I had a sometimes sinking brake pedal on my Mazda 5. I decided to go out and do some Panic braking to see if that would fix it. Really slamming the brakes of the ABS was activated probably eight times. The brake pedal hasn't sunk since
Incredible!!!! Today I was just thinking about you people that invest info into RUclips for the American public. My wife pump stays on with the key off and kills her battery. I never seen a unit like this before until now. I Thank My Dear GOD for you people that learn things and share. Now I will try to share what I've learned, especially things I have learned that is not already on RUclips or if not done easier than my technic. I did not think this unit would be here but..... Thx.
I replaced the master cylinder last year on my wifes Windstar for a sinking pedal condition i got lucky because thats what it was. The van does have ABS. Just the other day the symptom returned and i believe it is the stuck dump valve on the ABS unit this time. I will do the test Ford says in the factory manual for the ABS (Hydraulic Control Unit) to be sure. Yes the lines can be a bear. I had to replace some on my dads '03 LeSaber abs...what a pain in the backside.
@Nathan Rohrbough .Nathan, on my grandson's 2003 Blazer, Although I was able to keep the ABS Light off after I hose clamped a rub-hole in the line that goes to the right front caliper. Once I replaced that line, the pedal remains spongy. After seeing a minor leak at the new line fittings, I'm convinced that the parts store gave me the wrong type of fittings on a stock piece of line. If there's no leaking going on in the morning after driving it 3 miles, I'll replace the pump. Thanks for the video & your comments if you think I'm heading in the right direction.
Easy Cheap fix , I threaded both of those ports with a 1/4 20 tap and then I cut a drill bit 1 inch long (1/4 inch drill bit) and put it in the holes and then put a 1/4 20 bolt in the newly threaded hole and tighten it snugly with thread lock on it. Pedal is firm and never fades .
Having the same problem on my 2007 Expedition. ABS light on. Put on all new rotors and pads, and bled the system. Worked good for a few days and then the soft pedal and ABS light came back. I will have to try this. I believe it is the same as yours. Thanks!
Yes! Funny thing is I never got a ABS light. You can have a bad ABS wheel sensor and get a ABS light...but that's has nothing to do with the ABS pump (That is really the issue in most cases for a sinking pedal) Let us know what the fix is so other people can read your story and have hope!
Internally collapsed brake lines.... I've seen it a few times in the past. When you release the brake pedal, the vacuum that pulls the fluid back into the reservoir collapses the inside of the rubber brake line. When you bleed them you will see a reduced stream of brake fluid. Good luck!
If you think about it, how often does the ABS system actually see action? From year to year, probably never, so no wonder the valves can stick! So in the interest of maintenance, it might be prudent to occasionally force the ABS system into action with some aggressive braking. Just a thought!
You are right. Also brake fluid over time will slowly break down and cause issues on seals and valves. I was just reading a NTSB report about the lack of fluid changing/flushing in braking systems....that rarely get done. Thanks for your comment!
TVWXMAN32 just had an issue where the rear brakes on my Celica were pretty weak. We explored all options, i.e. rebuild master and calipers, new material etc. Then I thought, could be sticking valves in ABS pump. Took her out and repeatedly smashed the brakes at speed. Guess what? The faults disappeared!
Hi My 2007 RX 350 brake padel sink down, the master cylinder was changed two times still same issue, Can I remove ABS fuses to see if it works with out it? Thanks
Do you know which output line goes to which caliper? My 97 Expedition is in need of a brake line overhaul and the Ford manuals are basically worthless in this area.
His problem was in the brake pressure modulator valve assembly, not in the controlling electronics. A fault in the electronics will throw a code & turn on ABS light on the dash.
The wrenches are called flare nut or line wrenches. They are a must when working on brake line and or fuel lines. They do come in Std. and Metric. Most parts stores sell them and they do not cost that much. Keep in mind you can not replace just the nut part if you round it off.
Keep in mind that the makes of flare nut wrenches typically sold at parts stores, are low quality junk with excessive play in their sizing and some, even metal too soft so deform at torque.
Man i do have an winsdtar 99 and the brake pedal goes all way to the flor i check all lines,master cylinder,the booster and nothing wrong with them it lefth only to check is the abs pump and components..do you recommend me anything before i do that please i need help.
