I suspected the master cylinder until I found one line leak. I had viewed many videos in the last two weeks. Your was the first to say how to test master cylinder in place with two plugs! Thank you for teaching!!!
Glen, I hate to admit to ignorance of this as I pulled wrenches for many years and that was new to me!! Thanks for sharing that as I learned something new....
Trust, there's mechanics out here for 40+ and still learning something new. Tricks of the trade didn't come from a mechanic book or school. Technique comes from the brain, knowledge is power. This a good guy right here.
This is probably the 8th to 10th ABS troubleshooting video I've watched in the last couple of hours, and yet it is the only one that actually showed how to diagnose the ABS Pump itself. Some people jumped to re-soldering joints in the ABS Module and they didn't even mention to try this first. Once you have eliminated; leaks (at each wheel, all the lines, master cyl, brake booster), blown fuses and relays, wiring/connectors/grounds, this should be the next thing to look at.
I have been fighting a slight brake pedal sink for about 5 years. After a ton of break fluid, 2 master cylinders, several trips to the break shop, all I can say is ..... Thank You! My issue is very minimal, and is intermittent. 1 pump of the brakes, and the pedal wont sink, but sometimes the pedal will sink after I've come to a complete stop. A quick pump of the pedal and its solid again. NOW, I know what to do to fix it. You're awesome.
Still 1000% USEFUL in Jan 2025; TANK YOU; i thought THAT was the only possibility in my 1994 Isuzu Trooper 3.1 TD after bleeding and bleeding and even opening the Master Cylinder and seeing it was still perfect ( then i used 2 brass M10x1mm plugs with aluminum washers on the MC,and it also proved a good-pedal,it did not move at all); i am sure now that one of the exhaust valves inside the ABS modulator is leaking, all 4 brake calipers are good, pads good, no play in wheel bearings, no leaks.I removed the ABS modulator, dismantled it but the (HUGE!!) valves are factory staked shut, cannot be opened to clean; i went into a dirt road and exercised the ABS, improved very slightly, thinking what to do next, new one is beyond reach, used ones are a gamble,they are also 30 years old...... i wish they made those ABS valves in a way that they could be opened for checking and cleaning.
@josepeixoto3384 unfortunately as you have discovered parts are scarce and unserviceable. I'm sure by now you have realized what the solution is. I haven't seen a 90's Isuzu vehicle in at least 15-20 years. They all rust away around here in Delaware. Where are you located?
That's a stuck open de-pressurisation ('dump') valve in the ABS module... The hole is just a hole on the dry side of the accumulator piston. What's happening here is when the brake pedal is depressed, it's routing master cylinder line pressure straight through the open valve into the sprung accumulator (the 'spring' sound you hear when the piston is pushing the piece if wire out...) Normally this valve only opens as the second stage of ABS intervention after the isolation valve closes first, in order to reduce pressure in the caliper and allow the wheel to rotate again. But in this case it's always open, so master cylinder pressure is just going to move an accumulator piston instead of the pistons in the caliper... I had this same issue on a Nissan GTR on track.
@@ozzstars_cars No problem! The other symptoms I had, which helped give clues on the GTR, was that the brake pedal would get firmer when you drove the car hard and got it to slide on track in the wet, with the stability control still on! This was really confusing, but again what was happening here was the stability control applying assymetric rear brake in the corner, via the ABS motor pump. This is a bit like pumping the brake pedal with your foot, taking up some of the movement in the accumulator and giving a shorter pedal stroke. But the pressure soon bleeds off... Slow down again and the pedal went to the floor again! Only resolved by replacing the module.
@@ozzstars_cars That’s really interesting, sounds right! The ECU software I have for my Nissan doesn’t allow testing individual valves unfortunately, but it runs a complete valve calibration, and it failed on the rear circuit. Funnily enough I had massive problems with overheating front brakes, but the rear pads barely wearing at all…
This is a description on function I was looking for. Now can I rig it? Or just get the valve/pump body? I felt this on my 250 the first time the other day under hard braking with my 7000 lb trailer behind it. I didn't have the warm a fuzzies about it and now I'm here. 😂
I have been rebuilding my 2001 f150 for a while now cleaning the whole thing up and this is the biggest problem that I have had and I think you just rectify that for me God bless you and thank you so much
Thanks for another precise explanation of system operation and diagnosis. You do a great job getting your point across with the video. The folks in your area are fortunate to have a good technician like you 👍
Your conclusion appears to be that fluid is leaking into the piston that is effectively a pressure blow-off accumulator. Therefore a valve is not closing completely. Is there a way to nondestructively remove clean/replace the valve?
@@ozzstars_cars Yes. If the valve can be serviced, then no need to replace anything but the valve. It looks like they are press fit, which means some sort of removal and then re-pressing would be required. Removal appears certain to be destructive. And there's a seat that the valve tip contacts. So seat removal also might be necessary. It may be a 5 minute job, but it will take the usual 1000 hours to figure it out the first time, make the necessary pressing tool, etc. It's also possible that a solenoid is not passing current, so the valve is not being held closed. But regardless, that initial time investment may be big.
I drove my wife's Kia Sorento after she returned from a trip out of town, and I noticed the brake pedal seemed to have a lot of travel and would sink to the floor if held. I saw somewhere to check master cylinder versus ABS module problem, to drive on a dirt road about 20 MPH and lock up the brakes a few times. If the problem goes away--at least temporarily--the problem is in the ABS module. I tried it and sure enough, the problem went away for about three weeks before returning. Each time I did the locked- brakes thing, the problem stopped, but for shorter and shorter periods. Eventually I got an ABS warning light. The ABS module was $1300 plus labor, so I traded the POS in. KIA mechanics, as I found out over several trips for repairs, are not the upper end of skilled mechanics.
the new Master cyl seals worked great but with the engine running the pedal still goes to the floor . A Foxwell NT 630 pro ABS bleed scan tool bleed has improved things but the brakes are still acting up . I need to go find a dirt road and have a play .. maybe the ABS unit just needs a good workout .
coming back for a second look .. My Citroen C5 pedal to the floor was worn out master cylinder seals .. €6 euros for a service kit and a lot of my time and I now have a like new brake pedal feel .
