This Is What Happens If You NEVER CHANGE YOUR DIFFERENTIAL OIL!!
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- Опубликовано: 23 мар 2019
- This Is What Happens If You NEVER CHANGE YOUR DIFFERENTIAL OIL!!
In this video I show not only how I changed my differential oil but I also show the inner diff cover magnet after 78000 miles and 24 years. Featured in this video is my 1995 GMC Suburban K1500 (GMT400) with just 78,000 original miles on it. The rear axle differential is the GM 10 bolt 8.5" version and has never had a differential fluid change. For the diff cover gasket I used a Felpro unit linked below.
FEL-PRO RDS55028-1: amzn.to/2CB8asS
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
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gotta paint the cover to let others know you take care of your rear end.
Or put a finned aluminum cover on to dissipate all that heat your daily beater puts out on grocery runs to a store 5 miles away.
Maybe he skipped that and had mamma paint his rear end?
My truck is oil sprayed and coated in thick grease I make up and apply with a brush everywhere, old motor oil in a gallon can mixed with 5 or 6 canisters of bearing grease mixed up and it lasts for years, my frame and under body are water resistant, hell of a lot better than ziebart
@@onceuponatimeintoronto891 anything is better then ziebart all ziebart does is hide the rust, instead of preventing it
@@onceuponatimeintoronto891 how good does used motor oil work to prevent rust? And can i apply it over existing rust? I’ve been wanting to preserve what’s left of my undercarriage but I can’t afford the good stuff that’s specifically made for that
The rear differential is often neglected when it comes to regular maintenance. Great video, as always, Jimmy!
TreeFriar iis
That's because if they consider if a normal "lifetime" fill they don't give you an obvious drain for it. On my Lincolns it's only in tiny print that they tell you to replace the fluid if you're towing or the limo package but it's easy enough, especially if you suck the fluid out and leave the cover and gasket alone.
@@dyoel182, the obvious drain is the rear differential cover. For someone who doesn't do their own maintenance, it may seem like a daunting and messy task. Also, most people don't think about it because it's underneath the vehicle. Jimmy puts that misconception to rest with this video.
There isn't one fluid system in your vehicle that is life time. An honest mechanic will tell that before it fails on you, just saying
@@blainemcdonald6972, lifetime fluid a.k.a snake oil!
I don't do any sort of mechanical work but I thoroughly enjoyed your video. It was edited extremely well (short and sweet) Your narration was very concise, and matched perfectly with the video segments. And...... NO STUPID MUSIC!!! Thumbs up.
It's probably been pointed out already, but whenever you drain a differential or manual transmission it is always good practice to use a brush and some sort of solvent around the fill hole in order to eliminate any foreign from that area. This makes the fill plug area so much cleaner.
Great video though, like you say most folks simply don't bother, this is a good lesson to those of us that intend to keep their vehicles for more than 3 or 4 years.
You have the perfect infomercial voice. Can you say, "but wait, there's more!"
Yeah my thoughts exactly. Also the G.M. gov. lock limited slip design is trash.
indeed , a sexy RUclipsr voice 😍
or when are the Cloverfield monsters gonna make a cameo
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
LMAOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! "But wait! There's MORE!" hahahahahahaha
You're wrong, I do go outside and say "I'm going to change my differential oil today."
😂
Hear hear!
i literally just said this today, so i've been watching some videos on it and ended up here
Liar.
I just whisper it...shhh...
I never even thought about differential oil needing to be changed. I'm going to get a new gasket along with required amount and grade of differential oil and this will be my weekend project. Thanks 1ROAD for taking the mystery out of this job! Great job!
100 bucks says you never did it
Some additional tips. 1. Using a die grinder with a surface prep disk will make cleaning the gasket surfaces a lot easier. 2. Putting thread locker on uncleaned oily bolts will serve no purpose. Clean the bolts and holes and let them dry first. Use that brake cleaner with a spray straw to clean the bolt holes then dry them with compressed air. 3. Put a little Teflon tape or pipe dope on the fill plug or you'll always have a slight seep from the fill plug.
Good info. May I add that when using that brake cleen protect eyes
You're gonna run a sander over the diff housing metal and flick grit into the gears?
Clean around the fill plug and remove the fill plug before unbolting the differential plate so that if anything falls in it gets flushed out. People often do this afterwards and when stuff falls in they either leave it or have to unbolt a second time to flush it out.
