What’s That Noise in My Differential?
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- This video chronicles what I went through to diagnose a whining noise coming from the 10 bolt (8.5” 30 spline) differential of my 1990 C1500 truck (GMT400/OBS). The noise has been there ever since I installed a new carrier and gears last year.
I cover checking backlash, measuring pinion depth, bearing inspection, gear tooth patterns, and fluid inspection.
I hope you find this information useful!
#ETCGVideo #ETCGDadsTruck
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Thanks for watching!
Links
Summit Racing: www.summitraci...
More info on noise diagnosis: www.ericthecar...
Diagnosing Ring and Pinion Issues: www.onallcylin...
Tools
Pinion Depth Measuring Tool: www.raceplumbi...
Dial Indicator Set (Checking Backlash): www.jbtoolsale...
Bleepin Jeep Pinion Tool: store.bleepinj...
Astro Pneumatic Bushing/Seal Driver Kit: www.jbtoolsale...
Milwaukee 1/2” (the big one): milwaukeetool....
1/2” Breaker Bar: www.jbtoolsale...
Torque Wrench: www.rakuten.com...
Part Links
My Differential: www.summitraci...
My 3:73 Gear Set (Original): www.summitraci...
New Gear Set (Richmond): www.summitraci...
My Differential Cover: www.summitraci...
Ratech Ring and Pinion Installation Kit: www.summitraci...
Pinion Bearing Set: www.randysworl...
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®.
There's always a certain 'family' feel to ETCG's videos. The familiarity of his style makes us feel as though we're coming home to an old friend - a rare gift indeed. That's all before you get into the tuition, which is still - by a clear country mile - the best on RUclips. Long live ETCG!
Thank you!
It feels like we’re hanging out at his shop
@@ericthecarguy where are you finding that pinion bearing preload should be 20-25 in lbs. All I’m finding is that it should be 14-17lbs. I’m chasing the same problem you had in my 05 Silverado. I think that I’m going to contact my gear distributor and see what they say.
@@tonyburts7998 this sound is the same thing my 09 Silverado is making. Makes me wonder if the shop I’m waiting for an appointment to take it too, is going to figure out the problem. Odd things always happens to me 😔, just hope it doesn’t cost me a fortune. I’m a disabled mom 58 yrs old, but was married to a mechanic for many years. So I always look for help, he’s now passed away. So I have no help, why I’m here
@@tonyburts7998 I read in my manual for my Ford that the target preload should change depending on if you're trying to re-use bearings and crush sleeves. lower values for re-use.
Eric, I've been watching you for over a decade now. I am absolutely blown away with patient you are. You have a gift my friend. Wow! We can all learn from you in so many ways other than just auto mechanics.
Meh, it's all in the editing. Thanks for watching!
Great to know you figured out the problem. That's one less thing on your mind to worry about and that's one more things that we learn! Thanks for your effort.
Great video Eric, though no matter what gear lube you use, even with perfect gear tooth pattern, pinion bearing preload, carrier bearing preload and gear backlash there will always be a slight gear wine on deceleration. It’s normal......
Now that your differential is broken in, readjust your backlash to within the Factory or Gear Manufacturers 0.005” - 0.009” spec and try getting it within the preferred spec which is likely 0.006” - 0.008”.
Personally, anything gear backlash between the tight 0.005” and midway point of 0.007” on a GM 10 bolt is good and you’ll still have slight gear wine on deceleration!!!
Run it for 500 miles then change your gear lube to remove any wear deposits and go from there with fresh quality 80W-90 or 85W-140 (viscosity is dependent on the temperatures you drive in) synthetic gear lube with LSD additive (4oz is common) if you have a Limited-Slip Differential.
I think Eric has just proven that you never mismatch new bearings with old bearing races is not a good idea. Plus, if your gear teeth have any chips, it may cause noise even if everything setup correctly. Also all differentials have a lube oil change interval like other oil change intervals your vehicle needs as maintenance.
