Over the The past few years I have benefited from your Repair videos. My compliments to you and your staff on your Professional work in making them. They are no nonsense, and to the point. You don’t have to watch someone having breakfast and see pictures of their girlfriend walking around before they get to the repair. Thank you, keep it straight into the point. Shame on me for taking so long, but I figured I should at least buy some parts from you, in exchange for all the benefits I have received from your videos. After ordering, I checked some of the competitions prices. Yes you were the cheapest! The part I ordered arrived super fast early in the day shipped by UPS. It was extremely well packaged . (it was a long propeller shaft that was packaged in a plywood reinforced box) You guys are the best. Keep up the good work, God Bless, Roger
Other then u adding an "R" to the word vehicle lol this guy is my go to Everytime I have a problem with my truck that I don't already know about so to this specific A-1 mechanic THANK YOU FOR EVERY VIDEO U MAKE AND NOTHING BUT THE HIGHEST RESPECT AND APPRECIATION !!!!!!
When a carrier bearing goes bad, replace ALL the U joints. Don't replace all the U joints "just" because you have the shaft out... there's a reason why they should be replaced at once. When a carrier bearing or U joint goes out, it causes the other U joints to wear unevenly especially if the carrier bearing is bad. Uneven wear creates vibrations, and later on you'll be changing the other U joints, and quite possibly changing the ones you've done replaced before. Carrier bearings and U joints work together as a team, when one goes, it'll force the other ones to go even if you don't realize it right away. When a drive shaft wiggles on one end from a bad joint or carrier bearing, the other end is binding up on the other U joint.
I don't know if anyone else mentioned it yet, but the drive shaft needs to be reinstalled in the same position as it came out, especially parts like the center support bearing.
Funny this video came out this morning, drove my WRX yesterday noticing a slight vibration. First thing I thought of was drive line...............checking it out today. Thanks Len
I changed the tires and got a new transfer case and driveshaft in my 2012 4x4 Jeep commander...and I still feel vibrations when I drive almost constantly ..I haven’t paid attention to the noice much. I wonder if I got bad U joints..steering feels fine too...just feels like when you drive off the road and hit the ruts on the shoulder of the road and it vibrates real bad to get your attention. That’s my best explanation on how it feels.
In my case they replaced the transmission for a rebuilt and now I think the drive shaft is unbalanced somehow it's all a 250 Ford van 2009 let me know what you think by the way very well explained video
Will that u joint cause intermittent vibrations between 40 - 45 mph in a 4x4 in drive cruising speed? Vibration will feel like your going over rumble strips or sleeper lines.
Warsh hands I get that my mom always said that. But vericle.😳😳😳 there's not even an accent that you could blame that on. Good video I guess very informative. But I thought he was going to bust out in a cheer at one point. I didn't know you could even flail your arms around in that manner without breaking all the bones in your elbows. Give me a V E R I C L E . What's that spell? Go team vericle drive shaft.😂😂😂😂😂😂
Vibration, to the point of severe when turning right.Also when accelerating up to 30 miles an hour, severe vibration.All in the rear and seemingly to the right. Quattro 1999 A4.What do you think? I had two different size tires for 3000 miles's before I realized and had it fixed.Then the skipping vibrations from the rear.
I just bought it 2001 f350. The guy was telling/showing me it was vibrating a little bit between 30-40 mph but it went away he thinks it might be the carrier bearing saying I should replace soon and should be only around $100 but he let me load up my Tahoe, on the trailer that I drove all the way down there to pick up the truck with, to drive back saying I should be good. but yo check it out when I get home (322miles)because this is the first time I ever drove diesel n not knowing what to expect he said your going to heat so kind of noises you'll be fine and I wasn't sure if it was vibrating or not because of the tires but i was pulling the Tahoe and was got about a 140 down the highway towards home. I went to get over to get fuel as I got over I pushed brake pedal to slow down. All of the sudden I heard a BAM! as I went to slow down( from 70mph)!! the next thing you know drive shaft is gone and I'm coasting up exit ramp, why would braking cause that, would you know? Its a 7.3 that's tuned(?)at 100hp? This is My first diesel so i'm not familiar with them. I bought this because engine(35k) n trans. ( larger trans cooler) were redone 2 yrs ago. Oh yeah walked down highway and couldn't find driveshaft that took the ujoint n yolk with it, waiting for tow truck now as I ask this. $840 tow 177miles😔 Anyways would you know why rear driveshaft would pop off while braking? Lose pin rings holding them onto ujoints n combination with bad carrier bearing or so I have worse problems Thank you in advance for any info anyone can give!!
Great video, thanks for the info, trying to chase down a random vibration/ shake in my 2000 Ford expedition 2 Wheel Dr., I replaced both U joints put it back in and it still has the vibration between 45 and 60 miles an hour, randomly, it won’t do it every time but sometimes you’re just driving along and all of a sudden the whole truck starts vibrating/shaking any ideas? Thanks
+rotfan77 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Have a shop check your hubs or see if you need a balance on you wheels. My mom veichle only on highways have a vibration issue at 50 to 65mph thats cause from us getting a new set of rims that wasnt balanced correctly.
