Low Brake Pedal ? It's not air in the system...
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- I find binding caliper pins on my Toyota Sienna.
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#keepwrenching #wesselmotorworks #wrenchingwithkenny
#brakeadjustment #brakepads #brakecaliper
brake adjustment brake pads brake caliper brake pedal soft brake pedal low brake pads seized brake caliper seized
You've just cleared my 2 week headache and a ton of $$! I honestly can't thank you enough for this video. For me it was the slider pins and possibly a shim that had come loose. Thanks again!
You're just fantastic. I learn loads from you and you're so thorough. I have a slight blown head gasket on my hyundai i30 2010 and block test didn't show a leak but I still suspect it as white smoke but I didn't rev anx HOLD for a long time like you did at higher rpm. Will try
@paulmannering3831 how did the repair go? You good?
Brake cleaner & WD40 works good.
Very important detail most people never do .. always make sure caliper pins are cleaned and greased and move freely
Also exercise the brake piston. Use a big plyer (poly grip) and press it in a few times and pump it out with the pedal. Everything goes easier and easier each time doing it. Then the seal around the piston comes into action and returning the piston away from the pads, and the brakes release the moment you release the brake pedal. It is the magic seal that makes the brake hydraulic system work. Its amazing that noone is talking aboute that seal when working on brakes. Its not only a seal, it brings back the piston just enough to get ta full breake pad detach. Just be careful not to pump the piston all the way out, i have some worn out old pads to put in place, so the piston can travel all the way but not to far.
Exactly 🤙🤙🤙
thanks for this. I had to brake hard and after that my brake pedal felt wrong. I assumed a burst brake line but braking kept working and no fluid on the ground, reservoir was fine. I did do a brake job recently and reused a torn boot because I didn't have time to replace it when I noticed the tear and figured I'd do it later. I doubt a guide pin would have already seized, but I'll check this out. I was going to bleed my brakes but I don't know how air would have gotten in them. I've heard the fluid can boil during braking, since it absorbs moisture over time...
Thanks! Dident know i need to put that mutch lub inside the pinhole😊
Sometimes a chunk of rust will get stuck in the bleeder valve. 😊
True!
Thank you
good video
I’ve seen this problem many times, since I’m in the Rust Belt. What I like to do in this case is remove the caliper bracket and wire brush the pad contact points, then just a touch of brake grease on them along with cleaning and re-lubing the slides. Never had a comeback after that. Good video bro, great detail.
2weeks without driving and trying to find out the problem after bleeding the brakes 20times.... This video made my whole day. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Me too! Been riding a bike to work! 😂
I too
Also exercise the brake piston. Use a big plyer (poly grip) and press it in a few times and pump it out with the pedal. Everything goes easier and easier each time doing it. Then the seal around the piston comes into action and returning the piston away from the pads, and the brakes release the moment you release the brake pedal. It is the magic seal that makes the brake hydraulic system work. Its amazing that noone is talking aboute that seal when working on brakes. Its not only a seal, it brings back the piston just enough to get ta full breake pad detach. Just be careful not to pump the piston all the way out, i have some worn out old pads to put in place, so the piston can travel all the way but not to far.
Great video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks, I think thats whats wrong with my brakes, I need to rotate the tires and ill give the brakes the once over.
I have had a couple of vehicles in shop.that sucked air in on pedal release .got in through threads at a bleeder .
Had this exact issue on my truck for a while now. Watched the video and tore into it the next day and sure enough had one rear pin froze solid and an inner pad stuck on the other side. Solved my problem.
That's awesome!
Great video
I've been having brake issues with my car *spongey brakes* for months, watched tens of videos, untill I saw this video and the problem was solved! God bless you Mr. Kenny.
Glad it helped !! Thanks for watching !!
Didn't all them other videos you say you watched say the same thing as this video did to solve the problem?
@@wendyeesue youtube is full of tons of vids about a certain topic. I've watched alot, but this one was very "specific" about the issue that my car had.
Im currently having the same issue as in THIS VIDEO.. after watching a couple other videos too. Is their any place that checks brakes first for free then gives you the problem and cost after checking it? @@TheKhwailed
@@wendyeesue I'm sorry. I don't know about that. I'm a DIYer, and I just watch vids, and fix my car. Somtimes it costs me nothing!
