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I really looks worse than it is lol.

No, I did not have to activate the clutch because the vacuum that was applied will pull enough into the system to activate the clutch on the compressor.

You are welcome and I am glad that I could help you save some money. If you need anything else feel free to contact me and I will try as much as I can to help you out. Thank you for the comment and the view.

I have never had an issue with Monroe personally but I know people who have had issues like you are stating. They said that the car does sit lower and rides stiffer. I have had issues with Masterpro parts before though. I would prefer factory parts but I know that is not always an option. You could try swapping your springs from the original ones to the new ones and see if that makes a difference. I know that is a lot of unnecessary work though.

That's good to know. Thank you. I contacted a chrysler dealership and that is where they said it was and that is why I stated that in the video. Thank you for the info because it will help out a lot of people.

@@operationoverhaul Glad to help. I did not mean to sound critical.I had a heck of a time finding the thing on my '02 TJ when I replaced the evaporator and receiver/dryer last fall. I should have started by saying thanks for the video. It is very informative. The torque specs were very helpful and the tip about installing the power steering bracket was spot on.

@Mark-i5q you are perfectly fine. I did not take it in any kind of demeaning way at all. I am glad that you pointed it out. This is how we all learn and grow. I have gotten wrong information from dealerships, prodemand, and etc. Thank you again.

You do not have to have the bracket but it does hold some stuff. Also if there is oil leaking from the threads it may be cracked to the inside of the head. That could be an issue.

@@operationoverhaul Yea I'm not to sure. 160 compression on every cylinder so I wouldn't think I'd have a cracked head yk.

I can get everything for you. Let me look it all up for you.

The axle bolt is 200 nM + 180°, ball joint to lower control arm is 100 nM, then the tie rod to knuckle is 20nM + 90°

@operationoverhaul Thank you soo much! You're such a blessing 🙌!

@danielfinlay1694 you are very welcome.

Do you have a temp gun? If so, check the temperature across the condenser to see if it is a lot hotter on one side versus the other.

@@operationoverhaul I don’t, but I could get one and try it. That said, the condenser was replaced just a few month back and the whole system recharged. I’ve only had the truck a month, so it was the previous owner that did it. The condenser looks brand new though, so I would imagine it’s not the culprit.

@DevinGrindy if it has been replaced I would check the pressure switch. There is one on the compressor and then one on the high pressure line. I believe it is near the condenser on the driver side but I cannot remember. It may also be closer to the compressor.

@@operationoverhaul I appreciate it!

@DevinGrindy your welcome and if you need anything more help or anything let me know

For the price of this kit and the time it take, I would try this and see if it cleared up any of it. Also, do a new filter and VW transmission fluid if you can.

You are welcome and the customer did not have any issues with that but I have changed them before with the FEBI ones and they are just as good as the factory ones in my opinion. I do not think they are a waste of money at all. I would get them because they cheaper than factory and just as durable.

You are very welcome. I am glad the video helped you and I hope it saved you some money as well because the dealer charges a decent amount to do it around here.

I am guessing you checked for any leaks already. I would let it come up to temp and check to see if both radiator hoses are hot. If they are not both hot then you may have a bad thermostat

It is pretty much the same procedure. It may have a line or so that is a little different routing wise.

I think it was one of last one they ended up making. I wish they still had this design but they quit making it about 3 months after I made this video. I think they went to another graphic on it though.

@@operationoverhaul Do you remember how much you paid for it?

@nathandnicholson it was around 1500 I believe.

I advised the customer that he will need to put different ball joints in it or he will be changing them more often. He said he would do it when the ball joints wear out the first time. He since sold the truck now though.

Glad I could help

In the description, I stated that it is my sisters car and that she hit a deer. So the scratches from pulling this headlight is the least of her worries at this point. Now if it was nice and did not have the dents and scratches in it, I would worry about scratching it up.

It may need to be adjusted to lower it down a little bit but it could be a sign of the master cylinder failing internally due to a bad seal. This one had around 140k I believe on it.

@@operationoverhaul TY! The Master Clutch push rod is failing, it's not pushing into the petal, so the torsion spring kicked the petal up higher. It does drive, so if I chose not to do the replacement because I don't have all the things needed to lift the truck to bleed the air, at least I can get it to my mechanic. 😏 Cha-ching. 🙄

@kajala11 your welcome and at least you can drive it to somewhere and do not have to have it towed so that will save some money.

You can do that but I always unplug the battery when dealing with a starter or alternator just to eliminate the possibility to grounding something out. I know it has a cover over the wire but I have seen them arc through the rubber if there is a cut in them.

You're welcome!

I used the bolt on the harmonic balancer to rotate the engine.

This is a customers car and they do not own it anymore. What is your car doing and I can try to help you with it?

@@operationoverhaul Thanks, I have a 2013 GS450h mint condition 80,000 miles. I’m not sure it’s from racing around a lot but the hybrid battery display never indicates 100% anymore, always one digit from 100% full. Also the battery that turns the car on can’t be left sitting for more than two days or it will die. Do you know of a bigger more powerful battery that will hold a charge longer than the OME battery. Im not sure about your demographics whether or not you’re in America but I am in America I that at all matters as far as parts availability.

@@TheFriendlyPsychopath. I live in South Carolina, so I am in America as well. If it is draining down enough to the point that it is dying overnight on the 12v battery then you have a parasitic draw somewhere. Even if you put a battery with more CCA in it, the battery would still die in the same amount of time. As far as the hybrid battery, I have only every seen one go full 100% charge once on any hybrid car. They normally will not let them get to the 100% mark because it has a battery sensor/ecm that will not allow them to get to that point because it can cause over charging then the battery temperatures will rise causing a risk of explosion to the battery.

