Here's one for ya, I worked 15 years in auto parts sales.. 10 of which as an ASE Certified parts pro and no one ever told me that a bubble flare can only be used once! I have a leak on the ABS unit on my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it can not be fixed by tightening the line screw. As a matter of fact, when I tried just that it made the leak much worse and now I have to splice the line at the ABS unit then bleed it out.
Very interesting thanks for sharing… I never noticed that but I suppose that makes a lot of sense. It doesn’t hurt to try out I guess but worth pinning this comment.
I've spent 3 months and hundreds of dollar trying to figure out why I had no brakes. As soon as you said you pulled the ABS fuse. I pulled it and drove my truck without issue for the first time and many hours of labor you were the solution. Thank you so much and I hope you continue to inspire people to do jobs on their own.
Thanks a million. I never noticed this but couldn't figure out why my brakes were spongy after replacing the front calipers and bleeding all four wheels multiple times. After watching this, I realized I installed them on the wrong side.
Sir, If I was next to you right now I would give you the biggest hug you have ever had. Many people have tried to fix my 2005 silverado 1500 with no luck. Issue with the pedal going to the floor when running. Although not to the floor when off, still not normal. I watched your video, and sure enough, there was the answer. All the years doing brakes, My son and I somehow put the calipers on the wrong side and the bleeder is in fact, on the bottom. All I can say is I LOVE YOU!!!!!! Crossing fingers that does the trick. Thank you and yes I subscribed!
@@sharpcarco I wanted to add that the bracket appears to be a left right issue as well. Has a nub on the bottom, so I had to swap that over too. Thanks Again Pal!
@@dude4548 It sure was. Because I took the brakes apart months in advance, (because we installed upper and lower ball joints), Neither one of us noticed we put the brake caliper upside down, and just like clay said, the air was getting trapped.
Great video. I’m having the peddle go all the way to the floor with vehicle the vehicle running. Just had the rear drums& solenoids replaced about 6 months ago. Just stated taking place the last 2 months. I’m going to replace the check valve & hydraulic hoses 1st. No leaks that I can find so far, no loss of fluid. Sometimes the peddle is okay, other times I have to pump 2-3-4x and then I get peddle and other times I’m not certain if I’m going to stop, but this is usually coming off the highway. Cold or warm weather doesn’t matter. Thank you Sir! New subscriber.
HUGE HELP thank you for this video. My 1998 Toyota rav4 was having issues with spongy brakes. Especially when SLOWLY pressing on the brake pedal it would reach the floor pretty consistently. I started by flushing the entire system from the 24 year old brake fluid. when that didn't completely fix my issue I took the brake drum off and made sure everything was clean and looked connected properly. funny enough I didn't realize they auto adjust when depressing the brake pedal and did this while the drum was off. Causing the rear brakes to get set to the max position, eventually leaking from the master cylinders in the drums and leaking out fluid. After learning that, I spun the star WAY further back than necessary causing my car to have basically no rear braking. After watching your video and a few others I got those adjusted and the brakes are much much better in the rar. Still having issues with the pedal reaching the floor and after some suggestions online and your video I'm pretty confident the master cylinder is leaking internally. Picked up a brand new one and I'm gonna throw it on tomorrow. Thanks again! Going to watch one of your playlists tonight ;)
Amazing & very informative video thanks so much. I think im having trouble with my brake booster after watching this. Makes a super loud hissing noise when i press the brake, goes all the way to the ground, the noise stopa, takes super long for the truck to stop. Truck is running extremely rich & has no power.
One of the first people who’s ever said this that I actually believe that it’s probably a good possibility that your brake booster is bad. You can unplug your brake booster vacuum tube block that vacuum tube off and if your truck starts running better, you will know for sure.
Well, very very happy to have you, I’ll try not to be wrong in videos, but sometimes I actually do it on purpose. Like I’ll take off the battery cables the wrong way on purpose because I don’t really think it matters all that much but there are a lot of Internet armchair mechanics that will comment. I also drop calipers. With the brake line attached so people will say things because comments push the algorithm. I don’t do stuff like I did in this video on a lot of videos. I just figured most the time break videos. Tell you the same generic stuff. I know mine doesn’t go through all of the steps that I could think of at the time. I get a lot of complaints about this video . But the people who actually sit and watch it realize that there wasn’t much that I did not cover. It’s just boring, sometimes making videos about the same subject that other people have covered I’d prefer to have a follower than a subscriber. So welcome and I’m very very happy to have you.
My original master cylinder was working perfectly fine but the fluid was very dark even after the brake flush. I noticed my rear wheel cylinder was leaking so i wanted to baby my truck and install a brand new ACDelco master cylinder and new wheel cylinders. Oh boy I had a horrible time bleeding the rear drum brakes. Brake pedal was going all the way to the floor. I searched RUclips videos to help me with my issue. So it seemed like ABS control module might have air. So i kept and kept bleeding it without luck. I went to my junk yard location to find a used ABS module. I spent almost half a day looking for one until i found one. Went home tried on and same results. I also purchased another proportioning valve because it might be the problem. Installed and same results. My brake light was on, and almost no pressure to the rear lines. So I came across to a video explaining how to rest the proportioning valve to keep it open so fluid could travel to the rear line and same results. I bought a lot of bottles of brake fluid I spent about 70 dollars on fluid. I could recycle it and reuse it but it was turning dark and green so i didn't want to reuse it. So there were another videos that explained about some wheel cylinders could be bad and have defective seals and it could suction air back to the system. So I purchased another set of wheel cylinders installed them and same results. I was loosing my brain cells. I purchased a 80 dollars brake bleeder and didn't help at all. Same problem pedal all the way to the floor. I gave up and i took it to Firestone to the pros, so they can diagnose the main problem and the truck was there all day and they didn't find the issue. I was told it was because i removed the ABS MODULE and computer. That i needed a new ABS computer and a rebuild the ABS module otherwise i would keep have this issue. They quoted me a leg and arms so no way i could afford it. It was like buying the truck again. I went home all sad and disappointed. They didn't even bother to check the master cylinder because it was brand new and original supposedly. I knew my old was working so I was like you know what ima install it back but honestly i didn't want to because it was old and looked beaten by the years. At this point I didn't care. So I removed the master cylinder and BOOMS!!! My pressure was there instantly!! My pedal was firm and hard. No more brake light on!! After a week of pure stress, finally, i could breathe. This part gave me a headache I don't wish this to anybody. I hope you never get to go through this.
This covers really well a lot of the issues I have worked through over the last 3 months regarding my brakes. basically im at the Master cylinder due to possible having ruined it when bleeding out air from it, which can be done without removing it.. the air i put there due to having drained the brake fluid when removing my broken calipers.. where the vents were shut. but this gives a really good picture how brakes possibly don't work Gonna go replace my master though.. since that is most likely why my brake pedal is slightly spongy. thanks for this vid. and then!!
Subscribed. Period. Fantastic and No one have this info.. If brake line, brake pad, no leaks on brake caliper, cylinder etc, can i assume my master cylinder is leaking internally, and after changing master cylinder, can i condemn ABS. seemms like testing master cylinder is not practically possible except ruling all others out. can i check ABS by unplugging the fuse? again for spongy
i couldn't watch the whole thing because i got so annoyed with the editing with the movie clip, great content but for future videos i highly recommend to keep it away from unnecessary editing ... wishing all the best regardles.
@@seizera7586you want DADa to heat up a bottle of warm milk for the wittle baby. Don't worry your civic hatchback w the fart can probably won't brake due to your bad driving
How would you remove the break booster if you needed to on a Pontiac/Equinox since it’s so difficult to access ? What would you remove to be able to get a booster out and back in?
You really don’t have to do anything but remove the master similar Nuts Then you go from the inside and you remove four nuts, holding on the brake booster with the linkage connected to the brake pedal, and you can gently push the master cylinder out of the way as long as you do not have to bend the brake lines to move it out of your way far enough
Oh boy. I have been wanting to get rid of my ABS. I have to watch your next video. So a fuse pulled out fixed this pedal to the floor? Still there would have had to have been air in the ABS? I mean the fluid was going somewhere right?