Bought a used 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the driveshaft made a clunking sound for a few months. When I finally had it checked out I was told the whole drive shaft was bad. The cooling o rings were bad as well. Had all of it Fixed, and now the car runs so smooth. It’s unbelievable. It would drip oil everywhere, every time. Now it is fixed and thanks to the mechanic I have I feel it was fair price to pay compared to a local dealer which would have cost me thousands to fix when it was simple to diagnose with a good mechanic. I was ready to just throw away the car lol
I have a 2002 grand Cherokee and I have had this car for only a few months. The clunking noise was there when I got it and it’s only getting worse. I’m pretty sure it has something to do with the driveline. So maybe i have to do something similar
Hey, if center support baring on a propeller shaft makes a howling/whining noise at below freezing temperatures for a short period of time, does the issue need to be addressed or can be ignored?
Wish i would've seen this video last year. Cause we just had to replace ours and this would've saved us a good amount of cash. I'm no expert but i worked as a production worker on the assembly line also doing bolting threading an much more.
Had front tires changed on my AWD 13 Nissan rogue back had good tread left ever since I did that I've noticed a bang sound coming from I believe is the rear of the car mostly after stopping and then going again like backing out of driveway and leaving a parking lot where you turn but it doesn't always do it during the turn help I'm kinda lost
Helpful but COULD YOU PLEASE DO MORE VIDEOS ON 1ST, SECOND, AND 3RD GEN RAM 1500 4X4 i have the 3rd gen and there are close to none on the drive train, axles repair, ujoints, or more diagnostics
@@1AAuto maybe you should try some less common cars. I know of at least 2,000-5,000 people including myself that own 02-04 xterras and there is more and more everyday. Ive been watching all of your videos and I think Ive seen 2 or 3 nissans. None of them xterras and on the 1a auto page the closest I can get to my vehicle is all the frontier videos.
Don't forget the splines at the slip end into transfer case and also at the carrier bearing my 2011 dodge 3500 keeps wearing the blue costing off the slip at the carrier and it vibrates. Always grease at 10k and doesn't last more then 2 years.
do we need to put grease into the spine if it goes into the transfer case? I hear a clunking sound and I think the spline is hitting the transfer case.
I suspect this is the problem in my 04 Nissan Pathfinder. Every time I maintain a constant speed (whether 20mph or 45mph) my whole vehicle tends to wobble back and forth. So I have to either speed up or let go of gasp peddle to get out of wobble, also when I hit a bump I hear something under the center console that feels loose. Tires are fine. Wonder if this could be the problem.
+Eduardo Marin We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Really need some help here ... Would a weak (not as stout as the original) driveshaft cause a 2006 Pontiac Torrent AWD to vibrate under hard acceleration or while turning left or right. BTW ... 1. The two-piece driveshaft and carrier bearing are less than two years old. 2. Same applies to Motor and Transmission Mounts, plus Bushings, Control Arms, Ball Joints, etc. 3. In short, all items are fairly new except the tires that are five years old (General RT-43s).
Do the front drive shaft and slip yoke need to be aligned or 90 degrees off. I have a 99 F350 with this exact assembly and am suspecting it was put together incorrectly.
During maintenance on my rear control arms the drive shaft was accidentally pulled out from the transfer case. How can I insure that I am re-installing the drive shaft back into the transfer case so that the shaft is in proper balance?
Are both u joints on the rear drive shaft that go from the transfer case to the rear end on a 04 Avalanche 1500 the same size on both ends of the drive shaft?
Can you fix my Jeep Liberty? First I started hearing clicking, then clunking, then clunking and catching then increasingly higher vibrations, I think it’s all drive shaft related but I don’t really have the means to fix it
My first car I was 17.... bought a cheap Mercedes ml500 for 1,000 bucks..... over a quarter million miles..... had the carrier bearing explode at 70 mph on the Mass Turnpike coming into Boston..... very scary
A driveshat can moved jus a little to the left and right when is used the hands ? the question is if you take with your two hands the drive shaft you can turned left and right just a little that is ok or it's a problem I meaning the drive shaft connected to transfer case have to be tied ?
I have a drive shaft in a GMC Sonoma that I changed the universal joint song but I still have a slight vibration what would happen if the drive shaft was put in 180° out
I have a question, I have 2014 accord , 4 days ago it vibrated every time I stepped on the gas. Today I turned it on just fine but when I switch it to D (drive) it goes nowhere like it literally revs but doesn’t move same with reverse. Could it be the head gasket or is it the drive shaft, and how much would either of those repair cost if you had to guess??
From my experience with a Honda Accord with the same issue, what is the transmission fluid quantity and quality? Is the fluid level at the full “COLD” level or the full “HOT” level after the car reaches operating temperature? I agree with the first commenter that the symptoms you described definitely resemble a transmission issue. How many miles are on the vehicle? And when was the last time you changed the transmission fluid and filter (it may or may not have a replaceable filter)?
