@John P only 20 mph for me on a dirt road a mile and a half away. I activated the anti-lock system several times, parked it and waited till yesterday so my Son could be the break man for me. I bled all 4 wheel brake cylinders into a clean glass jar bleeder I made so I could collect the fluid for recycling and reduce cleanup. I bled them until all air and dirty fluid was remove and I got clean fluid in the jar. The difference was amazing. Obviously the Chevy Dealer tech that replaced all my brake lines for me didn’t “burp” the anti-lock brake pump as I had spongy brakes until yesterday. Now I have a full pedal and effortless braking.
you earned my subscription with this video. I've been dealing with soft spongy brakes for over a year now and after replacing my brake master cylinder 4 times , booster twice, ABS once did i still have improvement but still wasn't a normal braking. You saved me the cost of taking my car to shop tomorrow to have system flushed.. thank you for your video confirming what i suspected about the ABS needing to burped out...
Thank you so very much. You just saved me. Had to change the exact same line on the exact same truck and had the same problem. After activation of ABS about 4 times, the front passenger bled so well that it squirted me in the eye. The other eye clearly saw victory!!!! Very informative video.
I’ve had this issue since paying our local Chevy Dealer $1,300 to replace all brake lines after one of the lines below the master cylinder rusted out. Will be doing this procedure later today. This video earned my subscription. Thanks.
Ok guys, I did this in a 2007 Chevy Silverado 2wd LT. I just drove it around the yard and field next door and shoved the gas pedal in several times. Took between 5 to 10 minutes to make the pedal have some resistance. Fluid came out of bleeder as normal! I couldn't believe it actually worked! Good luck, folks!
I wonder id on mine my abs module needs replacing n i have same breaks as u are stating here n ive bleednit fifty times even took it to gmc the guys says. They wnated 500 to find a vac leak that's causing my breaks to not burp or beed right he says it's not that it's air in the lines. Lmao 8 months n ive had no truck cux I'm the last to be fixed keep in mind I bought this from him n its needed everything
I just repaired one of my brake lines going from the master cylinder to the ABS module on a 2001 Silverado. I just cracked the fitting loose at the ABS module and did a bleed from that point. Worked perfect! No need to bleed the brakes at the calipers!
Found your video today while bleeding my Acura TL. Front Driver caliper wouldn't bleed. Drove that sucker to an open field did about 30-40mph slammed on breaks. Said a little prayer. And just like you said it worked!! TY so much!
Thanks for the money saving advice! I used the 2nd method on my son's car hoping to prevent going to a brake shop. High risk, high reward! Thanks again!
I recently purchased a 2003 Blazer and the previous owner had replaced the calipers and rotors. I drove it for a couple months and had a brake line leak on the left rear. I replaced the line and couldn't get any fluid or air to bleed out. My guess was an air pocket in the ABS unit. The brake pedal is very spongy. Seeing your video gives me hope for the resolution. Thank you!
I used trick number 2 on my 2008 BMW E90, and it worked like a charm. I had to send the ABS unit to England for repair and I did not have an OBD2 scanner that could activate the ABS. This really works.
@@vishalontheline I replaced the ABS module and bled the brakes like normal. Then I took the E90 out to a sandlot and went crazy with it. I kept mashing the brakes over and over so the ABS module would activate over and over. Then I drove it home and bled the brakes again.
Bless you sir, 45 minutes after watching your video and a few skid marks in the local gravel patch later my wife’s van is back in commission after hours of head scratching.
I just did this to my 2013 Sierra 1500. It worked!!! I changed rear hubs, shoes, pistons and front rotors and pads. Bled the air, still spongey. I adjusted the shoes to react on the drum a little harder for easier braking. Took it to an industrial area, drove at speed, jumped on the brakes activating ABS about 10 times. I now have 1" of travel in the pedal!!! Solid AF brakes. Thankyou!!!
Thank you very much Daninator. Blew the rear line on my 99 Silverado and had to remove every line on the ABS to get to it. Replaced everything and got exactly the scenario in your vid. Followed your trick on driving and braking, (tearing up my country driveway, but having fun) and after about 4-5 runs of 6-7 acceleration/braking laps, I got it bled. I gotta say, the brakes feel the best since I bought it used 4 years ago and its over 300k miles~ Thanks again! You saved me a lot of expense and taught an old dog a new trick ......to pass on as you have~
This totally works, I spent a sleepless night before finding this clip. When I turn out of my driveway the main road is to the left, and to the right is half a mile of farm track, ideal for in line skidding. After doing intermittent hard braking to the farm and back I bled both front brakes and car was sorted. Thanks for the money saving tip, even works in the UK.
I found a scan tool that does abs and airbag stuff and it was only 200 something bucks! It runs the abs system in order to bleed these. It's been a life saver!! Great video
Just had a same problem on 02 Sierra 1500. Replaced all the lines but the air got stuck inside the abs unit. Method #3 ROCKS! Thank you A LOT for saving me a bunch! Liked and subscribed! Keep up the amazing work man!
My brakes completely locked up, making RPM's scream and transmission not work, while on a cross country road trip, alone. They would release after sitting and cooling a while, then lock up again. Been working on vehicles my whole life and refuse to take to a shop. Little did I know that my stubbornness would lead me to being broke down on the side of the Arizona road for 2 weeks. Started checking fuses, then wheel speed sensors. Tested abs control module by unplugging it, still locked up. Called a brake shop that said it's the master cylinder. Changed it out. Did a bench bleed on my tailgate, that was fun! Along with bleeding brakes by myself... figuring it all out as I go. I was ready to push it if the edge of the grand canyon if this didn't work. It worked for about 300 miles and starred locking up again. I would pull over and crack the lines on master and carry on my way till getting home. They finally got so bad all I could do is get 10 feet down the road. I then changed out the brake hoses. Bled and bled and bled again. No pedal whatsoever. Did a reset on the proportioning valve and still wouldn't bleed. I really don't want to change that! But at this point that's all that's left unless this trick works... any advice???
I had this same problem. Old brake fluid can boil so first change brake fluid out completely with new brake fluid. Second old rubber brake lines can break down internally so change those out with new lines. Third caliper pistons can sieze in there bore so check that they can be compressed with a large C-Clamp. Forth brake pads can seize up on there slides and pins so make sure there sliding freely (you can wire brush the brake pads slides and clean and regrease the caliper pins). Fiveth your caliper pistons can be seized so you can replace then with rebuilt or new units. I would start going down this list and your problem has to be one of these. Good luck
I need to just say you are a damn lifesaver. I work at a shop so me saying this is sad and embarrassing but I have been in a pinch with my secondary car which is a 2011 MKZ that I just had a driver front caliper put on. It gravity bled but as soon as I bled all the other three calipers it didn’t want to bring fluid out the driver front hose. Didn’t have a scan tool on hand so down a sketchy gravel road I went to activate abs about 3-6 times and as soon as I cracked open the banjo bolt to the caliper I got plenty of air and fluid behind it. Thanks again.
