The level of anxiety i go through when overfilling my engine just a little over the max level, thinking it's gonna explode any moment, this guy is a hero
Engine companys always have and extra space for this cases. The max level its below the real max till start to make foam at oil. Try to keep between those levels but it you fill it too much, doesnt matter. If its toooooo much, a syringe of the biggers ones and a flexible pipe that fits the tip of the syringe and you got it, without draining with the drain plug.
Alshimer Joe thanking for his support. The furthest leaning leftists I know won’t vote for him. The worst president the country has ever had. Asking for support, the balls, or just lack of cognitive function. Sad really, but he was always a piece of trash. When some magical event like death happens by October you know it was planned.
I've always ran 5 quarts in my 4.5 quart motor, at first it was because I didn't know. Now I just refuse to leave half a quart in a 5 quart bottle. My car at least does not care, hasn't cared for the last 40k miles. Because windage tray
Just remember this is a very simple , old school engine. Newer engines have more going on in them with smaller tolerances, so it would be still inadvisable to overfill any modern engine
😄 I was driving my Landrover home from Genova to Zurich once like driving on raw eggs because I overfilled it a fifth of an inch and could not release the drain screw on the road. Man man man - that video really makes that look rediculous.
For those who are looking for a problem and not seeing it, the problem is the foaming. As the oil level rises, the oil foams more violently, and this introduces air pockets to bearing surfaces inside the engine. On top of that, aerating the oil pump lowers functional oil pressure by introducing compressible air into otherwise non-compressible fluid, and makes it harder for the pump to maintain a prime while operating.
@karlwithak. the problem is the top end sizes. This is a well known way to "accidentally" blow someone's engine up. You over fill the fuck out of their motor.
Back in the 80’s when me and my mates started driving I dropped round my mates house, he had the bonnet of his Vauxhall Chevette open and was staring into the engine bay. By his feet were 3 5 litre Duckhams oil tins, he had already poured 10 litres of oil and was starting on the 3rd tin!!! Seems he was waiting until it reached ‘the top’ and then he’d know it was full!!! He wasn’t the brightest of my mates! I drained it out for him and introduced him to the dipstick!
I almost did the same on my mom's car. Luckily her boyfriend stopped me before hand. Growing up without a father is horrible for the kids, and I unfortunately lived it.
Haha I forgot to put the oil plug back on when I did my first oil change - my gf saw it come out as she was sitting on some steps and watcheed a good third of it pour out.
@@OGbqze Hey man, I grew up without a father and with the help if internet, I can do more on a car and other things than most people. And thanks to my grandpa as well.
@@OGbqze I feel sorry for you mate. Luckily I had, and ofc still have my father, and taught me many things... He is still my best friend ❤ wish you the best. Also when you make kids, just be there for them, every fucking day. Be blessed brother.
I seen what happens with a diesel engine in the army. While checking fluid levels in a large truck some DA grabbed a Hummer dipstick and thinking it belonged to the large truck used it. He couldn't add enough oil to make it show on the stick so he put 5 gallons of oil in the engine! When he cranked the engine motor oil forced its way into the cylinders and started burning it fuel. The engine took off at full speed out of control. Turning off the start switch did nothing because diesel engines don't require electrical spark. The engine ran full speed in park (thank God) with heavy heavy white smoke pouring out to the point you couldn't see the truck. Wide open it run until the engine blew up! What a sight it was!
The only way to stop a diesel runaway (when the motor starts burning the oil as a compression stroke, and ceases to run on diesel) is to starve it. You do this by either stuffing a rag or shirt etc into the air intake, or using CO² or a similar inert gas to starve the oxygen. There will come a point where a diesel motor will become so hot that the compression of the oil combined with the heat will maintain an inevitable cycle until there is not enough oil to burn, and it will seize any of the moving parts that cannot handle the rpm or heat. Either way, if you can catch a runaway before it really kicks off then you have a chance to stop the motor by choking it. I found this out the hard way, by overfilling my LC80 by about 3L, and it cost me a packet. Don't overfill your motor oil.
I was in Atlanta 25 years ago at the Lenox Mall and a lady parked next to us couldn't get her car started. I offered to have a look and raised the hood to check around. It sounded weird when cranking. I removed the oil fill cap and oil started to run out from the engine. The lady said her son had filled it to the top like he does with his push lawn mower. Can't imagine how many quarts (or gallons) the son put in the engine. I hadn't thought about this in a long time until now watching your video. Thanks for creating this visual example. Cheers!
2 things happen. 1. power is reduced due to the crank hitting the oil and picking it up. This is the reason race engines use dry sump systems or windage trays and scrapers. 2. The foaming action of the oil is increased not allowing air to dissipate out of the oil causing cavitation around the oil pump pick up tube, thus reducing oil pressure because of air in the system which reduces the film of oil on the bearings and causing extern wear. Garage 54 is what hot-rodding in the US use to be! Great and fun channel.
Wonder what would happen if engine totally drained again then refilled to normal level, would engine be fine again...? (after also replacing blown gaskets and such, of course). I wonder...
@@gregpohl412 If the engine doesn't get too badly-beaten and the main gaskets don't rupture something, and if the piston rings don't get damaged from playing oil-wall-pump or whatever...yeah, when you return it to normal oil levels, any excess should find its way out of the system over time and it should GENERALLY be okay. Turbos could suffer terribly from foamed oil, as could the motor if it gets pushed to high loads/high RPM with the overfilled oil, but by and large if you don't run it for too long and don't have it explode out of something, it SHOULD mostly be okay. It might sneak into the pistons though, maybe they might need cleaned out, or the spark plugs might want to be washed/replaced, dunno. Mostly it should be fine if it didn't get pushed TOO hard before it was corrected. Put in FIVE times the oil, or fill it to where the pistons can't keep oil out and you could 'hydro-lock' the engine with the excess oil, and THAT would be terri-bad for the motor. They don't like 'stopping when one piston runs into the wall called "Oil can't be compressed" and stops the motor mid-rotation. It's like stopping it by dropping a bolt into the piston. CLONK, just using oil as the bolt.
Hi, i just got my license last year and am completely new to cars. I owe a 2004 ram pickup truck and am trying to expand my knowledge in the universe of vehicle maintenance, but it can be hard to make sense of at times. Can you explain this in a way so a dummy could understand?
Exactly my thought. When oil has a lot of air in it the pressure drops. I keep my diesel with a extra 2-3qts in it because it leaks rly bad. I check it every day, & like the buffer.
@@michaelbenoit248 So is your overfill exactly what was the first demonstration... the difference between the high and low oil marks on the dipstick added as the buffer? So no harm?
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk , on an engine that big an extra 2-3qts won’t do much because it’s a Diesel that holds a lot of oil and pre-emissions so it won’t mess up the CCF or other stuff. Truck runs like a top. Anything more than 4qts is bad for it. I’ve fed oil to smaller gas engines to where it’s smoking blue. Modern engines won’t tolerate it. Only to full mark because of exhaust treatment stuff. Old school stuff it’s less sensitive.
@@michaelbenoit248 Just because it is a diesel does not mean it is big by default. I own a car with 1.25liter diesel engine which needs only 3.2liter (3.4quarts) oil. Adding 3 more qts is 80% overfill! Normally mechanics put 3.5liter oil as 3.5l is a standard oil can size in market and engines do burn oil over time anyways. I add another 0.3liter additives after I bring it home! That would make it 20% overfill and I was always having a question on safe overfill limit
@@shrujanamsyama9940 My diesel's min fill line is 15 US quarts with a max capacity to full at 17.5 quarts, I put in 18 quarts. Also has a windage tray and still sits 2 inches below block from tray. It also has a lower end brace. I could add another 5 quarts before it hits the crank counter balances.
Same i just overfilled by maybe third of a quarter and I was worried, but now I'm not bc my engine burns half a quarter every 500-600 miles anyway so eventually it will come to even level again 😂
I am amazed that he still stood near that revved engine when it was filled with oil to well beyond the merely ridiculous point!! Con rods, their caps, or even pistons HURT, ALOT when thrown through the block!! 😉😱
A clear oil pan and a cutaway in the block? Brilliant! I've never seen this in a functioning engine. Thank you. I was so concerned once when I added oil past the upper level limit on the dip stick that I siphoned the excess out. Now I realize that I need not have worried.
@@bobsaturday4273that's bullshit. Oil pressure is determined by the pump not by the oil volume. Unless you've filled the engine to the brim and the sealed case becomes pressurized. The pcv valve being open would relieve that pressure back into the intake anyway.
@@cheeseburger3209well, yesterday I changed the oil in my 2003 Honda Odyssey and I apparently added too much oil (less than ½ quart extra). Several hours later the engine started running quite roughly and hasn't stopped. It sounds a bit like oil may have gotten into the exhaust or somewhere that it's not meant to be. It happened because I couldn't see that the oil was above the next line on the dip stick in the lighting conditions while I was adding the new oil. When it started sputtering & running roughly I checked the oil, that's when I discovered it was over filled. I removed the excess ASAP, but the problem has not improved. It has been running perfectly since I got it; it's hard to imagine & believe that it's unrelated!
I agree with you I would have been concerned as well this Russian guys experiment is not really practical because it's just firing and spinning the pistons it's not converting horsepower and torque to the wheels guarantee if he put that engine in a car and tried to drive it would explode
HOw is it a hard question? You'll blow seals and gaskets due to the extra volume in the engine taken by excess oil and a smaller pressurization area. If you consider that a hard question, I sincerely hope you're in grade 5 :P (Edit - wow so many simps didn't get educated properly and cope by calling me a nerd and/or a smartass - Keep watching G54 and taking it seriously).
@@the_kombinatormechanic here. bro chill out, you will be surprised to know how many people don’t know a thing about cars let alone knowing about seals in an engine 😂 and I don’t blame them so it maybe a hard question to many
@@the_kombinatorAh yes, because everyone on this planet knows exactly how a engine works or is in grade 5. I totally forgot. Dudes like you are super suspect, do you know the anatomy of an Whale? No? Oh you gotta be in grade 3! What a senseless bs
You have relieved so much stress from so many people it's crazy (4.5M views = centuries of stress). My tiny engine takes 0.8 quarts, I put in 1. Was worried I'd need to drain/suck out 0.2 quarts. Now, I am glad it's got the extra oil.
This is why some people are more visual learners than text n books. I learned so much even though I had a basic understanding of how oil works. Thank you sir.
Yup. Big visual learner. I can retain AND recall the information better if It is shown to me while you are describing it. I can manage without visual cues but it’s harder for me to pick up information once the topic becomes more and more complex. Watching this was like finally picking out that stubborn booger in my nose. Feels great 😆
There's only so much you can learn by witnessing it yourself. At some point you have to fast track your learning by learning through others experience and following their knowledge in print
@@lollipop84858 You'd really think a normal engine builder would actually go through with the crazy things this guy has done? He's doing it for RUclips views, I did it to get paid by my customers. You think any customer would want their engine built with the crankshaft throws completely cut off, just to see what would happen? No sane machinist would endorse doing that.
@unjustifiedrecs Customers don't ask for crazy things like cutting off all the counterweights on a crankshaft, nor would I *ever* recommend it. But Garage 54 did it. He does things for views, I did things for customers.
I'm impressed that the polycarbonate pan and view-window didn't leak like crazy. Don't be tempted to think that it means that it's better to always have your engine oil to be a bit over full. A bit under full is better and less apt to cause problems with oil circulation. If you're going to be regularly running the machine at severe angles, maybe a little extra oil is better? However, at the very least, using a different oil pan with a deeper sump is probably needed
decades of conversations with professional mechanics, smart backyard mechanics, and me, who regularly works on my cars and friends' cars, and i've never been given a straight or consistent answer. i've always enjoyed this channel, but that was fucking fantastic. cheers, from me in Alaska to you in Siberia!
I went to UAF in Fairbanks. A friend and I experimented by putting different grades and types of oil outside overnight in the winter. The synthetic oil was the only one that never went totally frozen. However, it was still very viscous.
few points to keep in mind here. first of all that oil pan is molded from the outside making it bigger than the original. this is an old lada engine, nowhere near the tolerances of modern stuff. it is only running for a few minutes in these conditions. it is not moving around like a vehicle going up/downhill. and they are filling it up even after it is beyond critical levels for normal operation. in my career i have seen a few vehicles towed into the shop due to double filled oil. one because the lube tech drained the transmission on a subaru thinking it was the engine and didn't check the dipstick after filling the engine with more oil. that car made it about a mile before it started bucking like a horse and pouring smoke and oil out of the exhaust. another one was because a chevy trax owner thought the oil life % on the instrument cluster measured the oil level, and put 4 more quarts into the engine when it reached 5% and dinged at them. that one was just pouring a bunch of smoke and oil out of the exhaust. besides that i have seen some vehicles shoot the dipstick out, spray oil onto the exhaust manifold, and clogging the catalytic converters just from being a quart or two over.
