how on earth you gonna attach a good motor and then be like "let me know if you want me to do it" but i guess it got engagement out of me. so well played
Heck yes I want my computer to sound like a big supercharged V8... Sadly this is not a gimmick comment I would be completely amused to hear it ramp up when cooling requires it.
few things.. 1. Defiantly want to see twin screw on this! 2. There is a plugin for fusion 360 to make herringbone gears which are quieter, stronger, and are self aligning (ill try and find the link if you want it) 3. is there a way you can measure static pressure of fans?
@@stephen1r2 mount the fan to an air tight box and a U shaped tube with one end inside and one end outside. Like they did on Mythbusters once I think in the episode where they tested if someone could accidentally run through an office tower window. In that they put a window on the box and pulled negative pressure to simulate the fact an office tower has positive pressure and since they threw the dummy at the outside of the box they had to pull vacuum. But the way they measured the pressure since no gauge went low enough was a U shaped tube full of food colored water and marked inch measurements on it with a sharpie.
@@stephen1r2 pitot tubes measure total pressure but can also measure static. be careful repeating things gamersnexus says. he is very smart but even he admits that his air flow tunnel is new to him and all the tech (if 80s tech is still tech lol) it has he has had to learn about.
I'm an engineer and I can tell you there is a very good reason why "twisted rotors" as you put it have a major advantages... they are worse at slow start up speeds, needing at lot more torque to get them staerted but after that as long as they are precision made they will far outweigh a standard rotor in performance AND longevity! Edit: I doubt a 3D-printer could reach that level of tolerance needed for a twister rotor to work.... still your not one to back down from a challenge 😀
This is it, a twisted asymmetrical rotors are way better; BUT, the tolerances they require are far too much for any 3D printer. I think it would probably have much worse performance out of a 3D printer.
I use to build these types of blowers at my old job. You do want tighter clearances and also the gears on the end would be timing gears. You would probly want to use some sort of SHIM to get your clearance to set it up . When a blower is timed correctly it really does make a unique noise. almost like bubbles underwater
Couple things.. 1. PLEASE USE THE FASTER MOTOR. I want to see what airflow it makes and the smoke test. 2. You should find a way to measure static pressure (future video project?) I also was really impressed with how smooth the air was coming out the bottom.
A pro-tip: make a 2" in. tall plenum chamber that goes between the blower and the rad, so the pressure equalizes across the face of the radiator. Makes it more efficient!
With this very modular construction, that should be easily doable while not having to redo so much. Also since finned radiators force airflow directionality, I think a lot of potential is lost here due to airflow only really passing through a rather narrow section of the radiator's exposed surface. There's a _very_ unfavorable efficiency curve at play here because of this. Using said chamber to even out pressure and spread the output area, will IMO greatly improve that. This is also why most decent quality (PC water cooling) radiators have 0.5-1 cm of clearance between the frame/cowling the fan(s) frame mate to, and the radiator fins. To reduce airflow dead zones. There's a reason why the near-universal standard for more/better cooling capacity is _more radiator surface_ (and more/larger fans to cover the increased area, unless it's a passive setup) - and rather rarely "improved" through faster and higher static pressure fans for the same radiator, unless there's just no more space available. Heck this is also why if you for instance double radiator surface area, you can usually get substantially better cooling performance even with less _combined_ airflow and fan power consumption from the scaled-up setup (for instance 240mm rad with 2x lazy, slow spinning 120mm fans), than with the smaller and less performant setup (120mm rad and 1x aggressive, fast spinning 120mm fan). TL;DR More radiator surface area getting airflow throughput, is substantially superior to higher airflow throughput through the same radiator surface area.
Pressure. Static pressure. This charger can blow through multiple dense radiators. I vote for pressurising everything in one tube! That's where it will shine
@@buildingsalvage id say just let the 1000 rpm motor run for a while. thats really not all that fast and prolly wont heat it up too much. just a theory though.
I love the fact at 14:08 he leaned back and as far as he could from the blower, while keeping the remote firmly planted on the table like it's nailed down.
Add some low-friction tape to the sides until things start rubbing, then remove a layer there. This should create a much more solid seal and beef up those numbers!
The biggest problem with this design was the geartrain. Make more robust gears that maximize torque from the motor in the efficient speed range of the rotors, and it seems like it'd be able to move relatively astronomical amounts of air.
@@ButterfatFarms obviously his goal was to make a device that moves air, so it stands to reason that he would want it to move as much air as possible, as that would match the trend of this channel. The point you're not getting is that this is a fun project, and believe it or not, it's fun to make "useless" things work well. Besides, you don't know that strapping it to a lawn mower won't actually increase power because you haven't tried it.
_"The biggest problem with this design was the geartrain."_ You do realise the gear train does nothing but synchronise the rotors? It doesn't offer any speed reduction or increase.
@@ButterfatFarms the goal is to make a cool supercharger model out of plastic that moves some air, and if possible move as much air as possible. No noise concerns, no efficiency concerns, no pressure requirements. It's a fun stupid project and that's the best part of it.
@@ButterfatFarms you get it! These projects are fun to tinker with just because. And I agree that the biggest problem right now is the broken motor mount, lol
One thing that might help you get tighter clearance is to print slightly oversized to where certain things are just barely rubbing together. Then run at a lower RPM for several hours so the parts wear in. Also I would LOVE to see a large one of these designed for a 360mm radiator!
Good idea, if the compound of the screws is the same compound as the housing is can wear the housing in some too. This will still creat a tighter tolerance but will compromise the shape of the housing, another way to get a tighter tolerance is to use gear marking compound, and cover the screws in it, install and spin them a few times. Take the screws out and check for wear, do a light sand on the spots that have the marking compound rubbed off. Than cover the sanded areas in marking compound again and repeat. You do this until the tolerance is perfect, you just have to be care not to go overboard with the sanding.
a thing i do when I want tight tolerances between parts is to again print them a bit too tight but then use one of those kitchen dish soaps with like a sand in it and it turns out it works very well as a mild abrasive
Straight blades will never seal unless he uses Teflon inserts, if he went with the twisted screw he could have done a knife edge tip to get maximum efficiency and tighter tolerances.
@@RaTsAk-y1t but idk how well the 3d printed plastic is able to withstand those forces in the screw shape. The lobe shape is more resistant to deformation
Maaaaaaaan, this tickles all the right spots!! I'm a former mechanic, with some experience with forced induction... this is such a cool little idea. Lots of refinement required, but you are on track with that fast rpm motor. I think I'm gonna try something like this myself, but with aluminum housing and printed rotors. Great video!!!
I would say bulk up the motor mount and increase the size of the whole unit so the opening at the bottom fully covers the 240mm rad (it is the right ratio). Also, print a very, very slight interference fit and wear it in, then grease the gear teeth and the rotors lightly to seal better and not wear too fast. That should be a killer setup.
This is really awesome, would be amazing if you could get it close to full scale. Then hit up Jayztwoscents and see if you could combine this with his motor pc case idea. I'm sure it would give him the boost to restart that case mod and you two would make an awesome colab.
as an RC-guy: probably your servo tester does work, but to inicialise the ESC, it must be in "the center position"... now the RC-Radio had defenetly not the same center position as the servo tester... so I would suggest to relearn your ESC to the Servo tester, usually thats done by pressing the setup button whil powering on and then netural, full forward, full reverse... it will give you a few happy beeps and after initialising in the center again, it should response to throttle inputs. And if you repair your rustler... use RPM parts, even if not as shiny as aluminium arms etc... aluminium bends and stays... plastic bends back! therefore every part that gets impacted shall be plastic, the one only stressed in one way (shock towers etc) can be aluminium or carbon... Have fun ;-)
This is probably my favorite thing I have seen on you channel so far. My passion for cars meets my new passion for PCs. I definitely want to see more variations this design.