These comments are inspiring me to try this on my 05 cts. Very soft brake pedal for a while and after changing rotors and brakes they have gotten worse. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks
You are the man!!! I was having the exact same problem with my son's 07 Mazda 6. I used the manual method and had the same success you did. I would have never in a million years been able to do it without this video! Thank you!!!
I have same problem whit my bronco that caliper piston is stuck I replace brake pads and today I put new master cylinder and still nothing that front tires are hard to turn by hand and my bronco have those Abs module
@@Purozamachihue When you get back to it check to see if they can be compressed. You might have to open the bleeder when you do so. If you struggle with a C-clamp or econo-tool the calipers will need rebuilt or replaced. Be sure to treat the whole system as new, use fresh fluid, and flush until you see clear at each point. Fluid that's been exposed to air will absorb moisture and that is a prime cause of caliper failure. Good luck with that Bronco. 🙂
Bi-directional scan tools are awesome! I’m not familiar with the Zurich brand tools, but it looks similar to other modern scan tools I’ve played with. The one I have is an autel and does normally dealer level functions on everything I’ve run into working on my rigs over the past year or so I’ve had it. I like that they aren’t limited to one manufacturer and I’ve used it on my buddy’s rigs, (ford, Chevy, dodge, Toyota, VW, and Honda off the top of my head) and easily performed stuff like a fast learn on my Allison, programming injector flow rates (duramax) smart key programming (multiple vehicles) and a FICM flash on a 6.0 PSD. GM dealer wanted $200 for the fast learn alone. I did not spend the extra $100ish to get the wireless capability like the one in the video, but I wish I had. I’ll have to do some reading on the Zurich units. Anyone who does more than change oil and basic maintenance on obd2 vehicles could greatly increase their capabilities with a bi-directional scan tool. No-directional is the key though. Cheap scan tools (usually about $150 and less) are generally not more than code readers and I never saw the need to get one as autozone and similar stores will scan codes for free, as long as you can get the vehicle there. Bi-directional scan tools allow you to send commands to the vehicle’s computer and do things like temporarily shut down injectors and command certain functions for diagnostics that you would not normally be able to do and monitor the result. Yes, I know you can unplug injectors manually, but I’m just giving an example. You’ll have to do some research to ensure the scan tool will do the things you need, and read carefully as there is a lot of marketing wank in all of them. I contacted autel directly to ensure the $1100 tool would do a fast learn as it wasn’t clear, and even with the vin they didn’t seem positive they had one that was about $800 that did not according to my reading on forums and such. Expect to pay $800+ and the ones I looked at had a yearly subscription of $300+. Mine came with a year ‘free’, but the subscription is not required to use the tool beyond that year. It’s only necessary for vehicles and flash capabilities on vehicles newer than your current update. So keep that in mind. I avoided buying a bi-directional tool for years and intended to purchase a Chinese knockoff GM tech 2 that would only work on GM rigs of specific years as that’s most of what I work on in my spare time, and the T2 wouldn’t do what I need on the newer can bus GM trucks at that. Fortunately, two bad experiences with shady sellers led me to the Autel MS906 (I think) and it’s worked well on every vehicle I’ve used it on. I’m not paid or anything, so this isn’t an ad. There’s other brands I’m sure that would do everything I’ve needed, but I got a discount on the autel and am very happy with it. It seems there are a lot of people who don’t flush their brake fluid regularly, and a lot that do don’t usually activate the abs module to get the old hydroscopic fluid out of that unit which is important to do. I did it the same way Dan did for years though. I like squalling out the factory bleeders for speed bleeders as I’m normally working on stuff by myself and haven’t bought a power bleeder yet. Good video man, and good information. I found your channel while trying to explain this stuff to a buddy who’s not close enough for me to just do it and sent him this video.
There are now scan tools in the $ 700 to $ 800 range that do this . Think Tool , Top Don and X Tool D8 . There is also an X Tool that works with a phone or lap top for less , I believe the A30 Pro . These all are bi directional . Just research that it does all the tests on your vehicle and check how much updates cost . Scanner Danner recently had a 10% off code on one of these and a Toyota mechanic " The Car Care Nut " had 8% off on another .
Do research before rushing out for one of these tablet scanners. Some have to have software activated. This can cost as much as the unit and it is only good for 2 or 3 years. Then you have to buy it again, and again. Like a computer with microsoft software. You have to buy or lease it after paying for the computer itself.
I have done this on my hyundai tucson 2lt 2006 works 100% . Drove about held brakes a bit harsh about 6 times , it released immediately. Thanks brother you helped alot , gratefull .
You can buy many $100 bi directional scan tools now a days and activate the abs module. You can also turn the vehicle on and stomp on the brakes with the bleeder out and it will definitely come out. The vacuum assist brake booster helps alot.
Thanks for the video! I just bought a 99 v6 mustang with the brakes not working and the guy said it was the proportioning valve. I did some troubleshooting and found that the most likely cause was air in the abs module so I found your video and did what you suggested on my gravel driveway. Worked like a charm and now I just need to bleed all the brakes again.
Absolutely worked! Thankfully it snowed the night before so no problem activating the abs on the ice. Farted the bubbles out, bled lines, brakes are good to go. Thanks for the video!
Great tip . I recommend using a 6 point bleeder wrench or socket on the bleeders . Most 1/4" drive sockets work fine . I even wire brush the threads and add a thin film of Never Seize .
I'm having the same problem, but I only changed the calipers I never unhooked the abs. I took it out on a long deserted stretch of road and I hit the brakes firmly and it finally activated the abs. Then after 4-5 cycles it started to pump up a little. I bled the front brakes again and it is perfect now.
Thats how its done .i watched your video and was going to suggest this if you had a differnt method .ha good job dan you saved a bunch of people lots of money !
I have this issue right now with my rear brake had to take it off to repair and now i have very little trickling out i will try this tomorrow. Hopefully i can find a scan tool as well
Thanks bro ran into that for first time ever, am 59, & always done my own work on what ever needed to be done on my vehicles figered driving it would do the trick but wasn't sure ? Thanks again .
Yesterday I completed the Bleeding of all 4 wheels, and not all the wheels responded in the same way. It was easier to bleed the front brakes than the rear. The car was 2009 Nissan Sentra and the order of bleeding there is: RR, FL, RL, FR ( a different order than on most cars). All the brakes were bleeding, but the rear pushed the brake fluid so much harder, than the front. I thought it is some peculiarity of the car or work of the brake system, and thought to do research in the future on that phenomena I observed yesterday. But today fortunately I came across this film, and now think maybe there is some problem w/Master Cylinder or ABS of that car. It was rather hard to pump RR, much easier FL, very hard RL (though I pumped the fluid into the hose like for 12"), and very-very easy to pump FR. Till the extend that I thought if to flush the whole system well (like 2-3 bottles) you are supposed to use just Front Brakes, bcs if you pump the Rear, it will take forever to pump those 2 bottles. The brakes were very firm though. Thank you for the informative film.
