Huge thanks to this video! I did my delete and had this issue for about 3 weeks, couldn’t figure it out for the life of me, tore it down multiple times reconnected everything. Turns out it was the support brackets not being bolted down. The one thing I didn’t do, not even thinking it would cause an issue, since the intake pipe wouldn’t even budge when we tried moving by hand. Thank you! Love the videos, learned a lot from these. keep it up!
I just watched a couple of your videos on theEGR delete. I have a 06 Duramax and thanks to your videos I’m going to go for it. Thank you for your help. Very cool.
When I first did the egr Delete on my lmm, I bought like a cheapy egr Delete off eBay with the small blue intake tube like you have. The boost tube didn't fit right at all, and I did something that I recommend anybody do with an egr Delete. I went online, and bought a cold sue charge tube from pusher intakes. Believe me, you will not be disappointed! It is huge! 3in diameter all the way and it fits amazing, breathes way better. I was so impressed that I ended up buying the hot side tube as well. If you can afford it, definitely look into it!
So thank goodness I viewed your video. Turns out none of the mounting brackets were correct, had to reform them, anyone who forced the part to fit messes up the y bridge. Causing leaks. So was able to not touch the y bridge, used Permatex right stuff to seal flange and rubber tube on both ends, BTW that rubber tube on the lower air intercooler has two different ends, the one with the ribs is the one that mates to the intercooler, the one with the indented circle in side is for the air tube, need to be sure not to insert it too deep past that indented part, just fits the lips of the air tube. Then permatex everything. On the exhaust flange, use JB Weld 1800F exhaust sealant, apply to both sides of the metal gasket and on part as well as flange. bolt together, let sit for 90 min then do final tightening. Just finished 50 mile test trip, big difference in performance. No hissing, leaks thanks to your info. Had EDU reprogrammed by the gent in NY, he did a perfect job for $250. Total cost $450. And will resell the old parts once I have cleaned them up. :)
Had the same problem after installing my Sinister Diesel delete. Solved the problem with an SDP welded y-bridge and charge pipe never had an issue since.
I have a lly 3500 and when I hit the Highway fucking black smoke everywhere I was shitting my pants thought I fucked something up bad. But there is a little bit of coolant on the egr delete and I’m loosing boost I’m glad you covered all that in this video
Just did a sinister plate block kit today. On my 05 lly. The support bracket did not seem to bolt up in any direction. So I left it be, figured I'll just fabricate a new bracket seeing as how I'm a welder. Anyways! Took it for a drive without the support bracket and made it about a mile down the road before I heard the o ring blow and blowing black smoke as if I had a Cummins lol. Great information, now I know exactly what to look for, and also what not to do! Thank you much!!
I need to do an egr delete on my 2007.5 GMC Sierra 2500HD, my plan is to remove the engine to reinstall in a 2008, while it’s out, I think it’ll be much easier to do while it’s out of the truck. But because of the info you shared & others with this type set up, I want to do it right with the new Y-bridge & no blocker plate. And change the up pipe-many day to just order the LB7 up pipe to fix that issue. I know you get what you pay for, but I can’t drop $2 grand on it, but don’t want the el cheapo that will cause issues down the road. After I tackle this one on the 2007.5- 2008 transplant. I plan to tackle my 2007 GMC Sierra classic, Just like yours here- But I don’t plan on removing engine for this one. It’s currently all factory with 208,000 miles.
Cheers good video here is some additional information. All EGR delete kits require removal of Intake Air Heater assembly and the 2nd sensor, DTC's P0112, P0113 will occur, EGR will throw multiple limp home errors, so ECU update is required. For IAH you could cut intake tube, remove enough to slip in the IAH, the use rubber or high temp silicon sleeves with clamps to reattach the IAH assembly. Nice thing about that is you regain cold weather air intake heater which improves startup of engine. Permatex Right Stuff is best sealant for tube on flange and around the air cooler tube so both are sealed.
What does the ECU update amount to . Do you have to send it somewhere or will a tuner fix that issue .. Mine goes into limp in mode with multiple egr codes.. shuts down to just above idle till you disconnect the batterys long enough to cool down or it resets something ? ect ... then you can drive about 20-40 min and it happens again.. It's only had egr delete and new air intake tube from air cleaner box to intake .. no tuning was added ..
Thanks for this video just figured out I have a huge leak on 09 Lynn it warbles around a lot and lack of power on the truck my mechanic didn’t do it right not sure if he ordered the wrong part but the bolts don’t align properly and there’s no bolts on it I hate new mechanics theses they want the money but they don’t know what they’re doing
I have a half ton Z71 gasser all decked out and I have 6 LED Amber lights in my grill I don't see too many people who have that setup it's really sweet I love your truck and the lights
Sweet! Worst case is I’ll have to buy one right but I gotta try it or I’ll never know.. when I do it I’ll letcha know how it went I’ll send pics if I can figure out how! Thanks for that info!
