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ECS Tuning: How To Bleed Your Brakes
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2024
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Power Bleeders available here: goo.gl/iijpmW
ECS Tuning how do I know how much fluid I should pump?
Till it runs clear use a couple of bottles that should do the job.
Can I using power bleeder for motorbike as well or not ?!!!
InstaBlaster.
no need, the hand pump works well and is more robust (no electric and automatic moving parts). I have the schwaben 3 liter brake bleed pump and recommend it.
Here's a few tips I've learned from using a pressure bleeder...
1) Apply a bit of fresh brake fluid to the adapter seal so that it stays airtight. Similar to how dry o-rings need lubrication to seal, the rubber gasket in the adapter needs lubrication.
2) Replace the old fluid you removed from the master cylinder with fresh fluid slightly below the fill mark. This lessens the chance of pushing air through the system during the initial pumps.
3) After use, always clean the pressure bleeder with denatured alcohol. It's fairly simple. Just pour the denatured alcohol in the container, shake it up a bit, and pump everything out through the hose and leave to air dry. I normally do this twice and wipe down the inside although the wipe down may not be necessary. Also wipe down the adapter gasket with denatured alcohol.
BONUS: Adding a quick connect inline between the bottle and the adapter makes everything much easier. I can twist the adapter onto the master cylinder without kinks developing in the line compromising the stability of the bleeder bottle.
Thanks, Chris.
In Canada, we can't find denatured alcohol any longer!
Home Depot in the US was a good source when heading to the States for any shopping trips.
Great tips! Just got mine from ECS Tuning and can't wait to use it.
It is better to fill or almost fill the brake reservoir with clean fluid after drawing out the old fluid and before attaching the pressure bleeder. This removes any chance of pushing in a small air bubble into the the outlet of the reservoir tank where it could get trapped..
This video convinced me to buy this pump. Bled my brakes in less than half an hour by myself! Great product-
***** No problem! The video especially helped since I have an E92 M3.
@@surewin1773 So do I and i am trying to decide which product to buy.
@@goognamgoognw6637 Go with Extoil european spec....it's perfect and the has the release button...Motive thing has NOT!
@@azizhachimi8744 ha, your replied to an old post, i bought the ecs pump long ago, true it had the expected leak issue at the cap but with plumber tape it was a moderately easy to fix and the ecs pump has the big advantage of a valve manual switch. I bled my M3 all 4 brakes last year for the first time ever and it was a success. I was very happy to avoid the dealer.
Kudos to ECS for making this video. Very helpful.
Thanks for you video.
My car has yet done the flush for 6 years. While cool starting, it keep squeaking and noisy. A few days ago, I follow you did this DIY job with BOSH ESI6 brake fluid. It's amazing now, super silent and no need to put any grease on slider or brake pad outside.
Glad it helped
This guy!!! What an expert....Explains it effortlessly. Great video
When i was a automotive technician in the 1980s. I was a young man and very knowledgeable about engine and transmission. However, the older generation despised me for this. I'm glad to see young people use there skills and knowledge.
ECS Tuning know their stuff, great video. I use their Schwaben kit and can't imagine going back to old school pedal bleeding!
1) If the clutch needs bleeding, at what point in the sequence is it bled?
2) What is the procedure to also bleed the ABS pump?
I don't what any mess so I don't fill the power bleeder with brake fluid. I just fill the brake reservoir to the neck, attach the power bleeder for pressure and refill the reservoir when it gets low. More steps but I don't need to clean the bottle afterwards.
you can also make this with a spare reservoir cap, a hose barb to npt adapter, some tubing, and a small hand held tank sprayer.
Chiman I total agree with you it makes à great job
I do it the same.
Gigi de la tara yep on m'y truck we did each wheel twice in 40: min probably 10 ounces of fluid
Brake fluid can leak from the reservoir. It also attracts dirt. So i prefer to keep the tool clean.
The air that is being displaced at 5:00 would that trapped air from the brake fluid reaching the reservoir introduce that trapped air?
@Floyd. B exactly. Gravity keeps the air above the fluid in the reservoir (unless you run out of fluid in the tank). Even though the fluid and air are both pressurized, the air still make its way around and above the fluid (heavier than air). So you won't get bubbles in the system.
Great video. Purchased the bleeder from y’all. Thanks for the fast shipping. The product itself failed and will be returning it. The cap wasn’t able to be fitted on the bmc. Tried mitigating the issue a few times by tightening it a few times. No luck. Left a big brake fluid mess in my garage and in my engine bay. Thanks for the RMA. Will be returning it.
you need to stop using acronyms at odd places, this is a bad habit that is ok on live chat, but not on permanent text. You're obscuring the meaning of what you're trying to say.