I agree. He should run his truck for a few hundred miles, drain the old oil, and readjust tolerances. It's sad that he will have to drain the synthetic oil. However, he'll be happier in the long run. Sorry, Eric. Easy one for you.
@@jeffkelley3419 You really think it was necessary like he did, when he was trying to figure out what was wrong, to dump the new oil when it was brand new and in a broken in assembly and all he did was test drive it?
Both of the gears had chips in them. Spinning at thousands of rpm, out of balance parts are likely to "sing". Thats what ive been taught.
If your carrier dropped out it probably was not preloaded properly resulting in too much pinion backlash under load which would cause noisy gears. Those two big holes on each side of housing are for a carrier spread tool to remove carrier assembly. You spread the housing with your dial indicator very carefully to not over spread. This is what preloades this style of diff. Use a long bar after carrier is installed to pry on carrier with dial gauge set to get zero end play and then add proper amount of side shims to get carrier side bearings preloaded.
My Dana 60 calls for 250 on the pinion nut. I had the same experience 10 years ago with Richmond gears, on a semi-floating Dana 60. Seeing those pinion bearings cut leaves me with the impression that the torque specs were off, and it break in the ring and pinion to a whine/houl. By the time you replaced the bearings again, it already existed. Replacing the bearings was necessary, but double check that torque spec. And my videos aren't monetized, so when I say Chinese mil spec is junk, that's exactly what I mean. Japan, Germany, or old stock U.S.A. is all we can hope for, for good mil spec bearing race kits. Good video, guy!
I hope this video was helpful? God bless you Eric! You really solve much doubt about differential...
Eric: I am closing this chapter for now.
Also Eric: *with disassembled differential* this is where I am now.😂
Take a break, get some food, get some rest, and start fresh tomorrow. Good luck!
@@ericthecarguy How about go around the shop and pick- up the tools and parts ?
I had the same issue after going from 3.08 to 3.73 with the same diff but in a Tahoe. It was ultimately better after replacing all the bearings a couple times and setting it all to spec but never solved. I traded it off...
Sorry to hear it. I hope you have a better truck, now.
@Nick J What was I suppose to do with it?... Keep it forever? NO. I traded it to a GM dealer who has the capability to correctly solve the issue.
I use the Yukon "super carrier shim kit" and "crush sleeve eliminator" whenever I can on gear installs. You can dial that backlash in where you want. (yes I prefer the tight end of the spec) And no more finger crossing while setting pinion preload.
the fix was right in front of you the entire time.. more volume on that radio!!
Lol
@@louiswhetsell1144 thanks for your input.....
until one day... and with luck the wrong day...
Bro wth 🤣
🤘
"Differential fluid is one of my favorite smells" until you said "Not" I was just stunned. I mean putrid rotting skunk sprayed onions would probably be more pleasant than that stuff. Ick.
Some GM AcDelco fluid smells like Grapes... Yes really, its scented. You can still pick up a little whiff of the normal gear oil smell under the grape smell though.
Need that smell to warn you the Pinon seal leaks and throws differential oil on the muffler!
I will never disassemble or work on a differential. Having said that, I couldn’t wait to watch you do it and I couldn’t stop until I saw it all the way through to the end! I like what one of the other commentators said about you having a familiar family friend charm! That’s a very apt description of your style.
Thank you!
Very informative as always! I've never been confident setting up rear and this is why haha
Eric theres a trick i used on a noisy rear diff. Couple small tubes of graphite powder. It helped. The reason is it fills in any slight imperfections.
"Okay Eric we'll send you a new set. Thanks, bye!...Hey Frank! You still got that pinion set that you dropped off the truck? I got someone who'll take it!"
Hil-larious!
Funny, I had a similar thought but kept it to myself.
ROFLMAO!!!
Had the same noise in me colorado. Though after some digging, seeing this video and remembering repairs I've done to the pinion seal, I have come to the conclusion of water damage to either the gears or pinion bearings as water had been getting into my diff via the diff breather and blowing out the seal.