Thank you. I have been fighting with my 2012 Lincoln Mkz for about 4 months now. I couldn't get any fluids to come out of the brake calipers. Hopefully this method help me diagnose my problem. Great job explaining this 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks , ur video goes into my '97 E350 rebuild library . Saved me Hours of 2nd guessing myself & my work especially with the camera work on coat hanger
@daduze, i also have a 2005 w/ this problem. The trk is currently at the mechanic shop for changing out the shift lever cable. I asked the manager to check the brakes - explained the issue and he stated to fix the 'floating brake pedal' would be around $1800....I asked him if the issue would continue to degenerate... he told me it wouldn't - i felt like he didn't want to deal with it....prob. go somewhere else after the shift lever cable is repaired ~ thanks for the vid!!!
Was not aware of this trick! Have seen this happen twice before and basically ruled it out by process of elimination and only the ABS module could be the cause but I never knew of a way to test it directly.
The untold Ford ABS pump secret until now! haha It's model specific but I was able to confirm the pump was bad off camera using a scan tool (Autel 906BT) ABS test but figured the DIY test method shown in the video could help the masses. Thanks for stopping by! -Glen
Wow, that's a topic I never understood, thanks for the info! Your method of testing the MC is elegantly simple. I imagine there's a lot of force on the fluid coming out of the MC, so you'd need threaded caps for each end to test it properly. I don't remember those test ports on my GM abs sensor, I'll have to look again. Too bad the replacement is so expensive. Removing the ABS would be more complicated than people think, one would have to add in a diverting valve for safety, it wouldn't be easy.
I just replaced my master cylinder in my 99 burban because I thought that was the problem. If I test this thing and it's busted I hope you have a video on how to bypass it.
Bmw x3 just had my rear brakes replaced and before I paid I checked and yes they are Spongy and they say they would have to go deeper and check the master cylinder $$$
on the 1996 E Vans the HCU is under the Drivers seat on from Rail before the Fuel filter.. It gets wet. and the HCU controller on top will Short out.. You can remove and replace it with out removing the hcu.. IF those solenoids get wet like mine did it can cause the Van to Shake and Shimmy without even touching the pedal.
@@ozzstars_cars So if the pump is fine but the module is bad (stuck valve or something) how would you know? Just eliminate all other possibilities? I'm asking because I'm having a sinking pedal issue on a 2014 Fiesta ST and I want to be sure of what the issue is before I start throwing parts and money at it.
@@ozzstars_cars Another question that I never thought about previously, if the ABS is seemingly functioning as it should, but the pedal goes to the floor, can it still be an ABS issue? I still have a gut feeling that it's the ABS module or pump in in some way, because while the ABS engages my pedal is super firm as it should be. To me that seems like confirmation that the master cylinder is not leaking. What are your thoughts?
Great video, your expertise is much appreciated. I can’t wait to run this “rod” test. But I thought I heard you say that you tested the module before you did the pump. How do you test the module?
When I clicked on your video I was expecting to see about the RABS module/unit on the driver side rail, but I'm always glad to discover new info. Would a 91 diesel van have that pump in addition to the module? I'm having the same issue with pedal fade, trying to track down the issue, man it's a headache! Haha. Great video, thanks for sharing!
Thank you im going through that now but my freestyle is a 2005 with 297,500 miles , I'm not putting 800- 1,000 into a used part . O yippee looks like trade in car payment time
I have to agree with you. It's not worth throwing good money after bad. Sometimes we have to bite the bullet and eat it. Good luck with your car search.
done the dirt road abs test which worked great but the pedal still sinks to the floor . Got a second hand ABS module coming from EBAY. I have a sneaky feeling thone of the valves is sticking in the ABS valve body .
Well, I have the same year, same model van as you and did this test with a similar result! So, if I understand you correctly, we need an ABS pump, but NOT the module, correct? Any compatible vehicles with a similar pump? Not having much luck sourcing it as of yet. Thank you for this!
Sorry but unfortunately I can't tell you over the internet what is wrong with your van. I know the owner of the van could not source an ABS pump, he sold the van shortly after I diagnosed it.
Excellent video, one of a kind, and thanks to your daughter as well. My question is, can I use a 2-way scan tool to check the pump/solenoid valves? I can't see those ports on my vehicle ABS pump.
I hit a pothole while slaming the brakes notice my pedal sinking slowly. i had replace the booster and powerstreering 3 months ago because had hard steering wheel and spongy pedal. Right now i replace master cylinder all 4 caliper because seems like one was sticking rear pasanger side.i get the brake pedal hard enough while truck shut off bleed complete already but when I start the truck and press the brakes starts pulsating contantly just while i press . 1999 ford f350 7.3 dually 4wd
Do many, or most, other makes and models cars and vans have these same two test ports on their ABS pumps, too? If not, why, I wonder. Thanks. Also, can ABS pumps leak externally through these piston test ports (the ones that have them)?
@@ozzstars_cars Thanks. I know my 2007 Hyundai Accent ABS pump doesn’t have these test ports. I’m having soft pedal issues and ordered a used replacement ABS pump for it, anyway, hoping that’s the problem. The master brake cylinder is good so that only leaves the ABS pump as the culprit, I’m hoping.
@@ozzstars_cars NO it wouldn't fix the problem but it would prove where the problem is which is the important issue. In my case, I removed the abs fuses and the problem persists. Not sure, however, if that necessarily means, that the problem isn't with the abs system.
I'm having this problem on my '03 escape, - decent pedal when engine off, but low pedal engine on. Sadly, there's no way to get to those ports. 😢 What do you think about putting a used abs on? Do they have to be reprogrammed?
@@ozzstars_cars I plugged the ports on a new MC and pedal was rock hard. Bled the hell out of the system and get a good pedal with engine off, but like you said, it's when the engine is running that the pedal goes nearly to the floor. Also, ran the abs scanner bleed several times and no change.😤 EBay has a seller of used abs units for $150. Might go that route or junk the truck. It has 210K on it. I will admit that I may have unknowingly wrecked the abs myself by pushing the caliper pads in during a pad change without opening the bleeder, but I'd never seen that required in the Haynes book.
