2001 Ford F150 ABS Pump & Module Replacement (Spongy Sinking Brake Pedal Fix)
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- Опубликовано: 16 дек 2024
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This has been one of the best, clearest, easy to follow videos I have ever watched. Thanks, K.
Thanks for your comment. Good luck with your repair.
I'm a retired Ford, Lincoln-Mercury service manager. This video is one of the best training films I have ever seen on replacing an ABS module. Thank you very much for sharing it with us.
Logan R. Sumstine
Thank you for the comment. I greatly appreciate it.
That was my thoughts too. Very well executed and thorough
Quick tip: Before disconnecting the brake lines put a bar or something on the brake pedal holding it down a couple inches, that'll lock the fluid in the master so it doesn't drain while you're working on other stuff.
Dude put up a video nice tip
@@broken1965 I'll probably do it next time I'm doing work on brake hydraulics. I just replaced one of these modules, I gravity bled it and it worked, super easy.
Man I’ve been in the business for decades and I know exactly how master cylinders work and still, I have never heard or thought about that. Great tip! I’ll pass it along!
@@mikemcleroy8265 I've been repeatedly shocked to find out that almost nobody does it, 'till they hear it and go "damn, I shoulda been doing this 20 years ago!" A few people I've told claimed that it won't work therefore they won't bother trying it; fools.
Many people also say that gravity bleeding won't work, yet it's how I've been doing it for over 25 years. Same goes for "bench bleeding" masters after installing and connecting the lines. It works and there's no fluid leakage to worry about while getting it installed. I almost never have to bleed the rest of the system, any air in the lines to the master will go up into the reservoir if you have the vehicle at the right angle, very handy in cases where bleeding the ABS module can be problematic.
Just want to say thank you buddy. I took my truck to mechanic they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it they changed the master cylinder twice thinking that was the problem. And after paying for that service twice I found this video qnd did it myself it fixed my problem.
Awesome job on the repair. Glad you got it all squared away.
The question asked and answered several times - any re-programming necessary? Absolutely not, the ABS module is "plug and play". We'd been without ABS for a couple of years, replacing sensors and dreading replacement of the module. Everywhere we looked seemed to suggest module may need some kind of programming to match the main computer. Thanks to Insane Oil and commenters for settling this issue. INSTANT gratification when installed - ABS light out!
Thanks for the comments. It sounds like everything went well.
To just reiterate a comment I was fortunate enough to see before doing this : depress your brake pedal about half way before doing this to avoid having your master cylinder drain!
Great video, shows you everything you need to know. I'll add my insight as I've just swapped out my module and pump :
I paid about $95 for my pump/module from Pull-a-Part. Seems a bit expensive considering what you can get a reman module for online, but it does come with a 30 day warranty which I WILL be using.
Which is my next point even if it applies to one person : before pulling anything apart, take your new module and hook it to the power cable in your truck - If I'd done that first, I'd have known the module I pulled had a stuck open pump - running at all times unless you pull the relay or battery line.
Now that's what you get sometimes when pulling a part from a junkyard - that's fine. My next point :
Well I'll just use regular wrenches why not? WRONG - I didn't even strip a bolt, just boogered one. Well that boogered bolt turned this into torture. Turning a bolt 1/64 at a time in such a cramped space made this WAY harder than it should have been..
That said, I got it done, have much better brakes, and my abs light is off
Sounds like it was a success in the end. Thanks for the comment.
@user-fi6ft9pp7l How do you hook up a new ABS module to a power cable, where do you hook it up on the ABS module?
Do you mean the battery cables?
I'm new to doing my own repairs and I would like to know how to do this when I get another one.
Very well done explanation! Straight to the point immediately. That is how a professional would do it. I am 71 years old and don't like crawling under my truck chasing brake lines. I am looking for a diagram or video on the web that explains where each of those brake lines come from and proceed to on a 2002 F150.
Thanks for the comment. Unfortunately, I don't have a diagram. Any luck finding one?
I wish all RUclipsrs were this good.
I agree.
Awesome video. Very clear explanation. Graphics to explain components and location is perfect.
Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated.
brilliant presentation .. you covered every step.. nice comment below about pressing the brake pedal to close the reservoir feed .