I have a 2002 gmc savana 2500. Had a new carrier bearing installed ,and new u joints now there is a very bad vibration that was never there befor.please help
The problem I'm having is the tranfercase ceal keep leaking I've replaced it three times and about 2000 miles it starts again I've replaced all the ujoints and carrier bearing I still have a vibration at about 55 miles an hour to 65 then it gos away any advice
Can someone explain to me about GMs drive shaft that has a small segment with two u joints close together and some kind of doodad in between them? And then how to check if it's good?
I think my rear end is going out when I go into reverse I can feel my rear end lock up and then it'll pop back into gear it makes my truck jump do you think that's the rear end??
There is a woo woo when coming to a complete stop coming from the rear end of my 01 jeep WJ with 186k miles It’s rwd Is this a bad u joint or the diff?
My pickup keeps dropping the rear driveshaft. Replaced the u joint multiple times and even the drive shaft and it still fell out. And transfer case exploded and took out overdrive housing. What might be causing my driveshaft to keep falling out?
I think you might’ve forgotten to check 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock for the rear wheels everything is in good condition on my 2015, F350 power stroke except for the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock.when I rock the wheel back in forth it’s shifting the other side is solid what could cause this ?
+JUAN CHAVEZ We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have 2004 Cadillac Escalade and my girl drove over a curb. Now there's a knocking sound coming from underneath the truck. . and ideas of wat it could be?
What if a rope gets stuck and you hear a noise while your driving pull over and see a rope wrapped around the shaft i go to unravel it and noise stopped and drove like nothing happend but could that have cause it to damage stopping it from moving??
BTW, on my FWD car. I have a bit of clicking UV joints (when turning under throttle). My steering wheel is vibratig at higher speeds (highway). The suspension is completely fine, and so are the tyres (balanced too). Could the UV joints be the cause of the steering wheel vibrations?
@@andrewcastleberry4921 that is the UK (“English” - people) way of spelling that word and since a majority of English language training for Europe (Western-Russia) originated from UK (England) that is their “correct” spelling.
I think, if you have issue with more then one component, replace the whole thing. You have old ugly rusty part in front of you, that if you DIYer and never done this before, it may take you contless hours to repair... just get a new thing. They are not so expensive. A GKN brand rear driveshaft was about $270 for my 2013 Range Rover Sport. In many instances you'd find those caps for U-joints point welded so replacement is not even an option. Also there is a matter of balance, from factory driveshafts come balanced, just like wheels, if you dig trough the whole thing, there is no guarantee that balancing will not be disturbed, at least take a chalk and draw straight line trough the whole shaft so when components will be assembled, you can put them in the same line as from factory bacase they will fit rotated 180° just as good. Also, there is matter of safety, do you know what might happen if driveshaft was not properly assembled and splits while car is driven? Not only it can destroy everything near, it can probably flip the car. Also, what author does not mention: Bolts that hold driveshaft to transmission and especially to rear differential are very high tension, torque required is usually greater then wheel lugnuts, most of the manufacturers declare them one time use, once taken out, discard and use new ones. Should you ignore it, at least apply some red threadlocker as new bolts have than pre-applied.Just as example - wheel lugnuts on my RRS need to be torqued to 105lbs, bolts for the rear of driveshafts 110lbs while being nearly half as thick VS bolts holding the wheels. Metals do get tired and weaken structurally. Also, before you take out driveshaft, please google torque specs and have torque wrench. If you do not tight them enough - its bad, if you try to hard and brake one of the bolts, it would be pita to fix that.
Check your sway bar links probably have one thats broken or rubber bushings are worn out. If they're good then check motor mounts, common issue for that year model.
my old 08 ford f150 2wd 4.6L dryshaft is coded 8L34-4K145-SA.is it ok if i swap that for a dryshaft thats coded 4L34-4k145-TE? is there a big difference? will it work?
I have a 2008 yukon slt and it jerks/jump while turning, i dont hear any transmission noise that i know of. I do have the stabilitrak light on. Someone told me to try and replace the mass air flow sensor on even though the check engine does not show it. I haven’t done so & am curious to fix it. Any ideas?
I replaced the u joints , and have new tires and balmced recently with a new brake job .. 55 mph and up the vibrations are like a wobble .. so I replaced u joints and it persists . My mechanic said it could be the diff . I have Dakota r/t with posi And it drives fine it still spins tires etc but I can’t drive in highway with out this wobble and it stays all away to max speed , fine below 45;. It vibrates even when coasting On or off gas I don’t wanna junk the truck because the rear differential I can’t afford
+Eejit We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
My 2011 grand Cherokee vibrates horribly at 1600-2100 RPM. Coincidentally I just had the differential and transfer case serviced and the vibration started after. But after troubleshooting quite a bit, I’m pretty sure this is the issue.
Please let us know what happened? I have the same or similar issue on my 2010 grand cherokee and I'm trying to diagnose it. There is a resonant humming/growling sound with vibration at similar rpm only when my foot is on the accelerator.
