I have been doing that a month after my first print. Also, some slicers like lyche lets you tweak the lift height, so by lowering that it also lowers general time to print and resistance of the resin since it has less distance to travel at fast speed
I love this video, I am new and used to be afraid of changing default setting but I believe it moves way too slow. My prints with an aproximate speed of 240 look the same in quality that prints of 60 but being able to print them in almost half the time is incredible. I wish future 3D printers are made to make quicker prints.
*THANK YOU* so much Uncle Jessy for Supporting my track "Inner Soul" on this 3D Printing video 💎💖💖💖🎶 truly appreciate your support! Take care and stay safe, wishing the best this year 🤞✨
I have been"vrooming" for a month or so, and the only negative I have seen is that my supports hold on much better - making cleanup/scarring a bigger issue. Still, if I can cut 3 hours off a 12 hour print, an extra 10 minutes cleaning up the model is worth it.
@@Loasdrums2 Honestly, I have been so careful with my FEP that I'm going on a year and a half, and haven't had to change it out yet - so I don't know. :)
In my Mars and Mars 2 Pro I keep the FEP around 340hz +/- 5hz. Much further than that I get failures. I also run a thinner layer height between 0.02mm and 0.03mm.
I've been printing at 240mm/s on the E10 with vroom settings for a few days now. Been working great. Estimates have been far off, but I'm getting about 25% better speeds.
I've been hearing about this on various fb groups and have been testing settings myself. I finally had my first success! 2.5 hours for a 1080 layer print. Will be comparing my settings with yours - thank you!!
Jessy Just let you know I have tried this settings on my Saturn and Elegoo Mars. They worked great. I didn’t update any of the firmware. And the prints were awesome. The Vroom were great. Thanks
Thanks for that interesting setup. I'm interested in eliminating warps that happens after printing. There's so many videos of how to's on print settings, but none for printed parts. Especially thin parts. Thanks
Thanks Uncle Jessie, just wondering what setting you used for the siraya fast resin? I have had quite good results with saturn and vroom settings but I feel like my exposure times aren't quite as dialed in as yours
Wouldn't this depend on the resin you're using? For example Sirayatech Blu is really thick, viscous, so I actually have to slow down my lift speed to print with it. Phrozen's 4K resin is really thin so I can speed it up.
Uncle Jessy, I'm trying to get into 3d printing as a whole. I am really leaning for a resin 3d printer as I don't mind the clean up and curing process. What I mainly want the 3d printer is for miniatures, busts and stuff in that regard, but I am also really interested in making the occasional facemask like the half kabuki mask you have shown off. Which printer would you recommend for someone like me now that there are so many options? right now, I'm leaning towards the Mars 2 pro, but I doubt i can make face masks with it's smaller size.
Atlas group is fantastic. So many printing experts over there. They even have a Vroom board of its own. :D From what I hear over there, they've been printing Vroom 24/7 with no adverse effects to machines. I've been printing Vroom for a few weeks now on the old school Mars and results/time savings are fine(with some exposure time tweaking too) Have an SM4K arriving any day now, so going to fit it with an Nfep to relieve some of the vacuum from Vroom.
Probably only affect the lift motor and drivers heating up more. Retraction speed affects the peeling forces on the FEP sheet. Yanking it off the FEP will affect the support structures adhesion.
Good stuff! I've been printing with faster speeds like that too but when it gets colder I've found keeping the bottom lift speed lower helps keep failures to a minimum, unless you're printing in your warm house or in a heated enclosure (I'm in the garage).
Phrozen Sonic Mini here, I've been printing almost 24-7 for the past 3-4 weeks with Vroom @ 300 - didn`t change any gcode or firmware so it could be capped at a lower speed (just went 300 and didn`t bother). Thanks to the faster time I was also able to cut down the lights off, shaving a second away as well as reducing my exposure by close to 10% (.2 seconds) as the results appeared to show a slightly higher exposure. Since I changed my damaged stock Fep I haven`t had a single failure. Considerably faster and flawless results is quite a win!