I am wondering how you can get any form of insurance after removing the ABS. I am in Australia and this is illegal and instantly negates ALL vehicle insurance. Have an accident and loose you house
I heard heating brake lines could cause them to explode. So i never tried using heat to remove the lines. Old lines never have come off for me so i cut them up as standard. I will try this while wearing safety glasses. Thanks.
Tightly focus the heat on the nut, and first drain the brake fluid out of the line. It's sometimes easier to use an induction heater rather than a torch, but if you have the line there then you don't have a way to put the induction heater coil around the nut, unless you cut the line first because you planned on replacing it anyway, which it could be due for if there's excessive rust on it, lower in its run to the wheels.
Shouldn't feel also the pulsation of the brake pedal? I think my car has the ABS system broken, because I don't feel any pulsation of the pedal, even if I strongly press the brake pedal under ice conditions... It is possible the ABS to be in good condition, even if the brake pedal doesn't pulsate? GREAT VIDEO!!
Having this same issue. Shop replaced master cylinder and cleared the lines. Do u recommend replacing both module and pump? Also did you have to program computer afterwards?
Ok but I need to know how to get rid of it and hook back, up the brake lines. So no more ABS which was made for jet airplanes. I don't need it on my chevy.
5 brake lines plus 3 bolts on the ABS pump’s frame, plus one electrical plug is all that holds it on. Leave the 2 bolts that connects the ABS pump to the ABS pump frame tight. Do not separate the ABS pump with it’s frame
I have a ford and suffered the same affliction of soft sinking brake pedal with no ABS light. Anyway, I bought on Ebay for $150 the ABS unit and put it on. I also put a rebuilt master cylinder in (before buying new ABS unit). After bleeding the system, I got the same symptoms as prior, with nothing getting better. I did now get an ABS light on. My ABS scan tool says 'pump circuit failure' . Perhaps it was not the unit after all but perhaps the connection to it, being that same problem still exist. So, I have not a clue on what next to do. Thinking of putting the wheels on and getting some temp plates to take it to Ford and pay them to diagnose it. I did that for my Subaru. I paid them $56 to tell me what it needs and I brought it home and did the work myself.
I got a bad used ABS unit one time also. Went back got a 3rd one and fixed the issue. Maybe that unit is bad just like mine was. Uses parts sometimes are all ready bad giving you that "WHY" Syndrome.
Perhaps, I am wondering, could a bad brake booster create a sinking pedal problem? The car stops but pedal is near floor to do so. After i replaced the ABS unit (used from ebay), the problem is still there, no difference, Not better nor worse. Its hard to find ABS for my lincoln. Not many of them out there.
@@Romulan112 No, a bad brake booster will just dramatically increase the force needed to push in the brake pedal, the opposite of what you're seeing. You have air in the system somewhere, unless there's a leak and you haven't noticed the puddle yet. Bleed all lines at the wheel, furthest from the ABS module first and so on.
I have an issue with 2007 expedition when i apply brakes they almost stay stuck it releases sometimes but i can feel it when im driving ive change booster,calipers,brakes even put on a new master cylinder and still has this issue can someone help me thanks in advance
Old comment but I just went through this on my 05. I can almost guarantee that it's the rubber brake lines going to your calipers. I threw a bunch of parts on mine trying to fix then I can't across a video on here explaining it. It's your rubber lines that are clogged!
Do you have a link for the cost of the pump I have a 2001 Ford excursion v10....had brakes before I CHANGED the calipers and caliper bracket and pads bleeded the brakes 4 times and now my break pedal sinks to the BASEMENT....how the HELL did this go out just because I CHANGED those parts...
@@flowrob6861 thanks but I checked the abs unit...put nail in hole it did not move at all so abs is working perfect it has to be none other than the DAM break booster..but again I had breaks I took the DAM truck to AutoZone WENT home changed all that shit bleed it 4 times and it sinks to the other side of the planet...so I have been driving it but like an old lady sorry old lady ...as long as I pump the breaks before I anticipate my STOP brakes work...if I DON'T pre-pump I will run over who ever the HELL is in front....
Where can you get one of these abs modules?? I checked RockAuto and my local AutoZone and Advance, but no one even has this part listed. I have a 98 F150 and just changed the master cylinder, but still have very soft brakes that go to the floor. Any help would be appreciated.
