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I would look at the shocks, ball joints, and control arm bushings to see how they are because this would be the time to do anything, especially on the lower control arms while the torsion bars are out/disconnected.

The difference will be the front differential on the your car. It will need to be removed then the procedure is similar to this one.

I agree. It is a major design failure. It could have been simplified so much, but they had to over-engineer this.

You are welcome and if there is anything that you may need, feel free to contact.

Thank you and it could be the adjuster is out causing the issue. I would also check to see how much play/slack is in your chain as well.

Yes, that is actually how I did it. The belt will have enough give as long as it is the same one that you removed and not a new one. A new belt will be a lot tighter. I do that way also so the tension is the same and it does not cause a belt noise on start up.

@@operationoverhaul Very cool. You definitely taught me something. That's one way those garages get an water pump timing belt job done quick! : )) THanks!

Are you wanting them for the flex plate and torque converter?

You're welcome and I am glad that I could help. If you need anything else or if I left something out, feel free to contact me.

Mine did work after this. Is your car trying to crank, does it just click, or does it do nothing?

@@operationoverhaulmine does nothing… same issue now

@@colbyhill2970 I would try sending power to the starter and see if it tries to crank

How did it go for you?

Sorry about that. Yes, I did use the zip ties to secure the cable into the tunnel. It made the cable work a little better than not using them because they do not allow the cable to move around.

That's good. That is a decent little fuel mileage increase as well.

These are easy to do and only take roughly 30 minutes. How many miles do you have on it?

When measuring continuity, it does not need to have any voltage on the system. You are basically send a small amount of current through the circuit to see if it is passing through without any problems. I am just using the OHMs function.

Sounds like your slave cylinder may not be working properly

I would check the slave cylinder to be sure that it is engaging all the way first.

You will get a lot of whining noises, the fluid will bubble/foam up, and/or no circulation from the the pump.

If I am doing an engine swap I normally remove the hood but when doing a head removal, it does not really get in the way much.

I agree totally and I performed a full oil change service after replacing the housing. I require the customer have an oil change while I am doing the job on one of these, any BMW really, when doing an oil filter housing gasket.

@@operationoverhaul :)

I do not know what size ratchet you are using, but try a 1/4" ratchet and use a universal joint/swivel on the socket to allow the socket to be a little off center from the bolt.

Thank you for the comment and view. I try to be as thorough as possible and show people part numbers as well.

I appreciate the sub and if there is anything that you need feel free to contact me and I will try to help out as much as I can.

You're correct, it's always recommended to replace the head bolts when you remove the head. They are considered a torque to yield bolt.

@@operationoverhaul seems to me that would make using boost something you wouldn't want to do. End up blowing the head off. Of course. What do I know?

I used my scanner and it shows what the temperatures are exactly. When you buy the thermostat it will normally give you options as to what temperature thermostat you want to buy. It will state what oe temps are as well. Also, you can touch the hose that is going to the thermostat to see if it is hot or not. If it is not hot, then the thermostat has not opened yet. But, I typically attach my scanner to cars as I can see exact temps rather than going off of the gauge as they can be off sometimes because some vehicles have two temp sensors, one for the gauge and one for the computer to monitor.

@operationoverhaul I see. Thank you. I just ordered a thermostat to fix a P0128 code that's been coming on every few days. I think usually at night when it's around 40°. The other day my truck had dumper about a cup and a half of coolant while parked. It only happened once and hasn't since

@operationoverhaul is there somewhere in can send you a video? I can now see where my coolant is leaking from. It's not the thermostat. It's a hard plastic line that 90°s in just below it on the right. Connects to the same thing that the thermostat does. Has two 8mm bolts then swings down below the hoses to the right and 90°s in. Hard black plastic. Dripping out coolant

Does the motor move whenever you put it in gear? I would get someone to watch while you put it in reverse and drive to see how much it moves when you do it.

@ hmm I’ll give that a try and I just noticed on my front motor mount the rubber piece look all ripped

@saulpalomares7824 that could be the culprit then

@@operationoverhaul haha we’re onto him I’ll change him ASAP thanks for good advice!!

Your welcome and I am glad that it helped you out. If you have any questions or if I left anything out let me know.

@operationoverhaul Roger!

