Jessy, didn't you make a video on LCD screens failures? I wonder if this could be a piece of the puzzle. I'm going to try different settings to see what happens.
@@velveteenv76 I've been using 4 bottom layers at 100 seconds with regular exposure at 10 seconds on a Photon using Polyjuice resin (water soluble resin). I have great results, prints come off my plate easy with a plastic scrapper. I'm going to try setting my bottom exposure to 50 seconds and see what happens.
I find with water washable resin I have to go with significantly higher exposure settings and higher bottom layer settings otherwise I see more failures.
I'm new to resin, only been printing SLA for about a week; but veteran FDM guy. You have been a patron Saint to resin printing for me. I'm using all of your support settings and I do 4-5 bottom layers at no more than 6x my normal exposure times. Since doing that I no longer need a jack hammer to release my prints and they all turn out amazing!
I wish I had seen this 3 days ago when I just got my Photon Mono X. In 3 days of following many examples, I have found almost nobody knows anything with any certainty. I now have a gouge in my bed plate where an 80 second bottom layer exposure, cooked a raft on that required extreme chiseling at it to remove it. My FEP is scratched by tissue paper from cleaning, and has many marks where parts had been cooked onto it, and a couple of failures that attached to the FEP so well I marked up the FEP with the plastic spatula.
Wish I saw this video before I started printing a week ago. I knew my times were too high but the big difference and other people advise threw me off. You sir are a legend, please keep up uploading videos like this. Thanks so much!!!!!
I've used your settings for the photon with elegoo grey for since i started this journey... have reduced to 5 bottom layers @ 55sec without any issues at all. Love what you're doing you're channel is my #1 recommended resource for new resin 3d printers
You have no idea how grateful I am to have stumbled upon this video. Just got a new Photon Mono X. Struggled on first few prints. As soon as watched this my confidence went up I feel like I know where to begin. UV Power 80% Exposure: 2.4 Bottom 6 layers Bottom Exposure: 15sec Prints came out perfect. It's attached quite hard to the plate, I will try 12 sec, 3 layers on the bottom next. Thank you so much.
I bought a used QIDI Tech Shadow 5.5s as my first resin printer. My first prints had divots, and one large print had a hole all the way through. Turns out the LCD screen had a bad spot about 4mm in diameter. I have a replacement screen on order, and you can bet I'll be doing some test prints with fewer bottom layers and shorter exposure times!
Your suggestion about leveling fixed all my issues. I knew the lift plate was right, but when i dropped a level on top of the machine i realized the table wasn't. Leveled it out and everything has been coming out great since. THANKS!
You're a lifesaver!!! I'm still only a few weeks in, and only just got prints to stop sticking to the FEP literally like 3 days ago. One of the things I tried in my desperation was to increase exposure times. Upon reading someone's reddit post, I increased my bottom layer from Elegoo's recommended 35 seconds for this resin, to... 90!!! Luckily I've only done 3 prints with this setting so far-- this video came at a perfect time! I'm going back to Elegoo's "official" recommendation of 35 seconds for the time being, then when I'm more experienced and my prints are less likely to fail, I'll drop it lower. Thank you!! I'm surprised this isn't talked about more!!!
I have Anycubinc mono m5 at our lab. The best normal exposure time I found by calibration is around 2.75-3 Sec with the default resin. Also having 3-4 bottom layers with exposure time of 20 sec works really well for medium samples. If the bottom exposure times is 15, the smaples do not stick. If I have the default settings, sometimes some samples become really hard to get off the bed. Specially if the shapes bottom surface is too flat. Also I think having a very large exposure time for bottom layers will give you a bigger elephant foot effect on initial layers. It may matter to some people that need details on the initial layers for some reason.