Actually there wasn’t any air in the system I know it doesn’t make a lot of sense it honestly doesn’t make sense to me either. I 100% agree with you but I actually did a video after this one replacing the ABS module on this vehicle without bleeding any of the brake system and now the ABS works just fine. I don’t necessarily think that it was air I think it was the valve chamber that does have air inside it causing the pedal to go to the floor because that valve was not functioning properly. It’s necessary for the ABS system to have a pocket of air inside it so it can pulsate the brake system. Welcome to the channel James very good, greatly appreciate it
I replaced a rear passenger caliper and realised they gave me a driver side one after installing it and when i tried to bleed it cause some oil leaked, only a bit of oil came out with some bubble and then stopped flowing and the master cylinder was topped off. After all that i tested it and my break pedal felt sligtly softer and was making that whoosh sound when i pressed on the breaks, you covered thats caused by a faulty brake booster but should that be replaced or is it something you can live with ?
I’ve replaced MC, booster, brake pads, calipers, rotors, drums, drum brakes (kit), shoes, bled, no air, clean fluid, no leaks… E brake works fine. Drum brake could use a little more adjusting… Pulled one ABS fuse. Light came on but didn’t help with soft pedal (until I feel brakes 75% depression). There is a second ABS fuse for rear wheels and cruise control. I haven’t tried that, yet. Tomorrow. Perhaps a new control module if no change with brake drum adjustment and removal of back ABS fuse. I still have the rubber brake lines. Maybe I’ll swap those out for steel braided, too. 2000 Subaru Forester, 2.5 L, L Series, MT5. 117k miles. Given to me by a client 4 years ago if I could do the work on it. Head gasket leak; not bad. Not overheating, no oil in coolant/vise versa. I only drive it a few month out of the year. I have 4 other vehicles also between my daughter and I that I keep running. Thank you for your informative video. My daughter would get a kick out of the humor… and theeeennn! 😂
Ok so after u pull the abs fuse if it works well.....what about the fuse ...dont you need the fuse in.does it affect the vehicle with no abs fuse.is there a fix for the fuse being in .
So how did you fix the issue, replace the fuse? We have the same problems, no visible leaks, replaced brake pads, one caliper, master cylinder, purged ABS pump, bled the brakes plenty times. Thinking is that the ABS is faulty, however no warning light has ever come on for the brakes.
@@karinhoehler7937 when I removed the fuse, and I no longer had ABS actuation at every stop that told me that the ABS controller was bad then in another video, I showed people how to remove the ABS controller without having to bleed the brakes that’s under my Chevy and it’s titled Chevy Equinox ABS control replacement
Master cylinder can be bad without leaking.. it can fail internally and never leak, just look at the fluid in the reservoir, if it’s black you have a bad Master cylinder… thanks for the video
I know I freaking responded to this message. Stupid RUclips that was hilarious but I think he’s better than me to be honest with you. He just doesn’t make videos like I make any more.
Part of me wants to rewatch this video because of the movie scenes even more than trying to learn all the brake possibilities better lol (if that makes sense). You inspired me to watch that movie a month or two ago and I didn’t know what I was missing.
Yeah, I wish the guy that made that movie wouldn’t have stole all of my money from my video because I used his screen cuts… Some people don’t like the way I do things some people do I know that I’m OK what I do but it gets boring just telling people information so I try to make it a little bit fun even though most people are irritated when they’re watching these videos and they just want to know what is wrong with their car … well it’s intentionally called the Clay way on purpose 🤯😂😂😂 because it’s not everybody else’s way, but welcome to the Channell Wyatt greatly appreciate you. Hope you figured out your ride. Thank you for not getting to irritated with me.
@@sharpcarco It’s a pleasure! It stinks when that happens but at least RUclips didn’t discipline you by taking money from other videos, kind of like how TikTok will just ban your whole account if you do things they don’t like. I stripped my power steering box trying to replace the line but weeks later, I’m feeling inspired to pick up the wrenches again (although in reality it’s sockets and ratchet bc I don’t use wrenches 99% of the time). I think a $85 steering box on my 98 XJ is a lot cheaper than giving into the temptation to scrap the vehicle I’ve spent closer to $2K on. The last thing I was doing on it was related to the brakes but I can’t road test it or do anything at all until I swallow my irrational pride and replace the box. I love how my inspiration works, I only wanna work on it at night time when it’s dark (and now cold) and I can’t see anything. It’s that Romeo and Juliet concept.
Have a 91 camaro with a rear disc conversion. Now the brakes are spongy and the rear brakes squeel at low speeds. New master cylinder, new proportional valve stiffer spring. Any ideas?
Hey Matthew check out the calipers themselves make sure they’re not installed on the wrong sides the bleeder screws should be at the top of the calipers they will fit on either side.
I got a gen 3 (2010) CRV last year. Just got a new master cylinder in and pedal is still soft and sponges just not nearly as bad as it used too. Brakes are responsive and work, just a spongey pedal. Do you notice these cars having soft brakes normally?
I do see that quite a bit. Without being the one to work on them I can’t really tell you what the solutions are but if you go through and check the things that I talk about in this video, they’re going to be as good as they possibly can be
I did the same thing i have replaced everything you have mentioned except for the master cylinder.Im on disability and so is my son and I don't have the money to take it to the shop I have a 2004 Dakota 2 wd 3.7 it's sat there for at least 5 months and I have replaced everything and bled the brakes is there a test for the abs module
Great video! Literate production and a complete guide for dummies as well as for pros! Fantastic reminder and thanks! I hope i fix my issue after implementing your tips 🔥🫶🏻🌹
Right now I’m actually working on how to fix it fix it like fix the old control unit because that was the problem I had another video where I show you how to change that thing. But I literally just got done with a Saturn that had the same exact problem. So I’m going to disassemble the old control unit because apparently something must be burning up inside it. I should’ve probably done this year’s ago
I'm going to go home and try this today pull out the ABS fuse I've changed my master cylinder already and bled the air out and still soon as the car starts the pedal hits the floor no pressure in there
I'm having a issue I can't figure out. My check brake system light comes on after driving about 10 minutes. Nothing seems out of the ordinary when braking. When I turn the truck off then back on, the light is gone until I start driving again. What could it be? Fluid is full. No leaks. Brakes normally
OK, so if we think about it It doesn’t happen till after you’re driving it for a while so it’s a signal that the ECM is getting after it’s been moving so that eliminates a lot of things so that tells us it’s more than likely a wheel speed sensor, and if you hook up the scanner to it and watch the live data from all wheels that will show you which wheel is turning slower or faster than it’s supposed to be Do you have different size tires on your vehicle? That would be one you can personally eliminate without any kind of technology If you don’t have ability to scanner a will figure that out pretty quick I hope that’s helpful for you
@sharpcarco I don't currently have a scanner to check. But wouldn't the abs light come on as well? It's just the brake check light coming on. Tires are bigger but nothing crazy. My understanding is the only thing that can set that light off is the brake fluid sensor, the parking brake switch, a bad master cylinder, and a faulty instrument cluster. I also had my anti theft light come on at the same time today and both went out then 10 mins later the brake check light came on again. It also just hit me that there is an aftermarket electron brake control mounted under the steering wheel. It cuts off when the check brake system light comes on. Could that have something to do with it?
Hey i have brake issue with my accord since 2 years now i have done all the possible things but still not fixed i have changes master cylinder, abs modulator, checked calipers no leakage, changes pads as well
Dude, you just commented back a day or two ago on a comment about how I think I know something(brakes) and I end up having a problem I can't figure out. I ran into this video today. I just bleed the master cylinder and thought I'd got my problem fixed until I hit the road. I'm still stuck. Her car, the pedal is soft the first push, if you let up and hit it again, it has great pedal. Does this everytime we use the brake, first pump is soft and goes several inches, let up and hit again and plenty of pedal. I'll double check the slid pins next. it has disk brakes all the way around, but drum parking brake. I don't think that's hooked to the hydrolic system.
@@robbyddurham1624 sorry Robbie I never seen this. I would’ve told you that you have a leak somewhere. It is possible possible to have a leak without actually having fluid come out. Believe it or not it could be a simple as a loose bleeder screw.
@@sharpcarco The problem was the rubber bushing on the slide pin. The front bushings were built in and also kept grease in and dirt out, I had to replace the whole bushing. It was about an inch long. The bushings are supposed to keep the brakes from rattling or something.