Roots blowers (positive displacement blowers) don't compress air, they just speed it up, it's compressed when it's rammed into the intake manifold. All roots blowers have an optimal Delta P where the rotors can no longer prevent sufficient air from leaking back into the blower and just getting heated up. Twin screw actually do compress air as it's pushed through the twin screw. For what it's wroth, modern roots blowers have an ablative coating that breaks in so they actually kind of touch. The better the seal, the more efficient the blower and higher the delta P. It's not the only factor, rotor geometry and size are also a factor. Most blowers have a coupler between the snout drive and the rotor pack that is designed to break in the event that the rotors ingest something that jams them to minimize damage. I have a blown car that runs on alcohol :D Edit, if you had either Gemini gears or helical gears will help reduce the noise, but in your case I think a lot of the noise is from the rotors kind of clunking around.
I read your whole comment thinking "oh man this is a backyard warrior who understood about 10% of an internet article" and then I saw your last comment about having a blown car on alcohol and knew I nailed it. BTW, by your reasoning nothing builds pressure but rather speeds it up. actual answer, a blower does compress air. it has a flow vs pressure chart at several speeds. if an engine has massive valves or tons of lift, the blower will flow more air at less pressure assuming everything else about the two cases are the same. point being, no compressor can build pressure without some restriction. lastly, compressors some times slow the velocity of air.
@@cbrunnem6102 _" actual answer, a blower does compress air"_ Incorrect, a roots type blower is simply an air pump. It _does not_ internally compress the air which is why they have fairy poor efficiency for supercharger applications. Conceptually it's similar to a gear style pump, which also doesn't compress anything.
Put your gears in double shear with another bearing behind them, it will help quite a bit with the high speed stability. The meshing of the gears is one of the most important parts of a supercharger. Having the timing off by even a little bit can cause catastrophic failure in the rotors.
This design is so great! I want to see how it performs against the others in the full fan test at a higher RPM, too! I so badly want to see the smoke test at full throttle!
Suggestions: Center mount the motor and use a toothed belt. With proper tension this will give better energy transfer than gears. You should be able to print the belt from TPU. Also, if you are wanting to move air more so than compress it you might consider some hybrid design, like a linear blower wheel for the impellers.
considering the outlet hole you have on the blower you might want to turn it sideways on the radiator or create an interface plate with vanes to guide the air across the entire radiator area instead of just that narrow path in the middle. on top of that it would only be fair to spin the blower a 3000rpm just like the noctua fan.
Yes, I want to see that! Also, try mounting it so that the motor gear meshes with the drive gears. That may provide a better functionality for the setup.
I just bought a twin screw Whipple Supercharger for my 90's Plymouth minivan last week. Wish I'd known then that I could have saved thousands of dollars by 3D printing it myself...
@@zmaster1481 minivans have very little engine compartment space front to back, left to right. But, they have a ridiculous amount of room vertically. I put a 2010 Dodge Charger V6 stroked out to 4.0L and an AWD transmission into my van, that engine is about twice the external size of my original engine. Theres about a foot between the top of the engine and the hood, and 2 feet from the transmission to the hood.. I could definitely fit another engine on top of the transmission and a transmission on top of the engine.
As a final "fix" before you test into destruction, try making the rotor-rotor & rotor-case airtight. Coat everything inside with epoxy and run it slow (~1 rpm) for 2 hours. The epoxy will fill the spaces and cure but the motion will not let it settle where it has interference. Should quiet it down too. Once the insides get solid, clean off the entry & exit areas with acetone. Afterward, you should be able to run at somewhat higher speeds combined with a positive displacement pump, which yields a more even higher pressure presented to the input side of the radiator.
Worm gears were a mistake. Those are driven from a worm screw. That's why it looked like they were trying to walk apart. Needed regular gears. Very cool though.
The mount broke because you're essentially backing off that screw in the main rotor which puts pressure back on the motor itself inside the coupler. Try to move the motor mount to the other side or use reverse threaded screw on that rotor so that you tighen it with the rotation of the motor. Hope that makes sense :)
For best performance with rc motor I would suggest redesigned lobes with slots for tpu gaskets then you wouldn't need such close tolerance because the gaskets would seal then add some spray silicone to everything before assembly, also reccomend sanding(4000grit) and polishing all internal parts for as smooth a surface as possible to reduce drag and lastly I would love to see a 360mm version, that would look amazing sitting on top of a custom hot rod case
As a PC guy, car guy, as well as R/C car guy.... I absolutely want to see more of this setup!! If that is a 3s rated ESC it will absolutely handle the 12v from your power supply. A full charged 3s is 12.6V the 11.1V that's printed on the 3s pack is the full dead voltage.
also your gears looked to be worm gears you also called them that. a worm gear is not what you want here. A worm gear has a hallow to it to fit against another round gear at a 90* angle. You need just a standard spur gear for your application.
Man I'd love to see a flap on the intake, like the one on a car blower (the one that regulates how much air can enter). I think it could even be tied to the cpu temp, maybe together with the motor speed :D
I always hated how quiet my PC was, now whenever I'm gaming I get to hear that satisfying whine as the turbos spin up! (yeah yeah, I know it's a super not a turbo)
"Lemme know if that's something you wanna see" Yes we do want to see you make a thicker mount and absolutely yeeet it!😂 Also, maybe provide dimensions for the screw fans so people can design different variations that fit in the casing and maybe improve the noise and airflow of the supercharger cooler, would be interesting to see what ingenuity people can bring to this and see if we can get the thing to climb the leader board
That looks so cool, literally! But did anyone else flinch at the cracking engine mount, engine pulled off and the start with loose bits still attached? Looking forwards to see the different ideas and modifications on the original concept!
This is AWESOME!!! Would love to see you push this concept further and see the potential. This is way more fun than a pc fan concept has any right to be, but i'm here for it!!
I went to diesel tech school and I worked on my fair share of roots blowers for old Detroit Diesel engines, this looks almost identical to those, (even the color of the housing is close) but I think something you are missing that might increase the air pressure and in turn increase the output is by lubricating the rotors, the oil acts as a seal more air can be pushed in without having any leaks, might not be much of a difference but that’s something the real blowers have depending on application, you could also run a turbo into the blower to get more airflow. Cool build I’d like to see what else it can do, and also it sounds shockingly similar to a real roots blower which are loud and obnoxious, impressed at how quiet this is
I would love to see a twin screw version, a better motor, and a tighter fitting (but smooth) design-as other comments suggested using a lapping compound and letting it run to have it make itself more efficient (and I'd assume it would make it quieter too.