@@canampilot9248 hey man. To me the Garage54 team is definitely not what I'd call "other people", as I know these people personally (I've met with them in person and continuously stay in touch with them), and I'm part of their team at this point, translating their shenanigans for a broader audience that doesn't speak Russian.
Unbelievable how reliable these engines are. This is great to know, sometimes we go a little overboard in the dipstick and it's good to know it is not quite that big of a deal
I just got back from changing the oil in my sister- in- laws 3.3 Nissan and put in 4 quarts out of the 5 quart jug she bought. Then I found for the first time in history a crankcase that held less than 1 gallon of oil. Almost every V8 I ever dealt with held 4 quarts, my little Ford Ranger 4 cylinders hold 5 quarts, but this big Nissan V6 is only supposed to have 3.5 quarts. So is the extra half quart going to cause the oil whipping up a frenzy? According to this video probably not. I would have to go over a couple whole quarts to even get close.
@@michaelszczys8316 Nissans seem to usually hold less oil than many of the other brands of cars for some reason, I don't know the reason why as I am not an engineer, I just turn wrenches.
A-1 video great presentation !! i've never seen anything like it ! I have started putting in 10 quarts instead of 5 quarts, the extra oil loosened the sludge around the block, totally plugged oil filter, valves started to clang & rattle, oil pressure dropped to zero, when I pulled oil filter, it was full & solid, I carry a spare filter now.. thanks mister !!
It truly depend on the engine design, oil pan capacity and the method of storing the oil (dry sump). Some engine have higher tolerance above the "max" mark while other engines may have a tolerance of less than 1L It is also good to note this engine was not moving like in a car. While braking or accelerating the oil get slushed around, at x2 the maximum the oil could have easily found it's way in the breather. It is best not to put in too much above the maximum.
A&P mechanic here. You’ll almost never find a dry sump land vehicle that doesn’t have the Ferrari Lamborghini Mercedes AMG ect logo on it. Most cars can’t even corner hard enough to starve the pump so most cars are wet sump. Now in aviation, for piston type aircraft, dry sump is the norm. So really you aren’t going to even need the wet sump dry sump variable because most people can’t afford a car that needs to have a dry sump in the first place.
Used to work at a rental company when I was younger, guy had a tfsi and oil light came on so he just added oil, 1L. Oil light stayed on so he added another 1L, oil light stayed on so he added another 1L (we assume, could have been more but English was bad so was translation so there was a barrier there but this is what he told us). By the time he got to us it went bang in the parking lot. Car had 1500 miles on it😅
@@AI-Records24 I worked at a jiffy lube years ago. This old womans husband had died, and she never pumped her own gas. Unsure of where the gas hole was, she opened the hood and filled then engine to the top with gas. As she was driving down the street the car began smoking and she came straight to us. She didnt tell us what happened, as she didnt know, just that it started smoking. The guy in the pit started yelling. It's full of gas! The fumes filled the building and we had to evac the customers, made sure nobody smoked and opened all the doors. There weren't any obvious signs of damage but who knows what happened after she left. Friggen gas hole.
Thanks for making this vid, I never was able to see inside the engine while running, But.... I have always slightly overfilled to allow for sump pan drop, rather have more than starve for oil. For those that don't think about it this way,. what you're seeing when excessively overfilled, is a mild version of hydro--locking. normally it's crankshaft seals that get pushed out.
Genuinely impressed by how much that custom made plastic sump was able to take! The pressure inside it must have been considerable! Oh and any worries I had about accidentally adding 1L too much oil on my next oil change are gone forever! Thanks 👌👍
@@khlua4590 Yes, thank you I know "Its not combustion chamber duh". But it still had the weight of 20+ L of oil on it with the centrifugal force of that being spun around at 5-6k rpm, so yeah I think there probably were some forces exerted on it. As was apparent by the way the oil sprayed out with force from the mating face when the gasket sealant eventually failed toward the end.
I had a 1972 Mazda 616 with 1600cc OHC engine. It held 4 imperial quarts (5 us quarts). I changed the oil every 2000 miles and the oil stayed clean. I went to a full service gas station, they used to check the oil at every fill up. The guy said it was low so I had him put in a quart. I only drove a few miles and the pressure build up in the engine blew the filler cap off and sprayed oil all over the engine. The filler cap was hard plastic with course threads that screwed solidly into the valve cover so the pressure build up had to be considerable.
Awesome demonstration. The true issue with over fill is not really the oil, but actually that air caused by agitation and the eventual failure of materials, the oil trying to find a path of less resistance to expand. The lesson learned hear is engines that have aged and uses up oil up faster because of moder engineering practices, you can just add 1.5X the normal amount and fill safe doing so.
Another 5L might make your engine run away if it's a diesel. What they haven't tested is getting that oil hot enough to produce oil vapour that goes into the intake (they stuck the breather into a bucket).
14:55 this IS the crucial part when overfilling Diesel Engines with oil it just spills the oil into the crankshaft Ventilation Back into intake -> RUNAWAY
unless it is a modern diesel with an "anti shudder valve" As long as that valve seals properly and there are no intake leaks post valve it will shut off real quick when you key off
@@StarHunter28 There is no good reason to reroute PCV on a diesel if you have no EGR system in place/active especially on a modern diesel with an oil/air separator inline with the PCV. Not to mention if you do a reroute dumped to atmosphere and do not run it in a good location where it will not freeze up... bad day if that ever plugs fully with ice
I was always afraid of the fact, when I pour in oil more than required at times and remained uneasy while driving ... But I must thank you for putting me at ease regarding pouring "bit" more than required ..... Thank you Man ..
Did a long haul trailer delivery in BC Canada, the trailer weighed in at 6500lbs, my truck is a 03 Dodge Ram Cummins 5.9 diesel engine auto trans 4x4. At last oil change I mistakenly overfilled by a 1/4 to 3/8 inch over on the dipstick. Under non load conditions that bit of overfill had no consequences. Under extreme load, pulling up a hundred or so 4% to 7% grades over 1500kms haul distance some oil seems to have been pushed out of rear mainseal..not good, but also not fatal as the seal has retained integrity since that long haul job. I would recommend that filling to the exact manufactures spec be followed ... no telling how many seal leaks it takes for the mainseal to be destroyed ... why is it that people think that their engine knowledge supersedes that of the engineers and technicians that design internal combustion engines,
This is a very good explanation and visualization of excess oil in the crankcase. I had expected oil to blow through the front and rear crankshaft seals.
I just got an oil change and was really worried because when i checked dip stick the oil was above the max line. This video puts my mind at ease. Thank you.
I got unlucky then. Brand new car engine seized due to overfill. I didn't find the need to check since I it was a brand new car. Damage was done after 9k when I saw smoke pouring out behind going up a hill and afterwards saw that it was massively overfilled. Thankfully warranty kicked in since it wasn't my fault. They said with the newer engines everything is tighter so it killed it.
@@assaulter99 We talking 9k miles? I know most new cars tell you to follow the recommended oil interval, but that's to pad their "cost of maintenance" numbers. I changed my oil on my brand new car at 2800. Dealership tried to tell me no. Told them to shove it, and do it.
There was french motorcycle in 1938, named Simca Sevitame. 2 cylinder upside down engine works literally in oil bath. Whole engine was mounted in aluminium box, filled with oil. Check out, who is intrested.
Mmmm, forbidden Mayo. It is the same process; hydrogenating the oil causing it to congeal, motor oil is designed to return to liquid but eventually... well you pull the dipstick out cold and it's covered in yellow mayonnaise and it's now time to dump the sump and flush all the old oil out.
I didnt expect this in my recommendation feed as I'm nearly clueless as a mechanic, but as a scientist, as a car owner and just overall curious person, that was really great! I always enjoy looking at the "inside of things" and it's fantastic that we can now make transparent engines to make demonstrations like this one. Super job from you guys, although you made me anxious near the end with that crazy amount of oil LOL 😂
Cavitation (air bubbles in fluid) means less oil gets to the top end (cam and lobes, valve stems, rocker arms, lifters, etc.), causing premature wear ,reducing horsepower and fuel efficiency because of the drag on the crank counterweights. It's why some engine builders use a windage tray to remove oils parasitic drag on the crank. Awesome video by the way.
There can be good reasons to thoughtfully overfill the oil. I had a ‘96 Mustang Cobra, and the DOHC heads needed a fair amount of oil, but the return passages were pretty small, so the heads ended up holding more oil when the engine was running. This wasn’t an issue on its own, but it did mean there was less oil in the crankcase when the engine was running. I always put in 6.5 litres of oil instead of the recommended 5.5, and immediately after running the engine the oil level was consistently at the full mark.
I think it’s a good way to flush the engine of gunk buildup….add an extra quart, take the car for a spin for 30 in the highway, take it back home and drain oil. I knew someone who did this with conventional oil every 3k miles and the car lasted over 30yrs
A buddy of mine had a Trailblazer with a 5.3 V8 engine. Those engines are notorious for the O-ring going bad at the top of the pick-up tube. It happens to be at the front of the engine, so during acceleration or on an incline, oil pressure would drop, since oil moves backward in those situations. We put a scanner on there that told us the realtime oil pressure in psi, then we jacked the front of the car up until pressure started to drop. We added an additional quart of oil to get the pressure back to normal, then we jacked it up some more until it dropped again. We added a second extra quart, then jacked it up again, and this time it was high enough that we didn't think the car would ever get on an incline that steep. We added the third extra quart to get the pressure back to normal. After that, we simply added the 3 additional quarts at every oil change. That was a long term test of about 70k miles for a total of 230k on the vehicle when he finally sold it. As long as that O-ring was submerged, it couldn't draw any air and the pressure stayed normal. That was only 3 quarts over full, and it was a bigger engine so I never expected any adverse effects. We could have dropped the front axle, pulled the pan and replaced that O-ring, but to add 3 quarts and get the exact same result just made sense. Apologies to all the OCD mechanics out there scoffing at the "rigged" fix, lol.
Thank you so much but, I had bought a new high flow oil point for my girl, 5.3 sierra, and I get 0 oil pressure on my mechanical reader garage I installed from napa haaha. If I Rev it wil go up and read a bit, but only read on idle when cold. The nw pump comes with that o ring, but seeing that I can do your trick, and how rotted my frame got from sitting I don't thing the pump jobs worth it now if I can just add a few quarts! Thanks a million!
A colleague of mine in University 20 years ago drove a trailblazer that died on lack of lubricant, guess this and the video content would have been exactly what could have saved his car…
Thank you , very informative. Knew all this by theory, but never got to see cavitation levels with overfilling and crank whip. Thank you! The only thing missing was a large oil pressure gauge so we could see how the cavitation show on the pressure levels.
Once the oil level drops below the "oil pick-up" also known as the inlet for the oil pump, no oil is circulated throughout the engine, many important parts begin to wear and heat from friction. Before very long, something fails catastrophically. A piston rod bearing, a crankshaft main bearing, the crankshaft itself, the overhead camshaft or its bearings. A piston could seize in a cylinder. Something horrible.
Fascinating experiment! Great idea with the transparent panels and pan. Thank you. They always tell us to be careful and never overfill. As this experiment proves it is not a big deal at all if a few more ml go into to the engine.
Garage 54, Wow ,always thought putting a bit extra oil in wouldn't over pressurise the motor, My commodore back in 1982 blew a sump gasket & I lost my oil & 3rd piston started knocking, bye bye motor. Kudos for the video ,you showed how overfilling a little doesn't hurt the motor. I didn't know this, great show & tell, keeps the people in the know.Thanks GARAGE 54, GREAT VIDEO....... ( AUSSIE JOHN)........
Best live report from inside an engine ever, thank you very much. if a volvo car gets the tiniest bit of engine oil too much, you get a big engine problem warning and big cost to fix, drain the oil and reset the error, unnecessary I think after I've seen your video.
Mechanic of 30 years old neighbor. Said he puts one quart extra in his own vehicles. In an engine like acura 3.7 v6 that burns oil ive over added oil it whole life so far and this is confirmed that its not hurting a thing. Better over than under way better
Thank you for the well done factual presentation. It is a relief that reasonable overfills are trivial. However, foaming at extreme overfill levels is very likely going to cause problems due to loss of viscosity and the introduction of air where air should not go.
It would more than likely show less in the oil pressurised system due to the air in the system. Maybe even cavitation in the oil pump. A pressure gauge would have been great to show this effect.