My 1998 dodge B1500 Van has had a low brake pedal since I got it 5 months ago. It does not sink all the way to the floor, nor does it continue to sink, it just goes about 75% to the floor. The brakes do not engage until that point. The brake fluid was old and I had a seized front caliper so I flushed the brake lines with new fluid until they all ran clear, then I installed the calipers and bled the system. Master cylinder is right at full mark, no system leaks. The pedal does not pump up when I push it down it just goes back to the same low position. Van stops just fine but I hate the pedal is so low. No dash indicator lights for abs or brakes are lit and no trouble codes in the OBD II system. I do not suspect the master cylinder but I suppose it still could be. This van was parked for a long time and I suspect possibly the rear drum brakes are out of adjustment and the adjusters are probably not working right as you suggested. (Thank you) Today, I just replaced the 2 rear wheel bearings and seals (Had a bad bearing) and changed differential gear oil. The drums came off easily so I suspect there might be too much clearance as usually the shoes are so close to the drums they make taking them off difficult in my experience. Tomorrow, I will try backing up a few times and braking to see if it changes anything. I will adjust manually if needed. If no change then next will be the fuses for the abs to test. Thanks again for this very comprehensive video Sir. Lots of great information very well explained.
Well thanks brother I greatly greatly appreciate you taking the time to write that message when I was reading it I was thinking exactly the same thing you’re saying it’s got to be drum brakes in the rear and they have to be out of adjustment. Generally that back up procedure will not work unless the brake shoe is contacting the inside of the drum at some point, so that’s why we hit the brakes hard while we’re backing up. As far as the video goes sometimes they don’t turn out that well lol but I do like the information in this one even though I was being a little bit silly I’m certain you’re on the right path and I’m certain that you’re going to figure that out that’s gonna make all the difference in the world Welcome to the channel. I’m so happy to have folks like you here. They will take the time to say nice things very very much appreciated.
@@sharpcarco Thank you for replying. I did 3 pretty hard reverse braking stops from about 15 mph in my van this morning and guess what? That pedal is now at the very top of it's travel and I only need to move it like 1/8" before braking action begins! I am thrilled and wanted to let you know what it was and, to thank you again for sharing all of your knowledge and information.
That’s freaking awesome!!!!! Love hearing stuff like that especially when I’m right generally people don’t tell me when I’m wrong well some people don’t… lol so sweet you might learn a thing or two from me and then sometimes you learn how not to do things…. 😂😂😂
Hey man, thanks for the video! I have this exact issue with my pedal and after I tried almost everything Ì was hoping this could be it. Took out 2 fuses abs related one at a time but it made no difference in my case. 2 weeks ago I took the car to a shop to have it bled with the diagnostic, they told the the abs was ok, they were right, next thing is the master cylinder, I think that is it. I like your videos they have a lot of information and you can deliver it with lots of fun. Thanks
Thanks Sam I really appreciate having folks like you on my channel so welcome I’ve got an exceptional video on how to replace that master cylinder without bleeding the entire brake system… Little trick I learned a couple decades ago that I’ve used several times. You may like it as well ruclips.net/video/EGHQbBfGe8A/видео.html
Indeed …. But they help me see… I guess you just learn something from somebody who is severely handicapped or maybe you didn’t learn anything but anyways
i have a truck chev S10 1985 sitting for some time so i go to move it and the brake pedal dont push down it hard very low a dot fluid is it the master what do you think i dont see any fluid anywhere..right now thanks what do you think i got..? 04/30/2023
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Hi Clay :-) I have a 2012 Lexus GX460... new brakes, brakes bled 3 times, pins greased... random soft pedal with poor stopping power... I am in Livonia Michigan. Would you be willing to look at the car if I get it over to you?
I changed front brake pads and rotors on 2017 BMW X3 and now I have spongy break pedal. I did not remove any break line so there shouldn't be air in the line. Is there any special adjustment procedure for BMW? I couldn't find Abs fuse to try (there are more than one I think).
I have same issue but with a Mitsubishi after replacing front pads, did not remove calipers, just one pin on each to swap out the pads. Pin was regreesed on each caliper before putting back. Brakes work well but feel soft and pedal has a lot of travel. Brake fluid is at max line, I have no idea what I could have done to cause this.
@@planetwally I found the problem for my situation. It turned out that I did not put that metal brake pad recliners correctly. That metal parts hold pads in place and apply enough pressure. Without them breaks feel spongy. Make sure you pud new pads back as original ones.
One of the few people who do not complain about that video… I guess they’re taking their anger and frustration out on me because I know that’s a fantastic video.. thank you very much George
my problem is i had hit a curb head-on which blew out the sidewall of my front passenger tire...i now have spongy brakes with no apparant leaks, and NO warning lights...this is on an '09 Town & Country minivan...had no brake problems at all before i slid (ice) into the curb...caliper is mounted to the front of the rotor, but i am 'assuming' the rim diameter would've still protected the caliper...all i can figure is the sticking pin you suggested...again, no warning lights, and my Bluedriver code reader didn't show any ABS codes even though it should be able to...gonna pull the ABS fuse when it's daytime to see if that makes any difference...thanks for the video
hi,i live in the uk,i changed my rear axle on a ford fiesta 2009,so i had to take a brake pipe off each back wheel,put it all back together now i cant get the brakes to bleed when i open the bleeding nipple im getting a dribble of fluid coming out passenger rear and also front ones are dribbling out drivers rear shoots out,if i pump the brake with engine off the pedal goes hard,when i start it the pedal travels to the floor,any help or advice would be great,and thanks in advance
I did a brake change on my car. It’s a front wheele drive and my rear brake pads needed changed, I changed the rear passenger side brakes which is the farthest from the master cylinder. I couldn’t compress the caliper at all, I went and bought a new caliper and installed it while I was bleeding in the new caliper my brakes went super soft. I went around the other tires and bled them all. After and nothing got better, I have breaks they just won’t engage untill they reach the bottom, rn I’m letting it sit so I can check for leaks, next I’m going to the passenger side and I’m going to do that break pad change and I’m going to make sure the rear pins are moving. And than I’m going to check the front tires. I have break pads on all 4 tires and the make is a 2012 ford fusion dose anyone have any ideas.
My man, even though it was rather distracting with the short clips.. sometimes they were funny though, after spending two days, figuring out why my brakes were still spongy (I just changed all rotors and pads and calipers) as soon as you said that the drain valve is always on top I went to looked and realized they gave me two driver side calipers lol!!! Thank you my friend
Yeah, sometimes it gets boring making great videos not everybody likes them but you know they always have really good information in them. I really try to make sure that I inform and inspire people to do things themselves… so it all works out in the end
Been searching for 2 days now. Brakes build pressure when truck is off, but when truck is running, pedal goes to the floor. My intuition says brake booster since it has to do with vacuums.
Wow, there are others, and yes I found it so distracting that I couldn't pay attention to what he was talking about. He's pretty likable but that was a bit much through the whole video.
Mine don’t seem to sink when held down too much but they’re definitely spongey and need to travel more than I feel they should. I wonder if my rear brakes need adjusted - if not it could be in my master. I don’t have ABS in my vehicle which makes things a lot simpler
Thank you sometimes I get on peoples nerves I just think it takes the right type of person to understand me….. I can’t tell you if that’s a good thing or a bad thing but it’s definitely a clay thing…… Welcome to the channel my Mechanic friend happy to have you appreciate the kind words
That’s pretty easy because I make superb videos and making superb videos is not always easy…. When you’re making videos and you make 1100 videos over the course of years, some of them are great. Some of them are spectacular and some of them are terrible. However, this particular video that you’re mentioning is a spectacular video and if you’re having this problem, I guarantee this video will show you the solution. Making normal videos about break repair is not any fun …. But I am and that’s why I have lots and lots of followers.
I think I have an extraordinary problem here, there is zero resistance on the brake pedal but the brakes are working strong and good when the pedal is depressed halfway. The resistance from the pedal disappears while the vehicle is moving. What is the cause of this problem?
Air inside the system. Pull the ABS fuse see if the problem goes away The reason I say there’s air inside the system is because once the engine is started it’s creating vacuum pulling down your brake booster without the engine running there is no vacuum so there’s no assistance for the pedal
Then that means that you need a new ABS controller you can usually change the controller without actually bleeding the system so you do not have air in your system. You have air trapped in between your solenoid packs inside the ABS controller so if you change out just the electrical portion of the controller more than likely you won’t even have to touch the brakes again.
