FlexPlate System For Resin 3D Printers?! Install And First Look On Elegoo Mars
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- 15% Percent off WhamBam products for the month of February! :)
whambam3d.com/...
Love the channel? Consider supporting me on Patreon:
www.patreon.co...
In this video, we take a look at the brand new flexplate system from Wham Bam. This flexplate system is for resin printers and is a complete game-changer for part removal and workflow. In this video, we will take a look at what comes with the resin flexplate system, how to install it, and what my experience has been like using it on my Elegoo Mars.
Find out more or purchase your Wham Bam Resin Flexplate System here:
bit.ly/2DTSUel
(´∀｀)♡ As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases:
Buy now on Amazon: amzn.to/2jQAOgV
Subscribe To My 3d Printing Blog! :
Lets Get Social!
Facebook: / dopesoner930
Twitter: / dopesoner930
Instagram: / modbotarmy
Twitch: / dopesoner930
Music provided by Argofox:
DOCTOR VOX - Frontier
• DOCTOR VOX - Frontier ...
15% Percent off WhamBam products for the month of February! :)
whambam3d.com/discount/BV72BGRKWYMY
Wham Bam gave me a discount code for anyone interested in preordering. Use code "ModBotResin" for:
20% off from August 11th through the 17th
15% off from August 18th through the 25th
Discount code suckered me into getting one.
I Buy one of these cause it seemed a good Idea.... Guys its Just HORRIBLE. I Put ist in the Trash. Not worth
PRINT AND INSTALL THE HOME-SPACER FIRST!!!!! - If you only have 1 printer and install a flex plate before printing out a spacer, you're kinda screwed - speaking from experience here! It's important people understand that Home and Z=0 are NOT the same thing. The printer will always go to Home first, before moving on to Z=0 because it expects Home to be above Z=0 - so if you don't have a Home spacer installed, the printer will try and drive your build-plate through your screen even if you have re-calibrated it. Cue lots of angry grinding/clicking noises.
Yup. Made exactly that mistake. Needed to remove the magnetplate. So i need to buy another one. I recommend to look for a store who informs about the thickness of the flexplate+magnetbase. So no need to measure it.
Thank you so much for this tip, I was able to get a neighbor to get a space printed by my neighbor so the first thing I could do on my new printer was install a flex plate.
Thank you - I am very excited to try this...removing prints and scratching up my build plate is one of my biggest irritations!
If you look at my build plate in the beginning you can see that I am not stranger to this. I have scuffed the crap out of my poor Elegoo trying to remove prints.
I just slipped and took a chunk out of my build plate so here i am
I added this to my mars 3 before i printed anything and printed the spacer on my longer 5 pro. still left it 24 hours to let the adhesive full time to cure. Boy is the magnet strong , have to be careful i don't trap my fingertips putting it on. great vid keep up the good work
You know, if you forget to print a spacer first, you could just fabricate a temp spacer from cardboard, plastic, wood - things like that. A folded-folded-folded bit of duct tape even. Trim it to size, drill a couple of holes - you get the idea.
Nicely done man!!
Thanks man I appreciate it 👍🙏
Looks like a worthwhile upgrade. Don't forget to modify your slicing software to account for the height loss.
That is a great point. I am not sure I have ever gone max height other than for testing but I am sure some do. Thank you for this!
@@ModBotArmy the elegoo mars is set up so you lose about 20mm of build space because of the mounting nut on the build plate you can just make a spacer for the glass of 2.5mm or more and you'll be fine or you could make a 20mm spacer and edit the firmware to add 17mm to get max build height
I'm glad I found your channel...I like your work! I just installed a Wham Bam Print Surface on my CR-10S....love it!
Welcome aboard! I appreciate the feedback. That print surface is great!
This is a game changer!!
Very nice review Daniel. Accurate and informative. Thanks !!
I bought 2 sets off amazon diferent brand £15 money well spent 1 month on they working great
So glad to see that some one has done this and thank you for the review. Also why not clean and cure the part on the flex plate and only remove the part once its cured so there is little chance of messing up the soft print ? Also have you seen the videos on curing the parts in liquid ? It seems the resins cure better when not exposed to air so they say cure the parts when submerged in water or IPA. I have not tried this so have no idea if it good or bad.
you can clean either way, on build plate ( my preferred for parts with delicate details) or pop off into cleaner directly
Cool video , shows exactly what it is and how it works 👍I ordered one last week for my LD002r!
