Z Limit Adjustment - Detailed Explanation For Resin Printers
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- A deep dive into adjusting the z height on your resin printer when installing the Wham Bam Systems Flexible Build System for Resin, in the original version or XTR. We cover why you might need to adjust your Z limit switch, how to find the Z limit switch and interceptor arm, where to find STLs of spacers and arms, how to install them, and even what to do if you skipped this step and already installed it on your only machine.
0.05 Introduction - why do I need to adjust the Z limit?
1:37 How to find and identify your Z limit switch
2:24 How the Z limit switch works
3:08 Where to find Z spacer files
4:28 Different types of spacers and extension arms
6:04 Bottom-mounted interceptor arm - example: Saturn 2
9:08 Bottom-mounted interceptor arm - example: Mars 3 Pro
11:25 Side-mounted interceptor arm - example: Sonic Mini 4K
12:27 Interceptor arm extender also for built-in interceptor arms- example: Jupiter
13:24 What to do if you already mounted your Wham Bam before printing the spacer
15:11 Conclusion
The support page with written instructions and spacer info can be found on our website:
www.whambamsys...
For complete installation and calibration please follow our video below:
• Installation of the Fl...
Learn more about our Flexible Build Systems for Resin:
www.whambamsys...
To learn the difference between our FBSR and XTR versions and learn which is right for you, watch this video: • FBSR and XTR Comparison
If you have already installed our system on your machine before printing the spacer, and do not have a second machine you can do one of two things:
1: Unscrew the interceptor arm and put some washers between it and the build head (3mms for FBSR, and 4mms for XTR kits) then re-level.
You can now print the spacer and substitute it.
2: Add some tape to the bottom of the interceptor arm to lengthen it and trip the optical switch earlier, it only needs to extend it a bit (3mms for FBSR, and 4mms for XTR kits) then re-level.
You can now print the spacer and substitute it.
Best resin leveling procedure:
• Remove vat
• Make sure your Wham Bam Flexi Plate and Magnet are mounted to the build plate
• Loosen all screws around the build plate for leveling
• Make sure the build plate moves freely
• Put down 2-4 sheets of paper on the screen
• Hit the home button on your machine control
• When the build plate lowers to the bottommost position, tighten all leveling screws one at a time, being careful not to tilt the bed while tightening the screws, since the direction of the Allen Key can influence tilt.
• Hit home again, as it lifts up remove all sheets of paper except 1 sheet of paper, so it lowers onto just one
• Test pulling and pushing paper under all areas of the build plate, you want to feel even resistance yet the paper can move.
*If your printer is making noise when homing, then the level was not done properly, please relevel!
**Please do not use the UI functions to adjust the home position, just use leveling screws.
Do not use 'set z=0'
Do not use 'set z=0’,
If you have already, then do repeat the z=0 once properly homed.
Want to see more detailed product videos like this? Let us know what we should do next in the comments!
Feel free to write to us for product support at: technical@whambamsystems.com
Where to find us online:
www.WhamBamSys...
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Modifying my Mars 3 right now. Thanks for the amazing and concise explantion that should work for any model.
Hello! Is a spacer needed for the saturn 3 ultra? The plate does have the 4 screw adjustable hight unlike the saturn 2
Yes it does, and why it doesn't say this on their product pages, I'll never know🤦♂... Great product but it's missing a critical plastic spacer, It's like $0.0001 worth of plastic but they don't include it lol
Does anything need to be done with the Saturn 4 Ultra?
I appreciate how comprehensive your video is. I have the MARS4 and I struggling with find how or where a space can be placed considering the intercepter arm has a different configuration. Any suggestions?
Duh, I needed to be patient because you explained it later. Now I have to figure out how to improvise that arm since I’ve already hooked up the flex plate to the build plate. Thanks again for your post and for your help.
How do you know if you have purchased the original or XTR? Just bought the plate for my Saturn 3 Ultra.
XTR has a thick magnet 3mms and says XTR, it looks like from your order you purchased the non XTR - FBSR
thanks
@WhamBamSystems copy. Thank you for the reply. Out of curiosity can't I just change the Z=0 level and skip adding the spacer? Why is it even neccessary?
Hey guys thanks for the video
, any help with an elegoo saturn ultra 4?
yes! please see this link: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/saturn-4-ultra-z-limit-flash-for-wham-bam-xtr
has instructions, for more feel free to contact us at tech.director@whambamsystems.com
I would love to buy wham bam products but they are virtually impossible to get in the UK, reseller never has stock or is so limited it’s of no use if you don’t have ,one of the 3 printers they support. 😢
You can also buy direct from our website, or from a wide variety of distributors in E.U., ask 3D PrintzUK for the products you want so they can order them!
Excellent video Peter ! Happy Extruding !!!
Thank you kindly sir!