Good stuff. Im trying to research what my problem is with my 99 4runner, started with a sinking brake pedal then i could pump 1 time and get the full pedal but over 1 week this got worse to where car started rolling off from red lights and stop signs then after work climbed in the car and its gotten way worse to where i had to use E-brake to stop it so i left it at work . Im hoping my issue is badly worn pads on the front and maybe the slides need cleaned. I know for sure its not leaking any fluid.
can you not stitch these random clips in while you’re giving us info, they arent that funny and they make me lose my train of thought, its like listening to a song where the lyrics overlap eachother it just doesnt make any sense. its a shame too cuz you’re giving great info and detail but then you cancel it out with with these random clips that i assure you i am not “laughing my ash off”
I have not tried the abs fuses but I did have the master cylinder replaced and sent to mechanic to have it bleed through a machine and I did bench bleed the cylinder before installing it. The air was completely out and I still have spongy brakes. The mechanics used the machine and did a manual bleed and told me it seemed fine no air was in the lines but they can not get the brake pedal back to normal. I went to 2 mechanics and it's still not fixed I'm wasting money not sure what is the issue. I have no visible leaks
I know I'm extremely late to this party but anybody got a link to the video on the ABS unit replacement? I was having the same exact issue in my Silverado pulled the ABS fuse this morning and yep got brakes now😂. I can't find the video though of him replacing it?? Help
Really? That’s hilarious you have no idea what type of person I am and I don’t know many other mechanics that tell people to do things themselves because if anybody else can do it, they can do it too because they’re always trying to get the money out of peoples pockets, so tell me how many other mechanics make 900+ videos and get paid 2/10 of ascent for it? Also, yeah, I took grade offense to this because that’s a bunch of fucking bullshit. I am not a stereotypical Mechanic you asshole.
@@sharpcarco well I got through it but I had a different situation come up. My rear driver side caliper bleeder valve stem broke off. So I had to skip it. Idk how that'll work but hopefully I can figure something out.
I would recommend re-watching the video because I guarantee you your problem is mentioned in this video at some point or another.. I don’t think there’s anything that I left out of this video and if there was something that I forgot, somebody would’ve mentioned it in the comments
Took my F150 to a local garage to replace my right front brake pads and hose. The brake caliber was compressing but not releasing. Hose problem right? Well the mechanics discovered that the caliber was no good. However since I told em I'll replace it all next week they agree to temp fix. Replace hose and pads. Well somehow this made it worst. Now my brakes don't seem to work at all. Very spungy peddle. Been spungy for weeks, but never like this. All I had them do was replace the hose on the right front. How did it suddenly get a whole lot worse? No signs of leakage around the hose. They claim master cylinder is no good. $200 for the local service. $80 for the parts I got from O'Reilly. I'm broke now with no truck. No means to earn money. So I'll nee ot borrow. But I have no idea what I need to get fixed. Replace the Master Cylinder, or get new calibers or both? It shouldve got better not worse. 😕
When the vehicle is not running and you pump up the brake pedal, does it get hard? Then a couple of moments later get soft again without even touching it.
Well, I actually don’t think I have a brake bleeding video. I have a brake bleeding video without bleeding the brakes but that’s only for when you change the master cylinder. I’ll let you mention it I don’t think I have one at all I suppose the thinking might’ve been that most people know how to bleed breaks that’s not a cut on you this video pertains to everything but brake bleeding which I think I put the title. The problem is most people will bleed the brakes and then still have other issues. It wasn’t a bleeding situation that they’re running into. I like that
Having a hellava problem getting air out of my Rav4's lines. Even bought a scan tool to Auto Bleed the system. Ooooohh, you are wrong about never having to bleed after even pad change. Toyota DIY'ers report soft-low pedal even when replacing pads, and not even touching the pads. It's a maddening problem with Toyotas.
loved it..BUT my issue is brakes just as you described..only I have no lights on. .took out abs fuse and light on..goes off when fuse returned to fuse box..unpluged controller,light on..replug controller ..light off..
My 99 suburban brakes are hard with engine off and spongy with engine on. Can someone tell me what could be wrong. Abs was set and brakes were bled but still have spongy breaks, can someone help
I don’t know how you came to that conclusion I’m guessing that you watched the end of the video. It wasn’t a missing speed signal…… Had nothing to do with it
Thank you very much this is one of my more favorite videos that I ever made and you’re right it’s hard to know what the hell I’m talking about until I actually solve the problem sometimes when you’re making these videos you’re not sure which direction to go and how to inform people without boring them to death. I know some people get annoyed by the little bit of humor that I put in there but I think ultimately in the end people will enjoy the video more than they dislike it at least that’s the hope…..
Okay, You failed to mention two more things that can cause pedal to get soft! Because I just experienced this on my 2017 honda civic sport touring 1.5L turbo engine model. The plastic piece of shit PCV Valve stuck open and caused a vacuum leak that was robbing the brake booster of the vacuum it needed to properly work! And the other thing that can cause an issue is the vent silinoid on the EVAP system! Or if the dingle berry pumping your gas ( I live in Oregon and we don't pump are own gas like the rest of the United States of America! ) tried to top off the tank after the nossle has already shut off! It can push fuel into the charcoal canister designed to catch the hydrocarbons or fumes and store them until the computer tells the purge Valve to open and introduce them into the intake manifold to be burned. Or, the caplets fuel inlet has crap around the sealing surface and when it does its leak test and pressure escapes! How am I doing boss? 😉
Here's one for ya, I worked 15 years in auto parts sales.. 10 of which as an ASE Certified parts pro and no one ever told me that a bubble flare can only be used once! I have a leak on the ABS unit on my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it can not be fixed by tightening the line screw. As a matter of fact, when I tried just that it made the leak much worse and now I have to splice the line at the ABS unit then bleed it out.
Very interesting thanks for sharing… I never noticed that but I suppose that makes a lot of sense. It doesn’t hurt to try out I guess but worth pinning this comment.
I've spent 3 months and hundreds of dollar trying to figure out why I had no brakes. As soon as you said you pulled the ABS fuse. I pulled it and drove my truck without issue for the first time and many hours of labor you were the solution. Thank you so much and I hope you continue to inspire people to do jobs on their own.
Did it not show the abs check light on the clock
Yep. I’m pulling that fuse today!
Most car makers , especially European ones, won't allow you to de- activate the ABS - basically the car won't start.
@@RichardOgoye that’s because I didn’t have one
Is this a comedy channel or an automotive channel? The edits from that film are too much man just get to the freaking point. I’m tryna learn here.
Totally agree. I had to keep skipping that part.
Upright?
One question- what then?
😂😂😂
An den …
Maybe he wants to pis us off too
That was the point....And............then?
Thanks a million. I never noticed this but couldn't figure out why my brakes were spongy after replacing the front calipers and bleeding all four wheels multiple times. After watching this, I realized I installed them on the wrong side.
Sir, If I was next to you right now I would give you the biggest hug you have ever had. Many people have tried to fix my 2005 silverado 1500 with no luck. Issue with the pedal going to the floor when running. Although not to the floor when off, still not normal. I watched your video, and sure enough, there was the answer. All the years doing brakes, My son and I somehow put the calipers on the wrong side and the bleeder is in fact, on the bottom. All I can say is I LOVE YOU!!!!!! Crossing fingers that does the trick. Thank you and yes I subscribed!
Haha I love to hear things like that! I really hope this helped you folks. We love you as well! Thanks for watching 😎
@@sharpcarco I wanted to add that the bracket appears to be a left right issue as well. Has a nub on the bottom, so I had to swap that over too. Thanks Again Pal!
Hey bliss why was your solution to the issue same thing here
He said his calipers were installed on the wrong sides of the vehicle, because the bleeder screw was at the bottom and not at the top
@@dude4548 It sure was. Because I took the brakes apart months in advance, (because we installed upper and lower ball joints), Neither one of us noticed we put the brake caliper upside down, and just like clay said, the air was getting trapped.
Great video. I’m having the peddle go all the way to the floor with vehicle the vehicle running. Just had the rear drums& solenoids replaced about 6 months ago. Just stated taking place the last 2 months. I’m going to replace the check valve & hydraulic hoses 1st. No leaks that I can find so far, no loss of fluid. Sometimes the peddle is okay, other times I have to pump 2-3-4x and then I get peddle and other times I’m not certain if I’m going to stop, but this is usually coming off the highway. Cold or warm weather doesn’t matter. Thank you Sir! New subscriber.
Did you get the problem sorted?
What was the solution?
Thanks
Great video!! 😂 I was so upset about having this problem but this video calmed me down and gave me useful information!!!
Great video, and loved the "And then" clips.
Dude. You are the man. So thorough. Thank you! I am now a subscriber.
HUGE HELP thank you for this video. My 1998 Toyota rav4 was having issues with spongy brakes. Especially when SLOWLY pressing on the brake pedal it would reach the floor pretty consistently.