@@goognamgoognw6637 im sure he meant break master cylinder??
@@adriandutkewych7669 yes, i see it know, thanks. I already bought the german bleeder other brand and used it. I was prepared for air leaks and It sure leaked at the master cylinder reservoir cap but i was able to make it air tight with plumber white tape. The only inconvenience is you are forced to not put any fluid in the bleeder tank itself (any leak would spill fluid instead of air) so you have to keep a careful watch on the master reservoir level make sure it never empties and each time you add fluid to it you are forced to remove the plumber tape and put new one to make the screw cap air tight again. It's not as much pain as it sound, and since you don't bleed brakes often. Bottom line this worked for me and i was satisfied to successfully bleed the brakes. I was less happy about dripping some fluid from the rear caliper on to my wood ramp. My advice is to not apply excessive force when screwing the cap on. It won't make it more airtight and you will only damage the thread. Just use plumber tape and start with moderate force and it'll be tight.
@@goognamgoognw6637 I believe I seen people remove the fluid from the reservoir then hook up the pressure bleeder empty to test that it holds pressure, when you confirm it holds pressure just release pressure and use with fluid.
@@barrysuss4421 Well not really, not without significant risk to spill fluid over your engine bay. I went through this so i can speak with assurance. The master cylinder reservoir plastic thread where you screw the bleeder pump on was never designed to hold the pressure needed to bleed brakes which is quite a lot of pressure. The soft plastic thread was only designed to hold the cap under no pressure. The way garages bleed brake is by suction at the caliper where the nipple thread is solid metal., this bleeder pump method is a bank saver but you have to be careful. Even if you test it without fluid and hear no air leak, it can start seeping fluid gradually. The plastic thread on the reservoir isn't very rigid, even if it does not leak at all in the first 2 min, as plastic deforms over time under pressure it can start seeping fluid gradually more and more. Yes, you may be able to do it with fluid in the bleeder but from what i saw, it's was not worth the risk of ruining my day. I got it done without spills and that's the right way in my opinion.
I don't know if there is a maximum known pressure limit to pump the pressure bleeder up to or not , but I never want to go above 15 psi. I am inclined to believe you could put too much pressure on the plastic master cylinder adapter caps. I made a homemade bleeder out of an $11 dollar garden sprayer. It works well. The guage cost around $15 dollars.
the actual DIY starts around 3:30
Thanks
Thank you very much for this beautiful information
Missing crucial step for BMWs, ista-d or diagnostic tool to start the dsc pump is required during bleeding to make sure all air gets out of the system. This is specified in the bentley bmw service manual and ista-d tool (which bmw shops use)
I cannot believe this, after a thorough homework online, nobody said this anywhere.... While bleeding my front brakes I got a ton of air bubbles... Could you provide me with a link to a tool that would get the job done for a 2018 M2 (F87)? Do you know how to get our hands on the service manual!? I cannot find it online.... If you reply, I REALLY appreciate the help man!
That makes sense but i've never seen this anywhere and hundred of people successfully bled their brakes (me included) themselves without doing this. This step might only be required if you entire system is empty of fluid.
Great video. If ECS did a full top to bottom how-to on cars I'd be first in line to buy the DVD.
Great video using pressure bleeder tool. Bought a pressure bleeder from your company and it work fantastic.
Plastic sheeting is best over paintwork then weigh down with cloths.....ive seen caps blow off and fluid can go everywhere and wsshing off doesnt cut it......
Yes this works but I wouldn't use that pvc cap unless the thread matches your master cylinder and if it is not then don't do it. It's much safer just to obtain the exact cap that fits and attach your tubing into it. Do not rely on tapes because brake fluid does melts all types of plastic that isn't intended to have contact with the brake fluid. Once you start building any pressure from the tank the fluid will leak out around the thread completely at a blink of an eye so I thought just a pre-caution.
i use sealing tape on the thread on the master cylinder reservoir and wrap it around at least twice. It does its job superbly, no leaking, and once I'm done bleeding it comes off the thread easily in one piece. No mess, no fuss.
crazy looking bong you use for removing the fluid haha
thought same thing lol
@@abbprrodriguez744 me too
I will be seeing this for my brakes and clutch.