Well this might work with the one I'm trying to fix. 03 zr2 no brake pedal. Changed everything that can be changed with new. Booster,calipers, master cylinder, abs, bled with a air bleeder tool still no brakes goes to the floor. Wonder if that would work with the vehicle up on jack stans.
Thanks for the info....Doing a rear Brake Conversion (Drum to Rear Disc) and could not bleed the brakes...Luckily the truck was already on the lift at the shop so I'll use the "Scan tool" option to release the air from the ABS pump..!..(Thanks for the shared knowledge..!!!!
Yeah man, looks like activating the abs did the trick, got a couple of good sharts out of the brake line, pedal feels much better now. We have some snowy streets right now so timing was good. Thx
I recently had to replace the primary 1/4 in. Line on my 03' Tahoe,was able to get fluid freely to the rear and to the RS front but the driver side is a no-show! I'm going to see if I can get that ABS module to activate using your "Field tested" method... I'll throw up another comment on the verdict... I've been scratching my head, thanks for the idea!💡
I got my trucks cab changed because the old one was rusty. Since I got it back the brakes feel quite spongy. Today I made already a brake bleeder that works with compressed air. I will follow procedure #2 and bleed it as often as it feels right.
I noticed when one of my ABS wheel sensors on my 2001 Silverado was bad, the ABS would activate every time at around 7 MPH when coming to a stop, so unplugging the wheel sensor should accomplish this also. It would be more controlled than skidding the vehicle. Thanks for the video!
Excellent video mate, very easy to follow and you explained it well, it’s exactly what am needing to do on my Audi A4 TDi tecknik I took the calliper off to rebuild it (sticky piston) but my wee seal on the pipe leaked and all the fluid drained from the car so I tried normal bleeding to no luck but after reading and this video it should be sorted! That’s after I went and replaced the master cylinder thinking I’d turned the seals when bleeding it! Nightmare of a car! Never again will I get a car that needs a bastard computer to bleed the brakes!!
Foxwell sells a scan tool that sucks, for around $150, but it will activate the abs module for bleeding brakes, you can hear pump run which is what you want to happen, but after that it gives you a message that it can't communicate with vehicle, as far as I am concerned it already did, my module was activated, which was what I wanted to happen
Well I am going to try it on a 2004 Maserati Coupe with Brembo Brakes. The calipers have 2 bleed nipples and I have read about how to bleed them. Inside bleeder first and then outside, but I can't get a strong stream at any wheel. There was air in the line previously as I had to pump them to get a decent pedal. Since I am relatively sure my bleeding hasn't accomplishes much I need to try this. It makes sense. Thanks for the video and I will report back.
2nd option..Worked on a early model ford ranger. Did it on gravel about 9 times. My problem was passenger rear line had no fluid running through it. Could bleed all except for it. After the abs physical reset. Fluid comes out. 👍 I appreciate it! Now time to find out if the abs is going to go off or will I have to get the code n troubleshoot.
Just took on the dreaded brake line job on my 2004 Yukon. The passenger side line from the caliper to the ABS block rusted and blew. I ordered the Dorman kit and did them all. Three years ago, I did the two for the rear from the ABS block to the rear axle. So I have had to flush and bleed the hell out of the brake system twice. You don’t need a scan tool or to risk driving around with no brakes while trying to burp the ABS module. What you need to do is turn the ignition key to the ON position while bleeding. This keeps the ABS module valves open to let fluid, and air pass through. You will have to allow time and patience for this because it will take a while to bleed but you will get a solid brake pedal when done. I usually have someone working the pedal while I open and close the bleeder while they push and release the pedal. I also run a hose from the bleeder to a cup of fluid and have the person repeatedly pump the pedal with the bleeder open. Last, I run the engine and bleed each wheel again. Solid pedal every time, no scan tool or risky driving needed. Edit- I am not trying to take away from the video at all. Those methods work. Scan tools are very useful and it is convenient to command the ABS to engage while sitting still to bleed brakes. I had a Crown Vic give me a fit once while bleeding so I drove it with a limp pedal to try an activate the ABS and it helped. I learned the key on while bleeding trick a while ago and it has worked for me.
This was EXACTLY the problem with my '99 Suburban. Paid to have it bleed once, worked great right after but it came back (mushy pedal). So annoying! I hope this takes care of it for you for good. I sold my truck and bought a 2014 Silverado. No issues, yet.
Same problem with 2011 impala. The brake lines from the master cylinder go up and then down to the abs. Could not get the air out of that loop. I did it on jackstands. Went 20-30 mph and hammered the brakes for about 5 minutes. Thanks
Great video. Vacuum bleeding with a hand pump is good but you gotta climb under and bleed brakes at different intervals to work out trapped air..and these chevy can hold a "lot of air". The last method you showed really forces air to the correct chamber in the calipers so it can be bled right, and much faster....great video
this is a great video, I had added speed bleeders and i was about to remove them but I will now use this $129 ABS tool I bought last week, hopefully that will fix my problem
I have a 2006 Hyundai Elantra the rear left brake caliper has no pressure when bleeding. I've done an ABS bleed master cylinder bleed and blee all the wheels. But very little fluid comes out from the rear left wheel. What should i look at? I've already replaced the master cylinder too.
The caliper does not apply and release.there are isolation valves in the valve body that will isolate the wheel or wheels that are locking up from the rest of system.the motor on abs module has a cam on end of it and there are 2 chambers that have spring loaded plungers that get cycled very fast to take the fluid away from the wheel that wants to lock up.
I've got a 2000 1500 Silverado and noticed my brakes poor performance prior to this incident. I had to slam on the brakes to avoid a accident. My brake pedal now goes to the floor and seem spongy. I do not have any leaks in the lines. I assumed that the condition of the brake fluid was maybe my problem by pulling moisture and air into the system. So I removed all fluid from the master cylinder and bled lines to remove all the old dirty fluid. I did notice my front pads were thin so I replaced front pads and rotors. I cannot get any air from any lines what so ever. I removed master cylinder thinking that was faulty or had air in it. That checks out ok. Boy i sure hope this does the trick! I'm at wits end to say the least and have spent all weekend on trying to get the brake pedal from going all the way to the floor..... Ugh... I'll try this on my next day off and hope it takes care of my sponge pedal... Thanks for posting this!
@@Claasic my condition has improved alot. I took the truck out and found the smoothest tracks that I could find and going over them at 30 miles an hour or so I hit the brakes and activate the anti-lock system. I did this for to five times. Actually that improved the pedal issue that I was having but I can tell that they are still spongy and that I still have air in them. At least now it's not going all the way to the floor like it was. I need to bleed them out again to see if I can get any air out of them now. But I would suggest taking the truck out and activating the anti-lock system hopefully that will help like it did mine. Let me know
@@danknitz9679 thank you, I actually found today that my calipers were installed incorrectly with the bleeder valve at the bottom. I’m gonna fix them and try this to see if I can get my pedal to stop going all the way in by bleeding and trying the trick out
I work on all my own stuff and usually on limited funds. So my 96 Dodge Ram1500 has this same problem with the brakes system. So I'm going to try this out thanks for the video good info for do it yourself guys like me.
have same problem on my car. nothing comes out from left rear brake, cracked open the line from abs module to the left rear, only small amount of fluid comes out. how do i know if the solenoid gets clogged?