You never use a sander on gasket surface, use 1300 -1000 grit sand paper and try use a break cleaner while you clean , don’t give advice you dump …learn before giving advices
@@cruiser6260I was laughing 😂 too , the problem some of these jerks don’t know nothing and give advices
Great video. A couple of points 1) The use of a cardboard template to hold the bolts in the same relative location is a good one. On some older differentials the rear axle vent is through a hole drilled in one of the bolts, That bolt should be on top. Eyeball the bolts to see if there is a hole drilled in one.
2) On newer axles there is normally an axle vent mounted on top of the axle. Clean it periodically. A blocked vent will cause rear diff oil to leak out through the axle seals.
1) i did not know that, 2) a facebook group told me this problem, so glad they did, I was ready to change my pinion seal... i attribute it to rustproofing... that being said, now that I know, I clean it out every now and then, its a 10 or 12mm deep socket, very simple. I was going to replace, but I got it working pretty well.
3) nobody mentioned it, but loosen your fill before you start...
If the bolts are all same length it doesn't matter if they don't go back in the same hole
@@cruiser6260 I think you misunderstood what I was saying. On some older differentials the bolt position does matter. Some have small drilled holes in them and need to go topside, for proper venting. In all other respects the bolts look alike. The key word is "if".
Where do people come up with this stuff?
I'm 63 and have done ALOT of mechanic work in my lifetime.
The FASTEST AND EASIEST way I have found to clean metal surfaces is a wire wheel.
Bench mount, drill mount, angle grinder, doesn't matter, just don't bear down super hard, let wire wheel do the work.
I use this method on almost any metal surface ( including aluminum ) and have never had any problems. Heads, engine blocks, name it.
Again, let the wheel do the work, don't use alot of pressure.
The gasket material is much softer than the metal, with reasonable care you will not cause any damage
There are also wire wheels with brass wire, it may be a little bit ''softer'' to materials like aluminum, the method however will also work in the same way
Do not use a wire wheel to remove a base gasket on an aluminum cylinder Harley-Davidson.
Two mechanics and a machinist told me I was an idiot. And I felt like one.
Precision alu. surfaces are veery easy to damage.
@@busterland1805 yeah, don't use a steel wire wheel on aluminum. You can use a brass brush or brass wire wheel and be just fine though.
I appreciate what you do on ur channel, and even keeping the older videos accessible, just got myself a suburban and looking forward to keeping it in great condition as possible ✊🏽👍🏽👌🏽
Now this guy know how to make videos you actually wanna watch straight to the point keep up the good work brotha
This was extremely helpful. Way to go Jimmy on your first time changing the diff oil as I never knew this had to be changed. Thanks homeboy.
Hopefully everyone realizes you also have to clean the brake cleaner and any residual gunk out of the differential before putting the cover back on. He kinda skipped that part.
What's best to use for that ? Shop towel ..old rag?
Yep
Or, just let it evaporate for a clean result.
Thank you!!
@@snowcrest7863 It should not be allowed to just evap, the bottom of the housing needs to be wiped from all the stuff that if solvates down there.
@7:00 also also - when tightening the cover, do it in a cross pattern. That will make sure the gasket seats correctly.
The first diff oil change i did on my 02 defender was an eye opener. It was like grease it was so used and old. Like i could actually hold it in my hand...
Amazingly no visible damage done.
well done!! one thing I use is an air nozzle to super clean the magnet after most of the junk if off the magnet.
the one thing you can do to help make this faster for future is to replace the cover with a drain plug cover!!
and use a magnet on the drain plug!!
that way you do not have to remove the cover every time you change the diff fluid!!
this is important to change this often if you pull an rv!!
this is the rear wheel bearing lube as well as the diff assy!!
lol
I get over 400k out of my old cars and trucks!!
but I service them well!!
80k miles... that is a new truck!! lol!!
As a mechanic, Ive cussed guys like this in my head many times, while trying to remove bolts that they have drenched in loctite, that did not need loctite at all. Like these rear end cover bolts. They aren't going anywhere genius!
As a diesel mechanic i agree.
Only use it where the repair manual say to use it.
Its only a blue locktight its only very low grade its no problem at all and will help as an antiseize rather than a hindrance. And yes I am a diesel fitter trained by Caterpillar and I would use locktight there as well in fact I use it almost every bolt. Its not Bearin retaining fluid just remember to use the correct grade for the correct application
Black Sheep well said
@@mauri7306 yeah I’m a machinist and the blue is nothing. I use it on 4/40 screws with no issues
I could never get that Loctite to work!