@@ozzstars_cars I know. Doesn't make a lot of sense to me, since the abs should be able to handle 100's of lbs of pressure. My issue did occur after a front brake job, though. Could have been a failing pump, but...🤷♂️
@@ozzstars_cars What is considered a "newer vehicle", in this case. And how much $$ is it to have the ABS programmed? Can one do it themselves with a fairly inexpensive scan tool "that does ABS" testing, or does it take a very expensive one such as only a professional mechanic has? Thanks
Yep used a friends Autel XB.. to actuate the abs pump and do the bleeding. 2 pints or so of old brake fluid came out from the pump. Pedal feels great now.
My 1998 f150 4 wheel drive has 3 rubber capped ports on the bottom of my abs pump . Going to test these soon . My abs light is on and some times it bounces off the bottom which tells me it's going into abs mode . I still have ok brakes but oveisly something is going on which is not right .
Thanks for that test idea! Working on '02 Tahoe w/zero pedal resistance (eng on) no leaks, new master cylinder bench bled, lines bled & no air, Autel ABS brake bleed "passed" w/no DTC's. Will try that test next. Question: Of the two lines between the master cylinder and ABS, is one a "return line"?? Wondering where all the pedal pressure is going, if there's no leaks. Many thanks!
@@ozzstars_cars Many thanks again and understood. The “stick test” passed, it didn’t move at all. Not even a mm. I painted notches on one of those plastic brake cleaner nozzle inserts at 1/4” marks. Didn’t budge at all. Back to the drawing board.
Trouble shooting a 2011 Ford Edge with intermittent sinking brake pedal. I can restore the brake pedal by driving on dirt road and slamming on the brakes which engages the ABS system. This lasts for anywhere between 2 weeks to 2 months then the pedal sinks again. I can also restore the pedal by using ThinkDiag OBDII diagnostic software which allows me to turn on the ABS pump while sitting still in the driveway. Does it make sense to you that I probably have a sticking dump valve? When stuck open it is allowing fluid to circulate internally in the HCU I think. A new ABS ECU & HCU is not available for purchase through Ford (Nationwide outage). Are you aware of a way to rebuild or clean out the HCU, specifically the dump valve and possibly restore the normal operation? I know I would then have to bleed the HCU as well as the entire system. Thoughts? Thanks!
You could try all new fluid and if there was any junk inside the abs pump hopefully it would be flushed out. I would use a bidirectional scan tool to bleed the entire system and add new brake fluid. Good first try otherwise plan B.
@@ozzstars_cars Thank you for the reply. That is next on my list to try. Thinking that maybe when I have done previous brake pad replacement and pushing the pistons back in possibly some trash got past the seals. Thanks for your videos!!
My brake pedal sinks after changing the front brake calipers. They have changed the brake master cylinder, they have bled the ABS module with a scanner and it remains the same. I can't find the problem, any ideas?.
Hey 👋man I have a question with similarities to this. my test port is leaking on the left port behind the dust cap any way I can possibly fix that in the garage ??
@@ozzstars_cars okay will do the master cylinder test tommorro disconnect the the 2 brake lines and cap it I will have to to autozone to get caps I guess ...
Thank you sir. That's is 100% my problem. My first go-to was the master cly. Nope. Ive had cars that cost less then that pump. I feel like I should bronze the coat hanger tool. Snap-On would sell that for $$$. thaks again.
Thanks for the video. Does a 09 Ford Escape have test ports? Got one doing the same but the pumps configuration is a little different. Thanks in advance.!!!
Hey Ozzstar. I think you did a great job showing the steps to test. My ABS is from a chevy silverado 01. I did your test but I have the opposite effect in my test. I get no movement at all. What do you think?
Nice job Glen, I use a brake line U adapter I made to close off the MC works good... gotta love when the helpers are like are you all set now? All set? Lol my 15yr son got his patience from his mom 😂 girls are essier lol
Ha ha, I was gonna say the same thing, a home made U shaped adapter with flare nuts on each end would avoid having to search for end caps. Guess you'd have to bleed it well before testing to rule out a false positive.
I think I have an extraordinary problem here, zero resistance on the brake pedal but the brakes are working strong and good. The resistance from the pedal disappears when the vehicle is moving. What is the cause to this problem?
We’ve taken my dad’s 2009 Ford Explorer to 2 mechanics so far - a local mechanic up the street from us (who said they couldn’t figure out what the issue was for the soft brake pedal) & we then took it to a Ford dealership, to see if they could diagnose the problem. (I don’t know how long they sent on looking for problems - but they also said that they couldn’t figure out the issue. They now say they need at least 2 extra hours, for diagnosis, which will cost over $300!) My questions are these - do you know how thorough these initial inspections are, through the dealerships (or do they do as little as possible, especially if they’re busy like this dealership was) & wound you recommend, at this point, of just giving the vehicle to charity & investing in a newer vehicle? I’m not a mechanic myself & know very little about fixing vehicles - (other than what I learn from videos like yours) - & want to know what the best course of action would be, in this particular case. (To save both time & money.) I’m planning on asking Ford to provide a list of “tests” they did, while they’ve had my dad’s vehicle - but I don’t know if they will do this or how detailed the list will be, if I can obtain it.
Hi , good video 👍 I have a 2000 F150 The ABS light has been on a long while but my brakes still work fine. Besides the ABS not working and my brakes locking up on a sudden stop, should I be worried about driving my Ol Bessie?
I know this is older I am hoping you still reply we have replaced brake booster master cylinder all brakes around bled the whole system pulled the fuse to the abs. The pedal with ut off will go to the floor and you pump it once and it stiffens and no leaks anywhere and but if you start it it always goes to the floor it used to be intermittent. The brakes booster one way valve is good and tested vacuum and we have enough for it. we tried doing this test I am wondering what if you feel no movement against the hanger on either side does that indicate that it's bad????
@@ozzstars_cars ill try that didn't think it could be that since it would hold pressure while the vehicle was off after a pump ill do that today thanks
Great video and very helpful! Question: My pedal does the same. Would this also cause calipers to not release right away? * My 07 expedition driver front won't release right away. I've already replaced with new calipers & pads and check valve is ok. Thx!