Purchased a 99 Suburban a few months ago and from the receipts supplied by the previous owner the brakes had been maintained less than one year previously. But for some reason the car was pulling to the right when the brakes were applied. Upon further inspection I found that the slide pins had been installed without the rubber dust boots and whatever grease had been applied had combined with the brake dust to form a glue-like substance that had seized up the slide pins. I had to press the slide pins out with a C-clamp, clean the bores with a rotary brush, wire wheeled the pins and re-inserted them with silicone grease and new dust boots. Now the old car will stop on a dime and leave 8 cents change.
,q❤
good insight to uneven braking solution, one problem, packing the pin hole with grease will create uneven wear also as the grease keeps the pin from its full travel, a little dab will do ya
Great point!
Yes , too much grease may cause hydro locking..
Use alittle oil
Way too much grease. The slide pin won’t bottom out when it’s supposed to which will create uneven wear. I never put grease on the tip of the pin it will create the suction that’s happening in this video. A little goes a long way.
🤣🤣🤣
No and Yes… If new yes if old no. It not very tight fit the grease will Squeeze out. Would I put that much NO never.
I use a 410 shotgun tube brush for such moments.
My VW TDI Jetta wagon had a low pedal problem. It was a seized park brake cable that caused the problem. The adjusters were seized on the rear calipers because I never used the park brake. Once the caliper adjusters and park brake cable were repaired, the low pedal problem was gone.
I had the dreaded death wobble on the front end of my 1996 Cummins diesel pickup. On a smooth surface the truck performed normally but if it hit any sort of bump on the road, the front left tire would violently shake to the point that I thought the truck was going to fall apart. After years of trying to diagnose this problem, I discovered that the rear right park brake cable was seized. I replaced the cable and the death wobble was gone. I never in a million years would have believed that a seized park brake cable could cause the death wobble but it did.
This works only if you have brake drums
I do this every tire change winter and summer up north. I also remove the rust on the tabs/ears of the brake pads and lube them a little so they also slide nicely with guide pins lubed up too.
I also use silicone on the piston and clean it and press it in so I know they work as intended and are not stuck.
I also put some grease on the piston metal lip and on the claws/tooth on the outside caliper facing the pad.
Result so far over the years is completely even wear and a nice brake pedal, no squeaks, I also know how worn my pads are with 6 months roughly increments.
Thank you Kenny good advice as always
When you press in the piston also pump it out a few times. In out untill it wont travel any easyer. I can guarante that the first time you have to press harder on the pedal compared to have done it 6 times. It will make the piston travel easyer and the rubber seal on the piston will draw back the piston as soon as the pressure on the pedal is gone. That seal is more than a seal, thats what will pull the piston back in just enough to release the pads from the disc. A round O ring would seal the piston, but its shape would not draw back the piston.
The black grease is only for the back and ends of the pads . It will thicken up over time, and should not be used on slides. Only use a silicone based lube on the slides, such as Sil-Glyde.
Huh? You use them on the slide pins too, right? They are meant to be used for the slides.
@@aboveaero The synthetic black grease is supposed to thicken over time. It's made that way so it won't melt off the surfaces it's applied to. That is great for the metal parts of the pads, not for the slide pins. Silicone based grease (like Sil-Glide) won't thicken, making it great for slide pins.
Exactly
This might explain my sponges pedal, every so often my pedal starts to get sponges and if I press the pedal to the floor and release then my pedal becomes firm again and stays that way for a few weeks or so and becomes spongy again
"Only use a silicon based lube on the slides, such as Sil-Glyde." You mean silicone, not silicon. A silicone or polysiloxane is a polymer made up of siloxane They are typically colorless oils or rubber-like substances. Silicon (Si) is a light chemical element that combines with oxygen and other elements to form silicates. Silicon in the form of silicates constitutes more than 25% of the Earth's crust. Silica (SiO2) as quartz or quartzite is used to produce silicon ferroalloys and silicon metal.