I print mostly very detailed small minaitures. Everything faster than 45mm/s lift speed is like rolling a dice even with PTFE spray on the FEP. I rather have a print that takes a few hours longer but actually comes out looking perfect than having a faster print with 50% failures. This could work quite well when printing directly on the buildpalte without supports though. It's usually the fine supports that break away when the lift speed is too high. Also: In the pictures the damage from high lift speed is clearly visible at 7:24
i've been using increased z-speeds on my mono-x for about a month with no issues with siraya tech fast grey for some others resins I have had to modify the support settings I assume this is because the siraya tech fast has a little give where alot of other resins are stiffer
hola! he puesto el vroom como en velocidad 180 que parece más estable. Una pregunta, estos días se me han caído de los soportes algunas piezas, siempre del lado izquierdo de la placa, los soportes han salido pero la figura se cayó, ¿incrementando la exposición de las capas de resolverá? la he nivelado ya 3 veces
I have the Creality LD-006, yet to find out how to implement Vroom settings. Changing the settings within Chitubox has little effect on print times, so presuming it'll need the Gcode modifying.
Hi there, what exposure time (not lower) would you recommend for layer height 0.015 on Mars 2 pro mono with standard elegoo grey resin ? I could find info for 0.05 layer height and this is in Chitubox as standard but for that low height i could not find any info.
I did this without knowing vroom, is because when i am tesing Saturn and MonoX, i found out MonoX is 30-45mins faster than Saturn with the default setting. i found out MonoX is having 4mm/s (240mm/min) lift speed and retract speed. So i applied 240mm/s to the Saturn, it went much faster!. Also i tested for 300mm/s, going too fast somehow shake off my print. so probably 200mm/s for saturn is safe to go, MonoX leave it 240-280mm/s. FYI, Saturn do have better print quality compare the MonoX.
I know you did one print in the Fast resin but do you think that the print that failed on the Saturn at 240 would have better results with the Fast resin given that the Fast resin is for fast printing?
I guess Anycubic sets this by default now. I just got a Mono a couple of weeks ago and Photon Workshop had settings of 240 for both lifts and 360 for retraction (well, technically, 4 and 6 because it's per second, not per minute in Photon Workshop). I just transferred those settings over to Chitubox and it's been printing great. I didn't realise it wasn't normal or there was a special term for these kinds of speeds until I saw this, heh.
Great video as usual! Even though I STILL have not broken down and bought a resin printer (so messy) I was curious why the speed increases were done straight across the board as one number rather than doing a percentage? I guess the retract speed would be nuts but maybe limit the speeds to a max cap and say try 200% increase so at time stamp 7:00 (made that one nice didn't ya lol) you show 90,100,150 for speeds so try 180,200,300 rather than straight 240 or whatever. Maybe it is a dumb question (refer to the name and maker coin as I am an idiot)....??
Does Vroom setting work with EPAX E10-4K mono and any other types of resins. I am under the impression that other than the Siraya fast resins they need long cure time? Or am I totally wrong in that line of thought?
I know the video is a year old but I just sew it today. For the first Mars I used the settings from the rook file which came with the printer and the liftsettings there are at 300. So I think you can go that fast with all the Mars printers. Since I used those settings all prints came out nicely, no damage on the screen or whatsoever. I think Lychee is the better slicer and prints which I struggled to print with Chitubox came out great with Lychee. I dont know whats the difference but I dont go back to Chitubox anymore.
Question! Is retact speed the same as lower speed? Trying to follow your steps but Lychee looks a little different now than when this was posted. Thanks!
There's a mechanical limit to how fast the steppers will move, so no matter what you change it to, eventually you'll hit the mechanical limit. On my original Mars, reliability went down as speed went up, so pretty marginal gains.
Based on my experiences with an Epax x1K, success with vroom (again, for me) came down to thickness of supports and type of resin. Started with SirayaTech Fast, very inconsistent results. When I swapped to Epax Hard (grey), I noticed a dramatic increase in success. I think I’ve only had one (partial) fail in two straight weeks of printing. Running @240 lift and 1.8s exposure.
