I just removed it all and cleaned it this past weekend. I had the egr codes and sure enough it was caked up inside. I had to use a unique combination of wrenches to get the very back two nuts loose. They were tight as hell.
Someone made a video about those bolts. He taped 2 box wrenches together and cranked on them to get the bolts. It is a 3 minute video and a follow up/addition to someone elses video.
@@shannonp4037 I used a short gear wrench on the nuts with the box end of a 23 mm slid over it pointed horizontally straight at the radiator. Then I put a bar in the open end of the 23 mm vertically. It broke right lose after I tried everything else.
Thanks, I know some of these repairs can be hard but a good walk-through video helps make it less intimidating. Glad I can help people pick up their wrenches, get their hands greasy and save a few bucks.
You’re welcome. Replacing the EGR is not a bad idea, I thought about it but I’m that guy who is such a penny pincher you can see an impression of Abe’s face on the other side of the coin. But I’m glad I encouraged you to pick up a wrench and get your hands greasy.
@@ThatllDoEngineering Haha! Yes, I did, and I got that damn black crud all over everywhere! some of it dropped to the garage floor, and I tracked it into the house and on the carpet- UGH, thank goodness we have a Rug Dr... and more elbow grease! My 07 (actually, 12/06) LBZ is throwing PO402 along with P0675 glow-plug #5 codes, so I think I can get away with buying minimal parts... Thanks again, OM'sT, and take care!
@@ThatllDoEngineering I purchased a new egr valve and a Bullet Proof cooler, and my mechanic installed it and then took the truck for a test drive. Everything went fine until he hit around 22 lbs of boost, and then everything began to shake and knock like crazy, so he shut it down immediately. He towed it back to the shop and did a balance test and found cylinder #4 was reading at 12, so the next step was to do a compression test, which showed that cylinder #4's compression was low at around 100 psi. Next, I had to wait for a week, since they had to finish the truck that was already on the rack. They finally finished that truck and went in and see what was happening; I was thinking I may need a new block or something super expensive! It turns out that while they were replacing the EGR valve and cooler, somehow, a washer dropped into the intake and got pulled into the cylinder -UGH! The mechanic said that the shop will cover a new left head and piston, but I'll have to wait another couple of weeks for the parts to arrive and get everything installed. Wow, what an ordeal, but I'll tell ya, I am so relieved the cylinder wasn't scored or damaged in any way; it could've been much, much worse!
Holy crap what a mess, I suppose you’re lucky that the shop will incur the costs of the repair. But it sucks to be without your ride for a month during all this.
I’m battling the top Turbo shield right now. In process of doing a delete. These trucks are not user friendly.. I’m having issues with the 2 cooler bolts. Trying to find the right angle and socket to go on. I remember way back when I did a down pipe on my lb7 I used chains and searched straps and a jack to break loos bolts 🙈. I guess a 6 point socket would be best I read. I tried just the socket with the wrench and it would t sit on flush due to ratchet. Added an extension but it’s way too tight. The swivel makes me think I’ll strip it with all the angles. You sure made it look easy my friend.
It wasn’t easy but but I doubt anybody would want to see a video of me lying across an engine bay cussing for 1/2 hour. Those two bolts are the worst part of the job. Mine broke loose fairly easy I suppose. Getting the socket wrench in there and being able to put any kind of torque on it is difficult to put it mildly.
Might have still cost you less than taking it to a dealer for repair. I did this job for a friend who was quoted a couple grand to clear the “egr low flow” code. The dealer was just going to replace the egr and cooler. I cleaned both and six months later no code.
Preventative maintenance, although my dad did notice a performance difference afterwords. But I cleaned some other things like the maf sensor, turbo inlet wheel. So it’s hard to say it made a performance difference but I kinda think it would have to with as clogged as that thing was
What are you using to clean the residue? Can I use just any old engine degreaser ? Also how clean does it need to be ? I am in the process of replacing a regulator and when I removed the top portion of the EGR valve I noticed the inner walls were just as bad if not worse than yours. When replacing the aluminum gaskets did you use any silicone ? When removing the valve cover I noticed a silicone residue as well as the gaskets.?
I used zep degreaser, probably the same as engine degreaser just without the spray can propellant. I just removed the build up as best I could, I don’t see a need to get it perfect.