Thank you for this video. I was about to bleed the brakes on my Astra and this makes far more sense as to what might be the issue. I'm not a mechanic so just being pointed in the right direction is a huge help for time and sanity!
I hope it helped !!
Mr. Kenny, now you really have me scratching my head. Ha! I've watched tons of videos prior to yours telling me it is the master brake cylinder. But I've never bled my brakes. Never opened lines on cylinder either. Right now, I pretty much have no brakes. Pedal going to the floor and pump it three times to get car to stop. Do you think it is the pins and not master brake cylinder? 2000 Camry. I may try the pins prior to doing anything else. @@WrenchingWithKenny
@@llroman7823hopefully you've found the problem and had it repaired. If the master cylinder reservoir has no fluid in it, the system has a leak and your pushing air. If the reservoir has fluid then the master cylinder is shot. Either way you've been driving a death trap.
I am 43 years in auto repair and I was always told never pack grease into the caliper holes, because it will hydraulic lock and never get any grease on end of caliper pin! I see this done all the time, where people cover the end of the caliper pin! Rainman Ray does it all the time. But his quality of work has dwindled since he is his own boss! Sorry had to throw that in there. Good videos. Glad you moved and are happy about it!
Yea, I thought you should never put grease at the end,, but only on the sides of the pins..
Uh-Oh....do U also open the bleeders when you compress the pistons???? Ray does not.....
@@wallace3953 no surprise! Lol
@@wallace3953 sounds like you know Ray well? Lol
Manufactures thought of that and machined a flat along the side of the pin to allow the release of pressure if ther is to much grease at the end of the pin
When the rubber hoses get old they expand under pressure , makes the brakes spongy, i changed them on my van and bingo .
I use Stainless Steel brake hoses - no expansion 👍🏻
Great info and video, I you saved me a lot of time. I would have dived into bleeding first, but the pads were worn uneven and they were stuck. Cleaned and lubed all is good. Thanks!
I am an old school Mechanic I just watched you Video I have very similar problem with my 2020 4 runner some times I step on the break and the pedal sinks lower, In my mind it remined me of a bad master I pump it a second time and its fine. only happens randomly. I can not seem to duplicate it. your video gave me some incite where to look Thanks you..
I hope the video helped. I have two Facebook pages. Wrenching with Kenny & Backyard Mechanics. Make sure you answer all the questions to join ByMs. If you get stuck on a project, you can get some advice there too. Thanks for watching!
A major mistake people do is put anti-sieze on them. You need to use caliper grease. I'm fortunate to live in the south so I only need to grease them when I swap the pads.
Your a god send, no mechanic can figure out this problem, replace master cylinder I've told. It's not. This is the problem.
Thanks.
You are welcome !!
@@WrenchingWithKennya very overlooked problem 🙏🙏🙏 THANK YOU - for bringing this to our attention!
Dow & corning make a special grease for slider pins, it’s for minimal movement applications like slider pins, when things don’t move much in normal use they seize up & normal grease drys out & is like glue.
On older vehicles that only have drum brakes, having to pump the brakes means the master cylinder seals are worn and fluid is bypassing the seals. So in order to get enough volume to the brake cylinders you have to pump the brakes. I remember as a child our 1937 Chevy had that problem. Lefty
Great Kenny !
I now know how to fix my problem !
Trinidad & Tobago.
West Indies.
thanks, I know now what is wrong with my mercury grand marquis. I knew the dealer was full of it. more work to do.
Man, just reminded me with my 1st car back in the day, I have replaced everything master cylinder,,, etc... never works, until 17 yes old meckanic I can fixed in the spot for 50 bucks, go ahead' the only thing he has to do is to free the break pins. And there you go...... do it 1st thing before wasting your money.
Great video! You've demystified one of the thousands of automotive discombobulators out there.
Brake fluid will naturally absorb moisture into it,water will act as a hydraulic but will boil a lot faster.
Toyota's and Mazdas, even when right, have soft brakes; Honda's have tight brakes=good😁
Ed c
When caliper sliders are seized the symptoms are usually vibration. That's because only one side of the rotor is getting pressure. I don't think the pedal softness is caused by that.
