Oh man that surface texture looks great. Also agree with you on the smooth / mirror like finish vs a little bit of texture for the under print. Great video!
Moved to smooth PEI on spring steel on my Ender 3 about two years ago. Love the ease of removal and it's my daily driver for PLA. I also have a Creality branded glass build surface that has whatever textured coating they use. Waiting for the glass to cool down to remove the print is kind of drag but I really like the textured finish it leaves on my print. Think I'll give the textured Wham Bam surface a try and see if I can get the best of both. Good content as always.
Thanks Dale! I will say that other than the PEI I have been using I really do like the black diamond glass or UltraBase build surface that you are describing. My biggest issue is depending on the materials I am using sometimes the adhesive can be too good and real pain for removal. Granted I would rather have this than not stuck but I do love the ability to flex part and be printing again right away. If you try the coated please let me know what you think.
I'm sold. Just ordered the powered coated sheet for my ender3 pro. I love all the WhamBam systems and have been using the PEI and now I'm using a black spring steel sheet now with the reversible powdered coated bed but its not a wham Bam system. I still like the finish but now that I know Wham has a system like that I'm completely sold. Thanks a million for this vid.
Totally! I am not sure when they released this. I have seen a few others using it which makes me think it may not be brand new but last time I looked it was not available which was maybe 6ish months ago. Thanks for watching and I hope you love your new bed.
lol you are not the first person to say this. I feel that it is low enough that I don't understand it. I have had it for so long I just like it. Do you feel it is just too loud? Thanks for watching :)
@@ModBotArmy Yes, it's a bit loud. Maybe shrill is a better word? I guess I find it jarring when I'm trying to follow along with what your saying. It pulls me away from the intro.
@@ModBotArmy It bothered me too when I first found your channel. Now I just kind of expect it. I still dont love it, and I know this is strange to say, but I might miss it if it was gone haha I would at very least wonder where it went for a half dozen or so videos.
@@jon9947 haha I am going to bump it down a few decibels for my next video then to see if it helps. I like having it but also do not want to try to be accomodating and if this is a universal feeling I can definitely scale it back a bit. I agree with you though at this point I feel like it is part of the video. Let me know in the next video if bumping it down a few helps :)
Ha 6 months into 3d printing - Blue tape - check (not bad), polyimide sheets - check (wears out too fast), magigoo - check (works great, but builds residue), glue stick - check (sticks too well) hairspray - check (works well, but like magigoo, builds up gunk on print) I just bought my first PEI plate last week. Have not yet tried it. My ender 5 Pro with glass has been great. But my Ender 3 v2 has been a nightmare since day one. I ended up buying a new hot bed and glass top and , so far, it's actually working. Since day one, the E 3v2 has been horrible at staying level, and bed adhesion. Pretty sure the stock bed was warped badly, because the Ender 5 Pro sitting right next to it never had issues staying level or issues with prints sticking, without the use of anything other than a clean bed. Definitely appreciate this and your other vids!! Really been helpful! Thank You!
Nice to know that I’m not the only one having nightmare issues with the Ender 3 v2 bed levelling. Mine started with replacing my springs, started with yellow springs then changed to silicon. Now my problem is with the glass, Im planning to switch to Pei with spring steel
Oh wow! Have you had to replace the sheet ever? My experience with PEX is that it is really a tough material and with proper cleaning it lasts a very long time.
Out of curiosity what are the parts you print that need to be smooth? Just wondering if it is for the aesthetic you are going for or perhaps it is tolerance related.
@@ModBotArmy purely for the looks is what I'm after. One of the projects that springs to mind is the battery cover for a traffic control reader board type trailer. It's similar looking to the Wanco vertical mast reader boards. I'll have videos of the project on my channel within a few weeks, HOPEFULLY......Providing the project's assembly goes smoothly.
@@pnwRC. I don't think the mirror finish looks bad, it's just the fact that it looks so different from the other sides. That's what I personally am not a fan of, I'm a huge fan of the nice soft and smooth texture that PEI creates.
Recently moved from glass with masking tape to a textured PEI sheet and the difference is incredible parts that would of taken several attempts to print before are now working constantly
Wow I can't get over how SOOOO much better that new build plate is. I have not had a single issue while using it. Man I'm so glad you found this and turned us on to it.
Ah ya its official. I now have my default flexible wham bam bed. This new bed is by FAR the best of the bunch. I'm doing very detailed bed adhere printing with no issues in fact I've not seen a better output. Thanks for turning me onto this man. I just became a Patreon
Great overview. Actually im team of both :), im using them based on material i need, for example PETG is easier for me to remove from texture. Also it depends from print if i need smooth surface or not. But overall for me was easier to adjust Z height on texture sheet than on smooth one, probably because there is bigger tolerance.
Thanks for watching! I have printed quite a bit of PET-G on the smooth and haven't had many issues but I can definitely see a part being able to bond with the smooth since it is a sheet that could be annoying or even damage the sheet. That was one of my issues with standard BuildTak PET-G would bond to it and damage the build surface. I am team both as well (I think) haha we will see when I have put some more mileage on this textured.
I would say that it depends upon the project. Sometimes you don’t have a choice, but when you do it’s nice that you can choose. I’ve been using the Wham Bam system on my Mars printers, and it has made it so much easier to remove prints, that I won’t ever use a printer that doesn’t have a flexible built plate. The build surface on my Snapmaker 2.0 A350 is double-sided as well, and I freaking luv it. Since I now need to print nylon, carbon fiber, and other high-temp materials, I ordered an Ender 5 Plus yesterday. I spent a week researching options for highly accurate and repeatable printers with a large build volume, that I could upgrade for high temperature printing. I found all of the parts that I needed for the upgrades, some of which had only become available within the past 6 months, so I should have it fully up within a month. I decided to go with the Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for the Ender 5, with a Mosquito hot-end, the linear rail adapters from PrinterMods, and flexible Wham Bam build plate specifically designed from the Ender 5 Plus. Just waiting on some clarification from PrinterMods on their adapter system. Have an AWESOME weekend!
