I fought with my downpipe for way too long, I learned words that soap won't fix. With no luck I spent 10 minutes removing cab bolts on passenger side and jacked up cab, down pipe fell out. Don't cuss, don't bleed, don't waste time. Jack the cab before it jacks you!
Thank you so much for this video. I used this one and your DPF delete video deleting my 2012 this weekend. I got lucky and after pulling the heat shield my down pipe came right out like nothin. Had one hell of a time getting the bolts outta the turbo but managed not breaking any. Thanks again for what you do on here man.
Just to clearafly I worked as a mechanic in the oil fields in Canada when I helped do this delete which I understand isn't illegal there. Seen a couple of mud boxing diesels that had the whole delete and programs done but wasn't much left ot the cabs .easy to get to most everything which is good because of the broken crankshaft or piston breaks.
Thanks for being honest about how much of a pain it is to do this job. I’ve done it and know exactly what your talking about. A lot of the prior videos I’ve seen don’t show the aggravating parts of this.
Absolutely, everyone online talks about the pros and cons of deleting it without even mentioning the hassle of the parts or the price of getting it done at a shop which in-itself is a pain to find one that will do it
just a quick tip for future down and up pipe removing! remove the two cross member nuts for the transmission and loosen the two engine mount bolts then jack up the rear at the transfer case. it will create a few more inches of space between the firewall and the engine and all three will be easier to remove and save you alot of cursing and blood.
Sounds like a great idea.... just wish I understood exactly how to do that. I'm just getting into diesel trucks and costs too much for a mechanic so I'm learning how to work on this thing 😂
HOLY COW! THIS VIDEO CHANGED MY TRUCKS (LUCILLE) LIFE. THE WHOLE PROJECT TOOK ME 2 1/2 DAYS BUT, IT WAS WORTH IT. THANK YOU AGAIN FOR THE STEP BY STEP.
How did you get that lower passenger side nut off the passenger side up pipe? Literally only thing holding me back right now. I have sprayed so much kroil the past week.
Thanks for the great video very informative and changed my mind on doing it myself my patience level will not handle stuff like a broken turbo bolt and removal. You ,however did an excellent job defining the difficulty involved , I subscribed because of the terrific job you did. Thanks again.
Thank you so much for this video. It was an absolute life saver. I must have referred to it 30 or 40 times. You're right. This job sucked. My hands are so bloody and bruised!
I pulled mine last night. It was a nightmare! I thought I pulled the 3 bolts on heat shield but missed one. I fought it for 3hrs and finally was able to get it out with the heat shield still on. WHAT A MESS! LOL
@@TonyPreckwrinkle screw that mess. I'm never doing it again. I can't stop working on something until it's done so I was out pulling that POS till 1130pm last night lol.
Ratchet strap is what got the Lml down pipe, wiggled and ratcheted at the same time and it was easier than I thought. I pulled the heat shield out first.
I've been referencing your video as I'm doing this on my 15 lml. Currently stuck at that metal coolant pipe, just having a fight getting it out. Most of my up pipe bolts are out other than the ones you can't reach. Excellent video and references yeah this job sucks lol
If you got another person hitting the heat shield from the top forcing it down with a pry bar and some pulling down under with vise grips it comes out quick, just thought I’d pass the info for the next guy doing this
@@MrLazlott I went with cp3 10 mil I bought from a guy locally in Miami, he sold his truck so I bought the pump, injectors, 64mil turbo from him for a good price
@@MrLazlott ppl talk down the cp4 pump but with a lift pump behind it you're ok, ive seen cp3 pump fail just as well as the cp4, I think you'll be ok with the cp4 and lift pump, ive seen allot of cp4 pump still running @ over 600k miles trust me
Guys one of the mistakes is to loosen the 11mm nut on the down pipe clamp before getting both shields off , start with the small heat shield it will come seay from the side then the bigger one u have to pull it from behind too and wiggle it a little bit but it comes out easy 2, after that loosen the 11mm nut for the down pipe turbo clamp and it slides easy down
I j helped my mechanic with an EGR delete on my 2015 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali DRW. I did not have my tuner yet. After completion, my air conditioning suddenly doesn’t blow cold ( 2 month old compressor is not engaging.) Mechanic said I needed my tuner install and it should work . I ordered the tuner and gave the info for mods I was planning to go ( I have all parts ) EGR complete Dpf delete Sensors disconnected Cold air intake installed Fass lift pump Not installed yet 5 in flow pro straight pipe not installed i Down pipes Not installed Up pipes Not installed EFI live tuner arrived I installed the switch and flashed Seems to run fine , no engine light But my driver window doesn’t work Back up camera doesn’t work Air conditioning compressor still not engaging Bummed out the screws for continuing any more work until I get this right but I’m not driving the truck. Put a snap on scanner on it and it had no codes.