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Great video. Thanks! When you bleed the ABS module, do you just bleed the top 3 connections to the wheels or the bottom 2 to the master cylinder as well?
I believe I did all connections.
Are these connections the only ones that you bleed or do you have to bleed the calipers also?
I will have to replace my ABS module and not my pump because it's fine.
Will I have to bleed those connections like you did even though it's only my ABS module that needs replacing?
pedal jack the brake pedal about 1/2 way down when doing anything to the hydraulic part of brakes, holds the fluid, makes it much easier to bleed,. a time or two i didn't even have to bleed the brakes when replacing wheel cylinders. make sure to pull the brake light fuse or unhook the switch. it also saves the rubber brake hoses from damage by using vice grips.
my Dad taught me that trick years ago. sure do miss him!!
Thanks for the comments. Much appreciated.
Thanks for the great video, it helped me replace the ABS pump on my 08 Saab 93.
Awesome...glad it helped.
Good video, I enjoyed the fact that you highlighted each component, and thought to get part from scrapyard.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Wow, this video was well explain, congratulation guys. My name is (sam) from DOMINICAN REPUBLIC.
Thanks for the comment Sam. Good luck with your repair.
First of all,great video. On the other hand,did you have to reprogram the ABS,after the installation,even if it’s a used part ? And the two ports that are used to test for the malfunction of the pump,does every single ABS for different makes and models have those ports,too? My 2014 Tundra brake,has that symptom ,thanks...
I did not reprogram the ABS after installation. I would assume the process would be similar for other makes/models of vehicles.
Two awesome videos in one week! Thank you and Happy New Year!
Thank you for the comment. Much appreciated.
Had the exact same symptom wit a 2008 ford escape , brake bleed did nothing. My son suggested forcing the abs to function ,took it somewhere safe and locked up the breaks a couple times. The soft pedal is no longer . I have no idea where the air could have gone but it's been fine for weeks now.
Howd you do that? Was it in reverse driving about 10mph then hard braking??
@@KingLlovit foreward and lock the brakes so you hear the abs kick in ,about 40mph.
@@kevinstav4757 I attempted that procedure with this truck prior to this repair. The piston gets stuck due to dirty brake fluid. Activating the ABS will sometimes break free the piston and it will begin working again.
Speaking how you do helps a lot 👍🏼🤷♂️. Ty sir
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
I've had some success slipping rubber caps on the ends of the disconnected brake lines to stop or reduce the loss of brake fluid.
Great tip. Thanks.
Great video! Thank you! I replaced my abs on an 04 F350 with a used one and it's better, but traded one issue for another.
Question: is the aluminum valve block prone to failure? Or just the control module?
I suspect that my module was just fine but I had previously pushed some dirty brake fluid through the system and think it clogged the pump.
Awesome video. You define every step. Any tips for How to check the ABS on a 2005 ford f150? 🤔
I love this video the green highlights made it easy to understand.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
@Insane Oil i just acquired a new to me 2000 F150 XLT and it has a very interesting issue. The battery was dead so i got a brand new one.
As soon as I connected the battery, engine off key out, there is a random clicking noise, sounds like a relay but i checked the engine bay relays and it doesn't come from there.
Upon closer listening, it sounds like the clicking is coming from either somewhere under the heater controls closer to floor or middle to driver side low part of the engine.
I have been touching items to feel for vibration and i found that one of the lines that goes from the master cylinder to the abs module is vibrating every time the clicking happens. Remember this is key off engine off. Sometimes it happens after driving and shutting the vehicle off for a while. The battery went dead a few times I'm assuming this is the cause.
When driving it seems to stop normally but i will have to do your slow pedal test soon.
Any thoughts?
Did you come up with any solutions yet?
@@InsaneOil the abs module wire was partially disconnected, i think the previous owner. i plugged it back in and it starts pumping continuous even with engine off, i thought that's what drains the battery but it's something else... not sure
@@SilverBullet93GT Sounds similar to this ruclips.net/video/GnHGfb6dFVk/видео.html
Same problem Grrrrrr
Our problem sound like your here. I want to try and bleed this pump first and see what happens. Brakes were good and one day had soft pedal intermittently
I first went through all the other solutions (as you noted) before doing this repair.