On top of beefing up the motor mount/joint method I would suggest helical rotors with nylon seal strip along the outermost edge of the lobes like they use in real life superchargers. I would actually suggest using plastic welding strips as they are cheap and easy to find on amazon, etc. The helical lobes combined with the seal strips would make both air delivery smoother as well as reduce rotor induced vibration as the lobes would be resisting the motor equally at all angles instead of just two like with the straight cut lobes. using the nylon would also dramatically reduce the contact patch size along with the ability of air to sneak past the rotors like I imagine it would be doing in the current iteration.
squeezing more out of the bearings and seals is tough but there are ways . Greasing the bearings with a performance grease and lube the gearing and blower with graphite powder based grease. everything will move a bit smoother and seal just a bit better depending on the powdered grease.
This is pretty cool! I'd definitely like to see one or two more iterations of this. Maybe doing a twin screw or even just twisted roots would help push the air towards the back of the housing better. Also I just think it would be cool to see it fit onto a 240MM radiator properly. Finally, superchargers are designed to run at a higher rpm than the crank of a motor, what would a 240MM supercharger with a 10k rpm motor do?
I'm not reading through 2k comments to check if this has been said already; but the tolerances between the rotors and the casing walls are very important to a roots blower making above atmospheric pressure. As it stands it will move air, but if you want positive displacement then you need to tighten up the gaps. Might even consider designing a 'seal' at the apex of each rotor lobe (oh that's why they are called apex seals on a rotary engine) to wear into the housing and opposing rotor; however if the tolerance isn't the same between the rotors and housing it will be an issue. And it would be cool to do a little video about how you design the helical twist into the rotors in Fusion360 or FreeCAD. Maybe print a few different rotation percentages to see if it has any effect on the flow... careful you may discover why Eaton has settled on the designs they have for their line of roots and TVS superchargers. Nearly every vehicle I own ether has or had forced induction - just not my PC builds... yet...
Very cool! I'd like to see this go further. Stronger motor mount, twin screw, tighter tolerances, etc. Air flow testing with the brushless motor would be pretty interesting.
Superchargers really excell at static pressure, the thicker the radiator you can bolt it to the better And heck yes we would love to see some different blower types tested!!!
Yep this should be able to produce 100x the static pressure of a regular fan. So it should be able to push some serious airflow trough the thickest and densest of radiators.
Maybe a thrust bearing of some kind at either end of the Rotors would help with noise and movement. Also just lubrication of some kind incase of contact
Lubrication for the gears isn't a bad idea, maybe silicone grease. Any lubrication inside the compressor housing would get thrown out and into the radiator.
Put butterflies in the scoop and run it to a servo splitter for the esc, so when you rev it, it opens up! Also could you run a program so it turn on like a computer fan when it gets to temp?
Servos and PWM fans use the same type of signal, I don't know if they're actually compatible but I wouldn't be surprised if you could just drive a servo or ESC directly off a 4 pin fan header. Worst case, it'd be trivial to make a little microcontroller board to convert between the two.
I have never seen your channel before but im so glad this popped up! two things i love in the world, cars and pc's. if you want more static pressure try a twin screw blower instead of the roots blower, or go for a procharger design, basically a crank powered turbo. Absolutely subscribing and cant wait for more!
Decibel budget ? Yes. Be careful when you're playing with high RPM, your eyes and teeth won't stop a metal rod flying at this speed without harm. Nice video as usual
roots blowers were designed to do exactly this, so its great to se one at this scale. with some refinement it would be ineresting to see how good yours can get, it would also be cool to see one stretched out on a 240 mm or even a 480mm radiator. i bet it would work swimmingly if you have the time.
Someone probably said it already but roots positive displacement superchargers don't actually compress air, that's why they're called blowers. You should definitely try the twisted lobes too. Cant wait to hear that thing whine.
The meshing of the gears - one of the most important parts of a supercharger, having the timing off by even a little bit can cause catastrophic failure in the rotors.
I think that you made the right choice with the charger type. Generally a twin screw compresses air. Meanwhile the roots just shoves as much air as possibble and it ends up compressing due to the excess of air, and since the pressure doesnt matter here its better.
Just wanna point out that there is no physical difference between "compressing" and "shoving as much air as possible until it compresses". They are the same process. Yes a screw type squeezes the air between the screws whereas a roots type moves the air in a comparatively large channel around the outside, but the volume opens up again once the air leaves the blower and enters the intake runners. From the perspective of the engine, or in this case a radiator, the two processes might as well be identical
This is completely awesome. I love superchargers. I'd love to see twin screws, I think they'd be more efficient. It seems that the motor mount could use a few more arms for stability, it's vibrating around a lot, which is inefficient and could lead to failure. (HA, wrote this before the motor swap) Didn't know about this type of geared motor. It would be perfect for a future project I want to do. Your link to the motor is the inserts.
This would be cool to continue different designs with. Maybe you can find a way to adapt the slip clutch from the rustler if you want to keep using the mamba, or make your own step up gear box so the 1000rpm is more effective.
use a worm drive (big gear left, worm in the middle, big gear on the right) or use a mini timing belt like a T5 (they come in any width you need them in) and serpentine the belt under and over the 2 roots gears and down or to one side for the motor to drive it from.
You can improve the 'seal' between the rotors if you cut length-wise grooves on the outer surface of the lobes. Grooved lobes 'grab' the air as it tries to slip past, smooth lobes let air blow by. Doesn't make much difference at higher speeds, but it makes a huge improvement when 'idling'. The only advantage of twisted rotors is less pulsing at the output side, slightly quieter operation.
Since this channel is all about comparing things, gigidy, I would like to see which 3D printed “compressor” screw type works slightly better than the others.
Great Project!! I would sugest a belt system instead of gears to reduce the noise and also the Motor support clearly needs some redesign and reenforcement not only becausa it broke but was way too wabbly.
Blower lobes normally have groves that run down the length of the outer apex of each lobe to hold what's called a vane which is essentially a gasket, a soft plastic, rubber, or even a brush would work pretty great in your application. It dosent seem like much but those vane gaskets can increase output by over 100% and its the main thing replaced on a blower rebuild. I'd love to see you incorporate this into your design and see how much it improves flow, combined with the higher rpm motor this thing could have a substantial output. On a side note blowers are designed to produce pressure, aka compressed air not air speed. So a cool test would be a pressure test to see how much PSI this thing can put out!
I'd use a belt to transfer power from the motor. It should deal with any misalignment in the assembly. Also, you could use RC spur gears to synchronise the rotors, they are quieter and more precise.
A timing belt and pulleys would also provide the synchronization with much less noise, but I realize he was trying to 3D print as much as possible. Still, it would be nice to eliminate the issues that we can easily eliminate using common, cheap parts that hobbyists would likely have or could obtain.
Absolutely would love to see it with different rotor designs and even (I may be stretching things here) a higher rpm motor. Love the content, keep up the great work! Edit - and just after I post, out comes the motor. 😂🤣
Nah, this is a very counter intuitive design. Blower motors don't flow much air and are designed to create pressure. The faster you spin it, the greater the heat will be generated. Ironically, Roots based chargers are the least efficient designs.
If that motor has a lot of torque then a big gear on the end of that driving a smaller gear attached to the blower could get it going even faster. Although you may need something more durable than 3d printed plastic to handle the speed. In addition more precision is needed when you start adding more gears or else it will try and run away from you and shake itself apart.
What I don't get is why no one seems to grease gears. Specially when it comes to speed it not only helps with friction but should help smooth it out a little bit. Plastic gears still suck but grease helps quite a bit.