I wish that bleeder was rated for more than 30PSI. FYI Mercedes requires bleeder to hold pressure between 2 and 3 bar (30-35 PSI) in order to bleed the SBC.
4:07 Nice Waterpipe!
Please note you MUST clean the power bleeder after use and flush it clean using mineral spirits including the hose. If you do not, the hoses will burst next time sending brake fluid everywhere. Ask me how I know. The brake fluid makes the rubber hoses weak.
Good tip, I wouldn't store fluid in it anyway, it builds up a small amount of pressure and pukes out small amounts of fluid making a huge mess.
Good thing they used a rubber that was degradable when in contact with brake fluid, the very liquid it’s supposed to be designed to be in contact with. Good job motive. Also, good job on not making a Honda adapter, only some square universal deal, with j-shaped screws and small toilet flapper chains and wingnuts. If I knew every adapter would be $30+, you couldn’t leave brake fluid in the brake fluid bleeding machine, and that they didn’t even HAVE an adapter for many cars, I wouldn’t have bought one.
It is better to use dish soap and water to clean the power bleeder and hose, no need to use toxic mineral spirit. The result will be the same.
How come he pumps air into the master cylinder at 5:06?
Showing you how to bleed the brakes starts at 3:38
Good man
Oops, oh dear. My system is way overdue. On the to do list come the weekend. Just before winter starts to kick in.
Clear and concise instructions, thank you for a easy to understand video!
CLEAR AND CONCISE - are you crazy??? This is a 7 minute video and he didn't start showing how to use the product until the 4 minute mark.
@@STBRetired1 you're wrong, I own the schwaben pressure bleeder and used it successfully thanks to this video including the intro. It's important to understand the brake system and why/how brakes are bled before getting into the pump product. You don't want to be a robot copying movements you've seen in a video without understanding the context and logic, because in practice it never goes as smoothly as in a video and your car setup might be different and you often have to make on the spot informed decisions which you cannot make without knowing more than the product.
So question here. Do you fill the brake fluid tank that’s in the car & then pump? Or do you leave the brake fluid tank empty then pump with the bleeder tank full?
Great Video Tutorial 👍🏽👍🏽 Thank you sir🙏🏾
I have one of bought the right cap. Thing won’t hold any pressure. Bought another brand bought the right cap won’t hold any pressure.
HI great vid, I would like to know on most pump bottles they require lubricating the rubber suction ring or piston rubber ring that is consealed in the long handle tube that draws the air in,so as part of the maintenance on the pump bottle the lubrican used for the piston ring wouldnt that contaminate the brake fluid,please advice.
Mike, you are smart to cover painted parts of car but unwise to use an absorbent cover. Rubber/vinyl cover for the fender at least. Hope there's no need to explain why. Otherwise, good demo.
Question that someone else asked down below. You emptied the reservoir completely before attaching the power bleeder cap to it. What about all the air that's now filling the reservoir? Is that air just being forced into the lines by the power bleeder? Where does the air go? The air has to go somewhere and you have no bleeders open. Sounds like your going to do more damage than good, like busting something out bleeder seals or line? Any thoughts
true if he empty the master cylinder he needs to use GT1 or iNPA to bleed ABS pump!
Pretty good, but my car brand just didn't show up in the buying option. Honda.
Great video! When bleeding is finished, and you disconnect the Power Bleeder, is the fluid level in the reservoir all the way up to the cap? To the point that the reservoir is going to overflow? Or does the level go down once you de-pressurize it and disconnect? I always thought the Power Bleeder used air pressure, but now I see that it uses brake fluid to pressurize the entire brake system.
There are two options you can use air pressure only from the tank or fill it with fluid like in this video. it is less risky to use only air from the tank (you risk nothing in case the adapter to reservoir leaks, some reservoir plastic is made of soft plastic with poor threads rigidity and can make a pressure tight connection difficult, use plumber white tape as a trick!) and it also is cleaner (nothing to clean) but the catch is you have to be vigilant and keep the reservoir filled and never let it empty below the min (when you open the bleed screw the fluid level will go down) otherwise you will pump air into the brake lines (and waste more fluid getting the air bubble out of the system all the way to the wheels bleeder screw).
So it's like this : When you pressurized the system, you open the bleeder screw which drains into the catchup bottle with old fluid but you tighten the screw back to check the level of the reservoir under the hood. You have to refill maybe 3 times per wheel which means, depressurizing, unscrewing the adapter cap from the reservoir refilling with fluid, putting the adapter cap back on, pressurizing the tank again and repeat.