I have a 2004 Chevy 2500hd with the LLY and I one day on the way home I was kinda mashing on it and it threw 4 codes just out of no where the p0046 turbo/supercharger boost control, solenoid range, performance, p0401 EGR flow, insufficient, p0404 EGR open position, performance and p2563 turbo boost control position sensor circuit range/performance so I took it to the mechanic and I have them throw a new EGR and EGR cooler on the truck that fixed my EGR but I still have the control boost position sensor on is it likely that that sensor failed and is causing my truck to not boost correctly or do you think? It’s the entire turbo. I know you work on these trucks frequently and I want to know your thoughts on the codes that my truck through and what would be good solution to fix it
I have an 04 Duramax LB7. I took out the old fuel filter & installed a new Cat filter with a spacer too. After I got it installed and turned the motor on. The engine light came on. It said water in fuel. I’m sure that’s because of the water separator sensor not being used. I reset the code and the engine light went off. When I went into my house and looked up the code I saw on my programmer DTC P0405. That had nothing to do with the fuel filter. I am asking if you know anything about why this code came up ? Is it or is it not related to what I did. I really like your videos keep up the good work. Thank you for your service to our great country from a Veteran. Any thoughts on this? I’m new to owning a diesel a bit nervous about this. God Bless!
Yep I leaned the hard way:( my egr delete bracket didn’t line up and was super tight so I went with it 4 days later I was showing off and heard a loud bang. Friends said it’s nothing but they didn’t just finish rebuilding the thing. So I knew exactly what it was and still haven’t fixed it but it ain’t leaking just pushed out a bit. What could possibly go wrong!!
This is the problem that is eliminated by replacing or cutting/welding the up pipe right? You made a video that explained a back pressure problem. And now I think I see a comment from the Mr. Williams you mentioned in the other video. I'm NOT confused at all!! :-)
Seriously looking at deleting my 08 lmm duramax need to know what is involved and what kind of pricing i am looking at to do it right. I have also heard that using a blocker plate is not good. Any help is much appreciated!
Thanks for the videos. totally help me get my EGR delete done. I do have a general question. When I did my EGR delete on a 2004 Silverado HD Duramax, I noticed the difference immediately, but now I have oil coming out of my tailpipe. turbo seems to be working fine. I am thinking clogged drain or oil seal went out do to the extra pressure. Any thoughts?
@@RBoysMedia for sure I deleted mine and it eats like I would never expect it to be as rowdy as it got after being deleted it just lights the tires alive
On my 2013 LML Duramax what's all involved in deleting/blocking the EGR? Can I just install those 2 blocker plates on the drivers side of the motor and call it a day or is there more to it? Thank you.
Hey man, I'm in the process of deleting mine on my lbz, it sure has been one hell of a ride between stuff that I had to muscle in to fit and the run to buddies houses to get tools I didn't have lol
I have an lml that I had my mechanic do a egr delete on my 2011 gmc duramax and now I have real loud whistling noise I don't know what to look for any ideas. Thank you
I have a 2012 I just did the EGR delete but I can’t get the service exhaust system and check engine light to go away. And it says I have 98 miles til speed limit is 65. I have the WX live autocal V3
Ya just to let everyone know if there is ever a load hissing sound coming from ur passenger side floor board the turbo up pipe is bad my broke at the ribs on the pipe were the block plate went on and it wasn't that big of a deal but it was at the same time gas mileage went way down and I lost a lot of power but if u go online for 160 dollars u can get a pipe that dose away with the up pipe and it will go straight through from the heads to the back of the engine and that also help with some power faster boost reaction and sounds a lot better but just figured I would throw that in there I have a 07 classic body lbz and she is a beast now
Iv got a good one for you, 2015 lml Duramax new fass pump egr delete, new pressure regulators both and they are clean no metal anywhere in system new fuel pressure sensor, rail pressure over 6000 but will not start have bled system many times cat filter kit install to replace factory.. any suggestions? I'm banging my head against a wall at this point
I have an 06 LBZ with EGR Delete it loosened up and blew the O-rings on the y bridge.4 months later the bellow on the up pipe broke where you where you put the block off plate..had to replace the up pipes.. All good now..
I had the problem of the blue pipe connecting with the boot just beside the filter housing and had to use two clamps because the thing kept coming off with the factory clamp and YES I’m having the up pipe noises and shot as well! Pretty sucky situation to be honest but fixing to jump on it tomorrow
That happened to me was annoying having no power . I ended up rapping the y bridge horn and the turbo mouth piece with zip ties to help keep it still ,since then it's been good cheapest fix
You do alot of these so maybe you can help. I did a straight pipe in my 2015, new downpipe, lb7 up pipe, egr total removal and new crossiver tube with grid heater removed. Downloaded my tune from ridgerunner and now cannot get truck to run. I had it started 1 time but died after 5 seconds and now either just cranks or it clicks like a dead battery but both batteries are at 80%. I am stumped
Overall, with all the different things you've done, have you noticed a decent gain in your mpg's? I have a completely stock LMM right now, and I'll hoping to fully delete mine and probably leave the stock turbo. I know the power increase will be awesome, but I'm wondering what the mpg gains look like.