Never had those issues before personally, but YOU CANT RUN A DELETE TUNE WITHOUT REMOVING FACTORY EXHAUST! The delete tune deactivates all the regen/burn process, so your exhaust is going to plug up and you can seriously damage your engine!
WOW…I’ve been in performance industry for over 60 yrs..this job I would not even consider ..is it possible it would be easier to remove the engine? A very impressive job…you are very talented.. Just how much does a day of torture cost
Thank you sir for this helpful video.That metal coolant tube is holding me up.Wasnt sure how to go forward with it in the way of that one up pipe bolt to turbo.2 bolts are all that's left of 9.Ill be so glad to finish this install.Ready to work on something else.I drive 18 whlr x country and limited time at home.Ive been on new up pipes install for 5 months now,and still in removal stage.Not started putting new back on.
I feel your pain, also a trucker and not much time to devote to getting my truck done either. Also need to replace my CP4 with a CP3 and all the injectors / rails. Can't wait.
Amazing Video!!!! I did mine and boy… it was not a fun job. But the smiles after it’s all done and my tools are clean and put away… I’m smiling from ear to ear! QUESTION- on the thermostat hose… the hose that you ran from the thermostats over to the fuel filter area…. The clamp that you used to fasten down the hose… do or have you ever had problems with the hose blowing off due to pressure? Is one clamp enough to fasten down the hose ???
@darkirondiesel thanks for the video. Did you ever figure out which of the two sensors on the top of the downpipe are actually required? Also, is the third "sensor" down on the lower end of the downpipe not just the 9th injector? I've read that you can just plug that. Thanks again for the instructional video.
My truck is EGR/DPF deleted but want to make sure it's more reliable so I have purchased the following: cp3 conversion (no - tuning required, no 9th injector) new up pipe 3" down pipe (no bungs) egr delete kit Fass Lift Pump The EGT and O2 sensor for the down pipe can be discarded correct? I know I'm looking at a 15 hour install, just waiting until duck season is over to begin the fun. The truck is off road use only.
AWESOME ! Video! Thank you for helping everyone. Hmm I bought a 2011, with the EGR delete already done. I'm having a difficult time trying to find the coolant hose, from the engine to the cab. Its leaking at the back of the motor. Any thoughts, ideas would so much appreciated, Thank You !!!
I installed the kit from the diesel dudes ( down pipe , y pipe, coolant hoses & blocker plate ) Mu temp gauge hangs at 210 them jumps to like 211/12 then drops to 208/09 , is that just the thermostat cycling due to more flow ? Replaced the thermostats , temp gauge , coolant flush & still the same
Broo u make it look so easy!!!! I wanna try doing it,,, ime mechanicly inclined but i know myselfe and i know wrenches will start flying… whats the going rate in a job like this if i pay for parts??? I might just have somebody do it for me.. i can do dpf delete,, exhuast install and lift pump.. ime scared of doing this though
That sensor on the middle of the down pipe is the 9th injector, could could delete it if you want. The 9th injector will be turned off when you tune the truck.
Did u get a chance to try and jacking up the cab? I’m struggling with my down pipe and can’t find a way to get at the 3rd bolt on the heat shield. And feel like I’m gonna break something when I try and ratchet strap it down. Any tips??
so this will probably sound a little sideways but i used to wrench for a living... this job would seem a lot easier if you pulled the radiator and exhaust pipes and the trans and motor mounts and slid the motor/ trans forward... what say you??
Thats how mine is done. Tuned and unplugged with blocker plate. After watching this, i don't see the need to get in there and go to torture fest because the LML runs fine like this. Other than lose a little weight but thats a non factor on a 9000lb truck
@@nickolasgiampietro3164 Since that time i've had the items mentioned removed. So i got to experience it running with all the EGR parts, blocked and totally deleted. Honestly, i don't feel much variation but then again with a straight 4" exhaust the whole time there was never much resistance to spool up so i might defer this question.
It helped me. It helped me decide not to try this. Ridiculous. When I deleted my LML, instructions included disconnecting 3 connections for egr delete. Do you know what the difference is between that and what you did ( besides physically removing egr)?