Hey man i do have an ford windstar 95 that the brake pedal goes all the way down i checked and not find any leak even checked the 4 cylinders from each tire and also the master cylinder and finally the relays and fuses they all good how i can tell if the pump or any the component went bad?i need help please.
my 2001 lincoln navigator has had 3 master cylinders replaced. Mechanic thought maybe it was the cause of my pedal sinking to the floor. Still doing it. Seems to fall to the floor when braking lightly, or at full stop. ABS module has no codes. Is this still a possible reason?
thank you. I bought a new oem brake cylinder thinking the one's they put on were crap. I will try a new pump. Need to bleed after that's removed, right?
Sinking brake pedal is caused by the dump valve in the abs valve module. Unfortunately there is no rebuild kit and you can't by the valve block by itself. Remember mechanics repair technicians replace.
A faulty/sticking valve in the pump assembly allows brake fluid to flow in a circle, from master-to inlet valve-back to master cylinder--instead of forcing it down to the caliper. When ABS is not engaging, it should flow from master-to inlet valve-blocked by outlet/dump valve-forced to caliper. Imagine a syringe with a hose on the end. if it only goes from point a to point b, there is always pressure. Add a tee to that hose on the syringe, allowing fluid to flow a litt;e through the tee and a little down the hose, dramatically reduces pressure, and thats the best i can explain it.
Hey man,on my car pedal get normal resistance when car offbut when i start car it hoes straight to the floor,no resistance at all,was it like that for your car? Ive got no abs light but diagnosis says brake module and ecu communication error,also tried yo activate abs pump with diagnostic tool,its a 2006 volvo v50 maybe its me but shouldnt abs pumps emit quit the sound when activated? Hear no sound,but diagnostic says nothing abouy faulty abs,just brake module doesnt communicate with ecu,thoughts?
Hello i had a sinking pedal. I replaced the mastercylinder and the brake booster. That fixed the sinking petal. I drove the car (2007 ford edge) For about a hour then the front brakes locked up i let it sit till it cooled down then it did it again. I'm thinking tis has went bad but what's weird is it was fine before the sinking petal not even 24hrs later it started locking up.. Also how hard is it to bleed this do i have to bleed it at the wheels or can i bench bleed it with a bleeder pump?.
It sounds like the brake booster pushrod length needed to be checked specially with an all new parts. Also, some misguided shops and Do it yourselves, sometimes adjust the rod behind the pedal which should never be touched for a low brake pedal. If someone messed with the brake rod, it also messes with the booster rod and throws every thing off. This causes the brake fluid to never fully release and becomes trapped after the master cylinder and returns to normal after a cooling off period.
Stupid response, I understand tpms but abs is more than braking, its stability also, that can control each wheel, ent see no car with 4 brake pedal to control each wheel individually
Thank you for your video, I fix my 2005 toyota highlander by following your instruction, I wasted money on master cylinder, but by replacing the ABS pump fixed it👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Phillip beaupre, did you ever change out the abs pump? Did it fix it, I'm having sme problem on my 95 jamboree on e350 chassis , off they are nice and hard , soon as I turn the key it sinks to floor, I suspect the abs pump but can't seem to find a replacement, my model numbers show no results anywhere
Just thought I'd let you know, those are "TUBING WRENCHES", not brake wrenches. If you go to and auto-parts store and ask for brake wrenches, they are going to show you the wrenches to remove the springs on shoes and the expander on a disc brake caliper. :-)
2 things.... how the heck do you change the wiring out because it's not an obvious thing... something can get broken?!!!?!! 2. why the heck didn't you show how to take it off WHILE IT WAS IN THE DANG CAR??? I have a mercury mountaineer and the setup is close to the car in the video, but I have no space to get bolt on the front end of the abs system, AND I ENDED UP BREAKING THE BOLT!!! I WOULD HAVE LIKED TO SEE IF THERE WAS ANOTHER WAY TO AROUND THAT, BUT NOW ITS TOO LATE!!!
That’s it all that to take it off be for real and replace it then bleed that abs block cause there’s going to be hard to get air out unless you got a auto brake bleed scan tool your not going to bleed that abs block without one so good luck with all that your a not a teacher I would take advise from
Easy Cheap fix , I threaded both of those ports with a 1/4 20 tap and then I cut a drill bit 1 inch long (1/4 inch drill bit) and put it in the holes and then put a 1/4 20 bolt in the newly threaded hole and tighten it snugly with thread lock on it. Pedal is firm and never fades .
