Installation of the Flexible Build System for Resin (Updated)
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- Опубликовано: 9 авг 2024
- This is a complete step-by-step printer installation for the Wham Bam Flexible Build System for Resin. This install video is full of important tips and insights, here is an index if you would like to jump around to different sections:
0:00 Introduction
0:21 Modifying Z Limit Height
03:53 Preparing Your Build Plate to Install Magnet
11:58 Installing Magnet
15:46 Leveling your Build Plate
24:29 Printing Solutions
29:44 Magnetic Forces and Part Orientation
32:27 Cleaning Your Build Plate Between Prints
Our FBSR support page with more info and links to Z Limit Spacers: whambamsystems.com/fbs-for-re...
If you need any further product support please reach out to our technical support at technical@whambamsystems.com
We hope you find this helpful, please let us know in the comments if you have any questions or feedback!
Where to find us online:
www.WhamBamSystems.com
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Please throw in some bigger sandpaper sheets so we can follow these directions
+1000, yes, the small square was a pain to work with. The sandpaper needs to be larger than a plate!
Very helpful, thank you - Ive just picked up a flexi plate aystem for my Halot One Pro and this has given me the confidence I need to install it properly.
You guys should set up an install service for people that aren't confident or have gone through a few magnets
26:12 I was struggling for the longest time with my prints not sticking despite all kinds of adjustments to the settings. Revisited this video and followed the advice about sanding and the next attempt worked instantly.
Thanks for being thorough with your instructions, I foresee a lot more resin printing in my future thanks to this product.
complete noob to 3d printing. this video was significantly more helpful than any of the other very specific brand-wise tutorials i watched. i really appreciate than you put out such a comprehensive tutorial covering even what should be considered basic, step by step.
Thanks! We very much appreciate your comments and compliment. We are here for you to answer questions and can’t even help out if you contact our tech support for general 3-D printing questions.
Great instructions thanks for sharing. Also thanks for advise on how to correctly level the build plate. I'd love more instructional videos like this.
Thanks, we have more on the way!
Just got mine for my Mars 3. Can wait to install
Man, I love small businesses. Excellent video! Just bought the double wham for my Saturn 2, can't wait to install it. Great job!
Tip for prep work: acetone is an industrial strength degreaser.. Then perhaps a quick follow up with iso alcohol.. But never after magnet is installed, just for cleaning build plate before applying magnet. : )
Appreciate the time taken to create a thorough video.
This video was great. Some of the tips in the magnetic forces and orientation were especially eye opening!
thank you kindly!
This is an awesome video, thank you for being so thorough!!
Thank you kindly for saying so!
Just tested my flex plate on Mars 3 Pro. It's a sick upgrade my friend. No adhesion nor plate slide problem. I sanded my base plate until it was quite flat then I did the installation. thanks for that masterpiece bro ✌🏻
thank you for this tut and I'm lucky I first looked up a tut before installing :)
Great instructions, thank you !
thank you for saying so!
Please let us know how it goes and do feel free to contact us by email or phone for further assistance.
Just bought a Mars 3 and the Wham Bam DWR so I really appreciate this in depth video. Cheers.
Glad it was helpful!
@@WhamBamSystems Hey guys, do I need to sand my build plate if it is brand new? I'm installing to a unused Mars 3 because I wanted to use the flex plate from the get go. Cheers.
@@cfriedalek yes, it helps to ensure that you have removed the oils and contaminates from factory and puts a bit of tooth on the metal.
Outstanding video, technical, in-depth, and comprehensive.
Great guide and outstanding customer service.
thank you kindly!
Just saw someone post a video showing this on Reddit. Insta-purch'd! Can't wait to get it!
Fantastic video you pretty much covered everything but maybe a short video about installing the spacer in :)
Good point, each machine is different but maybe we will have to make a spacer only video!
👉I was going to ask this very question, but noticed you mentioned it, I just purchased a Saturn S. & had no idea it needed a Spacer… If there is anything out there that would help with the installation of a Spacer & How -2-Do-it would be much 🙏appreciated🙏
☯️ZenModeling☯️
This helped me out with my mono x my build plate was way way out was going to give in a buy another printer but well happy now .
wow, so happy we were able to help!
I wish the sandpaper provided was a whole sheet like in the video and not a little square. That way we can sand the whole build plate at once like in the video so as to not sand it out of level.
I agree
You think they would for the price
Thank you very much, directly answered my question whether the _Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K_ would need a spacer!
This is what I would call a Wham Bam answer :-)
Glad we could help!
Great walk-through! I was able to follow along with no issue
Thank you for the feedback, glad it helped!