I live in the rust belt and don't even bother trying to clean up caliper slide pins anymore. I just take a small round brush out of the engine cleaning set from Harbor Freight, cut the end off of the handle, chuck it in a drill and run it in and out of the bracket for a few minutes. Then, I flood the hole with brake cleaner and blow it out with compressed air. The slide pins are cheap enough at the chain parts stores that I just replace them. After that's done, EVERYTHING gets a good helping of the purple Permatex lube.
Now, if I could just get my brother to reimburse me just for the parts for the front brake job on his Toyota! That poor car needed EVERYTHING from the rotors out including both calipers! Those pins were so frozen that I had to buy reman calipers WITH brackets. Even my oxy/acetylene torch didn't help!
yes they can get stuck, be careful heating them, I had a bracket clamped in my vice and was heating the bracket, it came out AND PUT A HOLE IN THE WALL!!!, never stand in front of them, I also like the Permatex purple ceramic lube, it stays soft even if the driver drives like a nascar racer
This can also happen if the linings are loose on the shoes of drum brakes.....even if it's just the rears.....Some are rivetted on and some are 'bonded' , which can loosen if contaminated by brake fluid from a leaking cylinder (over time).....All it takes is one, and the pedal will require two pumps to take up the slack between the lining and the shoe......John (west coast,Can.)
Thank you. My pedal getting soft, but observed no leaks. Just about to replace master cylinder ... for nothing.
If you have old fluid, the boiling point goes down. Boiling the fluid most definitely puts gas in the line. So it is possible that a never opened line, driven the same as always all of a sudden has air in the line. That's what happened to me. Those exposed Toyota pins on Tacomas, we replace every spring. Every spring. I have a truck that drove for 13 days in New England, and Florida dealership refused to service it for warranty
I always use my Mother In-Law small tooth brush to pack that grease into the screw hole tight, it does a good job.
😂 keep wrenching 🔧
You know what I like about you Buddy? You my friend, are not afraid to get your hands dirty. I see so many Pretty Boy Mechanic Apprentices on RUclips head for the throw away latex gloves before they go a wrenchin' and put them on, as if they were gonna catch some kinda of disease from what they are working on. I just grin and bear it. I never wore those things, I can only imagine they would be more of a hindrance than a help. I used to just keep a container of Go-Jo and a toothbrush for the nails handy and that was it. Anyway, a big Thanks for all the fine Videos you've been putting out for us to watch. They are very helpful, and a big thumbs up to you!
their wives don't want grease all over the house.
God gives us Gifts 🙏🙏🙏
tip for dys people make sure silicone grease dosent get on tip end of slider pin .it wont compress properly or not at all .sorry kenny .you did everything perfect but the jamming the grease in with the screw driver can cause problems later on .im sorry but needed to say something .
You are 100% correct. But I should have explained better . Yes ,the grease won't compress, but the ends of these pins were not round to fit in a round hole. The pins were more of a "D" shape to allow any trapped grease to be pressed up the side of the pin. I should have been more clear on the explanation. I really do appreciate that you were following along with the video and noticed that. I often do the same when I'm editing together the videos. I pick up on things I should have explained or said differently but never did. I'm still learning!!
Thank you for picking that up and messaging me !!
I appreciate you !!
@@WrenchingWithKenny thankyou i just didnt want you feel i was bashing .as you know people watch the videos to learn .oh well maybe someone watching has round ends .lol good job !
I’m going to check this theory on my 4runner. Same exact symptom. A quick pump and it’s firm but mid drive it’s about half the pedal stroke that it finally engages brakes. Front pads were replaced just before I bought the truck (used) and I figured maybe it had air in the line so I bled them. And they were fine. Also my reservoir was way over full. Hope this works
Let me know if this helps. Thanks for watching & commenting 🔧
I use red rubber grease on the sliders
I have had 3 Toyota Camrys, and they all had a low pedal. It goes down further than I would like before the brake catches. I checked the brakes on all three, and even replaced and bled brakes on one. Same thing. My old '95 Safari brake pedal hits as soon as I put my foot on it.
Last resort for low or spong pedal on old cars.the flex line from the caliper to the hard line Will collapse. Brake won't work pedal still sponge
@@Graham-y2fI use Stainless Steel brake lines - doesn’t expand !!!!!