Haha ya they aren’t fun. When you delete the dpf and install a delete tune on a truck you have to unplug the throttle valve and the 2 egr plugs on an LML. Basically it deactivates the egr system. The valves should remain shut therefor not letting exhaust back into the engine. Guys will physically remove the egr system for a few reasons. One is for peace of mind, if you remove the egr system and block it all off then you KNOW 100% that there will be no exhaust going back into the engine. Second reason is that sometimes the egr coolers crack so you start burning coolant or pressuring up your coolant system. And the third is just for looks, it really cleans an engine up when you remove it.
You just did an "electrical" (or virtual) delete. He did a physical delete in this video. Basically you just disabled the components, and he removed them.
I am doing a EZ Lynk, EGR Delete with up pipe, down pipe, and 5” exhaust. Do I need to delete DPF, DEF, and tune before my EGR removal? Or can I do it all afterwards?
Question please. If I delete the egr my self and I have a hand held tuner like a mini maxx can I tune it myself or do I have to have a shop dyno tune it?
The tuner already has the dpf, def, and egr systems programmed out of your ecm. You should unplug the sensors so it won’t throw your truck off and can cause it to run weird. If you start adding more performance parts you can go back to retune and get the most out of your parts (I believe). As of deleting the egr physically you shouldn’t need a retune.
ever figure out which sensor has to go back into the new downpipe? you said mayb discard the one and flipped it back, and then mayb the other side one goes back in,,,ever figure out which ones which ?
I’m doing the def and egr delete on a 2011 duramax. It is already limited to 55mph because of def problems. I did the def tank and exhaust removal and also did the tuning with a Mini maxx tuner. Do you think it will still be stuck in limp mode after I’m done.
Nope as long as the minimax had the “emissions removed” setting and you selected it you will be fine. You can just get rid of the exhaust and unplug the egr, you don’t have to physically remove egr if you don’t want to.
Same exact thing happened to my 15 lml. It’s throwing codes for a bad egr valve. I ordered a flo pro exhaust and a tune so hopefully it clears the code and let’s me go fast again.
So waiting on my EGR Delete kit. Can I tune it and delete def and strait pipe it, and just unplug the Egr for right now? Or do I have to do it all at once?? Thanks for your help
On the intake side block plate you used the factory gaskets mine has orings do I need to use the factory gaskets as well or is it a good idea to I'm not sure if yours had orings
I’ve got a question about the small coolant line that you didn’t mention what you do with. It comes off the cooler and Ts into another line that you didn’t cut toward the passenger side. Any help would be appreciated
If you do this at your house don't get in a hurry and I planned 3 days.....1 day was just getting all the bullshit off and out of the way. And the other 2 was taking my time to unfortunately the exhaust and turbo bolts....or you'll end up taking more time to fix broken bolts
Awesome job 👍🏽 I just installed a PPE downpipe and that was a pain in the ass I will take my truck to a shop for the EGR delete I don't want to take the new PPE downpipe out It was already a pain in the butt to get it in there
Well I ended up buying a down pipe. I don’t see how the EGR comes off east without doing the down pipe lol! Thanks For the video! Def helped me. My trucks been in my Garage for a week! Third time I watched this video I realized that tube had another bolt holding it in to remove! That one almost broke me before I saw that!!!
@@darkirondiesel thanks! By far the worst thing I have done on a truck or car. I’d rather put long tube headers on a GT500 without dropping the K meme er then do this again!
I have a 2015 lml, had def problems, it’s now deleted with efi live, but now it keeps giving P249d code and it won’t clear. Confirmed with tuner all settings are correct in program. Any ideas? Is there another way to clear?
Will a bad Def modulator cause the truck to throw a EGR bypass valve stuck at ten degrees open code and send a check emissions now alert to the dashboard with a speed limiter warning attached to it?
Kyle, while trying to install my 2018 6.7 Cummins tune with an AutoCal, I get an error message on the AutoCal that says ignition is switched off. IT WASN'T OFF. Have you ever had this error $0549 before? If so how did you work around it?
I haven’t seen it before unless I forget to turn the ignition on. My advice is contact the company that wrote the tunes. Also, make sure you are using the 2018+ Cummins bypass cable.
I have a 2013 durimax. Ive ordered the 4inch pipe with the EFI tuner. The kit also includes the EGR delete kit. It comes with the uppipe but they say I dont have to replace the downpipe. Do I need to replace the downpipe?
You don’t have to but honestly it’s such a pain in the ass to take out and even worse to put back in so my advice is if you got the factory one out get rid of it and replace it with a better flowing 3” downpipe. Also goes in way easier
@@darkirondiesel thanks ordered one. And one more question. Im seeing everyone deleting the 9th injector, is that something I should do as well? I'm doing this all at once. Just waiting on the downpipe to come in.