Oh man the flexplate on the resin printers is awesome. I have it on the Mars and Phenom and I do not miss removing stuck resin prints. I almost think that is worse than the FDM since the resin can make it more slippery (sketchy). I really want to take a look into the SnapMaker 2. Did the double sided sheet come standard or did you have to add that? Wow that sounds like a badass Ender 5 Plus. Are you planning on enclosing it as well? I would love to see photos or videos of this build when you have made some progress on this. Looking forward to hearing how it goes. The parts you are choosing sounds great. Weekend was nice! Finally celebrated Christmas with the parents (how to postpone because of Covid scare) I hope you had a great weekend as well.
@@ModBotArmy the double-sided build plate comes standard on all Snapmakers, and I bought a 2nd one in case I screwed up the first one. PLA sticks a little too well to it, until it's seasoned. I've been using the Elmers Purple glue sticks (dries clear), which works great so far. Used it with PETG too, and no issues. As for the Ender 5 Plus, yes I plan on enclosing it with plexi/acrylic, similar to what Teaching Tech did, but I have different plans for the top and bottom that still need to be fleshed out. I'll try to document as much as I can, so we'll see. Ideally I'd like to be able to heat the chamber up to somewhere in the 120-150°C range, as the Wham Bam can work up to 150°C, but I'll probably do it in steps, staring with like 60-80°C, as anything higher requires liquid cooling, and I may need to double pane the sides. Yeah, Covid is making everything difficult. I've have to push back some projects that I've been planning by as much as a year, due to supply issues. Hopefully things will start to get better around April or May. Take it easy, be safe!
I have printed on glass almost exclusively. But its the textured glass that creality has. Just ordered a double sided PEI bed for the voron 2.4 im building. One side smooth and the other textured.
Great video, might have to check this out. It depends on what I am printing as to if I want texture of smooth, which is one of the many reasons ultrabase has been my preferred build surface for a bit. Can just flip it over and have smooth.
Interesting, did you buy the ultrabase or is it just the one on your anycubic machine? I have primarily used them on the JG-Aurora and the printers from Artillery but I feel it is quite a bit of work to flip over. If you had them just clipped on I could see flipping over being quite easy. TBH I had no idea the underside was smooth. From someone that does love the ultrabase I totally think it is worth at least exploring.
@@ModBotArmy Both, I have a Mega S and a few other various machines. I have never tried to flip the one on my Anycubic machine as it is glued down, but the others I have. My Tronxy D01 came with ultrabase then I have bought it for a few of my Creality machines, and they all just use clips to attach, so flipping it is super easy. When I am using the smooth side I just use glue stick like I would with normal glass, and when I want the ultrabase side I just wash off the glue with warm water and flip it over.
I use the TH3D textured PEI plate and I love the uniform texture. There are instances where I want a smooth surface for mated parts or whatever, but I find myself using the textured plate the most.
3 года назад+1
Can you please tell me what bed temperature you used for that giant orange cube to stick down perfectly? Wham Bam says 70 is the recommended but I wonder if its to much or not. Great Video!
I use the textured glass that creality offers on my ender 3 pro and it works perfectly everytime, just needs a quick wipe with IPA every couple prints.
team smooth here, my ender 3 has a very slightly warped bed and I print on borosilicate glass to mitigate that. PETG prints perfectly for me with sugar water as a release agent. Not interested in doing a bltouch and mesh levelling, because that's going to transfer my bed warp into my parts.
Glass and white woodglue is the best imho, you dont need a heated bed, easiest to remove of all by just adding a few drops of water at the edges of the print and the capillary effect will loosen the print. It is also cheap so a mirror is just gold. You never need a spatula on glass..
OK so just did a new print on this newer (newer to me) flex bed. I have two other whambam flex systems and really wanted to give this one a test run and it doesn't disappoint. Prints stick great and I love that texture. I also finally installed the swiss all metal hot end and its great. I did take your advice and lowered the retraction....I do have a technical question, if I'm having PLA prints warping, is it because the bed it too clod or too hot. Dig your channel. Its now one of my go too channel to get info for 3d printing so thanks.
I have both on my prusa mk3 and use smooth only as I had first layer adhesion issues with textured plate. Also to avoid damage note that the z height will be different going from smooth to texture
Good call! I hope that others realize that but yes definitely the different build surface in general will have various thicknesses so the z height even if it is just a small baby step will need to be adjusted.
Not Whambam but theres other manufactures that actually make a plate that has smooth PEI and textured powder coat on the same plate, on each side. Best of both worlds!
Huh never used that I might give it a try on my ender 3 , another great video buddy , have you ever thought of making a video explaining how to contact company's for review machines and review 3d printers accessories ect and what goes into making a video ?
Hey John! Thanks for watching. Let me know if you do give it a go. And not really. Not that I never would but I feel most of my audience are not necessarily content creators but more tinkerers, hackers, 3d printing enthusiasts, and makers of all kind. I definitely would not be apposed but in all reality, I have been making videos for something like 8 years and it took a very long time before I really had companies wanting to send things. I think starting off you just need to make videos on something you love. You don't necessarily need a lot. If you are passionate about something and enjoy making videos the viewers will come. Bit of a rant but maybe a topic I cover on something like a podcast.