So I got brake pads and rotor replaced and car was driving quite nice comfortable next day and then same day in one parking I got lost in thoughts and may or may not I just did engine on but not drive mode on when started car with keys (might have moved keys a little but not all the way on) (I am not sure. I was having baby with me and bit distracted with her cry). But when I got it in rear gear and started driving I felt brake is not working so I pulled hand brake and then again tried to move gear in Drive gear and tried but couldn’t slam brake and area was slope so car was driving and I didn’t realize if i just moved key all the way ON or not so I felt car is driving but something wrong with brake since I got them repaired previous day so had this presumption while trying to fix the issue and I tried one more time by moving gear from parking to drive then one time I moved gear from drive to parking directly in hurry rather pulling the handbrake this time while it was engine on but not complete (if it was the case) only mode so then I restarted with key again by moving it all the way this time to make sure that i started it right way and it was working fine and car started having brake work but I felt something wrong cause it become noisy and my brake are vibrating when I am pressing them to brake it’s like not agitating but like slightly hmmmm feel in car body and brakes which wasn’t there before the mess when it started and doesn’t feel smooth quite ride. I somehow finished my 80 miles ride cause car was feeling noisy bit vibrating but was driving. So I took to mechanic next day morning and said if brakes are ok then he said I need wheel balance so I went for wheel balance but I am still feeling 20% of vibrations and noise. I sometimes hear some metal clicking sound underneath. It’s like as if i am cracking my bones same way as if cars parts got stuck and when moving get piping sound. So if did I mess up transmission or struts and coil or something which is causing this. Right now vibrations are not that bad but they are still not completely quite which was in beginning before all that parking incident. So if I go to mechanic they randomly suggesting different things and not sure what could be issues. Someone suggested struts replacement and someone said could be transmission issues and each things costs more than 500-1500 range. So what would be the best way to diagnose and fix this issue if anyone had such experience. If I have to replace struts and coil which brand is best and should i buy online and get them to mechanic as the cost of mechanic suggested one is double than anything is being sold online. I hope it may make ride quite and silent plus less noisy if i buy myself better quality with same inflated price of mechanic and just give it to him. Do I need to check my brakes again? Please suggest. It’s 2011 Corolla base model. Note: I am mostly very mindful and careful when I drive cars and somehow don’t know whether it was bad day or what but I completely lost in presumptions and instead of single time turning key off and then On o kept on using parking gear and hand brake to get it right and if that might have messed transmission and struts or some other parts of the car.
hello I have a mercedes 180c w202 if I accelerate a lot, it will bump a bit when driving, it is no longer gears well, it is the hardy disck thanks greetings fernando Sout spain
Changed 03 drive shaft because it was making a clunking sound AMD not going into reverse or neutral but was driving forward with no problem. Since ive changed the drive shaft now ots going into reverse and neutral but wont go into drive. When put in drive its making a sound as if the drive shaft and transmission aren't syncing. Please help
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😊😊 sad da
I always learn a lot about veercles from 1-A Auto
How he gets an “R” sound from the word “vehicle” is beyond me
Like how some people say "Warsh"
Lol I know
Vericul
Veericle
eckscape
I'm so grateful for you guys! After I bought a used suburban with high miles, I've referred to your videos multiple times to help diagnose problems.
Over the The past few years I have benefited from your Repair videos.
My compliments to you and your staff on your Professional work in making them.
They are no nonsense, and to the point.
You don’t have to watch someone having breakfast and see pictures of their girlfriend walking around before they get to the repair.
Thank you, keep it straight into the point.
Shame on me for taking so long, but I figured I should at least buy some parts from you, in exchange for all the benefits
I have received from your videos.
After ordering, I checked some of the competitions prices. Yes you were the cheapest! The part I ordered arrived super fast early in the day shipped by UPS. It was extremely well packaged .
(it was a long propeller shaft that was packaged in a plywood reinforced box)
You guys are the best.
Keep up the good work,
God Bless, Roger
Man it's something about you this seems honest all the rest of these assholes man I don't trust more believe him
Other then u adding an "R" to the word vehicle lol this guy is my go to Everytime I have a problem with my truck that I don't already know about so to this specific A-1 mechanic THANK YOU FOR EVERY VIDEO U MAKE AND NOTHING BUT THE HIGHEST RESPECT AND APPRECIATION !!!!!!
Oh thank you for showing how to diagnose a bad drive shaft on a vehicle. It really help.
+Twj Kum Liab Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
When a carrier bearing goes bad, replace ALL the U joints. Don't replace all the U joints "just" because you have the shaft out... there's a reason why they should be replaced at once. When a carrier bearing or U joint goes out, it causes the other U joints to wear unevenly especially if the carrier bearing is bad. Uneven wear creates vibrations, and later on you'll be changing the other U joints, and quite possibly changing the ones you've done replaced before. Carrier bearings and U joints work together as a team, when one goes, it'll force the other ones to go even if you don't realize it right away. When a drive shaft wiggles on one end from a bad joint or carrier bearing, the other end is binding up on the other U joint.
Good point
I don't know if anyone else mentioned it yet, but the drive shaft needs to be reinstalled in the same position as it came out, especially parts like the center support bearing.
