5.9L motor that also came in this era truck. But I do show how to change the bottom hose for a 4.7L in this video. I'd recommend getting the factory service manual for your year & model truck. It will have more info in it than you could imagine on how to maintain your new (to you) truck. They are available at your dealer, and can be found online too. Avoid Chiltons and Haynes manuals. They are garbage. Good luck.
Do you have the car jacked when you remove the lower hose?
Its not required for the job, but it does make it easier to fit a pan underneath to catch the coolant that comes out.
Hey bud got a lot of help from your video and reply. By any chance do you know where to plug in the windshield washer pump cord? The one with a yellow cap. I knocked it loose and cannot find the outlet
@@mattkasperitis2232, do you mean the hoses in the front passenger side of the engine bay? The reservoir is part of the fan shroud. The pump(s) attached to the the side of the reservoir. There is a pretty good shot of the pumps and hoses around 9:51 in the video. If you have a dakota, you should only have one pump. Other than that, it should be the same. Hope that helps. Good luck.
Also I would like to make a comment that like the OEM radiator hose that I bought from the dealership for my car it already came with clamps on it so I didn't have to reuse the old ones especially when I took the old ones off of it one of those actually broken half as well that's another benefit of buying the OEM part is it's going to come ready to go on your car with everything you need on it the clamps that are on that from the one you take off if it's the original one on the car who knows how old those are they might break once you try to put them back on or they might break after being on for a while it's always good when you change these things to start out with a brand new clamp I mean why not you're putting on a brand new hose if anything you can put on a twist clamp instead of those ones they're always better put on two of them that way you've got to double clamped it's better than only having one
Thanks for the tip. If the clamps are rusted out then yes, definitely replace them. I have yet to have to replace one on one of my vehicles, unless I lost the clamp. I don't live in a high rust area thankfully.
@@petrocksgarage ya Iowa home state the winters here are something sometimes there unbelievable and it car just starts to rust and the hoses will just dryrote. I had a coolent leak just about every winter from dry rote
how could we contact to sponsor ?
Thank you, but I'm not in the market for sponsors at the moment.
@@petrocksgarage keep working on your channel sir, we will have a chance to work together !
It's as easy as a peanut butter and jelly bread sandwich
Yeah, pretty much.
Don't be such a crybaby alitte spay ain't going too hurt any other hose
Not really sure what you are talking about. Your comments in multiple of my videos are all over the place with little to no context.