I started by flushing the entire system from the 24 year old brake fluid. when that didn't completely fix my issue I took the brake drum off and made sure everything was clean and looked connected properly.
funny enough I didn't realize they auto adjust when depressing the brake pedal and did this while the drum was off. Causing the rear brakes to get set to the max position, eventually leaking from the master cylinders in the drums and leaking out fluid. After learning that, I spun the star WAY further back than necessary causing my car to have basically no rear braking. After watching your video and a few others I got those adjusted and the brakes are much much better in the rar. Still having issues with the pedal reaching the floor and after some suggestions online and your video I'm pretty confident the master cylinder is leaking internally. Picked up a brand new one and I'm gonna throw it on tomorrow.
Thanks again! Going to watch one of your playlists tonight ;)
Did you get the problem sorted?
What was the solution?
Thanks
@fintan2830 the answer is definitely in the video…. But maybe he’ll answer you.
Amazing & very informative video thanks so much. I think im having trouble with my brake booster after watching this. Makes a super loud hissing noise when i press the brake, goes all the way to the ground, the noise stopa, takes super long for the truck to stop. Truck is running extremely rich & has no power.
One of the first people who’s ever said this that I actually believe that it’s probably a good possibility that your brake booster is bad. You can unplug your brake booster vacuum tube block that vacuum tube off and if your truck starts running better, you will know for sure.
@sharpcarco many thanks sir!
I pulled the valve on the booster & put my thumb over it, ran a little faster when I did but still didn't sound like a great engine 🙃
Great video! And editing lol! Love that scene.
Same exact thing happen to me, I. Replaced my master cylinder and I took the fuse out of my A. B s and now by brakes, work perfectly fine
You are really funny but I subscribed because of your humility to be honest about being wrong. That integrity is rare on youtube.
Well, very very happy to have you, I’ll try not to be wrong in videos, but sometimes I actually do it on purpose. Like I’ll take off the battery cables the wrong way on purpose because I don’t really think it matters all that much but there are a lot of Internet armchair mechanics that will comment. I also drop calipers. With the brake line attached so people will say things because comments push the algorithm.
I don’t do stuff like I did in this video on a lot of videos. I just figured most the time break videos. Tell you the same generic stuff. I know mine doesn’t go through all of the steps that I could think of at the time.
I get a lot of complaints about this video . But the people who actually sit and watch it realize that there wasn’t much that I did not cover.
It’s just boring, sometimes making videos about the same subject that other people have covered I’d prefer to have a follower than a subscriber. So welcome and I’m very very happy to have you.
My original master cylinder was working perfectly fine but the fluid was very dark even after the brake flush. I noticed my rear wheel cylinder was leaking so i wanted to baby my truck and install a brand new ACDelco master cylinder and new wheel cylinders. Oh boy I had a horrible time bleeding the rear drum brakes. Brake pedal was going all the way to the floor. I searched RUclips videos to help me with my issue. So it seemed like ABS control module might have air. So i kept and kept bleeding it without luck. I went to my junk yard location to find a used ABS module. I spent almost half a day looking for one until i found one. Went home tried on and same results. I also purchased another proportioning valve because it might be the problem. Installed and same results. My brake light was on, and almost no pressure to the rear lines. So I came across to a video explaining how to rest the proportioning valve to keep it open so fluid could travel to the rear line and same results. I bought a lot of bottles of brake fluid I spent about 70 dollars on fluid. I could recycle it and reuse it but it was turning dark and green so i didn't want to reuse it. So there were another videos that explained about some wheel cylinders could be bad and have defective seals and it could suction air back to the system. So I purchased another set of wheel cylinders installed them and same results. I was loosing my brain cells. I purchased a 80 dollars brake bleeder and didn't help at all. Same problem pedal all the way to the floor. I gave up and i took it to Firestone to the pros, so they can diagnose the main problem and the truck was there all day and they didn't find the issue. I was told it was because i removed the ABS MODULE and computer. That i needed a new ABS computer and a rebuild the ABS module otherwise i would keep have this issue. They quoted me a leg and arms so no way i could afford it. It was like buying the truck again. I went home all sad and disappointed. They didn't even bother to check the master cylinder because it was brand new and original supposedly. I knew my old was working so I was like you know what ima install it back but honestly i didn't want to because it was old and looked beaten by the years. At this point I didn't care. So I removed the master cylinder and BOOMS!!! My pressure was there instantly!! My pedal was firm and hard. No more brake light on!! After a week of pure stress, finally, i could breathe. This part gave me a headache I don't wish this to anybody. I hope you never get to go through this.
This covers really well a lot of the issues I have worked through over the last 3 months regarding my brakes.
basically im at the Master cylinder due to possible having ruined it when bleeding out air from it, which can be done without removing it.. the air i put there due to having drained the brake fluid when removing my broken calipers.. where the vents were shut.
but this gives a really good picture how brakes possibly don't work
Gonna go replace my master though.. since that is most likely why my brake pedal is slightly spongy.
thanks for this vid.
and then!!
And Den !!! Thank you I appreciate the kind words Martin and welcome to the channel we’re very happy to have folks like you here.
@@sharpcarco and..... deeeeeeeeeeeeen
THANKS MATE I PULL THE FUSE ON IT AND YOU WHERE RIGHT THANKS AGAIN.
Do I pull it when the car is running or when it is shut down?
So after you pull the fuse what do you do to fix the problem?
Unwatchable. I bailed after 2 minutes.
lol same here
As promised, you covered it all, turns out it was upside down front calipers. Thanks a million, a grateful Polock!
That’s freaking awesome!!! I really do love to hear that my simpler videos Truly lead to just honest mistakes.
Subscribed. Period. Fantastic and No one have this info.. If brake line, brake pad, no leaks on brake caliper, cylinder etc, can i assume my master cylinder is leaking internally, and after changing master cylinder, can i condemn ABS. seemms like testing master cylinder is not practically possible except ruling all others out. can i check ABS by unplugging the fuse? again for spongy
i couldn't watch the whole thing because i got so annoyed with the editing with the movie clip, great content but for future videos i highly recommend to keep it away from unnecessary editing ... wishing all the best regardles.
Bye Felicia
its so frustating to come for answers and have a guy making jokes instead of getting to topic
@@seizera7586you want DADa to heat up a bottle of warm milk for the wittle baby. Don't worry your civic hatchback w the fart can probably won't brake due to your bad driving
How would you remove the break booster if you needed to on a Pontiac/Equinox since it’s so difficult to access ?
What would you remove to be able to get a booster out and back in?
You really don’t have to do anything but remove the master similar Nuts
Then you go from the inside and you remove four nuts, holding on the brake booster with the linkage connected to the brake pedal, and you can gently push the master cylinder out of the way as long as you do not have to bend the brake lines to move it out of your way far enough
Oh boy. I have been wanting to get rid of my ABS. I have to watch your next video. So a fuse pulled out fixed this pedal to the floor? Still there would have had to have been air in the ABS? I mean the fluid was going somewhere right?
Actually there wasn’t any air in the system I know it doesn’t make a lot of sense it honestly doesn’t make sense to me either.
I 100% agree with you but I actually did a video after this one replacing the ABS module on this vehicle without bleeding any of the brake system and now the ABS works just fine.
I don’t necessarily think that it was air I think it was the valve chamber that does have air inside it causing the pedal to go to the floor because that valve was not functioning properly. It’s necessary for the ABS system to have a pocket of air inside it so it can pulsate the brake system.
Welcome to the channel James very good, greatly appreciate it
I replaced a rear passenger caliper and realised they gave me a driver side one after installing it and when i tried to bleed it cause some oil leaked, only a bit of oil came out with some bubble and then stopped flowing and the master cylinder was topped off. After all that i tested it and my break pedal felt sligtly softer and was making that whoosh sound when i pressed on the breaks, you covered thats caused by a faulty brake booster but should that be replaced or is it something you can live with ?
I’ve replaced MC, booster, brake pads, calipers, rotors, drums, drum brakes (kit), shoes, bled, no air, clean fluid, no leaks…
E brake works fine. Drum brake could use a little more adjusting…
Pulled one ABS fuse. Light came on but didn’t help with soft pedal (until I feel brakes 75% depression).
There is a second ABS fuse for rear wheels and cruise control.
I haven’t tried that, yet.
Tomorrow.
Perhaps a new control module if no change with brake drum adjustment and removal of back ABS fuse.
I still have the rubber brake lines.
Maybe I’ll swap those out for steel braided, too.
2000 Subaru Forester, 2.5 L, L Series, MT5. 117k miles. Given to me by a client 4 years ago if I could do the work on it. Head gasket leak; not bad. Not overheating, no oil in coolant/vise versa. I only drive it a few month out of the year. I have 4 other vehicles also between my daughter and I that I keep running.