Hey, I got a question I had this done to my truck by a mechanic and mine was probably four times as clogged but clean it up put it back together a new EGR valve. Truck runs good. It kicked back and exhaust filter code and then cleared itself about 20 miles down the road almost went into limp mode now the truck is cleared. The code runs fine, but definitely noticed a distinct noise coming from the right dash side engine forward. It almost sounds like sand. It only happens under a load when it’s in gear any info help thanks.
The passenger side up pipe (where the egr valve is mounted) is notorious for cracking at the bellows section. I’m not sure about sounding llike sand but exhaust leaks and thin rattling metal could make a strange noise. You might want to check for Duramax groups on Facebook like “Strictly LBZ Duramax”. Maybe somebody else has had the same issue. Of course most of them will tell you to just delete the EGR.
Would it be safe to clean them out with a pressure washer after I'm done scrubbing all the parts? Or is there anyelectric components I can damage doing that? I Have a 2006 duramax LBZ as well with 283k miles.
The part that operates the egr is an electric motor, the rest is just metal valves and tubes. I’m not sure I would use a pressure washer just because I’m not sure those parts are designed to handle 2000 psi of water pressure. But I’m no expert on this just my thoughts.
Great video. Does your LBZ making like a buzzing noise/sound when on idle at a stop sign or red light. Mine LBZ does. I think it’s the EGR because it’s coming from the passenger side. Thank you hope to hear a response.
I have never heard a buzzing sound, the valve itself is an electric motor so I suppose it could be worn or stuck and make a buzzing sound. if you’re on Facebook join the “LBZ Duramax Diesel Forum” group. A lot of knowledgeable LBZ owners on there that might be able to point you in the right direction.
I’m throwing 3 codes recently and have already had the shop clean my MAF sensor and tighten my intake components. The codes returned in less than a day but the shop I take it to can’t get me in until April 8th. I’m thinking about trying to clean it myself to see if that will clear the codes. My codes are P0401 P0404 and P0299 with only 144k miles on my 05 LLY. How long did the whole process take you?
I'm familiar with the PO401 MAF code and the PO404 EGR air recirculation, but the PO299 code is a turbo under-boost code that I haven't had to deal with yet. Here's a message board on it:www.dieselplace.com/threads/p0299-turbo-underboost.942097/ Good luck!
Hey, thatOaklandfan, I just started getting the PO299 code and was already seeing the PO404 & PO404 codes. Did you resolve your code issues, and if so, what was the fix? Thanks, and take care!
I didn’t replace any they are all metal gaskets on the egr valve, intake and egr cooler. It might be good practice to replace them, but didn’t feel the need to.
It’s all metal parts so I don’t see why not. But I’m not sure what electrolysis will do to the different metals, or if it will even remove this sticky mess from the parts.
I have a 09 LMM and thinkin of just deleting the EGR as long as I get someone to re-program the computer then I'll get better flow without all the gunk buildup in the egr, also I know I'll have to get another intake tube from my K&N filter to the turbo
It looks like p0403 is an electrical issue. Maybe the egr valve has failed or a wiring issue. I have cleared an EGR low flow code by cleaning the egr on a friend’s truck. But it seems unlikely that a dirty egr would throw the p0403. But I’m no expert.
Great video. I've already had my EGR valve and cooler replaced once and its at it again. Thinking of doing the work myself but not looking forward to the timeframe. I would take it to my mechanic but don't have the funds to spare. How long did it take you to do this?
It took me about half a day. The biggest pain is the two bolts holding the cooler to the passenger side up pipe. They are difficult to get to and did not want to break loose.
I used some Deep Creep on mine, just getting and wrench on those things is tough and uncomfortable when you’re laying across the engine bay. The things we do to save a few bucks.
Hi .new subscriber . My 2005 duramax keeps failing emissions in CT. Always passed .im so close to passing acored a 48 and 40nis max allowable ...ive owned the truck fornjust acouple of years..passed twice .i cleaned k&n air filter .changed oil .changee fiel filters .ran a chemical fule system cleaner ... im not much of a diesel guy ..my diesel mechanic buddy said maybe my pcv or egr are dirty ..truck has an MBPR exhaust and a cold air intake i forget the brand... and i realized i havent touchee pcv or egr in 5 years and im a contractor so truck gets worked ...any suggestions and help are GREATLY APPRECIATED THANKYOU Frank .