@@ModBotArmy not a rant at all really enjoy your channel and your opinions thank you so much for taking the time to reply in such detail , I actually have a channel it is called nerdasutra but sadly since covid me and my crew haven't been able to really make any new content it's meant to be everything nerdy , thank you so much for always responding ☺️
Great Video, on my Ender3 I use the TH3D EZflex2 textured PEI and for stuff I need to make sure it sticks I use the TH3D EZMat2. On my Prusa, I use both the smooth PEI and textured PEI and they are all awesome. Just the ability to flex and remove the part is a game changer.
Right? Flex Plates are still pretty underrated to me. I am very surprised it is not a standard across more of the industry. I do understand glass is able to work with more materials but for anyone printing with primarily standard materials I don't understand why you would choose something else.
I ruined a Voxelab stock coated/textured glass bed side by incorrectly cleaning off glue stick. I am planning to replace that bed with a Creality PEI bed to try and get better adhesion as I have had nothing but trouble with the glass bed and I'm trying to avoid glue stick.
As someone who is new to 3d printing, I find your videos very informative. I was wondering if it would be possible to use binder clips on a PEI sheet, instead of using the magnetic sticker. I have read that the magnets will eventually lose their magnetism from the heat of the build plate. If they are easy to remove from the build plate, it wouldn't be a big deal of course. Do you have any thoughts on it?
For PLA I use a salt solution on a plain glass bed or mirror, which dries with a salt crystal surface, here is an in-depth PDF by the developer of this method, when you connect to this address there is a problem with the university's file server so click on the way back machine option to get the file @t This method is great as it is really cheap and works just like the coated glass beds in that it releases the print as though it was never stuck down in the first place. The settings on the channel have URL turned off sorry
Its phenolic sheet Depending on what country your in it may have a different name Tufnol is what it is in the uk Lot cheaper if you buy it as what it is rather than from a company selling you it as a 3d printer part
Hey pal I love my textured bed but wanted to try a glass bed. I bought a good with that special surface that does not need glue. I looked through your vid library to see if you had a diy on installing a glass bed but couldn't find one. DO you have a vid on installing a glass bed on a ender 3 and, if not, could you point me to a decent vid?
I have this and while I love it, the ridges/bumps are really tall. Wham Bam advised me to sand it down a bit with 600 grit. I was struggling to get this perfectly level on my first layer. Also, you can't just scrape the print skirt lines and such off. And cleaning it, well, it will rip up a cloth or paper towel. I wish mine and scrub with a plastic brush from time to time....or a wire brush between prints seems to help too.
Hello. I BUY ONE PEI for my cr 10s pro. And I have so much problems with bed adhesion. I use 1200 sand paper and I have better adhesion and leveling. Also I have one intact side. What are your print temperatures? Nozzle and Bed
The default flexible bed that came with my Ender 3 Pro works great for me. I just need to raise the bed temp a bit since this flex stuff doesn't heat that well (65 C is enough)
I am happy to hear it is working well for you. Do you primarily print with PLA? I have used them before but they always wear down very quickly for me and typically PET-G parts weld to it from my experience. I do think they are better than nothing but my experience has been pretty meh with them.
@@ModBotArmy Yes, I only use PLA since I'm kinda new to 3D printing. Before discovering this temp setting, I did have some adherence issues. I might buy one of those sheets in the future though!
I switched to FBS on my resin printer after I used too much force on a spatula and my finger slid down the build plate side. Wish I would of spent the $ sooner to of avoided that entire situation and stitches.
Oh man, I am sorry to hear that. Worst thing that has happened to me was using cheap mirror tiles from home depot for a Creality printer. I had a stuck part and when it finally popped off my hand slid into the corner of the mirror tyle. Needless to say it was not a beveled edge and split my finger open. No stitches but lots of blood and a lesson learned haha. Sorry it happened (you are not alone)
I'm a member of the gashed hand club too. It still hurts a month later. This was on the aftermarket creality flex magnetic bed which was impossible to get prints off of. That went right back to Amazon and I left the blood on it. I got a powder coated mag bed and it's much better.
agree to the textured sheet ( prusa I3 MK3s) i have both the smooth and textured/ For plates that need to be displayed and do not need a smooth finish , the textured makes it look so uniform. do a two color print black with white 2 layer text and you know what I mean
Great video! I have seen warnings about going too high with temperatures with magnets... is ABS printing going to ruin the magnetic adhesive on the bottom since it needs higher bed temps?
Hi I enjoy your videos and have learned a lot from them. I have an ender 3 v2 and am new to this stuff. I recently installed a pei magnetic spring steel bed. I ran the bed temp at 50c using pla filament. What is the best temp to use? I had an overnight print fail and wonder if the ambient temp lowering at night would cause this and if raising the bed temp would minimize the chances of it happening again? I noticed that with the slightest lowering of the temp after printing the objects simply wipe off the bed, no prying at all. Thanks
I've been printing on textured PEI with Carbon Fiber PETG/PLA and I can't get the lines to be even close to what everyone else seems to be getting. I see the walls outlined and all the infill lines clearly. I tried squishing down as much as possible without scraping the bed/layers but no luck. Have you ever tried printing CF on textured PEI? What did it look like?
With the stock powder coated bed on my Creality CR-10S Pro i always had the issue that small plastic residues from prints i've printed before were stuck to my print, even when cleaning it between color changes. Is this the same here? Btw i also use Wham Bam PEI and think it's great, only the scuffing with steel wool would't give me enough adhesion so i used 360 grid sand paper and have no adhesion problems any more.