I overfilled the 4.8 in my truck by about half a quart once when I was 17 at 6000 rpm it decided to start spraying a mist of oil around the valve cover gaskets and continued to do so at high rpm for years until I replaced the heads in 2014. Truck is 20 years old now and still has the original cast iron exhaust manifolds and my engine bay is still rust free.
Very cool experiment with the various levels of oil. I was expecting the oil pan to blow off, but you guys did an excellent job with sealing your see through assemblies. Thanks for the educational video.
Another awesome experiment. I'm sure we've wondered about what would actually happen if the oil was overfilled, and these guys took it to the extreme in true garage 54 style. I've always heard that it would foam up and blow out the seals, and that it wasn't good for an engine to suck up a bunch of foam. Never seen it in person before though as I've never overfilled an engine like that. Definitely cool to see though, and it really scratches the itch of curiosity. You guys rock.👍👍
My car requires for 4.6 quarts of oil at an oil change and I always end up putting an entire 5 quart container in since I don’t want 0.4 quarts of oil lying around. Nice to know that small amount of extra oil doesn’t harm anything.
@@trm4life well considering I’ve been doing it since I got the car almost 3 years ago, put 60,000 miles and done 12 oil changes and nothing has happened, I’m going to continue doing it. Let me freak you out further, the car “calls for” 0w20 weight oil but I put 0w30 in winter and 5w30 during warm weather. That little extra viscosity I notice a quieter engine and there’s no noticeable loss in MPG
@seanguy9720 pcv. Positive crankcase ventilation. When you over fill, it goes into the combustion chamber. The Chevrolet equinox and Saturn vue, have a problem where the oil ends up in the intake manifold, and the engines die prematurely because of it.
@@trm4life Well, most things are engineered with margins of safety. Specially motor engines. I am not a mechanic, but from my ignorance, I am pretty sure those 0.4 are not making any difference.
I'm with you with my 2022 Veloster N. Problem with my car is I watch all the oil drain with it level on a lift, I put 5.2 quarts in as required, it reads half an inch above full on the stick. Been doing that since 1100 miles and have 15,200 miles now. Car has taken me from NYC to Key West and back and been up the Mount Washington auto road twice. In eco mode at 60mph I'm getting wayyyyyyy over the 28mpg highway number (35mpg). So there's no drag from the oil. I'm gonna keep it up.
As others have noted the issue is foaming and air bubbles in the system. But theres another that i found out in the oilfield. Old oilfield engines, fairbanks&morse/bell, motors, don't have pumps, they are whipped through the engine by a flipper on the connecting rod cap. That mechanical whipping not only airates the oil and foams it but it breaks it down ALOT faster and sludges up the engine. I now use good diesel oil or thick oil in the motors. Synthetic has promise but only in motors that have new sleeves and new piston and seals. I have seen it work in one motor. Otherwise, on arrow/connentinal motors it dose not matter since those makes have oil pumps.
I read many years ago if you take the normal oil level and lower your oil level down by one quart. Your engine pick up an oil pressure and horsepower. I didn't do this because of the horsepower because it would be a very minimal gain. I did this test to raise oil pressure at 700 RPMs a low idle. It worked it raised the oil pressure when I dropped the oil level by one quart. And I noticed once before with the normal oil level. I went a little bit higher in oil level a quart and it lowered the oil pressure even more at an idle. And what I did for safety when I lowered my oil level by one quart. I installed a cheap low oil pressure Summit Racing low oil pressure shut off safety switch. I want to start it up after it's been sitting I have to hit the override button. The engine builds oil pressure then I hit the override button and the engine will fire up. Too bad this test didn't have an oil pressure gauge and it would have showed how low the oil pressure was the higher he raised the oil level. The higher the oil level is too with any engine the more bubbles it makes. All bubbles don't make solid oil pressure it drops oil pressure. And when I build an engine right before it's ready to fire up. I feel the engine full of oil all the way to the top of the valve cover. When you do this it totally oils everything and the engine will not turn over it's literally hydrolocked. It's the same process I do when I'm storing a complete engine and I also feel the cylinders up by spinning the engine over and filling the spark plug holes with oil too. I use a funnel and a clear vinyl hose. This is the only way to store an engine so you don't have any rust. Metal can't trust when it's fully submerged in oil. If it's an old engine and needs to be rebuilt or knocking use preferably use diesel oil. And if it's a nice engine of course use new oil. On the street or the strip yanking the car around. The low oil pressure switch has never shut off the engine. I also have a fail-proof water temperature switch also set at 190 degrees the engine will shut off and it did once. It saved me a lot of time and money my shutting off early and not blowing head gaskets are cracking heads from getting too hot. Having the safeties on any engine is worth its weight in gold. Sure I'm like most guys and the business I can fix anything but I don't want to it's too much time and money. I'd rather build something or fix something and it lasts forever. If we only have these sensors on all vehicles we would save so much time money and resources. I've tried to sell it to people over the years but they're just too tight. They don't think the biggest problem out there overheating will happen to them. They would rather save back then a few hundred dollars. Then back then a 1,000 - 1,500 to repair it. Not including a lot of time and money to fix. But today's cost is several thousands of dollars and a lot more time. And most people can't even have it fixed because they can't do without their car that long so they have to buy another car or catch rides. If they don't have a backup car. They don't put the safeties on everyday cars because they want you to buy more. They put the safeties on commercial vehicles.
This is exactly why I love youtube, I wouldn't search for this kinda stuff but watched the whole thing when algorithm suggested it. Really enjoyed you pushing it to the limit and arguably, past it 😄👏. Great video, thank you sir.
This is an awesome demonstration. I would love to see this done again but with a windage tray. Also, with a race oil with the anti-foaming properties. I would also like ro see this test again with a high flow oil pump to test the theory of sucking the pan dry. Also, add a pressure gauge to see the difference.
WHEN WORKING FOR THE SANTA FE RAILROAD IN AN LOCOMOTIVE SHOP, I ONCE SAW TWO GUYS START AND GENERAL ELECTRIC LOCOMOTIVE WITH ALL THE CRANKCASE COVERS OFF OF ONE SIDE! AN EARLIER CREW HAD REMOVED THE COVERS FOR AN CRANKCASE INSPECTION. THESE GUYS FAILED TO DO AN WALK AROUND INSPECTION BEFORE STARTING AND WHEN IT LIT OFF , IT SLUNG A LOT OF OIL OUT! HOWEVER IT WAS AN GREAT SHOW WATCHING THE INTERNAL PARTS AT WORK! I COULD HAVE WARNED THEM, BUT THEY WERE SOME “. KNOW IT ALL” TYPES AND DECIDED TO WATCH THE FUN, INSTEAD!!😅😅😅😅 KEEP THEM ROLLING BROTHERS!! 👍👍
No he just want all the old people to read easier!!!! Its funny how things go hey tou think you the man then things goes south and next thing everyone need to help you 😂
Thank you for yet another educational video! I highly appreciate your videos with see-through covers. May I suggest the following slight improvements: attach an oil temperature and oil pressure gauge because it would be interesting to see the effect on these parameters. Secondly, why not draw a couple of lines on the oil pan? A thick green line for normal oil level, a dotted black line for 1/2 litre above and full black line for 1 litre above. A yellom line at minimum oil level and a red line at 1 litre below minimum level. Thanks once again and keep up with the good work!
I really appreciate the effort put into this video just to teach the viewing audience (not just following someone doing their hobby!). THANKS SO MUCH!!
My 7.3 leaks abt a quart every 200 miles, so within 5K miles I end up “changing” the oil by topping it off abt 2x. I still change the oil and filter at 4-5K just to get junk out of the motor, but I could probably just change the filter, & keep towing it off but that’s kinda wrong.
I have an 01 civic that burns and leaks enough oil that Ill go from full on the dipstick to a little below the fill line in the time it takes for a tank of gas. Havent done an oil change. 25,000km later it still looks brand new, clean enough its hard to see on the dipstick lol
Good to know you can overfill oil a little bit and not have anything too bad happen. I still wouldn't put in double what they recommend or anything but I wont stress about an extra quart or something now. Of course this all depends on the engine as well as they're not all the same.
That was also my take away point, but worth remembering that you will lose fuel efficiency even with an extra cpl quarts, as the oil feed wheel has more load on it.
Especially for engines that eat oil. How many times I was so worried about putting too much in vs how much ran out, I don't have to worry about letting one go hungry again :)
I was happy to see this video, I had a oil change and the shop put all of my 5 litre jug in. I was a little concerned but it was something I always did my entire life.
@@wobblyboost with my 2022 Veloster N, the book says 5.2 quarts. I have the car level on a lift, I drain it all out, I put 5.2. Qt in, it reads .5" higher than max. Same with oil changes at 1100 miles, 5000, 8500, and 13500. Dipstick may just be wrong... Hyundai lol. Car is rated for 22 city / 28 highway mpg. I'm getting 36mph at 60mph in eco mode. So level is ok. No parasitic loss. Probably just the stick.
Issues with over filling your engine oil: * Reduced efficiency and engine performance as crankshaft and other components put more energy to splash and pump higher quantity of oil * Over pressure on seals and other components causing leakage and seal failure * Foaming reduces the lubrication causing reduction in life of bearings and mating surfaces in the long term * Cavitation and flashing of engine oil when crank and other components hit the oil at high velocities causing mechanical damage to engine components
I had this happen to my first car back in the day. A quick oil change place put 9+ quarts of oil in my 4 quart car and didn't notice. Blew out every seal and the dipstick. I had oil splattered in the front wheel wells and all over the hood.
Early engines did not have oil pumps and instead relied on "splash oiling" It worked but there were problems if you were on a long up hill/down hill grade which left the oil pooled to one end of the block and not able to splash the full length of the crank.
Thank you. This takes away any future anxiety about overfilling my engine with oil by half a quart. From now on, if my car is anywhere near Minimum, I'll add a full quart.
@Garage54 .... if you redo the test, you will thank me!! It will be a lot of fun!! That oil foam gets into the crank and rod bearings, and actually causes the oil film to break down, and you will spin a rod bearing or crankshaft bearing!! How do I know, I had two people do it already. Engine oil has detergents, and it foams; think Dawn soap when you shake it. The oil lifting up the engine block is allowing more air to mix into the oil. You didn't run long enough to have any detrimental effect......yet!! Try running the engine at a constant rpm when you see the air bubbles in the oil, and you will have that engine seize up!! Redo the double fill 6:30 mark, and leave the engine run above idle for at least 20 to 25 mins at constant rpm when you see air bubbles. The issue comes as people drive 10 plus minutes and the motor is above idle so air is mixing with the oil, so the test stand running for a few minutes isn't reflective of what can happen.
Why most racing oils have very low calcium levels, as well as little to none of any other detergents. 😉 That, and the oil is changed LONG before there is much dirt, or combustion blow-by allowed to get into the oil in the first place.
Interesting demonstration, yet you should not risk health for it. You should definitely connect an exhaust extraction or at least open all doors and maximize air exchange. Have a look at 16:40 - horrible, blowing the exhaust into the room and at the camera man. While exhaust especially enriched by burnt oil would not considered healthy, additionally please remember the danger of carbon monoxide poisoning.
My mechanic has told me stories about engines having been filled twice by mistake at an oil change. One blew all the oil seals and the other blew its block.
@@wobblyboostthe Ladas are exponentially more common, though that's assuming you are in the soviet sattelite regions. even so, the Mercedes and hiluxes are rapidly winding up in junkyards to get crushed.
@@LuwiigiMaster Oh i'm in Australia (little island in south asia 😁), I don't doubt Ladas would outlive them, but was just going on the interesting fact that older model 'luxes and mercs are extremely popular in arab regions, africa, sth americas and most of asia as they too are highly reliable and repairable. Don't get me wrong, modern mercs and most of the toyota range will be lucky to live past 5 years, are expensive to repair and parts hard to source or reproduce. Interestingly a lot of Ladas are being sourced for purchase by Russian companies in UK and europe to satisfy a need for parts recently, due to 'the troubles'; so many Ladas are getting to return to mother russia again.
Don't overfill the engine oil. Reason 1: Anything spinning in a fluid will slow the object that is spinning. You're making the engine work harder for no reason. Reason 2: The oil is foaming. You can't lubricate an engine with air. Reason 3: Drastically increased oil degradation due to heat and contact from the sheering effect. Just don't do it.
@@omnicave3183 Don't listen to the idiots in the comments. You've wrote a good summary of what NOT to do to an engine. Some people hate if somebody's smarter than them.
When the oil foams and turns milky, it becomes compressible and oil pressure is lost to the bearings - that's the main concern - it was more foamy at 2x than at max, so probably already loosing pressure, but you would have needed a gauge to measure - thanks for sharing!