My 2014 Tundra has this symptom. So when you disconnect the two brake lines from the master cylinder, you will test it by stepping on the pedal,after you plug the two holes up.if the pedal goes down, the master cylinder is bad,right ? If the pedal doesn’t go down, the ABS pump is bad,right? Thanks. By the way,great testing procedures. I will try on mine
If the brake booster does not hiss after you remove the vac line would that mean the booster is bad? i have the same issue with the pedal slowly going to the floor. i plan on testing the abs pump like you showed. just looking at all the possible causes. it's a 98 t-bird with 59k miles it's been sitting for some time now
@@ozzstars_cars With no codes or abs light as mentioned, my dumb old butt would of loaded a master cylinder in the barrel and fired. LOL My DD don't even have ABS Winning!!! (cautiously)
I suspected the master cylinder until I found one line leak. I had viewed many videos in the last two weeks. Your was the first to say how to test master cylinder in place with two plugs! Thank you for teaching!!!
@joeharvie8362 you're welcome Joe! Glad the video was helpful.
Glen, I hate to admit to ignorance of this as I pulled wrenches for many years and that was new to me!! Thanks for sharing that as I learned something new....
We all try to learn something new everyday. 👍
@@ozzstars_cars Knowledge can never be taken away.
Trust, there's mechanics out here for 40+ and still learning something new. Tricks of the trade didn't come from a mechanic book or school. Technique comes from the brain, knowledge is power. This a good guy right here.
Same here brother
Awesome
This is probably the 8th to 10th ABS troubleshooting video I've watched in the last couple of hours, and yet it is the only one that actually showed how to diagnose the ABS Pump itself. Some people jumped to re-soldering joints in the ABS Module and they didn't even mention to try this first. Once you have eliminated; leaks (at each wheel, all the lines, master cyl, brake booster), blown fuses and relays, wiring/connectors/grounds, this should be the next thing to look at.
It's called proper diagnostics, most people don't know how to test and not guess! Thanks for.your comment.
@@ozzstars_cars Well you've got a new subscriber :-D! What part of the country are you in?
@@PapaSmurf337 thanks for subscribing. Delaware.
I have been fighting a slight brake pedal sink for about 5 years. After a ton of break fluid, 2 master cylinders, several trips to the break shop, all I can say is ..... Thank You!
My issue is very minimal, and is intermittent. 1 pump of the brakes, and the pedal wont sink, but sometimes the pedal will sink after I've come to a complete stop. A quick pump of the pedal and its solid again.
NOW, I know what to do to fix it.
You're awesome.
Thanks for your awesome comment James. Good luck with the diagnosis. 👍
Still 1000% USEFUL in Jan 2025; TANK YOU; i thought THAT was the only possibility in my 1994 Isuzu Trooper 3.1 TD after bleeding and bleeding and even opening the Master Cylinder and seeing it was still perfect ( then i used 2 brass M10x1mm plugs with aluminum washers on the MC,and it also proved a good-pedal,it did not move at all); i am sure now that one of the exhaust valves inside the ABS modulator is leaking, all 4 brake calipers are good, pads good, no play in wheel bearings, no leaks.I removed the ABS modulator, dismantled it but the (HUGE!!) valves are factory staked shut, cannot be opened to clean; i went into a dirt road and exercised the ABS, improved very slightly, thinking what to do next, new one is beyond reach, used ones are a gamble,they are also 30 years old...... i wish they made those ABS valves in a way that they could be opened for checking and cleaning.
@josepeixoto3384 unfortunately as you have discovered parts are scarce and unserviceable. I'm sure by now you have realized what the solution is. I haven't seen a 90's Isuzu vehicle in at least 15-20 years. They all rust away around here in Delaware. Where are you located?
4:04 she's so happy to help. thank sir !! good info, my Ford Escape have same issue but goes and come around.
She's an excellent helper!
That's a stuck open de-pressurisation ('dump') valve in the ABS module... The hole is just a hole on the dry side of the accumulator piston. What's happening here is when the brake pedal is depressed, it's routing master cylinder line pressure straight through the open valve into the sprung accumulator (the 'spring' sound you hear when the piston is pushing the piece if wire out...) Normally this valve only opens as the second stage of ABS intervention after the isolation valve closes first, in order to reduce pressure in the caliper and allow the wheel to rotate again. But in this case it's always open, so master cylinder pressure is just going to move an accumulator piston instead of the pistons in the caliper... I had this same issue on a Nissan GTR on track.
Thanks for the detailed explanation.
@@ozzstars_cars No problem! The other symptoms I had, which helped give clues on the GTR, was that the brake pedal would get firmer when you drove the car hard and got it to slide on track in the wet, with the stability control still on! This was really confusing, but again what was happening here was the stability control applying assymetric rear brake in the corner, via the ABS motor pump. This is a bit like pumping the brake pedal with your foot, taking up some of the movement in the accumulator and giving a shorter pedal stroke. But the pressure soon bleeds off... Slow down again and the pedal went to the floor again! Only resolved by replacing the module.
@chillyfly off camera I tested the ABS module in that van with a scan tool. Commanding the valve(s) to close and open. It failed.
@@ozzstars_cars That’s really interesting, sounds right! The ECU software I have for my Nissan doesn’t allow testing individual valves unfortunately, but it runs a complete valve calibration, and it failed on the rear circuit. Funnily enough I had massive problems with overheating front brakes, but the rear pads barely wearing at all…
This is a description on function I was looking for. Now can I rig it? Or just get the valve/pump body? I felt this on my 250 the first time the other day under hard braking with my 7000 lb trailer behind it. I didn't have the warm a fuzzies about it and now I'm here. 😂
👍Thanks!
You're welcome Richard! Thank you for the generosity.
I have been rebuilding my 2001 f150 for a while now cleaning the whole thing up and this is the biggest problem that I have had and I think you just rectify that for me God bless you and thank you so much
Glad I could help
Thanks for another precise explanation of system operation and diagnosis. You do a great job getting your point across with the video. The folks in your area are fortunate to have a good technician like you 👍
Thanks Devin I appreciate your comment. I try my best to give good info. 👍
Hate that feeling like you stepped on a plum when you go for a panic brake. Nice work Glen diagnosing and getting the Ford back on the road.
