Extrem tolles Video. Gerade die Versuche und die sauberen gut nachvollziehbaren Erläuterungen der Ergebnisse , absolut Spitze. Das ist Generell in allen Videos immer ein Genuss. Macht Spaß so an der Entwicklung teilhaben zu können/dürfen.
I think shrink-tubing the heatsink caused it to overheat. Tubing restricts airflow, and is probably also opaque to IR. Is there any way to expose the fins without exposing the PCB, like potting but preferably less irreversible? The weight saving is indeed considerable.
I had the same response when seeing the heat shrink go onto the ESC. There are epoxy based thermal transfer compounds which could work to hold the heatsink to the FETs instead.
G’day and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 what a beautiful workshop, the way that your building this Harrier is something else I’m 65 years old and for us years ago it was balsa and thin wood this is something else. The only thing that I’m wondering about is there is no give in the fuselage but it is incredibly strong. Thank you for doing the building videos they are very interesting, Kind regards John
Hallo Rene, echt coole Sachen die du machst. Ich drucke persönlich gerade eine Mig 15 und muss sagen das ich ein paar Tipps von dir auf jeden Fall übernehmen werde
@@renerosentraeger what do you recommend as a proxxon model similar to the dremel 3000? I've had 1 proxxon but it broke, the motor still spins, but the tip with the tool on seems to be connected to the motor with a very weak clutch: the tool on the tip turns at the same speed of the motor if I'm not using it, but as soon as I try to cut something or drill a hole, the friction makes the rotating bit stop, while the motor is still going. As if there was a small clutch connecting the tip and the electric motor
René, As always, super nice progress again! I was wondering, what kind of slicing software are you using? I noticed you have alot of stringing in your lw-pla print, what kind of retraction settings do you use? Cheers
Referring to the stabilizers and tail, did you ever tought of printing, besides the "adirectional" infill in the internal structure, also some reinforcements more similar to spars and ribs(so that you maybe won't have to use an adjunctive spar to put in the part)to increase the resistance to the flessional and torsional stresses on the parts and take the maximum advantage from the 3d printing technique in terms of having the best combination of stiffness and lightness? Maybe some FEM analysis on the parts could help on this
Würde mich interessieren wie das Gyroid Seitenruder mit Harzmantel im direkten Vergleich gegen über den vorherigen Mustern abschneidet. Da gab es ja einen schönen Test zu. Noch mal , Top Videos Danke.
The wing spars were covered in a clear heat shrink before the epoxy was set. I'm surprised the CF and glass didn't bunch up? Also, its not clear to me if the covering was removed? I have liked to see this.
Klasse Rene ! Weiter so... bald ist es Zeit, dass ich Deine STL-Files kaufe - werden dort die neuesten Erkenntinisse immer upgedated, sodass man beim Kauf auf dem neuesten Stand Deiner Technik ist ;) ?
Rene - sorry if you have covered this before, but what is your thinking behind going with 2 engines rather than one much larger fan (or concentric fans)?
The reasons are: Bettler air inlet without EDF shadowing…Then weight to thrust ratio, which is better with two EDF‘s…Third reason is space Management within the fuselage…👍🏻
@@RC-Jetprint Thanks Siggi. I asked because I recall a comment in Sir Stanley Hooker's book about seeking greater thrust for an improved Harrier and the calculations showing that they needed a bigger fan 1st stage (for which there was insufficient space in the fuselage). I appreciate that air does conveniently scale down and behave as it does at full size but the principle of a single fan being able to move more air mass than multiple smaller ones would seem to remain valid. I had guessed that the reason might be one of gyroscopic balance, but I guess I was wrong. Do the 2 fans rotate in opposite directions by the way? Fascinating project and very enjoyable to follow.
@@zg8626 Thanks for that mentioning….I have done lots of tests with a single EDF in a Harriet fuse and can say that, because of the after curved ductings you have to make sure that you try to always have enough air in front of the EDF that is constantly there…we are not for air speed but for air pressure..
