Thank you thank you thank you!!! Been searching for months to find anything about how to open and clean it! Ive called lots if shops asking if they will clean it and nobody will they all just say buy a new turbo… but this video was exactly what I was looking for!
Great video. I can’t help noticing that the opportunity to wake that thing up while you had it open was seriously missed. It’s not that often we get that deep into things. Some suggestions if you get there again or for your viewers would be a new 3” down pipe, KCTurbo balanced assembly for the turbo, WcFab Ybridge air flow kit that incorporates the EGR if you get inspections, maybe even hot and cold side intercooler pipes, WCFAB makes a nice set of tubes. Exhaust manifold. Depending on where you live, lb7 up pipes and EGR delete….. It’s a couple thousand bucks, but just mpg gains would make up for it. Happy wrenching!
I may do some upgrades one day, but when I did this I was on a $0 budget so it was all about getting the truck fixed cheap. Don’t forget about a good eco tune. My average mpg went up a few mpg without any changes in parts.
@@ThatllDoEngineeringThat’s a good point. What tune/tuner do you use? I am looking at one now realizing that should have been my first step. I bought and installed $5,000 in parts thinking everything had to be done before I Dyno and tune. I could have been using banks ecomind or something over the past year. Maybe would have paid for itself if fuel savings by now.
Great vid . I have been looking for a break down of the side plunger and how it actuates the veins . Going to see if a whack on that first frees mine up. Its 10 degrees and my garage is full
@@ThatllDoEngineering 65k.. sad. Up here in North East stuff rusts bad. Had to put some good heat into a few studs of up pipes. Wish they had through bolted it. Thinking I might do Garrett plus stage 1. Looking for info on headers.
Hi did your truck start making a “whining” sound before you removed the turbo? I’m getting the codes too and I changed the vane sensor twice.. the code comes and goes and the truck seems to run just fine except for the whining sound which sounds like it’s coming from the engine compartment.. any help would be appreciated.. also, if I don’t take mine out and clean it or replace it will it damage my truck in any way? Thanks! I’m in Southern California south Orange County.. any suggestions on LBZ mechanics??
I don’t recall a “whining” sound but these motors make a lot of noise and maybe I just didn’t notice it. My codes came and went for a while too until the veins stuck for good. You can test to make sure the veins are indeed stuck by manually operating them using the plunger like I show in the video. It’s possible it’s a bad actuator or I’ve heard a bad MAP sensor can throw some wierd codes. I don’t think stuck veins can do any harm to the engine because the computer should adjust the fueling to the boost pressure read by the map sensor. You will just be down on power. Have you tried the “Italian Tune-up”? Get on a clear back road and open it up. That black smoke is un-burnt fuel going through the turbo and burning in the exhaust. Between the fuel, heat and high pressure it could clean up the carbon in the turbo. I have a mechanic near me in Modesto that quoted me $1000 labor to swap the turbo which is more than fair but I decided to do it myself.
Thank you so much I have taken mine off cleaned it everything moves smoothly! Then I'll put it back in and drove it for 70 miles then the code came back on😢 is there a way to test to see if the veins have locked up again without removing the turbo.
If you look back at the 9:30 mark in the video you where I pulled the plunger an operated the veins, you can do that with the turbo on the truck. Oil will come out of the turbo so throw a rag under it.
If you had access to a lift it's alot easier to unbolt the body and a few wires and steering shaft and transmission linkage. About 30mins of work then you can lift off the whole body then you got all the room you need. Alot better than trying to get in there with the body on.
Would it have been possible to remove the v-band clamp and open the hot section without removing the whole turbo assembly? My 2012 has P003A code but no apparent drivability issues, think it might be unison ring.
I don’t believe it’s possible. Between the oil drain line and other stuff in the way, and also getting everything lined up to go back together would be very difficult in place. I did make the same consideration and just bit the bullet and did the removal.
Some people say running Hot Shots helped clear theirs out. Some say just find an empty road and perform the “Italian tune-up” and put your foot to the floor to clean it out. None of those worked for me though.
I’ve got the same codes on my Lbz but I’m a box truck and technically a Chevy express van so access to most of the engine is under the hub in cab uggh. I’m going to change sensor first and hope nothing is stuck, cuz I’m not taking apart turbo.
I’ll keep my fingers crossed for you. I would have thought having access to the back of the engine by removing the doghouse in the cab would make this job easier. I guess that’s not the case. I’ve never seen an express van with a Duramax packed in it. Must be a snug fit.
Is there some clocking or timing from the piston to lever that turns the unison ring? I took one apart cleaned it up. Made sure it moved freely when I put it back together, doesn't work, still throws p003a and I can't get it to do the learn procedure either. When I was cleaning it I did not realize that the piston would slide out. So when I slid it back in I had to push it so far before I could turn the unison ring lever. I wonder if I could have that off, as far as not the right position. New position sensor, and now new oil actuator. With new actuator in there I am hearing a click sound out of it. But does nothing.