Get a ERG delete cable from ebay...it closes off ERG if you need to get it service and still under warranty unplug cable then re=plug after...no error codes with cable...
On the lmm I finally resolved the problem by using the factory boost tube and gutting the heater grid. Same as the aftermarket pipe that comes with the kits.
Truck Master yea it's a lot more solid than those flimsy boost tubes that come with the kits. Just kept blowing out the y bridge seal. You can remove the inner parts of the heater grid and then just leave it unplugged it functions just as well as the aftermarket boost tubes.
My y bridge came completely off so I replaced the O rings but now I have 5 codes and one is for my transmission tcm I'm wondering if it put itself into limp mode? Any ideas would help thanks!
I just bought a 2004.5 Chevy duramax 2500hd and the guy who I bought it off upgraded the mouth piece,cold air intake,full exhaust and he gave me a gdp 420016 cooler upgrade kit from Canadian diesel. It’s a egr blocker and I can’t find anything online about this blocker set up. I’m just wondering if anyone knows if this product is worth installing or should I just save a few bucks and do the full egr delete? Also the truck came with a super chips tuner is that something I should be good with when I do get my egr deleted? This is my first diesel truck I’ve ever owned and it’s a bit scary when you think about cost of maintenance on these vehicles. I have a bad vain positioning sensor and the price new is $700. my truck seems to be running good but I’m getting a check engine light because of this sensor. On top of all this Putin got the price of diesel over $2 a litre where I live. I’d like to punch his face in but he won’t meet me in the ball field next to me house. God bless Ukraine 🇺🇦!!!
So the hissing sound.. did it sound like a dry bearing spinning? My lml is making a sound under boost that sounds like my turbo is going but only under boost not idle. I have a savana van so we pulled the doghouse and drove it and the sound comes from the turbo or area. I have no signs it's a turbo other than the noise. No smoke, no power loss, nothing We've pulled everything and inspected all areas that could leak other than the y bridge. Could it be my turbo? I'm lost.
@@cantyoufeelthelove yes I took it out, not really all that difficult to put back in. It is cast aluminum, so you definitely need to understand how to weld aluminum, you can use rod/stick, mig, or Tig.
@@cantyoufeelthelove depending on your mig, spoiled gun ain't too expensive, and gas is pretty cheap, but if you don't plan on doing any other aluminum projects you should just take it to a welding shop
Truck Master Was it at a certain rpm or anything like that? Because I EGR deleted my 06 duramax and I have a little screeching noise around 2,000 rpm or if I step on it
Having a problem installing the wc-fab y bridge on lml, can't seem to press it down far enough to make up the the bolts.im guessing the new o rings are keeping it up, any tips?
I did a install video with the Lml if you want to check that out but you shouldn’t have to force it in I’d rock and wiggle it down if it still doesn’t fit call wcfab
@@TruckMaster yeah I'm actually following your lml video to install, just stuck on the new y-bridge. Currently have it in the freezer to see if it will shrink the orings down some . When I saw you do it it looked like it when with almost no effort.thanks for the quick reply trying to get this done tonight, and thanks for the video making it possible for me to do it. I've called wc-fab several times today and left messages and still no answer
Hallo, love your videos. I am from denmark, and I have suddenly a lot off problems with my 2004 duramax. Codes 201, 204, 206, 207, 670, 2145,. I have changed the injection plugs and still I get tractor mode. Do you have some thought on this
So I just finished installing the full egr delete kit. With the welded y bridge, and I changed out my turbo mouthpiece for a high flow. I'm now getting a p0299 code. I checked for boost leaks. Found a few fixed them and cleared code. But I'm still getting it. I don't know what else to look at to fix this issue. If anyone could help I'd really appreciate it
Have you ever tried an egr code blocker finger stick instead of a tuner? I have an lly and dont really have the dough for a tuner but want this stupid shit off my truck.
Got a y pipe and all the fixing to delete the egr and a efi live tune and I picked it up the other day and now it fills like theres a pause when I give it fuel. What could it be
Hey bud I was wondering if the original y bridge could be welded together to make it 1piece? Rather than spend 700 ! Any advise would help a lot ! Your vids are great and very descriptive so thank you for that!
Hey man, just deleted my lbz and installed a ppe fuel rail fitting. Do you have any idea why my truck has a lope and is making a knocking on the drivers side of the block? Some help would be great, thanks.
