Nissan Frontier Differential Noise Diagnosis
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- 2008 Nissan Frontier 4.0L AT 2WD had a differential noise while driving. It would start even while backing out of the driveway. I show what the noise was coming from and how to remove the front cover and drain the fluid. This is just a diagnosis video but I will have a repair video when the parts come in.
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Always open the fill first, this way you know it will open. If you drain it and can't open the fill you are stuck.
I had to weld a nut to my stripped fill plug.
The 2 spider gears are known to fail on these Xterra’s. As well as the Frontiers and Titans of this era. Nissan eventually “upgraded” to 4 gears, which should help. Also the front diffs like to grenade under heavy shock load. Also, the rear diff breathers get clogged and blow axle seals. Nissan really under engineered the drivetrain components for this generation of trucks and SUVS.
Do Xterra's have the same 8 bolt 200c rear end. I have a 14 frontier it has a 200 rear and it is roaring. I wonder if it is the spider gears like this one.
My dads 2012 frontier has this exact issue growl while driving with no change with acceleration or deceleration. So no backlash issue. I thought it may have been axle bearings as the noise sounds like its outboard not inboard. Im going to check the spiders now thanks for the video!
I am doing all the bearings, spiders gears, and seals on this differential while I am in there. This does not use a bolt in the center pin for the spider gear but it uses a roll pin instead. I am going to post a video of me installing everything when I get the parts. Also if you need the spider gear part numbers let me know. I went through a lot to find them. Took nissan like two days to find them for some reason.
Ever find the problem?
I have a 2010 pro 4x woth the bigger rear end and have the same exact issue, started to hear it howl thought it was my mud tires until it got louder and knew it wasn't luckily mine is covered under a extended warranty I bought, hopefully it lasts another 3 years after the rebuild so I can sell it and get something else
That's good that the warranty covered it for you. I don't know what really causes these differentials to do this but seems to be really common on this generation of them.
en mi opinion es la cruzeta del cardan...tenia el mismo problema asi como ese ruido y hera la cruzeta que sostiene el cardan pegado al axel..
I replaced the rear differential in this truck 4 months prior to this video with a used one and replaced the u-joints at the same time along with a center support bearing as well. The u joints can cause a pinion bearing to go bad, which is what I'm assuming you are talking about. I agree with you on that. Which a bad u joint can cause many problems.
I have question for you I’m about to purchase a 2006 or it maybe a 2008 model frontier it 4x4 for a 1,000 off a friend’s uncle it been sitting awhile so I have to put tires on it and I’m sure some other things he said engine and transmission are good but said there an issue with the rear differential I just want since you owe one is worth buying for such a cheap price and replacing the rear if needed other then that is it a good truck? Worth putting some money into? Thanks
This is actually a customer's truck but I will think they are decent trucks other than a few small issues. The differential is one of the biggest issues they have. Depending on your area, you may be able to find differentials cheaper than rebuilding it. But, they also have two different rear differentials depending on the sub-model. For a grand I do not think it is a bad deal depending on the body shape (i.e. rust, dents, etc.) and how good the engine and transmission runs. If it was me and the truck ran decent and was not a total rust bucket I would get it and would not hesitate to put a little money in it. This is my opinion without actually seeing the truck and listening to it run.
As a side note, this seems to be a common problem with these differentials as I have read numerous forum posts stating this exact issue. Even to the point of one person stating to have changed them three times before hitting 100k miles.
Hello and thank you for the informative video. My 2001 xterra was making noise in every gear. I decided to remove the transmission thos week and I notice that the part with the 4 bolts attached to the differential where the drive shaft is bolted to has came apart about 1/4 inch and the truck just locked. It won't go forward or back not even in gear or neutral. So after watching your video I took off the differential cover to see the inside and there is not one drop of fluid. So thanks to you I decided to replace the differential. Thanks for your help.
@Jorge Hetnandez I'm glad that it helped it out. If you need any further information feel free to contact me on here and I will help anyway I can.
@@operationoverhaul thank you much. I plan on removing the whole differential tomorrow here in Georgia rain or shine. Thankfully another guy got rid of his tundra because of bad engine. I bought the manual transmission and differential for a good price.
my 2012 pro4x has a humming sound that starts around 40 miles/hr. It only happens when I accelerate or under load. Dealer said gears look ok and there was no metal stuck to the drain magnet. Some how water got in because the oil was brown. I’ve replaced the oil 3x already but the noise is still there. There was also signs of rust but not on the gear teeth themselves. Dealer suggested a new rear end but Im not convinced it needs replacing. Any suggestions.
Check the pinion seal for any signs of leaking and also check for any play in the pinion bearings. Do the same for axle seals and bearings as well.
I drained my fluid and noticed..something..attempting to exit drain plug hole. It was too big to exit and I nudged it up with my finger trying to figure out what it was. Any idea? Should I pull the cover and investigate further? Seems to be running fine
I would pull the cover off to inspect it better but how much metal was on the magnet of the drain plug?
If this is comfort five months later, I took the cover off of my diff, and mr centre pin and some teeth dropped on out, totally wack
Would have been beneficial to have shown the viewers what the growl / noise sounded like.
I agree I should have let everyone know what it sounded like. This was a really early video for me and I was still learning, still do on every video, what needed to go into the videos and what needs to be taken out. I will say that was a loud rubbing sound as if you had a flat tire or even like you were driving on a rough road, almost like gravel.
I appreciate you, brother.
@@F-15spec your welcome
You should take fill plug out first
Yeah I did not think about it then. It would make the fluid flow out quicker and make sure you can actually get the plug out first.
Which rear axle is this ?
This is the C200 rear differential.
@operationoverhaul I'm doing a pinion bearing on a 07 frontier but the damn bearing I got was wrong and now I cannot find it anywhere lol the dealer said they don't sell it separately from the diff. It's my mom's truck too and I got it stuck in my bay at work and I'm just extremely fucked lol
@@mmorales3363 have you watched my other videos on this rear diff? I completely rebuilt one and have all the part numbers on the description. So you need the pinion bearing?
@operationoverhaul I haven't watched the other ones, but I will check them out now, and yes outer pinion bearing
@@mmorales3363 This is the factory part number for the c200 differential outer pinion bearing: R35-60U2U42-20-11
Hi, what year model truck was this and how many miles was on it?
This was a 2008 with close to 135k miles.
Thanks, I have a 2010 2WD 157K, I just started no noticing the rear roaring noise it seems to be getting worse every day. Is this something that I need to address immediately? Do you recommend finding a good junkyard rear end or having someone professionally rebuild it?
@@nickmizell1141 your welcome. I would first do a fluid drain to see how much, if any, metal was in the fluid. Then I would check the pinion for any play to eliminate a pinion bearing. These would be the two easiest/ quickest checks before diving deep into it.
What did you find out was wrong?