Thank you for your videos. I changed the diff fluids on 2 of my vehicles with no issues. I also did the cardboard mapping.
Better to not spray down the inside of the diff with brake clean. The new oil will actually do that for you as you drive. Brake clean washes out the oil from the bearings and seals, possibly running into the axle tubes. That is detrimental to the new oil install.
“Every day is a chance to turn it all around.” Powerful message even though this is a vid about changing differential fluid. I appreciate your content 1Road.
Sometimes it's a good idea to check the vent diff vent tube to make sure it's not clogged.
"Sometimes" needs to be changed to "Always"
Always a must
Yes that's correct it's an excellent idea to make sure that the vent is not clogged otherwise the differential fluid will leak out of the seals every time the vehicle warms up due to backed up pressure.
Budget Panther Fan where would that be...? Read nothing on that for my genuine chevy service manual rwd astro passager van.
@@isaacb4955 it looks like a little nipple on top of the axle tube, about in the middle. and it might have a hose coming up if it's an off-road vehicle.
Although I am not able to do my own mechanical work, I found your explanations and demonstration most helpful in understanding why this should be done and exactly what is involved when I take my truck into the shop to have this done. Excellent video!
I just changed the rear diff fluid in both my 99 Sierra 2500 4x4, and my sons 95 K1500 4x4. Each of them are over 300,000km (both bought with over 300K). Both were a lot dirtier than yours, but the diffs are both still on good shape. Changing it every 100,000km is plenty enough.
It's wierd to think that that oil was pumped into that differential before I was even born and was still at work throughout all my life and that vehicle still runs.
Haha me to ay
It's a chevy
It's oil. If you really think about it, it just needs to lubricate. After all these years it can still do that by means of being oil. It probably won't be at 100% efficiency but it'll still work. I don't see why not.
Weird to think that's how you were born, a lot of pumping.
Yeah, the only reason to change that stinking mess is if you have time on your hands....the stuff is bulletproof thick goo for a good reason.
If it was critical to have it changed, there would be a drain plug.
Just a friendly tip to everyone out there, if you drive your vehicle through water or deep mud, you will want to change your diff fluid more frequently. For me and most of my Jeep buddies, it's part of regular maintenance, almost like changing the oil
And changing the neutral safety switch that sucks in water too.
Great instructional video, very clear, enjoyable, and down to the point. Your perspective made me aware of a section of our vehicles that I had neglected to service forever. For being a beginner, you sure know your way around.
Neglected to service ?? No way is that possible, you just did it not long ago! Right?! That's right
A good point that everyone should be aware of. In the case of Ford or GM limited slip, you must add the correct friction modifier as he mentions. There should be a metal tag on the diff that identifies this and the fluid from the manufacturer should be used. Something that wasn't mentioned is make sure the differential is level when filling it, as in not on the jack stands. This will ensure that the fluid comes out of the fill hole at the proper level, not elevated and overfilled.
Good point, if you don't have a hoist, find a child to crawl under that level vehicle and add oil, can't have 2ml extra in there
Well, if he had the front tires on ramps and the rear frame on stands and it WAS level, then it will be ok...
@@cruiser6260 Funny!
Dark lube doesn't mean it's cooked. Some gear lube was dark and stinky before it went into the diff because it contains lithium disulfide and friction modifiers in the additives. Also, you forgot to mention cleaning the gasket surface in the diff body. That's just as important as the cover.
You're right, forgot to film that part. I'm only human, Harry.
Yeah the dark color don't mean much, quantity and viscosity didn't look bad either.
@@PeterCieplyI thought the color looked good.
@@1RoadGarage how did you enjoy the smell of the gear oil? I have a manual transmission and on most motorcycles same type of gear oils first time smells you don't forget it so easy😖
No bullshit, but It’s really not that dark. -ford tech
Harbor freight sells a fluid pump that works amazing for refilling the diff fluid and is super cheap. Takes the pain of holding and spilling the fluid away. Also you can easily measure out the fluid if using a gallon container like I did. Great video
Ya all the crap is on the bottom so the pump won’t get all the metal out better off taking it off and getting it all out
@@jimcatanzaro7808 he said for refilling champ
Hi Jimi , you did a good job with excellent explanation thanks , will help lots of people with old rear and 4 wheel drive vehicles.