This sounds like a real good fix that will last . If you got Time maybe you can communicate with me on the details more in depth I have two modules so I can preform both or if I mess up thanks again
@@anthonyedwards6077 All I did was find a tap and run it down in the hole about 2 1/2 inches , cleaning out the chips as I went, then measured with a smaller drill bit the rough depth to the bottom hole and subtracted 1 and a half inches and cut an old drill bit that amount and stuck it in the hole first so it would slide down into the hole then I put some thread lock on the bolt and screwed it in till it hit the drill bit. (not real tight , just till it stops) You could also use a longer bolt with a nut on it and use that to lock the bolt in place if you don't want to use thread lock. I just used 1/4 20 cause that is what I found first in my box , you could use 1/4 18 or what ever you have , some ports may be slightly smaller or slightly bigger , you could even use a metric tap once you find the size of the hole, then find a bolt and lock nut. I guess if you have a bottom tap long enough you could go all the way down with threads and just use a long enough bolt to hit bottom, maybe grind off 1/2 inch of the bolt threads to substitute as the drill bit spacer. Anymore questions , just ask.
usautoserviceinc hey bro , my ports are 21/4 deep , is the objective to drill to the bottom of port or past the bottom ? And the drill bit spacer is this just because you did have a bolt long enough ? Or does there need to be a void of some short at bottom ?? Thanks again
I had a sometimes sinking brake pedal on my Mazda 5. I decided to go out and do some Panic braking to see if that would fix it. Really slamming the brakes of the ABS was activated probably eight times. The brake pedal hasn't sunk since
An “Italian tune up” for the brakes.
@@WiliamShattner lol now I'm used to it.
Pump just needed to burp 😂
Incredible!!!! Today I was just thinking about you people that invest info into RUclips for the American public. My wife pump stays on with the key off and kills her battery. I never seen a unit like this before until now. I Thank My Dear GOD for you people that learn things and share. Now I will try to share what I've learned, especially things I have learned that is not already on RUclips or if not done easier than my technic. I did not think this unit would be here but..... Thx.
I replaced the master cylinder last year on my wifes Windstar for a sinking pedal condition i got lucky because thats what it was. The van does have ABS. Just the other day the symptom returned and i believe it is the stuck dump valve on the ABS unit this time. I will do the test Ford says in the factory manual for the ABS (Hydraulic Control Unit) to be sure. Yes the lines can be a bear. I had to replace some on my dads '03 LeSaber abs...what a pain in the backside.
Awesome 👍 job
@Nathan Rohrbough .Nathan, on my grandson's 2003 Blazer, Although I was able to keep the ABS Light off after I hose clamped a rub-hole in the line that goes to the right front caliper. Once I replaced that line, the pedal remains spongy. After seeing a minor leak at the new line fittings, I'm convinced that the parts store gave me the wrong type of fittings on a stock piece of line. If there's no leaking going on in the morning after driving it 3 miles, I'll replace the pump. Thanks for the video & your comments if you think I'm heading in the right direction.
Nice!!
Easy Cheap fix , I threaded both of those ports with a 1/4 20 tap and
then I cut a drill bit 1 inch long (1/4 inch drill bit) and put it in
the holes and then put a 1/4 20 bolt in the newly threaded hole and
tighten it snugly with thread lock on it. Pedal is firm and never fades
.
Good video, couldnt figure how to get the clip off the abs module
Nice!!
When you installed the new ABS pump, what steps did you take to remove the air from the system?
Thank you for the video.
Just pump the pedal until it gets hard. That's what i did.
@@FixingWithPassion Thank you. I will try that when my pump arrives.
How did you bleed the new one? Everything I'm finding indicates you have to use a scanner type tool that activates the ABS to bleed it.
Nope. You don't need one. I've never used one. Just bleed it at the wheel...some autos maybe, even I find that hard to believe. I'm living proof ;)
@@FixingWithPassion what about the programming part or is that not necessarily?
Having the same problem on my 2007 Expedition. ABS light on. Put on all new rotors and pads, and bled the system. Worked good for a few days and then the soft pedal and ABS light came back. I will have to try this. I believe it is the same as yours. Thanks!
Yes! Funny thing is I never got a ABS light. You can have a bad ABS wheel sensor and get a ABS light...but that's has nothing to do with the ABS pump (That is really the issue in most cases for a sinking pedal) Let us know what the fix is so other people can read your story and have hope!