Funny this video came out this morning, drove my WRX yesterday noticing a slight vibration. First thing I thought of was drive line...............checking it out today. Thanks Len
+Chat Kat Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I changed the tires and got a new transfer case and driveshaft in my 2012 4x4 Jeep commander...and I still feel vibrations when I drive almost constantly ..I haven’t paid attention to the noice much. I wonder if I got bad U joints..steering feels fine too...just feels like when you drive off the road and hit the ruts on the shoulder of the road and it vibrates real bad to get your attention. That’s my best explanation on how it feels.
Did you ever figure out what it was?
helped me with my vericle. thanks a bunch
You might want to check for play (lose-ness, for those with out mechanical knowledge) before pulling the shaft!
old school
In my case they replaced the transmission for a rebuilt and now I think the drive shaft is unbalanced somehow it's all a 250 Ford van 2009 let me know what you think by the way very well explained video
Thanks for the help with my "veircle", it's been "ekspecially" informative.
Will that u joint cause intermittent vibrations between 40 - 45 mph in a 4x4 in drive cruising speed? Vibration will feel like your going over rumble strips or sleeper lines.
Vericle? Damn I’ve been saying it wrong my whole life. Also I should start wearing gloves, that way there’s no need to “warsh” my hands😂
LMFAO!! thk u for the laughs!! i needed that!!
Warsh hands I get that my mom always said that. But vericle.😳😳😳 there's not even an accent that you could blame that on. Good video I guess very informative. But I thought he was going to bust out in a cheer at one point. I didn't know you could even flail your arms around in that manner without breaking all the bones in your elbows. Give me a V E R I C L E . What's that spell? Go team vericle drive shaft.😂😂😂😂😂😂
Great content i have a 06 jeep commander i think i have a U joint issue do you think i should change only the U Joints or the entire Drive Shaft
Vibration, to the point of severe when turning right.Also when accelerating up to 30 miles an hour, severe vibration.All in the rear and seemingly to the right. Quattro 1999 A4.What do you think? I had two different size tires for 3000 miles's before I realized and had it fixed.Then the skipping vibrations from the rear.
I just bought it 2001 f350. The guy was telling/showing me it was vibrating a little bit between 30-40 mph but it went away he thinks it might be the carrier bearing saying I should replace soon and should be only around $100 but he let me load up my Tahoe, on the trailer that I drove all the way down there to pick up the truck with, to drive back saying I should be good. but yo check it out when I get home (322miles)because this is the first time I ever drove diesel n not knowing what to expect he said your going to heat so kind of noises you'll be fine and I wasn't sure if it was vibrating or not because of the tires but i was pulling the Tahoe and was got about a 140 down the highway towards home. I went to get over to get fuel as I got over I pushed brake pedal to slow down. All of the sudden I heard a BAM! as I went to slow down( from 70mph)!! the next thing you know drive shaft is gone and I'm coasting up exit ramp, why would braking cause that, would you know? Its a 7.3 that's tuned(?)at 100hp? This is My first diesel so i'm not familiar with them. I bought this because engine(35k) n trans. ( larger trans cooler) were redone 2 yrs ago. Oh yeah walked down highway and couldn't find driveshaft that took the ujoint n yolk with it, waiting for tow truck now as I ask this. $840 tow 177miles😔
Anyways would you know why rear driveshaft would pop off while braking? Lose pin rings holding them onto ujoints n combination with bad carrier bearing or so I have worse problems
Thank you in advance for any info anyone can give!!
Thanks for posting this!
+Richard L Martin Jr Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
You guys have the best products hands down!!
Great video, thanks for the info, trying to chase down a random vibration/ shake in my 2000 Ford expedition 2 Wheel Dr., I replaced both U joints put it back in and it still has the vibration between 45 and 60 miles an hour, randomly, it won’t do it every time but sometimes you’re just driving along and all of a sudden the whole truck starts vibrating/shaking any ideas? Thanks
+rotfan77 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Have a shop check your hubs or see if you need a balance on you wheels. My mom veichle only on highways have a vibration issue at 50 to 65mph thats cause from us getting a new set of rims that wasnt balanced correctly.
Did you find a solution ?? My expedition 07 started doing the same thing about a week ago ??? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks
The splines to yolk where the two shafts merge maybe worn so splines need teflon grease
Every video, get slapped with the VERICLE my guy. Well played
Replace the whole thing. It looks like something pulled from the bottom of the sea.
+Ауто камере Србија / Dash cams Serbia Thanks for the tip!
You must not be from the Rust Belt
Always enjoy your work.
Have y'all figured out the infamous clunk first to second shift in gm vehicles.03 tahoe lt awd with 4 low...
Bought a used 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the driveshaft made a clunking sound for a few months. When I finally had it checked out I was told the whole drive shaft was bad. The cooling o rings were bad as well. Had all of it Fixed, and now the car runs so smooth. It’s unbelievable. It would drip oil everywhere, every time. Now it is fixed and thanks to the mechanic I have I feel it was fair price to pay compared to a local dealer which would have cost me thousands to fix when it was simple to diagnose with a good mechanic. I was ready to just throw away the car lol
I have a 2002 grand Cherokee and I have had this car for only a few months. The clunking noise was there when I got it and it’s only getting worse. I’m pretty sure it has something to do with the driveline. So maybe i have to do something similar
Your channel and videos are the best
Hey, if center support baring on a propeller shaft makes a howling/whining noise at below freezing temperatures for a short period of time, does the issue need to be addressed or can be ignored?