In the mid 90’s I stopped to help a poor woman with car problems. I asked her to pop the hood and everything was dripping oil. I opened the air cleaner on the carburetor and it was full of oil. I asked her if she had put oil in, and she told me her husband had instructed her to “put some oil in the car before you go to work…”. She told me she “filled it up”. She had just kept putting oil in until she couldn’t get any more in. I told her that her best bet was the oil change joint two blocks away. I still wonder how she made out.
I have a Ram 1500 V8, and it calls for 7 quarts of oil. I always use Royal Purple synthetic 5w 20. I always before Changing my oil Bring Up Operating temperature this way When I drain the oil I can get the most out. Putting the 7 quarts puts the oil Level right at the top or a little over the Max line. Great video. 🇺🇸
Excellent. Thank you for this fine and great video. So many people are afraid of 1/2 quart too much. This shows that 1/2 quart is not a problem. Sharing this with many people.
Now I know how oil inside the engine moves! Wow! This one is for real and not animation, this is the first time I saw how it moves for real, thanks for this good guy, because of that I will subscribe to your beautiful channel. By the way, I'm watching here in the Philippines 🇵🇭.
I think veritasium or smarter every day did a video where a guy build an engine out of clear plastic, and you could see how it all worked with the oil. I think it was smarter every dwy
Excellent demonstration, thank you. I immediately sent this to both my sons. They need to know this just as much as they know how their phones operate. 😊
too much oil makes those large bubbles that will likely result in intermittent oil pressure on the rod bearings. But adding a little bit more over the max limit doesn't seem to cause any problems. A little foaming occurs anyway, also depending on the antifoam additives
It all depends on the engine construction. Some are a lot less tolerant than the Lada engine used here. So it's most safe to stay within the min to max spectrum. A little to much might not be the end of the engine, but with modern engines I would not take the chance.
Years ago i had a honda accord 1300, the oil pump drive sheared off (common problem). I filled the sump with maybe three times as much oil and did another 20k miles with no oil pump. Worked fine.
That's the Henry Ford splash lube system for the Model T....if you went uphill for too long the front mai bearing ran dry.... so the modern way to stop that is a catch funnel added as an aftermarket piece at the rear interior of the engine block and a small oil tube running forward so the accumulated oil in the funnel still lubes the front bearing while going uphill....
Yeah... but that's not a fair comparison, Honda's take a beating. I was NEVER nice to mine and put over 100k miles on it. After it was already past 200k miles.
karlwithak. Riiight, because they were so very efficient. Why use energy to power your drivetrain when you can just waste it pointlessly stirring a vat of oil. If only all the world's engineers had just listened to you, the know nothing in the cheap seats. All those dry sump race engines are just a waste of time folks, Karl the genius has the real oil, putting the wind in windage.
My son was on a road trip, close to a hundred miles from home, remembered he forgot to do the 5000 mile oil change, so found a shop to change it befor heading home. On the way home it wasn't running as it should. Checked the oil, it was way over filled, figured they forgot to dump the old oil and added the new on top. We drained it, it was thick, all the oil was a thick foam and in volume, about triple the proper amount. After a month the drained oil was still the same, still foam. I was surprised something didn't break, a piston rod or something, but motor was fine.
you dont have to change it every 5k miles on the dot, you probably did more damage (engine wear) to the engine from this than if you had let it go to 10k or 15k miles with out an oil change. something they didn't cover in this vid is oil doesn't wear out, it's latterly millions of years old, the reason they want you to change it every 5k is the additives can get saturated, but depending on what type of fuel you use and how hard you run your engine it can be over 20k before it's really saturated. 5k is just playing it safe for people that abuse the engine, by not letting it idel for 30 sec on a cold start or worse giving it high revs on start up. when you do an oil change and the old oil is still clear, it's no where near "needing" an oil change.
@@robgilmour3147 Oil gets polluted with carbon, combustible gases & unburned gasses and loses its lubricating properties. In most all situations changing the oil at 5k miles is the right thing to do and shouldn't go much over whether they abuse their car or not
@@seatime674 yes and the reson the oil can pick up the carbonate and particulates is largely do to the addtives in the oil, oil with out addtives stays clean looking far far longer than with out. back in the 40s and 50s they didn't put addtives in and you often never had to change the oil, only doing so when you had to overhall the engine, witch was much more often because all that crap wasn't being removed by the oil. we still have marine engines and mining engines today that we don't change the oil ever, (or till overhall) they just have bigger oil sumps and more robust filtration systems, 10,000 hours run time (200k+ miles) and the oil still lubricates just fine. we will add oil and on some of the really big engines they often test the oil viscosity and detergent levels but change the oil nope, only if something is seriously wrong it the test results. I'm not saying its a bad thing, changing the oil every 5k is way cheaper than having to do an engine overhall every 50k like they used to, we rarely do engine overhalls any more and its largely do to additives and oil filters keeping the engine clean.
@@robgilmour3147 You're talking very old school engines and outdated theories. New engines today are extremely fine-tuned with very tight tolerances with super high compression. When gas is burned it creates a lot of garbage that pollutes the oil and loses its lubricating properties. End of story. There are many videos that show people that do 10 and 15,000 mile oil changes their engines need to be overhauled way sooner than later studies show after 5,000 MI twice the wear starts happening then three times the wear soon after.. It's a 100% fact
I want to thank you for doing this for now I can really see what to much oil really does do to a engine for others would say but none has shown it like your doing now... Thank You very much😊
A friend of my relatives drives an old Saab, last summer he checked the dipstick when we were around. It had oil to about 60% of the entire stick! To which he said "Oh I better fill her up". Apparently he had been driving this way for about 5 years without oil changes, just topping the engine up with an excessive amount of engine oil. I showed him the Min-Max part of the dipstick and suggested to drain & replace the oil and have the correct amount of oil in, being stubborn he said "Well I've been driving like this for 5 years and it works just fine".
What really destroys an overfilled engine is the actual oil foam, it would be great if there was a camera capturing how much of those air bubbles where sucked by the pickup tube instead of oil, even with that milky microfoam you have huge ammounts of air on the galleys, rod bearings, etc, would be nice to see the aftermath.
A pressure gauge right on screen next to the transparent sump would have shown exactly that... a drop as the air entrained in the oil is compressible.... so lower overall oil pressure as the foam increased....
No what would actually kill the engine would be the crankcase breather as the oil would be sucked back into the combustion chamber and hydro lock the engine, the crankcase breather was disconnected as you saw, if it had not been the engine would have been destroyed way before.
This is great stuff! Real information without somebody's dog or a "for humor" or "for drama" relative getting in the way. I just subscribed and I'm looking forward to more videos. Thank you for teaching me something!
I JUST CHANGED MY OIL , I ADDED 10 GALLONS OF OIL THEN ANOTHER FEW GALLONS FOR THE HELL OF IT! ENGINE IS SUPER QUIET! OIL IS SHOOTING OUT OF THE AC VENTS , BUT ITS GOOD FOR THE SKIN MY WIFE SAYS …. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO !!!
The level of anxiety i go through when overfilling my engine just a little over the max level, thinking it's gonna explode any moment, this guy is a hero
Engine companys always have and extra space for this cases. The max level its below the real max till start to make foam at oil. Try to keep between those levels but it you fill it too much, doesnt matter. If its toooooo much, a syringe of the biggers ones and a flexible pipe that fits the tip of the syringe and you got it, without draining with the drain plug.
Alshimer Joe thanking for his support. The furthest leaning leftists I know won’t vote for him. The worst president the country has ever had. Asking for support, the balls, or just lack of cognitive function. Sad really, but he was always a piece of trash. When some magical event like death happens by October you know it was planned.
I've always ran 5 quarts in my 4.5 quart motor, at first it was because I didn't know. Now I just refuse to leave half a quart in a 5 quart bottle.
My car at least does not care, hasn't cared for the last 40k miles. Because windage tray
Just remember this is a very simple , old school engine. Newer engines have more going on in them with smaller tolerances, so it would be still inadvisable to overfill any modern engine
😄 I was driving my Landrover home from Genova to Zurich once like driving on raw eggs because I overfilled it a fifth of an inch and could not release the drain screw on the road. Man man man - that video really makes that look rediculous.
For those who are looking for a problem and not seeing it, the problem is the foaming. As the oil level rises, the oil foams more violently, and this introduces air pockets to bearing surfaces inside the engine. On top of that, aerating the oil pump lowers functional oil pressure by introducing compressible air into otherwise non-compressible fluid, and makes it harder for the pump to maintain a prime while operating.
With no windage tray in the pan I was wondering if foaming was going to be an issue.
there's also the added drag when the crank touch's the oil
@karlwithak. the problem is the top end sizes. This is a well known way to "accidentally" blow someone's engine up. You over fill the fuck out of their motor.
@karlwithak.that oil needs to be non compressable though. Foamed oil will not stop metal to metal contact in bearings.
Right but apparently you need to triple the volume of oil in an engine before that becomes an issue. So 1qt over is not a concern.
Back in the 80’s when me and my mates started driving I dropped round my mates house, he had the bonnet of his Vauxhall Chevette open and was staring into the engine bay. By his feet were 3 5 litre Duckhams oil tins, he had already poured 10 litres of oil and was starting on the 3rd tin!!! Seems he was waiting until it reached ‘the top’ and then he’d know it was full!!! He wasn’t the brightest of my mates! I drained it out for him and introduced him to the dipstick!
I almost did the same on my mom's car. Luckily her boyfriend stopped me before hand. Growing up without a father is horrible for the kids, and I unfortunately lived it.
Haha I forgot to put the oil plug back on when I did my first oil change - my gf saw it come out as she was sitting on some steps and watcheed a good third of it pour out.
@@OGbqze Hey man, I grew up without a father and with the help if internet, I can do more on a car and other things than most people. And thanks to my grandpa as well.
@@OGbqze I feel sorry for you mate. Luckily I had, and ofc still have my father, and taught me many things... He is still my best friend ❤ wish you the best. Also when you make kids, just be there for them, every fucking day. Be blessed brother.
You introduced the dipstick to the dipstick? Wasn't called Rodney was he? What a plonker.
I seen what happens with a diesel engine in the army. While checking fluid levels in a large truck some DA grabbed a Hummer dipstick and thinking it belonged to the large truck used it. He couldn't add enough oil to make it show on the stick so he put 5 gallons of oil in the engine! When he cranked the engine motor oil forced its way into the cylinders and started burning it fuel. The engine took off at full speed out of control. Turning off the start switch did nothing because diesel engines don't require electrical spark. The engine ran full speed in park (thank God) with heavy heavy white smoke pouring out to the point you couldn't see the truck. Wide open it run until the engine blew up! What a sight it was!
could have opened the oil drain plug
@@JackSpratt-yg1ojAnd crawl under a runaway diesel engine?
The only way to stop a diesel runaway (when the motor starts burning the oil as a compression stroke, and ceases to run on diesel) is to starve it.
You do this by either stuffing a rag or shirt etc into the air intake, or using CO² or a similar inert gas to starve the oxygen.
There will come a point where a diesel motor will become so hot that the compression of the oil combined with the heat will maintain an inevitable cycle until there is not enough oil to burn, and it will seize any of the moving parts that cannot handle the rpm or heat.
Either way, if you can catch a runaway before it really kicks off then you have a chance to stop the motor by choking it.
I found this out the hard way, by overfilling my LC80 by about 3L, and it cost me a packet.
Don't overfill your motor oil.
Idk why but your story made me lol way too hard 😂
Article 15! 😡
I was in Atlanta 25 years ago at the Lenox Mall and a lady parked next to us couldn't get her car started. I offered to have a look and raised the hood to check around. It sounded weird when cranking. I removed the oil fill cap and oil started to run out from the engine. The lady said her son had filled it to the top like he does with his push lawn mower. Can't imagine how many quarts (or gallons) the son put in the engine. I hadn't thought about this in a long time until now watching your video. Thanks for creating this visual example. Cheers!
Crazy how stupid people are
OMG.
Hey Mom I am done changing your oil.....
The same happens when you overfill oil in air compressor not very keen on starting.
Probably didn't change it but “topped“ it off thinking they were doing a favor lol
Glad you survived!
2 things happen. 1. power is reduced due to the crank hitting the oil and picking it up. This is the reason race engines use dry sump systems or windage trays and scrapers. 2. The foaming action of the oil is increased not allowing air to dissipate out of the oil causing cavitation around the oil pump pick up tube, thus reducing oil pressure because of air in the system which reduces the film of oil on the bearings and causing extern wear. Garage 54 is what hot-rodding in the US use to be! Great and fun channel.