Thank you for your informative video. My daughter would get a kick out of the humor… and theeeennn! 😂
Very exceptional, thanks
Ok so after u pull the abs fuse if it works well.....what about the fuse ...dont you need the fuse in.does it affect the vehicle with no abs fuse.is there a fix for the fuse being in .
Great Video, Keep Up The Good Work, Many Thanks.....
Ill try that! No one has made this suggestion!
So how did you fix the issue, replace the fuse? We have the same problems, no visible leaks, replaced brake pads, one caliper, master cylinder, purged ABS pump, bled the brakes plenty times. Thinking is that the ABS is faulty, however no warning light has ever come on for the brakes.
😂 watch the video
@@sharpcarco I did, i expect that fixing the ABS control unit then solved the problem and removing the fuse, deactivated the ABS, ok got it.
@@karinhoehler7937 when I removed the fuse, and I no longer had ABS actuation at every stop that told me that the ABS controller was bad then in another video, I showed people how to remove the ABS controller without having to bleed the brakes that’s under my Chevy and it’s titled Chevy Equinox ABS control replacement
@@sharpcarco thanks, we suspect an ABS problem, however no warning light is coming on at all. Thanks
@@sharpcarco Sooo, when it comes to a diesel engine, what about the vacuum pump being the problem, any experience in this?
Master cylinder can be bad without leaking.. it can fail internally and never leak, just look at the fluid in the reservoir, if it’s black you have a bad Master cylinder… thanks for the video
Low budget but funny movie...watched it like 30 times, haha
Alpena michigan, hello neighbor. Great video
😂😂 most entertaining car video I've watched. Chris fix who?
I know I freaking responded to this message. Stupid RUclips that was hilarious but I think he’s better than me to be honest with you. He just doesn’t make videos like I make any more.
Chris is sorry he didn't wear his Micky Mouse outfit for you.
Also if you want entertainment? Read his responses to comments.🤣
Great video and great commercial 😂
Thanks brother. GREAT video!!!
Thanks Christopher I appreciate you saying that
Part of me wants to rewatch this video because of the movie scenes even more than trying to learn all the brake possibilities better lol (if that makes sense). You inspired me to watch that movie a month or two ago and I didn’t know what I was missing.
Yeah, I wish the guy that made that movie wouldn’t have stole all of my money from my video because I used his screen cuts…
Some people don’t like the way I do things some people do
I know that I’m OK what I do but it gets boring just telling people information so I try to make it a little bit fun even though most people are irritated when they’re watching these videos and they just want to know what is wrong with their car … well it’s intentionally called the Clay way on purpose 🤯😂😂😂 because it’s not everybody else’s way, but welcome to the Channell Wyatt greatly appreciate you. Hope you figured out your ride. Thank you for not getting to irritated with me.
@@sharpcarco It’s a pleasure! It stinks when that happens but at least RUclips didn’t discipline you by taking money from other videos, kind of like how TikTok will just ban your whole account if you do things they don’t like. I stripped my power steering box trying to replace the line but weeks later, I’m feeling inspired to pick up the wrenches again (although in reality it’s sockets and ratchet bc I don’t use wrenches 99% of the time). I think a $85 steering box on my 98 XJ is a lot cheaper than giving into the temptation to scrap the vehicle I’ve spent closer to $2K on. The last thing I was doing on it was related to the brakes but I can’t road test it or do anything at all until I swallow my irrational pride and replace the box. I love how my inspiration works, I only wanna work on it at night time when it’s dark (and now cold) and I can’t see anything. It’s that Romeo and Juliet concept.
Have a 91 camaro with a rear disc conversion. Now the brakes are spongy and the rear brakes squeel at low speeds. New master cylinder, new proportional valve stiffer spring. Any ideas?
Hey Matthew check out the calipers themselves make sure they’re not installed on the wrong sides the bleeder screws should be at the top of the calipers they will fit on either side.
They're at the top. How would I tell if the caliper pin is seized?
I got a gen 3 (2010) CRV last year. Just got a new master cylinder in and pedal is still soft and sponges just not nearly as bad as it used too. Brakes are responsive and work, just a spongey pedal. Do you notice these cars having soft brakes normally?
I do see that quite a bit.
Without being the one to work on them I can’t really tell you what the solutions are but if you go through and check the things that I talk about in this video, they’re going to be as good as they possibly can be
@@sharpcarco your experience they normally have soft pedals?
I did the same thing i have replaced everything you have mentioned except for the master cylinder.Im on disability and so is my son and I don't have the money to take it to the shop I have a 2004 Dakota 2 wd 3.7 it's sat there for at least 5 months and I have replaced everything and bled the brakes is there a test for the abs module
Great video! Literate production and a complete guide for dummies as well as for pros! Fantastic reminder and thanks! I hope i fix my issue after implementing your tips 🔥🫶🏻🌹
I hope so too!
Pulled my abs fuses and it frickn worked! Whats the odds two mechanics couldnt figure this out. Thank you
No problem 😎 glad I could help.
Right now I’m actually working on how to fix it fix it like fix the old control unit because that was the problem I had another video where I show you how to change that thing. But I literally just got done with a Saturn that had the same exact problem. So I’m going to disassemble the old control unit because apparently something must be burning up inside it.
I should’ve probably done this year’s ago
I'm going to go home and try this today pull out the ABS fuse I've changed my master cylinder already and bled the air out and still soon as the car starts the pedal hits the floor no pressure in there
I'm having a issue I can't figure out. My check brake system light comes on after driving about 10 minutes. Nothing seems out of the ordinary when braking. When I turn the truck off then back on, the light is gone until I start driving again. What could it be? Fluid is full. No leaks. Brakes normally
OK, so if we think about it
It doesn’t happen till after you’re driving it for a while so it’s a signal that the ECM is getting after it’s been moving so that eliminates a lot of things so that tells us it’s more than likely a wheel speed sensor, and if you hook up the scanner to it and watch the live data from all wheels that will show you which wheel is turning slower or faster than it’s supposed to be
Do you have different size tires on your vehicle? That would be one you can personally eliminate without any kind of technology
If you don’t have ability to scanner a will figure that out pretty quick I hope that’s helpful for you
@sharpcarco I don't currently have a scanner to check. But wouldn't the abs light come on as well? It's just the brake check light coming on. Tires are bigger but nothing crazy. My understanding is the only thing that can set that light off is the brake fluid sensor, the parking brake switch, a bad master cylinder, and a faulty instrument cluster. I also had my anti theft light come on at the same time today and both went out then 10 mins later the brake check light came on again. It also just hit me that there is an aftermarket electron brake control mounted under the steering wheel. It cuts off when the check brake system light comes on. Could that have something to do with it?
Hey i have brake issue with my accord since 2 years now i have done all the possible things but still not fixed i have changes master cylinder, abs modulator, checked calipers no leakage, changes pads as well
Dude, you just commented back a day or two ago on a comment about how I think I know something(brakes) and I end up having a problem I can't figure out. I ran into this video today. I just bleed the master cylinder and thought I'd got my problem fixed until I hit the road. I'm still stuck. Her car, the pedal is soft the first push, if you let up and hit it again, it has great pedal. Does this everytime we use the brake, first pump is soft and goes several inches, let up and hit again and plenty of pedal. I'll double check the slid pins next. it has disk brakes all the way around, but drum parking brake. I don't think that's hooked to the hydrolic system.
@@robbyddurham1624 sorry Robbie I never seen this. I would’ve told you that you have a leak somewhere. It is possible possible to have a leak without actually having fluid come out. Believe it or not it could be a simple as a loose bleeder screw.
@@sharpcarco The problem was the rubber bushing on the slide pin. The front bushings were built in and also kept grease in and dirt out, I had to replace the whole bushing. It was about an inch long. The bushings are supposed to keep the brakes from rattling or something.
@@robbyddurham1624 well my comment was wrong, but my video wasn’t… I was trying to think of things that I didn’t actually show in the video.
My 1998 dodge B1500 Van has had a low brake pedal since I got it 5 months ago. It does not sink all the way to the floor, nor does it continue to sink, it just goes about 75% to the floor. The brakes do not engage until that point. The brake fluid was old and I had a seized front caliper so I flushed the brake lines with new fluid until they all ran clear, then I installed the calipers and bled the system. Master cylinder is right at full mark, no system leaks. The pedal does not pump up when I push it down it just goes back to the same low position. Van stops just fine but I hate the pedal is so low. No dash indicator lights for abs or brakes are lit and no trouble codes in the OBD II system. I do not suspect the master cylinder but I suppose it still could be. This van was parked for a long time and I suspect possibly the rear drum brakes are out of adjustment and the adjusters are probably not working right as you suggested. (Thank you) Today, I just replaced the 2 rear wheel bearings and seals (Had a bad bearing) and changed differential gear oil. The drums came off easily so I suspect there might be too much clearance as usually the shoes are so close to the drums they make taking them off difficult in my experience. Tomorrow, I will try backing up a few times and braking to see if it changes anything. I will adjust manually if needed. If no change then next will be the fuses for the abs to test. Thanks again for this very comprehensive video Sir. Lots of great information very well explained.