I'm a glass guy. My first printer (Leapfrog) had a glass bed and since I only printed ABS this was easy to cover with ABS goo. On my next printer I switched over to Buildtak and in the beginning I loved the texture but buildtak is very prone to damaging, is not cheap and large things pull the buildtak from the spring steel leaving air bubbles. So I'm back to glass again. The powder coated bed from Creality is nice, as long as you don't print massive things. For large things in PLA I mostly use glass with a coating of bed adhesive from DevilDesign - I used to use Dimafix but that leaves a very ugly streaky bottom whereas the DevilDesign adhesive gives a nice shiny surface. PETG must always be printed with adhesive, I have damaged 3 or 4 sheets that I forgot to cover with adhesive. In this case, the Dimafix has the advantage that it dries up misty so I can see if I missed a part of my glass. Dimafix releases easier than the DevilDesign stuff but both can use water to soak a part loose (especially handy for large fragile parts)
The problem being is they have a very narrow ranges of sizes for powder coated pei build plates and according wham bam they do not recommend cutting them to the correct size.
I've heard that you should use some gluestick or similar for PET-G as it has a tendency to stick too well to the bed. Do you use something like this for PET-G prints?
Havent really had that experience and I have printed on the smooth PEI as well. I think it will depend a bit on how close your nozzle is and perhaps how big the part is. I have experienced PET-G welding to build surfaces but that was primarily BuildTak for me.
Ok, so I’m brand new to this (am waiting to open my new Ender 3 V2.). I would think it would really depend on the intended use or user. Question is if I install the flexible system will I not be able to use the glass on top of the magnetic base?
I switch my print surface between garolite, polycarbonate, borosilicate glass, and flex plate, depending on what I'm printing. the garolite, polycarbonate, and glass are all quite thick at 4.8mm (typical thickness for glass print beds is 4mm) and they hold down just fine on top of the mag base using regular old swiss clips I'm using a heavily modified ender 3 pro. I think the build surface is relatively unchanged
@@ModBotArmy it just arrived today and my first print just started. I use a lot of Nylon filament and Polycarbonate because I print mostly in industrial applications. The wear and tear on my print beds from the constant use leads to about 3 print beds delaminating per year, so I am hoping this one is tougher than my stock Qidi Tech X Max beds.
Just the z height. In my experience, the material is thin enough that it conducts the heat without any issues. If you had something very thick I could see it but this has not required any temp adjustments.
It is an AM8. Basically an Anet A8 with nothing left from that printer lol. I need to make a video on it. I will try to do it in the next few weeks here.
Too bad he’s never used Zillagrip cold bed glue. allows you to print the most type of plastics and works with a cold bed. Just heat the bed to release. PLA ABS Nylon PETG PP POM TPU TPE PC with one glue.
Took me a while to tune in doing PETG on the smooth PEX.. But I LOVE it! This new textured/powder coat seems pretty cool though.. Especially for Rocketry where I'm expoxying parts together.. textured surfaces epoxy together better/stronger.
@@ModBotArmy Never heard of that stuff before. is it the one on the MatterHackers website? I love my FR4 and on a discord server i am in too they like it too.
@@ModBotArmy I use Mamorubot brand. They have a wide selection, great quality, and if you need a size they don’t have listed, contact them and they will custom make it for you.
15% Percent off WhamBam products for the month of February! :)
whambam3d.com/discount/BV72BGRKWYMY
Have an April discount code? :)
Oh man that surface texture looks great. Also agree with you on the smooth / mirror like finish vs a little bit of texture for the under print. Great video!
Are you or have you used the powder-coated PEI? I can't remember if your Prusa Mini came with the smooth or coated bed. Thanks man :)
Moved to smooth PEI on spring steel on my Ender 3 about two years ago. Love the ease of removal and it's my daily driver for PLA. I also have a Creality branded glass build surface that has whatever textured coating they use. Waiting for the glass to cool down to remove the print is kind of drag but I really like the textured finish it leaves on my print. Think I'll give the textured Wham Bam surface a try and see if I can get the best of both. Good content as always.
Thanks Dale! I will say that other than the PEI I have been using I really do like the black diamond glass or UltraBase build surface that you are describing. My biggest issue is depending on the materials I am using sometimes the adhesive can be too good and real pain for removal. Granted I would rather have this than not stuck but I do love the ability to flex part and be printing again right away. If you try the coated please let me know what you think.
I'm sold. Just ordered the powered coated sheet for my ender3 pro. I love all the WhamBam systems and have been using the PEI and now I'm using a black spring steel sheet now with the reversible powdered coated bed but its not a wham Bam system. I still like the finish but now that I know Wham has a system like that I'm completely sold. Thanks a million for this vid.
Totally! I am not sure when they released this. I have seen a few others using it which makes me think it may not be brand new but last time I looked it was not available which was maybe 6ish months ago. Thanks for watching and I hope you love your new bed.
Man I just gotta say I hate that twitter whistle sound at the beginning of each episode. Great stuff otherwise, keep it up!
lol you are not the first person to say this. I feel that it is low enough that I don't understand it. I have had it for so long I just like it. Do you feel it is just too loud? Thanks for watching :)
@@ModBotArmy Yes, it's a bit loud. Maybe shrill is a better word? I guess I find it jarring when I'm trying to follow along with what your saying. It pulls me away from the intro.
@@ModBotArmy It bothered me too when I first found your channel. Now I just kind of expect it. I still dont love it, and I know this is strange to say, but I might miss it if it was gone haha I would at very least wonder where it went for a half dozen or so videos.
@@IanBakker So weird, on my end it is so quiet. I will bump it down a few additional db for the next video and see if that helps!
@@jon9947 haha I am going to bump it down a few decibels for my next video then to see if it helps. I like having it but also do not want to try to be accomodating and if this is a universal feeling I can definitely scale it back a bit. I agree with you though at this point I feel like it is part of the video. Let me know in the next video if bumping it down a few helps :)
I just printed the first print on my new wham bam plate. ABS, enclosed, a 2.5 in x 4 in rectagle, 3|16 thick. all 4 corners wrapped.