Man I’m glad this showed up in my recommended feed, I clicked on this video so fast! It’d be cool to see you add a butterfly valve on the intake scoop that’s controlled by a small servo so you could open and close it just like a real blower intake. That looks so dang cool! I definitely subscribed to keep up with your awesome content. Much love from Texas!
"let me know if you want me to do it" Bro, my man. Perfect working fan design are not the only one I want to see in you channel. Design something crazy or stupid and see if it work are the other reason I subscribe you channel.
Motor tip: If the outgoing axle is offset from the ingoing one, it most likely is faster (meaning less torque, but higher rpm). Every possible gearbox that makes sense (planetary) means there will be the faster shaft offset from the middle.
Hey Major, as a car guy I gotta say that those blowers account for oncoming air. Have you ever considered turning the blower shroud into a mount for a 120mm fan 🤔
The SOUND it produces is nice! You can make this design ACTUALLY useful by making it quieter AND attaching speed controll to a gas pedal in some driving simulator Forsa, NFS whatever. I believer it would be a lot of fun! Herringbone gears may be quieter and they wouldn't create a side thrust that breaks a gearbox. Please add noise insulation to a gearbox (styrofoam or anything). Lubrication may also help with the gear noise. You may also make a solenoid v8 engine for additional "steam-punk" fun but it will need some deferent gear ratio. Very cool almost practical design. Try it in rain games with speed controll please!
Definitely want to see it run on the Castle motor. Why did the servo tester not work? You might just need to calibrate the motor/esc to the range of the PWM signal coming out of the servo tester. The Traxxas remote most likely has a different pulse width range, and many of them are calibrated for the neutral position to be slightly off center to allow for more travel on throttle and less travel for brake/reverse.
You could tighten the tollerances by either fusing molten wax to your impeller lobes or some layers of acrylic paint or both and then add silicone for a smooth rub.
As loose as the clearances are, the blower actually moves a lot of air. Doubling the RPM would almost double the airflow, except for clearance losses. The roots blower was used to pump air into mines.
The gears you printed from McMaster-Carr are meant to be driven by a worm gear; they are not designed to mesh with each other. Because the teeth are concave, they are only meshing on the outer corners, which is causing a lot of the noise. A correct gear type would be straight teeth, or even better, helical or double helical a.k.a. herringbone gears. This would allow each tooth to gradually load and unload as they mesh, resulting in much quieter operation.
Adding a twist to the blower could also significantly reduce the noise, since it would eliminate the periodic pulsation in the volume flow which is causing the loudest, lowest frequency whine.
A stronger mount on the faceplate would hold the motor better, as you said. Think about brass gears (you could drill them for weight-savings) to further lower the noise, as I bet that's where 75% of the sound is coming from. My PC hase 16" tall 5" chrome exhaust stacks on top (huge case), to match my monster diesel truck with stacks. Everybody loves it!
Love how it sounded like a true blower on that full speedish run at the end. Very cool. Need to find a way to grease those gears or lube them some how. Would work better. Also if you design the rotors to have a seal at the edge of each rotor it would move much more air. Few small mods and that thing will be killer.
I would love to see more of this. I myself have designed a blower that supported a 120mm fan to suck in air with it still looking like a super chager blower. But you just took the next step
This blower idea is too cool! As a car fan I would love to have a blower style intake on my pc to make it super cool. Definitely keep this idea going! Bigger Motor!!! :)
As a PC enthusiast and old school wrench-head, I think this might be one of the coolest endeavors I have ever seen on RUclips. Keep up the good work! 🤘😁👍
You should add seals to each rotor. This will help sealing allowing the air to be compressed more. That’s what high horsepower roots style blowers use.
making a gear cover and using a light grease may drastically reduce noise and shortening the main case to close the end tolerances at the bearing ends of the rotors may improve airflow and static pressure been working with weiand 871 units recently and a little clearance closing helps a lot
this has me brainstorming ideas for a hotrod themed build for my next pc, gonna have to play around with some ideas in my head see what i can come up, imagine that blower scaled up to run a 360mm and house a couple noctua's lol
how on earth you gonna attach a good motor and then be like "let me know if you want me to do it" but i guess it got engagement out of me. so well played
Things take a long time to 3D print if you ask him to remake it he probably will
Came here to say the exact same thing and to subscribe! Please, do it!
Edit: Naval Aviation > Chair Force 😉😜 21 years avionics
Screws please!
Don't go half-cocked! All or nothin!!
Yes do it.
Of course we want to see it run at full power!
Heck yes I want my computer to sound like a big supercharged V8... Sadly this is not a gimmick comment I would be completely amused to hear it ramp up when cooling requires it.
It's a no brainer.
Yes I want a supercharger on my PC.
got those plastic charger blue balls.
Yesssss
@Craft Computing what beer goes well with this supercharger setup?
few things..
1. Defiantly want to see twin screw on this!
2. There is a plugin for fusion 360 to make herringbone gears which are quieter, stronger, and are self aligning (ill try and find the link if you want it)
3. is there a way you can measure static pressure of fans?
Static pressure would need pitot tubes maybe?
or going Full GamersNexus: ruclips.net/video/4vYDeXpVTvs/видео.html
pushing a column of water against geavity, like the old days
@@stephen1r2 mount the fan to an air tight box and a U shaped tube with one end inside and one end outside. Like they did on Mythbusters once I think in the episode where they tested if someone could accidentally run through an office tower window. In that they put a window on the box and pulled negative pressure to simulate the fact an office tower has positive pressure and since they threw the dummy at the outside of the box they had to pull vacuum. But the way they measured the pressure since no gauge went low enough was a U shaped tube full of food colored water and marked inch measurements on it with a sharpie.
@@stephen1r2 pitot tubes measure total pressure but can also measure static. be careful repeating things gamersnexus says. he is very smart but even he admits that his air flow tunnel is new to him and all the tech (if 80s tech is still tech lol) it has he has had to learn about.
I'm also defiantly wanting
I'm an engineer and I can tell you there is a very good reason why "twisted rotors" as you put it
have a major advantages... they are worse at slow start up speeds, needing at lot more torque to get them staerted
but after that as long as they are precision made they will far outweigh a standard rotor in performance AND longevity!
Edit:
I doubt a 3D-printer could reach that level of tolerance needed for a twister rotor to work....
still your not one to back down from a challenge 😀
This is it, a twisted asymmetrical rotors are way better; BUT, the tolerances they require are far too much for any 3D printer. I think it would probably have much worse performance out of a 3D printer.
How about a resin printer? Atleast better than an FDM. But probably still not enough precision right?
@@jet613 you'd be surprised with how precise they can get
@@jet613 Am 8K resin printer is pretty darn precise. What kind of tolerances are we talking about?
You could always include a flexible seal, aka wankel rotary seals, to help with the sealing issue.
I use to build these types of blowers at my old job. You do want tighter clearances and also the gears on the end would be timing gears. You would probly want to use some sort of SHIM to get your clearance to set it up . When a blower is timed correctly it really does make a unique noise. almost like bubbles underwater
Couple things..
1. PLEASE USE THE FASTER MOTOR. I want to see what airflow it makes and the smoke test.
2. You should find a way to measure static pressure (future video project?)
I also was really impressed with how smooth the air was coming out the bottom.
I definitely agree that static needs to part of the testing criteria moving forward. This blower probably wins first
This
A pro-tip: make a 2" in. tall plenum chamber that goes between the blower and the rad, so the pressure equalizes across the face of the radiator. Makes it more efficient!