Great video! Great content as well as clear and concise instruction.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
I am having this same problem and did not know if because I take it easy when I drive. During the annual inspection, they found the pedal sinks if you stand on the brake. In normal driving the truck stops just fine. Did the pedal become very firm after the repair?
Yes, the pedal returned to normal operation after the repair.
I need to replace this unit on my Ford explorer. However, I am very interested in how you get that green highlight on your video. What video editing software did you use?
I use a combination of Photoshop and Premiere Pro.
Did your "new" pump and valve body just end up failing as well?
That is my concern, I go through all this effort just to have a used abs pump fail because it sounds like the issue is actually the valves in the pump body that are the problem.
The "new" pump ran great and without issue. I drove that vehicle for about 3 years after this repair and did not have a problem.
Wonderfull mr. I have One Suzuki Liana. When i make breck and when the car is slow then is make a sound like for eksempel qer..qer..qer. a Lot of mekanik Saying that is from breck ring tone!but i Chuck all the ring tone is New and there is Nothing is brokken. Is this bez of this??? Like u chanched? Thanks
Thank you for this well done video. I've trying to find info on those ports for a few years. Have searched the internet over and over and have never found anything until now ! I have been slowly loosing fluid and it's always looked to me like it's coming out the one you show bad (moving the screw driver) . The dust cap has been gone on it for while , probably from fluid leaking through it ! ABS still works, although I don't like it anyway. But what the heck is that port for ? Obviously gonna have to replace the whole unit (bone yard here I come) . Have thought about getting rid of the ABS all together. Any thoughts on that ?
I live in Nebraska and we can have icy conditions on and off for 5 months straight. I like my ABS.
Would this possibly be the cause of my rear disc brakes tightening up as the truck warms? 2003 f150 reg cab 2wd 4.6 4 wheel abs.
@@FoxFaderWorld if you haven’t already figured it out, the problem is likely the master cylinder is being pushed off it’s seated position when bolted up. Any piece of linkage between the brake pedal and the master can cause it, but usually it’s a misadjusted booster pushrod. The way to tell is to unbolt the master from the booster while the situation is occurring, and if the problem goes away, that’s why. Figure out what’s pushing the master. Best of luck 🤞
To the OP. Those ports are accumulator chambers with a spring loaded piston inside. Whenever the ABS kicks in, these accumulators collect the fluid that is bled from the master cylinder under your foot pressure, as the system controls wheel spin by isolating and dumping the fluid into the accumulator to be returned to the system after the stop. Normally, they are blocked off by an internal solenoid but over time, they don’t completely seal, allowing the fluid under pressure to leak past. This slowly (or quickly!) compresses the piston and the pedal drops. In that instance, the good news is that the pistons can only travel so far, so when the accumulators are bottomed out, normal braking resumes, albeit without ABS. The caps on the openings are to keep junk out so the piston seals aren’t contaminated. Sounds like your piston seals are leaking externally now. Be safe!
@@mikemcleroy8265 I'll give it a shot. The Ford dealer I used to work at believes it's in the hcu. Not common, but Dusty stated when my problems come about, it's in the hcu.
My 2002 S10 has basically the same pump and it failed the same exact way. Pedal sinking, same test port moved with screwdriver in hole. With I had watched this video before I changed the master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and calipers....
Any luck with your repair?
What size fitting is it that holds the brake line. I am unable to find replacements
Question: Does the vehicle need to be running to test if the ABS pump has failed, or will the cylinder still react the same way with the car off.
No, the vehicle does not need to be running.
Bad wheel sensor on mine. Went to oreillys and they pulled the code. Amazon $21.
Did that sensor fix the problem?
Where can i buy dust boots ? One fell off and im leaking alot of break fluid through it
He is the best & 👁️mean the best if u can't follow what he said something is wrong with. U he broke this thing down like ah' 12 gauge shotgun & he broke it down like S-Laxs. Ah' 2yr old can understand this and I appreciate him very much he is Da'💩
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Did the new ABS module you installed need to be programmed?
No, I did not reprogram it.