So may i ask why your Exposure time on the Mars 2 Pro is 2.5s, where the Saturn is 2.8s? Isnt the Saturn the bigger more powerful machine. Also what FEP do you use Jesse?
The current rev of Chitubox (1.9.1 Basic) for my M2P has a additional box next to the settings that UJ suggest. Is there any new additional settings that also need to be entered for those spots? Currently using his 180 speed suggestion and getting fine prints but I'm not noticing any real significant time savings. But I'd rather have successful prints over a quicker fail any day.
Biggest takeaway: not all supports are created equal. Resin can factor into it, but supports... Did you try any larger prints on the Mars aside from Darth Maul? I don't recall seeing a time for the non-VROOM print but I imagine the time savings would be slightly better than those observed for the Amerilabs Town prints. One thing I noticed when I first received my Epax X9 mono was that it spent more time moving the plate than curing the resin so I've been playing around with this for a while, I just never knew it had a name. And due to some less than stellar presupports, I've kept my lift speeds modest but I believe my retract speeds are 300 on the X9 and ~210 on the LD-002R with 35 and 40 mm/min lift speeds, respectively, and I've not noticed too many issues across a variety of resins and presupports but Greg, I love that guy, as I've never had an issue with nearly any of his supported minis with lift speeds of 100+. Great video, thanks for the info and this goes a long way towards debunking somet of the info I was first given when expressing concern over failed presupported prints.
My guess is this will not work as well on the larger printers like the phenom. The forces involved with really large prints are much higher and adding speed makes them worse
I was pondering about the exact same thing when I did my first prints on the E10. The print speed was not that impressive, O yes - exposure times go from 8 s on my Photon to 3 s on the E10 but I still measure 10 s per layer because of the slow lift speed. I was not only looking at the lift speed but also at the lifting distance. This is set to 7 mm for the E10 and looking/listening at the action during printing I think that 5mm would be enough for most of my prints. The 7 to 5 mm change reduces my print times from ~13 to ~10 hours As always YMMV and I will definitely stay with the lower speeds for prints that have a large contact area - ripping a FEP sheet while the vat is in the printer is not a fun thing to do ...
14:20 Do you think the wobble might have been the Wham Bam plate shifting? I haven't installed mine on my Saturn yet, just because I I haven't printed full plate models yet and hear some folks having an issue here and there with it.
The only time I've notice slippage of the wham bam plate is if I get resin between the plate and the magnet when putting the flex plate back on after a print. Uncured resin is very slippery, so I always make sure to use a bit of IPA to clean the magnet and both sides of the plate before I re-install it. Haven't had any problems.
Thanks for the shout out for the (g.code) With my settings I increase the exposure to 3.2 seconds for 0.05mm layer height. Other setting I like to play with are to reduce M8016 from I3 to I1 - this improves second home speed. And reduce M8021 from S1.7 to S0.6 this will reduce the distance of the slow retract speed, reducing print times. Great channel 👍
Hey im new into 3d Printer, i bought a Elegoo Mars 2 Pro last Month, and i have the Waterwashable Resin from Elegoo. Can i use ur Settings too for my Prints? Or is this not Working? Because i have another Resin.
been using vroom settings on my saturn since a while; game changer...someone says vroom shortens your lcd screen lifespan since the faster speed doesn't give time to the screen to cool down between layers...but i'm printing in a room where the temperature is around 10°C so I don't worry about overheating
Is there any way to do this with Lychee Slicer? I've been trying for the better part of an hour to find the proper settings but I can't find squat. Is this just something exclusive to Chitubox and other slicers?