I hope it's just the bearing anyway.
I learned more in the video than I have in weeks researching shit I dont understand because of all the bullshit everyone else talks about to sound smart.
Cheers mate
Did replacing the bearings and seals solve the problem? I just did all my bearings and seals and I still have this noise the wear pattern is fine and I’m not sure if it’s gears ( backlash and depth being wrong ) or if it’s just noisy from factory
@@ThatKZ900LTD it did. My pinion bearings was rooted. Haven't had am issue since now.
wow you would go nuts with my diff. yours is quit compared to mine
I just did my first set of ring and pinion gears in my 84 GMC Sierra classic 1500. It had 2.73 gears in it originally so that's what I put back in it. I bought a set from O'Reilly Auto Parts made by Motive Gear and installed new pinion bearings and races... I checked everything several times and all my specs were good... took it for a test drive and heard that exact same noise that's in your video. Immediately came home, put it back on jack stands and check everything again... put new fluid back in it and I still have the same noise... I really hope my noise is caused by the same thing.
I have the same noise in the rear of a Dodge truck. I had a mechanic disassemble and inspect it because I had plans for a motor swap. The noise was slightly different after it was reassembled with synthetic oil. It has about 6000 miles and still has not changed. The motor swap was completed about 4500 miles ago. It had a 4.7 and now sports a 6.4 Hemi. Sounds like I need a different gear set as well from your video. I had suspected the pinion bearings same as you. Anyway, well done sir.
I had a rear end that sounded like you were banging on the frame with a hammer every rotation it made. I didn't take it apart to see what was wrong I just replaced it with a junkyard one.
Hey man, great video! I've been puzzled issues with grinding, thumping, and clacking noise on my Jeep Wrangler JL for a year now. I highly suspect noise is caused by the diff, but the dealership is telling me its normal. These noises are driving me nuts, and only happens occasionally (mostly when its colder or wet). The vehicle would thump/clunk coming to a stop when it happens and if I put the vehicle in reverse, a clacking sound happens occasionally too (sounds like something is binding). I've been hearing a whirring noise when going around 45 mph and this noise can be manipulated by feathering the gas pedal. Dealer told me that some Danas are just louder than others. My tires were also cupping, which dealer blamed it on alignment. Lastly, there was oil residue on my diff and the dealer said it was the drain plug, which I find it hard to believe because oil residue can be seen all the way to the driveshaft area. I don't feel any vibrations or turning issues. So could this just be normal diff slack or is my vehicle's diff starting to go bad? Thank for your time
20:36 every lip on "inside" portion of those teeth is raised, as if someone had smashed it with a hammer (absurd comparison). Note how the cut marks travel up, so that wasn't a factory thing, this was something that was raised in use...could it be ...that there's an angle of contact issue here, like a defective case or defective ring gear seat? Because that would cause excessive noise. These gears are extremely finicky and demand very precise angles of contact both in the ring's plane and the pinion gear's.
The way i see that gear, it's almost as if the contact was done only on the inside (towards the bearing), with rotation upsetting metal, raising those lips on each of the teeth. This would also explain the chips. You're essentially asking an elephant to walk on ballet shoes.
You can clearly see the difference between the new and old gear.
The old gear was like that out of the box, see the previous videos linked in the description. I wish I had smoothed out those chips before installation as that might have solved the problem from the get go. As for measurements, as you can see in the video I was pretty much bang on since the beginning with the exception of backlash. Note that the backlash was the same on both gear sets though. Still, I learned a great deal during this struggle and now I have a new tool that I can use on the next set of gears.
So much of what I do is sharing my experiences with this stuff so that viewers know what to look for when they go to do this work. In a way, my experience is their experience. Some people see that as me not knowing what I'm doing, but in truth, I show my failings so that others don't have to suffer the same fate.
Thanks for your comment.