@@jimmysapien9961Where do you buy your stainless steel brake lines?
Get bore brushes for cleaning firearms, their made of brass with brake clean you can scrub those bracket holes out good. As others said you can also take a drill bit if you have a good set of drill bits with odd sizes you can save a bracket just don’t overbore the hole. Last don’t overfill the hole with lube you can hydraulic the pin, work that pin in/out till it moves freely purging any air trapped in there. Put a good layer of brake lube on the inside of those boots to help seal them from water infiltration. Very good video help explains how a caliber moves not many people get that.
I had a similar bad pedal feel. It went away after I changed a bad wheel bearings in the front. I guess the hub was able to wobble when you applied the brake.
Rav4s are known for low brake pedals, especially and mysteriously after pad replacement...for no apparent reason. There are guys on the Toyota forum pulling their hair out for this suddenly appearing low pedal, which is then about halfway to the floor than before the repair. I'm going to check all these caliper pins on my Rav, otherwise I'm going to have to replace all brake hardware including rotors.
Great vid, btw.
Excellent presentation, good explanation, good lighting, and good attitude ! I hit subscribe ... one of those obscure details in making sure all components are free and doing their job. I noticed the same soft brake pedal that just started to manifest, I looked all around, no apparent leaks, brake pad material ok, just a bit uncertain what to do, buy new calipers ? .. no first thing now check the the caliper brace. Mahalo nut loa !
Check the caliper bracket pins to see if any of them are seized up. Thanks for your sub & watching the channel. Keep wrenching
I lube the pins, more to the front of the pins and it spreads out the grease when I push it into the caliper. I never put lube in the hole per se, if just cakes up and make them hard to slide. Too much lube is one of the reasons for a stuck caliper pin. And the type of lube is important, also.
Enjoyed the video.
You can get air in your lines without a leak. If your brake caliper gets to hot from a bad bearing or continuous hard braking it can cause the brake fluid to steam or boil which in turn puts air in the line.
Yep 👍
Moisture not air brake fluid loves Moisture
Just did your suggestion yesterday on my 86 Mazda, clean and fresh grease caliper mount bushings. Caliper must be free floating for normal pad to disc clearance under light braking. Definitely improved brake feel. Thanks again pal!
Excellent video. Have a 96 Chevy Express van thats alway had spongy brakes even after many bleedings. If this turns out to be the reason i owe you one!
Awesome
good video!!, seems like those slider pins get tight about every 2 years, and if you get a customer that drives ( or brakes) hard you need to use the newer ceramic high temp lube, the regular stuff will harden if the driver is driving like a nascar racer, also wanted to mention that calipers can let air in, it is rare in newer cars but anyone that owned a 1970s corvette knows what I mean, I did have a Chrysler 200 in my shop that had a spongy pedal, you could just open the bleeders for a minute and have a solid pedal, I noticed I only got air from one wheel, a new caliper fixed that one
I've experienced that before. It is rare, but I know what you're talking about. Thanks for your comment & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
You don't put grease in there like that, especially on the end of pin and back of hole it will create a vacuum and stick, probably what happened to him in the first place, they will seaz up again
Your video has been a lot of help, thank you. My car is having the same issue it sounds like to where the pedal goes to the floor almost on first press then stuff like it should be on the second press. It's a relief to know that this may be the resolution. A mechanic diagnosed it as being the booster without touching anything. Doesn't sound like a booster issue according to my research.
Thanks again!
Awesome diagnosis 👊💥😁
Makes a lot of sense...
Thank you..
Heyyyyyy could this also cause the brakes to stick??? Csuse I have the same problem with the brake pedal but when I'm at a intersection sometimes my brakes are still applied upon acceleration and to get it to stop I have to push the brake pedal again and I'm able to drive
It is possible. Let me know if this fixing you issue. Keep wrenching! Kenny
Thank you for comfirming my findings I have a new Ford that had this pedel problem, plus the sticky caliber. The local Ford dealership wanted to rebuild the transmission (15,000 miles) telling me it was in reverse and forward at the same time. We don't go there anymore. The caliper pins were all dry as a bone, I removing the pins, doing what you've demonstrated and greasing fix the problem.