Awesome you are going to love it
I preordered one 5 days ago. I can’t wait to get it.
Let me know how you like it once you get up and running with it!
Great idear WhamBam!!
Thanks for sharing :-)
Glad you liked it!
Super video, thank you very informative and very thorough. I continue to always appreciate the content you provide
I appreciate that. :)
This is awesome, I'm extremely tempted! I did notice that your plate is smoothed out - does the build plate have to be completely smooth for the Whambam to be applied well? My plate is still the anodized texture.
Hello Rena, our 3M is very agressive and should stick to all metal and painted surfaces even with texture. just make sure you clean well, then wait 24-72 hours for 3M to cure after applying
As allways great info, real usefull.
Thank you very much :)
im curious of the effects of resin caught between the magnet and the plate and the life expectency of the strength of the magnet
Only time will tell ;) I bought the knockoff from aliexpress two packs for £27. Mine has 3m "300 LSE" adhesive.. which is "highly resistant to solvents"... At that price I'm happy so far. Edit: All good! Works great.
@@Mr_Gadge how long did the shipping take? I was just looking at those as well but the shipping is only guaranteed by next February...
@@christianpoynter7971 took 10 days. The seller is really good at replies and check your shipping options. I’ve over 300 orders this year from AliExpress. Only the really cheap items have taken over two weeks to UK. I think US suffers more delays.
Immediately purchased a plate for my elegoo Mars pro 2. Only had the printer for a couple of days but prints are extremely difficult to get off the stock plate. Fingers crossed this will help!
Did it help? Did you have to just ajust a new z=0?
TNX !
this helped a lot! Thanks man :)
Awesome! Happy to hear.
Great video. If it should be necessary to remove the magnet from the build plate, is there a solvent that will work?
Ok I’m’ getting one now - nice vid !
I might get one for TH72 resin. It really stick to the plate and has super stringent tolerance. So sometimes I gotta really use force on the plate. But seeing this if I can just pull off a magnet and bend into my cleaning machine I won't have to worry about accidentally messing up my level.
yeah i gotta say flex plates for resin printers are definitely the way to go, there's nothing like testing printing your first model, not being able to scrape it off with plastic scraper, and then using your FDM metal scraper and scratching the build plate on the first print and thing you've ruined your machine
yeah I'm fairly new to resin printing
My exact experience
I just start using this, but my bottom layer is overexposed and suffered heavy elephant foot. Also the bottom layer details are so bad, but if i reduce the layer time to same like top layer im afraid of model falling off not sticking to the plate, what should i do?
Awesome video
Thank you 🙏
Question, can place the entire build plate in the alcohol to clean both the part and the build plate unit? My thinking is that the alcohol will kill the adhesive of the magnet.
Your video got me tempted and the discount code was icing on the cake, $27 for a nice mod seems ok then I got to shipping: $20?? That's gonna be a no from me dog.
I've ordered plenty of Chinese junk and shipping has never even gotten close to $20 unless it was huge/heavy.
Hmm may we worth reaching out to Wham Bam to see if there is an issue. I am not sure if you are based in the US but if you are that may be incorrect.
@@ModBotArmy For pre-orders we are shipping directly from factory to get parts to users in quickest time. We will have some stock available in the USA in about 6-8 weeks if you prefer to wait. We do not use China post as this can take 20-30 days, and parts are frequently permanently lost with bad tracking and nothing you can do about it. We are using major carriers like FEDEX, UPS, and DHL with good tracking and accountability and usually 5 or less days of shipping! We do not upcharge on shipping and usually take a small loss. The issue is there is a minimum 1kg package rate so sometimes you can get 3-4 kits into the shipment with same shipping rate. I hope this explanation helps!
Hmm so no more huge supports needed? Build from the plate like pla printers?
Yes so it does not get rid of the need for supports but it does allow you to print things in an orientation that may have required more supports before. Someone gave the example of bases for miniatures. They would normally be printed at an angle but with this setup you can print them flat without supports.
My elegoo Mars pro seems to adjust vertically when you level it, is that something they added to the pro? Do I really have to add a spacer for the elegoo Mars pro?
10:08 what model is that?
Hi, you say cleaning agent, I assume we're not talking ipa?