Ty this video was very informative
I had bought the Wham Bam for my Creality LD-006 about 2 years ago. Unfortunately I moved and my printers went into storage.
Flash forward, and I am setting up my office for my printers and just installed the system on my printer.
I had to make some adjustments to my printer to make it work, but after some fiddling around and a test print...it works great!
Awesome, thank you for sharing!
Great overview, Thanks.
You are welcome!
Great knowledge, thanks for the tips :)
thank you for your kind words!
Thanks for this very helpful
super! very happy to know
After some problems with the leveling with the Paper Method, I levelled the build plate right onto the VAT and that did the trick for me on my Saturn 2. Adhesion is slightly worse than on the regular build plate but not too much. Few secs extra on bottom fixed it as well. Otherwise good product.
So the big thing is that stainless steel plate is excellent for both easy removal of prints and great for adhesion. You can use a sharp scraper on the stainless surface without worry of damaging the aluminum surface. I would consider just gluing the stainless plate onto the aluminum buildplate and forget using the magnet.
Just received my first printer an Anycubic Photon Mono 6k and also a Wham Bam flex for it. It was a bit of a bummer to realize that I need to buy two silly small screws 3 mm longer and print a small spacer before I can install it. Now I have to first mess with resin, print and clean before I can even install. For a 800USD product it really did not feel too much to expect a spacer and two screws to come with it.
Sorry to hear your frustrations we can understand completely. However, the need for spacer and screw is in all of our literature, videos and reviews. We do not include them as each size covers different machines and manufacturers do not tell us when they are changing their models and dimensions, so by having downloadable files we can have the most up to date always available for a 5 minute print and practically zero cost to you. Hope you can understand, thanks
@@WhamBamSystems No, not really. I am guessing here, but I assume most Printerbrands use screws in M3 och M4 diameter. Length can not vary so much. Including one pair of M3/M4 in length 8, 10, 12 millimeter length would cover a lot of models. Add to that a pair of circular washers in the thickness of the flex plate. Put that "mounting pack" in a ziplock with the printer could hardly be more than a dollar for you and save a lot of us customers the time top go to the hardware store and buy a whole pack of screws just to get two.
I love the mouthbreahting at the end of the video xD
Jokes aside, these were some awesome tips. I just got my Whambam Flex plate for my Saturn 2 and did a Test print but did not have any success. Am gonna relevel the Plate and hope it works. The Resin i am using is also quite tricky (Creality standard black resin).... But fingers crossed
Write us if you need any support technical@whambamsystems.com
I have been trying to figure out why my printer all of a sudden had horrible layer shift that just so happened to start after putting on the flex plate. I tried everything I could think of to fix it and later today I was planning on ripping off the whole wham bam system until I just found out that a spacer is required on the mars printers.
I HIGHLY recommend either including one in the packaging or at least make it more known that those with mars systems need that spacer instead of requiring people to search for days to finally find the answer on a RUclips video
Hello Leland, so sorry for your issues! actually in our instructions and on our support page it clearly states the need for a spacer. If you or anyone is getting base layer shifts it is because the level is too tight, the spacer helps alleviate this. With Elegoo machines sometimes you can skip the spacer as there is much play in the plunger, but the spring pushes down too hard, to avoid this, level on 2 sheets of paper, then raise head, remove one, and hit home to test. Paper should be snug on all areas but able to move.
@@WhamBamSystems actually I’m not getting any layer shifting at the base, it is towards the middle of the prints and is easily replicated from print to print. If wham bam may not affect that, then what could it be?
@@lelandtaylor1037 can you please send us an email with photos of shift and screen shot of part in slicer? Technical@whambamsystems.com it will be easier to help you directly through email and or phone thanks!
The flex plate has a small flap where you can hold the plate to remove it from the magnet. If the lifting speed is to fast, the thick resin pulls the plate a little bit from the magnet and the resin goes through the two plates. Thats why the flex plate shifts sometimes. I would drill small holes in this flap to reduce the contact surface during the lifts. 🤔
If you want a flat surface by doing this. Use a sheet of glass becouse its a perfectly flat surface. Or if you have access to a surface plate use that. And make figure 8 pattern and thats called lapping essentially what he is asking you to do in this video
I wish I had seen this video before installing. I followed the paper directions to the “t” but this was much thorough. Perhaps adding a QR code that links to this video.
currently waiting my 72 hours for the adhesive to apply correctly. cant wait!