Wonder what would happen if engine totally drained again then refilled to normal level, would engine be fine again...? (after also replacing blown gaskets and such, of course). I wonder...
@@gregpohl412 If the engine doesn't get too badly-beaten and the main gaskets don't rupture something, and if the piston rings don't get damaged from playing oil-wall-pump or whatever...yeah, when you return it to normal oil levels, any excess should find its way out of the system over time and it should GENERALLY be okay. Turbos could suffer terribly from foamed oil, as could the motor if it gets pushed to high loads/high RPM with the overfilled oil, but by and large if you don't run it for too long and don't have it explode out of something, it SHOULD mostly be okay. It might sneak into the pistons though, maybe they might need cleaned out, or the spark plugs might want to be washed/replaced, dunno. Mostly it should be fine if it didn't get pushed TOO hard before it was corrected.
Put in FIVE times the oil, or fill it to where the pistons can't keep oil out and you could 'hydro-lock' the engine with the excess oil, and THAT would be terri-bad for the motor. They don't like 'stopping when one piston runs into the wall called "Oil can't be compressed" and stops the motor mid-rotation. It's like stopping it by dropping a bolt into the piston. CLONK, just using oil as the bolt.
Hi, i just got my license last year and am completely new to cars. I owe a 2004 ram pickup truck and am trying to expand my knowledge in the universe of vehicle maintenance, but it can be hard to make sense of at times. Can you explain this in a way so a dummy could understand?
In mother Russia we fill engine full of oil. If not enough power we get bigger engine.
Race cars use dry sumps because of inertia. During turns oil goes away to sides and pump cant pick it up.
Needed an oil pressure gauge to show pressure drop
Exactly my thought. When oil has a lot of air in it the pressure drops. I keep my diesel with a extra 2-3qts in it because it leaks rly bad. I check it every day, & like the buffer.
@@michaelbenoit248
So is your overfill exactly what was the first demonstration...
the difference between the high and low oil marks on the dipstick added as the buffer?
So no harm?
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk , on an engine that big an extra 2-3qts won’t do much because it’s a Diesel that holds a lot of oil and pre-emissions so it won’t mess up the CCF or other stuff.
Truck runs like a top. Anything more than 4qts is bad for it. I’ve fed oil to smaller gas engines to where it’s smoking blue. Modern engines won’t tolerate it. Only to full mark because of exhaust treatment stuff. Old school stuff it’s less sensitive.
@@michaelbenoit248 Just because it is a diesel does not mean it is big by default. I own a car with 1.25liter diesel engine which needs only 3.2liter (3.4quarts) oil. Adding 3 more qts is 80% overfill! Normally mechanics put 3.5liter oil as 3.5l is a standard oil can size in market and engines do burn oil over time anyways. I add another 0.3liter additives after I bring it home! That would make it 20% overfill and I was always having a question on safe overfill limit
@@shrujanamsyama9940 My diesel's min fill line is 15 US quarts with a max capacity to full at 17.5 quarts, I put in 18 quarts. Also has a windage tray and still sits 2 inches below block from tray. It also has a lower end brace. I could add another 5 quarts before it hits the crank counter balances.
I overfilled mine accidentally a bit over max last week and I was worrying. And now this video comes across 😂👍
Same i just overfilled by maybe third of a quarter and I was worried, but now I'm not bc my engine burns half a quarter every 500-600 miles anyway so eventually it will come to even level again 😂
@@elnewbie2611 Same here 😂 So better a little too much than not enough one time...
😂😂😂@@elnewbie2611
you should be fine. Now if you dump 2-3 extra quarts into the engine then we got a problem.
@@elnewbie2611no no, don't overfill, the oil will get into the chamber if you overfill.
I laughed when he kept saying “more oil”, after what I thought was beyond the fill capacity. He’s a mad scientist. Love his videos 😊
I am amazed that he still stood near that revved engine when it was filled with oil to well beyond the merely ridiculous point!!
Con rods, their caps, or even pistons HURT, ALOT when thrown through the block!! 😉😱
We need more cow bell😅
Problem: "We got an oil leak."
Meanwhile in Russia: "More oil."
E320 Diesel Mercedes. Forum said 8.5 litres at oil change. Now oil light comes on at hiway speeds. Thinking a litre xtra not a big deal.
Yes you like it, oh but you know this guys also sponsoring War in Ukraine?
A clear oil pan and a cutaway in the block? Brilliant! I've never seen this in a functioning engine. Thank you. I was so concerned once when I added oil past the upper level limit on the dip stick that I siphoned the excess out. Now I realize that I need not have worried.
yes you should have worried ! the excess oil causes high oil pressure that blows out your seals
@@bobsaturday4273that's bullshit. Oil pressure is determined by the pump not by the oil volume. Unless you've filled the engine to the brim and the sealed case becomes pressurized. The pcv valve being open would relieve that pressure back into the intake anyway.
@@cheeseburger3209well, yesterday I changed the oil in my 2003 Honda Odyssey and I apparently added too much oil (less than ½ quart extra).
Several hours later the engine started running quite roughly and hasn't stopped. It sounds a bit like oil may have gotten into the exhaust or somewhere that it's not meant to be.
It happened because I couldn't see that the oil was above the next line on the dip stick in the lighting conditions while I was adding the new oil.
When it started sputtering & running roughly I checked the oil, that's when I discovered it was over filled.
I removed the excess ASAP, but the problem has not improved.
It has been running perfectly since I got it; it's hard to imagine & believe that it's unrelated!
I agree with you I would have been concerned as well this Russian guys experiment is not really practical because it's just firing and spinning the pistons it's not converting horsepower and torque to the wheels guarantee if he put that engine in a car and tried to drive it would explode
Actually it's the transmission fluid that your better off with too little than too much.
This man answering the hard questions in life 🍻
HOw is it a hard question? You'll blow seals and gaskets due to the extra volume in the engine taken by excess oil and a smaller pressurization area. If you consider that a hard question, I sincerely hope you're in grade 5 :P
(Edit - wow so many simps didn't get educated properly and cope by calling me a nerd and/or a smartass - Keep watching G54 and taking it seriously).
@@the_kombinatormechanic here. bro chill out, you will be surprised to know how many people don’t know a thing about cars let alone knowing about seals in an engine 😂 and I don’t blame them so it maybe a hard question to many
@@the_kombinator you have to remember women think blinker need blinker fluid to operate so 👀 it's a hard question for some🤣
@@cch201992 I've never met a woman that dumb - or a person even. Hell my first wife was a tuner ;)
@@the_kombinatorAh yes, because everyone on this planet knows exactly how a engine works or is in grade 5.
I totally forgot.
Dudes like you are super suspect, do you know the anatomy of an Whale? No? Oh you gotta be in grade 3!
What a senseless bs
You have relieved so much stress from so many people it's crazy (4.5M views = centuries of stress).
My tiny engine takes 0.8 quarts, I put in 1. Was worried I'd need to drain/suck out 0.2 quarts. Now, I am glad it's got the extra oil.
This is why some people are more visual learners than text n books. I learned so much even though I had a basic understanding of how oil works. Thank you sir.
Yup. Big visual learner. I can retain AND recall the information better if It is shown to me while you are describing it.
I can manage without visual cues but it’s harder for me to pick up information once the topic becomes more and more complex.
Watching this was like finally picking out that stubborn booger in my nose. Feels great 😆
No it isnt. That stupid theory has been disproved.
There's only so much you can learn by witnessing it yourself. At some point you have to fast track your learning by learning through others experience and following their knowledge in print
@@richardcook1987 would you mind showing me some reputable sources for your argument?
@@XQzMEH it is sometbing that was around in thr 70s. That teachers were taught when they were learning.
These guys gave us the proper visual answer that we have in our minds. Next video suggestion, how little oil can an engine have before breaking
That would be fun.
This comment needs more likes I would love to see that video
2 quarts low, my 67 Dodge Dart, Slant 6 engine, still runs, would not recommend going lower, bought it used and that’s all it had in it!
Master Milo had a video about this. It's very short, as the crankshaft welds itself due to the friction
This guy answers all the questions I've had for the last 25 years as an automotive machinist and engine/drivetrain rebuilder.
You shouldve already known this after 25yrs or tested it yourself in that time though
@@lollipop84858 that means he knows what hes doing. He never had to find out lol
@@lollipop84858 You'd really think a normal engine builder would actually go through with the crazy things this guy has done? He's doing it for RUclips views, I did it to get paid by my customers. You think any customer would want their engine built with the crankshaft throws completely cut off, just to see what would happen? No sane machinist would endorse doing that.
@UnjustifiedRecs e never claimed he a was that good to be fair, lol joking
@unjustifiedrecs Customers don't ask for crazy things like cutting off all the counterweights on a crankshaft, nor would I *ever* recommend it. But Garage 54 did it. He does things for views, I did things for customers.
I'm impressed that the polycarbonate pan and view-window didn't leak like crazy. Don't be tempted to think that it means that it's better to always have your engine oil to be a bit over full. A bit under full is better and less apt to cause problems with oil circulation. If you're going to be regularly running the machine at severe angles, maybe a little extra oil is better? However, at the very least, using a different oil pan with a deeper sump is probably needed
decades of conversations with professional mechanics, smart backyard mechanics, and me, who regularly works on my cars and friends' cars, and i've never been given a straight or consistent answer. i've always enjoyed this channel, but that was fucking fantastic. cheers, from me in Alaska to you in Siberia!
now that you know, you understand why your friends keep 1/2 to 1 quart extra in winter.
For motorcycle engine it will jam up the gears and overflow
I went to UAF in Fairbanks. A friend and I experimented by putting different grades and types of oil outside overnight in the winter. The synthetic oil was the only one that never went totally frozen. However, it was still very viscous.
few points to keep in mind here.
first of all that oil pan is molded from the outside making it bigger than the original.
this is an old lada engine, nowhere near the tolerances of modern stuff.
it is only running for a few minutes in these conditions.
it is not moving around like a vehicle going up/downhill.
and they are filling it up even after it is beyond critical levels for normal operation.
in my career i have seen a few vehicles towed into the shop due to double filled oil. one because the lube tech drained the transmission on a subaru thinking it was the engine and didn't check the dipstick after filling the engine with more oil. that car made it about a mile before it started bucking like a horse and pouring smoke and oil out of the exhaust.
another one was because a chevy trax owner thought the oil life % on the instrument cluster measured the oil level, and put 4 more quarts into the engine when it reached 5% and dinged at them. that one was just pouring a bunch of smoke and oil out of the exhaust.
besides that i have seen some vehicles shoot the dipstick out, spray oil onto the exhaust manifold, and clogging the catalytic converters just from being a quart or two over.
@@jpjp9111wait, synthetic went frozen solid? What kept the best viscosity for engine starting?
G54 is the worlds most awesome car related youtube channel. No joke. Thank you BMI for translating for a wider audience!
👍
So great, they repost other peoples videos so they can get views for more money
Garage 54 and drive4answers
@@canampilot9248 hey man. To me the Garage54 team is definitely not what I'd call "other people", as I know these people personally (I've met with them in person and continuously stay in touch with them), and I'm part of their team at this point, translating their shenanigans for a broader audience that doesn't speak Russian.
Unbelievable how reliable these engines are. This is great to know, sometimes we go a little overboard in the dipstick and it's good to know it is not quite that big of a deal
I just got back from changing the oil in my sister- in- laws 3.3 Nissan and put in 4 quarts out of the 5 quart jug she bought.
Then I found for the first time in history a crankcase that held less than 1 gallon of oil.
Almost every V8 I ever dealt with held 4 quarts, my little Ford Ranger 4 cylinders hold 5 quarts, but this big Nissan V6 is only supposed to have 3.5 quarts.
So is the extra half quart going to cause the oil whipping up a frenzy?
According to this video probably not.
I would have to go over a couple whole quarts to even get close.
Hate to break it to you but my V-8 Mustang gt takes 8 quarts.
@@michaelszczys8316 Nissans seem to usually hold less oil than many of the other brands of cars for some reason, I don't know the reason why as I am not an engineer, I just turn wrenches.
@@celestial4762 Perhaps that’s why they’re unreliable! 🌝
@@carlosarmero594pffft 11 quarts in my Ford 390
A-1 video great presentation !! i've never seen anything like it ! I have started putting in 10 quarts instead of 5 quarts, the extra oil loosened the sludge around the block, totally plugged oil filter, valves started to clang & rattle, oil pressure dropped to zero,
when I pulled oil filter, it was full & solid, I carry a spare filter now.. thanks mister !!
This guy has such a mild manner and teachable personality, he is clearly educated in mechanics, I love his videos.