I am on an Elegoo Mars and when printing smaller items on the plate and multiple, they do not stick. I am currently running a trial of 5 layers at 100s. 5 layers at 20/30/40/50/60/70 didnt work. Normal exposure time is 8s so going by X12 I should be at 96 max. Pulling my hair out with the lack of adhesion. :(
Since you mention some reservations about broaching this subject, for what it's worth this was extremely helpful for me to hear as a newcomer to 3d. I haven't cleared my first month of SLA printing yet and as you mention, most conventional wisdom seems to favor brutal exposure times which for me has just resulted in prints stuck so hard to the build plate I practically have to chisel them off. Not knowing any better I've simply been grateful to the Micro Center employee who encouraged me to purchase a flex plate. In the last couple weeks I have contemplated reducing exposure time only to conclude this must be poorly reasoned newbie impulses at work-and the result has been prints on unreasonably tall supports that I can just break off without damaging the important bit when I begin excavating the build plate. I assumed everybody must be putting up with this and it's just a cost-of-doing-business thing. So this video helped me understand a bit more of the mechanics and settings, and also realize that if I'm questioning something it might warrant more research to determine if a specific piece of advice is actually right for my particular scenario. Thanks!
Waiting for mye first resin printer. This info is GOLDEN. The ritual to get to know what to do and what not do to while You wait is underrated. Knowledge ahead of impatience to get started
Thank you for this video! After watching it I changed the settings on both my new Mars 2 Pros and my Original Mars Pros. Reduced my Mars Pros to 60 seconds (from 75) and down to 4 layers from 8. On my Mars 2 Pros I went from 35 second bottom layers to 12 seconds and 4 layers from 8. The settings work great! I used to have to almost hammer the prints off the Mars 2 Pros and now it is much better. Thanks again!
Thanks Arcane. Will try this settings on my Mars Pro 2 as well. I am only just starting but it was a pain in the ass to take the prints off the plate : )
thats good to know, I just bought a M2P myself and the rook test print was so stuck i actually had to force it out by hand because i accidentally scratched the plate with the spatula, I'm going to maybe reprint the rook with these settings and then test it on a miniature
@@viniciusfrj I'm just as new as you. Definitely going to support the rook with a 10° tilt before printing because I see people complain about the flat base sticking all the time.
So this is is a great vid, but what I did find on the industrial level printing options, the Elegoo Jupiter Printer and large scale printers come defaulted with a set 30 second bottom exposure time and a 3 second layer time. This just leads to non stop failures with the initial test prints. I ended up bumping them up to 90 for the bottom exposure and then 6 to the layers. Fixed the issue. Especially on bigger machines and larger prints I was super surprised that was what the baseline Jupiter stats was. Love the channel!
I think this is pretty solid advice, and the problem is that chitubox is putting in pretty high bottom exposures as well. I started out with the basics from chitubox at 40s exposure on 6 layers. Now the miniatures stuck to the build plate just fine, but I could hardly get them off and had to use extreme force to get them off. Common sense told me that it shouldn't work like that, and I started lowering the time. So far I have had 0 print failures concerning build plate adhesion and have dropped to 30s over a few printing sessions. However looking at this video I am gonna drop my settings even more and see how easily I can remove them afterwards (though they pop off reasonably already now). Thanks for this video, keep it up!