So I got this for the elegoo Jupiter and holy hell this magnet is heavy. The build plate of Jupiter is already a brick. Im not saying this doesn't do what it says. But any chance you can r&d a 2.0 version that's lighter? It's pretty thicc as well. Perhaps a thinner neodymium version? Great idea. Right direction for sure. I'd even buy a pre magnified build plate and then just use the flexi plate. Well done but the inches are there to gain. Wish y'all best of luck as you get this out the door. Thanks again. ❤️
Did you get the XTR or original FBSR?
We use very high strength magnets of our own formulation to get the hold you need to ensure that large prints will not pull the plate off
Thanks
When I can afford to (when not paying for doctors and meds), I plan to get one for my printer! You guys make great products and I see them talked about everywhere with great responses! Looking forward to getting one when I'm able!
Good information. You clean the with alcohol then you keep touching it with your bare hands. After that you sand. Your sanding the natural skin oils into the plate, that's a no-no! I like the let it sit in alcohol for 1/2 hour before the install. DON'T touch the plate with your bare hands before putting the adhesive on. It probably won't matter but you video is slightly flawed. I like the build plate, works great!!
That homing bug was driving me nuts. I thought I was doing something wrong 😂.
need A HOT BO AND FLEX BUILD SYSTEM FOR MY SATURN ULTRA 12K !
Great video! My Anycubic Photon Mono X has a rough surface already...do you recommend still sanding? Thanks!
Absolutely, sanding is always necessary. You need to be able to break through the coating they put on the build plate as well as really get excess oil from manufacture out of the pores.
Thank you Wham Bam! Are you planning to release a plate for the upcoming Elegoo Jupiter model?
Absolutely! As soon as we have accurate measurements
There's also a kickstarter on it.
New to resin printing, but not to 3D printing in general. Got a Mars 3 Pro. I may try this, with the spacer of course. Question: What is the thing attached to your build plate base that has a handle?
Bought a Mars Ultra 4 and installed it. Waiting 72 hours for the glue is killing me!
its worth the wait to have a great adhesion! Please let us know how it goes and do feel free to contact us by email or phone for further assistance.
great information thank you. however, not sure what I did wrong. my magnet did adhere perfectly and the grip is good but i am getting resin between the build plate and the magnet, so instead of getting a nice flat surface i have a slight curve now. have you seen this before and is so how to fix that
Please send us photos and an explanation with your settings and screen shot of model to technical@whambamsystems.com and we will help you resolve this!
forgive my stupidity as i am new to resin printing and your product was recommended so i got it. on the mars 3 do i or do i not need to add the spacer/limiter?
if so, where?
Everyone was new once, no worries with asking good questions. Yes look at when I am pointing to the z limit trip area of the Mars 2. They are similar, mounted to the bottom of the arm that holds the print head.
I really appreciate this video and wish I had seen it sooner! I have a Voxelab Proxima and due to my safety concerns with resin and 99% IPA, the printer and wash/cure station is in the garage. I've had one work great and that's before I discovered I needed a spacer! I've done the machine bed leveling process correct (your method 2) and I am continuing to get failures. And I don't think it's the fault of your bed or even that spacer. Being up in the NorthEast, even though the weather is warm, by our standards, I think it is too cold for my Elegoo resin? The garage is anywhere between 65-72 as of late and the Technical Data Sheet gives a range of 20-25C (68-77F) Being somewhat new to resin, I'd love some suggestions!
it really depends on your failures, can you explain what is failing? or better send photos to technical@whambamsystems.com. if it is printing past base layers and you are having failures later it may be your supports, if you are not getting good adhesion to the plate we can help with settings, also make sure your resin is well mixed and within temp range as you have said
check out this solution by clough42: ruclips.net/video/3sjxZTvp3Rg/видео.html
Hi, how much time this system works? What happens with the magnet in time?
With the Elegoo Saturn 4K, do you HAVE to print a spacer, or is there enough play in the ball joint to just level it with the screws loose? I have a brand new machine never used, and I specifically ordered the Flexible Plate to adhere it to the machine prior to levelling and setup. I would hate to have to run this one time to print a spacer , then have to go through all of the cleanup procedures, etc. to install the plate. Thanks in advance for this great setup video.
It is advisable to print the spacer so the springs are not so loaded they push down the paper too low, you can also unscrew the interceptor arm and back it with a few washers and rescrew it in, you only need about 3mms extra.
make sure when testing level that the paper under flexi plate and above screen can move with even drag under all build area
Any chance you can tell us what your mods are on your resin printers? Specifically the handles and what look like hooks on the hoods? I'd love to print something like those on my FDM printer for my Mars 3! Is there a Thingiverse link or similar?
of course! tilted hanger: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3918095 handles: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3876508
there are others on same page: www.thingiverse.com/psdesign/designs
The Anycubic Photon M3 Max has a checkered/textured build plate. I don't really want to sand it. Is sanding of the M3 Max build plate recommended, highly recommended? I've been really happy with my FDM Wham Bam plate, and I look forward to this on my resin printer. My Wham Bam plate is arriving today.