2 years late but I am having issue with the Eastwood prints. I downloaded the files to my Anycubic Mono Proton 4k stick and sliced them. Did not change any settings and the very first print failed. It did seems that the lift speed was way to fast and the exposure time was to low. May adjust the exposure up .5s and lower lift speed by 1mm/s
Not sure if this is due to this but changed the settings and, Creality LD-002H FEP failed, Sonic Mini 4k FEP Failed and I need a full screen cleaning, Voxelab Proxima acting very scary so I've reverted it as FEP was geting some divots
I've got saturn 2 and mono 2 the same speed settings that never fail now there 60/150 amd a hight for smaller parts 7 and larger parts 9 to hear that fep release sound! These are absolutely perfect for my printer's not to slow either really Tbh! Saving 40minwnfrom a 5hr print to have a fail at these 240 speeds is it worth it?! It's not to me, what's an extra 40 mins if waited that long only to possibly have a failure somewhere
Did you properly follow the instructions to put it on the build plate? Scuffed the plate with the sandpaper, cleaned it with iso alcohol well, let it fully dry, stuck the magnet on the build plate and let it cure the full 72 hours BEFORE using it?
Do you Think in future the speed of 3d printing will Be Improved ?? i want to buy resin printer but i fear next year some new technology come with better speed
maaan i am having nothing but failures since vroom. just going to go back to my og settings. just happy to have nice prints and okay with waiting the time. too many unpainted mini's anyway lol
I'm curious to see what the long term effects of this is on both the mechanical side and the FEP itself. Not saying this isn't a good idea when tuned properly, it may not effect it at all, or if it does, the overall drop in longevity may be weighed out by the time saved benefit considering the relatively low cost of these resin machines.
Trying to think of a good way to ask this in a way that makes sense but, I would imagine, if you are moving the build plate back down and displacing the resin the resin would still be in motion for the next light on layer. Wouldn't you want to have a dwell time to allow the resin to become static? Not saying so much for supports or even hollow prints but more for large surface area prints.
Just tried 180 on my Mars 2 Pro and it printed like a dream. This is going to save me so much time!
I have been doing that a month after my first print. Also, some slicers like lyche lets you tweak the lift height, so by lowering that it also lowers general time to print and resistance of the resin since it has less distance to travel at fast speed
I love this video, I am new and used to be afraid of changing default setting but I believe it moves way too slow. My prints with an aproximate speed of 240 look the same in quality that prints of 60 but being able to print them in almost half the time is incredible. I wish future 3D printers are made to make quicker prints.
*THANK YOU* so much Uncle Jessy for Supporting my track "Inner Soul" on this 3D Printing video 💎💖💖💖🎶
truly appreciate your support! Take care and stay safe, wishing the best this year 🤞✨
Amazing tune! Thanks for sharing it with the world!
(ok look ((
I have been"vrooming" for a month or so, and the only negative I have seen is that my supports hold on much better - making cleanup/scarring a bigger issue. Still, if I can cut 3 hours off a 12 hour print, an extra 10 minutes cleaning up the model is worth it.
Have you changed your FEP tension? If not and you tune it what frequency do you use?
@@Loasdrums2 Honestly, I have been so careful with my FEP that I'm going on a year and a half, and haven't had to change it out yet - so I don't know. :)
@@komsomoletz828 wow I’m in my 3rd in as many months. That are cheep and easy to change
In my Mars and Mars 2 Pro I keep the FEP around 340hz +/- 5hz. Much further than that I get failures. I also run a thinner layer height between 0.02mm and 0.03mm.
Do you honestly feel the machine is designed for this ? there will be flow on effects to the rest of the machine for oc.
I've been printing at 240mm/s on the E10 with vroom settings for a few days now. Been working great. Estimates have been far off, but I'm getting about 25% better speeds.
I've been hearing about this on various fb groups and have been testing settings myself. I finally had my first success! 2.5 hours for a 1080 layer print. Will be comparing my settings with yours - thank you!!
Impressive prints
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😊
That's awesome that you shared all your settings!
Yeppers! Hoping that helps others try it out.
Jessy
Just let you know I have tried this settings on my Saturn and Elegoo Mars. They worked great. I didn’t update any of the firmware. And the prints were awesome. The Vroom were great. Thanks
when the mars appeared beside him i had to do a double-take to see if I was going crazy. Nice effect.
yes doing full speed on my side for a month, and it does work well.
thanks a lot for all the tips related to gcode etc, awesome !