What I got... but havent installed yet is a 4 inch straight pipe, EFI Tuner with the "on the fly" switch, EGR delete kit, uppipe and downpipe. As I said, doing everything at one time.
How do you know if your truck been deleted. I just got a 2015 3500hd denali duramax diesel. My first diesel. Looking under the hood I found 2 sensors unhooked 1 on the passenger side near the firewall 1 driver side middle of motor they said there 3 sensors but only saw 2
Look at the exhaust, if there’s a couple big filters and sensors plugged in then it’s probably not deleted. If it just looks like a normal exhaust with no big filters or sensors it’s deleted.
Every bolt has a torque spec based on bolt size and thread pitch, but personally I don’t use a torque wrench on this job. Just get everything snuggled up nice and you should be ok. If you are worried you could look up the torque specs.
FULL DELETE KIT HERE shrsl.com/4ke0v
SHOP MERCH HERE darkirondiesel.com
How in the heck do
You remove the passenger side egr? I’m about ready to torch my LML
ruclips.net/user/shorts3OrxwwPM4NU?si=RXn2l743-CgNQeIe
Let's delete the EPA
I fought with my downpipe for way too long, I learned words that soap won't fix. With no luck I spent 10 minutes removing cab bolts on passenger side and jacked up cab, down pipe fell out. Don't cuss, don't bleed, don't waste time. Jack the cab before it jacks you!
Yes I will try this next time!
@@darkirondiesel Also, Topside Creeper :)
This saved me from cussing and learning new words
I cut mine out lol
Thank you so much for this video. I used this one and your DPF delete video deleting my 2012 this weekend. I got lucky and after pulling the heat shield my down pipe came right out like nothin. Had one hell of a time getting the bolts outta the turbo but managed not breaking any. Thanks again for what you do on here man.
Didn't do mine. Staying stock but have done a few. Having host I lift the cab. Actually saves time and easier getting to everything
Just to clearafly I worked as a mechanic in the oil fields in Canada when I helped do this delete which I understand isn't illegal there. Seen a couple of mud boxing diesels that had the whole delete and programs done but wasn't much left ot the cabs .easy to get to most everything which is good because of the broken crankshaft or piston breaks.
Thanks for being honest about how much of a pain it is to do this job. I’ve done it and know exactly what your talking about. A lot of the prior videos I’ve seen don’t show the aggravating parts of this.
Absolutely, everyone online talks about the pros and cons of deleting it without even mentioning the hassle of the parts or the price of getting it done at a shop which in-itself is a pain to find one that will do it
just a quick tip for future down and up pipe removing! remove the two cross member nuts for the transmission and loosen the two engine mount bolts then jack up the rear at the transfer case. it will create a few more inches of space between the firewall and the engine and all three will be easier to remove and save you alot of cursing and blood.
Thank you sir
Sounds like a great idea.... just wish I understood exactly how to do that. I'm just getting into diesel trucks and costs too much for a mechanic so I'm learning how to work on this thing 😂
HOLY COW! THIS VIDEO CHANGED MY TRUCKS (LUCILLE) LIFE. THE WHOLE PROJECT TOOK ME 2 1/2 DAYS BUT, IT WAS WORTH IT. THANK YOU AGAIN FOR THE STEP BY STEP.
How did you get that lower passenger side nut off the passenger side up pipe? Literally only thing holding me back right now. I have sprayed so much kroil the past week.
This video was very helpful and saved me a ton of time by you saying what size socket for those hard to reach bolts. Thanks! 👍
Thanks for the great video very informative and changed my mind on doing it myself my patience level will not handle stuff like a broken turbo bolt and removal. You ,however did an excellent job defining the difficulty involved , I subscribed because of the terrific job you did.
Thanks again.
Thanks man. I don’t even do these anymore, that’s how much I hate them haha
Lol same
Thank you so much for this video. It was an absolute life saver. I must have referred to it 30 or 40 times. You're right. This job sucked. My hands are so bloody and bruised!
I pulled my down pipe once on my LML, ill never do it again. Great Video.
Hahah they are awful
I pulled mine last night. It was a nightmare! I thought I pulled the 3 bolts on heat shield but missed one. I fought it for 3hrs and finally was able to get it out with the heat shield still on. WHAT A MESS! LOL
@@TheJoe111599 wait till you have to do a starter. Only way I found was the remove the downpipe again. I paid the dealer this time.
@@TonyPreckwrinkle screw that mess. I'm never doing it again. I can't stop working on something until it's done so I was out pulling that POS till 1130pm last night lol.