Ha 6 months into 3d printing - Blue tape - check (not bad), polyimide sheets - check (wears out too fast), magigoo - check (works great, but builds residue), glue stick - check (sticks too well) hairspray - check (works well, but like magigoo, builds up gunk on print) I just bought my first PEI plate last week. Have not yet tried it. My ender 5 Pro with glass has been great. But my Ender 3 v2 has been a nightmare since day one. I ended up buying a new hot bed and glass top and , so far, it's actually working. Since day one, the E 3v2 has been horrible at staying level, and bed adhesion. Pretty sure the stock bed was warped badly, because the Ender 5 Pro sitting right next to it never had issues staying level or issues with prints sticking, without the use of anything other than a clean bed.
Definitely appreciate this and your other vids!! Really been helpful! Thank You!
Nice to know that I’m not the only one having nightmare issues with the Ender 3 v2 bed levelling. Mine started with replacing my springs, started with yellow springs then changed to silicon. Now my problem is with the glass, Im planning to switch to Pei with spring steel
I have used PEX in almost two years now, and love it
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😊
Oh wow! Have you had to replace the sheet ever? My experience with PEX is that it is really a tough material and with proper cleaning it lasts a very long time.
Yep, I have changed my sheet two times..👍☺️
I bought the PEX for my Ender 3 but don’t get good adhesive. What temperature do you set it at?
@@avejst How hard was changing the PEX sheet?
Team smooth ALL the way! I print a LOT of parts that need a smooth finish on the side that was stuck to the build plate.
Out of curiosity what are the parts you print that need to be smooth? Just wondering if it is for the aesthetic you are going for or perhaps it is tolerance related.
@@ModBotArmy purely for the looks is what I'm after. One of the projects that springs to mind is the battery cover for a traffic control reader board type trailer. It's similar looking to the Wanco vertical mast reader boards. I'll have videos of the project on my channel within a few weeks, HOPEFULLY......Providing the project's assembly goes smoothly.
@@pnwRC. I don't think the mirror finish looks bad, it's just the fact that it looks so different from the other sides. That's what I personally am not a fan of, I'm a huge fan of the nice soft and smooth texture that PEI creates.
Recently moved from glass with masking tape to a textured PEI sheet and the difference is incredible parts that would of taken several attempts to print before are now working constantly
As long as it sticks when it should. And release when it should. Thank You for this vid ModBot
Wow I can't get over how SOOOO much better that new build plate is. I have not had a single issue while using it. Man I'm so glad you found this and turned us on to it.
Hell to the yeah! I am stoked to hear you are having such good luck with it. I seriously love it 😬. Have a great weekend!!!
Great video!
After 2 years of printing I still use glass with glue stick, but I want a powder coated bed for my next printer to try out.
New here on PEI after using glass, so far I love it. thanks for your video.
Great explanation and experiment demonstrating the differences in surface texture, thanks!
Absolutely! Thank you very much for watching :)
Ah ya its official. I now have my default flexible wham bam bed. This new bed is by FAR the best of the bunch. I'm doing very detailed bed adhere printing with no issues in fact I've not seen a better output. Thanks for turning me onto this man. I just became a Patreon
Wonderful Review, thanks! very thorough and covered all topics.
Best 3D Print surface for PLA for me is Polycarbonate sheet 60 C on the bed
Great overview. Actually im team of both :), im using them based on material i need, for example PETG is easier for me to remove from texture. Also it depends from print if i need smooth surface or not. But overall for me was easier to adjust Z height on texture sheet than on smooth one, probably because there is bigger tolerance.
Thanks for watching! I have printed quite a bit of PET-G on the smooth and haven't had many issues but I can definitely see a part being able to bond with the smooth since it is a sheet that could be annoying or even damage the sheet. That was one of my issues with standard BuildTak PET-G would bond to it and damage the build surface. I am team both as well (I think) haha we will see when I have put some more mileage on this textured.
I would say that it depends upon the project. Sometimes you don’t have a choice, but when you do it’s nice that you can choose. I’ve been using the Wham Bam system on my Mars printers, and it has made it so much easier to remove prints, that I won’t ever use a printer that doesn’t have a flexible built plate. The build surface on my Snapmaker 2.0 A350 is double-sided as well, and I freaking luv it.
Since I now need to print nylon, carbon fiber, and other high-temp materials, I ordered an Ender 5 Plus yesterday. I spent a week researching options for highly accurate and repeatable printers with a large build volume, that I could upgrade for high temperature printing. I found all of the parts that I needed for the upgrades, some of which had only become available within the past 6 months, so I should have it fully up within a month. I decided to go with the Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for the Ender 5, with a Mosquito hot-end, the linear rail adapters from PrinterMods, and flexible Wham Bam build plate specifically designed from the Ender 5 Plus. Just waiting on some clarification from PrinterMods on their adapter system.
Have an AWESOME weekend!
Oh man the flexplate on the resin printers is awesome. I have it on the Mars and Phenom and I do not miss removing stuck resin prints. I almost think that is worse than the FDM since the resin can make it more slippery (sketchy). I really want to take a look into the SnapMaker 2. Did the double sided sheet come standard or did you have to add that?
Wow that sounds like a badass Ender 5 Plus. Are you planning on enclosing it as well? I would love to see photos or videos of this build when you have made some progress on this. Looking forward to hearing how it goes. The parts you are choosing sounds great.
Weekend was nice! Finally celebrated Christmas with the parents (how to postpone because of Covid scare) I hope you had a great weekend as well.
