I was having issues with PLA randomly not sticking so I ended up here. I was only scuffing for 10 seconds which I now know is not nearly long enough to get good bite between the PEX and PLA. Thank you for the informative video. I've since scuffed the bed for the correct amount of time and it's working as advertised.
So happy to hear you got it resolved and this helped. Feel free to contact our technical support at any time just send an email to technical@whambamsystems.com
Thanks for this very thorough video about preparing my PEX plate! I got very nervous when the instructions told me to take my brand new bed and immediately take some steel wool to it. I feel much more comfortable with the process after watching the video. (also grateful for the mention that my artillery glass bed will need to be prepped prior to applying the magnet)
You are completely right. The 3mm-thin Creality heated bed is useless. It warps and changes its shape at different target temperatures. It's apparent when visualizing the warping effect with Klipper. I should have mounted the magnet on the upper plate instead.
@@iwillhackback It's ok. We learn these things over time. I learned the hard way on a printer I bought earlier. When hot, it forced the bed into a bowl shape. Painstakingly, I removed the print surface from the aluminum, and then all the glue. I bought a borosilicate glass plate, magnet on top, spring sheet onto that, PEI final surface.
If it’s really a big bow, you might want to try to remove the build plate and bend it slightly over your knee. If it’s not so big, you could try some aluminum foil with Kapton tape
Check first if your aluminum heated bed below (if glass is removable) is flat, if not use the glass, if the glass is permanently mounted, mount the magnet to this, just be sure it doesn't have the silkscreened painted texture on the glass, this inhibits magnet glue adhesion, best to use sand paper to scuff this up and alcohol to clean before installing.
I'm a bit confused about this. I was planning on removing the bed before applying this so I can make sure it's on a nice flat even surface. The only thing I couldn't figure out is if I had to punch holes in the magnet for the bed screws. You are installing it with the bed assembled and you cover up the bed screws. What if you need to do any kind of maintenance later? Obviously you can remove the whole plate by undoing the bed knobs/lock nuts/etc, but what if you want to swap out the screws for longer ones, for example?
I recommend adding backing nuts so the screws never rotate, I have never found reason to need access to the top of the screws, however if you ever do down the line, you can take an exact knife and cut out a small circle around the screw snd lift off the plug above it.
@@WhamBamSystems Thanks for the response. I have nylocs on now. Reason I ask is that I just went through this moving to silicone spacers, so I was curious. Good to know that cutting holes is okay if I have to.
@@TheLittleMike you are welcome, it’s easy to remove the plugs after as the countersunk screw housings can be felt under the magnet and you can easily trace them with an exacto should you need to go that route
@@WhamBamSystems Excellent. Thanks again. Hopefully I won't have to go that route, but it's good to know it shouldn't be a problem. I had recently ordered a new bed and sled, so I figured I'd assemble everything off the printer, and putting the screws in would make it harder to find a nice flat surface that would need to be taller than the screws so they don't push in, if that makes sense. I may just assemble the bed first and put the magnetic pad on after like you've done. I'm also installing linear rails and was just afraid it would slide around as I'm trying to apply the pad.
@@TheLittleMike applying the magnet while the bed is assembled isn’t very difficult, even with linear rails, as it only slips in one direction it’s easy to block the movement while installing. I usually push to far rear and install toward front
I know this video is kind of old but hoping my question still gets seen. If mounting to the underside of the glass plate do you still need to use sandpaper or is it fine to just clean and apply? I'm considering purchasing and the info would be nice. Alternatively, do you sell a complete kit I can just throw into my rig?
If the glass is plain glass with no print on it, just clean with alcohol and you are good to go! Most of our sales are complete kits of magnet, and Flexi plate and PEX build surface, you can mount the magnet to your heated aluminum bed directly as well.
Hi mate, I got my Wham Bam and all installed awesome product even for the video helped with all the levelling and adjustment of tracks. But I have a question what slicer do you use? I’m using a Creality CR-10 Pro V2 along with Creality Slicer 123 but I’m finding my prints still warp at 2-3mm heights with PLA at 70c hot plate so I turned up the plate to 75c but still warping. I have it set up in the house away from windows or drafts but no difference so I’m thinking of a different slicer program and or make a box to retain constant heat! Any suggestions? I won’t your secret to how you made the Wham Bam print look so perfect! Cheers Damo
Hello Damo, thanks! no, increasing bed temp wont help. was it a big part? what filament? did you scuff the PEX and clean well? Did you squish first layer? Send us an email to technical@whambamsystems.com with all details and photos and we can help you!
question: Do you have to go through all this? I have a cr10s pro V2. I hadn't seen anyone else go through all these steps. I just ordered a Wham Bam tonight. Thanks and great video.