Ratchet strap is what got the Lml down pipe, wiggled and ratcheted at the same time and it was easier than I thought. I pulled the heat shield out first.
If you haven’t already, do a video on the EFI Live tuning. Really helps. Thanks.
I've been referencing your video as I'm doing this on my 15 lml. Currently stuck at that metal coolant pipe, just having a fight getting it out. Most of my up pipe bolts are out other than the ones you can't reach. Excellent video and references yeah this job sucks lol
If you got another person hitting the heat shield from the top forcing it down with a pry bar and some pulling down under with vise grips it comes out quick, just thought I’d pass the info for the next guy doing this
great video. I believe the sensor in down pipe is the 9th injector for regen.
Yes correct
Is it hurting the truck life at all or is there any negatives to unplugging and blocking off the EGR without removing it fully?
That look like a mission😳 I'm replacing my cp4 as we speak and I m thinking about deleting since I'm already in there, what a pita
I’m also in the same boat as we speak and I wanna pull my hair out 😂
What are you replacing your CP4 with and where did you get it from, if you don't mind me asking?
@@MrLazlott I went with cp3 10 mil I bought from a guy locally in Miami, he sold his truck so I bought the pump, injectors, 64mil turbo from him for a good price
@@johnsondml I've been torn on the CP3 or CP4K. I have a lift pump, but I know the 4 is a time bomb waiting.
@@MrLazlott ppl talk down the cp4 pump but with a lift pump behind it you're ok, ive seen cp3 pump fail just as well as the cp4, I think you'll be ok with the cp4 and lift pump, ive seen allot of cp4 pump still running @ over 600k miles trust me
Guys one of the mistakes is to loosen the 11mm nut on the down pipe clamp before getting both shields off , start with the small heat shield it will come seay from the side then the bigger one u have to pull it from behind too and wiggle it a little bit but it comes out easy 2, after that loosen the 11mm nut for the down pipe turbo clamp and it slides easy down
I j helped my mechanic with an EGR delete on my 2015 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali DRW. I did not have my tuner yet.
After completion, my air conditioning suddenly doesn’t blow cold ( 2 month old compressor is not engaging.)
Mechanic said I needed my tuner install and it should work .
I ordered the tuner and gave the info for mods I was planning to go ( I have all parts )
EGR complete
Dpf delete Sensors disconnected
Cold air intake installed
Fass lift pump Not installed yet
5 in flow pro straight pipe not installed i
Down pipes Not installed
Up pipes Not installed
EFI live tuner arrived I installed the switch and flashed
Seems to run fine , no engine light
But my driver window doesn’t work
Back up camera doesn’t work
Air conditioning compressor still not engaging
Bummed out the screws for continuing any more work until I get this right but I’m not driving the truck. Put a snap on scanner on it and it had no codes.
Never had those issues before personally, but YOU CANT RUN A DELETE TUNE WITHOUT REMOVING FACTORY EXHAUST! The delete tune deactivates all the regen/burn process, so your exhaust is going to plug up and you can seriously damage your engine!
Where did you get your delete tuning?
WOW…I’ve been in performance industry for over 60 yrs..this job I would not even consider ..is it possible it would be easier to remove the engine?
A very impressive job…you are very talented..
Just how much does a day of torture cost
No way, pulling the engine would be 100 times longer.
Lift the cab
It’s wild how much more complicated this is compared to an l5p
Thank you sir for this helpful video.That metal coolant tube is holding me up.Wasnt sure how to go forward with it in the way of that one up pipe bolt to turbo.2 bolts are all that's left of 9.Ill be so glad to finish this install.Ready to work on something else.I drive 18 whlr x country and limited time at home.Ive been on new up pipes install for 5 months now,and still in removal stage.Not started putting new back on.
I feel your pain, also a trucker and not much time to devote to getting my truck done either. Also need to replace my CP4 with a CP3 and all the injectors / rails. Can't wait.
Thanks for the video, this is a tough job even with a video, I could not have done it without you thanks !!!!!!
I enjoy watching your stuff. Always nice seeing Canadian content 🇨🇦
Man thank you so much. I know how much patience that must have took. Good job man!
Amazing Video!!!! I did mine and boy… it was not a fun job. But the smiles after it’s all done and my tools are clean and put away… I’m smiling from ear to ear!
QUESTION- on the thermostat hose… the hose that you ran from the thermostats over to the fuel filter area…. The clamp that you used to fasten down the hose… do or have you ever had problems with the hose blowing off due to pressure? Is one clamp enough to fasten down the hose ???