As you saw in the video the intakes on this truck get pretty clogged with oil and soot. Probably worth your time to clean it. If the veins in your turbo were stuck like mine were it would throw a code. I’ve been using Hot Shots every day treatment in my fuel for a while.
Nope, you can if you want to, but you won’t lose much coolant since you’re working on the top of the motor. You will have some spillage so have some rags ready and plug your turbo inlet. Draining coolant might save a bit of a mess but I think it’s pretty unavoidable as the cooler and lines will likely still hold coolant.
Pretty bad I guess, I did the same thing to a friend’s truck because he had an egr code. His didn’t seem much worse than dad’s truck, but it must have been to throw a code.
The pcv vents into the intake. Some oil gets past the rings and mixes with the soot in the intake that causes this sludge. A pcv catch can or re-route can minimize the sludge build up.
@@aaronmcgowen3890 I reused the gaskets which is obviously not recommended but I hate spending money I don’t have to and they all appeared in good shape
@@aaronmcgowen3890 I don’t know the torque specs and can’t say for sure if I ever looked for them. I just calibrated my right elbow for “that’ll do” it usually clicks when the bolts are tight. I should probably see a doctor for that.
I have an 08 Duramax that I was told may have a blown head gasket. I heard that these can have a gasket leak and make the engine appear to have a blown head gasket so I was going to do this and see if it fixes my problem. Have you heard of this?
There is exhaust and coolant in the egr cooler. If they are cracked internally you would end up with coolant in you’re intake. But if you have exhaust coming out the oil fill, I don’t believe any problem with the egr can cause that. What head gasket symptoms are you experiencing?
I have a lly duramax with codes p0404 and p0401 as well as p0670 witch is a glow plug module code I’m getting white smoke when I start driving when it’s cold and only sometimes when it warmed up just a puff and then never again until I start it back up any ideas? No head gasket symptoms could it be my egr cracked?
I would think that a cracked egr cooler would cause white smoke by getting coolant in the cylinders. But white smoke is a symptom of a bad injector too. But I’ve seen other LBZ owners say a little puff of smoke on startup is normal. Pulling the intake pipe to get down to the EGR valve is a pretty easy job and you can clean the egr without removing it with brakleen or carb cleaner. How often are you adding coolant?If the cooler is leaking I would think you’d see evidence in the egr. Make sure to clean the MAP sensor while you’re in the, they can cause the P0401 code I believe.
I drove back from vegas about 300 miles and I had to add a little over half gallon so it’s definitely using it. My injector balances seem fine I’m not sure if the smoke could be caused by the bad glow plug module I wasn’t thinking so but I’m going to pull the egr off and check it out get it pressure tested
So figured out my egr cooler is cracked no leaking on my heads at all I just wanna be sure it’s definitely not my head gaskets after get it all back together!
No codes, just heard these things get filthy inside and doing some preventative maintenance. I had a p0101 and 2563a but that was cured when I got the turbo veins cleaned up and moving again.
Im showing a p0101 on my 05 lly. Cleaned maf checked filter but it it still going into limp mode intermittently on acceleration. I have ordered a new Maf. But i have also read that a stuck open egr valve can throw a p0101 code? Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thank you for your videos brother!!
If I remember right I believe a boost leak can cause P0101 as well. I’m pretty sure that’s the code I got when I forgot to re-connect the charge pipe from the intercooler to the intake (oops). So you might check for boost leaks. I would think a stuck egr could do it and I do remember seeing a bad maf sensor can throw that code.
Not sure where you live, but just delete it. More power, better mpg, engine will last longer. Dang, it's been so long since my engine bay looked like that I almost forgot what it used to look like. If you live in a less free state, purchase a large ultra sonic cleaner. It'll pay for itself.
it seems to me if enough auto manafacturers would tell the EPA to F O. they wouldnt have to build this unreliable shit.i respect caterpillar telling the EPA to eat shit, & just stopped building problem filled "SMOG" engines.why waste your time building shit? after all thats what china is for.its all they can make.let them build it.
Awesome video!!! Thanks for sharing it
Magic Fingers! Magic Result. I have an LBZ and it is emissions exempt in PA.
I just removed it all and cleaned it this past weekend. I had the egr codes and sure enough it was caked up inside. I had to use a unique combination of wrenches to get the very back two nuts loose. They were tight as hell.