Pretty sure I have a leak from the test ports on mine unless I’m just missing it leak from one of the lines. Also, will it need programmed at all once replaced, or is it just a slap it in and go kinda of deal?
I did no programming for this repair.
Was your ABS making a grinding noise or did you feel the vibrating noise when you put your hand on it before you replaced it?
Or was the ABS light on your dashboard?
I have a 2000 ford expedition 4.6L V8 Triton XLT and my ABS light came on and my ABS module is making a grinding noise and when I put my hand on top of the module I felt the vibrating noise coming from it. Does that mean it's my ABS module and ABS pump both need replacing?
As a female diy mechanic that's new to doing my own repairs. The only way to stop that grinding noise is I have to remove the 50 amp fuse.
By the way, my brakes are fine, no issues with them.
No grinding noise. No ABS light. I would suspect an issue with the module/pump.
@@InsaneOil okay. I have to find an ABS module then. They are hard to find.
@@flowersfam3462 I found mine off of a Ford Expedition of the same year range.
@@InsaneOil That's what I'm searching for, no luck yet.😔
What a genius this is exactly the problem I'm having
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Would this video be instructive for a 2001 F350 ABS replacement? Can’t find a video for that tuck on this topic.
I would imagine the process is very similar.
My pump is leaking out of one of the two cylinders. No abs light. Should I only get a pump? Or pump and module? I plan to go the salvage yard route.
I would recommend getting both of them as they are essentially one unit together
@@InsaneOil Thanks.
@@InsaneOil Is there no reprogramming involved?
@@bradh6185 I did no reprogramming whatsoever, what is shown is the video is the complete process I did.
@@InsaneOil Okay, thanks. I was talking with someone else on a different video. He said he had a Ford tech do his as side work. He said the tech used a computer for the bleeding process and reprogramming.
I have a doubt...my windstar 02 has the abs and brake lights on but I made the test with the thin screwdriver and it didn't move...so what can it be then? I already bought a used module...what should I have to check?
Could be a wheel sensor.
I'm seeing "flare nut" wrenches. Is that the right kind? It looks the same.
Should be the same thing
Man I am having a extremly frustrating time with my 2003 F350 4x4 6.0L power stroke I just got. When i got it there where no lights on or codes on the cluster. Well the brake rotor on the passenger side front would shimmy badly when i pressed the brakes as well as pull to the right real bad, so I knew I needed to do a brake job on my truck. So pulled it into my shop and proceeded to tear down my brakes on each wheel to figure out what all i was gonna need to get it done. Turns out I needed the front passenger side rotor which i just had turned at part store and it needed shoes all the way around as well as a new rear driver side caliper. Well at that moment in time I didnt have the funds to go out and by all that so the bad caliper I just left it off and blocked of the brake line to that side woth a 7/16 plug. Well I drove it like that the rest of the week and just about 2 days ago it just all of a sudden looses complete pedal. And my ABS Light comes and goes off and on, never stays on. So I went and finally bought what all i needed to get it fixed and bleed all the brake calipers all the way around and it still does the same thing as it did before I replaced all that. What do u think my problem is? Oh and the brakes still only seem to be grabing on the passenger side like before. But when I bleed the calipers im getting brake fluid, so I'm at a loss and confused unfortunately. Any tips or tricks that may help me out? Anybody?
Sounds like you might need to double check that all of your calipers are working properly and your brake pads are sliding in the hardware.
Yeah it wound up being the master cylinder
How do you keep your brake fluid reservoir so clean/clear?
I replaced the master cylinder prior to this repair ruclips.net/video/BFU41i8qvUo/видео.html
@@InsaneOil Oh okay.
I just pulled the fuse on my 2001 F 250 ABS. It was a 60 amp fuse. I can’t figure out why because no fuse diagram I can find shows a 60 amp in that position. Once I pulled it problem solved. I can drive without ABS. If you can’t maybe you shouldn’t be driving?
I just replaced my 60amp fuse in my 2001 e350 van reading your comment makes me want to remove my 60amp fuse I'm tired of seeing that light.
@@gerald542 Unfortunately the light will stay on. Cover it with a piece of electrical tape. 😂
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 😂
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 I'm tired of seeing it though. Hopefully I'll have it fixed tomorrow.