@@ericthecarguy I still believe the new set was fabricated better. The teeth weren't so sharp. The old one looked like it was designed for a jet turbine, but that metal is probably titanium or something similar. I'm more comfortable with the new set. And, hey, it's not my truck. : \
@@jeffkelley3419 Night and Day difference in the manufacturing quality of those 2 sets.
I have a Ram 1500 and it has this same noise. It just started noticing it. I'm glad I came across this video.
Eric, you need a lower range torque dial gauge and have to measure carrier bearing preload either by case spread or cumulative rotational torque of the pinion.
I actually noticed in your first video series that you installed the carrier bearings flush with the stub, instead of tight against the shoulder. As when you pushed them on, you didn't use anything to push the bearings past flush. I would think this would potentially leave a few thousandsth of gap between the bearing and the shoulder that it is suppose to rest on. That would also explain why when you tried to use the same shims that was origninally in it, they were too tight. Just wondering if this had anything to do with it?
Nice work getting to the bottom of that one. Based on an experience I had 20 years ago, I would've sworn it was pinion nut torque that was the issue. I had an '86 Grand Marquis (exactly like the one I own now, only dark blue instead of light blue) that I changed the pinion seal on. After the job, on the test drive, I got an awful howl on decel. I ended up just having to turn the nut another 1/8th of a turn tighter, and the noise was 100% gone. Of course, this was with well worn-in ring and pinion gears - 230k miles at that time.
I swapped the carrier in my '07 Silverado last year after a routine spill-and-fill turned up a bunch of metal stuck to the magnet inside. Closer inspection revealed that nearly all the teeth on my side gears were shed right off! 97k miles - they sure don't build stuff like they used to! I bought this truck spankin' new, and I haven't the slightest idea when this happened, or when it started - the diff was completely silent in all modes of operation, and never gave me a hint of any trouble. I installed an OX air locker, and set the preload pretty tight at .004" - the very bottom of the spec. I have a nearly imperceptible howl at light throttle settings that goes away upon the slightest loading in each direction, accel, or decel. Running Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-110, since I haul cars every so often. It's not something I'm going to chase, because I think it's due to moving the mating of the ring and pinion out of the already established wear pattern. Only a ring and pinion swap would cure it completely.
Recently I had a '95 Volvo 940 wagon come in the shop with rear end shudder that would happen only when on the brakes, and just before a stop. On the lift, the whole housing would violently shake! I can't for the life of me figure out what is causing this! I pulled an axle - bearings and races look perfect. Had the cover off, and everything looks good there. All the support arms have good bushings in them, so there's no strange pinion angles happening. I would think if this were a bearing issue, we'd hear noise - it's silent, until just before the vehicle stops. The problem is exacerbated using the parking brake. Starting to wonder if maybe I have overlooked a bad rear u-joint?
Differentials are amazing pieces of engineering! I would have never attempted my own install of that Ox Locker had I not seen your Fairmont and the truck vids. I just had to see someone else do it first, and that gave me the confidence to go for it. THANKS Eric!! 👍🍻 And you and the family have a great Independence Day.
So clean under there!!👌
Eric, i would have to think that the gear tolerance is a precise limit. Therefore, i would also think it is crucial to be in those tolerances. .002" out could be a big difference in certain industries and possibly there also. If the noise comes back, let us know. Also, i can't believe you, as a mechanic, would re-use the bearing races! We leaned not to do that in H.S. Auto Shop Class back in the 70's! (Back when high schools still offered it as an elective!) Other than that, love your videos! Thanks for posting! Nick.
Both gear sets had a backlash of .011, so I'm not as inclined to agree with you that tolerance was an issue, but it could have been I suppose. As for reusing the bearing races, like I said in the video, they were the same brand and part #. Also, changing the bearings and races had no effect on the noise, so I don't think it's as big a deal as you mention, but it is the 'proper' practice. Thanks for your comment.
