I'm fairly new to this form of technology, I was completely astonished to find this video! Thank you so much for the detailed instructions along with where to get the parts I needed. I now have my camper fixed again!
I have been searching for years for this information, I received a camper here in Australia with the lift system completely removed most likely pre internet ,although I could see the parts available online it seemed completely beyond me to install somethingwhen I could not see how it works /should look,, not anymore my friend ,I am beyond thankful to watch this.
A tip for anyone else doing this to save you a headache...do not remove the front and back bushings if there is nothing wrong with them. The back wall bushing is easy to replace. However, larger bushing in the front plate is a serious pita to get back in. Really hard to get c clamps into such a tight space. As soon as I had taken mine out, it hit me that I shouldn’t had done it lol. Hope this saves someone else a headache, time and energy. We got it back in, but it was all of those things for us. At least 40-40 minutes. Screwing with it. Good luck to all. We also left the original clutch clicker/lock and spring mechanism. Couldn’t see how it was put together and didn’t want to spend another hour trying to sort out how to replace something ai took out...but wasn’t broken 😂🤷🏼♂️🍻
Also want to thank the guys that did this video...sorry I forgot in the original comment. Wouldn’t have been able to do this job without it. They helped about 90-95% of the job and mostly had to only fill in a couple of blanks on your own. I owe y’all beer next time we see ya out there🍻
Your video was an answer to prayer. My parts are on order. One question, would you be able to send me a link to the exact rivets you used? I search panel or split rivets and I get all kinds. I suppose the length of the ones you used might be sufficient. Thanks!
So no dab of grease inside either bushing? Thanks for doing the video. I ordered the parts and after reading all the comments below am now worried about getting the pins out! LOL
You should do a vid on a Coleman and Fleetwood direct drive, crank-up unit, which does not use the chain and explain the clutch function in a bit more detail, would really be helpful.
The roll pin on the drive shaft keeps snapping. I just got rid of the entire assembly and I now crank it by the lower worm gear drive, it's much easier and less parts to fail.
@@danahaulbrook3179 remove the back panel so you have access to the chain and crank assembly. Remove the entire assembly and chain. The lower worm rod will have a chain sprocket with a roll pin, remove both. Buy a longer roll pin and install it so both ends stick out about a 1/4" on the worm rod without the chain sprocket, the new longer roll pin is now your new crank assembly with the use of your current crank tool.
I have a working, but hard to open IDT lift system..NO ZERKS fittings, I am planning to add a couple to the main tube...Bad idea or good idea? What you do think?
Does anyone know where to find a video to release the handle for the pop-up to come back down? Should you be able just to do a slight turn to the right and then crank it to the left for it to come down? Ours will not come down, and it seems to be stuck in place.
If everything is the same size I do not know. All the replacement parts were the same I’m sure you checked that so unfortunately I can’t hazard to guess sorry good luck with it
Okay, the pin on the upper sprocket refuses to break loose guys. I've bent two extended punches so far, and it won't budge. Yes, I am using PB Blaster. Any suggestions.
@@williamgolgert5090 okay, here's what I ended up doing. Get yourself a high speed, low profile drill. Beg and/or borrow, you'll need a good metal drill bit that is slightly smaller. Start eating it out of there. At some point before you get to the middle, you'll be able to knock it out the rest of the way. Go ahead get a new pin at an online RV parts dealer. Might want to check out the whole sprocket kit. Good luck man, I feel your pain..,
@@williamgolgert5090 One other thing, Go ahead crawl under the camper and drop the access plate for the lift system cable junction box. My issues with the crank, chain, and sprocket were created by mice that had gotten in the box and made nests amongst the cables. Then grease it and seal it up real good .
How does the pin at 4:17 come out so easily? I have been hammering on mine with a punch and the punch itself broke. Tried heating it up, using a penetrating oil etc. it won't even budge!
Had this problem too. Mine had two spring pins. I cut the welds and removed the entire assembly. I used penetrating oil, torch and then a 3lb sledge hammer with spring pin punches. I was able to drill down into one of the spring pins with a cobalt bit and cutting fluid (Tap Magic). After getting about 1/2" down, I was able to hammer the pins out with the sledge. WHAT A HASSLE!!! I replaced the two spring pins with a single 2" spring pin that came with the rebuild kit.
@@chipw1964 Good luck to you. I've decided to let the project sit for the winter and will come back to it in spring. Daniels suggestion for cobalt drill bits and cutting fluid might be my only hope.
I have the same issue. I even pulled out the entire bracket assembly so I could try to press the pin out on the vice. No luck. This a massive pain. All that I have left to try is to cut the welds. This is horrible engineering.
Best video out there explaining how to do this job! Thank you for such detailed instructions.
Thank you soooo much for showing how to repair this camper! It really helps on how the new parts go together.
My Niagara camper has the same problem, I'm going to fix myself thanks to this wonderful video 👍✌️
Just wanted to say a big THANK YOU for this video, helped me solve my problem + find a source for the parts I needed for the repair.
I'm fairly new to this form of technology, I was completely astonished to find this video! Thank you so much for the detailed instructions along with where to get the parts I needed. I now have my camper fixed again!
Hugely helpful for diagnosing my 2005 Sequoia. Thanks.
I am so thankful that you made this video. We have the exact camper have been wondering how to fix this mechanism if it fails.
I have been searching for years for this information, I received a camper here in Australia with the lift system completely removed most likely pre internet ,although I could see the parts available online it seemed completely beyond me to install somethingwhen I could not see how it works /should look,, not anymore my friend ,I am beyond thankful to watch this.