Hi, Would a ABS module and the proceedure be the same on a 2007 Ford f-150??? Thanks
It should be the same through the 2009 model.
im doing mine on a malibu maxx, does the ABS modeule has to be the same part number? becuase i bought one everthing is the same just the part numer is different.
It is possible the part number has changed. You can always verify by googling the part number and checking to see if it "fits" your vehicle or you can contact your local parts dealer.
Hey friend one question does that module need to be reprogrammed after you teplace it or the computer will relearn it without any problem
I did no reprogramming…plug and play.
And after, you went around and bled each caliper at each wheel as well? I'm asking because if I go this far, I may just do the brakes as part of it.
Yes, I bled each caliper at each wheel.
What socket size were the mounting bolts?
mine was left font wheel sensor. i went to oreillys and they pulled the code snd it showed left feknt wheel speed sensor. $21 on amazon.
Did that sensor fix the problem?
Do you conduct the test of the abs pump with the engine running or off?
Either way
Excellent tutorial, many thanks.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Best video on RUclips thank you sir ,👍
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
A great HOW TO VIDEO THANK! ❤
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Hi... does the engine have to be running to do the screwdriver way to test the ABS ?
No.
@@InsaneOil thank you
I changed all that part for one that I bought at the junkyard and now that I installed it I have the abs on, what do I do to turn it off?
Can you clarify what you mean by "the abs on". Is it a light that is on or the actual pump/system?
@@InsaneOil the pump if it worked for me and eliminated the problem. but if I had to put the old circuits because my computer did not recognize the other circuits that came in the pump.
@@InsaneOil when i put the pump with all the circuits my truck turned on the abs light on my dashboard because it didn't recognize the system and i had to put the old circuits to the yonke pump and now it worked. also the abs light went off.
@@InsaneOil but thanks for those steps I saved a lot of money and I learned in mechanics I also learned to bleed brakes for the first time!
@@george3156306 Sounds like a successful repair.
I have f150 2003 and the part you change is hot and make a noise. When the truck is off
Is your ABS light on? I have read that if the ABS relay is sticking it will buzz when the ignition key is turned to the off position. If you lightly tap the top of the ABS relay and it stops buzzing, you may have found the culprit.
Do I need to reprogram the computer are I don’t have to do anything after replacing it
I did not reprogram anything after replacing.
What if screw driver doesn’t move when you do the test?? Is it the module itself??
If the pedal sinks (rather than just being spongy) but the screwdriver doesn't move. There is still a chance it is the pump. The pump is mechanical (compared to the module being electric) so if the vehicle is turned off and the brake pedal still sinks, it is probably the pump.
Great video. I recently replaced all 4 rotors, calipers, pads and lines. Now I have a sinking pedal. Bled LOTS of brake fluid but the pedal still sank. Bled the ABS and still had the problem. Tried a new master cylinder but that didn't help. After watching your video I replaced the ABS pump with a used pump. I still have problem. Do I need to bleed the the lower lines from the master cylinder to the ABS? If not, any other ideas? This is crushing my spirit.
Any luck? Did you do the screwdriver test on the old ABS pump? Have you done it on the "new" (used) pump. I was concerned that if I put a salvage yard pump on then it might have the same issue. I lucked out and got a good one.
Something to consider is that the calipers might be interchangeable side to side, but the result is that the bleeders might be on the bottom now. So when you go to bleed it, you’ll never be able to get all the air out. Air rises in fluid! Ask me how I know… 😂
@@mikemcleroy8265 the bleeders are supposed to be on the bottom.
@@jamescahill3390 Right. And air sinks in a liquid.
@@mikemcleroy8265 You are my hero!!! Thanks for your post. I just completed a rear brake job on a 2000 F-150. New lines, calipers, pads. But I couldn't get a hard brake pedal. Strange, sure wasn't squishy like that before. Being the cautious type, I had even insisted the counter guy label the caliper boxes left/right for me before leaving the store. And I am quite certain I installed them as labeled. Even bought a Foxwell 630 Plus and bled the ABS system. That fixed about half the problem. Was about to give up when I saw your post. What you wrote made sense. My bleed ports were on the bottom. So...I swapped the calipers so bleed ports were on top. Rebled the ABS pump and both back wheels. BAM, PROBLEM SOLVED! You have to know I was about to tear the last of my hair out! Now, thanks to you, I still have some stragglers left around the edges. So glad you spoke up. Thank you!