Good video! Simple terms. Good advice to replace all!!
For 4WD applications, does the front shorter shaft have to be in PHASE with the rear shaft?
+ABBI NOLOVE Thanks for the feedback!
@@1AAuto I’m asking a question, not leaving feedback lol
Wish i would've seen this video last year. Cause we just had to replace ours and this would've saved us a good amount of cash. I'm no expert but i worked as a production worker on the assembly line also doing bolting threading an much more.
verical
I can’t wait to check mine out on my veericle.
Had front tires changed on my AWD 13 Nissan rogue back had good tread left ever since I did that I've noticed a bang sound coming from I believe is the rear of the car mostly after stopping and then going again like backing out of driveway and leaving a parking lot where you turn but it doesn't always do it during the turn help I'm kinda lost
Wow a nice mechanic lol I'm a mechanic and I'm not this charismatic to be around 😐 great video sir! 👨🏻🔧
+Kyle Maciag Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I'm going to go out and check my vertical now.
Helpful but COULD YOU PLEASE DO MORE VIDEOS ON 1ST, SECOND, AND 3RD GEN RAM 1500 4X4 i have the 3rd gen and there are close to none on the drive train, axles repair, ujoints, or more diagnostics
+A Mjr We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
It seems like if youre taking it off you may as well replace those u joints and carrier
Now we just need a video for changing all the u joints. Especially the steering u joint.
+Dominic Devito We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1AAuto.com
@@1AAuto maybe you should try some less common cars. I know of at least 2,000-5,000 people including myself that own 02-04 xterras and there is more and more everyday. Ive been watching all of your videos and I think Ive seen 2 or 3 nissans. None of them xterras and on the 1a auto page the closest I can get to my vehicle is all the frontier videos.
Dominic Devito buy American vehicles like GM, and you can find anything on them! WE are GM people in this country.
Excellent video!
Don't forget the splines at the slip end into transfer case and also at the carrier bearing my 2011 dodge 3500 keeps wearing the blue costing off the slip at the carrier and it vibrates. Always grease at 10k and doesn't last more then 2 years.
How much does it matter if you replace an aluminum drive shaft with a steel drive shaft?
thanks man...i spun the tyres and found the tread was puffed up!...right in the middle of a tread...went from flat to concave :(
Nicely Done, Very Nicely Done!
do we need to put grease into the spine if it goes into the transfer case? I hear a clunking sound and I think the spline is hitting the transfer case.
I suspect this is the problem in my 04 Nissan Pathfinder. Every time I maintain a constant speed (whether 20mph or 45mph) my whole vehicle tends to wobble back and forth. So I have to either speed up or let go of gasp peddle to get out of wobble, also when I hit a bump I hear something under the center console that feels loose. Tires are fine. Wonder if this could be the problem.
+Eduardo Marin We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I'd say carrier bearing
I'm thinking that carrier bearing is causing a faint humming noise I'm hearing at around 70 mph. But it looks to be in decent condition.
Really need some help here ... Would a weak (not as stout as the original) driveshaft cause a 2006 Pontiac Torrent AWD to vibrate under hard acceleration or while turning left or right.
BTW ...
1. The two-piece driveshaft and carrier bearing are less than two years old.
2. Same applies to Motor and Transmission Mounts, plus Bushings, Control Arms, Ball Joints, etc.
3. In short, all items are fairly new except the tires that are five years old (General RT-43s).
Do the front drive shaft and slip yoke need to be aligned or 90 degrees off. I have a 99 F350 with this exact assembly and am suspecting it was put together incorrectly.
I have a question how can bad u-joints affect the operations of 4 x 4 in a 3.7 Jeep Liberty 04 model automatic
During maintenance on my rear control arms the drive shaft was accidentally pulled out from the transfer case. How can I insure that I am re-installing the drive shaft back into the transfer case so that the shaft is in proper balance?
Your video was very informative, thanks for sharing!🤗
Are both u joints on the rear drive shaft that go from the transfer case to the rear end on a 04 Avalanche 1500 the same size on both ends of the drive shaft?
How much can I expect to pay at a shop for this work?
Can you fix my Jeep Liberty? First I started hearing clicking, then clunking, then clunking and catching then increasingly higher vibrations, I think it’s all drive shaft related but I don’t really have the means to fix it
Have you noticed that place on the “vericle” where it says Jeep? There’s your problem!
Thank you from CR
Caution when removing driveshaft. Ebrake and chock tires. Unless on a lift
My first car I was 17.... bought a cheap Mercedes ml500 for 1,000 bucks..... over a quarter million miles..... had the carrier bearing explode at 70 mph on the Mass Turnpike coming into Boston..... very scary
What's a "veerhicle"??
A driveshat can moved jus a little to the left and right when is used the hands ?
the question is if you take with your two hands the drive shaft you can turned left and right just a little that is ok or it's a problem I meaning the drive shaft connected to transfer case have to be tied ?