This one is not a diesel so it does not have glow plugs in it. It is the gas 2.5 liter.

I agree with you on that one lol. It is a large socket to have around just out of the blue.

@operationoverhaul haha I was like, man, I got about every tool until you said 46 MM socket, I said well shit out of luck on this one, you would think the would make a seal driver that was recessed to go around a shaft for all seal sizes and locations

@@gronkykong87 I think they make a recessed type of seal driver but I cannot remember the name of the company. I will see if I can find a link for you.

This is most definitely a MB design. Just like the Compass is nothing more than a fiat.

I appreciate it. The socket used for an o2 sensor has a cut-out on it so the cable can stick out of the socket, keeping it from getting in the way of the head.

It was leaking coolant out of the front of the water pump.

Have you had the light checked yet to see what the code is?

@@operationoverhaul yes p0741 after checking carefully thoroughly from the intake it looks like it’s all connecting because I went underneath and part of the intake is rip off not sure if that’s what’s giving me that code as well ?

Torque converter clutch circuit performance/stuck off code P0741 indicates that the torque converter clutch solenoid electric circuit had performance fault or was stuck OFF for a predetermined period of time that’s what it gave me after taking to auto zone

@ from the looks of it, it should be the smae for your car too. So this should be the direction you are looking for as far as testing and following the TSB.

@@operationoverhaul so it’s solenoid?

You can change that and you are correct. If you were to purchase the housing with the seal then it would be best to change the entire housing along with the seal. I do see most people changing the seal alone more than the entire housing. It takes a little bit, not much, of extra work to take the housing out and the seal is normally the culprit to the leak at this area rather than the gasket behind the housing or the housing itself. But, I agree with you that doing the entire housing would be more beneficial.

@ thanks for the reply man and yeah I had changed the seal twice in 3 months and it still leaked. Once I did the housing it stopped the problem

@Sk-lo6kn that's good to know actually. I personally have never had a housing fail like that on a 4.3 but I have seen plenty of seal housings on the ls style engines fail.

@@operationoverhaul it was on my 2008 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.3

Plus going through the TSB step by step can get pricey as well because there are like 5 different steps to take. It can take you through every step, which can be lots of fluid along with every step. You could be out thousands of dollars before you actually fix the issue.

Mine had a metal ring that went inside of the entire thing and that along with the boot being stiff made it hard to move.

I tried finding the u-joints but they do not them separately. It only comes as an entire unit. I wish that they would sell just the joints.

@operationoverhaul the u-joint is probably a standard industry item that chevy grabbed from a catalog. If you can press it out, measure it and try to find a standard unit from a u-joint manufacturer. I have a 2007 impala that was making sounds and tight spots in the steering. I soaked u-joints with an oily rag. Problem solved. But, for how long? I'm hoping your investigation is successful. Good luck.

Да, тормоза были действительно плохими, но клиент не хотел их менять. Я дал им знать, насколько плохи роторы.

I ordered it from the dealership. They were the only place that had one at the time. You can get them on rockauto the last time I saw.

Thanks, I'll try to make more videos like this in the future! Let me know if there's anything specific you'd like to see!

No problem at all, let me know if there is anything else you need help with.

I appreciate that. If you need any help while you are doing the repair feel free to contact me in case I forgot to put something in the video that you may need.

@ I really do appreciate it! I’m doing this truck without the fender and front end on it just to make a little easier on me. Also doing a CP3 like you did with lift pump.

I am right there with you on that. I mean they could have made it so much easier to do. Honda did it this way back in the 90's too

That o-ring goes onto your hose that threads into the new rack. It should have came with two o-rings actually because both hoses should have them on the ends of the hose.

Sure, what are you needing help with? If you are needing any diagrams or work instructions I can send them to you via instagram or email.

If done properly, it should be running good with no issues. I will say that some of these will have the timing marks off and cause a crank/cam correlation code and they need to be like one or two teeth off of top dead center. Before removing anything, I would line up the crankshaft mark and see where the camshaft timing marks fall in relationship to one another.

You are looking at about 1200 in parts and that includes all the chains, tensioners, gaskets, etc. I appreciate the comment. It really is not to bad if you just take your time and double check everything.

I agree. Plus, this truck sits under a tree most of the time as well. So that is a good possibility.