With this very modular construction, that should be easily doable while not having to redo so much. Also since finned radiators force airflow directionality, I think a lot of potential is lost here due to airflow only really passing through a rather narrow section of the radiator's exposed surface. There's a _very_ unfavorable efficiency curve at play here because of this.
Using said chamber to even out pressure and spread the output area, will IMO greatly improve that. This is also why most decent quality (PC water cooling) radiators have 0.5-1 cm of clearance between the frame/cowling the fan(s) frame mate to, and the radiator fins. To reduce airflow dead zones.
There's a reason why the near-universal standard for more/better cooling capacity is _more radiator surface_ (and more/larger fans to cover the increased area, unless it's a passive setup) - and rather rarely "improved" through faster and higher static pressure fans for the same radiator, unless there's just no more space available.
Heck this is also why if you for instance double radiator surface area, you can usually get substantially better cooling performance even with less _combined_ airflow and fan power consumption from the scaled-up setup (for instance 240mm rad with 2x lazy, slow spinning 120mm fans), than with the smaller and less performant setup (120mm rad and 1x aggressive, fast spinning 120mm fan).
TL;DR More radiator surface area getting airflow throughput, is substantially superior to higher airflow throughput through the same radiator surface area.
I was just gonna suggest that, great tip!
That's the only way a roots type blowers work. They create the pressure in the manifold.
Pressure. Static pressure.
This charger can blow through multiple dense radiators.
I vote for pressurising everything in one tube!
That's where it will shine
@@saltwaterrook4638 they dont create pressure, they create flow. Restriction creates pressure.
To get tight clearance: print slightly oversized and cover with valve lapping compound. Clean with tide POWDER detergent.
Basically my thought lol. If it's rubbing, just put some compound in there and let it run and it'll take care of itself...
This. I’d recommend graphite and/or teflon powder as well.
the surfaces will get hot and not really sand down. they will just smear unless you can keep it cool.
@@cbrunnem6102 manually crank it to reduce rpm based heat maybe?
@@buildingsalvage id say just let the 1000 rpm motor run for a while. thats really not all that fast and prolly wont heat it up too much. just a theory though.
I love the fact at 14:08 he leaned back and as far as he could from the blower, while keeping the remote firmly planted on the table like it's nailed down.
This was by far the coolest smoke test yet! Twisted Turn Rotors for sure!
Add some low-friction tape to the sides until things start rubbing, then remove a layer there. This should create a much more solid seal and beef up those numbers!
The biggest problem with this design was the geartrain. Make more robust gears that maximize torque from the motor in the efficient speed range of the rotors, and it seems like it'd be able to move relatively astronomical amounts of air.
@@ButterfatFarms damn... nothing gets past you. clearly he wasn't attempting to make anything of sufficient performance
@@ButterfatFarms obviously his goal was to make a device that moves air, so it stands to reason that he would want it to move as much air as possible, as that would match the trend of this channel. The point you're not getting is that this is a fun project, and believe it or not, it's fun to make "useless" things work well. Besides, you don't know that strapping it to a lawn mower won't actually increase power because you haven't tried it.
_"The biggest problem with this design was the geartrain."_ You do realise the gear train does nothing but synchronise the rotors? It doesn't offer any speed reduction or increase.
@@ButterfatFarms the goal is to make a cool supercharger model out of plastic that moves some air, and if possible move as much air as possible.
No noise concerns, no efficiency concerns, no pressure requirements. It's a fun stupid project and that's the best part of it.
@@ButterfatFarms you get it! These projects are fun to tinker with just because. And I agree that the biggest problem right now is the broken motor mount, lol
One thing that might help you get tighter clearance is to print slightly oversized to where certain things are just barely rubbing together. Then run at a lower RPM for several hours so the parts wear in.
Also I would LOVE to see a large one of these designed for a 360mm radiator!
Good idea, if the compound of the screws is the same compound as the housing is can wear the housing in some too. This will still creat a tighter tolerance but will compromise the shape of the housing, another way to get a tighter tolerance is to use gear marking compound, and cover the screws in it, install and spin them a few times. Take the screws out and check for wear, do a light sand on the spots that have the marking compound rubbed off. Than cover the sanded areas in marking compound again and repeat. You do this until the tolerance is perfect, you just have to be care not to go overboard with the sanding.
a thing i do when I want tight tolerances between parts is to again print them a bit too tight but then use one of those kitchen dish soaps with like a sand in it and it turns out it works very well as a mild abrasive
Horizontal expansion =0.2
Straight blades will never seal unless he uses Teflon inserts, if he went with the twisted screw he could have done a knife edge tip to get maximum efficiency and tighter tolerances.
@@RaTsAk-y1t but idk how well the 3d printed plastic is able to withstand those forces in the screw shape. The lobe shape is more resistant to deformation
Maaaaaaaan, this tickles all the right spots!! I'm a former mechanic, with some experience with forced induction... this is such a cool little idea. Lots of refinement required, but you are on track with that fast rpm motor. I think I'm gonna try something like this myself, but with aluminum housing and printed rotors. Great video!!!
Mhm because of clearance would it be better to wear slitly oversized rotors in a harder housing or go full on precisson grinding?
I would say bulk up the motor mount and increase the size of the whole unit so the opening at the bottom fully covers the 240mm rad (it is the right ratio). Also, print a very, very slight interference fit and wear it in, then grease the gear teeth and the rotors lightly to seal better and not wear too fast. That should be a killer setup.
This is really awesome, would be amazing if you could get it close to full scale. Then hit up Jayztwoscents and see if you could combine this with his motor pc case idea. I'm sure it would give him the boost to restart that case mod and you two would make an awesome colab.
YES!
That's actually a great idea
I think the design just needs to be a lengthened to fit like a 120x240mm (or 360mm) radiator mount.
I thought of Jay immediately too. It would need to be scaled up, but this would be just the thing to resurrect that build.
YES!!! Jay would be right into this mod.
I love the concept of having a throttle for your CPU cooler. You could race against the thermals.
The FPSs are going down? Give it more juice.
she's giving us all she's got captain
My man is literally out here pushing the boundaries of manufacturing. Well done!
Reminds me of a guy who would do that on the regular in the '90s
Junk maybe
as an RC-guy: probably your servo tester does work, but to inicialise the ESC, it must be in "the center position"... now the RC-Radio had defenetly not the same center position as the servo tester... so I would suggest to relearn your ESC to the Servo tester, usually thats done by pressing the setup button whil powering on and then netural, full forward, full reverse... it will give you a few happy beeps and after initialising in the center again, it should response to throttle inputs.
And if you repair your rustler... use RPM parts, even if not as shiny as aluminium arms etc... aluminium bends and stays... plastic bends back! therefore every part that gets impacted shall be plastic, the one only stressed in one way (shock towers etc) can be aluminium or carbon... Have fun ;-)
This is probably my favorite thing I have seen on you channel so far. My passion for cars meets my new passion for PCs. I definitely want to see more variations this design.
Roots blowers (positive displacement blowers) don't compress air, they just speed it up, it's compressed when it's rammed into the intake manifold. All roots blowers have an optimal Delta P where the rotors can no longer prevent sufficient air from leaking back into the blower and just getting heated up.
Twin screw actually do compress air as it's pushed through the twin screw.