@@zg8626 …and yes…the EDF‘s are counterrotating to avoid an induced momentum that would come from a single rotating EDF and would have to be stabilised afterwards👍 If we can use the independent EDF‘s for stabilisation itsself? The future will show us…From my feeling it is possible….But you will need very fast boards for that…😉
I think the main reason why the real Harrier would be more efficient with a larger first stage fan is, that it has a bypass jet engine and not an EDF. With a bypass jet engine you try to have as much cold air (bypass air and bypass ratio) as possible, because of the higher density which means it's more mass being moved, which results in more thrust. With an EDF you only have the cold air so there is no bypass ratio. I hope you understand what I try to say xD
Hey, i am alsow 3D-Printing lightweight Airfoils for a solar Airplane. Imfound this amazin Filament. Its already prefoamed and has a Density of 0.8g/cm^3 instead of the 1.24 of normal PLA. Polymaker makes it. The Benefit is, that you can print it nearly like normal PLA, so much lese Stringing.
Servus aus Bayern! könntest du vielleicht bitte deine LW-PLA Settings teilen? Aktuell drucke ich erfolgreich bei 220C und 60C Bett, aber in dem Video hast du sogar bei 22C beim Bett keine Probleme.. hält es echt so gut bei so einem kalten Bett? - zugegeben, beim Abziehen hält es noch bei 30°C sehr gut.. Wie schnell druckst du es? Welche Layerstärke für Avionics? Danke im Voraus!
Wow, This is amazing to watch your progress. Great project, great video. Nice work Rene. Looking forward to the the next video. Thanks
Yeah, see ya mate😊👍
Keep this awesome and clean job on the line ! . In redible rene ! You make us really excited watching all of the progress .
Many thanks mate! 😊👍👍
Man your work is meticulous. I love it!
Thx mate 😁👍👍
Extrem tolles Video. Gerade die Versuche und die sauberen gut nachvollziehbaren Erläuterungen der Ergebnisse , absolut Spitze. Das ist Generell in allen Videos immer ein Genuss. Macht Spaß so an der Entwicklung teilhaben zu können/dürfen.
Danke für das tolle Feedback👍
Nice mate….It was a cool and effective weekend at your awesome workshop….Thanks for that….👍🏻
😁👍👍👍
Very interesting! Thank you for your updates! 😎
Always welcome 😉👍
Rene I must say that You are my inspiration, as always Very interesting and helpfull video!!!
It's a pleasure for me, thx mate👍👍
great job, one step further to our traget 😊
That is the point 🚀✨
I think shrink-tubing the heatsink caused it to overheat. Tubing restricts airflow, and is probably also opaque to IR. Is there any way to expose the fins without exposing the PCB, like potting but preferably less irreversible? The weight saving is indeed considerable.
Absolutely! The last word on the ESC choice is not spoken 😁👌
I had the same response when seeing the heat shrink go onto the ESC.
There are epoxy based thermal transfer compounds which could work to hold the heatsink to the FETs instead.
G’day and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 what a beautiful workshop, the way that your building this Harrier is something else I’m 65 years old and for us years ago it was balsa and thin wood this is something else. The only thing that I’m wondering about is there is no give in the fuselage but it is incredibly strong. Thank you for doing the building videos they are very interesting, Kind regards John
You're welcome John🙌
Hallo Rene, echt coole Sachen die du machst. Ich drucke persönlich gerade eine Mig 15 und muss sagen das ich ein paar Tipps von dir auf jeden Fall übernehmen werde
Sehr gut😁👍👍
awesome !!! You have so many proxxon tools!!
Love these 😊👌
@@renerosentraeger what do you recommend as a proxxon model similar to the dremel 3000? I've had 1 proxxon but it broke, the motor still spins, but the tip with the tool on seems to be connected to the motor with a very weak clutch: the tool on the tip turns at the same speed of the motor if I'm not using it, but as soon as I try to cut something or drill a hole, the friction makes the rotating bit stop, while the motor is still going. As if there was a small clutch connecting the tip and the electric motor
René,
As always, super nice progress again! I was wondering, what kind of slicing software are you using?
I noticed you have alot of stringing in your lw-pla print, what kind of retraction settings do you use?
Cheers
Hi, I'm using Cura. Yes retraction is 0 to avoid plugging on the nozzle.
Referring to the stabilizers and tail, did you ever tought of printing, besides the "adirectional" infill in the internal structure, also some reinforcements more similar to spars and ribs(so that you maybe won't have to use an adjunctive spar to put in the part)to increase the resistance to the flessional and torsional stresses on the parts and take the maximum advantage from the 3d printing technique in terms of having the best combination of stiffness and lightness? Maybe some FEM analysis on the parts could help on this
Yeah, we will check different ways of construction 👍👍
Würde mich interessieren wie das Gyroid Seitenruder mit Harzmantel im direkten Vergleich gegen über den vorherigen Mustern abschneidet. Da gab es ja einen schönen Test zu. Noch mal , Top Videos Danke.