I have the some issues with my Mars and Saturn now that i use FlexPlates. They are quite nice but since them almost all prints fail an get stuck on the FEP early or late in the print. I clean my Resintank with window cleaner instead of Iso. Iso washes out the transparency, window cleaner does not. After that i wipe it clean with paper towels and polish with a microfibercloth. I sanded them with sandpaper and raised the bottom exposure time from 60 to 75 and it initially worked. Now, almost all fall off early or late in the print on both Mars and Saturn. I cleaned the tanks with iso and raise the lifting speed. So, nothing sticks anymore. Removed the FlexPlate, releveled the plate, cleaned the vat with Iso, nothing. Cleaned the vat again, releveled again, apllied some silcone grease... nothing! Replaced the FEP an the Saturn, prints stick on the FEP after the base, on the Mars it won’t print at all anymore. I don’t know what to do anymore. Before i installed the plates, it worked fine. I bought these because some bigger prints had a lot of difficulty getting of the printing plate. And now, even when they are off no printer will print anymore.
Hi, which PRO & CON may you tell us?
Really helpful video for a noob like me. I got my first 3d printer, an elegoo mars 3 Pro. Already attached the also new wham bam plate to it. So how do I do leveling, if I can't print the little thingy yet?
hello, nice video man ! When you print big parts, do you also, like me, have the metal plate not sticking with enough force to stay flat on the build plate due to weight and suction, causing one of the sides to detach and leading to deformations?
Is there some reason that you couldn’t just set the home 2.5mm higher without printing that spacer? What if you forget to print out the spacer until after you install the flex plate? For people with only one printer that is
This is probably too late, but I just fitted one and found that regardless of where you set the home, the printer will try and 0 to the actual end-stop switch, before moving to the home point set. Not printing a spacer (as I didn't) will just cause it to try to ram the print bed 2.5mm into the screen before it moves to the point set. Lesson learnt by me.
Luckily the plate is spring-loaded to the part where you attach it to the printer. Mine had enough give in it to accommodate a couple of mm, but I'll definitely be printing the spacer to take the load off the spring.
Do you think you'd use the same base layer settings with this product?
what is the model called that a small moon with a city carved in it?
is there a way to get the spacer if you've already installed the flex plate and are unable to print?
Have you ever installed one on the Elegoo Saturn? I got one and I’m not sure where to place it
What did you use inside the wash&cure? Some of degreaser?
This is a big deal for printing bases for miniatures. Its well known that printing bases at an angle leads to warping along the lower lip.
Seriously, I have damaged or at least chipped off quite a few when attempting to print flat.
any printable spacer out there for the QIDI S-Box with the flex build plate installed?
Can someone tell me what screws I need to buy? My elegoo Mars screws are too short
Something that hasn't been mentioned about these solutions is the reduction of z direction build volume. For fdm, the thin flexplates and the massive volume make the reduction negligible. Here, with small resin build volumes and the huge magenet, that reduction is significant
Hello, We feel the loss of build volume to be almost insignificant, our system total height is 2.6mm = 0.102" much under 1/8 inch. Even on a small machine, say an elegoo mars you have a 155 height, this would take it to 152.4
@@WhamBamSystems wow i wasnt expecting a response from whambam themselves. My apologies, i had heard the system was 2cm tall instead of 2mm.
@@scrmnthn5233 no worries, decimal points change everything! let us know if you need any other info!
I have 2 of them, one works perfectly the other just keeps sliding and damaging my prints, how do I fix it as i have tried:
slowing lifting speed
less models on the print bed
lower exposure
re levelling the plate
its so annoying as it keeps shifting.
I don't quite understand why the spacer is needed.
Hello, I have been using the plate for a while now, recently it slipped a few mm during printing, after the beginning was good approx. After the 5th shift. What's the mistake? Can you help me?
You fail to mention that the screws where the spacer goes are not long enough on the machine, nor what size they are. Now I have a machine that has a build plate that I cannot use.
I used the same screws that came with the machine. No issues reinstalling them with the spacer.
@@ModBotArmy Thanks for a speedy reply. The screws in my Elegoo Mars Pro are not quite the same as those in your video. Yours are certainly longer. When I put the spacer behind the Z-stop, and put the screw back through it, there is only 11/2-2 threads sticking out, not enough to even grab inside the threads. I checked with Wham Bam, who were great and answered quickly too, they said the screw need there is an M3 8mm screw. My screws are not that long. I have ordered some M3 8mm screws and hope they work in the thread.