It is highly recommended, if you don’t sand you risk still having contaminants on the build plate that could cause magnet to peel up later
I just finished following you step by step up to leaving the 3M adhesive to cure. I have a question, I'm trying to do everything by y'all's book so that, if I have any issues, I can possibly help y'all solve them. That being said, would putting caulk around the edge of the magnet work for attempting to make the build plate as a whole more Alcohol proof?
Interesting, but not sure what caulk would do, maybe by spreading silicone around edges it would seal it better?
@@WhamBamSystems to seal out the alcohol? Like, so that the adhesive was protected Incase it got left in the cleaning bin somehow! 🤣
Very nice guide!
I just missed the mounting of the washer to the Mars (I have a Mars 3, but I guess I still need the 2.6mm washer to avoid pushing thru my screen).
I assume you had it preinstalled.
Thank you, yes you need a spacer to fit under the interceptor arm for the z limit switch. Spacers can be found on whambamsystems.com/fbs-for-resin-support
@@WhamBamSystems , Great!
Thank you for the quick response!
Awesome instructions, I have the elegoo mars 2 pro and I'm having a hard time finding the perfect size wham bam system. Which would you recommend?
whambam3d.com/collections/fbs-for-resin/products/140-x-84-mars-2-pro-nova3d-bene-4-and-creality-ld-002h
And thanks for the nice words
@@WhamBamSystems Your welcome! just ordered it, cant wait to install!
Can I use 160 grit sandpaper or should I go finer? Thanks!
Can you make a setup video beginning to end for the Saturn 2? New 3d printer person here and honestly might just return this product because I thought it was plug and use. How am I supposed to print some item with more mm space without using it first, which then makes it a poor plate for installing?
You can use washers in place of the spacers, or with all Elegoo systems you can also skip the spacer and just level on 2 sheets of paper, if you want more direct info please write to us at technical@whambamsystems.com and we can give you 1 on 1 help
Are there any discounts or promocodes for buying combinations of products like the slapmat and flexible plates?
Make sure you are signed up for our newsletter, a little birdie told us there *may* be a sale this weekend: eepurl.com/dz_JNz
Question about washing the buildplate. is it possible to wash your bed and the plate still magnetized together? seems more reasonable to do it that way to prevent the magnetic base from having any resin drip on it.
I would probably remove the flex plate after wash anyways for a brisk spray and wash all sides down with paper towel anyways.
You could but do not leave sitting in alcohol for more than a minute at a time, you don’t want to expose the glue to alcohol for more time than necessary. I like to pre drip my whole head and print over the vat before cleaning and then have little extra resin to clean when I can afford the time
Was just gifted a Mars 3 pro and the wham bam build plate. Do I need to make the spacer first? I saw you commented on another post that the spacer is not usually necessary for Elegoo printers. I havent set it up yet and was wondering if I need to make a spacer first or if I can install while doing my initial setup. Thanks!
not necessary, but if you use the spacer you won't have such tension on the spring in the head, so yes, do recommend it whambamsystems.com/fbs-for-resin-support
Got my XTR double wham kit for my Elegoo Saturn 2 and the sand paper you get is less than half the size of the build plate :x The finer paper is less than a quarter of the flex plate size.
Thank you for the feedback, we are making improvements!
I imagine sanding is still recommended if the plate is unused and brand new? Thanks for the video
it has a specially etched texture on both sides of the flexi plate, which in most cases provides the right amount of grip and release. if your parts dont stick well enough I suggest first increasing base layer exposure. if you still want more grip then sand one side only, and keep the other for when you dont want as aggressive of a hold.
actually if you are talking about build plate before magnet install, yes sanding will help remove cutting oils and any surface finish factory may have given
@@WhamBamSystems Yes thanks...I was referring to a brand new unused built plate. Thank you very much for the reply.
When you did the leveling, had you already installed the little z-leveling piece to adjust for the extra height on the buildplate? I would assume yes, but just want to make sure :)
Yes. Install spacer first if needed
@@WhamBamSystems thank you very much for the quick reply!
@@WhamBamSystems So why is this essential step completly missing in this video???
@@lafamiliacorleone2509 its actually one of the first topics spoke about after intro 0:21
Hi Today I received the XTR of the M3 MAX and it did not have a spacer, only two screws. Is that enough!