Those back two bolts are a pain
Someone made a video about those bolts. He taped 2 box wrenches together and cranked on them to get the bolts. It is a 3 minute video and a follow up/addition to someone elses video.
@@shannonp4037 I used a short gear wrench on the nuts with the box end of a 23 mm slid over it pointed horizontally straight at the radiator. Then I put a bar in the open end of the 23 mm vertically. It broke right lose after I tried everything else.
i have an old ford i use it as a planter it does not have this either - but i respect good technology that still runs
Great job! Thanks for the video. Really informative.
Thanks, I know some of these repairs can be hard but a good walk-through video helps make it less intimidating. Glad I can help people pick up their wrenches, get their hands greasy and save a few bucks.
Thanks for the walk-thru vid! I think I'm going to purchase and replace the EGR valve and motor and clean the rest of the intake and cooling parts..
You’re welcome. Replacing the EGR is not a bad idea, I thought about it but I’m that guy who is such a penny pincher you can see an impression of Abe’s face on the other side of the coin. But I’m glad I encouraged you to pick up a wrench and get your hands greasy.
@@ThatllDoEngineering Haha! Yes, I did, and I got that damn black crud all over everywhere! some of it dropped to the garage floor, and I tracked it into the house and on the carpet- UGH, thank goodness we have a Rug Dr... and more elbow grease! My 07 (actually, 12/06) LBZ is throwing PO402 along with P0675 glow-plug #5 codes, so I think I can get away with buying minimal parts... Thanks again, OM'sT, and take care!
@@ThatllDoEngineering I purchased a new egr valve and a Bullet Proof cooler, and my mechanic installed it and then took the truck for a test drive. Everything went fine until he hit around 22 lbs of boost, and then everything began to shake and knock like crazy, so he shut it down immediately. He towed it back to the shop and did a balance test and found cylinder #4 was reading at 12, so the next step was to do a compression test, which showed that cylinder #4's compression was low at around 100 psi. Next, I had to wait for a week, since they had to finish the truck that was already on the rack. They finally finished that truck and went in and see what was happening; I was thinking I may need a new block or something super expensive! It turns out that while they were replacing the EGR valve and cooler, somehow, a washer dropped into the intake and got pulled into the cylinder -UGH! The mechanic said that the shop will cover a new left head and piston, but I'll have to wait another couple of weeks for the parts to arrive and get everything installed. Wow, what an ordeal, but I'll tell ya, I am so relieved the cylinder wasn't scored or damaged in any way; it could've been much, much worse!
Holy crap what a mess, I suppose you’re lucky that the shop will incur the costs of the repair. But it sucks to be without your ride for a month during all this.
Thank you very much helpful
You can use ez off oven cleaner to remove all the black gunk. Then hose it down to clean it up.
Awesome idea
Copper antiseize is excellent on them bolt threads
I have an old Ford that doesn't have this, but I do like watching videos of folks getting their hands dirty and saving some $$$
Ty👍
I’m battling the top Turbo shield right now. In process of doing a delete.
These trucks are not user friendly..
I’m having issues with the 2 cooler bolts. Trying to find the right angle and socket to go on.
I remember way back when I did a down pipe on my lb7 I used chains and searched straps and a jack to break loos bolts 🙈.
I guess a 6 point socket would be best I read. I tried just the socket with the wrench and it would t sit on flush due to ratchet. Added an extension but it’s way too tight. The swivel makes me think I’ll strip it with all the angles.
You sure made it look easy my friend.
It wasn’t easy but but I doubt anybody would want to see a video of me lying across an engine bay cussing for 1/2 hour. Those two bolts are the worst part of the job. Mine broke loose fairly easy I suppose. Getting the socket wrench in there and being able to put any kind of torque on it is difficult to put it mildly.
@@ThatllDoEngineering ok I’m glad it’s not just me! I got the shields and down pipe off tho today.
If your egr is clogged up your intake ports are just as bad .
Pull the heads for good cleaning studs and fresh gaskets along with egr delete .
This is a great video.. 👍 sadly I got as far as the stubborn 2 bolts bw the eg cooler and up pipe.. on site specialist =$300/ bolt
Dang!!!!!!!
Ouch, that sucks, did they both snap or just refused to come loose?