This was extremely satisfying to watch!! Love it!
Thank you for the video. I think you explained my fix perfectly.
Fantastic video!! Thank you so much
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing.
A tip for anyone else doing this to save you a headache...do not remove the front and back bushings if there is nothing wrong with them. The back wall bushing is easy to replace. However, larger bushing in the front plate is a serious pita to get back in. Really hard to get c clamps into such a tight space. As soon as I had taken mine out, it hit me that I shouldn’t had done it lol. Hope this saves someone else a headache, time and energy. We got it back in, but it was all of those things for us. At least 40-40 minutes. Screwing with it. Good luck to all. We also left the original clutch clicker/lock and spring mechanism. Couldn’t see how it was put together and didn’t want to spend another hour trying to sort out how to replace something ai took out...but wasn’t broken 😂🤷🏼♂️🍻
Also want to thank the guys that did this video...sorry I forgot in the original comment. Wouldn’t have been able to do this job without it. They helped about 90-95% of the job and mostly had to only fill in a couple of blanks on your own. I owe y’all beer next time we see ya out there🍻
@@pnwpaddler I’ll take that 😂
This is great! I hope I don't have to do this every, but seems pretty simple!
Your video was an answer to prayer. My parts are on order. One question, would you be able to send me a link to the exact rivets you used? I search panel or split rivets and I get all kinds. I suppose the length of the ones you used might be sufficient. Thanks!
Thankyou sir!
Great video do you happen to have a part number?
So no dab of grease inside either bushing? Thanks for doing the video. I ordered the parts and after reading all the comments below am now worried about getting the pins out! LOL
You should do a vid on a Coleman and Fleetwood direct drive, crank-up unit, which does not use the chain and explain the clutch function in a bit more detail, would really be helpful.
The roll pin on the drive shaft keeps snapping.
I just got rid of the entire assembly and I now crank it by the lower worm gear drive, it's much easier and less parts to fail.
How did you do this? We had the same problem this weekend with ours and what a pain in the rear to try to get the crank fixed!
@@danahaulbrook3179 remove the back panel so you have access to the chain and crank assembly. Remove the entire assembly and chain. The lower worm rod will have a chain sprocket with a roll pin, remove both. Buy a longer roll pin and install it so both ends stick out about a 1/4" on the worm rod without the chain sprocket, the new longer roll pin is now your new crank assembly with the use of your current crank tool.
I have a working, but hard to open IDT lift system..NO ZERKS fittings, I am planning to add a couple to the main tube...Bad idea or good idea? What you do think?
Does anyone know where to find a video to release the handle for the pop-up to come back down? Should you be able just to do a slight turn to the right and then crank it to the left for it to come down? Ours will not come down, and it seems to be stuck in place.
Love this.! replaced my drive shaft and extension now my chains don't fit ..any ideas..ty
If everything is the same size I do not know. All the replacement parts were the same I’m sure you checked that so unfortunately I can’t hazard to guess sorry good luck with it
What rivets did you use since they look like a standard 1/8" pop rivet to me??
They are called spilt rivets or panel rivets they spread wider to catch the plastic panel firm
I cannot find these parts. I know you gave a website where you ordered them. Can you reference a part number?
I can’t but you can order them on the website
Okay, the pin on the upper sprocket refuses to break loose guys. I've bent two extended punches so far, and it won't budge. Yes, I am using PB Blaster. Any suggestions.
I had to hit the pin out from underneath. I tried from top and didn’t work
Did you ever figure it out? I am whacking it with a punch and hammer and it’s not moving at all
@@williamgolgert5090 okay, here's what I ended up doing. Get yourself a high speed, low profile drill. Beg and/or borrow, you'll need a good metal drill bit that is slightly smaller. Start eating it out of there. At some point before you get to the middle, you'll be able to knock it out the rest of the way. Go ahead get a new pin at an online RV parts dealer. Might want to check out the whole sprocket kit. Good luck man, I feel your pain..,
@@williamgolgert5090 One other thing, Go ahead crawl under the camper and drop the access plate for the lift system cable junction box. My issues with the crank, chain, and sprocket were created by mice that had gotten in the box and made nests amongst the cables. Then grease it and seal it up real good .
What would happen if that would have fell with people inside? That sounds like a death trap!
One the door is put in place it would stop a complete collapse 🤔 I hope
How does the pin at 4:17 come out so easily? I have been hammering on mine with a punch and the punch itself broke. Tried heating it up, using a penetrating oil etc. it won't even budge!
Had this problem too. Mine had two spring pins. I cut the welds and removed the entire assembly. I used penetrating oil, torch and then a 3lb sledge hammer with spring pin punches. I was able to drill down into one of the spring pins with a cobalt bit and cutting fluid (Tap Magic). After getting about 1/2" down, I was able to hammer the pins out with the sledge. WHAT A HASSLE!!! I replaced the two spring pins with a single 2" spring pin that came with the rebuild kit.
Same issue, only with the pin located in the whiffletree underneath the trailer. Two days of pounding any only budged it an 1/8 of an inch.
@@chipw1964 Good luck to you. I've decided to let the project sit for the winter and will come back to it in spring. Daniels suggestion for cobalt drill bits and cutting fluid might be my only hope.
I have the same issue. I even pulled out the entire bracket assembly so I could try to press the pin out on the vice. No luck. This a massive pain. All that I have left to try is to cut the welds. This is horrible engineering.
@@kosdan I ended up fixing mine by having that wheel cut out and buying part 5111 from Coleman pop-up parts. Good luck.