@@ModBotArmy the double-sided build plate comes standard on all Snapmakers, and I bought a 2nd one in case I screwed up the first one. PLA sticks a little too well to it, until it's seasoned. I've been using the Elmers Purple glue sticks (dries clear), which works great so far. Used it with PETG too, and no issues.
As for the Ender 5 Plus, yes I plan on enclosing it with plexi/acrylic, similar to what Teaching Tech did, but I have different plans for the top and bottom that still need to be fleshed out. I'll try to document as much as I can, so we'll see. Ideally I'd like to be able to heat the chamber up to somewhere in the 120-150°C range, as the Wham Bam can work up to 150°C, but I'll probably do it in steps, staring with like 60-80°C, as anything higher requires liquid cooling, and I may need to double pane the sides.
Yeah, Covid is making everything difficult. I've have to push back some projects that I've been planning by as much as a year, due to supply issues. Hopefully things will start to get better around April or May.
Take it easy, be safe!
I have printed on glass almost exclusively. But its the textured glass that creality has. Just ordered a double sided PEI bed for the voron 2.4 im building. One side smooth and the other textured.
Thanks for the video!
I just ordered a PEI bed from Ali - been using the Kapton tape since day one
Would the textured surface be better to stop the parts from warping over the smooth surface.? YES
Great video, might have to check this out. It depends on what I am printing as to if I want texture of smooth, which is one of the many reasons ultrabase has been my preferred build surface for a bit. Can just flip it over and have smooth.
Interesting, did you buy the ultrabase or is it just the one on your anycubic machine? I have primarily used them on the JG-Aurora and the printers from Artillery but I feel it is quite a bit of work to flip over. If you had them just clipped on I could see flipping over being quite easy. TBH I had no idea the underside was smooth. From someone that does love the ultrabase I totally think it is worth at least exploring.
@@ModBotArmy Both, I have a Mega S and a few other various machines. I have never tried to flip the one on my Anycubic machine as it is glued down, but the others I have. My Tronxy D01 came with ultrabase then I have bought it for a few of my Creality machines, and they all just use clips to attach, so flipping it is super easy.
When I am using the smooth side I just use glue stick like I would with normal glass, and when I want the ultrabase side I just wash off the glue with warm water and flip it over.
I use the TH3D textured PEI plate and I love the uniform texture. There are instances where I want a smooth surface for mated parts or whatever, but I find myself using the textured plate the most.
Can you please tell me what bed temperature you used for that giant orange cube to stick down perfectly? Wham Bam says 70 is the recommended but I wonder if its to much or not. Great Video!
I use the textured glass that creality offers on my ender 3 pro and it works perfectly everytime, just needs a quick wipe with IPA every couple prints.
Textured, for our pleasure.
team smooth here, my ender 3 has a very slightly warped bed and I print on borosilicate glass to mitigate that. PETG prints perfectly for me with sugar water as a release agent. Not interested in doing a bltouch and mesh levelling, because that's going to transfer my bed warp into my parts.
Glass and white woodglue is the best imho, you dont need a heated bed, easiest to remove of all by just adding a few drops of water at the edges of the print and the capillary effect will loosen the print. It is also cheap so a mirror is just gold. You never need a spatula on glass..
Super video! Really loved it! Very informative.
OK so just did a new print on this newer (newer to me) flex bed. I have two other whambam flex systems and really wanted to give this one a test run and it doesn't disappoint. Prints stick great and I love that texture. I also finally installed the swiss all metal hot end and its great. I did take your advice and lowered the retraction....I do have a technical question, if I'm having PLA prints warping, is it because the bed it too clod or too hot. Dig your channel. Its now one of my go too channel to get info for 3d printing so thanks.
My works fine. Love it
Team as long as my parts stick.
I have both on my prusa mk3 and use smooth only as I had first layer adhesion issues with textured plate. Also to avoid damage note that the z height will be different going from smooth to texture
Good call! I hope that others realize that but yes definitely the different build surface in general will have various thicknesses so the z height even if it is just a small baby step will need to be adjusted.
But you need to relevel if you want to switch between pei powder coated and pex?
That would really defeat the convenience for me
Team textured my good sir.
Not Whambam but theres other manufactures that actually make a plate that has smooth PEI and textured powder coat on the same plate, on each side. Best of both worlds!
That is kind of cool to have. I wonder if they would ever consider doing something like that.
Huh never used that I might give it a try on my ender 3 , another great video buddy , have you ever thought of making a video explaining how to contact company's for review machines and review 3d printers accessories ect and what goes into making a video ?
Hey John! Thanks for watching. Let me know if you do give it a go. And not really. Not that I never would but I feel most of my audience are not necessarily content creators but more tinkerers, hackers, 3d printing enthusiasts, and makers of all kind. I definitely would not be apposed but in all reality, I have been making videos for something like 8 years and it took a very long time before I really had companies wanting to send things. I think starting off you just need to make videos on something you love. You don't necessarily need a lot. If you are passionate about something and enjoy making videos the viewers will come. Bit of a rant but maybe a topic I cover on something like a podcast.
@@ModBotArmy not a rant at all really enjoy your channel and your opinions thank you so much for taking the time to reply in such detail , I actually have a channel it is called nerdasutra but sadly since covid me and my crew haven't been able to really make any new content it's meant to be everything nerdy , thank you so much for always responding ☺️
Great video man!
Thank you very much for watching 😬🙌
I've been using glass on my Ender 3 and it's worked pretty well
At what temperature?
@@marksneyd1262 60c. I let the bed warmup for 5 minutes then start printing
Great Video, on my Ender3 I use the TH3D EZflex2 textured PEI and for stuff I need to make sure it sticks I use the TH3D EZMat2. On my Prusa, I use both the smooth PEI and textured PEI and they are all awesome. Just the ability to flex and remove the part is a game changer.