Might have still cost you less than taking it to a dealer for repair. I did this job for a friend who was quoted a couple grand to clear the “egr low flow” code. The dealer was just going to replace the egr and cooler. I cleaned both and six months later no code.
Great video! Was the truck having any symptoms with the clogged egr, or was this just for preventative maintenance?
Preventative maintenance, although my dad did notice a performance difference afterwords. But I cleaned some other things like the maf sensor, turbo inlet wheel. So it’s hard to say it made a performance difference but I kinda think it would have to with as clogged as that thing was
What are you using to clean the residue? Can I use just any old engine degreaser ? Also how clean does it need to be ? I am in the process of replacing a regulator and when I removed the top portion of the EGR valve I noticed the inner walls were just as bad if not worse than yours. When replacing the aluminum gaskets did you use any silicone ? When removing the valve cover I noticed a silicone residue as well as the gaskets.?
I used zep degreaser, probably the same as engine degreaser just without the spray can propellant. I just removed the build up as best I could, I don’t see a need to get it perfect.
I can’t believe you took the whole thing out. I would have just deleted it and tuned it. I could see the intake cleaning for sure.
I would have to keep putting it back on and off again every two years to pass smog just too much hassle.
Another question. I too live in California. The PCV reroute, does that effect emissions? I want to make sure I can get my truck to pass Smog!!!
You will have to put it back to stock for emissions testing
Hey, I got a question I had this done to my truck by a mechanic and mine was probably four times as clogged but clean it up put it back together a new EGR valve. Truck runs good. It kicked back and exhaust filter code and then cleared itself about 20 miles down the road almost went into limp mode now the truck is cleared. The code runs fine, but definitely noticed a distinct noise coming from the right dash side engine forward. It almost sounds like sand. It only happens under a load when it’s in gear any info help thanks.
The passenger side up pipe (where the egr valve is mounted) is notorious for cracking at the bellows section. I’m not sure about sounding llike sand but exhaust leaks and thin rattling metal could make a strange noise. You might want to check for Duramax groups on Facebook like “Strictly LBZ Duramax”. Maybe somebody else has had the same issue. Of course most of them will tell you to just delete the EGR.
Anywhere I can find the torque specs for putting the valve back on?
Would it be safe to clean them out with a pressure washer after I'm done scrubbing all the parts? Or is there anyelectric components I can damage doing that? I Have a 2006 duramax LBZ as well with 283k miles.
The part that operates the egr is an electric motor, the rest is just metal valves and tubes. I’m not sure I would use a pressure washer just because I’m not sure those parts are designed to handle 2000 psi of water pressure. But I’m no expert on this just my thoughts.
John. Did you use a pressure washer?
Great video. Does your LBZ making like a buzzing noise/sound when on idle at a stop sign or red light. Mine LBZ does. I think it’s the EGR because it’s coming from the passenger side. Thank you hope to hear a response.
I have never heard a buzzing sound, the valve itself is an electric motor so I suppose it could be worn or stuck and make a buzzing sound. if you’re on Facebook join the “LBZ Duramax Diesel Forum” group. A lot of knowledgeable LBZ owners on there that might be able to point you in the right direction.
@@ThatllDoEngineering thank you so much. Some guy today told me it could be the vacuum pump I’ll look into both. Thank you !
@@bigshow0511Did u figure it out? Mine was leaking exhaust out the egr cooler and into the coolant.
I’m throwing 3 codes recently and have already had the shop clean my MAF sensor and tighten my intake components. The codes returned in less than a day but the shop I take it to can’t get me in until April 8th. I’m thinking about trying to clean it myself to see if that will clear the codes. My codes are P0401 P0404 and P0299 with only 144k miles on my 05 LLY. How long did the whole process take you?
About half the day with a couple breaks when something was being stubborn. Those two bolts holding the egr to the up pipe will test your patience.
I'm familiar with the PO401 MAF code and the PO404 EGR air recirculation, but the PO299 code is a turbo under-boost code that I haven't had to deal with yet. Here's a message board on it:www.dieselplace.com/threads/p0299-turbo-underboost.942097/ Good luck!
Hey, thatOaklandfan, I just started getting the PO299 code and was already seeing the PO404 & PO404 codes. Did you resolve your code issues, and if so, what was the fix? Thanks, and take care!
Did you to replace any of the gaskets? If so, which ones?