+Brandon Boyd not sure the only thing I can think of is if you didn't righted the blocker plate to the mounting bracket so the pipe won't move but I'm sure you did that look up your problem on duramaxforum.com good luck. Also put the stock fuel plug back in and see if it stops the loping
Truck Master I know it doesn't but it still did it. I haven't messed with anything else but it's settling out now. Just idles a little high at start up to warm up I guess I don't know. Still thanks for the info and I can't wait to see what you have in store for your truck!
I install a blocker plate on my lbz and a few days later i got limp mode with p0087 low fuel rail pressure. Could the egr plate cause this or do i have another issue
After installing the same egr kit on my 06 lly the blocker plate caused my pass side up pipe to blow out gave me a heart attack sounded like a knock on the throttle
I'm assuming this is what is going on with mine again had it happen before and couldn't figure it out had to take it to the shop and it ended up being the y bridge and today I started getting a little bit of turbo noise, got a feeling Ima half to take it apart tomorrow evening
+Noah Shipwash sorry to hear about that watch my turbo wheel install so you can get a better look at that bridge or pay the money for a upgrade ybridge good luck brother
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Huge thanks to this video! I did my delete and had this issue for about 3 weeks, couldn’t figure it out for the life of me, tore it down multiple times reconnected everything. Turns out it was the support brackets not being bolted down. The one thing I didn’t do, not even thinking it would cause an issue, since the intake pipe wouldn’t even budge when we tried moving by hand. Thank you! Love the videos, learned a lot from these. keep it up!
Was the oring broken or did you just have to bolt it down
I just watched a couple of your videos on theEGR delete. I have a 06 Duramax and thanks to your videos I’m going to go for it. Thank you for your help. Very cool.
When I first did the egr Delete on my lmm, I bought like a cheapy egr Delete off eBay with the small blue intake tube like you have. The boost tube didn't fit right at all, and I did something that I recommend anybody do with an egr Delete. I went online, and bought a cold sue charge tube from pusher intakes. Believe me, you will not be disappointed! It is huge! 3in diameter all the way and it fits amazing, breathes way better. I was so impressed that I ended up buying the hot side tube as well. If you can afford it, definitely look into it!
So thank goodness I viewed your video. Turns out none of the mounting brackets were correct, had to reform them, anyone who forced the part to fit messes up the y bridge. Causing leaks. So was able to not touch the y bridge, used Permatex right stuff to seal flange and rubber tube on both ends, BTW that rubber tube on the lower air intercooler has two different ends, the one with the ribs is the one that mates to the intercooler, the one with the indented circle in side is for the air tube, need to be sure not to insert it too deep past that indented part, just fits the lips of the air tube. Then permatex everything. On the exhaust flange, use JB Weld 1800F exhaust sealant, apply to both sides of the metal gasket and on part as well as flange. bolt together, let sit for 90 min then do final tightening. Just finished 50 mile test trip, big difference in performance. No hissing, leaks thanks to your info. Had EDU reprogrammed by the gent in NY, he did a perfect job for $250. Total cost $450. And will resell the old parts once I have cleaned them up. :)
Had the same problem after installing my Sinister Diesel delete. Solved the problem with an SDP welded y-bridge and charge pipe never had an issue since.
+Brandon Etscheidt perfect
Video summed up- he had a boost leak.
Thanks
Spoiler alert!
Thanks!
Seriously. Dude took almost 10 min to fuckin spit it out. 😒
You sir are a hero. Keep up the great work!
I have a lly 3500 and when I hit the Highway fucking black smoke everywhere I was shitting my pants thought I fucked something up bad. But there is a little bit of coolant on the egr delete and I’m loosing boost I’m glad you covered all that in this video
Nice D-Max Bro! I’m glad I seen this cuz I have to put mine all back together. I think I’m gonna gasket seal everything.
Just did a sinister plate block kit today. On my 05 lly. The support bracket did not seem to bolt up in any direction. So I left it be, figured I'll just fabricate a new bracket seeing as how I'm a welder. Anyways! Took it for a drive without the support bracket and made it about a mile down the road before I heard the o ring blow and blowing black smoke as if I had a Cummins lol. Great information, now I know exactly what to look for, and also what not to do! Thank you much!!
Thanks fir the info! Look into buying the HSP ybridge kit! Use my coupon code truckmaster but it’s a great kit and you won’t have any worries
Did you have to tune ECM after install, just checking to see if my lly will go in limp mode if I don’t tune right away
I need to do an egr delete on my 2007.5 GMC Sierra 2500HD, my plan is to remove the engine to reinstall in a 2008, while it’s out, I think it’ll be much easier to do while it’s out of the truck.
But because of the info you shared & others with this type set up,
I want to do it right with the new Y-bridge & no blocker plate.
And change the up pipe-many day to just order the LB7 up pipe to fix that issue.
I know you get what you pay for, but I can’t drop $2 grand on it, but don’t want the el cheapo that will cause issues down the road.
After I tackle this one on the 2007.5- 2008 transplant.
I plan to tackle my 2007 GMC Sierra classic,
Just like yours here-
But I don’t plan on removing engine for this one.