Right? Flex Plates are still pretty underrated to me. I am very surprised it is not a standard across more of the industry. I do understand glass is able to work with more materials but for anyone printing with primarily standard materials I don't understand why you would choose something else.
Price aside, any advantages to using either brand over the other?
I ruined a Voxelab stock coated/textured glass bed side by incorrectly cleaning off glue stick. I am planning to replace that bed with a Creality PEI bed to try and get better adhesion as I have had nothing but trouble with the glass bed and I'm trying to avoid glue stick.
Smooth
As someone who is new to 3d printing, I find your videos very informative. I was wondering if it would be possible to use binder clips on a PEI sheet, instead of using the magnetic sticker. I have read that the magnets will eventually lose their magnetism from the heat of the build plate. If they are easy to remove from the build plate, it wouldn't be a big deal of course. Do you have any thoughts on it?
would be a screw attached single-use pla/abs/* print plate, on the heat bed
paper and cardboard
Textured for sure
For PLA I use a salt solution on a plain glass bed or mirror, which dries with a salt crystal surface, here is an in-depth PDF by the developer of this method, when you connect to this address there is a problem with the university's file server so click on the way back machine option to get the file
@t
This method is great as it is really cheap and works just like the coated glass beds in that it releases the print as though it was never stuck down in the first place.
The settings on the channel have URL turned off sorry
Where do you get the garolite from?
Matterhackers mainly or eBay, it's mainly used to print Nylons.
The ones I have used were MatterHackers. They have quite a few different sizes.
Its phenolic sheet
Depending on what country your in it may have a different name
Tufnol is what it is in the uk
Lot cheaper if you buy it as what it is rather than from a company selling you it as a 3d printer part
How does the texture compare to the cura fuzzy skin? If you print upside down might give a uniform look to the part?
I am going to be doing a video on Cura Fuzzy Skin in the nearish future. I will be able to tell you then :)
Hey pal I love my textured bed but wanted to try a glass bed. I bought a good with that special surface that does not need glue. I looked through your vid library to see if you had a diy on installing a glass bed but couldn't find one. DO you have a vid on installing a glass bed on a ender 3 and, if not, could you point me to a decent vid?
I have this and while I love it, the ridges/bumps are really tall. Wham Bam advised me to sand it down a bit with 600 grit. I was struggling to get this perfectly level on my first layer. Also, you can't just scrape the print skirt lines and such off. And cleaning it, well, it will rip up a cloth or paper towel. I wish mine and scrub with a plastic brush from time to time....or a wire brush between prints seems to help too.
Hello. I BUY ONE PEI for my cr 10s pro. And I have so much problems with bed adhesion. I use 1200 sand paper and I have better adhesion and leveling. Also I have one intact side. What are your print temperatures? Nozzle and Bed
The default flexible bed that came with my Ender 3 Pro works great for me. I just need to raise the bed temp a bit since this flex stuff doesn't heat that well (65 C is enough)
I am happy to hear it is working well for you. Do you primarily print with PLA? I have used them before but they always wear down very quickly for me and typically PET-G parts weld to it from my experience. I do think they are better than nothing but my experience has been pretty meh with them.
@@ModBotArmy Yes, I only use PLA since I'm kinda new to 3D printing. Before discovering this temp setting, I did have some adherence issues. I might buy one of those sheets in the future though!
I switched to FBS on my resin printer after I used too much force on a spatula and my finger slid down the build plate side. Wish I would of spent the $ sooner to of avoided that entire situation and stitches.
Ouch! Hope your hand feels better soon fam
Oh man, I am sorry to hear that. Worst thing that has happened to me was using cheap mirror tiles from home depot for a Creality printer. I had a stuck part and when it finally popped off my hand slid into the corner of the mirror tyle. Needless to say it was not a beveled edge and split my finger open. No stitches but lots of blood and a lesson learned haha. Sorry it happened (you are not alone)
I'm a member of the gashed hand club too. It still hurts a month later. This was on the aftermarket creality flex magnetic bed which was impossible to get prints off of. That went right back to Amazon and I left the blood on it. I got a powder coated mag bed and it's much better.
I’ve dragged my nozzle across mine pei really bad and it has a line in it but I have 0 issues with it. Also it’s not from wham bam
agree to the textured sheet ( prusa I3 MK3s) i have both the smooth and textured/
For plates that need to be displayed and do not need a smooth finish , the textured makes it look so uniform.
do a two color print black with white 2 layer text and you know what I mean
I am trying to visualize this. Do you mean a print where you will be printing and putting together after? Or on a dual extrusion machine??
@@ModBotArmy Nope. with filament change manual
Does it work well on ABS? I mean either the powder coated and the PEX?
Great video! I have seen warnings about going too high with temperatures with magnets... is ABS printing going to ruin the magnetic adhesive on the bottom since it needs higher bed temps?
Hi I enjoy your videos and have learned a lot from them. I have an ender 3 v2 and am new to this stuff. I recently installed a pei magnetic spring steel bed. I ran the bed temp at 50c using pla filament. What is the best temp to use? I had an overnight print fail and wonder if the ambient temp lowering at night would cause this and if raising the bed temp would minimize the chances of it happening again? I noticed that with the slightest lowering of the temp after printing the objects simply wipe off the bed, no prying at all. Thanks
I've been printing on textured PEI with Carbon Fiber PETG/PLA and I can't get the lines to be even close to what everyone else seems to be getting. I see the walls outlined and all the infill lines clearly. I tried squishing down as much as possible without scraping the bed/layers but no luck. Have you ever tried printing CF on textured PEI? What did it look like?