For what it's wroth, modern roots blowers have an ablative coating that breaks in so they actually kind of touch. The better the seal, the more efficient the blower and higher the delta P. It's not the only factor, rotor geometry and size are also a factor. Most blowers have a coupler between the snout drive and the rotor pack that is designed to break in the event that the rotors ingest something that jams them to minimize damage.
I have a blown car that runs on alcohol :D
Edit, if you had either Gemini gears or helical gears will help reduce the noise, but in your case I think a lot of the noise is from the rotors kind of clunking around.
They actually do compress air. PD engineering drawings actually calculate the pressure zone when determining the compression chamber volume.
The OE coupler in my eaton m62 self destructed after 190k hard miles
This seems like a lot of buzzwords that are adjacent to being correct.
I read your whole comment thinking "oh man this is a backyard warrior who understood about 10% of an internet article" and then I saw your last comment about having a blown car on alcohol and knew I nailed it.
BTW, by your reasoning nothing builds pressure but rather speeds it up. actual answer, a blower does compress air. it has a flow vs pressure chart at several speeds. if an engine has massive valves or tons of lift, the blower will flow more air at less pressure assuming everything else about the two cases are the same. point being, no compressor can build pressure without some restriction.
lastly, compressors some times slow the velocity of air.
@@cbrunnem6102 _" actual answer, a blower does compress air"_ Incorrect, a roots type blower is simply an air pump. It _does not_ internally compress the air which is why they have fairy poor efficiency for supercharger applications. Conceptually it's similar to a gear style pump, which also doesn't compress anything.
Put your gears in double shear with another bearing behind them, it will help quite a bit with the high speed stability.
The meshing of the gears is one of the most important parts of a supercharger. Having the timing off by even a little bit can cause catastrophic failure in the rotors.
This design is so great! I want to see how it performs against the others in the full fan test at a higher RPM, too! I so badly want to see the smoke test at full throttle!
Suggestions:
Center mount the motor and use a toothed belt. With proper tension this will give better energy transfer than gears. You should be able to print the belt from TPU.
Also, if you are wanting to move air more so than compress it you might consider some hybrid design, like a linear blower wheel for the impellers.
Use Graphene to make it smother. it acts as a Great lubricator
considering the outlet hole you have on the blower you might want to turn it sideways on the radiator or create an interface plate with vanes to guide the air across the entire radiator area instead of just that narrow path in the middle. on top of that it would only be fair to spin the blower a 3000rpm just like the noctua fan.
Yes, I want to see that! Also, try mounting it so that the motor gear meshes with the drive gears. That may provide a better functionality for the setup.
I just bought a twin screw Whipple Supercharger for my 90's Plymouth minivan last week. Wish I'd known then that I could have saved thousands of dollars by 3D printing it myself...
Well now that you have it you might as well test how well it cools a pc 😂
☝️ I vote for what that guy said...
And ill second it. You have to do it now. The people have spoken... Seriously a fuckin minivan...
Also, how do you mount the damn thing, does it just chill in the cab coming out the top of the dog house?
@@zmaster1481 minivans have very little engine compartment space front to back, left to right. But, they have a ridiculous amount of room vertically. I put a 2010 Dodge Charger V6 stroked out to 4.0L and an AWD transmission into my van, that engine is about twice the external size of my original engine. Theres about a foot between the top of the engine and the hood, and 2 feet from the transmission to the hood.. I could definitely fit another engine on top of the transmission and a transmission on top of the engine.
YES. I need to see this work with the new motor. It blew my mind that it's actually starting to sound like a real blower!!
As a final "fix" before you test into destruction, try making the rotor-rotor & rotor-case airtight. Coat everything inside with epoxy and run it slow (~1 rpm) for 2 hours. The epoxy will fill the spaces and cure but the motion will not let it settle where it has interference. Should quiet it down too. Once the insides get solid, clean off the entry & exit areas with acetone.
Afterward, you should be able to run at somewhat higher speeds combined with a positive displacement pump, which yields a more even higher pressure presented to the input side of the radiator.
Yes 1000% want to see more of this! Would love to see this tested with different parts to see what does the best. Blower showdown.
Worm gears were a mistake. Those are driven from a worm screw. That's why it looked like they were trying to walk apart.
Needed regular gears.
Very cool though.
Herringbone would've been quieter
Thrust bearings and/or pulleys would also be needed.
@@anonymousarmadillo6589 Yeah, I like to lightly centre cut herringbone, leaving pockets to maybe hold some grease and gather particles.
@@GBCobber that's pretty smart
I'm at a loss as to why anyone would choose a worm gear for a spur gear application.
The mount broke because you're essentially backing off that screw in the main rotor which puts pressure back on the motor itself inside the coupler. Try to move the motor mount to the other side or use reverse threaded screw on that rotor so that you tighen it with the rotation of the motor. Hope that makes sense :)
Then it would basically do the same thing but backwards? I think the mounts need to be stronger and set up differently
For best performance with rc motor I would suggest redesigned lobes with slots for tpu gaskets then you wouldn't need such close tolerance because the gaskets would seal then add some spray silicone to everything before assembly, also reccomend sanding(4000grit) and polishing all internal parts for as smooth a surface as possible to reduce drag and lastly I would love to see a 360mm version, that would look amazing sitting on top of a custom hot rod case
As a PC guy, car guy, as well as R/C car guy.... I absolutely want to see more of this setup!! If that is a 3s rated ESC it will absolutely handle the 12v from your power supply. A full charged 3s is 12.6V the 11.1V that's printed on the 3s pack is the full dead voltage.
also your gears looked to be worm gears you also called them that. a worm gear is not what you want here. A worm gear has a hallow to it to fit against another round gear at a 90* angle. You need just a standard spur gear for your application.
Man I'd love to see a flap on the intake, like the one on a car blower (the one that regulates how much air can enter). I think it could even be tied to the cpu temp, maybe together with the motor speed :D
He could tie one of those servos to it from the RC car.
It's called a bug catcher
Butterfly valve usually
I always hated how quiet my PC was, now whenever I'm gaming I get to hear that satisfying whine as the turbos spin up!
(yeah yeah, I know it's a super not a turbo)
"Lemme know if that's something you wanna see"
Yes we do want to see you make a thicker mount and absolutely yeeet it!😂
Also, maybe provide dimensions for the screw fans so people can design different variations that fit in the casing and maybe improve the noise and airflow of the supercharger cooler, would be interesting to see what ingenuity people can bring to this and see if we can get the thing to climb the leader board
This 👆
Rotor Showdown? 🤔 what about that?
this would be super cool
That looks so cool, literally!
But did anyone else flinch at the cracking engine mount, engine pulled off and the start with loose bits still attached?
Looking forwards to see the different ideas and modifications on the original concept!
This is AWESOME!!! Would love to see you push this concept further and see the potential. This is way more fun than a pc fan concept has any right to be, but i'm here for it!!
I went to diesel tech school and I worked on my fair share of roots blowers for old Detroit Diesel engines, this looks almost identical to those, (even the color of the housing is close) but I think something you are missing that might increase the air pressure and in turn increase the output is by lubricating the rotors, the oil acts as a seal more air can be pushed in without having any leaks, might not be much of a difference but that’s something the real blowers have depending on application, you could also run a turbo into the blower to get more airflow. Cool build I’d like to see what else it can do, and also it sounds shockingly similar to a real roots blower which are loud and obnoxious, impressed at how quiet this is
I would love to see a twin screw version, a better motor, and a tighter fitting (but smooth) design-as other comments suggested using a lapping compound and letting it run to have it make itself more efficient (and I'd assume it would make it quieter too.