It’s currently all factory with 208,000 miles.
Cheers good video here is some additional information. All EGR delete kits require removal of Intake Air Heater assembly and the 2nd sensor, DTC's P0112, P0113 will occur, EGR will throw multiple limp home errors, so ECU update is required. For IAH you could cut intake tube, remove enough to slip in the IAH, the use rubber or high temp silicon sleeves with clamps to reattach the IAH assembly. Nice thing about that is you regain cold weather air intake heater which improves startup of engine. Permatex Right Stuff is best sealant for tube on flange and around the air cooler tube so both are sealed.
What does the ECU update amount to . Do you have to send it somewhere or will a tuner fix that issue .. Mine goes into limp in mode with multiple egr codes.. shuts down to just above idle till you disconnect the batterys long enough to cool down or it resets something ? ect ... then you can drive about 20-40 min and it happens again.. It's only had egr delete and new air intake tube from air cleaner box to intake .. no tuning was added ..
^^ Directed to John Birdlebough
Ive got an lb7 I still stick around till the end of these type of videos tho still very informative I like your truck man!
+Scarface999Hr thanks for the support luckily your in the clear with these emissions crap they put on our trucks nowadays
Love this truck, everything about it is perfect. Would love to one day build one just hard to find a good one without overpaying.
+Ryan Adz your not kidding it's very hard to find a clean one like mine at a reasonable price these days
Thanks for taking the time to respond!!
Thanks for this video just figured out I have a huge leak on 09 Lynn it warbles around a lot and lack of power on the truck my mechanic didn’t do it right not sure if he ordered the wrong part but the bolts don’t align properly and there’s no bolts on it
I hate new mechanics theses they want the money but they don’t know what they’re doing
I have a half ton Z71 gasser all decked out and I have 6 LED Amber lights in my grill I don't see too many people who have that setup it's really sweet I love your truck and the lights
+Kyle Case IH Harvester thanks man sounds like you have a nice setup
Sweet! Worst case is I’ll have to buy one right but I gotta try it or I’ll never know.. when I do it I’ll letcha know how it went I’ll send pics if I can figure out how! Thanks for that info!
This is a old video watch my new Egr explain video I posted it about two weeks ago
I have a 2004 Chevy 2500hd with the LLY and I one day on the way home I was kinda mashing on it and it threw 4 codes just out of no where the p0046 turbo/supercharger boost control, solenoid range, performance, p0401 EGR flow, insufficient, p0404 EGR open position, performance and p2563 turbo boost control position sensor circuit range/performance so I took it to the mechanic and I have them throw a new EGR and EGR cooler on the truck that fixed my EGR but I still have the control boost position sensor on is it likely that that sensor failed and is causing my truck to not boost correctly or do you think? It’s the entire turbo. I know you work on these trucks frequently and I want to know your thoughts on the codes that my truck through and what would be good solution to fix it
I have an 04 Duramax LB7. I took out the old fuel filter & installed a new Cat filter with a spacer too. After I got it installed and turned the motor on. The engine light came on. It said water in fuel. I’m sure that’s because of the water separator sensor not being used. I reset the code and the engine light went off. When I went into my house and looked up the code I saw on my programmer DTC P0405. That had nothing to do with the fuel filter. I am asking if you know anything about why this code came up ? Is it or is it not related to what I did. I really like your videos keep up the good work. Thank you for your service to our great country from a Veteran. Any thoughts on this? I’m new to owning a diesel a bit nervous about this.
God Bless!
Yep I leaned the hard way:( my egr delete bracket didn’t line up and was super tight so I went with it 4 days later I was showing off and heard a loud bang. Friends said it’s nothing but they didn’t just finish rebuilding the thing. So I knew exactly what it was and still haven’t fixed it but it ain’t leaking just pushed out a bit. What could possibly go wrong!!
This is the problem that is eliminated by replacing or cutting/welding the up pipe right? You made a video that explained a back pressure problem. And now I think I see a comment from the Mr. Williams you mentioned in the other video. I'm NOT confused at all!! :-)
Seriously looking at deleting my 08 lmm duramax need to know what is involved and what kind of pricing i am looking at to do it right. I have also heard that using a blocker plate is not good. Any help is much appreciated!
Thanks for the videos. totally help me get my EGR delete done. I do have a general question. When I did my EGR delete on a 2004 Silverado HD Duramax, I noticed the difference immediately, but now I have oil coming out of my tailpipe. turbo seems to be working fine. I am thinking clogged drain or oil seal went out do to the extra pressure. Any thoughts?
Ik it’s late but wat does the egr delete do on a lly
@@bdjunks2496 same thing it does on any other Duramax. He literally said what it does in the video
@@manolovallejo1429 he didn’t wjT did he say
@@bdjunks2496 turns your durabeast into a nfl athlete machine. It will let it live probably an extra 400k miles.