How long does the adhesive last before it starts to peel off? Can i hold up to alcohol washing station? Thanks!
we dont recommend leaving magnet in any solvent or IPA for more than 1 minute as over time it can dissolve the glue or the coating on the magnet. We typically clean by wiping down with paper towel, placing in a vat with IPA for one minute, taking out and wiping down again or drip drying.
I haven't received my printer yet - Saturn 2 - but I belive that it was a non-flat plate, it has some sort of wrinkle texture on it , for sanding it down to attach the magnet, is a little bit of sanding going to work? or do I need to sand it quite a bit to make it pretty much flat ?
if you are speaking about the texture on the bottom, no worries, sand with the 220 sand paper to open the pores and give some open scratches to bare metal, you don't need to eliminate the current texture, unless you are taking out a big curvature in the build plate
@@WhamBamSystems thank you for your reply, yeah the texture is what I was talking about
I just purchased this for my Saturn 3 with a laser etched build plate. Do i still need to sand the build plate before installed the magnet?
We always recommend sanding the build plate to open the pores, even for brand new build heads, to help remove cutting oils and contaminants and prepare the metal for the 3M bond.
We worked with 3M to have the best glue that would resist the harsh chemicals found in 3D Print Resins and Isopropyl Alcohol, but it does not do well on any metal with contaminants.
On top of it all, many printers are famous for not having a flat bottom, which will cause issues later.
Follow these instructions for best installation:
• Be sure to remove old magnet and adhesive
• Check that your build plate is flat by laying a steel ruler on edge across it in all directions and see if there is any light passing between it.
• Let the whole head sit for at least 30 minutes in an alcohol bath to remove residue from the entire build head and hard to reach places.
• Clean every surface of the build head well with pure isopropyl alcohol and paper towel to remove all residue and dry well.
• Use 220 grit sandpaper on the bottom of your build plate to rough up the surface and open the pores and ensure there is no residue left
• Re-clean with alcohol and fresh paper towel, repeat process with new paper towel until towel comes away clean
• Let dry completely
• Then mount the magnet and leave to cure for 72 hours.
When installing the new magnet please follow along with this video.
ruclips.net/video/JrIeuAgX7vI/видео.html
let me know how it goes!
How about some super magnets on the top corners to keep the peel from happening?
I ordered some neodymium magnets to use for jobs with heavy suctioning/weight demands. Will make cleanup messier but extra insurance.
Trying to get this to work on my Elegoo Jupiter, I have printed the spacer from the website and installed it. However when I hit home, it still sounds like its applying too much force on the screen so I just stop the build head as I am afraid of damaging it. I wonder if someone else had this issue and if there is any advice for me, thanks!
When I set up my mars 2 pro it had me follow a process to calibrate the Z axis home. couldnt I just do that again to adjust for the new depth instead of modifying the unit itself?
If the head can move up at least 3mm then you can level to new added thickness, but we highly recommend installing the space, it’s the easiest print snd install on the planet and would be safer for your machine during homing
Great video! Wish I had watched it first, but I'm hoping it will still work without all the prep. Any suggestions if the magnet does come off the plate? Is there replacement adhesive I can get or anything? Also, just a minor comment about the video... A few spots you could hear some heavy breathing from the camera operator, a little distracting, but not a big deal.
Thank you! Hopefully it stays, if not, please contact us at technical@whambamsystems.com
do you have installation about m5s anycubic whambam? need video for that please.
Not specifically, but we can help, depends on your model, please send us an email to technical@whambamsystems.com and will be sure to give you a clear instructions
on the model you are fitting this on, have you already printed and installed the 2.6mm spacer you were talking about to stop the machine from going down to far? if so do you do a video on installing that?
Here is a more detailed video on the Z spacer: ruclips.net/video/oIq7RyCIg9s/видео.html
@@WhamBamSystems Thank you very much. my kit arrived this week and i am keen not to mess it up.
I've had my plate installed for a bit now and it started out great. Now for some reason my metal flex plate has been sliding sideways on the magnet (about 1/8" or more on a 3 hour build). The magnet is firmly attached to the build plate and hasn't moved at all but the flexible plate itself for some reason has stated to shift to the side. I've cleaned everything (magnet, flex plate, build plate) thoroughly with alcohol and let it all air dry. I thought maybe it was a level issue so re-leveled several times and tried it and it's still doing it. Any thoughts on why it would side-slip and how to stop it? Maybe roughing up the magnet surface and flex plate surface to increase friction?
Please write to technical@whambamsystems.com for one on one support. Is it shifting only in base layers or further into the print?