Thanks for that interesting setup. I'm interested in eliminating warps that happens after printing. There's so many videos of how to's on print settings, but none for printed parts. Especially thin parts. Thanks
Thanks for the great video! Vroom for the win.
Vroom vroom go the prints
Heck yeah I've been testing my Mars 2 Pro at 300 and it's a huge time saver.
Thanks Uncle Jessie, just wondering what setting you used for the siraya fast resin? I have had quite good results with saturn and vroom settings but I feel like my exposure times aren't quite as dialed in as yours
Loving those transitions between the different machines at the beginning of the video! Nice work!
🙃 got the idea from one of Tom’s latest videos
@@UncleJessy Looks great! 😀
Wow!!! Sure I'll try this afternoon
Thank you, solid info
Good information! Thanks for this.
Thanks man
Wouldn't this depend on the resin you're using? For example Sirayatech Blu is really thick, viscous, so I actually have to slow down my lift speed to print with it. Phrozen's 4K resin is really thin so I can speed it up.
13:01 got me a little spooked with the "55 hour" print time especially because I have a Saturn. Great video very helpful!
This shaved me a LOT of printing time 😅 thank you!
Uncle Jessy, I'm trying to get into 3d printing as a whole. I am really leaning for a resin 3d printer as I don't mind the clean up and curing process. What I mainly want the 3d printer is for miniatures, busts and stuff in that regard, but I am also really interested in making the occasional facemask like the half kabuki mask you have shown off. Which printer would you recommend for someone like me now that there are so many options? right now, I'm leaning towards the Mars 2 pro, but I doubt i can make face masks with it's smaller size.
Vroom is working fine on the Mono X at 240 mm/s. The printer doesn't require any Gcode modification. It was for a large print.
Atlas group is fantastic. So many printing experts over there. They even have a Vroom board of its own. :D From what I hear over there, they've been printing Vroom 24/7 with no adverse effects to machines. I've been printing Vroom for a few weeks now on the old school Mars and results/time savings are fine(with some exposure time tweaking too) Have an SM4K arriving any day now, so going to fit it with an Nfep to relieve some of the vacuum from Vroom.
Probably only affect the lift motor and drivers heating up more. Retraction speed affects the peeling forces on the FEP sheet. Yanking it off the FEP will affect the support structures adhesion.
hi jessy did you ever needed to change screen on one of your pinters if so could you show how and did it effect some how on your prints
I wonder if it makes a difference what firmware version you have when checking the gcode changes?
Good stuff! I've been printing with faster speeds like that too but when it gets colder I've found keeping the bottom lift speed lower helps keep failures to a minimum, unless you're printing in your warm house or in a heated enclosure (I'm in the garage).
One of the few times I'm glad to live in Arizona...
thanks for the tip
Nice. And for the M2 Pro just changing the settings in the slicer is sufficient? So no fiddleing with firmware or something?
Phrozen Sonic Mini here, I've been printing almost 24-7 for the past 3-4 weeks with Vroom @ 300 - didn`t change any gcode or firmware so it could be capped at a lower speed (just went 300 and didn`t bother). Thanks to the faster time I was also able to cut down the lights off, shaving a second away as well as reducing my exposure by close to 10% (.2 seconds) as the results appeared to show a slightly higher exposure. Since I changed my damaged stock Fep I haven`t had a single failure. Considerably faster and flawless results is quite a win!
Hi, are you still using VROOM?
Is the speed of 300 great without SM4K gcode firmware?
@@user-pl6jk2qm2b haven't printed in a while but it worked really well without any FW change on my mini non 4k
@@VoicelessScream Thank you for answer. I'll have to try it too.
Great video....Where can I get the Geisha STL file?Thank you
I print mostly very detailed small minaitures. Everything faster than 45mm/s lift speed is like rolling a dice even with PTFE spray on the FEP. I rather have a print that takes a few hours longer but actually comes out looking perfect than having a faster print with 50% failures. This could work quite well when printing directly on the buildpalte without supports though. It's usually the fine supports that break away when the lift speed is too high. Also: In the pictures the damage from high lift speed is clearly visible at 7:24
Hey Jessy, awesome video! Have you printed anything by Dark Gods on MMF? I would be happy to give you some super detailed files to test!