Amen 🙂 🙂 🙂
Want? It's all dubbed from a different language
@@Slowpaws1389 youre so full of shit! they dont conscript old people! HAHAHAHA
@@DannebergAcresyeah the guy is speaking Russian
Yes you like it, oh but you know this guys also sponsoring War in Ukraine?
It truly depend on the engine design, oil pan capacity and the method of storing the oil (dry sump).
Some engine have higher tolerance above the "max" mark while other engines may have a tolerance of less than 1L
It is also good to note this engine was not moving like in a car. While braking or accelerating the oil get slushed around, at x2 the maximum the oil could have easily found it's way in the breather. It is best not to put in too much above the maximum.
Very true. My engine takes 5.2, I could only imagine it at 10.4.
I do a lot of long highway and don't daily my car. I keep it at 5.5.
A&P mechanic here. You’ll almost never find a dry sump land vehicle that doesn’t have the Ferrari Lamborghini Mercedes AMG ect logo on it. Most cars can’t even corner hard enough to starve the pump so most cars are wet sump. Now in aviation, for piston type aircraft, dry sump is the norm. So really you aren’t going to even need the wet sump dry sump variable because most people can’t afford a car that needs to have a dry sump in the first place.
@@adawg3032was there a Subaru engine that had a bad case of starvation when driven hard on track, or am I misremembering?
Used to work at a rental company when I was younger, guy had a tfsi and oil light came on so he just added oil, 1L. Oil light stayed on so he added another 1L, oil light stayed on so he added another 1L (we assume, could have been more but English was bad so was translation so there was a barrier there but this is what he told us). By the time he got to us it went bang in the parking lot. Car had 1500 miles on it😅
@@AI-Records24 I worked at a jiffy lube years ago. This old womans husband had died, and she never pumped her own gas. Unsure of where the gas hole was, she opened the hood and filled then engine to the top with gas. As she was driving down the street the car began smoking and she came straight to us. She didnt tell us what happened, as she didnt know, just that it started smoking. The guy in the pit started yelling. It's full of gas! The fumes filled the building and we had to evac the customers, made sure nobody smoked and opened all the doors. There weren't any obvious signs of damage but who knows what happened after she left. Friggen gas hole.
Finally, something on RUclips that was worth wasting time over !! Thanks mate, excellent presentation 👍 now I know.
Thanks for making this vid, I never was able to see inside the engine while running, But.... I have always slightly overfilled to allow for sump pan drop, rather have more than starve for oil.
For those that don't think about it this way,. what you're seeing when excessively overfilled, is a mild version of hydro--locking.
normally it's crankshaft seals that get pushed out.
Genuinely impressed by how much that custom made plastic sump was able to take! The pressure inside it must have been considerable!
Oh and any worries I had about accidentally adding 1L too much oil on my next oil change are gone forever! Thanks 👌👍
I guess that's why Ford engineers decided to use plastic oil pans, only theirs DO leak!
I love glass/transparent spark plugs even more! When I first saw one, I was like “this probably explodes the first minute.
Its not combustion chamber duh, so not really much pressure worth noting on, the pressure inside crankcase block is ventilated out through PCV.
@@khlua4590 Yes, thank you I know "Its not combustion chamber duh".
But it still had the weight of 20+ L of oil on it with the centrifugal force of that being spun around at 5-6k rpm, so yeah I think there probably were some forces exerted on it. As was apparent by the way the oil sprayed out with force from the mating face when the gasket sealant eventually failed toward the end.
I had a 1972 Mazda 616 with 1600cc OHC engine. It held 4 imperial quarts (5 us quarts). I changed the oil every 2000 miles and the oil stayed clean. I went to a full service gas station, they used to check the oil at every fill up. The guy said it was low so I had him put in a quart. I only drove a few miles and the pressure build up in the engine blew the filler cap off and sprayed oil all over the engine. The filler cap was hard plastic with course threads that screwed solidly into the valve cover so the pressure build up had to be considerable.
I just witnessed execution of the most thorough engine flush ever performed!
Foaming cleaning technology! 😂
It's impressive how well the anti foam properties of the oil work.
Awesome demonstration. The true issue with over fill is not really the oil, but actually that air caused by agitation and the eventual failure of materials, the oil trying to find a path of less resistance to expand. The lesson learned hear is engines that have aged and uses up oil up faster because of moder engineering practices, you can just add 1.5X the normal amount and fill safe doing so.
Thanks guys. I just added an extra 5 quarts just to be safe.
If our truck has 25 quarts as standard...no problem.
Put 7 extra for my Corsa 😂
am gonna do it too
LoL
Another 5L might make your engine run away if it's a diesel.
What they haven't tested is getting that oil hot enough to produce oil vapour that goes into the intake (they stuck the breather into a bucket).
14:55 this IS the crucial part when overfilling Diesel Engines with oil it just spills the oil into the crankshaft Ventilation Back into intake -> RUNAWAY
And when you overfill it, it will run for longer, too
Not running a PCV reroute on a diesel 🤮
Like the oil Detroit Diesel road oilers.
unless it is a modern diesel with an "anti shudder valve" As long as that valve seals properly and there are no intake leaks post valve it will shut off real quick when you key off
@@StarHunter28 There is no good reason to reroute PCV on a diesel if you have no EGR system in place/active especially on a modern diesel with an oil/air separator inline with the PCV. Not to mention if you do a reroute dumped to atmosphere and do not run it in a good location where it will not freeze up... bad day if that ever plugs fully with ice
I was always afraid of the fact, when I pour in oil more than required at times and remained uneasy while driving ... But I must thank you for putting me at ease regarding pouring "bit" more than required .....
Thank you Man ..
Bear in mind not all engines are the same.
Did a long haul trailer delivery in BC Canada, the trailer weighed in at 6500lbs, my truck is a 03 Dodge Ram Cummins 5.9 diesel engine auto trans 4x4. At last oil change I mistakenly overfilled by a 1/4 to 3/8 inch over on the dipstick. Under non load conditions that bit of overfill had no consequences. Under extreme load, pulling up a hundred or so 4% to 7% grades over 1500kms haul distance some oil seems to have been pushed out of rear mainseal..not good, but also not fatal as the seal has retained integrity since that long haul job. I would recommend that filling to the exact manufactures spec be followed ... no telling how many seal leaks it takes for the mainseal to be destroyed ... why is it that people think that their engine knowledge supersedes that of the engineers and technicians that design internal combustion engines,
A 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch over should NOT cause oil to push out of the rear main seal. You had other issues
I've see way too much of what egineers and technicians do to cars. My knowledge may humbly supercede their techfoolery.
I'm glad that this channel is still more alive after all of these years, love you all on Garage 54!
This is the best mechanic channel on RUclips. To understand why things should be done in the correct way. Thanks and congrats.
are you nuts ? he's a amateurish moron
They work on a lot of Opels.
This is a very good explanation and visualization of excess oil in the crankcase. I had expected oil to blow through the front and rear crankshaft seals.
I just got an oil change and was really worried because when i checked dip stick the oil was above the max line. This video puts my mind at ease. Thank you.
i overfilled more then 1/4" over the max hole,and nothing happened so far
@@marmay6874 Keep going.
I got unlucky then. Brand new car engine seized due to overfill. I didn't find the need to check since I it was a brand new car. Damage was done after 9k when I saw smoke pouring out behind going up a hill and afterwards saw that it was massively overfilled. Thankfully warranty kicked in since it wasn't my fault. They said with the newer engines everything is tighter so it killed it.
@@assaulter99 We talking 9k miles? I know most new cars tell you to follow the recommended oil interval, but that's to pad their "cost of maintenance" numbers. I changed my oil on my brand new car at 2800. Dealership tried to tell me no. Told them to shove it, and do it.
@@Banana_Cognac Sorry it was 9k in kilometres. Service on that engine was due every 15k.
It’s cool to see this. I don’t know that I’ve ever tried to visualize what exactly it is that oil does.
There was french motorcycle in 1938, named Simca Sevitame. 2 cylinder upside down engine works literally in oil bath. Whole engine was mounted in aluminium box, filled with oil. Check out, who is intrested.
Interesting, thanks.
That little beast takes 8 liters of oil. Thanks
@@t16205 yup, exactly. How many oil needed to filling 5,7 hemi?
@@a777aa64rus About 7 liters😅 I love weird old engines!
@@a777aa64rusmy 16 hellcat only needed 6 quarts
put some egg yolks in it, a bit of mustard and fill it up with sunflower seed oil and after a few mins you got freshly made mayo
Eww..
I only eat my sandwiches with 10w-30 mayonnaise
Now you take this home, throw it in a pot, add some broth, a potato. Baby, you’ve got a stew going.
Mmmm, forbidden Mayo. It is the same process; hydrogenating the oil causing it to congeal, motor oil is designed to return to liquid but eventually... well you pull the dipstick out cold and it's covered in yellow mayonnaise and it's now time to dump the sump and flush all the old oil out.
@@skaldlouiscyphre2453fucking eww lol
I didnt expect this in my recommendation feed as I'm nearly clueless as a mechanic, but as a scientist, as a car owner and just overall curious person, that was really great! I always enjoy looking at the "inside of things" and it's fantastic that we can now make transparent engines to make demonstrations like this one.
Super job from you guys, although you made me anxious near the end with that crazy amount of oil LOL 😂
What kind of scientist are you? Physics? Chemistry? Biology?
MAD ; )
@@ShannonDove-sy7ye By the wording and the logic, diversity scientist.
Cavitation (air bubbles in fluid) means less oil gets to the top end (cam and lobes, valve stems, rocker arms, lifters, etc.), causing premature wear ,reducing horsepower and fuel efficiency because of the drag on the crank counterweights. It's why some engine builders use a windage tray to remove oils parasitic drag on the crank. Awesome video by the way.
I'm amazed that oil pan and block window have no leaks
Sikaflex 222FTW
Of course he used black RTV sealant
It did leak eventually as I knew it would. 16:44
Guess you didn't watch the vid until the end?
Watch till the end.
Best demonstration of windage ever, thank you!
Lol. I was thinking the same thing.
The joy on this man's face made my day batter. His inner child was coming out. It was good to see.
Watch wingsofredemption his inner child Always comes out 😂🤮
There can be good reasons to thoughtfully overfill the oil. I had a ‘96 Mustang Cobra, and the DOHC heads needed a fair amount of oil, but the return passages were pretty small, so the heads ended up holding more oil when the engine was running. This wasn’t an issue on its own, but it did mean there was less oil in the crankcase when the engine was running. I always put in 6.5 litres of oil instead of the recommended 5.5, and immediately after running the engine the oil level was consistently at the full mark.
I think it’s a good way to flush the engine of gunk buildup….add an extra quart, take the car for a spin for 30 in the highway, take it back home and drain oil. I knew someone who did this with conventional oil every 3k miles and the car lasted over 30yrs
A buddy of mine had a Trailblazer with a 5.3 V8 engine. Those engines are notorious for the O-ring going bad at the top of the pick-up tube. It happens to be at the front of the engine, so during acceleration or on an incline, oil pressure would drop, since oil moves backward in those situations. We put a scanner on there that told us the realtime oil pressure in psi, then we jacked the front of the car up until pressure started to drop. We added an additional quart of oil to get the pressure back to normal, then we jacked it up some more until it dropped again. We added a second extra quart, then jacked it up again, and this time it was high enough that we didn't think the car would ever get on an incline that steep. We added the third extra quart to get the pressure back to normal. After that, we simply added the 3 additional quarts at every oil change. That was a long term test of about 70k miles for a total of 230k on the vehicle when he finally sold it. As long as that O-ring was submerged, it couldn't draw any air and the pressure stayed normal. That was only 3 quarts over full, and it was a bigger engine so I never expected any adverse effects. We could have dropped the front axle, pulled the pan and replaced that O-ring, but to add 3 quarts and get the exact same result just made sense. Apologies to all the OCD mechanics out there scoffing at the "rigged" fix, lol.
Did you warn the buyer?
Thank you so much but, I had bought a new high flow oil point for my girl, 5.3 sierra, and I get 0 oil pressure on my mechanical reader garage I installed from napa haaha. If I Rev it wil go up and read a bit, but only read on idle when cold.
The nw pump comes with that o ring, but seeing that I can do your trick, and how rotted my frame got from sitting I don't thing the pump jobs worth it now if I can just add a few quarts! Thanks a million!
@@waynegretzky8464if your engine is running with 0 oil pressure at idle, chances are it’s already a goner
A colleague of mine in University 20 years ago drove a trailblazer that died on lack of lubricant, guess this and the video content would have been exactly what could have saved his car…
Thx for answering a question kicking around in my mind.
Thank you , very informative. Knew all this by theory, but never got to see cavitation levels with overfilling and crank whip. Thank you!