Great info: What about DELETE you mention before starting ,what do you mean by programing
Don’t you hate when that happens 😅. Whoever owns that truck has clean tastes, great looking truck.
Ya it’s the worst! Had to work all day Saturday to get it finished for the customer but oh well, what can ya do.
What kind of MPG difference do you get on your LML now
@darkirondiesel thanks for the video. Did you ever figure out which of the two sensors on the top of the downpipe are actually required? Also, is the third "sensor" down on the lower end of the downpipe not just the 9th injector? I've read that you can just plug that. Thanks again for the instructional video.
My truck is EGR/DPF deleted but want to make sure it's more reliable so I have purchased the following:
cp3 conversion (no - tuning required, no 9th injector)
new up pipe
3" down pipe (no bungs)
egr delete kit
Fass Lift Pump
The EGT and O2 sensor for the down pipe can be discarded correct?
I know I'm looking at a 15 hour install, just waiting until duck season is over to begin the fun. The truck is off road use only.
AWESOME ! Video! Thank you for helping everyone. Hmm I bought a 2011, with the EGR delete already done. I'm having a difficult time trying to find the coolant hose, from the engine to the cab. Its leaking at the back of the motor. Any thoughts, ideas would so much appreciated, Thank You !!!
What do you have to do with the transmission or will it hold up??
Is there any additional tuning that need done once it’s removed?
Are the coolant lines ran the same on all LMLs? I have a 2011 3500.
What kit do you recommend getting for this complete delete?
i'm lucky here in Alberta we are still allowed to do full EGR delete
So jealous! It's a nightmare here in Ontario now!
I installed the kit from the diesel dudes ( down pipe , y pipe, coolant hoses & blocker plate )
Mu temp gauge hangs at 210 them jumps to like 211/12 then drops to 208/09 , is that just the thermostat cycling due to more flow ?
Replaced the thermostats , temp gauge , coolant flush & still the same
Ya I wouldn’t worry about that minor fluctuation
Broo u make it look so easy!!!! I wanna try doing it,,, ime mechanicly inclined but i know myselfe and i know wrenches will start flying… whats the going rate in a job like this if i pay for parts??? I might just have somebody do it for me.. i can do dpf delete,, exhuast install and lift pump.. ime scared of doing this though
I was told the down pipe is optional and does not need to be replaced, can you give any more detail on why or why not replace it?
That sensor on the middle of the down pipe is the 9th injector, could could delete it if you want. The 9th injector will be turned off when you tune the truck.
Did u get a chance to try and jacking up the cab? I’m struggling with my down pipe and can’t find a way to get at the 3rd bolt on the heat shield. And feel like I’m gonna break something when I try and ratchet strap it down. Any tips??
Thank you very much
You motivated me to AGR MY 2011 Chevy
Duramax
Random dumb question I'm having issues with the def side of my emissions can I just delete my dpf and leave the egr but unplug them?
Would it be easier to lift the cab off the truck to do this?
Awesome video bro
Thank you. It wasn’t fun to make haha
for delete a egr dpf def first you need remove all sensor or after remove all sensor
so this will probably sound a little sideways but i used to wrench for a living... this job would seem a lot easier if you pulled the radiator and exhaust pipes and the trans and motor mounts and slid
the motor/ trans forward... what say you??
is it absolutely necessary to remove the egr? or can you just unplug the sensors and just by pass it with the tune
Thats how mine is done. Tuned and unplugged with blocker plate. After watching this, i don't see the need to get in there and go to torture fest because the LML runs fine like this. Other than lose a little weight but thats a non factor on a 9000lb truck
@@MrMotor11But could you agree that this could affect turbo spool time?
@@nickolasgiampietro3164 Since that time i've had the items mentioned removed. So i got to experience it running with all the EGR parts, blocked and totally deleted. Honestly, i don't feel much variation but then again with a straight 4" exhaust the whole time there was never much resistance to spool up so i might defer this question.
Where did you buy all the parts to do this job?
why does the down pipe need to be replaced? I was told it isn't necessary, can you clarify?
So what do you gain by doing this modification?
I believe I missed a sensor, my check engine light is still on. A list of sensors that need to be unplugged would be very helpful.
Detailed information and video nicely done
Thanks buddy
@@darkirondiesel no worries man
Where are yall located?
If the truck is already in limp mode and decide to do delete will this get rid of limp mode? Or does efl live or any programer erase the limp mode
awesome job
It helped me. It helped me decide not to try this. Ridiculous. When I deleted my LML, instructions included disconnecting 3 connections for egr delete. Do you know what the difference is between that and what you did ( besides physically removing egr)?