Wow!! I've never had my diff oil changed. It has 315K miles on it. Will get it done this week. Thanks for the video.
78,000 on a 96' is pretty good. My 08 Silverado has around 150,000. Thanks for the reminder, I'll be adding this to my "to do list" along with the transmission filter and seal.
I have a 91' Ford Econoline with 40K on the odometer
Awesome job Jimmy. Very clear, concise, and complete!
I have a 2nd Gen Nissan xterra and live in the northern snow belt where salt is prevalent. I have had oil pans, diff covers and transmission lines rust thru. When I replaced the diff cover on the X terra, cleaned out the fluid and replaced it, I also coated the exterior of the diff cover with flex seal as a barrier from future rust thru. It was amazing how thin the metal of the diff cover was on the original and replacement. Did the same treatment on the oil pan replacement.
Great advice and tips. No stupid background music. Clear steps, I’ll have to check your other vids.
If you've got 4 wheel drive, your transfer case needs love too. Dont forget
And your front differential oil...
AND the front diff oil.
AND the front diff oil.
Um, just to be clear, Are you saying that the transfer case uses a different oil from the trans(manual or Auto)?
And the front diff oil
Now this is what I call an excellent video. The lighting was good and all related parts and actions were clearly visible. And Jimmy was very easy to understand with great audio...thanks for leaving out the dumb background music many posters like to use.
Wow! You made me feel like running to my car and changing the fluid. Awesome video, thanks so much!!
Bought my Jeep and I concentrated on getting all the fluids changed in the first 30 days. Focusing first on the most overlooked, the front and rear differentials and Transfer Case fluids.
Gotta love the smell of diff fluid in the morning lol
It smells like a victory.
I know that smell. Lol
Fish Market
@@ptotheog8445 Yeah!😎
I just changed my diff oil for the first time this morning and yeah that stuff stinks man
The guy talks to us like my dad does when he's on the phone. It's like he's yelling across a field to you.
ya sounds like he recorded it with the audio recording level too high. makes it hard to listen to him.
Hey, my mother DID yell across about 8 acres to us!
Try Scotty Kilmer---------------he is always yelling.
@@RobHTech No he's just yelling. He's also overacting like he's a soap opera actress -- you know -- a bobblehead. It comes from Attention Deficit Disorder. He feels a deficit of attention from everyone around him and therefore the need to yell.
My '06 Ram(217,000 miles) is getting this done soon. I'm sure it's never been done. Thanks for all the tips!
Great video. Just the facts in a well delivered message.I’m gonna tackle mine ...next week when she warms up 👍
Thank you - now 1- step further I would have done was to go ahead and clean- up all the bolts too .👍🏻
Great vid I'am OCD when it comes to changing the oils on all of my new cars from new.
Glad you mentioned the additive. Very important with some models.
What I like about this guy's video is he gets to the point with no hoopla & and speaks clearly :)
Hell yeah! Me too!
My Dad had an auto repair shop from 1948 to 1986. I remember once watching him rebuilding a carburetor. After he had separated the top from the body and was cleaning the surfaces, he said "you see where I took off this gasket and scrapped it clean"? "Some guys would look at that and say good enough, and put it back together". But he continued a few minutes and got the surfaces perfectly clean. Then said "That could mean the difference between this carburetor lasting 6 months or 30 years". That one lesson when I was a little kid stuck with me my whole life, and so I was never a "that's good enough" guy in everything I did. A valuable lesson from a father passed on to his son.
Excellent video, great quality, advice and instruction. Makes a nasty, undesirable chore a lot less intimidating for DIYers.
dude, your videos are awesome and give me confidence to work on my suburban. i really appreciate your work
Best vid I've seen in a while. Few of us ever think to do this. Love my motorhead buds. Keep it running clean.
"Old vehicles with 100 thousand miles OR MORE..." lol. 341,000 on my 2000 Tahoe.
435,000 on my '69 C 10!
1,000,000 on my Toyota pickup
@@ddp7028 I'll believe 1,000,000 when I see it hahaha
lol who tf change their rear diff fluid anyways😂😂
@@bugoykikay8074 when you find a leak or your car is old as dirt
This man looks like a "Bad Santa" - Billy Bob Thornton! One of my favorite movies, btw.