Thanks
@@WhamBamSystems The shifting seems to occur primarily but not entirely on the base layers. I did several additional test runs to gather additional data and I'll be in touch by email shortly. Thanks.
Thx for this video. I have a question: I use sprayway glass cleaner for cleaning up my plate. Is it a problem with the 3M adhesive?
What are the active ingredients in the cleaner?
@@WhamBamSystems ethanol, 2-butoxyethanol,propane,butane. It clean the plane with out residue.
@@Centurion3D those are all very harsh chemicals, I will try to keep them away from the 3M adhesive, but that doesn’t mean you cannot use them to clean the Flexi plate. Just remove the Flexi plate and wipe down with your spray solution and dry well before putting back on
@@WhamBamSystems Thx. Now I know, better safe then sorry! Thx again.
Is there any way I could remove the magnetic sticky magnet and reapply it to correct a non-flat build plate. Effectively
redo the installation?
no, unfortunately it will probably destroy the magnet, please write us to see what we can do, technical@whambamsystems.com
Its been a year since you did this. I assume you are now providing these prints that you mention in the beginning for the z-axis right?
Nope, but you can print them on yours before you install
Despite following these instructions and sanding after doing what I felt was a pretty good leveling on 2 machines, both machines failed to adhere. I'll try to manipulate the settings and I ran a known good print last night we'll see but I'm skeptical that it adhered. I'll try releveling but... I was able to print out the box with the standard machine, was hoping this would be easy
Hi, we can help, do send an email to technical@whambamsystems.com include a screenshot of your settings and a screen shot of what you are printing, and type of resin. Typically if leveled and you are having bad adhesion on base layers (not supports breaking) then you just need to either up your base layer exposure or rough up one side of the Flexi Plate with included 400 grit wet dry sandpaper. but there could be other details in slicer to tune, so looking forward to your email
@@WhamBamSystems So, right after this, it did work. I have printed and adhesion has occurred scuffed and not scuffed. Now I just have to remember to put the bed back before hinting print!!!! ;) also fixing up my vat, replacing the FEP and new resin and using a heater helped return the printer to reliable.
This is the first time I heard about the gap issue on the Mono X. Is there a detailed guide on using iPhone screen protectors to fix the issue? Thanks
Sure, here is guide from one of our users, found on our support page img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/e609d0dd-0e9a-451a-9623-1053f671b776/downloads/WhamBam%20on%20Mono%20X%2020201212.pdf?ver=1629931971986
@@WhamBamSystems Ooooh Thanks so much!!
@@kuzey3d767 you are very welcome!
I purchased one for my Mono 4K and the screws are too short for the Z spacer, do you know what screws I need that are longer to fix this?
Usually M3 x 6
I saw a video from "Robert Bekoscke." It seems that he didn't add anything 2.6mm for the optic sensor of the Sonic mini 8k.
Is this safe for my Mini 8k, to just add the plate with no 2.6mm spacer?
As long as the build head has enough room to move up over 3 mm from original position you don’t need a spacer
so uh...i forgot to print the spacer beforehand. i just switched the screen and decided to add a wham bam plate at the same time, but forgot i should have used the old plate to print a spacer first. i have an elegoo saturn (KS version), does this version need the spacer in your experience? the plate has quite a lot of give, but usually the people i see not needing the spacer have newer printers!
You can do without a space, just loosen screws on head for leveling, with Wham Bam FBSR installed hit home and place 2 sheets of paper on the screen, when it homes hold the build head in place while tightening leveling screw. Then hit home again, it will lift before homing, remove one sheet of paper and test with other, there should be consistent resistance on all sides of build plate but paper should be able to move
My Flex plate for my Elegoo Mars 2 Pro came in today. I've see a few videos where I need add an optical cut off because of the extra thickness the magnet and flex plate add. I noticed you didn't do it in this video. I'm guessing that that isn't necessary?
Print and install this www.thingiverse.com/thing:4664287
Truthfully I would have purchased a whole new build plate with spacer (if needed) from you guys if you would have offered it. The first one I got I screwed up and then never used. Now I got a new printer and really need this for some of my prints (they print flat on the plate like many FDM prints and are near impossible to scrape off). It has been sitting here in my basement unused because I am so scared I will screw it up again. Why can't I buy everything assembled for me ready to use? I would pay the extra money for it.
Please write to us at tech.director@whambamsystems.com and we will walk you through every step of the install and even get on the phone with you. We want everyone to have a great experience with our products and are happy to help you get there
@@WhamBamSystems the video is sufficient but I much rather have purchased a whole new build plate with everything ready to go. I would think this would actually make you even more money since you could get some profit off of selling the build plates.