With the stock powder coated bed on my Creality CR-10S Pro i always had the issue that small plastic residues from prints i've printed before were stuck to my print, even when cleaning it between color changes. Is this the same here?
Btw i also use Wham Bam PEI and think it's great, only the scuffing with steel wool would't give me enough adhesion so i used 360 grid sand paper and have no adhesion problems any more.
I'm a glass guy. My first printer (Leapfrog) had a glass bed and since I only printed ABS this was easy to cover with ABS goo. On my next printer I switched over to Buildtak and in the beginning I loved the texture but buildtak is very prone to damaging, is not cheap and large things pull the buildtak from the spring steel leaving air bubbles.
So I'm back to glass again. The powder coated bed from Creality is nice, as long as you don't print massive things. For large things in PLA I mostly use glass with a coating of bed adhesive from DevilDesign - I used to use Dimafix but that leaves a very ugly streaky bottom whereas the DevilDesign adhesive gives a nice shiny surface. PETG must always be printed with adhesive, I have damaged 3 or 4 sheets that I forgot to cover with adhesive. In this case, the Dimafix has the advantage that it dries up misty so I can see if I missed a part of my glass.
Dimafix releases easier than the DevilDesign stuff but both can use water to soak a part loose (especially handy for large fragile parts)
How do you squish the filament down into the sheet without getting the dreaded elephant's foot?
🇨🇦🐧
you can set first layer conditions in slicer so it is 70% height and 100% width
The problem being is they have a very narrow ranges of sizes for powder coated pei build plates and according wham bam they do not recommend cutting them to the correct size.
Doesn't it loos its magnetism over time due to heating?
Omg what happened to the burnt welded part
I mean, I've printed stuff on a corner with a 5mm² bed contact area just fine on glass with super thin diluted white glue
Have you used flexplates much or are you pretty much glass only at this point?
Can the PEI powder painted bed be used with the PRUSA MK3s
If you get the right size absolutely.
Garolite for anyone in the uk
Look for tufnol
Or just eveyone in general research phenolic sheet thats what it is
I've heard that you should use some gluestick or similar for PET-G as it has a tendency to stick too well to the bed. Do you use something like this for PET-G prints?
Havent really had that experience and I have printed on the smooth PEI as well. I think it will depend a bit on how close your nozzle is and perhaps how big the part is. I have experienced PET-G welding to build surfaces but that was primarily BuildTak for me.
I've had petg stick to pei even when printed in the air more. No lifting or curling at all with petg & kapton on glass at 85deg.
Ok, so I’m brand new to this (am waiting to open my new Ender 3 V2.). I would think it would really depend on the intended use or user. Question is if I install the flexible system will I not be able to use the glass on top of the magnetic base?
I switch my print surface between garolite, polycarbonate, borosilicate glass, and flex plate, depending on what I'm printing. the garolite, polycarbonate, and glass are all quite thick at 4.8mm (typical thickness for glass print beds is 4mm) and they hold down just fine on top of the mag base using regular old swiss clips
I'm using a heavily modified ender 3 pro. I think the build surface is relatively unchanged
Sold
Haha please let me know how you like it.
@@ModBotArmy it just arrived today and my first print just started. I use a lot of Nylon filament and Polycarbonate because I print mostly in industrial applications. The wear and tear on my print beds from the constant use leads to about 3 print beds delaminating per year, so I am hoping this one is tougher than my stock Qidi Tech X Max beds.
Why I'll never use a glas bed
Do you have to change the temp setting because of the extra layers on the bed?
You'll need to re-calibrate your Z-offset. But this is true for any new bed, not just powder coated.
Just the z height. In my experience, the material is thin enough that it conducts the heat without any issues. If you had something very thick I could see it but this has not required any temp adjustments.
Which printer is that you showed the plates on ?
It is an AM8. Basically an Anet A8 with nothing left from that printer lol. I need to make a video on it. I will try to do it in the next few weeks here.
Too bad he’s never used Zillagrip cold bed glue.
allows you to print the most type of plastics and works with a cold bed. Just heat the bed to release. PLA ABS Nylon PETG PP POM TPU TPE PC with one glue.
C: please just release my print
Took me a while to tune in doing PETG on the smooth PEX.. But I LOVE it!
This new textured/powder coat seems pretty cool though.. Especially for Rocketry where I'm expoxying parts together.. textured surfaces epoxy together better/stronger.
cool. have you ever tried a FR4
That's basically Garolite. Which he said he used
Not completely sure. According to someone else, it is like Garolite which I have used. Is this something you use?
@@ModBotArmy Never heard of that stuff before. is it the one on the MatterHackers website? I love my FR4 and on a discord server i am in too they like it too.
@@ModBotArmy i dont know the
what is happening with the comments?! i can't comment anything
How about styrofoam sheet. If bottom surface is sacrificed. Never fails. Courtsy of digital dentist
Have you printed on a styrofoam sheet? That is a new one to me haha.
@@ModBotArmy yep, no complaints, no warping
I dissolve a glue stick in denatured alcohol or 90% rubbing alcohol, brush it on and let it dry...good to go
Hey
Hey!
🔥😍👍
300 bucks?
I don't think the flex plate is worth it. It will cost me 120 euros for my printer. If I just use glass it will work fine too
Polypropylene is my goto. Better than PEI.
What Polypro sheets are you using? and what materials have you printed on it?
@@ModBotArmy I use Mamorubot brand. They have a wide selection, great quality, and if you need a size they don’t have listed, contact them and they will custom make it for you.
@@ModBotArmy I mostly print with PETG.
Iike my print bottoms like I like my brain..............bumpy