@@WhamBamSystems thanks for the reply. I was more so talking about the nuts and washers part of the video. I didn’t see others having an issue with their cr10s pro V2s. I’ll definitely do it if it’s needed. Thanks for the reply
Scurt is OK. Thomas Sandanler trick widt a THIK 1. layer is a great way to compensate to a bit bowed headbed 0.4 nosle, with a 0.3mm LayerHight, and a Layerwith (LW) with 1mm! givs a great layer adhearsen to the bed
Also a great technique! With a warped bed one can print a thicker first layer, print on a raft (same thing but doesnt affect part), print an average first layer, or address the bed warp with aluminum shim stock or rebending bed.
Whambam marketing has done so well for it. I bought it based on all the "rave" reviews. I've already got some cheap Chinese made PEI sheets. Whambam sheet bubbled after the first ABS print (I didn't attach the sheet, it was a complete sheet + PEI "installed" purchase). It is also as thin as the cheapest Chinese sheets. Overall the worst build plate I own. Do not recommend
The accounting for Z height is entirely useless. You still need to set a new Z offset so, removing the bed to add something to raise the height is not necessary. Leave the bed attached! You have a great product but sometimes you shouldn’t do your own videos. 🤦🏻♂️ To anyone who is installing this on a CR10, you DO NOT need to remove the bed to add this to it. Just remove see the clamps.
I beg to differ if you are speaking of the springs, some Creality Machines shipped with weak springs and they would be even weaker if they were less compressed.
@@WhamBamSystems guess we’ll see how mine turns out. I’ve got a BL touch motor on my CR10-V3. I’ve only had to level it twice. Once when I got it and the second time a year later when it was too low on one side.
![NOSFERATU - Official Trailer [HD] - Only In Theaters December 25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nulvWqYUM8k/mqdefault.jpg)
I was having issues with PLA randomly not sticking so I ended up here. I was only scuffing for 10 seconds which I now know is not nearly long enough to get good bite between the PEX and PLA. Thank you for the informative video. I've since scuffed the bed for the correct amount of time and it's working as advertised.
So happy to hear you got it resolved and this helped. Feel free to contact our technical support at any time just send an email to technical@whambamsystems.com
Thanks for this very thorough video about preparing my PEX plate! I got very nervous when the instructions told me to take my brand new bed and immediately take some steel wool to it. I feel much more comfortable with the process after watching the video. (also grateful for the mention that my artillery glass bed will need to be prepped prior to applying the magnet)
Did mine just now and it came out perfect. Thanks for the help.
Super! Let us know if you need any other advice!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!! This was so much more helpful than you realize!
Heated beds warp. Especially over time. Magnet onto glass. Flexible onto magnet. Clip it all onto the heated bed.
You are completely right. The 3mm-thin Creality heated bed is useless. It warps and changes its shape at different target temperatures. It's apparent when visualizing the warping effect with Klipper. I should have mounted the magnet on the upper plate instead.
@@iwillhackback It's ok. We learn these things over time. I learned the hard way on a printer I bought earlier. When hot, it forced the bed into a bowl shape. Painstakingly, I removed the print surface from the aluminum, and then all the glue. I bought a borosilicate glass plate, magnet on top, spring sheet onto that, PEI final surface.
What would you do if your aluminium bed is not flat? Would you fill up the gaps with aluminium tape?
If it’s really a big bow, you might want to try to remove the build plate and bend it slightly over your knee. If it’s not so big, you could try some aluminum foil with Kapton tape
On the Ender 3 v2 I did have to move my end stop.
My printer has a glass build plate. Would you recommend your flexible build plate system still? And, if so, how would you go about adding it?
Check first if your aluminum heated bed below (if glass is removable) is flat, if not use the glass, if the glass is permanently mounted, mount the magnet to this, just be sure it doesn't have the silkscreened painted texture on the glass, this inhibits magnet glue adhesion, best to use sand paper to scuff this up and alcohol to clean before installing.
I'm a bit confused about this. I was planning on removing the bed before applying this so I can make sure it's on a nice flat even surface. The only thing I couldn't figure out is if I had to punch holes in the magnet for the bed screws. You are installing it with the bed assembled and you cover up the bed screws. What if you need to do any kind of maintenance later? Obviously you can remove the whole plate by undoing the bed knobs/lock nuts/etc, but what if you want to swap out the screws for longer ones, for example?
I recommend adding backing nuts so the screws never rotate, I have never found reason to need access to the top of the screws, however if you ever do down the line, you can take an exact knife and cut out a small circle around the screw snd lift off the plug above it.
@@WhamBamSystems Thanks for the response. I have nylocs on now. Reason I ask is that I just went through this moving to silicone spacers, so I was curious. Good to know that cutting holes is okay if I have to.