I didn’t replace any they are all metal gaskets on the egr valve, intake and egr cooler. It might be good practice to replace them, but didn’t feel the need to.
Any gaskets or seals involved in this process that might need to be replaced?
They were all steel gaskets, I didn’t see a need to. But it’s probably a good idea to replace them.
Can you clean the EGR valve and cooler by soaking metal parts only in an electrolysis tank?
It’s all metal parts so I don’t see why not. But I’m not sure what electrolysis will do to the different metals, or if it will even remove this sticky mess from the parts.
I have a 09 LMM and thinkin of just deleting the EGR as long as I get someone to re-program the computer then I'll get better flow without all the gunk buildup in the egr, also I know I'll have to get another intake tube from my K&N filter to the turbo
I’d love to do that but need it for smog
Would this be a fix for a P0403 code or is that something electrical with the EGR?
It looks like p0403 is an electrical issue. Maybe the egr valve has failed or a wiring issue. I have cleared an EGR low flow code by cleaning the egr on a friend’s truck. But it seems unlikely that a dirty egr would throw the p0403. But I’m no expert.
@@ThatllDoEngineering thank you very much
Great video. I've already had my EGR valve and cooler replaced once and its at it again. Thinking of doing the work myself but not looking forward to the timeframe. I would take it to my mechanic but don't have the funds to spare. How long did it take you to do this?
It took me about half a day. The biggest pain is the two bolts holding the cooler to the passenger side up pipe. They are difficult to get to and did not want to break loose.
@@ThatllDoEngineering yea might want to soak them with wd-40 for at least an hour, and heat them up a bit with a torch. They'll break loose
I used some Deep Creep on mine, just getting and wrench on those things is tough and uncomfortable when you’re laying across the engine bay. The things we do to save a few bucks.
@@ThatllDoEngineering will be the same on the 3.0 Duramax? The new engine .. I really appreciate u videos
Hardest part will be those 2 studs in the back of the egr cooler. Pretty easy job otherwise.
Did you have to program it when you put it back together ?
No programming required for this, just clearing the egr low-flow code if you it popped up on your truck
Hi .new subscriber . My 2005 duramax keeps failing emissions in CT. Always passed .im so close to passing acored a 48 and 40nis max allowable ...ive owned the truck fornjust acouple of years..passed twice .i cleaned k&n air filter .changed oil .changee fiel filters .ran a chemical fule system cleaner ... im not much of a diesel guy ..my diesel mechanic buddy said maybe my pcv or egr are dirty ..truck has an MBPR exhaust and a cold air intake i forget the brand... and i realized i havent touchee pcv or egr in 5 years and im a contractor so truck gets worked ...any suggestions and help are GREATLY APPRECIATED THANKYOU
Frank .
As you saw in the video the intakes on this truck get pretty clogged with oil and soot. Probably worth your time to clean it. If the veins in your turbo were stuck like mine were it would throw a code. I’ve been using Hot Shots every day treatment in my fuel for a while.
What did you use to clean it out with ?
degreaser and carb cleaner
Label your chemicals if not in the original container . Most important
Eric, why did you put all the nasty tar in your egr valve ? nice!!, now it looks a lot goodr...
When you mix oil with diesel soot it makes some nasty stuff. But a pcv re-route with an oil catch can should keep this from happening again
Do you have to drain the coolant ? Before removing egr
Nope, you can if you want to, but you won’t lose much coolant since you’re working on the top of the motor. You will have some spillage so have some rags ready and plug your turbo inlet. Draining coolant might save a bit of a mess but I think it’s pretty unavoidable as the cooler and lines will likely still hold coolant.
Do Not spill it into the open PVC port!!!!!!!!
How many miles were on this EGR at the time of cleaning. Crazy the anount of filth. Mines at 235k. I think its time.
It was at about 225,000
HOW BAD DOES IT HAVE TO GET FOR THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON?
Pretty bad I guess, I did the same thing to a friend’s truck because he had an egr code. His didn’t seem much worse than dad’s truck, but it must have been to throw a code.
Why EGR valve got clogged? And how often need to clean?
The pcv vents into the intake. Some oil gets past the rings and mixes with the soot in the intake that causes this sludge. A pcv catch can or re-route can minimize the sludge build up.