Good place to start diagnose the problem start with the simple stuff
I had a Camaro do the same thing . Both rear calipers on my car. Replaced calipers fixed it😊. Good video
Good stuff...as he mentioned a prime warning is rust on the outside of the disc.That means stuck pins.I have seen lots of guys buy new calipers when in fact it just had stuck pins.Stupid mistake.
Great vid. Just did my front brakes. One of the slide pins needed a boat load of motivation to free up. But we got er' done. New sub here.
Just today, I found BOTH of the inside pads on my wife's outback worn out with the outside pads barely worn. The hidden side of both front disks was badly scored. I had followed bad advice to use anti-seize on the sliding guide pins. It caused the black rubber inserts on the guide pins to swell enough to lock them. I feared that I would have to replace the sliding caliper brackets but eventually found a puller to remove the pins. After new disks, pads, pins, and rubber seals, I will only use silicone grease.
yes silicone grease or "silicone paste" only
Great tip! I cant seem to bleed my brakes! Going to grease up the caliper bolts! Wish me luck 😜🤞🏼
@Rudenuttes you've got this. Keep wrenching 🔧
Don't put too much Sil-glyde inside the guide pin holes or you'll have problems getting the guide pin to go all the way in. It doesn't take much. Instead of applying it to the hole, brush it onto the guide pin.
That's what I have heard before, too much grease is almost as bad as no grease...
I've been doing this for every brake for yrs. To me it was common sense if you understand how Caliper slides and pins work. Also if the boots are worn, stretched, turn, etc replace it
Exactly
Shady! That piston should slide smoothly . You risk damaging the inside surface with a "screwdriver".
That’s not a piston that’s not the cylinder wall that is just a slide pin and scratching the surfaces with a screwdriver is not going to hurt it. I wouldn’t use a screwdriver I would use for a clean get me a wire brush from my gun cleaning kit and going there on a drill, or they have wire brush kits that it was actually for servicing brakes if you don’t want to buy the correct one the schedule wire brush and clean it out by han he’s isl inside the caliper where the piston goes
One guy on you tube says don't put grease on the top of the pin. He says the grease does not compress and the pin will not go all the way in.
Be careful using the wire wheel on gold colored guide pins. That's cadmium plating applied to resist corrosion and removing it will accelerate future corrosion buildup.
Thank you for that information
I just noticed your post after making my own about the wire wheel thing-y.
Exactly my problem. Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
A big help! Will be nice, to be able to fix it myself instead of waiting for a shop to have an opening, and forking out $$.
Keep me posted !! I love to hear how things work out !!
@@WrenchingWithKenny The pedal is not airy when the vehicle is at rest but super spongy when it's running. Despite sinking almost all the way down, it actually works super well and the grip sets in just right in the middle. It seems to me that this does not match with the description of this video. I wonder if it is the master cylinder issue, or something else, but what can that be?
You are my hero. Just did my brakes and have an intermittent spongy pedal. Its and old car and I didn't clean the pins. Back to the garage.
Great video! Thanks Kenny.
Thanks for watching! Keep wrenching 🔧
Please wear gloves, all them chemicals will cause some type of cancer. skin cancer, etc.we need people like you..
In the Midwest, they'll be rusted so bad, I'll have to torch them to get that slide out. Usually the rotor will be hotter too. spongy and maybe a slap back sound, if you slide your foot off while pressing.
THANK YOU for making and sharing this video. I have exactly the same symptoms in my Mazda MPV for a long time. This is the kind of problem most mechanics will not make efforts to find out it’s underlying cause. I look forward to having mine fixed ASAP
Happy Father's Day Kenny!
Hope you had a great one as well !!
They sell wire brushes that you can put on the end of a drill at Harbor Freight. I think it's called an engine cleaning kit or something. They work great for cleaning things such as the brake caliper bracket slides.
I just did the exact thing...the little brushes are loaded into a power drill. I shoot the caliper slides with brake clean and hit the area with the drill brushes....super clean
Called 20pc engine brush kit $19.99
I didn't know they existed. I ended up using an old barrel brush from a firearms cleaning kit.
my issue (including cars I've never worked on) the brakes work fine to stop the vehicle, but once stopped (or if in park) the pedal will go right to the floor. It's such a weird and frustrating problem. I've bled them so many times the fluid is crystal clear. I've greased the pins and none seem stuck.