The only thing missing was a large oil pressure gauge so we could see how the cavitation show on the pressure levels.
Great video. Would like to see when oil is less than half of what’s required. Amazing info. Thank you.
Once the oil level drops below the "oil pick-up" also known as the inlet for the oil pump, no oil is circulated throughout the engine, many important parts begin to wear and heat from friction. Before very long, something fails catastrophically. A piston rod bearing, a crankshaft main bearing, the crankshaft itself, the overhead camshaft or its bearings. A piston could seize in a cylinder.
Something horrible.
As long as it is above minimum on the dipstick though, nothing bad will occur!
Fascinating experiment! Great idea with the transparent panels and pan. Thank you. They always tell us to be careful and never overfill. As this experiment proves it is not a big deal at all if a few more ml go into to the engine.
Sir , I'm not a mechanic but now I see what happens when there's lot more oil in the engine, thanks Sir
10:48 - I was already screaming NOOO! DON'T DO IT !! and you added more oil three times after that!
you can see it's just destroying the oil, you wouldn't want to do regular intervals on that milkshake
Garage 54, Wow ,always thought putting a bit extra oil in wouldn't over pressurise the motor, My commodore back in 1982 blew a sump gasket & I lost my oil & 3rd piston started knocking, bye bye motor. Kudos for the video ,you showed how overfilling a little doesn't hurt the motor. I didn't know this, great show & tell, keeps the people in the know.Thanks GARAGE 54, GREAT VIDEO....... ( AUSSIE JOHN)........
Best live report from inside an engine ever, thank you very much.
if a volvo car gets the tiniest bit of engine oil too much, you get a big engine problem warning and big cost to fix, drain the oil and reset the error, unnecessary I think after I've seen your video.
Mechanic of 30 years old neighbor. Said he puts one quart extra in his own vehicles. In an engine like acura 3.7 v6 that burns oil ive over added oil it whole life so far and this is confirmed that its not hurting a thing. Better over than under way better
Some engines will burn oil if over full or at Max and find their own level.
As long as the level is between the high and low you're good to go.
Thank you for the well done factual presentation. It is a relief that reasonable overfills are trivial. However, foaming at extreme overfill levels is very likely going to cause problems due to loss of viscosity and the introduction of air where air should not go.
Would have been interesting to have an oil pressure gauge plugged in there. Thanks for the experiment!
Exactly, why no gauge? Why no vision of the exhaust for smoke? A voiceover with brains would be nice.
It would more than likely show less in the oil pressurised system due to the air in the system. Maybe even cavitation in the oil pump. A pressure gauge would have been great to show this effect.
I overfilled the 4.8 in my truck by about half a quart once when I was 17 at 6000 rpm it decided to start spraying a mist of oil around the valve cover gaskets and continued to do so at high rpm for years until I replaced the heads in 2014. Truck is 20 years old now and still has the original cast iron exhaust manifolds and my engine bay is still rust free.
Very cool experiment with the various levels of oil. I was expecting the oil pan to blow off, but you guys did an excellent job with sealing your see through assemblies. Thanks for the educational video.
Another awesome experiment. I'm sure we've wondered about what would actually happen if the oil was overfilled, and these guys took it to the extreme in true garage 54 style. I've always heard that it would foam up and blow out the seals, and that it wasn't good for an engine to suck up a bunch of foam. Never seen it in person before though as I've never overfilled an engine like that. Definitely cool to see though, and it really scratches the itch of curiosity. You guys rock.👍👍
My car requires for 4.6 quarts of oil at an oil change and I always end up putting an entire 5 quart container in since I don’t want 0.4 quarts of oil lying around. Nice to know that small amount of extra oil doesn’t harm anything.
Just because it worked on a stand, doesn't mean you should feel OK about an extra half quart! 😢
@@trm4life well considering I’ve been doing it since I got the car almost 3 years ago, put 60,000 miles and done 12 oil changes and nothing has happened, I’m going to continue doing it. Let me freak you out further, the car “calls for” 0w20 weight oil but I put 0w30 in winter and 5w30 during warm weather. That little extra viscosity I notice a quieter engine and there’s no noticeable loss in MPG
@seanguy9720 pcv. Positive crankcase ventilation. When you over fill, it goes into the combustion chamber. The Chevrolet equinox and Saturn vue, have a problem where the oil ends up in the intake manifold, and the engines die prematurely because of it.
@@trm4life Well, most things are engineered with margins of safety. Specially motor engines. I am not a mechanic, but from my ignorance, I am pretty sure those 0.4 are not making any difference.
I'm with you with my 2022 Veloster N. Problem with my car is I watch all the oil drain with it level on a lift, I put 5.2 quarts in as required, it reads half an inch above full on the stick.
Been doing that since 1100 miles and have 15,200 miles now. Car has taken me from NYC to Key West and back and been up the Mount Washington auto road twice.
In eco mode at 60mph I'm getting wayyyyyyy over the 28mpg highway number (35mpg). So there's no drag from the oil.
I'm gonna keep it up.
As others have noted the issue is foaming and air bubbles in the system. But theres another that i found out in the oilfield. Old oilfield engines, fairbanks&morse/bell, motors, don't have pumps, they are whipped through the engine by a flipper on the connecting rod cap. That mechanical whipping not only airates the oil and foams it but it breaks it down ALOT faster and sludges up the engine. I now use good diesel oil or thick oil in the motors. Synthetic has promise but only in motors that have new sleeves and new piston and seals. I have seen it work in one motor. Otherwise, on arrow/connentinal motors it dose not matter since those makes have oil pumps.
I read many years ago if you take the normal oil level and lower your oil level down by one quart. Your engine pick up an oil pressure and horsepower. I didn't do this because of the horsepower because it would be a very minimal gain. I did this test to raise oil pressure at 700 RPMs a low idle. It worked it raised the oil pressure when I dropped the oil level by one quart. And I noticed once before with the normal oil level. I went a little bit higher in oil level a quart and it lowered the oil pressure even more at an idle. And what I did for safety when I lowered my oil level by one quart. I installed a cheap low oil pressure Summit Racing low oil pressure shut off safety switch. I want to start it up after it's been sitting I have to hit the override button. The engine builds oil pressure then I hit the override button and the engine will fire up. Too bad this test didn't have an oil pressure gauge and it would have showed how low the oil pressure was the higher he raised the oil level. The higher the oil level is too with any engine the more bubbles it makes. All bubbles don't make solid oil pressure it drops oil pressure. And when I build an engine right before it's ready to fire up. I feel the engine full of oil all the way to the top of the valve cover. When you do this it totally oils everything and the engine will not turn over it's literally hydrolocked. It's the same process I do when I'm storing a complete engine and I also feel the cylinders up by spinning the engine over and filling the spark plug holes with oil too. I use a funnel and a clear vinyl hose. This is the only way to store an engine so you don't have any rust. Metal can't trust when it's fully submerged in oil. If it's an old engine and needs to be rebuilt or knocking use preferably use diesel oil. And if it's a nice engine of course use new oil. On the street or the strip yanking the car around. The low oil pressure switch has never shut off the engine. I also have a fail-proof water temperature switch also set at 190 degrees the engine will shut off and it did once. It saved me a lot of time and money my shutting off early and not blowing head gaskets are cracking heads from getting too hot. Having the safeties on any engine is worth its weight in gold. Sure I'm like most guys and the business I can fix anything but I don't want to it's too much time and money. I'd rather build something or fix something and it lasts forever. If we only have these sensors on all vehicles we would save so much time money and resources. I've tried to sell it to people over the years but they're just too tight. They don't think the biggest problem out there overheating will happen to them. They would rather save back then a few hundred dollars. Then back then a 1,000 - 1,500 to repair it. Not including a lot of time and money to fix. But today's cost is several thousands of dollars and a lot more time. And most people can't even have it fixed because they can't do without their car that long so they have to buy another car or catch rides. If they don't have a backup car. They don't put the safeties on everyday cars because they want you to buy more. They put the safeties on commercial vehicles.
Maybe you should do your own RUclips channel and share your knowledge
Lowering the oil by one quart will NOT make any difference to oil pressure...
You just answered a question I have had since high-school autoshop classes! Thank you!!
One of the most useful videos on car care I've ever seen. Thanks for the education!
Lada Service Manual: "Oil Capacity: Da."
This is exactly why I love youtube, I wouldn't search for this kinda stuff but watched the whole thing when algorithm suggested it. Really enjoyed you pushing it to the limit and arguably, past it 😄👏. Great video, thank you sir.
"kinda"???
This is an awesome demonstration.
I would love to see this done again but with a windage tray.
Also, with a race oil with the anti-foaming properties.
I would also like ro see this test again with a high flow oil pump to test the theory of sucking the pan dry.
Also, add a pressure gauge to see the difference.
Can we somehow filter out comments from you ess ehh so that we are not confused by their silly comments?
@@kennethkeen1234 yea it's called your brain, you can use it to choose. Whether, you read my comments or not. It's your own natural filter.
WHEN WORKING FOR THE SANTA FE RAILROAD IN AN LOCOMOTIVE SHOP, I ONCE SAW TWO GUYS START AND GENERAL ELECTRIC LOCOMOTIVE
WITH ALL THE CRANKCASE COVERS OFF OF ONE SIDE!
AN EARLIER CREW HAD REMOVED THE COVERS FOR AN CRANKCASE INSPECTION.
THESE GUYS FAILED TO DO AN WALK AROUND INSPECTION BEFORE STARTING AND WHEN IT LIT OFF , IT SLUNG A LOT OF OIL OUT!
HOWEVER IT WAS AN GREAT SHOW WATCHING THE INTERNAL PARTS AT WORK!
I COULD HAVE WARNED THEM, BUT THEY WERE SOME “. KNOW IT ALL” TYPES AND DECIDED TO WATCH THE FUN, INSTEAD!!😅😅😅😅
KEEP THEM ROLLING BROTHERS!!
👍👍
WHY ARE YOU SCREAMING THIS SO LOUD!??
No he just want all the old people to read easier!!!! Its funny how things go hey tou think you the man then things goes south and next thing everyone need to help you 😂
@@mattiapresti7295 Will you be quiet!! You are deafening me!
Thank you for yet another educational video! I highly appreciate your videos with see-through covers. May I suggest the following slight improvements: attach an oil temperature and oil pressure gauge because it would be interesting to see the effect on these parameters. Secondly, why not draw a couple of lines on the oil pan? A thick green line for normal oil level, a dotted black line for 1/2 litre above and full black line for 1 litre above. A yellom line at minimum oil level and a red line at 1 litre below minimum level. Thanks once again and keep up with the good work!
I really appreciate the effort put into this video just to teach the viewing audience (not just following someone doing their hobby!). THANKS SO MUCH!!
Who needs an oil change when your leaks and you keep topping it off 😂. Gotta change the filter of course
Why, if the oil is pretty much new all the time why bother?
My 7.3 leaks abt a quart every 200 miles, so within 5K miles I end up “changing” the oil by topping it off abt 2x. I still change the oil and filter at 4-5K just to get junk out of the motor, but I could probably just change the filter, & keep towing it off but that’s kinda wrong.
I have an 01 civic that burns and leaks enough oil that Ill go from full on the dipstick to a little below the fill line in the time it takes for a tank of gas. Havent done an oil change. 25,000km later it still looks brand new, clean enough its hard to see on the dipstick lol
Aha you found my 1991 Hyundai Excel I had in high school - self-changing oil!
detroit diesel - if its not leakin oil then it must be empty
Good to know you can overfill oil a little bit and not have anything too bad happen. I still wouldn't put in double what they recommend or anything but I wont stress about an extra quart or something now. Of course this all depends on the engine as well as they're not all the same.
That was also my take away point, but worth remembering that you will lose fuel efficiency even with an extra cpl quarts, as the oil feed wheel has more load on it.
Especially for engines that eat oil. How many times I was so worried about putting too much in vs how much ran out, I don't have to worry about letting one go hungry again :)
I was happy to see this video, I had a oil change and the shop put all of my 5 litre jug in. I was a little concerned but it was something I always did my entire life.
@@wobblyboost with my 2022 Veloster N, the book says 5.2 quarts.
I have the car level on a lift, I drain it all out, I put 5.2. Qt in, it reads .5" higher than max.
Same with oil changes at 1100 miles, 5000, 8500, and 13500.
Dipstick may just be wrong... Hyundai lol. Car is rated for 22 city / 28 highway mpg. I'm getting 36mph at 60mph in eco mode. So level is ok. No parasitic loss.
Probably just the stick.