Great video! I'm surprised that you don't need the bleeder on the caliper at least cracked open while you are actuating the ABS...how does the air move from the ABS into the line and closer to the bleeder otherwise?
Daninator. Symptoms sound like mine. 2001 Solara. Had a bad master bypass and a brake booster leak. Replaced both and bench bleed new master. Very little fluid at all 4 Calipers. Can this be done on secure Jack stands with tires off...? And can brake clean or some other cleaner be used to flush this system first. 40 years doing brakes and NEVER experienced this symptom. Poorly treated car when I bought it and fluid is black. Fear a blockage in abs module and junction blocks. What is safe to clean out system
@@kierancampbell5090 this can be done on jack stands if set up safely. I don’t know about using brake cleaner. I’ve never done that. I don’t know if that’s a good idea. The soft rubber brake lines at the wheels can swell and pinch off the passage ways. May need to check those.
@@TheDaninator I disconnected the metal line from the top of the rubber brake hose at RR. Very little fluid. But did drip. Not flow. None of the 4 new calipers flow under any pressure. They drip. Fronts are are no better than rear for pressure. Pedal still weak??? I guess a master can be bad right out of the box but I just doubt it.when I bench bleed I had to use those plastic bleeder 🎉 kits with plastic nuts and Teflon tape with Clear plastic lines. Could not fill the lines with all fluid. Still had air bubbles that would not move to the master reservoir.??? Update. Found a 6 way valve on firewall. Has the abs lines to it then branch out to all 4 calipers. Look like it came from WW 2. I ll try and open them and see if fluid runs strong with out valve use and then if I have good flow replace multi valve and try again.
11/3/24 8 am Flushed all lines with kerosene. Lots of shit exited. Replace rubber line as they are OE. Will now use pressure bleeder. Trying anything, very strange disfunction
2003 Chev Avalanche I undid All body mounts and lifted the Drivers side 6 inches and replace all 7 factory GM steel lines... for HOURS I tried everything to bleed Brake system... Truck was Mostly Running on 4 Jack stands all 4 tires removed would NOT BLEED fully.... Then this worked Turn Key ON and DISCONNECT BATTERY leave sit for an Hour Then Pump and Bleed Brakes with Truck NOT Running and Battery Disconnected Tons more Air came out of the ABS system...
Thanks for the video. My question is when flushing the brake fluid from my friends car I cannot get fluid to come out of any of the 4 wheels, if it was only one wheel that wasn’t bleeding I know that it would be likely a bad caliper but on all four wheels, could it be the abs unit that giving problems or master brake cyclinder. Thanks
Thank You, do you need to pump and hold the bakes when you blead it or can you just put the ignition on and blead the brakes on a car with an ABS module
That should work as well, but obviously there's risk involved being up on jack stands. It's up to you. Personally, I like having all the wheels on the ground and just slamming on the brakes, but I understand that option may not be available to all DIYers.
another alternative to the expensive tool can be a cheaper tool (elm 327) but there can be compatibility issues, and finding the correct software can be quiet difficult, definitely worth researching first, they can be as cheap as $20 or cheaper, and the software can be in that range or free or much more expensive it all depends
I think this is exactly my problem on my 99 K2500 suburban. I get the ABS light intermittently coming on and a spongy pedal. Going to try method #2 and see if this works. After that a full flush of all brake lines (nasty) and then it should be good! Will let you know!
Stupid question. Can you put the vehicle on jack stand and remove wheels and gas it then slam on breaks and get same effect? I replaced all brake lines and have no resistance when pumping brakes. So im assuming air pocket in abs due to i replaced all brake lines on truck.
I just had to drop 880(2weeks pay)on fixing abs issue. Threw codes for bad pump shorts and some other module code (ive forgotten now). Managed to secure a used unit from the scrap yard, salvage enough hardware between the old n used units, reflowed the module solder, sealed, swapped pumps, did a bunch of line repairs/splices (most of this in the freezing rain), and despite bleeding, then country boy bleeding the abs couldnt get it working right (and no my master cylinder never ran dry, i plugged the lines). Due to not having more time (and ot being my sole vehicle) had to take to mechanic......a dealership no less. Because none of the shop mechanics had the software to reprogram a new module....however at least its done now.....
I prefer method number two, because my wallet can handle that!
hell yes thank you for the great info I will always do this now and teach others your awesome!!!....I used it on a BMW
Roughly how fast was the truck going for you to get the abs to active?
@John P only 20 mph for me on a dirt road a mile and a half away. I activated the anti-lock system several times, parked it and waited till yesterday so my Son could be the break man for me. I bled all 4 wheel brake cylinders into a clean glass jar bleeder I made so I could collect the fluid for recycling and reduce cleanup. I bled them until all air and dirty fluid was remove and I got clean fluid in the jar. The difference was amazing. Obviously the Chevy Dealer tech that replaced all my brake lines for me didn’t “burp” the anti-lock brake pump as I had spongy brakes until yesterday. Now I have a full pedal and effortless braking.
@TheDaninator the second free method worked perfectly for me. Thanks for this video.
@@frankrightbrain nice!!
you earned my subscription with this video. I've been dealing with soft spongy brakes for over a year now and after replacing my brake master cylinder 4 times , booster twice, ABS once did i still have improvement but still wasn't a normal braking. You saved me the cost of taking my car to shop tomorrow to have system flushed.. thank you for your video confirming what i suspected about the ABS needing to burped out...
Thank you so very much. You just saved me. Had to change the exact same line on the exact same truck and had the same problem. After activation of ABS about 4 times, the front passenger bled so well that it squirted me in the eye. The other eye clearly saw victory!!!! Very informative video.
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I’ve had this issue since paying our local Chevy Dealer $1,300 to replace all brake lines after one of the lines below the master cylinder rusted out. Will be doing this procedure later today. This video earned my subscription. Thanks.
Ok guys, I did this in a 2007 Chevy Silverado 2wd LT. I just drove it around the yard and field next door and shoved the gas pedal in several times. Took between 5 to 10 minutes to make the pedal have some resistance. Fluid came out of bleeder as normal! I couldn't believe it actually worked! Good luck, folks!
I wonder id on mine my abs module needs replacing n i have same breaks as u are stating here n ive bleednit fifty times even took it to gmc the guys says. They wnated 500 to find a vac leak that's causing my breaks to not burp or beed right he says it's not that it's air in the lines. Lmao 8 months n ive had no truck cux I'm the last to be fixed keep in mind I bought this from him n its needed everything
I just repaired one of my brake lines going from the master cylinder to the ABS module on a 2001 Silverado. I just cracked the fitting loose at the ABS module and did a bleed from that point. Worked perfect! No need to bleed the brakes at the calipers!