Was there gaskets that went between the egr elbow and what not
Yes there is a metal gasket between the egr valve and cooler, as well as two gaskets between the valve and the intake tube
@@ThatllDoEngineering when you re installed all of the clean components did you add new gaskets or re use the old ones ?
@@aaronmcgowen3890 I reused the gaskets which is obviously not recommended but I hate spending money I don’t have to and they all appeared in good shape
Thank you and did you get a torque spec for the hex bolts for the egr elbow ?
@@aaronmcgowen3890 I don’t know the torque specs and can’t say for sure if I ever looked for them. I just calibrated my right elbow for “that’ll do” it usually clicks when the bolts are tight. I should probably see a doctor for that.
I have an 08 Duramax that I was told may have a blown head gasket. I heard that these can have a gasket leak and make the engine appear to have a blown head gasket so I was going to do this and see if it fixes my problem. Have you heard of this?
There is exhaust and coolant in the egr cooler. If they are cracked internally you would end up with coolant in you’re intake. But if you have exhaust coming out the oil fill, I don’t believe any problem with the egr can cause that. What head gasket symptoms are you experiencing?
I have a lly duramax with codes p0404 and p0401 as well as p0670 witch is a glow plug module code I’m getting white smoke when I start driving when it’s cold and only sometimes when it warmed up just a puff and then never again until I start it back up any ideas? No head gasket symptoms could it be my egr cracked?
I would think that a cracked egr cooler would cause white smoke by getting coolant in the cylinders. But white smoke is a symptom of a bad injector too. But I’ve seen other LBZ owners say a little puff of smoke on startup is normal. Pulling the intake pipe to get down to the EGR valve is a pretty easy job and you can clean the egr without removing it with brakleen or carb cleaner. How often are you adding coolant?If the cooler is leaking I would think you’d see evidence in the egr. Make sure to clean the MAP sensor while you’re in the, they can cause the P0401 code I believe.
I drove back from vegas about 300 miles and I had to add a little over half gallon so it’s definitely using it. My injector balances seem fine I’m not sure if the smoke could be caused by the bad glow plug module I wasn’t thinking so but I’m going to pull the egr off and check it out get it pressure tested
So figured out my egr cooler is cracked no leaking on my heads at all I just wanna be sure it’s definitely not my head gaskets after get it all back together!
Are there any gaskets need to do this?
I didn’t replace any, that’s up to you if your gaskets look bad.
How many miles on that lbz???
There was about 225,000 on it when I did that video
Did you got a p0101 code?
No codes, just heard these things get filthy inside and doing some preventative maintenance. I had a p0101 and 2563a but that was cured when I got the turbo veins cleaned up and moving again.
Thanks
I don't know what state you're in but if your state does not require you to pass emissions I will always recommend a delete.
I’m in Ca, there are some rural counties that don’t require smog, but not my county.
Can you just unplug the egr and run the truck
Unplugging it shouldn’t keep the engine from running, you’ll just have to add a piece of black tape over your check engine light that will light up.
@@ThatllDoEngineering 😂
Im showing a p0101 on my 05 lly. Cleaned maf checked filter but it it still going into limp mode intermittently on acceleration. I have ordered a new Maf. But i have also read that a stuck open egr valve can throw a p0101 code? Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thank you for your videos brother!!
If I remember right I believe a boost leak can cause P0101 as well. I’m pretty sure that’s the code I got when I forgot to re-connect the charge pipe from the intercooler to the intake (oops). So you might check for boost leaks. I would think a stuck egr could do it and I do remember seeing a bad maf sensor can throw that code.
Not sure where you live, but just delete it. More power, better mpg, engine will last longer. Dang, it's been so long since my engine bay looked like that I almost forgot what it used to look like.
If you live in a less free state, purchase a large ultra sonic cleaner. It'll pay for itself.
it seems to me if enough auto manafacturers would tell the EPA to F O. they wouldnt have to build this unreliable shit.i respect caterpillar telling the EPA to eat shit, & just stopped building problem filled "SMOG" engines.why waste your time building shit? after all thats what china is for.its all they can make.let them build it.
Unless you live in California I’m not sure why you put that crap back in
I’m in Ca
Still don’t need it, block then unblock for smog...then your up pipe blows apart...lol
Ugh ebay it and put a good replacement pipe. That's just unnatural for an engine
Agreed, but I’d have to put it back together every two years for smog, and the truck has plenty of power with it in place.