How do you work om vehicles but can't say vehicle? Can say all them other words right but can't master vehicle yet 😂
I have a drive shaft in a GMC Sonoma that I changed the universal joint song but I still have a slight vibration what would happen if the drive shaft was put in 180° out
to me it makes sense to replace what is broken.
Great videos thanks
I have a question, I have 2014 accord , 4 days ago it vibrated every time I stepped on the gas. Today I turned it on just fine but when I switch it to D (drive) it goes nowhere like it literally revs but doesn’t move same with reverse. Could it be the head gasket or is it the drive shaft, and how much would either of those repair cost if you had to guess??
Sounds like a transmission issue. Hopefully just the linkage and not the whole tranny.
From my experience with a Honda Accord with the same issue, what is the transmission fluid quantity and quality? Is the fluid level at the full “COLD” level or the full “HOT” level after the car reaches operating temperature? I agree with the first commenter that the symptoms you described definitely resemble a transmission issue. How many miles are on the vehicle? And when was the last time you changed the transmission fluid and filter (it may or may not have a replaceable filter)?
I have a 2002 gmc savana 2500. Had a new carrier bearing installed ,and new u joints now there is a very bad vibration that was never there befor.please help
The problem I'm having is the tranfercase ceal keep leaking I've replaced it three times and about 2000 miles it starts again I've replaced all the ujoints and carrier bearing I still have a vibration at about 55 miles an hour to 65 then it gos away any advice
Vericle??
Hi my prob or back axle is clunky every turn of the wheel and at speed it's whining back axle hot to touch
That’s how he rolls in his vericle
Can someone explain to me about GMs drive shaft that has a small segment with two u joints close together and some kind of doodad in between them? And then how to check if it's good?
I think my rear end is going out when I go into reverse I can feel my rear end lock up and then it'll pop back into gear it makes my truck jump do you think that's the rear end??
There is a woo woo when coming to a complete stop coming from the rear end of my 01 jeep WJ with 186k miles
It’s rwd
Is this a bad u joint or the diff?
My pickup keeps dropping the rear driveshaft. Replaced the u joint multiple times and even the drive shaft and it still fell out. And transfer case exploded and took out overdrive housing. What might be causing my driveshaft to keep falling out?
Always S good to learn and remaining us how to check and maintain the car 👍👍✌
Just changed my u joint rear by rear diff and now it's vibrating not normal before didn't have this at all any suggestions?
Very thorough. Great info
+Aaron Shensky Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I think you might’ve forgotten to check 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock for the rear wheels everything is in good condition on my 2015, F350 power stroke except for the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock.when I rock the wheel back in forth it’s shifting the other side is solid what could cause this ?
+JUAN CHAVEZ We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
My u joint rubs the floor of the truck under torque. Lift kit problems. Gonna have to make some space somehow
I have 2004 Cadillac Escalade and my girl drove over a curb. Now there's a knocking sound coming from underneath the truck. . and ideas of wat it could be?
Does It Go by the mileage how many miles you do a year to change the U-joints
What if a rope gets stuck and you hear a noise while your driving pull over and see a rope wrapped around the shaft i go to unravel it and noise stopped and drove like nothing happend but could that have cause it to damage stopping it from moving??
Very nice!
BTW, on my FWD car. I have a bit of clicking UV joints (when turning under throttle). My steering wheel is vibratig at higher speeds (highway). The suspension is completely fine, and so are the tyres (balanced too). Could the UV joints be the cause of the steering wheel vibrations?
A Russian with good English. That is rare.
*tires
@@andrewcastleberry4921 that is the UK (“English” - people) way of spelling that word and since a majority of English language training for Europe (Western-Russia) originated from UK (England) that is their “correct” spelling.
I think, if you have issue with more then one component, replace the whole thing.
You have old ugly rusty part in front of you, that if you DIYer and never done this before, it may take you contless hours to repair... just get a new thing. They are not so expensive. A GKN brand rear driveshaft was about $270 for my 2013 Range Rover Sport.
In many instances you'd find those caps for U-joints point welded so replacement is not even an option.
Also there is a matter of balance, from factory driveshafts come balanced, just like wheels, if you dig trough the whole thing, there is no guarantee that balancing will not be disturbed, at least take a chalk and draw straight line trough the whole shaft so when components will be assembled, you can put them in the same line as from factory bacase they will fit rotated 180° just as good.
Also, there is matter of safety, do you know what might happen if driveshaft was not properly assembled and splits while car is driven? Not only it can destroy everything near, it can probably flip the car.
Also, what author does not mention:
Bolts that hold driveshaft to transmission and especially to rear differential are very high tension, torque required is usually greater then wheel lugnuts, most of the manufacturers declare them one time use, once taken out, discard and use new ones. Should you ignore it, at least apply some red threadlocker as new bolts have than pre-applied.Just as example - wheel lugnuts on my RRS need to be torqued to 105lbs, bolts for the rear of driveshafts 110lbs while being nearly half as thick VS bolts holding the wheels. Metals do get tired and weaken structurally.