@@RBoysMedia for sure I deleted mine and it eats like I would never expect it to be as rowdy as it got after being deleted it just lights the tires alive
On my 2013 LML Duramax what's all involved in deleting/blocking the EGR? Can I just install those 2 blocker plates on the drivers side of the motor and call it a day or is there more to it?
Thank you.
Hey man, I'm in the process of deleting mine on my lbz, it sure has been one hell of a ride between stuff that I had to muscle in to fit and the run to buddies houses to get tools I didn't have lol
+Brandon Boyd i felt your pain man good luck
Thanks man. Hey when you drilled your fuel rail fittings out did you do them on both sides?
I have an lml that I had my mechanic do a egr delete on my 2011 gmc duramax and now I have real loud whistling noise I don't know what to look for any ideas. Thank you
You have one nice truck brother. Thank you for your help.
I have a 2012 I just did the EGR delete but I can’t get the service exhaust system and check engine light to go away. And it says I have 98 miles til speed limit is 65. I have the WX live autocal V3
Ya just to let everyone know if there is ever a load hissing sound coming from ur passenger side floor board the turbo up pipe is bad my broke at the ribs on the pipe were the block plate went on and it wasn't that big of a deal but it was at the same time gas mileage went way down and I lost a lot of power but if u go online for 160 dollars u can get a pipe that dose away with the up pipe and it will go straight through from the heads to the back of the engine and that also help with some power faster boost reaction and sounds a lot better but just figured I would throw that in there I have a 07 classic body lbz and she is a beast now
+Ty Williams great write up!
Iv got a good one for you, 2015 lml Duramax new fass pump egr delete, new pressure regulators both and they are clean no metal anywhere in system new fuel pressure sensor, rail pressure over 6000 but will not start have bled system many times cat filter kit install to replace factory.. any suggestions? I'm banging my head against a wall at this point
Hey @truckmaster what about the codes I’ll be getting for unplugging my egr
Did yours go into limp mode after deleting without tune? Or was it just a check engine light?
It’s just a check engine
I have an 06 LBZ with EGR Delete it loosened up and blew the O-rings on the y bridge.4 months later the bellow on the up pipe broke where you where you put the block off plate..had to replace the up pipes.. All good now..
+Richard Mcmullen at least you worked through but but I'm sure it wasn't easy to fix . Glad it worked out
I had the problem of the blue pipe connecting with the boot just beside the filter housing and had to use two clamps because the thing kept coming off with the factory clamp and YES I’m having the up pipe noises and shot as well! Pretty sucky situation to be honest but fixing to jump on it tomorrow
Did you find a delete tune?
That happened to me was annoying having no power . I ended up rapping the y bridge horn and the turbo mouth piece with zip ties to help keep it still ,since then it's been good cheapest fix
+Vidal Martinez sounds like something I would do
Truck Master 🍻
I deleted mine and I couldn’t get my LLY y bridge to stay seated, so I bought a wc fab one piece ybridge kit
You do alot of these so maybe you can help. I did a straight pipe in my 2015, new downpipe, lb7 up pipe, egr total removal and new crossiver tube with grid heater removed. Downloaded my tune from ridgerunner and now cannot get truck to run. I had it started 1 time but died after 5 seconds and now either just cranks or it clicks like a dead battery but both batteries are at 80%. I am stumped
Do they have a Y bridge also for An LLY and if so where can I find it
Overall, with all the different things you've done, have you noticed a decent gain in your mpg's? I have a completely stock LMM right now, and I'll hoping to fully delete mine and probably leave the stock turbo. I know the power increase will be awesome, but I'm wondering what the mpg gains look like.
+atxvr4 I noticed a 1 mpg gain but that’s worth it to me
atxvr4 hey, bro. 09 lmm deleted, notice average 5 mpg better. But on highway trips I went from 14.8 to 23.4. I also have 315/70/17s.👌
My lmm gets 20mpg hwy and 12 city.
Great video!
Any ideas for a tune that will work when the EGR has been removed? Engine light stays on since then.
Get a ERG delete cable from ebay...it closes off ERG if you need to get it service and still under warranty unplug cable then re=plug after...no error codes with cable...
So it just keeps it closed?
On the lmm I finally resolved the problem by using the factory boost tube and gutting the heater grid. Same as the aftermarket pipe that comes with the kits.
+austinr09 that is interesting that it worked but awesome
Truck Master yea it's a lot more solid than those flimsy boost tubes that come with the kits. Just kept blowing out the y bridge seal. You can remove the inner parts of the heater grid and then just leave it unplugged it functions just as well as the aftermarket boost tubes.
+austinr09 that's a great write up thanks for the input
i’ve had pedal position sensor issues after doing this and replaced everything and nothing works
My y bridge came completely off so I replaced the O rings but now I have 5 codes and one is for my transmission tcm I'm wondering if it put itself into limp mode? Any ideas would help thanks!