It's slower and more work but much much safer (brake fluid leak from the reservoir will destroy sensors and damage paint finish)
In the other (riskier) method the tank is filled with fluid. The pressure in the bleeder tank bottle is made from air pumped atop the fluid. The tube infeed catches the bottom of the tank fluid so that only pressurized fluid flows to the reservoir. But the air initially in the reservoir and tank tube does not disappear it is actually compressed into the reservoir but gravity keeps it above new fluid coming from the pump (read that again it's a bit tricky).
When you are finished there is an air release valve on the bleeder that you press to depressurized it. You do that before disconnecting the reservoir, some fluid will flow backward into the bleeder tank because your whole brake system is still at +15+20 psi and your tank is now back to atmospheric pressure, until pressures equalize by themselves.
The air that was initially in the reservoir will still be there and should actually refill the tube so that there is no overflow when you physically disconnect the adapter from the reservoir (except for a film of fluid covering the inside of the tube due to viscosity that may drip a few droplets). Don't be frustrated if this is not straightforward to understand and visualize. It's actually quite tricky and you have to see it in action.
I’ve done this 20 million times and it won’t work for me. New brake booster, master cylinder, new calipers, rotors,pads you name it. Do a test for leaks and it holds pressure. So the bleeding according to manual of my Nissan 240sx 1993 which the sequence is different still did it in the order you did it and still getting a soft pedal. What else it could be?
can you guys post a video on how to completely flush power steering on e9x m3? with replacing the reservoir?
Very nice, but you have pressure test the seal to the cap of the brake reservoir first, disconnect the connection to the pump, then fill and proceed. A mess could be created otherwise.
I'd advise against using fluid in the tank, just use air only, and add more fluid in the reservoir during the bleeding process a few times. This eliminates the risk of spilling fluid.
Hmmm, not sure if I like this method or my pneumatic brake bleeder.
how much fluid i need to add into the bleeder to do all four sides, so basically you will see old fluid coming out and new comes in from the bleeder
Hi, is the bleeding procedure the same for vehicle with or without ABS? Thanks.
Just curious... You emptied the brake fluid reservoir and then hook up the Pressure bleeder which has no fluid in the rubber hose (and reservoir is still empty) so when you pressure up the Pressure Bleeder, you are now forcing the air that was in the hose (between screw on cap and new brake fluid) into the air only reservoir... Where does all this air go before the fluid from pressure bleeder enters the reservoir? Is it forced into the brake lines? There has to be a better way to avoid this air trapped into the Pressure Hose?
Excellent video, thanks. You have it all covered! 👍
Thank for posting.
Nice video!
Congratz to ECS!
Why is it necessary to bleed the wheels in a specific order if the use separate lines now. No modern car uses single brake lines anymore.
Very informative video, I still have an unopened liter bottle of SL6 fluid from when I did my 40k service on my MKV gti, I'm replacing my rotors and pads soon, will 1L be enough fluid for a brake flush?
I'm not a mechanic but 1L is plenty for most systems as far as I know. big BUT, if you overbleed the rears because you're too busy drinking your beer and it measuring the fluid coming out, you'll run out before you can do the rest of them. that's why i'd recommend using a collector bottle with volume measurements on there!
if you're really concerned you can find out the ~ exact fluid capacity somewhere but 1L should be good.
Can you use dot 5.1 if car has dot 3
Does it matter if the car is equipped with ABS,is there any extra steps on ABS equipped cars, like taking off the ABS relay as ive heard before.
does this pump get the trapped air out of the master cylinder?
Don't forget the clutch, if it works on the same fluid.
Any instructions on how to clean the Motive bleeder tank, lines?
Denatured alcohol. Put it 1/8 full. Swish it around and pump it out. There is probably a cheaper cleaning fluid but I don't use it enough to worry about finding one.
I'm using this bleeder to bleed my clutch. But when I crack the bleed screw open, hardly any fluid comes out. And it is up to the full level. Just doing a flush. Didnt change any components.
I only have one question. You emptied the reservoir completely before attaching the power bleeder cap to it. What about all the air that's now filling the reservoir? Is that air just being forced into the lines by the power bleeder? Where does the air go?
I wondered the exact same thing. I would have thought that you need to top up the reservoir with new fluid before attaching the pump, but the video doesn't show this.
That's why he said that it may take 2 bleeds. The air will escape into the first brake you bleed and the rest will be free and clear of air.