That works! Excellent tip!
Found your video today while bleeding my Acura TL. Front Driver caliper wouldn't bleed. Drove that sucker to an open field did about 30-40mph slammed on breaks. Said a little prayer. And just like you said it worked!! TY so much!
Thanks for the money saving advice! I used the 2nd method on my son's car hoping to prevent going to a brake shop. High risk, high reward! Thanks again!
I recently purchased a 2003 Blazer and the previous owner had replaced the calipers and rotors. I drove it for a couple months and had a brake line leak on the left rear. I replaced the line and couldn't get any fluid or air to bleed out. My guess was an air pocket in the ABS unit. The brake pedal is very spongy. Seeing your video gives me hope for the resolution. Thank you!
I used trick number 2 on my 2008 BMW E90, and it worked like a charm. I had to send the ABS unit to England for repair and I did not have an OBD2 scanner that could activate the ABS. This really works.
Did you loosen / tighten the lines on the ASC-T module or just bleed the brakes as you regularly would? Thanks!
@@vishalontheline I replaced the ABS module and bled the brakes like normal. Then I took the E90 out to a sandlot and went crazy with it. I kept mashing the brakes over and over so the ABS module would activate over and over. Then I drove it home and bled the brakes again.
@@warrenwarburtonesq.6884 Thank you!
This video saved me a ton of money, I was told that the whole abs system needed replaced. Thank you Daninator!
Bless you sir, 45 minutes after watching your video and a few skid marks in the local gravel patch later my wife’s van is back in commission after hours of head scratching.
I just did this to my 2013 Sierra 1500. It worked!!! I changed rear hubs, shoes, pistons and front rotors and pads. Bled the air, still spongey. I adjusted the shoes to react on the drum a little harder for easier braking. Took it to an industrial area, drove at speed, jumped on the brakes activating ABS about 10 times. I now have 1" of travel in the pedal!!! Solid AF brakes. Thankyou!!!
Well done!!
In your opinion, do i need to bleed the brakes again?
@@gocro731 yes, it wouldn’t hurt to bleed em again
Thank you very much Daninator. Blew the rear line on my 99 Silverado and had to remove every line on the ABS to get to it. Replaced everything and got exactly the scenario in your vid. Followed your trick on driving and braking, (tearing up my country driveway, but having fun) and after about 4-5 runs of 6-7 acceleration/braking laps, I got it bled. I gotta say, the brakes feel the best since I bought it used 4 years ago and its over 300k miles~
Thanks again! You saved me a lot of expense and taught an old dog a new trick ......to pass on as you have~
Excellent video. I couldn’t figure out why my back brakes wouldn’t bleed. I found this video and solved the problem. Thank you.
This totally works, I spent a sleepless night before finding this clip. When I turn out of my driveway the main road is to the left, and to the right is half a mile of farm track, ideal for in line skidding. After doing intermittent hard braking to the farm and back I bled both front brakes and car was sorted. Thanks for the money saving tip, even works in the UK.
I found a scan tool that does abs and airbag stuff and it was only 200 something bucks! It runs the abs system in order to bleed these. It's been a life saver!! Great video
Whats it called?
Hello SIR what is the maker name of this 200&some dollars scantool that runs the abs system in order to bleed these breake fluid Lines??
Just had a same problem on 02 Sierra 1500. Replaced all the lines but the air got stuck inside the abs unit. Method #3 ROCKS! Thank you A LOT for saving me a bunch! Liked and subscribed! Keep up the amazing work man!
My brakes completely locked up, making RPM's scream and transmission not work, while on a cross country road trip, alone. They would release after sitting and cooling a while, then lock up again. Been working on vehicles my whole life and refuse to take to a shop. Little did I know that my stubbornness would lead me to being broke down on the side of the Arizona road for 2 weeks. Started checking fuses, then wheel speed sensors. Tested abs control module by unplugging it, still locked up. Called a brake shop that said it's the master cylinder. Changed it out. Did a bench bleed on my tailgate, that was fun! Along with bleeding brakes by myself... figuring it all out as I go. I was ready to push it if the edge of the grand canyon if this didn't work. It worked for about 300 miles and starred locking up again. I would pull over and crack the lines on master and carry on my way till getting home. They finally got so bad all I could do is get 10 feet down the road. I then changed out the brake hoses. Bled and bled and bled again. No pedal whatsoever. Did a reset on the proportioning valve and still wouldn't bleed. I really don't want to change that! But at this point that's all that's left unless this trick works... any advice???
I had this same problem. Old brake fluid can boil so first change brake fluid out completely with new brake fluid. Second old rubber brake lines can break down internally so change those out with new lines. Third caliper pistons can sieze in there bore so check that they can be compressed with a large C-Clamp. Forth brake pads can seize up on there slides and pins so make sure there sliding freely (you can wire brush the brake pads slides and clean and regrease the caliper pins). Fiveth your caliper pistons can be seized so you can replace then with rebuilt or new units. I would start going down this list and your problem has to be one of these. Good luck
I need to just say you are a damn lifesaver. I work at a shop so me saying this is sad and embarrassing but I have been in a pinch with my secondary car which is a 2011 MKZ that I just had a driver front caliper put on. It gravity bled but as soon as I bled all the other three calipers it didn’t want to bring fluid out the driver front hose. Didn’t have a scan tool on hand so down a sketchy gravel road I went to activate abs about 3-6 times and as soon as I cracked open the banjo bolt to the caliper I got plenty of air and fluid behind it. Thanks again.
Watch a lot of videos before and I don’t remember make it comment. Really appreciate your video. Save me a lot of money
These comments are inspiring me to try this on my 05 cts. Very soft brake pedal for a while and after changing rotors and brakes they have gotten worse. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks
You are the man!!! I was having the exact same problem with my son's 07 Mazda 6. I used the manual method and had the same success you did. I would have never in a million years been able to do it without this video! Thank you!!!
I have same problem whit my bronco that caliper piston is stuck I replace brake pads and today I put new master cylinder and still nothing that front tires are hard to turn by hand and my bronco have those Abs module
@@Purozamachihue 'Hard to turn' often means a stuck caliper that's due to be replaced. Hope you're ok by now..