Danke😊👍 Diese Tests werden folgen.
The 3D printed infill you used is very intriguing. Is that a proprietary infill or something open source you can elaborate on?
On most slicers it's integrated... So open source.
The ceiling mounted tool racks are interesting. How do you like them?
Very much 😁👌
The wing spars were covered in a clear heat shrink before the epoxy was set. I'm surprised the CF and glass didn't bunch up? Also, its not clear to me if the covering was removed? I have liked to see this.
Klasse Rene ! Weiter so... bald ist es Zeit, dass ich Deine STL-Files kaufe - werden dort die neuesten Erkenntinisse immer upgedated, sodass man beim Kauf auf dem neuesten Stand Deiner Technik ist ;) ?
what if use 200A or 300A light weight ESC ? so it won't overheated and lighter
To you have a link to that guys?
Rene - sorry if you have covered this before, but what is your thinking behind going with 2 engines rather than one much larger fan (or concentric fans)?
The reasons are: Bettler air inlet without EDF shadowing…Then weight to thrust ratio, which is better with two EDF‘s…Third reason is space Management within the fuselage…👍🏻
@@RC-Jetprint Thanks Siggi. I asked because I recall a comment in Sir Stanley Hooker's book about seeking greater thrust for an improved Harrier and the calculations showing that they needed a bigger fan 1st stage (for which there was insufficient space in the fuselage). I appreciate that air does conveniently scale down and behave as it does at full size but the principle of a single fan being able to move more air mass than multiple smaller ones would seem to remain valid. I had guessed that the reason might be one of gyroscopic balance, but I guess I was wrong. Do the 2 fans rotate in opposite directions by the way?
Fascinating project and very enjoyable to follow.
@@zg8626 Thanks for that mentioning….I have done lots of tests with a single EDF in a Harriet fuse and can say that, because of the after curved ductings you have to make sure that you try to always have enough air in front of the EDF that is constantly there…we are not for air speed but for air pressure..
@@zg8626 …and yes…the EDF‘s are counterrotating to avoid an induced momentum that would come from a single rotating EDF and would have to be stabilised afterwards👍 If we can use the independent EDF‘s for stabilisation itsself? The future will show us…From my feeling it is possible….But you will need very fast boards for that…😉
I think the main reason why the real Harrier would be more efficient with a larger first stage fan is, that it has a bypass jet engine and not an EDF.
With a bypass jet engine you try to have as much cold air (bypass air and bypass ratio) as possible, because of the higher density which means it's more mass being moved, which results in more thrust. With an EDF you only have the cold air so there is no bypass ratio. I hope you understand what I try to say xD
Hey, i am alsow 3D-Printing lightweight Airfoils for a solar Airplane. Imfound this amazin Filament. Its already prefoamed and has a Density of 0.8g/cm^3 instead of the 1.24 of normal PLA. Polymaker makes it. The Benefit is, that you can print it nearly like normal PLA, so much lese Stringing.
Great! Thx a lot for that hint😊👍👍
Ist es gewollt, dass der Titel "Deutsch" lautet? Oder steht das nur bei mir?
Tolles Video auf jeden Fall.
Hey danke für den Hinweis und ein gesundes Neues! Das lag anscheinend an einer Untertiteleinstellung, jetzt sollte es wieder passen.
@@renerosentraeger alles klar, ganz vergessen, dir natürlich auch ein frohes Neues xD
👍🏻
love from Bangladesh.
Kind regards from Berlin 👍👍
Интересно. Привет из Сургута
Servus aus Bayern!
könntest du vielleicht bitte deine LW-PLA Settings teilen?
Aktuell drucke ich erfolgreich bei 220C und 60C Bett, aber in dem Video hast du sogar bei 22C beim Bett keine Probleme.. hält es echt so gut bei so einem kalten Bett? - zugegeben, beim Abziehen hält es noch bei 30°C sehr gut..
Wie schnell druckst du es? Welche Layerstärke für Avionics?
Danke im Voraus!
Schau mal bei den Su, Harrier und LW-PLA tutorials vorbei👍
Schade, schon wieder in Englisch
Bald gib es Untertitel😊👍