That's a great analogy, a plum.
@@ozzstars_cars - Or, in the case of modern vehicles, a turd ... 😃
Ooh very helping...it has costed me more than 130 dollars trying to solve it here in kenya. .but thank God i will change Abs Pump
Your conclusion appears to be that fluid is leaking into the piston that is effectively a pressure blow-off accumulator. Therefore a valve is not closing completely. Is there a way to nondestructively remove clean/replace the valve?
I do not know of any way to rebuild an ABS pump if that's what you are asking?
@@ozzstars_cars Yes. If the valve can be serviced, then no need to replace anything but the valve. It looks like they are press fit, which means some sort of removal and then re-pressing would be required. Removal appears certain to be destructive. And there's a seat that the valve tip contacts. So seat removal also might be necessary. It may be a 5 minute job, but it will take the usual 1000 hours to figure it out the first time, make the necessary pressing tool, etc. It's also possible that a solenoid is not passing current, so the valve is not being held closed. But regardless, that initial time investment may be big.
@@idahoviking and be 100% sure it functions correctly because that is some serious liability if things go wrong.
I drove my wife's Kia Sorento after she returned from a trip out of town, and I noticed the brake pedal seemed to have a lot of travel and would sink to the floor if held. I saw somewhere to check master cylinder versus ABS module problem, to drive on a dirt road about 20 MPH and lock up the brakes a few times. If the problem goes away--at least temporarily--the problem is in the ABS module. I tried it and sure enough, the problem went away for about three weeks before returning. Each time I did the locked- brakes thing, the problem stopped, but for shorter and shorter periods. Eventually I got an ABS warning light. The ABS module was $1300 plus labor, so I traded the POS in. KIA mechanics, as I found out over several trips for repairs, are not the upper end of skilled mechanics.
Must have been an old car with high miles?
Good advice Glen. Looks like that van is keeping you busy.
It's gone, for now. 🤣
the new Master cyl seals worked great but with the engine running the pedal still goes to the floor . A Foxwell NT 630 pro ABS bleed scan tool bleed has improved things but the brakes are still acting up . I need to go find a dirt road and have a play .. maybe the ABS unit just needs a good workout .
Good video Glen! I didn't know that ford had that test port! Thanks for the tip!
The secret is out now. 🤣 Thanks for stopping by
Lol
That was a great visual of a bad ABS pump.
coming back for a second look .. My Citroen C5 pedal to the floor was worn out master cylinder seals .. €6 euros for a service kit and a lot of my time and I now have a like new brake pedal feel .
Nice feeling being able to stop!
Great video. Amazing hand-camera coordination. Thanks.
Thank you very much!
Wow at all the movement in the abs pump
Thank you. I have been fighting with my 2012 Lincoln Mkz for about 4 months now. I couldn't get any fluids to come out of the brake calipers. Hopefully this method help me diagnose my problem. Great job explaining this 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice tip. I need to check my son's ABS pump on his '06 Escape when he comes home for Spring Break because he's got a soft pedal.
Let us know what you find if you can. 👍
Thanks , ur video goes into my '97 E350 rebuild library . Saved me Hours of 2nd guessing myself & my work especially with the camera work on coat hanger
Nice!
Great tips Glen and looks like you're getting that van back to its glory days! Keep up the good work!
Haha this van is hanging by a thread. 😬
Thanks I will start with master cylinder test. Hope thats it If it is the abs pump i will go to pick your part with a helper and some dot 3
Thanks for the info, was doubting myself but this confirms my ABS problem on my Honda CRV, cheers
Nice video. Thanks for your time to produce this and your helper did a great job I have 2005 F150 with this problem
I agree, good help! Thanks for the comment and good luck with your fix. -Glen (Ozz)
@daduze, i also have a 2005 w/ this problem. The trk is currently at the mechanic shop for changing out the shift lever cable. I asked the manager to check the brakes - explained the issue and he stated to fix the 'floating brake pedal' would be around $1800....I asked him if the issue would continue to degenerate... he told me it wouldn't - i felt like he didn't want to deal with it....prob. go somewhere else after the shift lever cable is repaired ~ thanks for the vid!!!
Was not aware of this trick! Have seen this happen twice before and basically ruled it out by process of elimination and only the ABS module could be the cause but I never knew of a way to test it directly.
The untold Ford ABS pump secret until now! haha It's model specific but I was able to confirm the pump was bad off camera using a scan tool (Autel 906BT) ABS test but figured the DIY test method shown in the video could help the masses. Thanks for stopping by! -Glen
Wow, that's a topic I never understood, thanks for the info! Your method of testing the MC is elegantly simple. I imagine there's a lot of force on the fluid coming out of the MC, so you'd need threaded caps for each end to test it properly. I don't remember those test ports on my GM abs sensor, I'll have to look again. Too bad the replacement is so expensive. Removing the ABS would be more complicated than people think, one would have to add in a diverting valve for safety, it wouldn't be easy.
A couple of brass plugs and test away the MC.
I just replaced my master cylinder in my 99 burban because I thought that was the problem. If I test this thing and it's busted I hope you have a video on how to bypass it.
Thanks a million, 1st video I have came across that showed how to test and show what plugs to remove to test.
You're welcome Dewayne! We try to go all out here on the Ozzstar's Cars channel.
Bmw x3 just had my rear brakes replaced and before I paid I checked and yes they are Spongy and they say they would have to go deeper and check the master cylinder $$$
Sounds like there could possibly be air in the hydraulic system.
@@ozzstars_cars after $939 they bled the brakes finally
@@Its_sharon07 so I was right?
yes you were right
on the 1996 E Vans the HCU is under the Drivers seat on from Rail before the Fuel filter.. It gets wet. and the HCU controller on top will Short out.. You can remove and replace it with out removing the hcu.. IF those solenoids get wet like mine did it can cause the Van to Shake and Shimmy without even touching the pedal.