@@johncmitchell4941 I haven’t done nothing yeat but I’m perty shure are that calipers
@@Purozamachihue When you get back to it check to see if they can be compressed. You might have to open the bleeder when you do so. If you struggle with a C-clamp or econo-tool the calipers will need rebuilt or replaced. Be sure to treat the whole system as new, use fresh fluid, and flush until you see clear at each point. Fluid that's been exposed to air will absorb moisture and that is a prime cause of caliper failure. Good luck with that Bronco. 🙂
@@johncmitchell4941 oh ok thank u for that I dint know that and I will do all that I preciated
Bi-directional scan tools are awesome! I’m not familiar with the Zurich brand tools, but it looks similar to other modern scan tools I’ve played with. The one I have is an autel and does normally dealer level functions on everything I’ve run into working on my rigs over the past year or so I’ve had it. I like that they aren’t limited to one manufacturer and I’ve used it on my buddy’s rigs, (ford, Chevy, dodge, Toyota, VW, and Honda off the top of my head) and easily performed stuff like a fast learn on my Allison, programming injector flow rates (duramax) smart key programming (multiple vehicles) and a FICM flash on a 6.0 PSD. GM dealer wanted $200 for the fast learn alone. I did not spend the extra $100ish to get the wireless capability like the one in the video, but I wish I had. I’ll have to do some reading on the Zurich units. Anyone who does more than change oil and basic maintenance on obd2 vehicles could greatly increase their capabilities with a bi-directional scan tool. No-directional is the key though. Cheap scan tools (usually about $150 and less) are generally not more than code readers and I never saw the need to get one as autozone and similar stores will scan codes for free, as long as you can get the vehicle there. Bi-directional scan tools allow you to send commands to the vehicle’s computer and do things like temporarily shut down injectors and command certain functions for diagnostics that you would not normally be able to do and monitor the result. Yes, I know you can unplug injectors manually, but I’m just giving an example. You’ll have to do some research to ensure the scan tool will do the things you need, and read carefully as there is a lot of marketing wank in all of them. I contacted autel directly to ensure the $1100 tool would do a fast learn as it wasn’t clear, and even with the vin they didn’t seem positive they had one that was about $800 that did not according to my reading on forums and such. Expect to pay $800+ and the ones I looked at had a yearly subscription of $300+. Mine came with a year ‘free’, but the subscription is not required to use the tool beyond that year. It’s only necessary for vehicles and flash capabilities on vehicles newer than your current update. So keep that in mind. I avoided buying a bi-directional tool for years and intended to purchase a Chinese knockoff GM tech 2 that would only work on GM rigs of specific years as that’s most of what I work on in my spare time, and the T2 wouldn’t do what I need on the newer can bus GM trucks at that. Fortunately, two bad experiences with shady sellers led me to the Autel MS906 (I think) and it’s worked well on every vehicle I’ve used it on. I’m not paid or anything, so this isn’t an ad. There’s other brands I’m sure that would do everything I’ve needed, but I got a discount on the autel and am very happy with it. It seems there are a lot of people who don’t flush their brake fluid regularly, and a lot that do don’t usually activate the abs module to get the old hydroscopic fluid out of that unit which is important to do. I did it the same way Dan did for years though. I like squalling out the factory bleeders for speed bleeders as I’m normally working on stuff by myself and haven’t bought a power bleeder yet. Good video man, and good information. I found your channel while trying to explain this stuff to a buddy who’s not close enough for me to just do it and sent him this video.
There are now scan tools in the $ 700 to $ 800 range that do this . Think Tool , Top Don and X Tool D8 . There is also an X Tool that works with a phone or lap top for less , I believe the A30 Pro . These all are bi directional . Just research that it does all the tests on your vehicle and check how much updates cost . Scanner Danner recently had a 10% off code on one of these and a Toyota mechanic " The Car Care Nut " had 8% off on another .
Do research before rushing out for one of these tablet scanners. Some have to have software activated. This can cost as much as the unit and it is only good for 2 or 3 years. Then you have to buy it again, and again. Like a computer with microsoft software. You have to buy or lease it after paying for the computer itself.
I have done this on my hyundai tucson 2lt 2006 works 100% . Drove about held brakes a bit harsh about 6 times , it released immediately. Thanks brother you helped alot , gratefull .
You can buy many $100 bi directional scan tools now a days and activate the abs module. You can also turn the vehicle on and stomp on the brakes with the bleeder out and it will definitely come out. The vacuum assist brake booster helps alot.
Thanks for the video! I just bought a 99 v6 mustang with the brakes not working and the guy said it was the proportioning valve. I did some troubleshooting and found that the most likely cause was air in the abs module so I found your video and did what you suggested on my gravel driveway. Worked like a charm and now I just need to bleed all the brakes again.
This did the trick on my buddy's 2010 Malibu and saved us a bundle
Absolutely worked! Thankfully it snowed the night before so no problem activating the abs on the ice. Farted the bubbles out, bled lines, brakes are good to go.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the tip! I need to do this and the 'cheapest' scan tools are super expensive for such limited use.
Great tip . I recommend using a 6 point bleeder wrench or socket on the bleeders . Most 1/4" drive sockets work fine . I even wire brush the threads and add a thin film of Never Seize .
I'm having the same problem, but I only changed the calipers I never unhooked the abs. I took it out on a long deserted stretch of road and I hit the brakes firmly and it finally activated the abs. Then after 4-5 cycles it started to pump up a little. I bled the front brakes again and it is perfect now.
Thats how its done .i watched your video and was going to suggest this if you had a differnt method .ha
good job dan you saved a bunch of people lots of money !
I have this issue right now with my rear brake had to take it off to repair and now i have very little trickling out i will try this tomorrow. Hopefully i can find a scan tool as well
i'm lucky i have a pasture to haul ass around in to get the ABS to activate --> THIS METHOD WORKED PERFECTLY! THANK YOU!
Sweet!
Thanks bro ran into that for first time ever, am 59, & always done my own work on what ever needed to be done on my vehicles figered driving it would do the trick but wasn't sure ? Thanks again .
I had the same problem with air in the ABS. I did the drive and brake fix and it worked lol.
Have used method #2 on my '94 Chevy G20 van a couple times after replacing calipers once and master cylinder, brakes work good.
Yesterday I completed the Bleeding of all 4 wheels, and not all the wheels responded in the same way. It was easier to bleed the front brakes than the rear. The car was 2009 Nissan Sentra and the order of bleeding there is:
RR, FL, RL, FR ( a different order than on most cars). All the brakes were bleeding, but the rear pushed the brake fluid so much harder, than the front. I thought it is some peculiarity of the car or work of the brake system, and thought to do research in the future on that phenomena I observed yesterday. But today fortunately I came across this film, and now think maybe there is some problem w/Master Cylinder or ABS of that car. It was rather hard to pump RR, much easier FL, very hard RL (though I pumped the fluid into the hose like for 12"), and very-very easy to pump FR. Till the extend that I thought if to flush the whole system well (like 2-3 bottles) you are supposed to use just Front Brakes, bcs if you pump the Rear, it will take forever to pump those 2 bottles. The brakes were very firm though. Thank you for the informative film.
Great advice very helpful I have snap on scan tool and used the function and bleed the air out of the system.
I own 3 scan tools but I've always used method ,2 because it undoubtedly works
I used them slam on brakes poor man method. Worked like a charm. Thanks
You saved my brothers ass…… and mine because I am the one working on his shot box 😂 thanks man
Well this might work with the one I'm trying to fix. 03 zr2 no brake pedal. Changed everything that can be changed with new. Booster,calipers, master cylinder, abs, bled with a air bleeder tool still no brakes goes to the floor. Wonder if that would work with the vehicle up on jack stans.