Any info on setting up a Creality LD-002R for Vroom? Google search did not reveal anything.
i've been using increased z-speeds on my mono-x for about a month with no issues with siraya tech fast grey
for some others resins I have had to modify the support settings I assume this is because the siraya tech fast has a little give where alot of other resins are stiffer
thank you Ive been searching for hours trying to understand the setting no one is talking about online other than Facebook on retract, lift and speed
hola! he puesto el vroom como en velocidad 180 que parece más estable. Una pregunta, estos días se me han caído de los soportes algunas piezas, siempre del lado izquierdo de la placa, los soportes han salido pero la figura se cayó, ¿incrementando la exposición de las capas de resolverá? la he nivelado ya 3 veces
I have the Creality LD-006, yet to find out how to implement Vroom settings. Changing the settings within Chitubox has little effect on print times, so presuming it'll need the Gcode modifying.
Hi there, what exposure time (not lower) would you recommend for layer height 0.015 on Mars 2 pro mono with standard elegoo grey resin ?
I could find info for 0.05 layer height and this is in Chitubox as standard but for that low height i could not find any info.
is there a link to Ian Strainers breakdown of the Gcode parameters in english? I looked for it on the Saturn facebook group and didn't find anything.
Are you still using a rainx coating on your fep??
I did this without knowing vroom, is because when i am tesing Saturn and MonoX, i found out MonoX is 30-45mins faster than Saturn with the default setting. i found out MonoX is having 4mm/s (240mm/min) lift speed and retract speed. So i applied 240mm/s to the Saturn, it went much faster!. Also i tested for 300mm/s, going too fast somehow shake off my print. so probably 200mm/s for saturn is safe to go, MonoX leave it 240-280mm/s.
FYI, Saturn do have better print quality compare the MonoX.
I know you did one print in the Fast resin but do you think that the print that failed on the Saturn at 240 would have better results with the Fast resin given that the Fast resin is for fast printing?
Would the actual print time be different compared to slicer preview time estimate?
I guess Anycubic sets this by default now. I just got a Mono a couple of weeks ago and Photon Workshop had settings of 240 for both lifts and 360 for retraction (well, technically, 4 and 6 because it's per second, not per minute in Photon Workshop). I just transferred those settings over to Chitubox and it's been printing great. I didn't realise it wasn't normal or there was a special term for these kinds of speeds until I saw this, heh.
incase i missed it have you got a video of replacing the fep on the mars 3 ? =D im sooo sketchy about doing it haha
I'd love an update for Lychee v4 and Mars 3 Pro. It'd be a good time to see how it's been printing at these speeds over 12 months.
I getting some sticking to the FEP it seems on my LD002r, even after putting on a new FEP???
I might have missed it, but do you need to change the G code on the Mars printer if you are just going to update the slicer settings?
Can you make a mars 2 pro/saturn setup video?
will this also work on the Photon Zero ? thanks in advance :)
8:02 - Darth Maul after tragic yet comical falling grand piano incident.
🤣😂
any chance of a follow upon this?
any printer durability issues pop up?
Has anyone tried this on Anycubic Photon (just the settings adjustments not the code changing) with any success?
Great video as usual! Even though I STILL have not broken down and bought a resin printer (so messy) I was curious why the speed increases were done straight across the board as one number rather than doing a percentage? I guess the retract speed would be nuts but maybe limit the speeds to a max cap and say try 200% increase so at time stamp 7:00 (made that one nice didn't ya lol) you show 90,100,150 for speeds so try 180,200,300 rather than straight 240 or whatever.
Maybe it is a dumb question (refer to the name and maker coin as I am an idiot)....??
Does Vroom setting work with EPAX E10-4K mono and any other types of resins. I am under the impression that other than the Siraya fast resins they need long cure time? Or am I totally wrong in that line of thought?