@@TheLittleMike you are welcome, it’s easy to remove the plugs after as the countersunk screw housings can be felt under the magnet and you can easily trace them with an exacto should you need to go that route
@@WhamBamSystems Excellent. Thanks again. Hopefully I won't have to go that route, but it's good to know it shouldn't be a problem. I had recently ordered a new bed and sled, so I figured I'd assemble everything off the printer, and putting the screws in would make it harder to find a nice flat surface that would need to be taller than the screws so they don't push in, if that makes sense. I may just assemble the bed first and put the magnetic pad on after like you've done. I'm also installing linear rails and was just afraid it would slide around as I'm trying to apply the pad.
@@TheLittleMike applying the magnet while the bed is assembled isn’t very difficult, even with linear rails, as it only slips in one direction it’s easy to block the movement while installing. I usually push to far rear and install toward front
I know this video is kind of old but hoping my question still gets seen. If mounting to the underside of the glass plate do you still need to use sandpaper or is it fine to just clean and apply? I'm considering purchasing and the info would be nice. Alternatively, do you sell a complete kit I can just throw into my rig?
If the glass is plain glass with no print on it, just clean with alcohol and you are good to go! Most of our sales are complete kits of magnet, and Flexi plate and PEX build surface, you can mount the magnet to your heated aluminum bed directly as well.
Is it possible to use acetone instead of alcohol for the cleaning?
its much more aggressive you can use periodically but use eyewear and gloves, do not get on magnet. I would suggest to stay with IPA if possible
Hi mate,
I got my Wham Bam and all installed awesome product even for the video helped with all the levelling and adjustment of tracks. But I have a question what slicer do you use? I’m using a Creality CR-10 Pro V2 along with Creality Slicer 123 but I’m finding my prints still warp at 2-3mm heights with PLA at 70c hot plate so I turned up the plate to 75c but still warping. I have it set up in the house away from windows or drafts but no difference so I’m thinking of a different slicer program and or make a box to retain constant heat! Any suggestions? I won’t your secret to how you made the Wham Bam print look so perfect!
Cheers
Damo
Hello Damo, thanks! no, increasing bed temp wont help. was it a big part? what filament? did you scuff the PEX and clean well? Did you squish first layer? Send us an email to technical@whambamsystems.com with all details and photos and we can help you!
What would recommend for a CR-6?
Doesn’t it have mesh bed leveling already?
question: Do you have to go through all this? I have a cr10s pro V2. I hadn't seen anyone else go through all these steps. I just ordered a Wham Bam tonight. Thanks and great video.
It’s really not so much I just took a long time to explain it clearly. Yes you should go through all the steps to ensure a permanent bond
@@WhamBamSystems thanks for the reply. I was more so talking about the nuts and washers part of the video. I didn’t see others having an issue with their cr10s pro V2s. I’ll definitely do it if it’s needed. Thanks for the reply
@@dailyDIYdude That part is optional you may not need to do it
@@WhamBamSystems thanks
How is this almost an hour long?
How is the installation for the cr6 max? Is it only to do the autoleveling as usual?
It is the same installation and yes, usual auto bed level will level it, we have and use one daily with our system
Scurt is OK.
Thomas Sandanler trick widt a THIK 1. layer is a great way to compensate to a bit bowed headbed
0.4 nosle, with a 0.3mm LayerHight, and a Layerwith (LW) with 1mm! givs a great layer adhearsen to the bed
Also a great technique! With a warped bed one can print a thicker first layer, print on a raft (same thing but doesnt affect part), print an average first layer, or address the bed warp with aluminum shim stock or rebending bed.
Did i just watch an 48 minute Video on how to apply an Flexplate ? Yes Do i have enough money to actually buy it ? No Will i watch again Probably
Wham bam is currently having its 3rd anniversary sale, so until July 5 you can get one with a 20% discount!
@@WhamBamSystems thanks for the heads up I just bought mine for my MP mini delta!
Whambam marketing has done so well for it. I bought it based on all the "rave" reviews. I've already got some cheap Chinese made PEI sheets. Whambam sheet bubbled after the first ABS print (I didn't attach the sheet, it was a complete sheet + PEI "installed" purchase). It is also as thin as the cheapest Chinese sheets. Overall the worst build plate I own. Do not recommend
The accounting for Z height is entirely useless. You still need to set a new Z offset so, removing the bed to add something to raise the height is not necessary. Leave the bed attached!
You have a great product but sometimes you shouldn’t do your own videos. 🤦🏻♂️
To anyone who is installing this on a CR10, you DO NOT need to remove the bed to add this to it. Just remove see the clamps.
I beg to differ if you are speaking of the springs, some Creality Machines shipped with weak springs and they would be even weaker if they were less compressed.
@@WhamBamSystems guess we’ll see how mine turns out. I’ve got a BL touch motor on my CR10-V3. I’ve only had to level it twice. Once when I got it and the second time a year later when it was too low on one side.
Has anybody not waited the 72 hours and had problems?
Yes!