My friend is having the same issue on his '90 Mercedes E300. I'm glad you are so thorough, because the diff rebuild video and this one will help him out a lot. Thanks, Eric
If you can, find one of those pinion depth tools. Extremely helpful. Linked in the description.
When you said differential fluid was your favorite smell i was thinking you were some maniac lol. Good thing it was a joke. That stuff is ronchy, and then when the diff goes out, ah man that swamp water smell is just torture.
Tell me, I changed my clutch in my FTW diesel and y trenny was bad so i bought a new (used) one from a car that have sat for almost 10 years. I got the trenny checked and it was just fine but the guy that I was checking the trenny with said that by the smell and color of the fluid it may only had 1 fluid change (in 23 years). BOY that smell was hard hitting.
@@eaglefeather Wha'dya expect from dead dinosaurs and manure?
@@jeffkelley3419 gas smells better xD
I reckon that Castrol Limited Slip 90 gear oil actually smells good. Other brands I've tried have been the total opposite. Real nasty like rotting mucus or something.
I appreciate you posting these videos where things haven't gone quite right. Thanks Eric!
I have a 97 K1500. A couple of shops I asked about having rear end done claimed they would only use original GM gears since all the aftermarket ones they had tried would whine.
I talked to a very knowledgeable older drag racer when I built my 10 bolt and he told me to set the backlash on the tight side for street and loose for racing. My first install was with a motive gear set. Made bad noises. Switched to nitro gear with no more noise
Depends on stick/transbrake vs stalled auto and a bunch of other stuff. Depends on the intended usage. High shock load then 12 seconds of running needs different specs than highway heat building.. Gear composition as well setup. Just like an engine, horses for courses.
Just watching this & the noise is exactly the same we used to have with some straight cut gears in the 70's -80's. It was the gear teeth bottoming out in the opposite gear. slightly relieving the tips of the gears & undercutting the oposite groove always worked. Utter pain to do though.
Learned a bunch. Thank you!
Great man,great display of patience and not giving up, you are blessed with a great gift and knowledge,and it is trait to share knowledge
8:20 Yes it is, my personal opinion.
Lovely to see the truck, very nice build. Good quality content.
Thank you!
Eric: The suggestion to use synthetic oil I didn't agree with. The manufacturer used hypoid gear oil & it didn't make noise & doesn't in millions of differentials.. If synthetic oil had cured the noise, I would still be scratching my head when they buried me ! Great video, & as always, I learned something. Thanks Eric
Going thru a 2001 Silverado rear end right now. It is the open rear end and the smaller bevel gears both had most of the teeth breaking off the outer edge. Your video was a big help in what to look for and what to expect. Thanks
Seems like that pinion gear all nicked and mating poorly to the ring gear.
Would've lived with it on an old truck, doing this 3 times no way.
It may be that there is something more Eric's new and old subscribers could learn from this. I know I did. This seems like a straight-forward operation with the right tools and a little patience.
Im not a mechanic and i dont have an issue with my differential, BUT, i watched the whole thing, twice! lol
Very good ,informative video.
You sir were made for this .
Thanks
As soon as I heard that noise I knew right away. Gears. Only because in the Mustang world we’ve been dealing with Motive brand gears always being whiney just like that on coast. Which is why I don’t buy Motive. Glad you got it sorted. Rear end wind bugs me like nails on a chalkboard.
So frustrating, all that work and then it's still making a whining noise. Good you fixed it in the end.
Same dilemma with my significant other. Years have i tried to solve it. I came to the conclusion years ago there will always be a little whining ◑﹏◐
Try given it a good wack with ball peen hammer..if the wineing continues use larger hammer and more force..it will stop
Yes you are correct , always install new races that come with the bearing and always put a new crush sleeve in never reuse it, i also look at the outside of the pinion races as the diff housing wears and the races will spin or move in the housing .
Great video. I've got the same noise and believed it was my gear set. Installed motive racing gears and were noisy, then swapped for Yukon gears which i heard were better. Started with way less noise but still had some, 6 months later I feel it's the same noise level as the motives. Sad that I have OCD and can't not notice it every day...