Thanks for the video, good job! I worked in the business and have never had an abs module go bad, so this is the first car that has happened to.
You're welcome. In this case the module was fine, the pump was shot.
@@ozzstars_cars So if the pump is fine but the module is bad (stuck valve or something) how would you know? Just eliminate all other possibilities? I'm asking because I'm having a sinking pedal issue on a 2014 Fiesta ST and I want to be sure of what the issue is before I start throwing parts and money at it.
@@anthonyantoine9232 fire up a scan tool and test/check that way.
@@ozzstars_cars Gotcha. I kinda figured as much, but was hoping I could do it easier or without spending money lol.
@@ozzstars_cars Another question that I never thought about previously, if the ABS is seemingly functioning as it should, but the pedal goes to the floor, can it still be an ABS issue? I still have a gut feeling that it's the ABS module or pump in in some way, because while the ABS engages my pedal is super firm as it should be. To me that seems like confirmation that the master cylinder is not leaking. What are your thoughts?
Great video, your expertise is much appreciated. I can’t wait to run this “rod” test. But I thought I heard you say that you tested the module before you did the pump. How do you test the module?
Using a bidirectional scan tool. Also checking for proper power and ground. I made this video for the masses that don't own a bidirectional scan tool.
Never heard of it. Thanks for all this.
Thank you so much for your video. I've been trying to find a way to test that pump for a while now. Very well done. {tongue twister and all)
👍
Excellent job! Great visual!
Thanks Cuba
When I clicked on your video I was expecting to see about the RABS module/unit on the driver side rail, but I'm always glad to discover new info. Would a 91 diesel van have that pump in addition to the module? I'm having the same issue with pedal fade, trying to track down the issue, man it's a headache! Haha. Great video, thanks for sharing!
Not sure that a 1991 model us that advanced.
Sinking also could be the brake booster is the booster is leaking good informative video
Leaking booster is the opposite effect, hard pedal with not much braking
@@ozzstars_cars yeah that's correct been a long week bro sorry I did 4 brake boosters in last 2 days just tired I miss spoke your right
@silverbird58 very true
Thank you im going through that now but my freestyle is a 2005 with 297,500 miles , I'm not putting 800- 1,000 into a used part . O yippee looks like trade in car payment time
I have to agree with you. It's not worth throwing good money after bad. Sometimes we have to bite the bullet and eat it. Good luck with your car search.
done the dirt road abs test which worked great but the pedal still sinks to the floor . Got a second hand ABS module coming from EBAY. I have a sneaky feeling thone of the valves is sticking in the ABS valve body .
I had no idea about this on a ford. Man this van sure needed a lot of work. Great info Glen 👍
Like most commercial vehicles it has lead a hard life with little love shown.
Yeah Steve, he's been working on this thing for months LOL. I wanted to say, since last year, but that was just yesterday.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 🤣🤣🤣
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 🤣🤣🤣
Awesome video! This helped me diagnose and fix the sinking brake pedal on my 2003 F150.
Nice! Smash the thanks button if you get a chance Donnie.
What route did you go to fix the truck?
Got a used ABS pump off a like vehicle in a salvage yard.
@@commonsense1557 How difficult was it to replace? I have the same issue and the local Ford dealership wants $2100 for the repair.
And did the module have to be reprogrammed?
Well, I have the same year, same model van as you and did this test with a similar result! So, if I understand you correctly, we need an ABS pump, but NOT the module, correct? Any compatible vehicles with a similar pump? Not having much luck sourcing it as of yet. Thank you for this!
Sorry but unfortunately I can't tell you over the internet what is wrong with your van. I know the owner of the van could not source an ABS pump, he sold the van shortly after I diagnosed it.
Excellent video, one of a kind, and thanks to your daughter as well. My question is, can I use a 2-way scan tool to check the pump/solenoid valves? I can't see those ports on my vehicle ABS pump.
Yes a bidirectional scan tool can be used to test the abs pump valves.
@@ozzstars_cars Thank you very much Glen!
I learned something today.thanks !
Awesome! I did to but had nothing to do with cars. 😁👍
Excellent video
Thanks Sam
I hit a pothole while slaming the brakes notice my pedal sinking slowly. i had replace the booster and powerstreering 3 months ago because had hard steering wheel and spongy pedal.
Right now i replace master cylinder all 4 caliper because seems like one was sticking rear pasanger side.i
get the brake pedal hard enough while truck shut off bleed complete already but when I start the truck and press the brakes starts pulsating contantly just while i press .
1999 ford f350 7.3 dually 4wd
If I replace the ABS module and pump on my 2002 F150 5.4 L 4X4, how important is it to have the module re- calibrated and I assume by a professional?
Very important if it wasn't an exact matching module number you removed.
Do many, or most, other makes and models cars and vans have these same two test ports on their ABS pumps, too? If not, why, I wonder. Thanks. Also, can ABS pumps leak externally through these piston test ports (the ones that have them)?
I have never seen this design on other makes of cars.
@@ozzstars_cars Thanks. I know my 2007 Hyundai Accent ABS pump doesn’t have these test ports. I’m having soft pedal issues and ordered a used replacement ABS pump for it, anyway, hoping that’s the problem. The master brake cylinder is good so that only leaves the ABS pump as the culprit, I’m hoping.
If the problem is with abs, would the problem be solved by removing the abs fuse and disabling the abs system?
@superdow1000 that's not fixing the problem.
@@ozzstars_cars NO it wouldn't fix the problem but it would prove where the problem is which is the important issue. In my case, I removed the abs fuses and the problem persists. Not sure, however, if that necessarily means, that the problem isn't with the abs system.
Would a bad ABS pump set a code? My brakes sink to the floor. I was getting ready to replace the brake master cylinder.
I'm having this problem on my '03 escape, - decent pedal when engine off, but low pedal engine on. Sadly, there's no way to get to those ports. 😢 What do you think about putting a used abs on? Do they have to be reprogrammed?
Newer vehicles must have the ABS programmed to the ECM. Have you tested the master cylinder for an internal leak?