Well thanks brother I greatly greatly appreciate you taking the time to write that message when I was reading it I was thinking exactly the same thing you’re saying it’s got to be drum brakes in the rear and they have to be out of adjustment. Generally that back up procedure will not work unless the brake shoe is contacting the inside of the drum at some point, so that’s why we hit the brakes hard while we’re backing up.
As far as the video goes sometimes they don’t turn out that well lol but I do like the information in this one even though I was being a little bit silly I’m certain you’re on the right path and I’m certain that you’re going to figure that out that’s gonna make all the difference in the world Welcome to the channel. I’m so happy to have folks like you here. They will take the time to say nice things very very much appreciated.
@@sharpcarco Thank you for replying. I did 3 pretty hard reverse braking stops from about 15 mph in my van this morning and guess what? That pedal is now at the very top of it's travel and I only need to move it like 1/8" before braking action begins! I am thrilled and wanted to let you know what it was and, to thank you again for sharing all of your knowledge and information.
That’s freaking awesome!!!!! Love hearing stuff like that especially when I’m right generally people don’t tell me when I’m wrong well some people don’t… lol so sweet you might learn a thing or two from me and then sometimes you learn how not to do things…. 😂😂😂
GREAT VID !!
Hey man, thanks for the video! I have this exact issue with my pedal and after I tried almost everything Ì was hoping this could be it. Took out 2 fuses abs related one at a time but it made no difference in my case. 2 weeks ago I took the car to a shop to have it bled with the diagnostic, they told the the abs was ok, they were right, next thing is the master cylinder, I think that is it. I like your videos they have a lot of information and you can deliver it with lots of fun. Thanks
Thanks Sam I really appreciate having folks like you on my channel so welcome
I’ve got an exceptional video on how to replace that master cylinder without bleeding the entire brake system…
Little trick I learned a couple decades ago that I’ve used several times.
You may like it as well
ruclips.net/video/EGHQbBfGe8A/видео.html
@@sharpcarco thank you, I will watch the video as it can be a lot easier for me not having to bleed the whole system.
Do i replace the fuse or just leave it out or replace the abs
Well the fuse is not bad so replacing it would not change anything, ABS Controller … needs replacing
OK this video is making me a little crazy...... really very funny.
Haha thank you!
The spectacles on this man are legendary
Indeed …. But they help me see… I guess you just learn something from somebody who is severely handicapped or maybe you didn’t learn anything but anyways
@@sharpcarcoyou're a unique person with great character. This video really helped me and yes, your spectacles are awesome haha
Great Work !! Thank you brother!
i have a truck chev S10 1985 sitting for some time so i go to move it and the brake pedal dont push down it hard very low a dot fluid is it the master what do you think i dont see any fluid anywhere..right now thanks what do you think i got..?
04/30/2023
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Hi Clay :-) I have a 2012 Lexus GX460... new brakes, brakes bled 3 times, pins greased... random soft pedal with poor stopping power... I am in Livonia Michigan. Would you be willing to look at the car if I get it over to you?
Hilarious 😂 teacher 🧑🏫 I’m still learning though
I changed front brake pads and rotors on 2017 BMW X3 and now I have spongy break pedal. I did not remove any break line so there shouldn't be air in the line. Is there any special adjustment procedure for BMW? I couldn't find Abs fuse to try (there are more than one I think).
The caliper Hass to float someway and it’s obviously not floating. That’s why you have a spongee brake pedal.
@@sharpcarco Thank you for the quick reply. What did I do wrong why my caliper not floating? I cleaned pins well and apply fair amount of greese.
I have same issue but with a Mitsubishi after replacing front pads, did not remove calipers, just one pin on each to swap out the pads. Pin was regreesed on each caliper before putting back. Brakes work well but feel soft and pedal has a lot of travel. Brake fluid is at max line, I have no idea what I could have done to cause this.
@@planetwally I found the problem for my situation. It turned out that I did not put that metal brake pad recliners correctly. That metal parts hold pads in place and apply enough pressure. Without them breaks feel spongy. Make sure you pud new pads back as original ones.
I gotta be honest with you. I never thought of that one that’s a pretty good one…. Good find.
In my case it was the brake booster and master cylinder. My master cylinder was slowly leaking fluid in the booster.
1st video i watched from start to end without skipping
Very informative and very creative. Well done 😂
One of the few people who do not complain about that video… I guess they’re taking their anger and frustration out on me because I know that’s a fantastic video.. thank you very much George
my problem is i had hit a curb head-on which blew out the sidewall of my front passenger tire...i now have spongy brakes with no apparant leaks, and NO warning lights...this is on an '09 Town & Country minivan...had no brake problems at all before i slid (ice) into the curb...caliper is mounted to the front of the rotor, but i am 'assuming' the rim diameter would've still protected the caliper...all i can figure is the sticking pin you suggested...again, no warning lights, and my Bluedriver code reader didn't show any ABS codes even though it should be able to...gonna pull the ABS fuse when it's daytime to see if that makes any difference...thanks for the video
Thank you bubbles
I git a question about a 97 chev spongy pedal znd noisy belt prob.
hi,i live in the uk,i changed my rear axle on a ford fiesta 2009,so i had to take a brake pipe off each back wheel,put it all back together now i cant get the brakes to bleed when i open the bleeding nipple im getting a dribble of fluid coming out passenger rear and also front ones are dribbling out drivers rear shoots out,if i pump the brake with engine off the pedal goes hard,when i start it the pedal travels to the floor,any help or advice would be great,and thanks in advance
I did a brake change on my car. It’s a front wheele drive and my rear brake pads needed changed, I changed the rear passenger side brakes which is the farthest from the master cylinder. I couldn’t compress the caliper at all, I went and bought a new caliper and installed it while I was bleeding in the new caliper my brakes went super soft. I went around the other tires and bled them all. After and nothing got better, I have breaks they just won’t engage untill they reach the bottom, rn I’m letting it sit so I can check for leaks, next I’m going to the passenger side and I’m going to do that break pad change and I’m going to make sure the rear pins are moving. And than I’m going to check the front tires. I have break pads on all 4 tires and the make is a 2012 ford fusion dose anyone have any ideas.
My man, even though it was rather distracting with the short clips.. sometimes they were funny though, after spending two days, figuring out why my brakes were still spongy (I just changed all rotors and pads and calipers) as soon as you said that the drain valve is always on top I went to looked and realized they gave me two driver side calipers lol!!! Thank you my friend
Yeah, sometimes it gets boring making great videos not everybody likes them but you know they always have really good information in them. I really try to make sure that I inform and inspire people to do things themselves… so it all works out in the end
Thank you Clark Kent👍👍
Here to save the Day slower than a train freight car !! It’s the Clay way
Nice to see Bubbles branching out.
Been searching for 2 days now. Brakes build pressure when truck is off, but when truck is running, pedal goes to the floor. My intuition says brake booster since it has to do with vacuums.
Issue for me was a bas ABS module
We are here to fix our brakes, not waste time with TV shows.
Wow, there are others, and yes I found it so distracting that I couldn't pay attention to what he was talking about. He's pretty likable but that was a bit much through the whole video.
Mine don’t seem to sink when held down too much but they’re definitely spongey and need to travel more than I feel they should. I wonder if my rear brakes need adjusted - if not it could be in my master. I don’t have ABS in my vehicle which makes things a lot simpler
hilarious and informative
Thank you sometimes I get on peoples nerves I just think it takes the right type of person to understand me….. I can’t tell you if that’s a good thing or a bad thing but it’s definitely a clay thing……
Welcome to the channel my Mechanic friend happy to have you appreciate the kind words
@@sharpcarco Just keep up the great work delivering the way you do bro... I appreciate you!
Too much editing man. It was funny at first, but to keep hearing ‘ and then…’ when I’m trying to learn something is very annoying
How tf has this channel got that many subs? I can’t stand anymore than a few mins of that.