Also, before you take out driveshaft, please google torque specs and have torque wrench. If you do not tight them enough - its bad, if you try to hard and brake one of the bolts, it would be pita to fix that.
+Roman D We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
Is there a reason why transmission fluid was pouring out when my drive shaft fell to ground after ujoints broke?
I have a 2007 GMC Yukon XL Denali and when I come to a stop it feels like if someone hit me from behind . Any suggestions on what it could be
Check your sway bar links probably have one thats broken or rubber bushings are worn out. If they're good then check motor mounts, common issue for that year model.
my old 08 ford f150 2wd 4.6L dryshaft is coded 8L34-4K145-SA.is it ok if i swap that for a dryshaft thats coded 4L34-4k145-TE? is there a big difference? will it work?
I have a 2008 yukon slt and it jerks/jump while turning, i dont hear any transmission noise that i know of. I do have the stabilitrak light on. Someone told me to try and replace the mass air flow sensor on even though the check engine does not show it. I haven’t done so & am curious to fix it. Any ideas?
Thank you
I replaced the u joints , and have new tires and balmced recently with a new brake job .. 55 mph and up the vibrations are like a wobble .. so I replaced u joints and it persists . My mechanic said it could be the diff . I have Dakota r/t with posi And it drives fine it still spins tires etc but I can’t drive in highway with out this wobble and it stays all away to max speed , fine below 45;. It vibrates even when coasting On or off gas I don’t wanna junk the truck because the rear differential I can’t afford
+Eejit We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
My 2011 grand Cherokee vibrates horribly at 1600-2100 RPM. Coincidentally I just had the differential and transfer case serviced and the vibration started after. But after troubleshooting quite a bit, I’m pretty sure this is the issue.
Please let us know what happened? I have the same or similar issue on my 2010 grand cherokee and I'm trying to diagnose it. There is a resonant humming/growling sound with vibration at similar rpm only when my foot is on the accelerator.
@@depth_and_breadth5255 I have the same issue
Thanks
So I got brake pads and rotor replaced and car was driving quite nice comfortable next day and then same day in one parking I got lost in thoughts and may or may not I just did engine on but not drive mode on when started car with keys (might have moved keys a little but not all the way on) (I am not sure. I was having baby with me and bit distracted with her cry). But when I got it in rear gear and started driving I felt brake is not working so I pulled hand brake and then again tried to move gear in Drive gear and tried but couldn’t slam brake and area was slope so car was driving and I didn’t realize if i just moved key all the way ON or not so I felt car is driving but something wrong with brake since I got them repaired previous day so had this presumption while trying to fix the issue and I tried one more time by moving gear from parking to drive then one time I moved gear from drive to parking directly in hurry rather pulling the handbrake this time while it was engine on but not complete (if it was the case) only mode so then I restarted with key again by moving it all the way this time to make sure that i started it right way and it was working fine and car started having brake work but I felt something wrong cause it become noisy and my brake are vibrating when I am pressing them to brake it’s like not agitating but like slightly hmmmm feel in car body and brakes which wasn’t there before the mess when it started and doesn’t feel smooth quite ride. I somehow finished my 80 miles ride cause car was feeling noisy bit vibrating but was driving. So I took to mechanic next day morning and said if brakes are ok then he said I need wheel balance so I went for wheel balance but I am still feeling 20% of vibrations and noise. I sometimes hear some metal clicking sound underneath. It’s like as if i am cracking my bones same way as if cars parts got stuck and when moving get piping sound. So if did I mess up transmission or struts and coil or something which is causing this. Right now vibrations are not that bad but they are still not completely quite which was in beginning before all that parking incident. So if I go to mechanic they randomly suggesting different things and not sure what could be issues. Someone suggested struts replacement and someone said could be transmission issues and each things costs more than 500-1500 range. So what would be the best way to diagnose and fix this issue if anyone had such experience. If I have to replace struts and coil which brand is best and should i buy online and get them to mechanic as the cost of mechanic suggested one is double than anything is being sold online. I hope it may make ride quite and silent plus less noisy if i buy myself better quality with same inflated price of mechanic and just give it to him. Do I need to check my brakes again? Please suggest. It’s 2011 Corolla base model.
Note: I am mostly very mindful and careful when I drive cars and somehow don’t know whether it was bad day or what but I completely lost in presumptions and instead of single time turning key off and then On o kept on using parking gear and hand brake to get it right and if that might have messed transmission and struts or some other parts of the car.
hello I have a mercedes 180c w202 if I accelerate a lot, it will bump a bit when driving, it is no longer gears well, it is the hardy disck thanks greetings fernando Sout spain
Changed 03 drive shaft because it was making a clunking sound AMD not going into reverse or neutral but was driving forward with no problem. Since ive changed the drive shaft now ots going into reverse and neutral but wont go into drive. When put in drive its making a sound as if the drive shaft and transmission aren't syncing. Please help
When you pull them two apart what shows you how to put it back in to place
I have a 2004 toyota tundra v8 4x4 and I replace the shaft but it still vibration when hard it can't drive over 20 mph