I just bought a 2004.5 Chevy duramax 2500hd and the guy who I bought it off upgraded the mouth piece,cold air intake,full exhaust and he gave me a gdp 420016 cooler upgrade kit from Canadian diesel. It’s a egr blocker and I can’t find anything online about this blocker set up. I’m just wondering if anyone knows if this product is worth installing or should I just save a few bucks and do the full egr delete? Also the truck came with a super chips tuner is that something I should be good with when I do get my egr deleted? This is my first diesel truck I’ve ever owned and it’s a bit scary when you think about cost of maintenance on these vehicles. I have a bad vain positioning sensor and the price new is $700. my truck seems to be running good but I’m getting a check engine light because of this sensor. On top of all this Putin got the price of diesel over $2 a litre where I live. I’d like to punch his face in but he won’t meet me in the ball field next to me house. God bless Ukraine 🇺🇦!!!
Do you know where I could find a deleted tune?
@@RBoysMedia I do not.
do I have to delete egr if I put exhaust and intake and downpipe on. Or will it be fine without the delete
Just did an erg delete on my lly, now I have white smoke coming out of the exhaust...help
What was it?
So the hissing sound.. did it sound like a dry bearing spinning? My lml is making a sound under boost that sounds like my turbo is going but only under boost not idle. I have a savana van so we pulled the doghouse and drove it and the sound comes from the turbo or area. I have no signs it's a turbo other than the noise. No smoke, no power loss, nothing
We've pulled everything and inspected all areas that could leak other than the y bridge. Could it be my turbo?
I'm lost.
Did you ever make a video on how to tuck away that wiring harness? Mine is still loose and sloppy looking.
+Trevor Simko I really should have made a video on that but I zip tied them back
Is there a rubber seal from the bottom elbow part to the turbo? On the turbo end?
so after you tighten it down you dident have any issue with it?
After removing the EGR do I need reset ECM
Raymundo Iglesias that’s my question
I made the mistake not to
I just went ahead and welded my Y bridge together. 05 LLY
did you take it out to weld it? was it a nightmare to get back in after?
@@cantyoufeelthelove yes I took it out, not really all that difficult to put back in.
It is cast aluminum, so you definitely need to understand how to weld aluminum, you can use rod/stick, mig, or Tig.
@@thanehelton6295 thanks brother! Yea i dont have the correct stuff for aluminum. Only mig welder but need a spool gun
@@cantyoufeelthelove depending on your mig, spoiled gun ain't too expensive, and gas is pretty cheap, but if you don't plan on doing any other aluminum projects you should just take it to a welding shop
Yup never go cheap they did it to mine and my egr was fucked
I learned something
+Rodney DeWalt that's good
@@TruckMaster is the lly wgr blocker the same as lb7
Egr
Did you say 2005 LBZ?
AFTER THE EGR KIT DO I NEED A EGR DELETE TUNER FOR THE COMPUTER
I solved that problem with my lmm by installing a high flow stainless steel y bridge
+Cody Cozad it's the way to go
it definitely made a difference
Cody Cozad did you follow his install video for your lmm? I'm doing mine Tuesday and wondering if it's close to the same
Late on the reply but mines an lmm it's all the same for the most part
On the cold side pipe there’s a sensor on top what’s that?
Did you have to tune your truck after the EGR delete?
If in cali yes
How would I go about re tuning my LMM after the EGR delete?
Find a delete tuner lol that’s where I’m at.
Time to update those mirrors brotha!!!
+Inspire_Greatness74 I will next month lol
I have a question? So when you heard that weird noise coming out of your engine was it doing it while you were driving or in park?
+Isaiah Salazar driving
Truck Master Was it at a certain rpm or anything like that? Because I EGR deleted my 06 duramax and I have a little screeching noise around 2,000 rpm or if I step on it
Having a problem installing the wc-fab y bridge on lml, can't seem to press it down far enough to make up the the bolts.im guessing the new o rings are keeping it up, any tips?
I did a install video with the Lml if you want to check that out but you shouldn’t have to force it in I’d rock and wiggle it down if it still doesn’t fit call wcfab
@@TruckMaster yeah I'm actually following your lml video to install, just stuck on the new y-bridge. Currently have it in the freezer to see if it will shrink the orings down some . When I saw you do it it looked like it when with almost no effort.thanks for the quick reply trying to get this done tonight, and thanks for the video making it possible for me to do it. I've called wc-fab several times today and left messages and still no answer
Say truck master what about lb7 pvc rerouting and hello..🤠
What if you can hear it coming from the passenger fender
Do I have to tune my truck to do an egr delete?
Yes
Hallo, love your videos. I am from denmark, and I have suddenly a lot off problems with my 2004 duramax. Codes 201, 204, 206, 207, 670, 2145,. I have changed the injection plugs and still I get tractor mode. Do you have some thought on this
What did you do with your intake heater
Does the bridge strap for the y bridge help on lly
Thanks
What mpg are you getting after the lift and mods?