Thanks for the info....Doing a rear Brake Conversion (Drum to Rear Disc) and could not bleed the brakes...Luckily the truck was already on the lift at the shop so I'll use the "Scan tool" option to release the air from the ABS pump..!..(Thanks for the shared knowledge..!!!!
Yeah man, looks like activating the abs did the trick, got a couple of good sharts out of the brake line, pedal feels much better now. We have some snowy streets right now so timing was good. Thx
I recently had to replace the primary 1/4 in. Line on my 03' Tahoe,was able to get fluid freely to the rear and to the RS front but the driver side is a no-show! I'm going to see if I can get that ABS module to activate using your "Field tested" method... I'll throw up another comment on the verdict... I've been scratching my head, thanks for the idea!💡
I got my trucks cab changed because the old one was rusty. Since I got it back the brakes feel quite spongy. Today I made already a brake bleeder that works with compressed air. I will follow procedure #2 and bleed it as often as it feels right.
Thank you for this invaluable information. I can't tell you how much I appreciate you sharing this information. God will richly bless you..
You very much welcome !
I noticed when one of my ABS wheel sensors on my 2001 Silverado was bad, the ABS would activate every time at around 7 MPH when coming to a stop, so unplugging the wheel sensor should accomplish this also. It would be more controlled than skidding the vehicle. Thanks for the video!
Silverrusto and fail blazer, love it !
😂
Now I need a name for my Envoy like that😂😂
Excellent video mate, very easy to follow and you explained it well, it’s exactly what am needing to do on my Audi A4 TDi tecknik I took the calliper off to rebuild it (sticky piston) but my wee seal on the pipe leaked and all the fluid drained from the car so I tried normal bleeding to no luck but after reading and this video it should be sorted! That’s after I went and replaced the master cylinder thinking I’d turned the seals when bleeding it! Nightmare of a car! Never again will I get a car that needs a bastard computer to bleed the brakes!!
Whole lotta it worked comments and its free...My man
Foxwell sells a scan tool that sucks, for around $150, but it will activate the abs module for bleeding brakes, you can hear pump run which is what you want to happen, but after that it gives you a message that it can't communicate with vehicle, as far as I am concerned it already did, my module was activated, which was what I wanted to happen
Well I am going to try it on a 2004 Maserati Coupe with Brembo Brakes. The calipers have 2 bleed nipples and I have read about how to bleed them. Inside bleeder first and then outside, but I can't get a strong stream at any wheel. There was air in the line previously as I had to pump them to get a decent
pedal. Since I am relatively sure my bleeding hasn't accomplishes much I need to try this. It makes sense. Thanks for the video and I will report back.
I air bleed my bakes with 20# of air pressure in to the master! Works great!
Please explain this method
There's a reference to Elf in this video, instant fave
2nd option..Worked on a early model ford ranger. Did it on gravel about 9 times. My problem was passenger rear line had no fluid running through it. Could bleed all except for it. After the abs physical reset. Fluid comes out. 👍 I appreciate it! Now time to find out if the abs is going to go off or will I have to get the code n troubleshoot.
You have the same truck I have n this is the same issue I'm having n it's running rough too
Literally the video I’ve been looking for! Seriously, thanks! Very informative 👍🏻
Just took on the dreaded brake line job on my 2004 Yukon. The passenger side line from the caliper to the ABS block rusted and blew. I ordered the Dorman kit and did them all. Three years ago, I did the two for the rear from the ABS block to the rear axle. So I have had to flush and bleed the hell out of the brake system twice.
You don’t need a scan tool or to risk driving around with no brakes while trying to burp the ABS module. What you need to do is turn the ignition key to the ON position while bleeding. This keeps the ABS module valves open to let fluid, and air pass through. You will have to allow time and patience for this because it will take a while to bleed but you will get a solid brake pedal when done. I usually have someone working the pedal while I open and close the bleeder while they push and release the pedal. I also run a hose from the bleeder to a cup of fluid and have the person repeatedly pump the pedal with the bleeder open. Last, I run the engine and bleed each wheel again. Solid pedal every time, no scan tool or risky driving needed.
Edit- I am not trying to take away from the video at all. Those methods work. Scan tools are very useful and it is convenient to command the ABS to engage while sitting still to bleed brakes. I had a Crown Vic give me a fit once while bleeding so I drove it with a limp pedal to try an activate the ABS and it helped. I learned the key on while bleeding trick a while ago and it has worked for me.
This is the most helpful comment ever in history. I owe you a beer sir thanks.
@@RedThePokemonGuy All good! I hope it helps you out.
Thanks wonderful information have a blessed day
This was EXACTLY the problem with my '99 Suburban. Paid to have it bleed once, worked great right after but it came back (mushy pedal). So annoying! I hope this takes care of it for you for good. I sold my truck and bought a 2014 Silverado. No issues, yet.
So far, so good!
@@TheDaninator Same problem here.Could a pressure bleeder bleed the abs modulator valve?
Same problem with 2011 impala. The brake lines from the master cylinder go up and then down to the abs. Could not get the air out of that loop. I did it on jackstands. Went 20-30 mph and hammered the brakes for about 5 minutes. Thanks
Very good DIY... well explained and good humor... Daninator!
Great video. Vacuum bleeding with a hand pump is good but you gotta climb under and bleed brakes at different intervals to work out trapped air..and these chevy can hold a "lot of air". The last method you showed really forces air to the correct chamber in the calipers so it can be bled right, and much faster....great video
this is a great video, I had added speed bleeders and i was about to remove them but I will now use this $129 ABS tool I bought last week, hopefully that will fix my problem
Great tutorial brother, God bless right back @ you
I have a 2006 Hyundai Elantra the rear left brake caliper has no pressure when bleeding. I've done an ABS bleed master cylinder bleed and blee all the wheels. But very little fluid comes out from the rear left wheel. What should i look at? I've already replaced the master cylinder too.
I'm having same problem wish I could go try this
Hoping this works on 98 Frontier tomorrow morning . Thanks
I wonder if this would work on a 2003 ford 150 . Just replaced a rear brake line and can’t get any fluid from rear bleader
Thank you for posting this valuable video. I am going to try this on my Mitsubishi.
The caliper does not apply and release.there are isolation valves in the valve body that will isolate the wheel or wheels that are locking up from the rest of system.the motor on abs module has a cam on end of it and there are 2 chambers that have spring loaded plungers that get cycled very fast to take the fluid away from the wheel that wants to lock up.
I've got a 2000 1500 Silverado and noticed my brakes poor performance prior to this incident. I had to slam on the brakes to avoid a accident. My brake pedal now goes to the floor and seem spongy. I do not have any leaks in the lines. I assumed that the condition of the brake fluid was maybe my problem by pulling moisture and air into the system. So I removed all fluid from the master cylinder and bled lines to remove all the old dirty fluid. I did notice my front pads were thin so I replaced front pads and rotors. I cannot get any air from any lines what so ever. I removed master cylinder thinking that was faulty or had air in it. That checks out ok. Boy i sure hope this does the trick! I'm at wits end to say the least and have spent all weekend on trying to get the brake pedal from going all the way to the floor..... Ugh... I'll try this on my next day off and hope it takes care of my sponge pedal... Thanks for posting this!