Ray Calandra did you fix yoir car? what was the problem? please i have same problem with ABS
Internally collapsed brake lines.... I've seen it a few times in the past. When you release the brake pedal, the vacuum that pulls the fluid back into the reservoir collapses the inside of the rubber brake line. When you bleed them you will see a reduced stream of brake fluid.
Good luck!
Did you have to reprogram the abs unit or was it plug and play
Nope. P and P.
My '95 Ford Contour pedal sinks. I have a new master cylinder but if that doesn't fix it I'll look to the ABS pump. Fingers crossed!
Let us know if it fixes it. You will help folks also by passing your results!
If you think about it, how often does the ABS system actually see action? From year to year, probably never, so no wonder the valves can stick! So in the interest of maintenance, it might be prudent to occasionally force the ABS system into action with some aggressive braking. Just a thought!
You are right. Also brake fluid over time will slowly break down and
cause issues on seals and valves. I was just reading a NTSB report about
the lack of fluid changing/flushing in braking systems....that rarely
get done. Thanks for your comment!
TVWXMAN32 just had an issue where the rear brakes on my Celica were pretty weak. We explored all options, i.e. rebuild master and calipers, new material etc. Then I thought, could be sticking valves in ABS pump. Took her out and repeatedly smashed the brakes at speed. Guess what? The faults disappeared!
yeah no doubt man. often overlooked for sure.
Same thing with your T- case (4X4). Just shift into Four wheel drive once a month
@Foghorn Leghorn I know they run the pump at startup (for power up self test) but I don't know if the valves are tested too.
just wondering if you pull the ABS fuse out, will the brake fade go away as you are not using the ABS sytem
No. I wish. I've tried that lots of times...it never works (for me)
How do you bleed these?
use an abs code tool that will turn on the abs pump. 200 bucks amazon for the low cost units.
Hi
My 2007 RX 350 brake padel sink down, the master cylinder was changed two times still same issue, Can I remove ABS fuses to see if it works with out it?
Thanks
No taking out the fuse wont help unfortunately.
@@FixingWithPassion if I take the fuse out won’t it by pass the ABS? I want to do that to see if the brake sink with out abs.
Do you know which output line goes to which caliper? My 97 Expedition is in need of a brake line overhaul and the Ford manuals are basically worthless in this area.
lol
After I replaced it . Do I have to bleed the system again?
Duh how else you gonna have brakes
You always bleed the brakes any time you open the system.
why couldn't you have just taken the module of itself? the black sensor held on by 4 bolts looks like?
His problem was in the brake pressure modulator valve assembly, not in the controlling electronics. A fault in the electronics will throw a code & turn on ABS light on the dash.
Ia sinking brake pedal different than spongy brakes?
Where did u buy ur abs pump
The wrenches are called flare nut or line wrenches. They are a must when working on brake line and or fuel lines. They do come in Std. and Metric. Most parts stores sell them and they do not cost that much. Keep in mind you can not replace just the nut part if you round it off.
Yea, I stay away form coffee when using them...lol The call me Mr round-off.
heat them up a little and they come off like butter
Roger! That's a big 10-4~
Keep in mind that the makes of flare nut wrenches typically sold at parts stores, are low quality junk with excessive play in their sizing and some, even metal too soft so deform at torque.
Man i do have an winsdtar 99 and the brake pedal goes all way to the flor i check all lines,master cylinder,the booster and nothing wrong with them it lefth only to check is the abs pump and components..do you recommend me anything before i do that please i need help.
Change the ABS pump
What year is your Expedition?
Thanks for your videos. How long did the abs module take to swap out?
How did you know it was the abs and not the master cylinder
Experience
I am wondering how you can get any form of insurance after removing the ABS. I am in Australia and this is illegal and instantly negates ALL vehicle insurance. Have an accident and loose you house
I heard heating brake lines could cause them to explode. So i never tried using heat to remove the lines. Old lines never have come off for me so i cut them up as standard. I will try this while wearing safety glasses. Thanks.
Hope it works.
You don't need that much heat, and it is directed at the tube nut, not the line. Works frequently.