On top of beefing up the motor mount/joint method I would suggest helical rotors with nylon seal strip along the outermost edge of the lobes like they use in real life superchargers. I would actually suggest using plastic welding strips as they are cheap and easy to find on amazon, etc.
The helical lobes combined with the seal strips would make both air delivery smoother as well as reduce rotor induced vibration as the lobes would be resisting the motor equally at all angles instead of just two like with the straight cut lobes. using the nylon would also dramatically reduce the contact patch size along with the ability of air to sneak past the rotors like I imagine it would be doing in the current iteration.
squeezing more out of the bearings and seals is tough but there are ways . Greasing the bearings with a performance grease and lube the gearing and blower with graphite powder based grease. everything will move a bit smoother and seal just a bit better depending on the powdered grease.
Dude those moving parts produce so much heat I think running this thing for a couple hours it's gonna melt
Bro I thought the same thing, that thing sounds dry af. A few hours and all the joints will be loose
@@VaDeR173 grease exists with a purpose
or print moving parts out of
self lubricating carbon nylon
also i was screaming at him the motor needs to be more stably secured.
This is pretty cool! I'd definitely like to see one or two more iterations of this. Maybe doing a twin screw or even just twisted roots would help push the air towards the back of the housing better. Also I just think it would be cool to see it fit onto a 240MM radiator properly. Finally, superchargers are designed to run at a higher rpm than the crank of a motor, what would a 240MM supercharger with a 10k rpm motor do?
I'm not reading through 2k comments to check if this has been said already; but the tolerances between the rotors and the casing walls are very important to a roots blower making above atmospheric pressure. As it stands it will move air, but if you want positive displacement then you need to tighten up the gaps. Might even consider designing a 'seal' at the apex of each rotor lobe (oh that's why they are called apex seals on a rotary engine) to wear into the housing and opposing rotor; however if the tolerance isn't the same between the rotors and housing it will be an issue.
And it would be cool to do a little video about how you design the helical twist into the rotors in Fusion360 or FreeCAD. Maybe print a few different rotation percentages to see if it has any effect on the flow... careful you may discover why Eaton has settled on the designs they have for their line of roots and TVS superchargers.
Nearly every vehicle I own ether has or had forced induction - just not my PC builds... yet...
“Let me know if you want to see it running full power.” Absolutely we want to see it running full power! I like it.
Very cool! I'd like to see this go further. Stronger motor mount, twin screw, tighter tolerances, etc. Air flow testing with the brushless motor would be pretty interesting.
Superchargers really excell at static pressure, the thicker the radiator you can bolt it to the better
And heck yes we would love to see some different blower types tested!!!
Yep this should be able to produce 100x the static pressure of a regular fan. So it should be able to push some serious airflow trough the thickest and densest of radiators.
Maybe a thrust bearing of some kind at either end of the Rotors would help with noise and movement. Also just lubrication of some kind incase of contact
Lubrication for the gears isn't a bad idea, maybe silicone grease. Any lubrication inside the compressor housing would get thrown out and into the radiator.
Deep groove ball bearings can handle thrust loads up to 50% of their radial load rating. No need for seperate thrust bearings.
I REALLY want to see that super charger at full speed. It was way too much potential to just leave it with a 1000 RPM motor.
Love this concept. Would love to see tighter tolerances on the rotors and a mount made for the RC motor. That would be insane.
Put butterflies in the scoop and run it to a servo splitter for the esc, so when you rev it, it opens up! Also could you run a program so it turn on like a computer fan when it gets to temp?
Servos and PWM fans use the same type of signal, I don't know if they're actually compatible but I wouldn't be surprised if you could just drive a servo or ESC directly off a 4 pin fan header. Worst case, it'd be trivial to make a little microcontroller board to convert between the two.
Just needs working valves now for the hood!
I'd love to see you do a "throttle plate" in that intake scoop and somehow have it close when a PC is off and have it open when PC turns on!
Get really fancy and have the throttle plates rotate open as the RPMs increase. ;)
@@JCHoefer damn thats a good idea, should be possible by using the output from fanspeed controllers and adjusting the flaps accordingly.
Thought Chris Broad was going to pop out when I heard 8:31.
I have never seen your channel before but im so glad this popped up! two things i love in the world, cars and pc's.
if you want more static pressure try a twin screw blower instead of the roots blower, or go for a procharger design, basically a crank powered turbo.
Absolutely subscribing and cant wait for more!
Decibel budget ? Yes.
Be careful when you're playing with high RPM, your eyes and teeth won't stop a metal rod flying at this speed without harm.
Nice video as usual
Major Hardware + car stuff?
Now THIS I like. 😁👏
roots blowers were designed to do exactly this, so its great to se one at this scale. with some refinement it would be ineresting to see how good yours can get, it would also be cool to see one stretched out on a 240 mm or even a 480mm radiator. i bet it would work swimmingly if you have the time.
Someone probably said it already but roots positive displacement superchargers don't actually compress air, that's why they're called blowers. You should definitely try the twisted lobes too. Cant wait to hear that thing whine.
The meshing of the gears - one of the most important parts of a supercharger, having the timing off by even a little bit can cause catastrophic failure in the rotors.
I think that you made the right choice with the charger type. Generally a twin screw compresses air. Meanwhile the roots just shoves as much air as possibble and it ends up compressing due to the excess of air, and since the pressure doesnt matter here its better.
Just wanna point out that there is no physical difference between "compressing" and "shoving as much air as possible until it compresses". They are the same process. Yes a screw type squeezes the air between the screws whereas a roots type moves the air in a comparatively large channel around the outside, but the volume opens up again once the air leaves the blower and enters the intake runners. From the perspective of the engine, or in this case a radiator, the two processes might as well be identical
You cannot have compression without displacement.
This is completely awesome. I love superchargers.
I'd love to see twin screws, I think they'd be more efficient.
It seems that the motor mount could use a few more arms for stability, it's vibrating around a lot, which is inefficient and could lead to failure. (HA, wrote this before the motor swap)
Didn't know about this type of geared motor. It would be perfect for a future project I want to do. Your link to the motor is the inserts.
This would be cool to continue different designs with.
Maybe you can find a way to adapt the slip clutch from the rustler if you want to keep using the mamba, or make your own step up gear box so the 1000rpm is more effective.
use a worm drive (big gear left, worm in the middle, big gear on the right) or use a mini timing belt like a T5 (they come in any width you need them in) and serpentine the belt under and over the 2 roots gears and down or to one side for the motor to drive it from.
You can improve the 'seal' between the rotors if you cut length-wise grooves on the outer surface of the lobes.
Grooved lobes 'grab' the air as it tries to slip past, smooth lobes let air blow by.
Doesn't make much difference at higher speeds, but it makes a huge improvement when 'idling'.
The only advantage of twisted rotors is less pulsing at the output side, slightly quieter operation.
Since this channel is all about comparing things, gigidy, I would like to see which 3D printed “compressor” screw type works slightly better than the others.
If only you made this with clear housing so we could see the smoke move through….would have been so cool
Great Project!! I would sugest a belt system instead of gears to reduce the noise and also the Motor support clearly needs some redesign and reenforcement not only becausa it broke but was way too wabbly.