Haha ya they aren’t fun. When you delete the dpf and install a delete tune on a truck you have to unplug the throttle valve and the 2 egr plugs on an LML. Basically it deactivates the egr system. The valves should remain shut therefor not letting exhaust back into the engine. Guys will physically remove the egr system for a few reasons. One is for peace of mind, if you remove the egr system and block it all off then you KNOW 100% that there will be no exhaust going back into the engine. Second reason is that sometimes the egr coolers crack so you start burning coolant or pressuring up your coolant system. And the third is just for looks, it really cleans an engine up when you remove it.
You just did an "electrical" (or virtual) delete. He did a physical delete in this video. Basically you just disabled the components, and he removed them.
Thank you for this video, the uppipe @13:28 is cracked and leaking for 2nd time. Its gotta go
What year is your truck I need remove egr my 2022 it's same?
I am doing a EZ Lynk, EGR Delete with up pipe, down pipe, and 5” exhaust. Do I need to delete DPF, DEF, and tune before my EGR removal? Or can I do it all afterwards?
I saw his video on the dpf delete and he said to tune it before you unplug and take stuff out.
@@Mattss90 so tune, take dpf out, and then egr?
@@kolyncantrell6762 I’m not 100 on that. I just know he said to tune prior to taking cat and dpf out.
What tune you going to run??
I just did this and the turbo is very loud, is that pretty normal?
Hey man Jw can install my EGR delete without my side up pipes ?
Thanks for your time!
Would it be better to just use a coolant bypass instead of that hose with the kit?
Question please. If I delete the egr my self and I have a hand held tuner like a mini maxx can I tune it myself or do I have to have a shop dyno tune it?
The tuner already has the dpf, def, and egr systems programmed out of your ecm. You should unplug the sensors so it won’t throw your truck off and can cause it to run weird. If you start adding more performance parts you can go back to retune and get the most out of your parts (I believe). As of deleting the egr physically you shouldn’t need a retune.
@@jaxonsmith9551 gotcha thank you for the input man
ever figure out which sensor has to go back into the new downpipe? you said mayb discard the one and flipped it back, and then mayb the other side one goes back in,,,ever figure out which ones which ?
Good video. Thank you!!
How much hp does the egr delete actually add?
What headlights is your guy runnin?
Makes the Cummins delete look not too bad
You got that right
Yes sir Cummins deletes are way easy
Haha 6.7 Cummins/Powerstrokes are easy to delete compared to these Lmls
I’m doing the def and egr delete on a 2011 duramax. It is already limited to 55mph because of def problems. I did the def tank and exhaust removal and also did the tuning with a Mini maxx tuner. Do you think it will still be stuck in limp mode after I’m done.
Nope as long as the minimax had the “emissions removed” setting and you selected it you will be fine. You can just get rid of the exhaust and unplug the egr, you don’t have to physically remove egr if you don’t want to.
Dark Iron Diesel thank you so much 👍
Same exact thing happened to my 15 lml. It’s throwing codes for a bad egr valve. I ordered a flo pro exhaust and a tune so hopefully it clears the code and let’s me go fast again.
What’s wrong with just unplugging both egr plugs and just leaving all that alone?
I inquired about the egr delete at the dealer and they lift the cab up to do it
What do you charge to do a job like this?
Don't you have to pull the turbo anyway & remove the canister to install the downpipe? Or is that for L5p's?
That’s for the L5P, completely different.
So waiting on my EGR Delete kit. Can I tune it and delete def and strait pipe it, and just unplug the Egr for right now? Or do I have to do it all at once?? Thanks for your help
Yup you can
On the intake side block plate you used the factory gaskets mine has orings do I need to use the factory gaskets as well or is it a good idea to I'm not sure if yours had orings
No just use the o rings
I’ve got a question about the small coolant line that you didn’t mention what you do with. It comes off the cooler and Ts into another line that you didn’t cut toward the passenger side. Any help would be appreciated
I ordered a delete kit but I choose the option without the up pipe,does that me I don’t have to pull it out?
Pull cab bolts and jack up in the resr of cab only like 6 inch . And losen fronts welcome
I got the ez lynk tuner. My dpf is backed up and blowing air. I have no power to the truck right now. What should be my first step?
Tune truck, remove exhaust, unplug egr.
Do you have a link to all the parts you used
I bought a new up pipe so i used sawszall and pulled old one out in 2 pieces
Will it be ok to leave everything after the delete and the egr unplugged?