I appreciate that you took the time to respond back.
Same issue. Thank you for this response.
i just wish they did them for the Phrozen transform :(
Please, if we get enough requests we will make one! fill out the form on our website or use this link and tell the community to do the same, we only need 20 requests.
I had this video on my side monitor while looking up STL's and I can't tell you how many times my brain was expecting you to say "Thank you Ma'am" and getting super disappointed each time
Great idea, wow that price though. Really over priced for what you get. I understand trying to get it while you can.
I suppose it depends on how you look at it. Flexplates for FDM printers are even more expensive for large ones but to me the convenience and ease of use they provide is worth the added cost.
Amazing video like always, but there is better way to apply this magnetic sheet on build plate to make sure there's no resin leak between this two especially this is a resin printer not a fdm so there is alot of liquid 😁
can't you download the Elegoo Mars WB Spacer file from Thingiverse and print the spacer solid on your resin printer? for such a simple part that does not need much strength i'd think resin would be ok?
Absolutely! My elegoo was clean at the time so I just didn’t want to have to drain to install but that would work fine 😬
@@ModBotArmy thanks!
a electro-magnet you can turn off and on would be a easier way to remove the plate I would think, but would require them to design the head to hold it with a off/on switch
Wham Bam recommend leaving it 72 hours to adhere not over night.
HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM... No longer needing to take my build plate off when I'm done a print, you say?
Additional mess at the expense of usability, seems to be worth it.
I have Wham Bam resin flex plate for one month and its already cracking and make magnet side uneven. I do not recommend this for resin printers. And Wham Ban is not responding to my email to solve this issue....
Care to elaborate? What’s cracking exactly? And do you mean the adhesive is failing, causing the magnet to sag and become uneven?
@@cwill2127 The magnet it self cracking, adhesive is fine. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1S6Cy4QWQx0Vti473wWV1LrePkHELLp37?usp=sharing
if you print MULTIPLE smaller figures flex plates(doesn't matter brand) are god awful, they don't come off and it's just another way to stab yourself. I've put 3 of these on my printers and I'm at the point of taking them off as they do not do anything beneficial, they now require 2 gloves to use rather than 1, nothing pops off. It's just another piece to align and screw with. The one nice thing is you can throw the plate in acetone and have your parts cleaned and come out together without needing to use a basket etc and worrying about them colliding.
This is coming from running a 3d printing business.
Should mention Wham Flex for FFF are my lifeblood for not losing my mind, waiting on a replacement one for the Tronxy X5SA...I was kneeling on the build surface trying to get a PLA+ print off
Il give it a fortnight before China has this copied and on sale on AliExpress.
Unfortunately probable. But they will never have the quality or performance
Do you know Elegoo is a Chinese brand?
to me this is a novelty, too much to do about...i'd rather buy a new plate for $22 and not worry about the resin build up- this hobby is messy enough.
Great Video! You touched on the bane of FLEX-PLATES for my Experience.
👉Case-1: 2yrs ago I installed a FLEX-PLATE on a AnyCubic Photon Mono SE. A guy I knew had the exact same setup as me & he informed me the Spacer/Shim or whatever wasn’t needed. And he walked me thru the process & it worked perfectly for 18 months. 6 month ago I needed to Re-Level the machine & FORGOT the Level Technique given to me🤦🏻 & I can’t find the guy….ohh & the regular None- Flex-Plate Level Methods won’t work. (GRIND’s)
👉Case-2: I just purchased a SATURN S & Attached the
FLEX-PLATE & watched a few Videos & they ALL MENTIONED using a SPACER/SHIM .
👉Question A: any idea what that Leveling Technique Was that leveled the AnyCubic Machine WITHOUT a Shim/Spacer was?
👉Question B: Have you heard any Technique for Leveling with a FLEX-PLATE without a Spacer/Shim.
👉Again I luv your video & it’s the 1st I’ve viewed where this topic is discussed!!!
🙏🙏SO MUCH THANKS🙏 🙏
For that & I will defer to your site in the future💯💯💯
🙏Anyone that can offer help on either of my questions I REALLY APPRECIATE ANY HELP🙏
Lee