I especially enjoy these episodes with your dads truck because I also have a GMT400, BUT the body on his truck is SO much nicer than mine. If I remember it started out in Chicago as a delivery truck, salt on the roads...
my old '86 C10 got the same noise but i know is my 34 years old set of gear that make it this! thx for sharing this is very helpful!
Thanks again and your attempts at objectively! New tools, new measurements, oil, parts, and installation, etc.
Mechanic told me of his days working as a tech for a Jaguar dealer in the seventies in New Zealand. They had a customer with a XJ12 they had bought new, and it had a rearend noise. They ordered in a new gear set and pulled the rearend apart for installation then realised there was an issue with the new set, if I recall the ringgear had the holes drilled but no threads cut, a problem after heat treatment. Since the customer needed the car for a trip that weekend, they reinstalled the old set with the expectation they would redo the job once they got some new parts. Customer contacts them the following week and told them the noise was gone. I asked if they reset the diff and they simpley reinstalled it as it came out.
Rear ends are hard to do without the right tool's. However, i think you did an ok job without them. I would never try rebuilding a rear end...ever!!!
Really helpful. I have the 1999 LS 4X4 full size pickup and I have to diagnose the issue with my rear differential, however. I won't have to do any of the rear-end stuff this will be the pinion gear and ujoints. This video was very helpful. Thanks a lot..
I changed an o2 sensor (the easy one) and was feeling pretty damn good, lol. Watching Eric re-do his diff three times to get rid of a slight whine is humbling.
Why did the alcoholic chase the car down the street?
Because there was a wine in the diff.
Going thru the same thing in my Dodge 3.92 rear end. Transmissions and differentials are too touchy for me, so I went to a shop in March to diagnose and fix the noise. Replaced all bearings and seals, good. Replaced fluid after 500 miles. Still whines but was assured it would need time to break in. Well, here we are 6 months later, fluid is burnt and dark, rear end is whining like crazy. Not looking forward to going back...
I don't know much about differentials, but I've been around machines long enough to recognize a harmonic imbalance noise. Also, idk if it matters but that second gear set looked like it was made out of a harder material. Thanks for the detailed video.
Any time you time you change pinion bearing preload your changing your backlash. If you tighten preload more you pull the pinion away. Tighten less and your basically pushing the pinion against the ring gear. As little as it is it still has an effect on backlash. I use motive gears and they call for pretty tight backlash. 7-9 thousandths if I remember correctly. Ford gears for example are 8-12.
Going through this exact pain right now. Gonna ride these gears until they done
Mines pretty loud just started a day ago have yours gone yet? Not sure how much longer I can ride these out
Omg I missed you dude ! Eric the car guy ! The best most complete car repair show on the net why no more fatr?
Hey where's my digital cake it's my birthday 🎂😁
I do that on my ETCG1 channel not here. ruclips.net/user/ETCG1
Happy Birthday!
I had his channels mixed up too. His budget is bigger over on his ETCG1 channel, so that's where he can afford the cakes.
Happy birthday your face
Only an old car guy but your ring pattern only reflected pinion depth. We used to look heel to toe pattern (both sides) to detect wear. Noise increases as set wears. You have two choices: replace parts or use higher viscosity to buy time till repair. In the future I recommend highest viscosity synthetic available to keep it quiet. Synthetic are better for wide temperature operating range but don't have the film strength of conventional gear oil.
Patience is golden. Good job
I'm having this issue with my 08 mustang gt with a set of 3.73 motive gears right now. I was thinking pinon bearing as well , I've had gear whine since the rear was rebuilt , but now it's making the exact same whistle/metal on metal sound your truck was making. So now I'm thinking I have a junk set of gears as well ... thanks for the video man !