@@ozzstars_cars I plugged the ports on a new MC and pedal was rock hard. Bled the hell out of the system and get a good pedal with engine off, but like you said, it's when the engine is running that the pedal goes nearly to the floor. Also, ran the abs scanner bleed several times and no change.😤 EBay has a seller of used abs units for $150. Might go that route or junk the truck. It has 210K on it. I will admit that I may have unknowingly wrecked the abs myself by pushing the caliper pads in during a pad change without opening the bleeder, but I'd never seen that required in the Haynes book.
@@Ronbo765 never had a damaged abs pump from compressing caliper pistons without opening the bleeder.
@@ozzstars_cars I know. Doesn't make a lot of sense to me, since the abs should be able to handle 100's of lbs of pressure. My issue did occur after a front brake job, though. Could have been a failing pump, but...🤷♂️
@@ozzstars_cars What is considered a "newer vehicle", in this case. And how much $$ is it to have the ABS programmed? Can one do it themselves with a fairly inexpensive scan tool "that does ABS" testing, or does it take a very expensive one such as only a professional mechanic has? Thanks
Very helpful thank you for the great detailed video! Haley did a great job !!
I agree, yes she did! Thanks for your comment.
I got some brake fluid coming out of those plugs at the abs unit. Guess it’s the abs unit
That's not a good sign
Great useful information! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Yep used a friends Autel XB.. to actuate the abs pump and do the bleeding. 2 pints or so of old brake fluid came out from the pump. Pedal feels great now.
@@CarbonConcept25 what type of vehicle?
Thank you Buy Mine only when the engine is running
My 1998 f150 4 wheel drive has 3 rubber capped ports on the bottom of my abs pump . Going to test these soon . My abs light is on and some times it bounces off the bottom which tells me it's going into abs mode . I still have ok brakes but oveisly something is going on which is not right .
How would you bleed the lines after putting a new one in? Is there a special way to do it?
Pump the pedal method or use a bleeder tool with vacuum.
What about drilling a tapping one of them test ports with a 1/4x20 and running a bolt into it?
If it can't move it can't bypass.
I have no idea how that would be done.
Jason Jones did you try it? Any luck?
I have this symptom in my '07 Expy. Now I have a solution for verifying the problem.
Hopefully you can report back here your findings. 👍
Thanks for that test idea! Working on '02 Tahoe w/zero pedal resistance (eng on) no leaks, new master cylinder bench bled, lines bled & no air, Autel ABS brake bleed "passed" w/no DTC's. Will try that test next. Question: Of the two lines between the master cylinder and ABS, is one a "return line"?? Wondering where all the pedal pressure is going, if there's no leaks. Many thanks!
Usually one line is for the front brakes and the other line is for the rear.
@@ozzstars_cars Many thanks again and understood. The “stick test” passed, it didn’t move at all. Not even a mm. I painted notches on one of those plastic brake cleaner nozzle inserts at 1/4” marks. Didn’t budge at all. Back to the drawing board.
@@ronaldscott781 you're welcome Ron. Did you block off the master cylinder with brass plugs and test? New doesn't always mean it works.
Trouble shooting a 2011 Ford Edge with intermittent sinking brake pedal. I can restore the brake pedal by driving on dirt road and slamming on the brakes which engages the ABS system. This lasts for anywhere between 2 weeks to 2 months then the pedal sinks again. I can also restore the pedal by using ThinkDiag OBDII diagnostic software which allows me to turn on the ABS pump while sitting still in the driveway. Does it make sense to you that I probably have a sticking dump valve? When stuck open it is allowing fluid to circulate internally in the HCU I think. A new ABS ECU & HCU is not available for purchase through Ford (Nationwide outage). Are you aware of a way to rebuild or clean out the HCU, specifically the dump valve and possibly restore the normal operation? I know I would then have to bleed the HCU as well as the entire system. Thoughts? Thanks!
You could try all new fluid and if there was any junk inside the abs pump hopefully it would be flushed out. I would use a bidirectional scan tool to bleed the entire system and add new brake fluid. Good first try otherwise plan B.
@@ozzstars_cars Thank you for the reply. That is next on my list to try. Thinking that maybe when I have done previous brake pad replacement and pushing the pistons back in possibly some trash got past the seals. Thanks for your videos!!
My brake pedal sinks after changing the front brake calipers. They have changed the brake master cylinder, they have bled the ABS module with a scanner and it remains the same. I can't find the problem, any ideas?.
That's hard to diagnose over the internet.
this is a great peice of advice !!! thank you for the video!!
You're welcome Nova! -Glen
I changed the brake pads and rotors on my vehicle. Is that normal for the brake pedal to go to the floor when first pressing
Great info my friend. Thank you for sharing 👍
That's what it's all about!
Hey 👋man I have a question with similarities to this. my test port is leaking on the left port behind the dust cap any way I can possibly fix that in the garage ??
Not that I know of.
Okay love the VIDEO...my goes to the FLOOR.. and i just did that TEST mine has no movement
Have you tested the master cylinder for an internal leak? Checked for a leaking brake line?
@@ozzstars_cars okay will do the master cylinder test tommorro disconnect the the 2 brake lines and cap it I will have to to autozone to get caps I guess ...
Thank you sir. That's is 100% my problem. My first go-to was the master cly. Nope. Ive had cars that cost less then that pump. I feel like I should bronze the coat hanger tool. Snap-On would sell that for $$$. thaks again.
Haha, yeah they probably stole my idea already. 😏
Cheers from Austin, Texas . New to your channel.
Thank you
Would you pull dust caps off abs pump for an autobleed
Good information
Thanks for the video. Does a 09 Ford Escape have test ports? Got one doing the same but the pumps configuration is a little different. Thanks in advance.!!!
I don't know if that model has test ports. An observation mirror is what you need to find out.
@@ozzstars_cars Do many or most ABS pumps of other car makes not have test ports?
Hey Ozzstar. I think you did a great job showing the steps to test. My ABS is from a chevy silverado 01. I did your test but I have the opposite effect in my test. I get no movement at all. What do you think?
I am not sure if GM used the dame technology. A professional level scan tool with abs control features would be helpful.
Good video. To the point.
Thanks for the comment.