You can leave the egr but not the dpf
@@darkirondiesel ok just making sure thank you . i bought my truck this way
All that work I would definitely upgrade the turbo and cp4 if I was that deep into the truck
Yes because everyone can afford a new turbo
That CP4 is expensive to swap for CP3,but cheaper than entire fuel system if you wait until the CP4 dies.
Install XRG Exergy system save valve to protect fuel system in case cp4 craps out
Stop fighting with the down pipe just take off the right side cab bolts so you can jack up the cab a bit and it comes right out. Just saying
I’ve heard of guys doing that... might have to give it a shot next time
Yeah, had to do that when replacing my starter. Take off the motor mount bolts and jack up from the transmission...fell right out.
@@EricEscamillaesca2791 You got it
Great video! Going to get into this in my 2011 LML next weekend. How long did it take you start to finish?
Well usually it takes me about 7-8 hours but this one was more like 12 because of that damn broken bolt
If you do this at your house don't get in a hurry and I planned 3 days.....1 day was just getting all the bullshit off and out of the way. And the other 2 was taking my time to unfortunately the exhaust and turbo bolts....or you'll end up taking more time to fix broken bolts
Awesome job 👍🏽 I just installed a PPE downpipe and that was a pain in the ass I will take my truck to a shop for the EGR delete I don't want to take the new PPE downpipe out It was already a pain in the butt to get it in there
How long would it take you without pulling the turbo
6-8 hours ish, depends if I’m groovin or not haha
Also I’m not installing any aftermarket down pipe or up pipe. Do those need to come out to get EGR out?
No if you’re using a blocker plate you don’t have to pull the up or down pipe
Well I ended up buying a down pipe. I don’t see how the EGR comes off east without doing the down pipe lol! Thanks
For the video! Def helped me. My trucks been in my Garage for a week! Third time I watched this video I realized that tube had another bolt holding it in to remove! That one almost broke me before I saw that!!!
@@darkirondiesel thanks! By far the worst thing I have done on a truck or car. I’d rather put long tube headers on a GT500 without dropping the K meme er then do this again!
I have a 2015 lml, had def problems, it’s now deleted with efi live, but now it keeps giving P249d code and it won’t clear. Confirmed with tuner all settings are correct in program. Any ideas? Is there another way to clear?
Will a bad Def modulator cause the truck to throw a EGR bypass valve stuck at ten degrees open code and send a check emissions now alert to the dashboard with a speed limiter warning attached to it?
Sounds like you have 2 separate issues to me. That egr valve stuck open will be its own issue. I’d definitely get that fixed ASAP
Kyle, while trying to install my 2018 6.7 Cummins tune with an AutoCal, I get an error message on the AutoCal that says ignition is switched off. IT WASN'T OFF. Have you ever had this error $0549 before? If so how did you work around it?
I haven’t seen it before unless I forget to turn the ignition on. My advice is contact the company that wrote the tunes. Also, make sure you are using the 2018+ Cummins bypass cable.
I have a 2013 durimax. Ive ordered the 4inch pipe with the EFI tuner. The kit also includes the EGR delete kit. It comes with the uppipe but they say I dont have to replace the downpipe. Do I need to replace the downpipe?
You don’t have to but honestly it’s such a pain in the ass to take out and even worse to put back in so my advice is if you got the factory one out get rid of it and replace it with a better flowing 3” downpipe. Also goes in way easier
@@darkirondiesel thanks ordered one. And one more question. Im seeing everyone deleting the 9th injector, is that something I should do as well? I'm doing this all at once. Just waiting on the downpipe to come in.
What I got... but havent installed yet is a 4 inch straight pipe, EFI Tuner with the "on the fly" switch, EGR delete kit, uppipe and downpipe. As I said, doing everything at one time.
Can you please make a video on the l5p. Please. Thanks
Man I really prefer to work on 6.7 rams🤣 such a cluster under those lml hoods
How do you know if your truck been deleted.
I just got a 2015 3500hd denali duramax diesel. My first diesel.
Looking under the hood I found 2 sensors unhooked 1 on the passenger side near the firewall
1 driver side middle of motor they said there 3 sensors but only saw 2
Look at the exhaust, if there’s a couple big filters and sensors plugged in then it’s probably not deleted. If it just looks like a normal exhaust with no big filters or sensors it’s deleted.
Do I need to torque anything or just get it right?
Every bolt has a torque spec based on bolt size and thread pitch, but personally I don’t use a torque wrench on this job. Just get everything snuggled up nice and you should be ok. If you are worried you could look up the torque specs.
What emission stuff do they have up there in Canada?
Not as strict as the ones down there🤫