Tightly focus the heat on the nut, and first drain the brake fluid out of the line. It's sometimes easier to use an induction heater rather than a torch, but if you have the line there then you don't have a way to put the induction heater coil around the nut, unless you cut the line first because you planned on replacing it anyway, which it could be due for if there's excessive rust on it, lower in its run to the wheels.
Shouldn't feel also the pulsation of the brake pedal?
I think my car has the ABS system broken, because I don't feel any pulsation of the pedal, even if I strongly press the brake pedal under ice conditions...
It is possible the ABS to be in good condition, even if the brake pedal doesn't pulsate?
GREAT VIDEO!!
恐怖醫學
Did you replace the module or the pump? Or both?
Having this same issue. Shop replaced master cylinder and cleared the lines. Do u recommend replacing both module and pump? Also did you have to program computer afterwards?
Well for me, the pump and module was one unit. As for programing...never had to do that.
Did u use a used abs pump and module
Ok but I need to know how to get rid of it and hook back, up the brake lines. So no more ABS which was made for jet airplanes. I don't need it on my chevy.
5 brake lines plus
3 bolts on the ABS pump’s frame, plus
one electrical plug
is all that holds it on.
Leave the 2 bolts that connects the ABS pump to the ABS pump frame tight. Do not separate the ABS pump with it’s frame
Why do you say this? Just because it's extra work or...?
I have a ford and suffered the same affliction of soft sinking brake pedal with no ABS light. Anyway, I bought on Ebay for $150 the ABS unit and put it on. I also put a rebuilt master cylinder in (before buying new ABS unit). After bleeding the system, I got the same symptoms as prior, with nothing getting better. I did now get an ABS light on. My ABS scan tool says 'pump circuit failure' . Perhaps it was not the unit after all but perhaps the connection to it, being that same problem still exist. So, I have not a clue on what next to do. Thinking of putting the wheels on and getting some temp plates to take it to Ford and pay them to diagnose it. I did that for my Subaru. I paid them $56 to tell me what it needs and I brought it home and did the work myself.
I got a bad used ABS unit one time also. Went back got a 3rd one and
fixed the issue. Maybe that unit is bad just like mine was. Uses parts
sometimes are all ready bad giving you that "WHY" Syndrome.
Perhaps, I am wondering, could a bad brake booster create a sinking pedal problem? The car stops but pedal is near floor to do so. After i replaced the ABS unit (used from ebay), the problem is still there, no difference, Not better nor worse. Its hard to find ABS for my lincoln. Not many of them out there.
@@Romulan112 No, a bad brake booster will just dramatically increase the force needed to push in the brake pedal, the opposite of what you're seeing.
You have air in the system somewhere, unless there's a leak and you haven't noticed the puddle yet. Bleed all lines at the wheel, furthest from the ABS module first and so on.
I have an issue with 2007 expedition when i apply brakes they almost stay stuck it releases sometimes but i can feel it when im driving ive change booster,calipers,brakes even put on a new master cylinder and still has this issue can someone help me thanks in advance
Not the pedal but the brakes are staying somewhat applied
Im about to change abs pump does anyone know if this will fix my issue
Old comment but I just went through this on my 05. I can almost guarantee that it's the rubber brake lines going to your calipers. I threw a bunch of parts on mine trying to fix then I can't across a video on here explaining it. It's your rubber lines that are clogged!
@@trashin.n.smashin ...and collapsing internally
Do you have a link for the cost of the pump I have a 2001 Ford excursion v10....had brakes before I CHANGED the calipers and caliper bracket and pads bleeded the brakes 4 times and now my break pedal sinks to the BASEMENT....how the HELL did this go out just because I CHANGED those parts...
All that work & it may have been Out to start . Used abs unit on Ebay / Amazon . Videos on how to test it in car .
@@flowrob6861 thanks but I checked the abs unit...put nail in hole it did not move at all so abs is working perfect it has to be none other than the DAM break booster..but again I had breaks I took the DAM truck to AutoZone WENT home changed all that shit bleed it 4 times and it sinks to the other side of the planet...so I have been driving it but like an old lady sorry old lady ...as long as I pump the breaks before I anticipate my STOP brakes work...if I DON'T pre-pump I will run over who ever the HELL is in front....
Where can you get one of these abs modules?? I checked RockAuto and my local AutoZone and Advance, but no one even has this part listed. I have a 98 F150 and just changed the master cylinder, but still have very soft brakes that go to the floor. Any help would be appreciated.