I know the video is a year old but I just sew it today. For the first Mars I used the settings from the rook file which came with the printer and the liftsettings there are at 300. So I think you can go that fast with all the Mars printers. Since I used those settings all prints came out nicely, no damage on the screen or whatsoever. I think Lychee is the better slicer and prints which I struggled to print with Chitubox came out great with Lychee. I dont know whats the difference but I dont go back to Chitubox anymore.
Question! Is retact speed the same as lower speed? Trying to follow your steps but Lychee looks a little different now than when this was posted. Thanks!
Have you done any saturn profiles for lychee???
Anyone know if the EPAX E10 will work with these higher lift speed settings, or do I need to tweak GCode or firmware as well? Thanks in advance.
There's a mechanical limit to how fast the steppers will move, so no matter what you change it to, eventually you'll hit the mechanical limit. On my original Mars, reliability went down as speed went up, so pretty marginal gains.
Based on my experiences with an Epax x1K, success with vroom (again, for me) came down to thickness of supports and type of resin. Started with SirayaTech Fast, very inconsistent results. When I swapped to Epax Hard (grey), I noticed a dramatic increase in success. I think I’ve only had one (partial) fail in two straight weeks of printing. Running @240 lift and 1.8s exposure.
Got a link to the gcode mod?
Have you tried this on the Phenom?
Any vroom settings for the saturn 2?
So may i ask why your Exposure time on the Mars 2 Pro is 2.5s, where the Saturn is 2.8s? Isnt the Saturn the bigger more powerful machine.
Also what FEP do you use Jesse?
Quality seems to fall off in a very predictable manner as you increase speed, at least on the Mars machines.
What printer do you think last the longest before needing new screen or fep?
The current rev of Chitubox (1.9.1 Basic) for my M2P has a additional box next to the settings that UJ suggest. Is there any new additional settings that also need to be entered for those spots? Currently using his 180 speed suggestion and getting fine prints but I'm not noticing any real significant time savings. But I'd rather have successful prints over a quicker fail any day.
Biggest takeaway: not all supports are created equal. Resin can factor into it, but supports... Did you try any larger prints on the Mars aside from Darth Maul? I don't recall seeing a time for the non-VROOM print but I imagine the time savings would be slightly better than those observed for the Amerilabs Town prints. One thing I noticed when I first received my Epax X9 mono was that it spent more time moving the plate than curing the resin so I've been playing around with this for a while, I just never knew it had a name. And due to some less than stellar presupports, I've kept my lift speeds modest but I believe my retract speeds are 300 on the X9 and ~210 on the LD-002R with 35 and 40 mm/min lift speeds, respectively, and I've not noticed too many issues across a variety of resins and presupports but Greg, I love that guy, as I've never had an issue with nearly any of his supported minis with lift speeds of 100+.
Great video, thanks for the info and this goes a long way towards debunking somet of the info I was first given when expressing concern over failed presupported prints.
Need to do a VROOM Saturn 3 ULtra video, hint, hint. Great video btw.
Lovely
Anyone know if those this mod still works on the latest firmware for the M2P?
Did you try hollow vs full fill?
Has this been tried on the Peopoly Phenom? If so how well does it hold tolerances? Thanks so much for sharing, I always love your videos.
My guess is this will not work as well on the larger printers like the phenom. The forces involved with really large prints are much higher and adding speed makes them worse
I was pondering about the exact same thing when I did my first prints on the E10. The print speed was not that impressive, O yes - exposure times go from 8 s on my Photon to 3 s on the E10 but I still measure 10 s per layer because of the slow lift speed. I was not only looking at the lift speed but also at the lifting distance. This is set to 7 mm for the E10 and looking/listening at the action during printing I think that 5mm would be enough for most of my prints. The 7 to 5 mm change reduces my print times from ~13 to ~10 hours
As always YMMV and I will definitely stay with the lower speeds for prints that have a large contact area - ripping a FEP sheet while the vat is in the printer is not a fun thing to do ...
Is it work with anycubic photon mono?
I'm assuming the trade off with this is that parts will degrade quicker?
Have you tried these settings on the newer Machines like the Saturn 2 ?