That’s pretty easy because I make superb videos and making superb videos is not always easy…. When you’re making videos and you make 1100 videos over the course of years, some of them are great. Some of them are spectacular and some of them are terrible. However, this particular video that you’re mentioning is a spectacular video and if you’re having this problem, I guarantee this video will show you the solution.
Making normal videos about break repair is not any fun …. But I am and that’s why I have lots and lots of followers.
@@sharpcarco Ok my man. Just not for me then. Good luck to you though.
I think I have an extraordinary problem here, there is zero resistance on the brake pedal but the brakes are working strong and good when the pedal is depressed halfway. The resistance from the pedal disappears while the vehicle is moving. What is the cause of this problem?
Air inside the system.
Pull the ABS fuse see if the problem goes away
The reason I say there’s air inside the system is because once the engine is started it’s creating vacuum pulling down your brake booster without the engine running there is no vacuum so there’s no assistance for the pedal
@@sharpcarco same issue in my 98 mustang gt
Then that means that you need a new ABS controller you can usually change the controller without actually bleeding the system so you do not have air in your system. You have air trapped in between your solenoid packs inside the ABS controller so if you change out just the electrical portion of the controller more than likely you won’t even have to touch the brakes again.
@@sharpcarco It does not have an ABS.
@@sharpcarco dont got abs
Thanks for the Vid
No problem!
Good stuff. Im trying to research what my problem is with my 99 4runner, started with a sinking brake pedal then i could pump 1 time and get the full pedal but over 1 week this got worse to where car started rolling off from red lights and stop signs then after work climbed in the car and its gotten way worse to where i had to use E-brake to stop it so i left it at work . Im hoping my issue is badly worn pads on the front and maybe the slides need cleaned. I know for sure its not leaking any fluid.
Did you figure out what it was?
can you not stitch these random clips in while you’re giving us info, they arent that funny and they make me lose my train of thought, its like listening to a song where the lyrics overlap eachother it just doesnt make any sense. its a shame too cuz you’re giving great info and detail but then you cancel it out with with these random clips that i assure you i am not “laughing my ash off”
No, but thank you for your input.
I have not tried the abs fuses but I did have the master cylinder replaced and sent to mechanic to have it bleed through a machine and I did bench bleed the cylinder before installing it. The air was completely out and I still have spongy brakes. The mechanics used the machine and did a manual bleed and told me it seemed fine no air was in the lines but they can not get the brake pedal back to normal. I went to 2 mechanics and it's still not fixed I'm wasting money not sure what is the issue. I have no visible leaks
Ever find the issue?
I know I'm extremely late to this party but anybody got a link to the video on the ABS unit replacement? I was having the same exact issue in my Silverado pulled the ABS fuse this morning and yep got brakes now😂. I can't find the video though of him replacing it?? Help
dude all the way from south africa u are a legend the bleeding nipple was at the bottom thanks alot it worked putting the nipple rite side up
this guy is the most stereotypical mechanic guy ever
Really? That’s hilarious you have no idea what type of person I am and I don’t know many other mechanics that tell people to do things themselves because if anybody else can do it, they can do it too because they’re always trying to get the money out of peoples pockets, so tell me how many other mechanics make 900+ videos and get paid 2/10 of ascent for it? Also, yeah, I took grade offense to this because that’s a bunch of fucking bullshit. I am not a stereotypical Mechanic you asshole.
I watched this video about 12 minutes......AND THENNNN?????............Later dude!
Can air get into the lines if my cap wasn't on properly for a long period of time.
No it should not . It can definitely get contaminated. That’s not a good thing.
@@sharpcarco well I got through it but I had a different situation come up. My rear driver side caliper bleeder valve stem broke off. So I had to skip it. Idk how that'll work but hopefully I can figure something out.
@@sharpcarco thanks for the response man.
I have trit everything it's still spongy as hell only thing I haven't done is replace calibers I've done everything else still didn't fix it
I would recommend re-watching the video because I guarantee you your problem is mentioned in this video at some point or another.. I don’t think there’s anything that I left out of this video and if there was something that I forgot, somebody would’ve mentioned it in the comments
Took my F150 to a local garage to replace my right front brake pads and hose. The brake caliber was compressing but not releasing. Hose problem right? Well the mechanics discovered that the caliber was no good. However since I told em I'll replace it all next week they agree to temp fix. Replace hose and pads. Well somehow this made it worst. Now my brakes don't seem to work at all. Very spungy peddle. Been spungy for weeks, but never like this. All I had them do was replace the hose on the right front. How did it suddenly get a whole lot worse? No signs of leakage around the hose. They claim master cylinder is no good. $200 for the local service. $80 for the parts I got from O'Reilly. I'm broke now with no truck. No means to earn money. So I'll nee ot borrow. But I have no idea what I need to get fixed. Replace the Master Cylinder, or get new calibers or both? It shouldve got better not worse. 😕
When the vehicle is not running and you pump up the brake pedal, does it get hard? Then a couple of moments later get soft again without even touching it.
@@sharpcarco yes
I live in Muskegon Michigan and my mechanic can't figure out why my car's abs engages at exactly 10 mph. It's a 2006 Chevy trailblazer.
Dude, where's my car? 😎
My spongy brake pedal is a result of my lead foot 😂
That’s cause you’re a bad ass Tom!!!
Your glasses caught the light just right and burned my monitor, thanks!! :P
🤔😂
Very glad my car didnt come with the optional ABS. Less ugly crap under the hood and less to go wrong.
How much for the red tow truck model on top of the tool box? Lol
lol NFS but thanks for asking
Unless I missed it somehow, you should link the brake bleeding video.
Well, I actually don’t think I have a brake bleeding video. I have a brake bleeding video without bleeding the brakes but that’s only for when you change the master cylinder.
I’ll let you mention it I don’t think I have one at all I suppose the thinking might’ve been that most people know how to bleed breaks that’s not a cut on you this video pertains to everything but brake bleeding which I think I put the title. The problem is most people will bleed the brakes and then still have other issues. It wasn’t a bleeding situation that they’re running into.
I like that
Having a hellava problem getting air out of my Rav4's lines. Even bought a scan tool to Auto Bleed the system. Ooooohh, you are wrong about never having to bleed after even pad change. Toyota DIY'ers report soft-low pedal even when replacing pads, and not even touching the pads. It's a maddening problem with Toyotas.
loved it..BUT my issue is brakes just as you described..only I have no lights on. .took out abs fuse and light on..goes off when fuse returned to fuse box..unpluged controller,light on..replug controller ..light off..
Did the brakes work? Did they stop doing what they were doing so did removing the power help at all?
My 99 suburban brakes are hard with engine off and spongy with engine on. Can someone tell me what could be wrong. Abs was set and brakes were bled but still have spongy breaks, can someone help
Did you figure it out?
why missing speed sensor signal causing pedal to be spongy? I didn't get it.
I don’t know how you came to that conclusion I’m guessing that you watched the end of the video.
It wasn’t a missing speed signal…… Had nothing to do with it
@@sharpcarco So after you pull the fuse what do you do to fix the problem?
I replaced the control module portion of the ABS
ruclips.net/video/Nx1sT3UFtRg/видео.html
I love this video 👍
Find the real cause to a problem could be realy hard. And does not make any sens until you solved it.
Thank you very much this is one of my more favorite videos that I ever made and you’re right it’s hard to know what the hell I’m talking about until I actually solve the problem sometimes when you’re making these videos you’re not sure which direction to go and how to inform people without boring them to death. I know some people get annoyed by the little bit of humor that I put in there but I think ultimately in the end people will enjoy the video more than they dislike it at least that’s the hope…..
Initial impression: Who the f... is this guy?!?!
A few minutes later: Oh....he's good. He knows his stuff.
Okay, You failed to mention two more things that can cause pedal to get soft! Because I just experienced this on my 2017 honda civic sport touring 1.5L turbo engine model. The plastic piece of shit PCV Valve stuck open and caused a vacuum leak that was robbing the brake booster of the vacuum it needed to properly work! And the other thing that can cause an issue is the vent silinoid on the EVAP system! Or if the dingle berry pumping your gas ( I live in Oregon and we don't pump are own gas like the rest of the United States of America! ) tried to top off the tank after the nossle has already shut off! It can push fuel into the charcoal canister designed to catch the hydrocarbons or fumes and store them until the computer tells the purge Valve to open and introduce them into the intake manifold to be burned. Or, the caplets fuel inlet has crap around the sealing surface and when it does its leak test and pressure escapes! How am I doing boss? 😉
hi bro, i need to know only one simple thing... tell me what happens after And Then??? lol
Did you see the end where he smashes the shit out of that place?