Salvage yard...e-bay used
Maybe a junk yard
@@ministerstayfly9213 ALSO, you can send your original in and have it rebuilt.
Hey man i do have an ford windstar 95 that the brake pedal goes all the way down i checked and not find any leak even checked the 4 cylinders from each tire and also the master cylinder and finally the relays and fuses they all good how i can tell if the pump or any the component went bad?i need help please.
Time to replace the abs module or get robbed at the brake shop
Good info. Got the same issue. How much brake fluid can I expect to have come out when disconnecting the old pump?
Not that much...1/2 pint....get some rags;)
my 2001 lincoln navigator has had 3 master cylinders replaced. Mechanic thought maybe it was the cause of my pedal sinking to the floor. Still doing it. Seems to fall to the floor when braking lightly, or at full stop. ABS module has no codes. Is this still a possible reason?
Jamey Magee ...Yes! I had no codes either. To this day I'm still driving my expedition with perfect brakes after replacing my ABS pump.
mechanic said he tested the abs module and was good
thank you. I bought a new oem brake cylinder thinking the one's they put on were crap. I will try a new pump. Need to bleed after that's removed, right?
Sorry, one last question. Pedal sinks whether motor is running or not. Still abs suspect?
Yes! Mine did the same thing. I got a used one for $40 at a local junk yard. Let us know when you fixed.
Sinking brake pedal is caused by the dump valve in the abs valve module. Unfortunately there is no rebuild kit and you can't by the valve block by itself. Remember mechanics repair technicians replace.
Thank you. Great info to share.
So your brake pedal was sinking because ABS pump was faulty? What inside the ABS pump would cause the pedal to sink?
Check valves
A faulty/sticking valve in the pump assembly allows brake fluid to flow in a circle, from master-to inlet valve-back to master cylinder--instead of forcing it down to the caliper. When ABS is not engaging, it should flow from master-to inlet valve-blocked by outlet/dump valve-forced to caliper. Imagine a syringe with a hose on the end. if it only goes from point a to point b, there is always pressure. Add a tee to that hose on the syringe, allowing fluid to flow a litt;e through the tee and a little down the hose, dramatically reduces pressure, and thats the best i can explain it.
Hey man,on my car pedal get normal resistance when car offbut when i start car it hoes straight to the floor,no resistance at all,was it like that for your car? Ive got no abs light but diagnosis says brake module and ecu communication error,also tried yo activate abs pump with diagnostic tool,its a 2006 volvo v50 maybe its me but shouldnt abs pumps emit quit the sound when activated? Hear no sound,but diagnostic says nothing abouy faulty abs,just brake module doesnt communicate with ecu,thoughts?
How did you bleed it ??
Hello i had a sinking pedal.
I replaced the mastercylinder and the brake booster.
That fixed the sinking petal.
I drove the car (2007 ford edge)
For about a hour then the front brakes locked up i let it sit till it cooled down then it did it again. I'm thinking tis has went bad but what's weird is it was fine before the sinking petal not even 24hrs later it started locking up..
Also how hard is it to bleed this do i have to bleed it at the wheels or can i bench bleed it with a bleeder pump?.
It sounds like the brake booster pushrod length needed to be checked specially with an all new parts. Also, some misguided shops and Do it yourselves, sometimes adjust the rod behind the pedal which should never be touched for a low brake pedal. If someone messed with the brake rod, it also messes with the booster rod and throws every thing off. This causes the brake fluid to never fully release and becomes trapped after the master cylinder and returns to normal after a cooling off period.
i disconnected my abs i just dont trust it even with a new abs module
Right!
Abs another joke like tpms..just another added headache and expenses..not needed to operate a vehicle!! People just need to know how to drive.
Stupid response, I understand tpms but abs is more than braking, its stability also, that can control each wheel, ent see no car with 4 brake pedal to control each wheel individually
bro this did nothing to help.....how do you program one? whats the correct part number for vehicle. anywho just passing by
They are not programed. Who told you that???
Look up your part number. Its on there.
Thank you for your video, I fix my 2005 toyota highlander by following your instruction, I wasted money on master cylinder, but by replacing the ABS pump fixed it👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Did you have to bleed the abs module with a machine?
Did you have to program
my rv Ford f350 1997 has good brakes when motor off, but when I turn on motor I have no brakes can you help?
check the ABS PUMP.