How did you find it was the abs and not rhe master cylinder?
I replace the master cylinder first and it did not solve it so I did more research
@@InsaneOil ah ok, im affraid to replace parts I dont need to
I just bought a 2000 f150 & I was checking the fuses under hood & the one for the the abs was missing so I put one & pump or module started making noise,so I removed it,brakes work good.will it be OK?
It sounds like the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) may be failing. I would recommend replacing it similar to what I did in the video.
Does the engine have to be running for this test, or is it strictly mechanical ?
I found it to be more accurate for the testing to have it running, I just did mine 6/26/20
Should work either way.
I own a 2001 f150 lightning ! There’s no brake fluid running to my front right caliper. I check all my lines. When I disconnected the front right caliper brake line from the abs pump and hit the brake. No fluid came out! However it did come out from the rest of the brake lines. And the master cylinder works fine!! I’m stuck :/ not sure what’s wrong. Maybe the module?
On your caliper, did you loosen your bleed screw or completely remove it when you did this test. It is possible that the port is clogged with dirt.
Insane Oil I discovered the issue. It was the ABS pump. I had it replaced now everything works fine! Thank you
@@mcbust8143 Hi. I have the identical problem on my 2003 L and have trouble shot it and I need the abs pump too. Sounds like you had it worked on at a shop. Do you know where the part came from? Thanks
@@ronmathis9020 hey i figured out the issue. Turns out it was the abs pump! What I did I looked up a junk yard and found the same generation f150. It was a supercrew. However all the pumps are the same and are interchangeable. I removed it, took it home. Cleaned up and just swapped it. I then did a brake fluid flush because once I removed the pump, air enters the brakes lines. After the swap everything worked perfectly!
@@mcbust8143 Hey man thanks for the reply that’s a big help but I got a couple more questions
Does your ABS have three lines at the top and two at the bottom I have a fair amount of experience and I know some super serious Ford guys and our trucks were new according to them we have three wheel ABS two of those lines go to the left and right front wheels and the third line goes to the rear axle and the bottom two lines come off the master cylinder. My issues people I see selling the ones that look exactly like mine with three lines at the top two at the bottom or saying therefore will they be S which conflicts with what I know any input would be appreciated thank you again
Is this a 2 wheel or 4?
4 wheel drive
anyone ever drill and tap that test port where the screwdriver comes out from and place a bolt in it so it can't come out?
I think that would stop the sinking pedal, but render the ABS inoperative on that circuit. It's possible that it would cause other problems, I'm not sure what the function of that piston is so locking it in could cause a lockup or something else.
I've done something similar on the older Fords with rear abs, take the spring out of the accumulator and the piston locks out. No more mushy pedal, but no more ABS function. The opinion of many people is that that system doesn't work very well anyway and disabling it does more good than harm.
@@DonziGT230 my ABS has never worked anyways. The truck has 270K on it so its not much of a worry to me.
I could care less about ABS. Just hate the sinking peddle every time I come to a stop. I may try this. I was hoping just removing the fuse would also make this happen.
i have 2004 F250 5.4L 4x4 the abs control module make a grinding noise.. do I need to replace the module with the pump?
Lucia Aguirre Does it make the grinding noise all the time when you brake?
Insane Oil No only when you turn the ignition on. Then it doesn’t grind anymore. Breaks work fine and no abs light on.
Insane Oil Only when turning the ignition key on. Then it doesn’t make it anymore. The ABS light is off.
@@luciaaguirre416 Not sure if this thread will help but it is not uncommon of a problem. www.ford-trucks.com/forums/513032-abs-pump-makes-noise-01-f250-cc.html
The system cycles every time you turn the key on, the noise it makes is described differently by different people. Some say it's a grunt, or fart, or grind, or... I can't say yours is not defective without hearing it, but they're supposed to make a noise at every key on cycle so it's probably fine. Best I can suggest is to find a similar year Ford truck and see what theirs sounds like as a comparison.