And thanks for the good video (but my ears are tired, haha), I do the same thing 2 months ago with my 8.5 GM rear end, when I put a locker in it, but I added a little NPT 1/8 drain plug to case, to refill axle without gasket changing.
Thank you for the detailed video. Keep posting these videos.
I have 138k Miles on my 2011 Nissan Pathfinder and now that you mention it I took it to Valvoline to get it the read diff fluid changed out. Thankfully everything still runs!
Excellent video Sir. Thank you. You made it look so easy while providing valuable info along the way...a real gem video.
Thanks brotha'! Good job, great video & keep em' coming.. time to go change my diff fluid..
Excellent presentation sir. Very helpful. Thank you for sharing the knowledge.
Good man!
Repainting my 94 f150. Doing good has no end. I appreciate you
Thanks for the video. Siiigh. Yet another job I gotta do if I want to keep my old 96 on the road.
Replaced an entire rear axle on my 2008 Xterra a few years back. A few months after purchasing it, the differential literally shredded the pinion gear to bits all at once, while driving down the road with just myself in the vehicle. I was totally blown away that destruction like that was even possible on a vehicle used as lightly as mine. Previous owner must have given it hell while towing... but still... I couldn't believe it was even possible. I've never been so distraught as when I saw all those pieces of pinion gear literally puking out of the drain hole when I first drained it!
Did it cause an accident?
I have a 1973 Chevy Malibu with over a millions miles on it. My Aunt has maintained it and kept it in good condition over the years when she bought it brand new. But she never bothered to check the differential and it still working very well.
Hw many mile
Thank you for a well done video, with plenty of tips, precautions, best practices. I will subscribe!
You are great
Making and producing so useful videos
Thank you so much 👌👌
So clean work
Great idea never thought about checking the fill plug first before you remove all the fluid and you're unable to refill the differential good job
I learned that the hard way long ago. I was sweating bullets when I couldn't get the fill plug out due to the head being stripped. Finally did get it out.
@@camarokurt Worst case you buy a nice aftermarket cover with a fill plug or drill a hole on the OEM cover and have a bung welded so you can screw a bolt with a copper washer - do one for the bottom to drain easier next time - better than OEM !
@@miltoshatzi4528 Generally you can fill through one of the bolt holes.
Great job, very professionally explained....thank you very much !
"We did it together!"
Glad i could help..
Nice swap out, and explanation for why to do it and how. Good work.
I noticed a leak in my Comanche's rear diff after 260,000 miles. Went by parts store to see how much a gasket and oil would cost. Did not have enough and thought I'd just baby it two days till I got paid... Yep, diff seized on the highway on the way to work on payday the day I was going to pick up the parts. It ended up costing me $2500 vs $25 to fix, it took 2 months to find a replacement axle. This event forced me to set up an emergency fund and vow to never be that short on money again.
If it makes you feel better, with that bad of a leak the damage was probably done before you went to the auto parts store.
Dont be sorry Sounds to me your diff was actually worn out anyway before the leak.
Honestly man at 260,000 miles I think I would've called it quits and sold the truck. There's no use in keeping that thing alive. That's just my opinion though it's possible it can still go longer
Dumped my Comanche in 97 because of that nasty high dollar Dana rear end (2kish back then, if memory serves) needing to be replaced. Never liked anything about any Jeep I have owned or used (except the way they looked).
You got burnt
Informative. Short, Sharp and Sweet 👍
I changed mine on my 2003 F250 7.3L diesel with 125k original miles on it. It was cleaner then I thought it would be. Its been a tow monster most of its life, only used for towing a huge RV.
This reminds me of chrisfix
"WOO A PROBLEM!"
"WOO DIRTY OIL"
"WOO LOCTITE!"
😅😅😅
but he didn't spray it down with soapy wudder?
OUT WITH THE OLD
AND
IN WITH THE NEW
Soapy wodder
I like the loctite on the oily bolts.
Great video and presentation. I will be doing this soon. We just got through flushing the transmissions on 3 of our cars thanks to another video you did a while back. I will be doing this on the truck I just picked up. On a platform where the biggest jackasses get the most views and make the most money you provide something of real value. Its rare and very much appreciated thank you. Avery Neilson
My suv was making grinding noises and hard thunks when you change the transmission fluid change both diff fluids aswell. I learned my lesson.
great video; just bought a new super duty and plan on doing things like this myself when its due or maybe before !