@@WhamBamSystems Thanks for that, I’ll definitely be sending you an email!! You guys are INCREDIBLE!!!
👉You are the ONLY Company who sells these FLEX-PLATES that:
A: mention how to successfully install the Flex-Plate.
B: Have done actual TESTING with the Product you are selling to the public!!!
C: Give your Contact Information so the customer can contact you for help!!!
D: actually Help your customer so they can successfully use your product!!!!
👏👏👏🤛BRAVO👏👏👏👏
Lee Barret aka:ZenModeling
How about formlabs form 2 /3 printer, have you try to test it for your products?
it doesnt seem possible as there is no way to adjust the z height and also due to the tilting wiping vat, unfortunately
What is a good adhesive to reattach the magnet to the plate? I left the printer arm up and forgot about a month when I returned the magnet is drooping on one corner. I tried superglue and it didn't work. More superglue?
I glued it with two-component epoxy glue
I have a mars pro 2. If I do not add the spacer and just level the plate loose like the third method for leveling. I should be fine without a spacer correct? As long I am vigilante about pressing the home button when plate is not loose
You should be fine but spring may cause too much downward pressure. You may want to level over 3 sheets of paper in this case then remove 2 and check against one sheet, be sure it’s tight but paper can move,
If level is too tight you will get shifting during base layers
@@WhamBamSystems thank you a note to all, just get the spacer if you do not u run the risk of breaking ur screen. also if u see a comment about removing the Z spring tried, did not work. just get the spacer the only reason you would not wwant the spacer is becuase you put it on already. if thats the case ask a friend to print the spacer for you. trust me!
Reading the datasheet about the adhesive, seems it reaches pretty much 90% holding power after just 30 minutes, with full holding power at 72 hours
So in theory you could get away with using it within an hour of applying it
I tried this, did my first print 45 minutes after installation. Worked perfectly. It was a small room test print, so it didn’t really put too much stress on the adhesive, and I stuck to pretty small stuff for the first few days. After about 5 days, I did a full build plate print, and it was great.
After about a month of printing, I’ve gone through almost a kg of resin, and through many prints, as well as washing the entire build head multiple times, the adhesive is still holding strong. If you want to wait a few days to print, then wait. But I was very impatient, so started printing within an hour and a half of receiving the build plate, and it works great!
Hello, I got the Elegoo Saturn 2 8K and can't seem to find the spacer for this machine on your site, I already bought a double wham pack for this machine, could you please let me know how to adjust the Z level?
Info on spacers can be found on our support page. whambamsystems.com/fbs-for-resin-support
With Elegoo you rarely need spacers unless spring is too stiff. The Saturn 2 spacer can be found here www.thingiverse.com/thing:5407687
I've a new unused build plate do I still need to sand it or is the clean factory sandblast good enough?
definitely need to prep the build plate. we always recommend sanding the build plate to open the pores, even for brand new build heads, to help remove cutting oils and contaminants and prepare the metal for the 3M bond.
follow these instructions for best installation:
On top of it all, many printers are famous for not having a flat bottom, which will cause issues later.
Here are the main points.
• Be sure to remove old magnet and adhesive
• Check that your build plate is flat by laying a steel ruler on edge across it in all directions and see if there is any light passing between it.
• Let the whole head sit for at least 30 minutes in an alcohol bath to remove residue from entire build head and hard to reach places.
• Clean every surface of the build head well with pure isopropyl alcohol and paper towel to remove all residue and dry well.
• Use 220 grit sand paper on the bottom of your build plate to rough up the surface and open the pores and ensure there is no residue left
• Re-clean with alcohol and fresh paper towel, repeat process with new paper towel until towel comes away clean
• Let dry
• Then mount the magnet and leave to cure for 72 hours.
I
let me know how it goes!
@@WhamBamSystems Thanks for the reply!
Has the glitch in the Elegoo Firmware been updated to fix the homing issue? Thanks for your quick reply to my earlier question!
what glitch?
@@WhamBamSystems You mention in the video, on the Elegoo systems, when setting a new home position from the screen, if you home the machine again, it will revert to the original default home position and that it was a glitch in the firmware.
@@behamiltonsrful sorry, its actually not a glitch, just the way the machines work, if you manually level and it takes a good level you can do 'set z=0' to remember the home, even use the UI to go up or down a few 0.1mm increments and use 'set z=0' . we just advise not to use this to actually level initially as the machine always homes to where the lever arm trips the switch then moves to position programmed with 'set z=0' . So if you set it much higher than the home position the home risks crashing into screen first
I unfortunately found this video after installing the magnet on my Saturn, I did pretty good preparing the plate and placing the magnet my self, but didn’t print the z-axis spacer and am afraid of breaking the screen trying to print one. Any suggestions to solve this problem?