Many people don't ever notice the sound because they're starting the engine about the time that the ABS cycles so asking around might yield no help, unless you ask a diesel owner. As a 7.3 power stroke owner I know the sound well because it does it as I'm waiting for the glow plugs to heat up. With my gas Ford trucks I rarely heard the sound because I was usually starting the engine and that drowned out the sound.
Does the part number needs to be the same?
Scroll the video to 1:17...there are several different part numbers for the same thing. What I listed may not be a complete list either.
Which lines go where? I bought a 99 F150 that someone replaced the lines on. I believe they didn't plumb it right as I have good pedal feel, but no brakes. (As in no fluid going to the wheels)
My pump just started running even when the truck is turned off abs light is on in my 2001 f150
It is not an unusual problem to occur in F150s and Expeditions of that era. ruclips.net/video/GnHGfb6dFVk/видео.html
If replace my pump and module do I need to run a scan tool to reset module ? I now have a break light on.
I did not run a scan tool to reset the module.
Very professional video.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
It's a great vedeo 👌 I think is a similar like on FORD excursión 🤔
If I remember correctly, I actually pulled this part off of an Excursion. Almost identical setup.
did you have to take it to ford to clear any warnings when you finished? I have to replace my abs pump and module but its sounding like only the dealership can actually clear the codes and bleed the lines with their "computer" i feel like im being rinsed
I had no codes show up nor did I clear any codes through this process. This was the first time I have had to perform this repair on a vehicle. Perhaps the ford mechanics watching this can weigh in on this one in the comment section.
I think this depends on the year of your vehicle. My 2010 f150 5.4 needs the VIN and a whole bunch of other parameters coded into the new ABS computer or else I get multiple codes. In fact they need the old computer to upload previous values using genuine IDS software and a VCM II module ($$$$). There is also a brake bleed function in the IDS software also. Older vehicles may not require this.
@@MrZoikel I got all the way through the swap of the ABS unit, bled the brakes and cleared all codes except one which was new. A miss matching vin# from the new module that was being found had to be reprogrammed by the dealer and thats it...=) I took my $2200 dollar quote down to $142
What is the purpose of those ports?
Someone can correct me if I am wrong but I believe the name of the ports are the dump valve and isolation valve. www.tomorrowstechnician.com/understanding-abs-modulator-problems/
What happens if you round one of those connections? I round the 13mm on the replacement part I got now Im concerned I will do it on the good brakelines
Well explained along with real works on it.Bingo!!!!
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
If we could only just bypass the whole ABS system and the younger generations could learn to drive on slick roads without it!
Thanks buddy 😊
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
A masterfully instruction video.thank you
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Its not good practice to use a oil based oil around brake components. If it gets into the system, it could cause rubber components to swell.
Agreed, and thanks for the comment. I assume you are referring to 1:55 in the video when I am using penetrating oil to remove the rusty fittings from the old unit. Do you have an alternative solution that you recommend? I am interested.
@@InsaneOil I wish I did. Not much available.
really good video here
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
You don't have to reprogram the module?
No, I did not reprogram the module.
All I want to say is DUST! BOOT!
Gracias por la buena información compañero es de gran ayuda
Gracias por el comentario. Buena suerte con tu reparación.
Don't forget to have it flashed when replacing one of these
I did nothing beyond what was shown in this repair video.
Great job 👍🏼
شرح تفصيلي راقي شكرا لك
شكرا لك على التعليق. حظا سعيدا مع الإصلاح.
Great video!
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Real good video
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
The car has to be on with the test of putting something in the pump
I don't think I had it turned on. The pedal would sink even when the vehicle was off.
@@InsaneOil ok Thanks for answering sorry for my bad english
Pro-tip, put video on 2x speed
Or you could get really crazy and put it on .25 speed.
Great chanel ! Thanks
Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated.
I loved the video Olson :)
No ABS light on
I did not have an ABS light on prior to or after this repair.
Pop the hood, glad you told me that, come on!
I teach to all levels of learners.
thank You.
You are welcome. Good luck with your repair.