I noticed the same - it was probably an editing error. If you proceed exactly as per the video, you will force air through the system which is dumb. I suspect the correct procedure would be to use a turkey baster to remove most of the fluid and then top up about halfway. Then purge the air from the pressure bleeder prior to attaching it. This way, the increase in pressure within the reservoir will be cause only by fluid entering it and the air void above the fluid level will remain, albeit perhaps compressed and so a final top up needed on completion.
Only as much air as can fill the reservoir will occupy it at any given time. when you open a bleed screw the fluid level drops and more air will enter the reservoir. this constant pressure built up with a ample fluid level will put constant force and difference in potential
You are correct, the proper way to do this is unscrew fill reservoir to the top then connect bleeder cap and pump fresh fluid through, you will be pushing the fluid through without any extra air , idk why they didn’t mention it this way
Nice video for sure 👍. The power bleeder is cool but where did you get the cap to fit the BMW brake fluid bottle ????. This is a critical piece to maintain the seal . Please help
Have you got anything similar for coolant? I guess the same thing with a proper attachement for the coolant cap!
Look up “EPAuto Spill Proof Radiator Coolant Filling Funnel Kit” on Amazon. I just found out about this funnel through ChrisFix “fluid” videos.
I purchase this from ECS Tuning to bleed the brakes on a 09 VW Jetta.. I could not get a proper seal on the cap and had fluid spilling out everywhere..... very disappointed :(
I love your Video
It's very easy to understand
Thank You
Hope u make more lots of new videos
Sorry if im missing something but how do you get the old fluid out? Do i just force the new fluid in with the old or do i use the empty bleeder to push air through to emtpy existing fluid? Thanks for any help
if you empty the master cylinder you are in trouble becuase air will stuck in abs pump and without gt1 OR inpa YOU WILL STILL HAVE AIR IN ABS PUMP!
Thank you. Please continue to make good videos. I hope there is hope and peace in Ukraine
tell it to the united statian deep state who are supplying war weapons to prolong the war instead of doing the fighting themselves which they triggered. The usa got kicked out from Afghanistan like a stealing dog so they had to try to make Russia look bad to get even.
I wish ATE Super Blue was still available.
*****Agree 100%
Get 5.1
I think they are still up there, just gotta find them a bit.
Still is just with the dye removed.
Sorry, forgot to ask. I plan to also change my brake pads. Should I change the pads first then do the brake fluid flush? Or should I flush first, then change the pads? Thanks!
Lord Bacon - bleed is always the last step
okay thanks, Matt!
would this work If the system has air already?
I thought you don't want to take out all of the brake fluid in the master cylinder just some of it?
Great detailing well done
I think they have the wrong rotor on there. Looks like that slotted rotor should be on the drivers side
I used the same pressure bleeder Yet continued to get bubbles in the catch bottle line to the point we used a ridiculous amount of brake fluid and ended up giving up and bleeding using the 2 person method pumping and holding the pedal which worked out better
If you have a tube full of fluid leading downward in to a cup or other container the weight to the fluid in the tube will pull air past the threads of the bleed screw and out through the tube, it usually doesn't mean that there is any air in the system, the pressure pushes fluid out through the actual seat, the ir just comes in through the threads and out the side and center drilling in the bleed screw.
AS Pipe threads are tapered, if you see air bubbles, then you might have the bleeder open to far.
Try just cracking it open so fuld moves in the tube, it might take longer but you won't see as many bubbles, you can go to Vegas some other time to see bubbles! Just a duh Tip!
Change your blinker fluid too. And rotate your light bulbs.
because I think you were supposed to bleed the front left wheel to get the trapped air out of the master cylinder area. I did it like this and all the other wheels had no air.
Don't worry. It's probably the threads sucking air. Check the pedal. If it is firm, there is no air.
for proper way you how to use GT1 or INPA to bleed ABS since you first dry it!second might be bleder screw is coroted its good thing to unscrew the bleed screw and check if it or not!cleaned and put some teflon tape!
Thanks for the video.
How to clean the "power Bleeder" after use?
cordially
Romain.
---------
Merci pour la video.
Comment nettoyer le "power Bleeder" apres utilisation?
Cordialement
Romain.
The recommended method is to rinse the reservoir and hoses with denatured alcohol.
Exellent😊
What would be bleeding sequence for right hand drive vehicles?
What should the pressure (psi) be on the Motive power bleeder for a 2016 Audi S6?
Does universal cap work just as good
why do most people only bleed through the calipers and don't use that top pump thing on the master cylinder?