Phillip beaupre, did you ever change out the abs pump? Did it fix it, I'm having sme problem on my 95 jamboree on e350 chassis , off they are nice and hard , soon as I turn the key it sinks to floor, I suspect the abs pump but can't seem to find a replacement, my model numbers show no results anywhere
Why didn't you just replace the pump module?
It had a good code.
The control module wasn't the problem, it was the modulator valve assembly that it controls which was bad.
torch n brake fluid kind of don't like each other
Just thought I'd let you know, those are "TUBING WRENCHES", not brake wrenches. If you go to and auto-parts store and ask for brake wrenches, they are going to show you the wrenches to remove the springs on shoes and the expander on a disc brake caliper. :-)
Flare wrench
Do you have to bleed system afterTHE R&R OF the ABS module
100benebob .....I never had to. The brakes pumped right up. I thought I would have to.
so no bleeding of this unit after putting on all the hoses.
just the wheels?
Yes
Mine just started but it only drops when you hit it hard as in panic stops.
Get a 3rd gen dakota 6speed and make some repair videos for me 😁😂☝️
now the fun part bleeding the system, thats a video by itself nice video
I have a robot for that
@@FixingWithPassion I saw someone on here using a scan tool
I have this problem on my 2003 f150
Let us know what fixes it!
Same issue with mine. Everyone is telling me its the ABS Module.
I almost went crying to my mom 😂😂😂
Mommmmaammmm!!
I cant go homecrying to my mom. Shes been dead for 15 years.
2 things.... how the heck do you change the wiring out because it's not an obvious thing... something can get broken?!!!?!!
2. why the heck didn't you show how to take it off WHILE IT WAS IN THE DANG CAR??? I have a mercury mountaineer and the setup is close to the car in the video, but I have no space to get bolt on the front end of the abs system, AND I ENDED UP BREAKING THE BOLT!!! I WOULD HAVE LIKED TO SEE IF THERE WAS ANOTHER WAY TO AROUND THAT, BUT NOW ITS TOO LATE!!!
da back on left left side
That’s it all that to take it off be for real and replace it then bleed that abs block cause there’s going to be hard to get air out unless you got a auto brake bleed scan tool your not going to bleed that abs block without one so good luck with all that your a not a teacher I would take advise from
Can I not just bypass this damn thing?
NO...Not really.
I can't just run the lines straight from the master cylinder?
Technically yes u can 😉 u need a abs delete block run the lines from master cylinder to block n from block to wheels. I did it.
Is not your job you kild youtoup
Get you flank drive wrenches
Got some now days!
Easy Cheap fix , I threaded both of those ports with a 1/4 20 tap and
then I cut a drill bit 1 inch long (1/4 inch drill bit) and put it in
the holes and then put a 1/4 20 bolt in the newly threaded hole and
tighten it snugly with thread lock on it. Pedal is firm and never fades
.
This sounds like a real good fix that will last . If you got
Time maybe you can communicate with me on the details more in depth I have two modules so I can preform both or if I mess up thanks again
@@anthonyedwards6077 All I did was find a tap and run it down in the hole about 2 1/2 inches , cleaning out the chips as I went, then measured with a smaller drill bit the rough depth to the bottom hole and subtracted 1 and a half inches and cut an old drill bit that amount and stuck it in the hole first so it would slide down into the hole then I put some thread lock on the bolt and screwed it in till it hit the drill bit. (not real tight , just till it stops) You could also use a longer bolt with a nut on it and use that to lock the bolt in place if you don't want to use thread lock. I just used 1/4 20 cause that is what I found first in my box , you could use 1/4 18 or what ever you have , some ports may be slightly smaller or slightly bigger , you could even use a metric tap once you find the size of the hole, then find a bolt and lock nut. I guess if you have a bottom tap long enough you could go all the way down with threads and just use a long enough bolt to hit bottom, maybe grind off 1/2 inch of the bolt threads to substitute as the drill bit spacer. Anymore questions , just ask.
usautoserviceinc the two ports are the two bottom ones with rubber caps on it ?
@@anthonyedwards6077 yes, I have seen some where the caps have been missing.
usautoserviceinc hey bro , my ports are 21/4 deep , is the objective to drill to the bottom of port or past the bottom ? And the drill bit spacer is this just because you did have a bolt long enough ? Or does there need to be a void of some short at bottom ?? Thanks again