And that was pretty cool I usually see diff that are wet probably never changed the oil thank you for the video
Thank you, Jimmy! Your video helped me show my buddies that its easy and necessary to change the differential fluid!
I'm glad I found your vids,I have a 97 gmc truck,that I would like to do some maintenance on.
I bought a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo w/82,000 miles on it...first thing I did was change rear end oil and transmission oil (manual)...also repacked grease on front wheel bearings and lubed suspension. Inspected brakes. Replaced shocks.
Vehicle cost $2,000 - spent $600 on parts....drives and looks like new!
Very happy! I'll never buy a new car again! 😁👍
Appreciate your honesty about the Amazon thing and you getting comissions.😉 Makes it even more fun to watch.
Talking cat virus
I always use gasket sealant on diffs great video
All good tips to know, you were very clear and precise ,thanks for sharing 👍👍
Hope you're coming out with more soon you have that there's always something to learn attitude and I grew up with that
I never thought that changing your own Pumpkin fluid could be so much fun!
Great video mate!
🙅🏼♂️
I would jack up the rear wheels and run them for a bit to let all the old dirty oil out after spraying with brake cleaner or diesel.
I get some strong chrisfix vibes off this video.
Yeah hes copying him 😂😂
Imposter
@Paul Mallory how long does it last though? my car is 25 years old and i do not know if it has been changed though. Althought the car only has 69k km on the odo.
Chrisfix is more professional than him
@@tarunavtar dont watch
This is a good video to point out the important part of a vehicle that is often neglected. I wanted him to test drive it after the work to note the performance. I have an '02 Dodge Caravan - 122,000 on the odometer and l have no records if it was ever done.
We have a 1988 suburban, we bought when our 4 kids were young well our youngest was 2 weeks old, that was 28 years ago, now she’s driving it. Love the older suburbans.
Thank you for taking your time to do this video. I really appreciate it. You did a great job explaining things!
make sure that parts cleaner solvent is all dry before putting on cover it could break don new oil
I wouldn't spray it in the diff, like never. On the inside cover and then rub it dry, ok, but not in the diff. Or i would do a 2nd change after 50-100miles.
The bottom of the diff should be wipe thoroughly after spraying with the brake cleaner. There is plenty of stuff that can settle in there and with the rear raised, it won't drain out.
This fella sounds like an infomercial host, but his content is legit. Guess I'd better do the wife's '04 Xterra open diff this weekend, 197,000 miles on the original oil. Great info, thanks! 👍
She’s usually leaking out a little bit when she is full.
The haters should make a video. I think you did a fantastic job! Sure a little common sense would dictate whether you wiped out the brake cleaner from the bottom of the diff. housing. Taking off the magnet is also something you can do or not. Just bottom line is everyone does things a little bit different. You did a great service by showing a lot of people that have never done that before how to. Thank you buddy!
Dude that was awesome you did a tremendous job you we're doing that I would do plus a couple of good ideas I enjoyed the video God bless you
Going to do this in the future, recently did my oil change
I have a 95 Tahoe with 77k miles on it. I did change the differential fluid at 30k mainly because it was my tow vehicle. I guess it’s about that time to do it again. Thanks for the reminder.
Good looking Jimmy. I needed this video. I think this is something I should do for my 96 Yukon. I'm ordering a new rear drive shaft.
man, you explain so easy, thanks a lot !
I've been preaching this for a 100 years,, and no one ever does.
All the micro gear shavings end up in all the bearings getting mashed over and over for a million times.
Plus the micro shavings are ten times harder steel the the balls in bearings,, making them look like golf balls,, then sooner or later,, a huge noise won't end. And or huge crash of pinion and ring gear. The alignment is very critical to never make noise, and run smooth.
Every 10,000 miles or every other oil change,, the rear end will live a long time getting this crud removed.
Yes,, add a high power magnet drain plug,, or mount one on the case.
Also, the axle tube out to each wheel let's oil travel out to axle bearings every time a turn is made and the warm oil gives them a bath as well.
You just don't want gear shavings in the mix.
Cheers..
Great comment, helpful info.
Great advice. Snapshot of this comment is gonna help with my truck. Appreciated.
Nice video. Straight to the point with excellent instructions.
Great video.
Thanks for sharing .
New subscriber from Philadelphia PA