+inventoryking 22 mpg
Truck Master - that's awesome. I just got a 2011 lml. It's stock. And I need to delete and tune. I have been watching your vids.
+inventoryking thanks for the support and good luck to you
Do you get any DTC codes after doing the delete or does the ECM need to be reprogrammed?
+Trevor Campbell yes but after I got efi live the code went away
So I just finished installing the full egr delete kit. With the welded y bridge, and I changed out my turbo mouthpiece for a high flow. I'm now getting a p0299 code. I checked for boost leaks. Found a few fixed them and cleared code. But I'm still getting it. I don't know what else to look at to fix this issue. If anyone could help I'd really appreciate it
Do you know where I could find a delete tuner :) I can prove myself. I just got a new truck and found out all this epa crap
I’m gonna need you guys to calm down mOK 😆🤣hahahhahahahjahahahahaha
What is the name of the blue pipe called?
Is the lly delete the same fit as lb7?
Have you ever tried an egr code blocker finger stick instead of a tuner? I have an lly and dont really have the dough for a tuner but want this stupid shit off my truck.
Was a tune necessary after install
Yes
What kind of tuner
Got a y pipe and all the fixing to delete the egr and a efi live tune and I picked it up the other day and now it fills like theres a pause when I give it fuel. What could it be
Turbo lag
Hey bud I was wondering if the original y bridge could be welded together to make it 1piece? Rather than spend 700 ! Any advise would help a lot ! Your vids are great and very descriptive so thank you for that!
Definitely! Weld it up man people do it a lot
Yes it is weldable
05 LLY
I need help on my 05 durmax poo45 code when I get in it lil bit shift throws u in steering wheel
Is it the same EGR delete for the lly or does it change?
+Dirtymax C-los it's a different shape but it's in the same area of the engine
Just want to add I live in Alaska and this truck is completely off road and a farm truck
Hey man, just deleted my lbz and installed a ppe fuel rail fitting. Do you have any idea why my truck has a lope and is making a knocking on the drivers side of the block? Some help would be great, thanks.
And shifting much harder than usual as well
+Brandon Boyd not sure the only thing I can think of is if you didn't righted the blocker plate to the mounting bracket so the pipe won't move but I'm sure you did that look up your problem on duramaxforum.com good luck. Also put the stock fuel plug back in and see if it stops the loping
+Brandon Boyd it makes zero sense to me why you would have this issues after you install the Egr kit
Truck Master I know it doesn't but it still did it. I haven't messed with anything else but it's settling out now. Just idles a little high at start up to warm up I guess I don't know. Still thanks for the info and I can't wait to see what you have in store for your truck!
how bad is the Exhaust fume smell after the EGR delete?
I can’t even smell it
It smells good!
just bend the tabs on the pipe so it pushes the mouth piece into the y bridge
DONT YOU HAVE TO RE-TUNE THE TRUCK AFTER ,OR NOT?
+desertdog374 yes! You retune after
Hey buddy can I ask you ask you a question
Guess not
@@723kwrenn damn
I have 07 2500 just did egr complete delete now truck wont start any help is appreciated
It's the lmm 6.6
You probably have a wiring harness unplugged
Thanks for the response I had a brain fart changed fuel lines n didn't bleed the lines after so has air in the line so no fuel
I install a blocker plate on my lbz and a few days later i got limp mode with p0087 low fuel rail pressure. Could the egr plate cause this or do i have another issue
Check your fuel collapse lines or could be cp3 or leaking injectors or fprv.
Get a y bridge asap
After installing the same egr kit on my 06 lly the blocker plate caused my pass side up pipe to blow out gave me a heart attack sounded like a knock on the throttle
+Josh Bater that would freak me out as well
04.-05 are all LLY it’s the early 06 that is vin as a LLY but has LBZ engine.
Only if it has the letter D in the VIN is a lbz
Mine started leaking and next thing you know I'm buying new head gaskets
It’s so hard to find an lbz that hasn’t had a high schooler take hold of it 😑
Got mine out the shop. 50 miles in an I’m getting that noise right now. Called the guy. Said to check blocker plate... 15 lml duramax
I'm assuming this is what is going on with mine again had it happen before and couldn't figure it out had to take it to the shop and it ended up being the y bridge and today I started getting a little bit of turbo noise, got a feeling Ima half to take it apart tomorrow evening
+Noah Shipwash sorry to hear about that watch my turbo wheel install so you can get a better look at that bridge or pay the money for a upgrade ybridge good luck brother
Do the 2019 duramax engines have egr valves in them
Yes
Yes.. and dpf... and def
I did the delete with efi live, then about 6 months later truck went into limp mode and threw codes for egr. Anyone with an idea of what it could be.
What about the egr plug
Egr is like eating your own shit for an engine
damn best way to put it, 😆 pin this comment