I got a stang too same problem hope you got it fixed
If its the FRPP gearset they will be noisey..I think motive makes them.. But yes the 3.73 8.8 is noisey i build em.. I used a 32 thou shim perfect. Pattern 8 thou backlash.. 24 inchlb preload on pinion bearings.. 34 inchlbs preload on carrier... And i rum 75w140 or 85w140...
One of your best videos, Eric. Good work / great explanations.
Great work. Glad you got the problem solved
It sucks doing things over and over and over again, but it's a nice feeling when you finally get it.
I wish more people would make videos like this. This really teaches so much. Also makes me feel better about the howl under my car lmao
It's nice to see you learning.
Great video! I’ve watched a lot of these and you did a much better job than most on this.
I am surprised how much trouble you had with this differential. I remember the earlier videos of you adjusting the different settings, and having nothing but trouble. After watching this, I don't think I would ever try this myself.
It can be frustrating due to the work involved. The pinion depth tool really helps though.
1st set of gears just take it out and do some burnout contests that will take care of that noise Eric.
This sounds a lot better. I’m not being a jerk, but when you showed the original wear pattern , it looked like it was too deep. I’m no expert, but I did a rear gear change on my car. I was going off of your Fairlane video, and saw how much trouble you had with it, but you gave me the inspiration to get it done! I figured that since I’ve built a bunch of engines, how hard could this be? Well, it was a royal pain in the ass!! I had to remove my carrier at least 10 times to get the shims right. That was after getting the pinion depth right, and struggling to get the correct end play. I did all this with my rear on my bench! I got to the point where I got a great wear pattern, and said that’s it! It’s been running with no noises, but still not broken in yet. I’m just trying to say that I feel your frustration z, and that rearends are definitely a pain in the rear! 😉
I’m sticking to engines!!!
Hey man I really appreciate you doing the dirty work for us finding that noise. It looked like a real headache.
I've got the same kind of noise in mine and been wondering what the hell it was, gets bad at 60km/h and up and is the same decelerating or not.
It's not a matched set it's the worn race on a new bearing. When you order bulk quantity of bearings and races, we get bearings in one box and races in another. In the machine world you can frequently up or down size ID and/or OD with the same base number but a different prefix
A lot of bearings from NAPA comes as the bearing itself and you have to buy the race seperator, also Eaton Fuller trans bearings only come separate unless you buy the kit so i doubt the bearing/race was the issue. I would say the double the backlash needed was the noise from riding out on the edge of the gear vs the face, also ive had issues with Richmond and US gears that it was no getting rid of the noise no matter what i did short of changing them...yea that gear pattern looks great
This is gonna be a good video . I gotta come back later.
I can definitely empathize when it comes to leaving as is. Just can't do it.. Congrats on solving it.
My tacoma was humming very loud. The issue was too much backlash. I was told 0.004-0.008 was where it should be, and some shims fixed the problem.
Finally!!! An answer to the whine on my X5.. Great stuff 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
You have made my life at Trenholm tech real easy !
I'm happy to help!
Eric, I'm struggling here. Need your advice. My wife has a Kia sorento, 2WD, 180,000 miles. Never, ever any problem. No roar, whine, or anything. Problem. We had both my grown grandsons riding in rear seat, hit a bump, sounded like the rear bumpstops bottomed out. All was well, still no obvious problem. The next day, as we were taking my grandsons home, we drove 68 miles, 2 lane and a few miles interstate. When I got to our exit, we completed the turn, no problem, but as I pulled away from the traffic light, one helluva vibration, throughout the car. Sounded like we were traveling on the "rumble strip" on the side of the highway. By this time, I'm creeping, thinking we had a flat tire. Car would quiten down, then start shuttering again. We were just creepin. I thought I may have a bad rotor, replaced front rotors, pads on all four wheels, checked for bad spots on tires, which are new. I checked the driveshaft as well as I could, no "slop in the driveshaft, no "pop" shifting from park to drive or reverse. I even replaced the font wheel speed sensor/ ABS sensors, even though I had no code. Scanned it, no codes were stored at all. Pulled the ABS fuse, got a code, replace it, code cleared. Had to have it hauled home on a rollback wrecker. it is undriveable. My next, and last guess would be something in the rear diff. Nothing I have done has made any change. I respect your opinion, of course, I've never set one up before, so I'll have to take it to the dealer. What do you think, my friend?