@@operationoverhaul Okay good (on the hybrid battery), sometimes it does go to 100 but rarely and not for long. I trouble shot for a parasitic draw, I keep the map display off and I drive the car long enough for the alternator to recharge the battery. As long as I drive the car every other day there's no problem. I was letting the car sit for up to 4 maybe sometimes 5 days then go to start it and it will be just lights blinking.

@@operationoverhaul Any thoughts on a strong compatible batter or even a compatible replacement battery that’s cheaper than the dealer battery.

Thank you for the comment and I had the same issue with the gasket. It took a minute to remove it as well. If you have any other questions about the car feel free to contact me.

Murray makes a service kit with all of the gaskets but it has the pag oil and drier with it. I could not find just the gaskets by themselves. MUK20003 is the part number.

@@operationoverhaul thank you for getting back with me so quickly!

It is actually a lot harder to be honest. You have to remove most of the trunk carpet and interior to access the sensor and upper bolts then the differential support cover underneath with some of the control arms. I do not have a video up of that sorry.

It helps remove moisture and will let you know if there is a leak. If you do not have one you can still do the job. I just prefer to do use them to ensure that no leaks are present.

I fully understand that. That is one reason I started doing the videos as well to show my customers that I actually change stuff and I try to show me running the vehicles at the end as well. There is a pressure switch both high and low for this.

I actually did rotate it over while the leak down gauge was on it to ensure that the valves were fully seated. I have videos up of the head gasket and head fix. The machine shop performed a pressure test on it and they found that cylinder to have leaks on all of the valves actually but the intake valves were worse.

I would remove the belt and spin the compressor to see if that is what is making the noise.

You are welcome. Finding the parts were a nightmare. That is why I tried to put all of the numbers on the descriptions for everyone.

It has timing marks on the cam gears and on the back of the cams they have a flat spot on them that should be parallel to the head.

@@operationoverhaul how do you turn them, just by hand?

Check your struts before doing the compressor because they will do the same thing as this one was doing as well.

Yeah that is true. I normally always quote a belt with the job just to be safe. I have seen lately that some compressor will not warranty a compressor now unless you change the belt, especially if it is a stretch belt, and most require you to flush the system no matter what too. But if the belt is in good condition you are right, you can always walk them off just like you put them on.

Actually it is just a support rod and does not actuate. I thought it may have some suspension quality to it but no it does not. I think a spring would be a better design to be honest.

Sorry I did not get a start up. I was still figuring out filming stuff at this point as well. But, the car is still running great till this day with no issues.

@@operationoverhaul right on!

Your are very welcome. If there is anything else that you may need feel free to let me know.

The rattle you are hearing is more than likely the tensioner rattling until pressure is applied. From my experience, on a oil pump rattle you would get the rattling coming from the oil pan area and normally there is metal in the oil and the oil pressure would be off or the the oil pressure light would illuminate.

Glad it was helpful!

If you ever have any questions about anything feel free to ask away. It does not have to be just this truck but anything.

You are too kind!! Thank you! I wont forget! My 96 TK is going to be d4iven until the cab rusts out))

Your welcome and if it is your first time doing the job, make sure to label everything as you go. It can get a little cluttered in there.

Yeah this was a NA 3.5l and I drain the oil out of every compressor to make sure that the correct amount it in them. I have had them, actually most of the time, not have the correct amount in them. They are normally lower than what it calls for.

@operationoverhaul mine is slowly on its way out. Hasn't locked up or anything yet. Do you think I need to replace the orifice tube and other components or do you think it will be fine to do just the compressor. I wouldn't think there would be any debris in the system

@cootingram6265 as long as there is no debris in it then I would say you should be okay but if you take the compressor off, try draining some oil out of the old one to make sure there is no metal.

@@operationoverhaul thanks for your input!

@cootingram6265 your welcome and if you need anything else feel free to ask.

Your welcome and thank you for watching. I have the specs and they are: Caster- 2.8 +/- 1 degree, camber - 0 +/- 1 degree, toe is .1 +/- .2 degrees. So you are correct on the specs. I can send you an image of it too if you would like. Again thank you for the view and the comment.

No they are not owned by oreilly. I can get you a link to the Murray if you would like. I'll get it for you tonight when I get home.

Yeah that would be great. I looked all over the internet. I can not find Murray Climate Control website anywhere. But I do believe O Riley’s owns the trademark for Murray. No other parts store sells that brand.

You are correct. I looked it up and Murray was purchased by Oreilly's Auto. I also discovered that RYC and Four Seasons are sister companies as well. So a RYC and Four Seasons (I think Napa carries them) are the made in the same factory. I could not find a link to a Murray for you. The RYC is the only one I can find. Sorry about that.

No problem. I just wanted to double check some of the part numbers before I purchased and came along all of this. I do know RYC has a website but even putting all my info in. It shows a couple of kits but It doesn’t show the difference. So I have tried calling them and I emailed them waiting on a response. But your video is very helpful. I just like doing a lot of investigating before I purchase. Just so I have all the right stuff here when I go tearing it down.

I wish more people would be like you and research stuff before purchasing. Sometimes more expensive is not always the best option. If you need anything else feel free to contact me. I will help out as much as I can.

If you have a BMW tow hook it fits in the engine. I think the threads are a M16x3.

The wiring diagram shows it grounding through the housing.

You connect a can tap to the yellow line and fill it through the gauges on the blue line. I can send you a link to another one of my videos if you would like