I did not remove the inner plunger but I suppose it could have gone back together incorrectly. I’ve been told you don’t need to do a relearn procedure (I didn’t). The truck is supposed to self test the veins each time you start the truck. That piston is pretty far in there but I’m not sure how it connects to the lever that operates the unison ring. I suppose you could have put the plunger back in out of sync. But without pulling the turbo again to check and make sure the veins have full range of motion from open to closed, I’m not sure there is any way of checking it.
I do know that that's what they say that they ended them in 06. But when I look it up on snap on's shop key, I use an 07 express 3500, because that is the only thing in 07 that the engine Vin is a 2. And it says it's a lly. So idk I can't seem to find the rpo codes. I read I may have to call the dealer. Anyway I appreciate. Yea when I tipped it over I didn't think about the piston coming out and I never done one. And just to see I tried moving the cam pin, and it was locked. I mean you could jiggle it but it wouldn't turn. So I pushed piston in slow until it moved. When I got the turbo all back together I checked that to make sure I could push the piston in and out easy and it did. But again I appreciate the reply.
Right that is what I read on shop key. It just said to do the relearn because it might have been far enough out before that it would throw a code before it relearned. It won't relearn until 160 or 170 on coolant temp, then yes every ignition cycle after that temp it relearn. That's what shop key says anyway.
It wasn’t, but I imagine that would depend on where the veins are stuck. It looks like mine were stuck open, so I was getting all the power up top but laggy at the lower end. I didn’t notice much smoke. If they were stuck closed I bet you would get more smoke due to lack of airflow.
Yeah I think I’ve got the same problem. Great power up top for sure but I definitely feel like it might be lacking in the low end. No smoke at all either.
Авто/Мото
Thank you thank you thank you!!! Been searching for months to find anything about how to open and clean it! Ive called lots if shops asking if they will clean it and nobody will they all just say buy a new turbo… but this video was exactly what I was looking for!
Glad I could help. I had the same problem when I went to clean mine. So I made a video so the next guy might have it a bit easier.
Thanks for sharing. Great video. I believe I have to do this to mine . I already changed out both sensors 😢
Great video. I can’t help noticing that the opportunity to wake that thing up while you had it open was seriously missed. It’s not that often we get that deep into things. Some suggestions if you get there again or for your viewers would be a new 3” down pipe, KCTurbo balanced assembly for the turbo, WcFab Ybridge air flow kit that incorporates the EGR if you get inspections, maybe even hot and cold side intercooler pipes, WCFAB makes a nice set of tubes. Exhaust manifold. Depending on where you live, lb7 up pipes and EGR delete….. It’s a couple thousand bucks, but just mpg gains would make up for it. Happy wrenching!
I may do some upgrades one day, but when I did this I was on a $0 budget so it was all about getting the truck fixed cheap. Don’t forget about a good eco tune. My average mpg went up a few mpg without any changes in parts.
@@ThatllDoEngineeringThat’s a good point. What tune/tuner do you use? I am looking at one now realizing that should have been my first step. I bought and installed $5,000 in parts thinking everything had to be done before I Dyno and tune. I could have been using banks ecomind or something over the past year. Maybe would have paid for itself if fuel savings by now.
A local guy did mine using EFI live. He said I would get +60hp and about 3mpg. Got the mpg but it would take a dyno to verify the hp/torque
A local guy did mine using EFI live. He said I would get +60hp and about 3mpg. Got the mpg but it would take a dyno to verify the hp/torque
Good job
On the unison ring and the pin that moves it. It is geared and controlled by the “plunger” like piece. How did you get those back in time?
I didn’t remove the plunger or pin, just the unison ring. I didn’t feel like there was anything to “time” I just put the ring back on the pin.
Great vid . I have been looking for a break down of the side plunger and how it actuates the veins . Going to see if a whack on that first frees mine up. Its 10 degrees and my garage is full
I had made that tool to operate the plunger in and out but mine was really stuck and I guess I wasn’t brave enough to whack it with a hammer.
@@ThatllDoEngineering Mine was stuck bad.. yanking it tonight.. Funny is just happens so quick.. 65k.. guess ill findrust
I’ve seen people suggest to put anti-seize on the veins and ring when re-installing which I didn’t do, but it’s worth considering.
@@ThatllDoEngineering 65k.. sad.
Up here in North East stuff rusts bad.
Had to put some good heat into a few studs of up pipes.
Wish they had through bolted it.
Thinking I might do Garrett plus stage 1.
Looking for info on headers.
@@ThatllDoEngineering not sure about anti seize. Maybe hex boron nitride?
Hi did your truck start making a “whining” sound before you removed the turbo? I’m getting the codes too and I changed the vane sensor twice.. the code comes and goes and the truck seems to run just fine except for the whining sound which sounds like it’s coming from the engine compartment.. any help would be appreciated.. also, if I don’t take mine out and clean it or replace it will it damage my truck in any way? Thanks! I’m in Southern California south Orange County.. any suggestions on LBZ mechanics??