Please make the video of a working version with the more powerful motor. Would be interesting to see how it performs at cooling.
Blower lobes normally have groves that run down the length of the outer apex of each lobe to hold what's called a vane which is essentially a gasket, a soft plastic, rubber, or even a brush would work pretty great in your application. It dosent seem like much but those vane gaskets can increase output by over 100% and its the main thing replaced on a blower rebuild. I'd love to see you incorporate this into your design and see how much it improves flow, combined with the higher rpm motor this thing could have a substantial output. On a side note blowers are designed to produce pressure, aka compressed air not air speed. So a cool test would be a pressure test to see how much PSI this thing can put out!
I'd use a belt to transfer power from the motor. It should deal with any misalignment in the assembly. Also, you could use RC spur gears to synchronise the rotors, they are quieter and more precise.
A timing belt and pulleys would also provide the synchronization with much less noise, but I realize he was trying to 3D print as much as possible. Still, it would be nice to eliminate the issues that we can easily eliminate using common, cheap parts that hobbyists would likely have or could obtain.
Absolutely would love to see it with different rotor designs and even (I may be stretching things here) a higher rpm motor.
Love the content, keep up the great work!
Edit - and just after I post, out comes the motor. 😂🤣
Nah, this is a very counter intuitive design. Blower motors don't flow much air and are designed to create pressure. The faster you spin it, the greater the heat will be generated. Ironically, Roots based chargers are the least efficient designs.
If that motor has a lot of torque then a big gear on the end of that driving a smaller gear attached to the blower could get it going even faster. Although you may need something more durable than 3d printed plastic to handle the speed. In addition more precision is needed when you start adding more gears or else it will try and run away from you and shake itself apart.
What I don't get is why no one seems to grease gears. Specially when it comes to speed it not only helps with friction but should help smooth it out a little bit. Plastic gears still suck but grease helps quite a bit.
@@MidnightMarrow wouldnt the open design of the gears shoot grease all over the room? doesnt seem like that much of a good idea to me.
1. This is sick
2. Why the hell would you want a QUIET supercharger hahahahaha
Man I’m glad this showed up in my recommended feed, I clicked on this video so fast! It’d be cool to see you add a butterfly valve on the intake scoop that’s controlled by a small servo so you could open and close it just like a real blower intake. That looks so dang cool! I definitely subscribed to keep up with your awesome content. Much love from Texas!
Another need that I never knew I had: wanting to see a 3d printed, supercharger-style, computer cooler using an absurdly powerful motor.
Sign me up!
The “twisted rotors” are called High Helix rotors! They twist 120 degrees over their length. You’ll gain a fair amount of extra efficiency.
should also reduce sound too.
The reason it didn't work to well is because root blowers have gaskets on the end of the lobes to keep air from leaking out and around
He could make a TPU sleeve for one side to make it seal up better.
I suspect the large clearances on the rotors and low RPM were bigger handicaps.
@@ferrumignis the gaskets help close up the clearance problem better and then we will really see if it had enough speed or not.
"let me know if you want me to do it"
Bro, my man. Perfect working fan design are not the only one I want to see in you channel. Design something crazy or stupid and see if it work are the other reason I subscribe you channel.
Paint the rotors and inner walls of the body with Teflon spray. That will close the tolerance and reduce the noise. Plus make it more efficient
I think the most useful aspect of that blower is going to be it's static pressure. It can probably overpower many other fans
Motor tip: If the outgoing axle is offset from the ingoing one, it most likely is faster (meaning less torque, but higher rpm). Every possible gearbox that makes sense (planetary) means there will be the faster shaft offset from the middle.
Hey Major, as a car guy I gotta say that those blowers account for oncoming air. Have you ever considered turning the blower shroud into a mount for a 120mm fan 🤔
The SOUND it produces is nice! You can make this design ACTUALLY useful by making it quieter AND attaching speed controll to a gas pedal in some driving simulator Forsa, NFS whatever. I believer it would be a lot of fun!
Herringbone gears may be quieter and they wouldn't create a side thrust that breaks a gearbox. Please add noise insulation to a gearbox (styrofoam or anything). Lubrication may also help with the gear noise.
You may also make a solenoid v8 engine for additional "steam-punk" fun but it will need some deferent gear ratio.
Very cool almost practical design. Try it in rain games with speed controll please!
Definitely want to see it run on the Castle motor. Why did the servo tester not work? You might just need to calibrate the motor/esc to the range of the PWM signal coming out of the servo tester. The Traxxas remote most likely has a different pulse width range, and many of them are calibrated for the neutral position to be slightly off center to allow for more travel on throttle and less travel for brake/reverse.
You could tighten the tollerances by either fusing molten wax to your impeller lobes or some layers of acrylic paint or both and then add silicone for a smooth rub.
As loose as the clearances are, the blower actually moves a lot of air. Doubling the RPM would almost double the airflow, except for clearance losses. The roots blower was used to pump air into mines.
The gears you printed from McMaster-Carr are meant to be driven by a worm gear; they are not designed to mesh with each other. Because the teeth are concave, they are only meshing on the outer corners, which is causing a lot of the noise. A correct gear type would be straight teeth, or even better, helical or double helical a.k.a. herringbone gears. This would allow each tooth to gradually load and unload as they mesh, resulting in much quieter operation.
Adding a twist to the blower could also significantly reduce the noise, since it would eliminate the periodic pulsation in the volume flow which is causing the loudest, lowest frequency whine.
A stronger mount on the faceplate would hold the motor better, as you said. Think about brass gears (you could drill them for weight-savings) to further lower the noise, as I bet that's where 75% of the sound is coming from.
My PC hase 16" tall 5" chrome exhaust stacks on top (huge case), to match my monster diesel truck with stacks. Everybody loves it!
Love how it sounded like a true blower on that full speedish run at the end. Very cool. Need to find a way to grease those gears or lube them some how. Would work better. Also if you design the rotors to have a seal at the edge of each rotor it would move much more air. Few small mods and that thing will be killer.
I would love to see more of this. I myself have designed a blower that supported a 120mm fan to suck in air with it still looking like a super chager blower. But you just took the next step
This blower idea is too cool! As a car fan I would love to have a blower style intake on my pc to make it super cool. Definitely keep this idea going! Bigger Motor!!! :)
As a PC enthusiast and old school wrench-head, I think this might be one of the coolest endeavors I have ever seen on RUclips. Keep up the good work! 🤘😁👍
You should make more than one and stack them on top of each other so it makes the out blast more pressurised
You should add seals to each rotor. This will help sealing allowing the air to be compressed more. That’s what high horsepower roots style blowers use.
A part two would be much appreciated. I love this outrageous design.
Exactly what the internet is for, finding you videos that blend your childhood and your dreams. Yes!
making a gear cover and using a light grease may drastically reduce noise and shortening the main case to close the end tolerances at the bearing ends of the rotors may improve airflow and static pressure been working with weiand 871 units recently and a little clearance closing helps a lot
this has me brainstorming ideas for a hotrod themed build for my next pc, gonna have to play around with some ideas in my head see what i can come up, imagine that blower scaled up to run a 360mm and house a couple noctua's lol
What you could do to help is make grooves on each lobe and add Teflon strips to help seal and may run a little more quietly