Edit: Just got to the end of the vid, totally should’ve just emailed y’all sorry :)
You don’t necessarily need a spacer for the Saturn,it’s just that when you add the Wham Bam FBS you are adding 2.6 mms that have to move the head up that much during homing, as the Saturn has a spring in the head it will give more compression and you risk having too tight of a level, to get around this follow these leveling instructions: mount the FBS to your build head and put on machine. Remove your vat. Put two sheets of paper over the screen, loosen both head screws so the head moves very freely. Hit home. When head is all the way down tighten screws being careful not to push down too much in any direction due to tightening. Hit home again and when head lifts up remove one sheet of paper. Check to see that the paper can move but offers some resistance across the full build plate. Do not use “set z=0” function, if you don’t have à good level try again. Let us know how it goes!
@@WhamBamSystems worked like a charm and have successfully printed the spacer, removed it from the build plate with ease, and got it installed no problem. Thanks a bunch for the help :)
So question when it comes to sanding: If you're build plate has that paint/coating cover like the mars 2 mono has (your pro version looks to be silver on the bottom where mines black all over) Do you have to sand away all of the coating to leave the bare metal? I've worn out the sandpaper that came trying to do just that and I'm not really close to it. Is it fine with out sanding it all away or must it be compleatly gone? I am sanding evenly, and so see some silver poking though, but this seems like some thick stuff. As is, will any kind of sandpaper work for this step? As said I've worn away the sheet offered to where holes and areas of the paper have no texture anymore. If I have to take off all the paint I need another peice (and maybe new arms).
Also a little bit of advice... please don't offer sandpaper thats the same exact length of the build plate. It has made sanding dificult and I don't like scraping the edge of my build plate across my work surface. Please at LEAST an inch longer than the plate size ordered so we have some wiggle room!
Yes best to get through the paint if possible
@@WhamBamSystems I've tried but I've worn out the sand paper that came with the kit. Sanded for a good two hours just to get a hint of the bare metal underneath. My arms acualy hurt today from doing it.
So again, what kind of sand paper do I need? any thats trhe same grit or a specific kind that I now have to wait to be able to afford? The video made it seem like I just needed to 'open the pours' not 'compleatly remove' the coating.
@@TAiiNE you shouldnt sand for more than a few minutes, perhaps you were using too fine of sand paper, the 400 girt is really to prep the Flexi Plate if needed, go to the hardware store and get some 220 grit, it will cut it down fast, mount to a flat wood surface so you are keeping the bottom flat, pass in circular motions and check the bottom every so often. switch orientations every 30 seconds.
you dont have to remove all of the black just get some of the bare metal showing through, the more you have, the more secure and long lasting the grip of the 3M
@@WhamBamSystems I was using the 220, not the one for the flex plate. I know how to read instructions and follow videos :P But nothing in the video said anything about the coating and the plate in the video already had bare metal on the bottom. It wasn't until I looked up the mars 2 pro and found that it came bare metal where as mine has the black coating. Thus why I asked if I needed to remove all the coating as trying to do so I wore out the 220 sand paper.
why u don sell spacers for the elegoos. makes life just complicated...
Do you know if they're making a flexible plate for the Anycubic M3 MAX?.
Hope so!
Might want to mask up while sanding aluminum....
lol
Hi Peter, do you know if it is necessary to use a Z spacer on Elegoo Saturn, I just bought your Flexible Build System 196x126mm for my new printer, but I'm not sure about that. Thanks.
It could help, here it is www.thingiverse.com/thing:5334643
also found on our support page
@@WhamBamSystems thank you
Quick question regarding the 'Home' button in the manual area of the Elegoo printer: Should the 'Home' button still not be pressed as of today? If anybody knows?
Because I have pressed it a lot of times, and don't seem to have an issue with the z position being reset, or anything. Maybe the software issue have been fixed?
Just curious..
are you talking about 'set z = 0' ? if so you should use this to zero out your machine when you have leveled and build plate is all the way down. Do not use the manual up and down arrows to compensate for the thickness of the Wham Bam FBSR, this would cause grinding as first the machine homes to the point where the optical switch is tripped physically then goes back up to the set z = 0 position after reaching the switch.
So i got my wham bam flexi package and the magnetic black pad doesnt fully adhear to the build plate is this a common issue
Hi Michael, please write to us at technical@whambamsystems.com, did you follow all the instructions? If the magnet is not fully adhered, there was most likely contaminants or resin on the build plate that prevented the bond,.