I don’t recall a “whining” sound but these motors make a lot of noise and maybe I just didn’t notice it. My codes came and went for a while too until the veins stuck for good. You can test to make sure the veins are indeed stuck by manually operating them using the plunger like I show in the video. It’s possible it’s a bad actuator or I’ve heard a bad MAP sensor can throw some wierd codes. I don’t think stuck veins can do any harm to the engine because the computer should adjust the fueling to the boost pressure read by the map sensor. You will just be down on power. Have you tried the “Italian Tune-up”? Get on a clear back road and open it up. That black smoke is un-burnt fuel going through the turbo and burning in the exhaust. Between the fuel, heat and high pressure it could clean up the carbon in the turbo. I have a mechanic near me in Modesto that quoted me $1000 labor to swap the turbo which is more than fair but I decided to do it myself.
Thank you!
Great video. I’m going to do this method this winter. Did you apply any high temp grease before putting the turbo back together?
I did not, I saw where some people used anti-seize on the veins but I just use a heavy right foot to clean it out once in a while.
Excellent video! I’m getting the same code popping up on my 06 LBZ. About to tackle this.. Did it end up clearing the code for you? Thx!
Yep, no codes since then.
Thank you so much I have taken mine off cleaned it everything moves smoothly! Then I'll put it back in and drove it for 70 miles then the code came back on😢 is there a way to test to see if the veins have locked up again without removing the turbo.
If you look back at the 9:30 mark in the video you where I pulled the plunger an operated the veins, you can do that with the turbo on the truck. Oil will come out of the turbo so throw a rag under it.
If you had access to a lift it's alot easier to unbolt the body and a few wires and steering shaft and transmission linkage. About 30mins of work then you can lift off the whole body then you got all the room you need. Alot better than trying to get in there with the body on.
Broke boy gang wya
Would it have been possible to remove the v-band clamp and open the hot section without removing the whole turbo assembly? My 2012 has P003A code but no apparent drivability issues, think it might be unison ring.
I don’t believe it’s possible. Between the oil drain line and other stuff in the way, and also getting everything lined up to go back together would be very difficult in place. I did make the same consideration and just bit the bullet and did the removal.
Thank you for responding. I’ll probably have my mechanic look at it, just didn’t want to spend $3,500.
Some people say running Hot Shots helped clear theirs out. Some say just find an empty road and perform the “Italian tune-up” and put your foot to the floor to clean it out. None of those worked for me though.
I’ve got the same codes on my Lbz but I’m a box truck and technically a Chevy express van so access to most of the engine is under the hub in cab uggh. I’m going to change sensor first and hope nothing is stuck, cuz I’m not taking apart turbo.
I’ll keep my fingers crossed for you. I would have thought having access to the back of the engine by removing the doghouse in the cab would make this job easier. I guess that’s not the case. I’ve never seen an express van with a Duramax packed in it. Must be a snug fit.
Is there some clocking or timing from the piston to lever that turns the unison ring? I took one apart cleaned it up. Made sure it moved freely when I put it back together, doesn't work, still throws p003a and I can't get it to do the learn procedure either. When I was cleaning it I did not realize that the piston would slide out. So when I slid it back in I had to push it so far before I could turn the unison ring lever. I wonder if I could have that off, as far as not the right position. New position sensor, and now new oil actuator. With new actuator in there I am hearing a click sound out of it. But does nothing.
I'm working on a 07 c5500, I thought was a lly, but I can't find anything to tell me what it is. Lly or Lbz I'm guessing.
I did not remove the inner plunger but I suppose it could have gone back together incorrectly. I’ve been told you don’t need to do a relearn procedure (I didn’t). The truck is supposed to self test the veins each time you start the truck. That piston is pretty far in there but I’m not sure how it connects to the lever that operates the unison ring. I suppose you could have put the plunger back in out of sync. But without pulling the turbo again to check and make sure the veins have full range of motion from open to closed, I’m not sure there is any way of checking it.
‘07 would be an LBZ or LMM. The LLY ended in the middle of ‘06
I do know that that's what they say that they ended them in 06. But when I look it up on snap on's shop key, I use an 07 express 3500, because that is the only thing in 07 that the engine Vin is a 2. And it says it's a lly. So idk I can't seem to find the rpo codes. I read I may have to call the dealer. Anyway I appreciate. Yea when I tipped it over I didn't think about the piston coming out and I never done one. And just to see I tried moving the cam pin, and it was locked. I mean you could jiggle it but it wouldn't turn. So I pushed piston in slow until it moved. When I got the turbo all back together I checked that to make sure I could push the piston in and out easy and it did. But again I appreciate the reply.
Right that is what I read on shop key. It just said to do the relearn because it might have been far enough out before that it would throw a code before it relearned. It won't relearn until 160 or 170 on coolant temp, then yes every ignition cycle after that temp it relearn. That's what shop key says anyway.
Was your truck pushing out black smoke when you’d throttle it?
It wasn’t, but I imagine that would depend on where the veins are stuck. It looks like mine were stuck open, so I was getting all the power up top but laggy at the lower end. I didn’t notice much smoke. If they were stuck closed I bet you would get more smoke due to lack of airflow.
Yeah I think I’ve got the same problem. Great power up top for sure but I definitely feel like it might be lacking in the low end. No smoke at all either.
People cut that damned heat shield on top first 😂
Im getting the same codes! How many miles on it?
I believe I was at about 170,000.
What state is this in
California
Still working today?
Yep, running like a champ