What are the lines called that run from the master cylinder to the abs module
You said it. Brake lines.
Nice job Glen, I use a brake line U adapter I made to close off the MC works good... gotta love when the helpers are like are you all set now? All set? Lol my 15yr son got his patience from his mom 😂 girls are essier lol
Haha so true, my kids are like that but they are great helper at times.
Ha ha, I was gonna say the same thing, a home made U shaped adapter with flare nuts on each end would avoid having to search for end caps. Guess you'd have to bleed it well before testing to rule out a false positive.
is it possible for the abs pump to spray fluid when pedal is pressed
I think I have an extraordinary problem here, zero resistance on the brake pedal but the brakes are working strong and good. The resistance from the pedal disappears when the vehicle is moving. What is the cause to this problem?
Test brake master cylinder, check for proper vacuum and test abs.
We’ve taken my dad’s 2009 Ford Explorer to 2 mechanics so far - a local mechanic up the street from us (who said they couldn’t figure out what the issue was for the soft brake pedal) & we then took it to a Ford dealership, to see if they could diagnose the problem. (I don’t know how long they sent on looking for problems - but they also said that they couldn’t figure out the issue. They now say they need at least 2 extra hours, for diagnosis, which will cost over $300!)
My questions are these - do you know how thorough these initial inspections are, through the dealerships (or do they do as little as possible, especially if they’re busy like this dealership was) & wound you recommend, at this point, of just giving the vehicle to charity & investing in a newer vehicle?
I’m not a mechanic myself & know very little about fixing vehicles - (other than what I learn from videos like yours) - & want to know what the best course of action would be, in this particular case. (To save both time & money.)
I’m planning on asking Ford to provide a list of “tests” they did, while they’ve had my dad’s vehicle - but I don’t know if they will do this or how detailed the list will be, if I can obtain it.
Unfortunately I can't diagnose a vehicle online. It's difficult to find a technician/mechanic that is competent.
What do you do for a leaking ABS pump when Ford has discontinued the part (#3L3Z2C286AARM) for a 2000 Ford E350 Club Wagon XLT w/7.3 PowerStroke?
Used one, online
Hi , good video 👍
I have a 2000 F150
The ABS light has been on a long while but my brakes still work fine.
Besides the ABS not working and my brakes locking up on a sudden stop, should I be worried about driving my Ol Bessie?
Sure should. Have you tested the wheel speed sensors?
Do you have the ignition on?
Tested my 2002 sonoma like this and the pistons don't move at all.
(Master cylinder?)
Ignition on, engine off.
Great informative video. Thanks
I appreciate your comment. Thanks.
I like the presentation
@vuyisambantsa4637 thanks buddy!
After u plug master, do u press on brake pedal with engine off to see if it’s hard? Thx
You can check for leaks also to make sure the plugs are tight and not losing hydraulic pressure. Start and make sure the pedal holds firm.
Ok start engine then hit brake pedal. Thx for the reply buddy
I know this is older I am hoping you still reply we have replaced brake booster master cylinder all brakes around bled the whole system pulled the fuse to the abs. The pedal with ut off will go to the floor and you pump it once and it stiffens and no leaks anywhere and but if you start it it always goes to the floor it used to be intermittent. The brakes booster one way valve is good and tested vacuum and we have enough for it. we tried doing this test I am wondering what if you feel no movement against the hanger on either side does that indicate that it's bad????
I don't know what vehicle you are working on but but did you completely block off the brake lines at the master cylinder and test it?
@@ozzstars_cars ill try that didn't think it could be that since it would hold pressure while the vehicle was off after a pump ill do that today thanks
@@ozzstars_cars oh it's a 1997 f150
@@ozzstars_cars master cylinder good!!! Replaced with another brand new one!
@@ozzstars_cars any ideas?
Hey I have a question I don't have any leaks and got brakes bleed twice. Where would you go forward with that?
My pedal sinks only when the motor is fired up. It’s holding 20hg vacuum for over an hour after it’s turned off. Motor off the pedal is hard as
Can this be random and have a slight vibration in the pedal only
Learned a lot from this thanks!
Glad you enjoyed the video, you're welcome.
Great video and very helpful!
Question:
My pedal does the same. Would this also cause calipers to not release right away?
* My 07 expedition driver front won't release right away. I've already replaced with new calipers & pads and check valve is ok. Thx!
I would be suspect of any caliper that has been rebuilt. Also be sure that 100% of the air is removed from the hydraulic brake system.
My 2014 Tundra has this symptom. So when you disconnect the two brake lines from the master cylinder, you will test it by stepping on the pedal,after you plug the two holes up.if the pedal goes down, the master cylinder is bad,right ? If the pedal doesn’t go down, the ABS pump is bad,right? Thanks. By the way,great testing procedures. I will try on mine
You are correct. But before condemning the abs pump check that the system is 100% no air in the line and no leaks.
Thank you for your reply
Ozzstar's Cars so,assuming the ABS pump is bad,and you replace the pump,do you have to reset it or reprogram it or do anything to it?
@@mckoylach1622 the abs module needs to be programmed so the ecm recognizes it.
Ozzstar's Cars thank you so much,appreciated. Very helpful
You never mentioned how much movement a normal operating pump should have, 1/4 inch?
Little to no movement.
If the brake booster does not hiss after you remove the vac line would that mean the booster is bad? i have the same issue with the pedal slowly going to the floor. i plan on testing the abs pump like you showed. just looking at all the possible causes. it's a 98 t-bird with 59k miles it's been sitting for some time now
No power assist and the pedal will be hard as a rock.
@@ozzstars_cars Sweet ty for the reply.
so as long as i can find a used abs modular thats number matches my damaged modular it wont have to be reprogramed to work in my car?
On the old junk yes you can. Won't happen on the newer stuff though. Most new vehicles require a brand new virgin module to be programmed.
great info forsure thumbs up shared
Cool Tip, I didn't know that
And btw this issue does not cause the ABS light to glow on the dash.
@@ozzstars_cars With no codes or abs light as mentioned, my dumb old butt would of loaded a master cylinder in the barrel and fired. LOL
My DD don't even have ABS
Winning!!! (cautiously)