YOOOOOOO where you get that sonic stl file?! i love sonic especialy the movie and would love to have that figure
14:20 Do you think the wobble might have been the Wham Bam plate shifting? I haven't installed mine on my Saturn yet, just because I I haven't printed full plate models yet and hear some folks having an issue here and there with it.
The only time I've notice slippage of the wham bam plate is if I get resin between the plate and the magnet when putting the flex plate back on after a print. Uncured resin is very slippery, so I always make sure to use a bit of IPA to clean the magnet and both sides of the plate before I re-install it. Haven't had any problems.
Will this work with the Mars Pro?
7:26 So why was the 240 lift model squished at all?
Thanks for the shout out for the (g.code)
With my settings I increase the exposure to 3.2 seconds for 0.05mm layer height.
Other setting I like to play with are to reduce M8016 from I3 to I1 - this improves second home speed.
And reduce M8021 from S1.7 to S0.6 this will reduce the distance of the slow retract speed, reducing print times.
Great channel 👍
Hey im new into 3d Printer, i bought a Elegoo Mars 2 Pro last Month, and i have the Waterwashable Resin from Elegoo.
Can i use ur Settings too for my Prints? Or is this not Working? Because i have another Resin.
been using vroom settings on my saturn since a while; game changer...someone says vroom shortens your lcd screen lifespan since the faster speed doesn't give time to the screen to cool down between layers...but i'm printing in a room where the temperature is around 10°C so I don't worry about overheating
Does the Saturn need G-Code changes?
what resin do you use?
Is there any way to do this with Lychee Slicer? I've been trying for the better part of an hour to find the proper settings but I can't find squat. Is this just something exclusive to Chitubox and other slicers?
ehi Uncle Jesse as an fyi it seems that the default chitubox 1.8 beta has, for the monoX, speed already set at 180/180/240
Adjust your light off delay on the saturn and try the 240mm setting again
2 years late but I am having issue with the Eastwood prints. I downloaded the files to my Anycubic Mono Proton 4k stick and sliced them. Did not change any settings and the very first print failed. It did seems that the lift speed was way to fast and the exposure time was to low. May adjust the exposure up .5s and lower lift speed by 1mm/s
Not sure if this is due to this but changed the settings and, Creality LD-002H FEP failed, Sonic Mini 4k FEP Failed and I need a full screen cleaning, Voxelab Proxima acting very scary so I've reverted it as FEP was geting some divots
I've got saturn 2 and mono 2 the same speed settings that never fail now there 60/150 amd a hight for smaller parts 7 and larger parts 9 to hear that fep release sound! These are absolutely perfect for my printer's not to slow either really Tbh! Saving 40minwnfrom a 5hr print to have a fail at these 240 speeds is it worth it?! It's not to me, what's an extra 40 mins if waited that long only to possibly have a failure somewhere
Hey uncle jess, can you give me any advice about my wham bam plate, the magnet fell off after only 3 prints.
Did you properly follow the instructions to put it on the build plate? Scuffed the plate with the sandpaper, cleaned it with iso alcohol well, let it fully dry, stuck the magnet on the build plate and let it cure the full 72 hours BEFORE using it?
Do you Think in future the speed of 3d printing will Be Improved ?? i want to buy resin printer but i fear next year some new technology come with better speed
maaan i am having nothing but failures since vroom. just going to go back to my og settings. just happy to have nice prints and okay with waiting the time. too many unpainted mini's anyway lol
I'm curious to see what the long term effects of this is on both the mechanical side and the FEP itself. Not saying this isn't a good idea when tuned properly, it may not effect it at all, or if it does, the overall drop in longevity may be weighed out by the time saved benefit considering the relatively low cost of these resin machines.
for reference.. 240mm/m is the speed reccomended in the manual of the mono 4k
Trying to think of a good way to ask this in a way that makes sense but, I would imagine, if you are moving the build plate back down and displacing the resin the resin would still be in motion for the next light on layer. Wouldn't you want to have a dwell time to allow the resin to become static? Not saying so much for supports or even hollow prints but more for large surface area prints.
That setting is called “light off delay”.
what would be settings for a photon