Issues with over filling your engine oil:
* Reduced efficiency and engine performance as crankshaft and other components put more energy to splash and pump higher quantity of oil
* Over pressure on seals and other components causing leakage and seal failure
* Foaming reduces the lubrication causing reduction in life of bearings and mating surfaces in the long term
* Cavitation and flashing of engine oil when crank and other components hit the oil at high velocities causing mechanical damage to engine components
Umm you watched the video to aye ?😂
I had this happen to my first car back in the day.
A quick oil change place put 9+ quarts of oil in my 4 quart car and didn't notice.
Blew out every seal and the dipstick. I had oil splattered in the front wheel wells and all over the hood.
Main adverse affects would be oil consumption due to the crank throwing excess oil onto the cylinders and lack of lubrication due to aeration of oil
Oil wipes work both ways
Early engines did not have oil pumps and instead relied on "splash oiling" It worked but there were problems if you were on a long up hill/down hill grade which left the oil pooled to one end of the block and not able to splash the full length of the crank.
Thank you. This takes away any future anxiety about overfilling my engine with oil by half a quart. From now on, if my car is anywhere near Minimum, I'll add a full quart.
@Garage54 .... if you redo the test, you will thank me!! It will be a lot of fun!! That oil foam gets into the crank and rod bearings, and actually causes the oil film to break down, and you will spin a rod bearing or crankshaft bearing!! How do I know, I had two people do it already. Engine oil has detergents, and it foams; think Dawn soap when you shake it. The oil lifting up the engine block is allowing more air to mix into the oil. You didn't run long enough to have any detrimental effect......yet!! Try running the engine at a constant rpm when you see the air bubbles in the oil, and you will have that engine seize up!! Redo the double fill 6:30 mark, and leave the engine run above idle for at least 20 to 25 mins at constant rpm when you see air bubbles. The issue comes as people drive 10 plus minutes and the motor is above idle so air is mixing with the oil, so the test stand running for a few minutes isn't reflective of what can happen.
That's interesting I was thinking the same thing - real world application of running sustained like on the highway
I’m not sure if those polymer windows can withstand the normal operating temperature of the engine.
Why most racing oils have very low calcium levels, as well as little to none of any other detergents. 😉
That, and the oil is changed LONG before there is much dirt, or combustion blow-by allowed to get into the oil in the first place.
Interesting demonstration, yet you should not risk health for it. You should definitely connect an exhaust extraction or at least open all doors and maximize air exchange. Have a look at 16:40 - horrible, blowing the exhaust into the room and at the camera man. While exhaust especially enriched by burnt oil would not considered healthy, additionally please remember the danger of carbon monoxide poisoning.
@@Timo-M Russian men are tough this like oxygen for them, I was thinking the same but again, they are Russians :)
This was actually quite fascinating to see! Thanks! 😄
My mechanic has told me stories about engines having been filled twice by mistake at an oil change. One blew all the oil seals and the other blew its block.
I dont doubt, the forces inside the block at redline must be insane
Which just goes to show how robust the Lada engine is. Definitely my go-to for the zombie apocalypse, lol
@@robinpage2730 That, 70s mercedes and 80s Hilux 😁
@@wobblyboostthe Ladas are exponentially more common, though that's assuming you are in the soviet sattelite regions. even so, the Mercedes and hiluxes are rapidly winding up in junkyards to get crushed.
@@LuwiigiMaster Oh i'm in Australia (little island in south asia 😁), I don't doubt Ladas would outlive them, but was just going on the interesting fact that older model 'luxes and mercs are extremely popular in arab regions, africa, sth americas and most of asia as they too are highly reliable and repairable. Don't get me wrong, modern mercs and most of the toyota range will be lucky to live past 5 years, are expensive to repair and parts hard to source or reproduce.
Interestingly a lot of Ladas are being sourced for purchase by Russian companies in UK and europe to satisfy a need for parts recently, due to 'the troubles'; so many Ladas are getting to return to mother russia again.
The next time I am changing the oil on my Soviet-era 4-stroke (with a plexiglass oil pan), this information will come in very handy.
Don't overfill the engine oil. Reason 1: Anything spinning in a fluid will slow the object that is spinning. You're making the engine work harder for no reason. Reason 2: The oil is foaming. You can't lubricate an engine with air. Reason 3: Drastically increased oil degradation due to heat and contact from the sheering effect. Just don't do it.
Yea we know we all watched the same video 🤦♂️
@@aaroncapps1639 Some people don't know exactly what is happening in the video. Take your sarcasm elsewhere.
Yes we know,the video was obviously made for scientific purposes.
@@aaroncapps1639 Klugscheisser.
@@omnicave3183 Don't listen to the idiots in the comments. You've wrote a good summary of what NOT to do to an engine. Some people hate if somebody's smarter than them.
When the oil foams and turns milky, it becomes compressible and oil pressure is lost to the bearings - that's the main concern - it was more foamy at 2x than at max, so probably already loosing pressure, but you would have needed a gauge to measure - thanks for sharing!
In the mid 90’s I stopped to help a poor woman with car problems. I asked her to pop the hood and everything was dripping oil. I opened the air cleaner on the carburetor and it was full of oil.
I asked her if she had put oil in, and she told me her husband had instructed her to “put some oil in the car before you go to work…”. She told me she “filled it up”.
She had just kept putting oil in until she couldn’t get any more in.
I told her that her best bet was the oil change joint two blocks away. I still wonder how she made out.
I have a Ram 1500 V8, and it calls for 7 quarts of oil. I always use Royal Purple synthetic 5w 20. I always before Changing my oil Bring Up Operating temperature this way When I drain the oil I can get the most out. Putting the 7 quarts puts the oil Level right at the top or a little over the Max line. Great video. 🇺🇸
Excellent. Thank you for this fine and great video. So many people are afraid of 1/2 quart too much. This shows that 1/2 quart is not a problem. Sharing this with many people.
Now I know how oil inside the engine moves! Wow! This one is for real and not animation, this is the first time I saw how it moves for real, thanks for this good guy, because of that I will subscribe to your beautiful channel. By the way, I'm watching here in the Philippines 🇵🇭.
I think veritasium or smarter every day did a video where a guy build an engine out of clear plastic, and you could see how it all worked with the oil. I think it was smarter every dwy
So how come your English is better than any Amerry Cans who don't seem to be able to articulate themselves at all?
That's actually fascinating. In this engine, a couple of extra quarts won't hurt.
Great video. Well done.👍👏
Excellent demonstration, thank you. I immediately sent this to both my sons. They need to know this just as much as they know how their phones operate. 😊
too much oil makes those large bubbles that will likely result in intermittent oil pressure on the rod bearings. But adding a little bit more over the max limit doesn't seem to cause any problems. A little foaming occurs anyway, also depending on the antifoam additives
It all depends on the engine construction. Some are a lot less tolerant than the Lada engine used here. So it's most safe to stay within the min to max spectrum. A little to much might not be the end of the engine, but with modern engines I would not take the chance.
Looks like you can double it and it won't foam lmao.
Years ago i had a honda accord 1300, the oil pump drive sheared off (common problem).
I filled the sump with maybe three times as much oil and did another 20k miles with no oil pump.
Worked fine.
My god
That's the Henry Ford splash lube system for the Model T....if you went uphill for too long the front mai bearing ran dry....
so the modern way to stop that is a catch funnel added as an aftermarket piece at the rear interior of the engine block
and a small oil tube running forward so the accumulated oil in the funnel still lubes the front bearing while going uphill....
Until the head seized? Or did the cam just wear out and stop opening the valves?
Yeah... but that's not a fair comparison, Honda's take a beating. I was NEVER nice to mine and put over 100k miles on it. After it was already past 200k miles.
karlwithak. Riiight, because they were so very efficient. Why use energy to power your drivetrain when you can just waste it pointlessly stirring a vat of oil. If only all the world's engineers had just listened to you, the know nothing in the cheap seats. All those dry sump race engines are just a waste of time folks, Karl the genius has the real oil, putting the wind in windage.
My son was on a road trip, close to a hundred miles from home, remembered he forgot to do the 5000 mile oil change, so found a shop to change it befor heading home. On the way home it wasn't running as it should. Checked the oil, it was way over filled, figured they forgot to dump the old oil and added the new on top. We drained it, it was thick, all the oil was a thick foam and in volume, about triple the proper amount. After a month the drained oil was still the same, still foam. I was surprised something didn't break, a piston rod or something, but motor was fine.
you dont have to change it every 5k miles on the dot, you probably did more damage (engine wear) to the engine from this than if you had let it go to 10k or 15k miles with out an oil change.
something they didn't cover in this vid is oil doesn't wear out, it's latterly millions of years old, the reason they want you to change it every 5k is the additives can get saturated, but depending on what type of fuel you use and how hard you run your engine it can be over 20k before it's really saturated.
5k is just playing it safe for people that abuse the engine, by not letting it idel for 30 sec on a cold start or worse giving it high revs on start up.
when you do an oil change and the old oil is still clear, it's no where near "needing" an oil change.
@@robgilmour3147
Lmao seriously
@@robgilmour3147 Oil gets polluted with carbon, combustible gases & unburned gasses and loses its lubricating properties. In most all situations changing the oil at 5k miles is the right thing to do and shouldn't go much over whether they abuse their car or not
@@seatime674 yes and the reson the oil can pick up the carbonate and particulates is largely do to the addtives in the oil, oil with out addtives stays clean looking far far longer than with out.
back in the 40s and 50s they didn't put addtives in and you often never had to change the oil, only doing so when you had to overhall the engine, witch was much more often because all that crap wasn't being removed by the oil.
we still have marine engines and mining engines today that we don't change the oil ever, (or till overhall) they just have bigger oil sumps and more robust filtration systems, 10,000 hours run time (200k+ miles) and the oil still lubricates just fine. we will add oil and on some of the really big engines they often test the oil viscosity and detergent levels but change the oil nope, only if something is seriously wrong it the test results.
I'm not saying its a bad thing, changing the oil every 5k is way cheaper than having to do an engine overhall every 50k like they used to, we rarely do engine overhalls any more and its largely do to additives and oil filters keeping the engine clean.
@@robgilmour3147 You're talking very old school engines and outdated theories. New engines today are extremely fine-tuned with very tight tolerances with super high compression. When gas is burned it creates a lot of garbage that pollutes the oil and loses its lubricating properties. End of story. There are many videos that show people that do 10 and 15,000 mile oil changes their engines need to be overhauled way sooner than later studies show after 5,000 MI twice the wear starts happening then three times the wear soon after.. It's a 100% fact
I want to thank you for doing this for now I can really see what to much oil really does do to a engine for others would say but none has shown it like your doing now... Thank You very much😊
Good video. Thanks,
Adding an oil pressure gauge to the testing and displaying the changes in pressure would be very interesting.
sraeli
Israel
A friend of my relatives drives an old Saab, last summer he checked the dipstick when we were around. It had oil to about 60% of the entire stick! To which he said "Oh I better fill her up". Apparently he had been driving this way for about 5 years without oil changes, just topping the engine up with an excessive amount of engine oil.
I showed him the Min-Max part of the dipstick and suggested to drain & replace the oil and have the correct amount of oil in, being stubborn he said "Well I've been driving like this for 5 years and it works just fine".
What really destroys an overfilled engine is the actual oil foam, it would be great if there was a camera capturing how much of those air bubbles where sucked by the pickup tube instead of oil, even with that milky microfoam you have huge ammounts of air on the galleys, rod bearings, etc, would be nice to see the aftermath.
A pressure gauge right on screen next to the transparent sump would have shown exactly that...
a drop as the air entrained in the oil is compressible....
so lower overall oil pressure as the foam increased....
No what would actually kill the engine would be the crankcase breather as the oil would be sucked back into the combustion chamber and hydro lock the engine, the crankcase breather was disconnected as you saw, if it had not been the engine would have been destroyed way before.
@@stevenc5227 that would depend on where the crank case ventilation is located , most are in the tappet cover
This is the coolest thing I've seen today
What a well oiled machine 😂
This is great stuff! Real information without somebody's dog or a "for humor" or "for drama" relative getting in the way. I just subscribed and I'm looking forward to more videos. Thank you for teaching me something!
I like dogs, but some TV-like videos are impossible to watch. They talk more about heirselves and their feelings than the car mechanics itself.
I JUST CHANGED MY OIL , I ADDED 10 GALLONS OF OIL THEN ANOTHER FEW GALLONS FOR THE HELL OF IT! ENGINE IS SUPER QUIET! OIL IS SHOOTING OUT OF THE AC VENTS , BUT ITS GOOD FOR THE SKIN MY WIFE SAYS …. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO !!!
:-D I put some fish there as well 😀
This is the best video ever. Please keep on with your outstanding work.