Any updates on your issue I’m currently the same
@@Claasic my condition has improved alot. I took the truck out and found the smoothest tracks that I could find and going over them at 30 miles an hour or so I hit the brakes and activate the anti-lock system. I did this for to five times. Actually that improved the pedal issue that I was having but I can tell that they are still spongy and that I still have air in them. At least now it's not going all the way to the floor like it was. I need to bleed them out again to see if I can get any air out of them now. But I would suggest taking the truck out and activating the anti-lock system hopefully that will help like it did mine. Let me know
@@danknitz9679 thank you, I actually found today that my calipers were installed incorrectly with the bleeder valve at the bottom. I’m gonna fix them and try this to see if I can get my pedal to stop going all the way in by bleeding and trying the trick out
Any improvement on your brake issue?
I work on all my own stuff and usually on limited funds. So my 96 Dodge Ram1500 has this same problem with the brakes system. So I'm going to try this out thanks for the video good info for do it yourself guys like me.
have same problem on my car. nothing comes out from left rear brake, cracked open the line from abs module to the left rear, only small amount of fluid comes out. how do i know if the solenoid gets clogged?
Great video! I'm surprised that you don't need the bleeder on the caliper at least cracked open while you are actuating the ABS...how does the air move from the ABS into the line and closer to the bleeder otherwise?
Daninator. Symptoms sound like mine. 2001 Solara. Had a bad master bypass and a brake booster leak. Replaced both and bench bleed new master. Very little fluid at all 4 Calipers. Can this be done on secure Jack stands with tires off...?
And can brake clean or some other cleaner be used to flush this system first. 40 years doing brakes and NEVER experienced this symptom. Poorly treated car when I bought it and fluid is black. Fear a blockage in abs module and junction blocks. What is safe to clean out system
@@kierancampbell5090 this can be done on jack stands if set up safely. I don’t know about using brake cleaner. I’ve never done that. I don’t know if that’s a good idea. The soft rubber brake lines at the wheels can swell and pinch off the passage ways. May need to check those.
@@TheDaninator I disconnected the metal line from the top of the rubber brake hose at RR. Very little fluid. But did drip. Not flow. None of the 4 new calipers flow under any pressure. They drip. Fronts are are no better than rear for pressure. Pedal still weak???
I guess a master can be bad right out of the box but I just doubt it.when I bench bleed I had to use those plastic bleeder 🎉 kits with plastic nuts and Teflon tape with
Clear plastic lines. Could not fill the lines with all fluid. Still had air bubbles that would not move to the master reservoir.???
Update. Found a 6 way valve on firewall. Has the abs lines to it then branch out to all 4 calipers. Look like it came from WW 2. I ll try and open them and see if fluid runs strong with out valve use and then if I have good flow replace multi valve and try again.
11/3/24 8 am
Flushed all lines with kerosene. Lots of shit exited. Replace rubber line as they are OE. Will now use pressure bleeder. Trying anything, very strange disfunction
2003 Chev Avalanche I undid All body mounts and lifted the Drivers side 6 inches and replace all 7 factory GM steel lines... for HOURS I tried everything to bleed Brake system... Truck was Mostly Running on 4 Jack stands all 4 tires removed would NOT BLEED fully.... Then this worked Turn Key ON and DISCONNECT BATTERY leave sit for an Hour Then Pump and Bleed Brakes with Truck NOT Running and Battery Disconnected Tons more Air came out of the ABS system...
Thanks for the video.
My question is when flushing the brake fluid from my friends car I cannot get fluid to come out of any of the 4 wheels, if it was only one wheel that wasn’t bleeding I know that it would be likely a bad caliper but on all four wheels, could it be the abs unit that giving problems or master brake cyclinder. Thanks
Thank You, do you need to pump and hold the bakes when you blead it or can you just put the ignition on and blead the brakes on a car with an ABS module
Hey thanks for the assistance, worked like a charm. I'll add it to my archives.
worked like a charm on my rear brakes. thank you for making this
Can't you just run 12 volts to the abs motor.
97 Chevy venture rear breaks won't bleed have no breaks
? If the truck is on jack stands will method number two work
That should work as well, but obviously there's risk involved being up on jack stands. It's up to you. Personally, I like having all the wheels on the ground and just slamming on the brakes, but I understand that option may not be available to all DIYers.
another alternative to the expensive tool can be a cheaper tool (elm 327) but there can be compatibility issues, and finding the correct software can be quiet difficult, definitely worth researching first, they can be as cheap as $20 or cheaper, and the software can be in that range or free or much more expensive it all depends
Most cars older then 2015ish usually have bleeder screws on abs it's the box after the master cylinder
Having the same issues only on the rear of my nissan frontier 2002. Get fluid from the front brakes but not the rear brakes
I think this is exactly my problem on my 99 K2500 suburban. I get the ABS light intermittently coming on and a spongy pedal. Going to try method #2 and see if this works. After that a full flush of all brake lines (nasty) and then it should be good! Will let you know!
Stupid question. Can you put the vehicle on jack stand and remove wheels and gas it then slam on breaks and get same effect? I replaced all brake lines and have no resistance when pumping brakes. So im assuming air pocket in abs due to i replaced all brake lines on truck.
did it work?
So all we need ro do is dlam it on a few times in a field nnkisten for the abs. No bleeding nothing? We have to rebleed passenger side correct
I just had to drop 880(2weeks pay)on fixing abs issue. Threw codes for bad pump shorts and some other module code (ive forgotten now). Managed to secure a used unit from the scrap yard, salvage enough hardware between the old n used units, reflowed the module solder, sealed, swapped pumps, did a bunch of line repairs/splices (most of this in the freezing rain), and despite bleeding, then country boy bleeding the abs couldnt get it working right (and no my master cylinder never ran dry, i plugged the lines). Due to not having more time (and ot being my sole vehicle) had to take to mechanic......a dealership no less. Because none of the shop mechanics had the software to reprogram a new module....however at least its done now.....
Dear god thank you for this, had issues for a year now
Would this work on an OBD1 rig?? I've got a 95 F250 with next to no pedal even after bleeding a ton. I like the 2nd method though alot🙂
It was a great lesson. Thank you!
Question, I have a 07 Yukon Denali the rear brakes won’t bleed is this the same issue?
We have a 1971 C10 pickup. The front brakes will not bleed. The back did just fine. Any idea?
@@CM-jk5tf the flexible rubber brake lines may be swelled up if they are very old
To add some value to this, ensure you get every wheel to lock up at some point, to ensure all ABS valves are cycled 😎
Have a 05 2500Hd with this problem! Gonna try the slide method because Im not gonna spend 1200.00 on a machine for one time use.