Because they decided not to buy one. Its a tool, you will get pretty much the same results with or without it. It is just far easier and faster with it
Is there one standard master cylinder cap that fits all ?
If your just changing the front calipers,do you have to bleed the calipers?
I see the bleeder and the smaller bottles on the website, but where can I find the tool that sucks up the old fluid? The tool that sorta looks like a bong.
Thank you very much for this video !!
Great job. I'll get this kit as well.
I’m already have that pump but where I can get the colored brake fluid ?
Avant de purger avec le power "bleeder", il faut que le liquide soit au niveau mini ou maxi dans le maitre cylindre?
-----------
Before bleeding with the power "bleeder", it is necessary that the liquid is ADD or FUll in the master cylinder?
Romain
Dans tous les cas commence par retirer autant de vieux fluide du resérvoir que possible. Puis travaille sans remplir la pompe de liquide et rempli uniquement le reservoir au niveau max si tu préfére ne pas prendre le risque d'une fuite au niveau de l'attachement entre le reservoir et le connecteur de la pompe, l'inconvenient est que tu vas devoir devisser pour re-remplir le reservoir et revisser la pompe plusieurs fois et surtout fait attention que le reservoir ne se vide pas entièrement . La deuxième alternative est de travailler avec la pompe remplie de fluide, dans ce cas tu procède de même au départ en vidant le réservoir du vieux fluide puis tu rajoute seulement un peu de nouveau fluide avant d'attacher la pompe, pas besoin dans ce cas de remplir le reservoir jusqu'au maxi.
Hi Mike,
On the way home my brake went to the floor. I was able to stop & when I got home I found the break line leaking. I cut out the leak & replaced broken stretch using a double flare fitting. When I pumped the brake it had pressure after the 3rd pump & then to the floor. I checked underneath and found that I had another leak. But I still had some brake. I made sure that I did not let it go completely dry. I know that I have to bleed all the lines, but after repairing that leak I now had no brake. I did some line repair before but never had no brake before bleeding, poor brake yes but at least some brake. My question is would air in the line cause no brake or do you think something else may be the problem? ABS? Thanks in advance for any help you can .
Can't ever bleed brakes right with the vacuum bleeder method
i hung my pressurized bleeder bottle high to keep from pumping air into master cylinder
Do you guys sell the cap fitting separately for a BMW reservoir? I bought the pump and parts but lost the hose and other items..
Is the evacuator necessary?
Does this bleed the clutch?
Yes
Stunning video
Excellent Video Bro!!
Is it crucial to have an airtight connection at the bleeding valve side by the calipers?
I was thinking since the system is pressurized I could in theory just open the bleeder nut and let it flow all over the place.
Sometimes I see people having filled the bleeder bottle with brake fluid but I don't see how it would make any difference with a product like the power bleeder that pressurizes the system.
People are filling the bleeder bottle usually when bleeding the brakes manually with the pedal.
They doing that way because when the pedal is released and the pressure drops, the bleeding valve won't suck air into the system.
But with this continues pressurized system it's not necessary.
i just bleeding the brake system(by power bleeder)but the bleeder can not push the old fluid of the rear wheel like the front one(the fluid only dripping) even i pumped the bleeder near 19 psi
Did you ever figure out what was wrong?
Try pumping the brakes a few times before bleeding, with the car turned off to release the residual vacuum in the brake booster
Thank you for the video, thumbs up
Very helpful! Thanks!
Can you reverse bleed a 2013 Tiguan?
brake fluid hydrophilic, air has moisture
One wouldn't really need to extract old fluid from the reservoir first at 4:00 right? If I were to simply push all that old fluid through that would work too right? Also how does the pressure bleeder not pump air through the system?
+YZRandomE It draws the brake fluid from the bottom of the container with the air pressure on top. If you let it go dry, yes it will fill the system with air.
+bitbiter What about the air between the tank and the reservoir? Before the fluid in the tank can flow through the hose to reach the reservoir, the air need to be pushed to the reservoir, then down the brake line, correct?
+Kevin L I was thinking the same thing but I think I worked out the answer... It's fine for a little air to run into the reservoir as the air will pressurise the system from above. Then when the new fluid reaches reaches the reservoir, it tops the level up without the air ever getting trapped in the system.
Does it take long to pump up to 10 psig?
A 7 minute video but the instructions don't start until the 4 minute mark. Plus, how about using CLEAR tubing instead of WHITE tubing so you can see the color and clarity of the brake fluid and the bubbles more clearly.