Hi Eric, I am a new subscriber and really enjoying and learning from your videos. I have only done a few differentials so I am no expert, but I remember also having to set the carrier bearing preload. There is a tool the shops use that spreads the case opening a few thousands which allow more shimming on one side or the other. I think you could have added .002"-.003" on the driver side to get the backlash dialed in. I don't know if this could also cause noise, but it seams like it could.
Great vid.very informative and straightforward. Gear noise is always tricky to fix.
Hello Eric! man you've changed so much since you did that awesome air-conditioning video (one of the many many good ones) years ago and by the way have tasked myself to diagnose the prop shaft (rear) problems following MOT failure. They (garage) advised to change the whole lot but I am not doing that! I shall try to get to the source of river Nile first (find out the source of the problem if i could) Its a Toyota Landcruiser Colorado KZJ95R (1999) and the the prop shaft has a prop shaft UJ sleeve (unlike other cars or at least as far as i can see)
It’s crazy how to a younger person he looks like an old timer who probably works the railroad yet now at 28 years of age, I see a similar man who looks like me just a bit older. Time goes so fast and things change so much! 🙀 Great video though friend.
Banks diff covers did a deep dive and determined that Amzoil and then Mobile one are the best .I changed mines at 39 k on a 15 Rogue Sv Awd with Mobile one Synth 75 -90 w and it made a World of difference.OEM WAS garbage. Happy 4th 👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Excellent detailed video. You outdid yourself on this job but the whine is gone. I have a Transmission shop going to work on mine. Would like them to watch this video. I have a whine at 50 - 53 MPH only on acceleration on a Mazda MX-5 NC 2008 Automatic.
When I worked at Dana we had an issue with an entire batch of ring and pinions. Test jack didn't show any issues with gear patterns and they passed all specs. Had to field replace all the sets and it sucked really bad.
Remember to read your owners manual. 5/8” to 1 5/8” below the bottom of the fill hole. Or 2.2 qts 75w-90 syn. And if it’s not getting crazy hot or making metal it’s good. And most guys like 6 or 7. Your dads had almost double that.
Happy 4th July thank you for sharing I always love watching videos Eric I am from South Africa
Hello South Africa!
Eric you did good as usual. Those sounds can drive a person crazy i know... have a groovy day man... Bye Thomas from CA.
diff's are tricky there's preload specs for new bearings & preload specs for old bearings that looked like too much pinon preload. 49 yrs on this farm ive rebuild millions of gearboxes i know that that whine and yes always match race/cone
That's quite a testimony. Do you allow mechanical components to wear, and then change the oil or fluid?
Really enjoyed this ,
Great to see honest videos showing the good and bad times . Now I'm subscribed I can enjoy more .. 👍🏻☮❤peace and love brother from the UK where most vehicles are front wheel drive and tiny. 👍🏻😉
Always good video quality and content, rewatched video to see the dial brand you used im getting one.been watching for years hope i see you for many more.
He does a great job man some crap 💩 happens but we as mechanics learn the hard or easy way it’s his to do as he pleases the video is for help not snobs
Every video this truck has a new problem with it. The whole point of a old truck like this is it JUST WORKS!
I knew you wouldn't let it go with the noise... good job!
Video was very helpful thank you very much. I’m about to install a set of gears myself for the first time This video was very educational.
I really enjoyed this video and I'm glad you found the problem. I immediately thought gear set issues when the noise only appeared on deceleration. Those chipped teeth could have been indications of more problems later on. That being said, I never, ever replace bearings without replacing the races. That's just the way I was taught and the way I've been doing it for 60+ years.