Exact same problem I had been chasing on my 1996 Saturn Wagon a few years ago and finally stumbled upon the root cause of the issue. Nowhere could I find info about seized up guide pins causing a soft brake situation so it’s nice to see you published a video that discusses this issue.
Thanks for the video. I'm dealing with a Subaru with soft brakes that's never had the system opened. I'll give this a shot.
There are 2 types of brake grease , one for metal to rubber and the other is for metal to metal. If you put wrong type of lube to the caliper pin then it might damage the rubber boot and gum up the pin. On the other hand if you put low temperature tolerant on metal to metal part then it might cause fire. Most of silicon based lube operating temperature can be up to around 575F. Synthetic lube can be up to 3000F. Between shim and back of brake need grease to reduce noise. I use rubber friendly silicon based grease to lube caliper pin and synthetic grease to lube metal to metal part.
There’s yellow gel like substance and black grease, you’re saying the black grease is for the slide pins only?
Someone's been "flat rating" your brake jobs. Very common issue with these Girling style calipers, which is why I always clean & re-lube those "pins" with copper paste every time I do brake pads. I also recommend replacing the much forgotten brake fluid every two years regardless of mileage.
I also recommend changing the beake fluid out . It's amazing how many people don't think it's necessary. But being hydroscopic , it does break down over time .
Thanks for watching !!
@@WrenchingWithKenny.....That's hygroscopic with a "g" and it's designed to be such. Otherwise moisture would stay in droplet form instead of being absorbed molecularly by the fluid. Another common mistake is retracting the pistons without opening the bleeder; this can be especially detrimental to a system with ABS; not an inexpensive oversight. And it's an easy way to get rid of the worst of the contaminated fluid.
@bhaggen you are 100% correct , including my spelling error lol 😆
@@WrenchingWithKenny.....Your spelling was fine, but hydroscopic refers to a hydroscope, which is an instrument used underwater.
I had soft brakes on my 2006 Murano. Found out I had 4 x 100% seized rear brake caliper pins, had to use a blow torch to move them. Replaced them all, greased...fixed the problem
Good job !! Thats awesome !!
@@WrenchingWithKenny your video is the best out there
I use a properly sized drill bit. By hand to clean bore out. Brake clean also of course.
Here is a tip for you. Ethanol works as good as brake cleaner. Maybe no big deal for you but if you get a woman in the shop you wouldn't want her to breath brake cleaner fumes. Belle chemical sells it cheap.
Experiencing this problem on our 2017 Tacoma. It seemed to come on gradually and is still annoying the heck out of us.
It's one of the most common issues that effects the brake pedal
Hi Kenny, would this situation cause the brake light to come on? I have bled the brakes twice & have issue you described.
Yes, but it should not fill all the way down that chambers with grease it will make the pins to pull back due to grease, grease should just be brush a round the pins and not all the way down at the tip end of the pins.
Thank you so much, I thought it was air in the line
The worst brake pedal I felt on a 'yota was an older Toyota Tundra with drum brakes in the back. The brake pedal was to the floor and it was hardly braking. Turned out to be the parking brake cable was way out of adjustment and so were the brake shoes in back. Add a brake fluid flush and a front brake job and it actually stopped way better.
I chased it for a week on an Audi. GREAT VIDEO. One of the BEST on DYI
I've got an Explorer Sport Trac I just bought and the one issue I've noticed is soft brakes and a low pedal. I just noticed today that even after driving about 50 miles that the outer disc, that you can feel with the wheels still on the car, are kind of rough and rusty. I'm pretty sure the pins are seized up.
i notice cars with bad bearings that drove to long cause this issue
Absolutely!
Your brake need to be adjusted
Best thing I got for my shop for stuff like that was a cheap gun cleaning set 20ga wire brush fits great and cleans it really good just something to think about if you already have one
I used to have a kit also . When I moved from NY to NC , it got misplaced somewhere.. Thanks for watching !!