I’m starting to lose hope with the XTR flexplate on my Saturn 3 Ultra. I tried leveling 5 times already, but could never print anything.
It’s either to low and the printer starts clicking when homing (although it didn’t when leveling), or too high and the print doesn’t stick to the XTR plate.
I tried the method described in the description, as well as many others, but it just does not work (and yes, I did install the correct spacer).
Sadly, I’m considering removing the magnet to get my printer back to printing..
Also, the set Z=0 function on the Saturn 3 seems not to function correctly (I know we shouldn’t use that, but I had to try too)
Hello, very sorry for your issues and your frustration. I can confirm that the XTR plate works very well on the Saturn 3 Ultra, let us help you to fix the issues. Please do send us an email so we can give you one-on-one support! technical@whambamsystems.com do send screen shots of your slicer, and let us know what is not printing? nothing sticks to the Flexi Plate, or prints are partially printed? also include screen shots of your models, photos of failures if possible. thanks!
if you have no adhesion what so ever, you can increase base layer exposure up to 50s, or sand one side of your Flexi Plate with 400 grit wet dry sand paper and clean well with IPA and fresh paper towel. Also make sure lift distances are 7mms or higher and initial lift speed are 70mm/min or lower. Thanks!
The support link gives 404 error.
thank you, it should now be updated!
Struggling for some help. I’m a newb and have the MARS4 DLP and When in print mode the arm/build plate moves to the top of the lift screw and the build plate and arm stays about 500mm above the resin reservoir and slightly moves up and down as though it is in print mode and in the resin tray. As a result, the print bases gets imprinted on the FEP. The aforementioned happened after I took the interceptor arm to add the extender off by taking it off the lift screw. Thanks !
Did you use this distancer ? cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/mars-4-dlp-z-limit-extender-for-wham-bam-fbsr
I’m confused by the description, it says do not use set z=0 but in your FBS for Resin video you set “z=0”. Could you clarify if/when z=0 should be done please?
Okay I think I get it. You set z to 0 in that video because you homed, then incremented the height manually instead of adjusting the leveling screws. So I don’t need to set z to 0 if I’m using the leveling method in this description
It’s best not to, unless you have already used the feature, then you have to reset it by hitting z=0 once machine is homed.
Z=0 function is fine for telling the machine where to stop upon homing, the problem is that the machine will always home first to where the z limit switch is tripped then move to set home. if your home needs to be far above the bed, then the machine will send the build plate down against the screen while trying to trip the z limit switch before it ever gets to your set zero.
I hope this helps!
@@WhamBamSystems So just want to understand what is happening here, out of the box the home will travel until the arm reaches trips the switch and I suppose the first layer will print according to that method as well. If I never set z to 0, this will always be true. Once I set z to 0, there is a logical point set that the printer will use to print that first layer? So if I level with the screws I should never need to set that logical z to 0.
Just wondering why many other videos, like the official saturn 3 ultra video from Elegoo say to set z to 0 once the leveling is done, when it doesn't really make a difference?
@@smokymcmenziez you can use the function after leveling is done manually without using the machine interface to raise the Z. This will ensure that it clears out any previous Z equals zero settings.
I now should add that to access the interceptor arm, I had to pull the entire piece off the lift screw. When I place the parts back on the lift screw, did my Z-zero all went well. BUT when I starting print, the build arm went into the resevoir like it was going to print, then lifted up to about 500mm above the reservoir and stayed in the position OUT of the reservoir and did motions that appeared like it “thought” t was printing but stayed well above the reservoir. Make sense? Thanks!
It doesn’t make sense I’m sorry, can you please write an email to Technical@WhamBamSystems.com and we will try to help. another thing you could do first is re-level the bed and when it’s at its full down position hit Z = zero. Then tighten the screws and test again.
On something like a Saturn with springs and a FBP, can a nut be used instead? If so, will a varied height be okay? eg: The nut height is 24mm.
2-3 mms is fine
I don't understand why it matters if it compresses the spring more. It doesn't do anything when the plate is locked down.
It makes it much harder to set the gap, sometimes impossible, if the compression won’t let you lightly press on the paper. If you want to try an Elegoo without spacer consider leveling on multiple sheets of paper 3-5, then removing all but one to verify in the end
my XTR did not come with screws, I needed 10mm for the anycubic m3 max.
Sorry to hear that, you needed M3 x 10 mm long for the M3 Max?
In my case, I have a saturn 3 ultra and I installed a 2.6mm spacer. But I have an issue, when the build plate goes up to the top end, it goes 2.6mm more and pushes the top cover plate and it bent and lifted with bad cracking sound. Any solution for this?
Try to define in slicer Z height of printer and remove 2.6 from current total, feel free to write us at tech.director@whambamsystems.com for further help
@@WhamBamSystems is this something i need to watch out for on my saturn 3? i just installed the spacer and build plate...but..i have never taken it up to the very top.