EXCELLENT POINT John! In addition (from the source:-) I would like to add. Three (3) long exposure layers are more than enough. If anyone has a non-sticking issue I urge you to increase the "elephant foot" or the "raft". Basically you should increase the area of the first three layers. Let's say that you should build a island on which you're going to build your model. Now, time wise... Everything that is more than 4-times more than a normal layer is OVERKILL and DANGEROUS!!!!! Let's examine a bit a mechanism of photo-polymerization. As said number of times polymerization is an exothermic reaction. Meaning that during the transition from liquid to solid state a LOTS of heat is generated from your resin alone! Now to that heat add the heat from UV irradiation and you have troubles on two fronts! One being your LCD ant the other being your FEP film. FEP film is ALREADY under stress because is under tension. When you heat it you make it softer and more "rubbery"... to the point that you get wrinkles. LCD on the other hand got it's undesirable heat from the bottom from UV irradiation and heat convection from "UV brick/heatsink" and from the top from resin due to polymerization. Think of LCD life as a rubber band. If you stretch it to let's say 60% of the maximum you could do that almost indefinitely. But stretch that band three times to the max extension ...and the fourth time is a goner! GOT IT?!?!? So, bottom line... use max 3-bottom layers, use a large raft , use max 3x normal layer time for the first layers. One trick that we use often is to use a "clean" function for making a first layer! The clean function is a method to expose the entire build area. This way you make a film of cured resin that might grab some residual semi-cured or floating flakes. Of course you engage in a cleaning function without a build plate. The trick is to lower your build plate to the bottom. Perform a cleaning exposure and then you proceed with your usual printing with a cured first layer already on your build plate.
Great video and lots of wisdom to take advantage of. Think you could share a bit more of numbers please? From the video I gather 6 bottom layers should be more than enough. If my exposure is 2.2 secs then the bottom exposure should be anywhere around 10 to 14 secs. What about transition layers, light off delay, etc?? Thanks for your time
Wish i had discovered your channel and video before i burnt out my screen. I've been using 60 seconds for bottom layer on my creality Ld002r. Now I've got burnt spotty screen. Nevertheless better late than never, it's a continuous learning experience and thank you people like you for sharing wisdom and learnings.
Definitely going to switch my settings immediately. I've been forced to overexpose just a bit at 9.25 seconds (normal exposure) for elegoo grey on a standard mars. This pretty much insures success even on the most sensitive pre-supported patreons. However, my bottom layers remain at 8 and 70 seconds! After watching this I realize I might be overdoing it a bit. My printer is only a few weeks old so I'm very happy to have found this info early on! Many thanks my friend, and I am looking forward to the final days of your kickstarter. I backed that one without hesitation, keep up the great work!
just got my first SLA printer (Photon Mono X), saw this video and been testing today. final setting have been bottom exposure: 30, bottom layer: 5 with a 1.8-2.2 normal exposure time. i was initially doing 2.2 normal, 50-60 bottom exposure and 8 bottom layers. thanks for the great advice!
I am one of those who does a higher base and curing time for base layers and 9 layers and 90-120s well I do extrusion sometimes as well. And the kind of resin varies. However, I tried to use your sitting after I saw this video and you know what, at a certain level for 4-60s the print stick to the vet and left the print plate at 60mm hight. I increased it to 8-90s and happens again at a 120 mm level. So it's really relevant to how big your print hight and the base connection raft as well , this is a heavier print. Thanks for your videos and the time and effort you put in there.
I use elegoo grey resin on a longer orange 30. My standard layer time is 8 seconds. When I was running 6 bottom layers with 60 second exposure time I was having a large problem with the lower parts of the minis warping or the prints failing completely. I upped the exposure time to 80 seconds and haven't had a failed print or warping problem since. I'm experimenting with fewer bottom layers but having each layer cover more of the build plate with an adhesion pad.
This video was recommended to me in a timely manner, had just had a few failures so was contemplating jacking up the bottom layers and exposure time. Thanks for the warning.
i got my 3d printer a little over a year ago. the first few prints were ok, some messes ups, but over all worked out well. Idk what it is but I'm having the hardest time getting anything to print. I'm going to try some of this tips and hope it helps. 🤞
Gonna experiment with the mini 4k right now. I had a suspicion my base exposure times were too high because sometimes prints were sticking *too* well to the build plate. I'll report back with my results.... EDIT! follow up below: I have tried a few times now, and 5 base layers with a bottom layer exposure time of 10 seconds gives me a good amount of adhesion while also allowing prints come off very nicely. Thanks for the tip Greg!
@@unifiedmongoose7915 Sorry for the suuuuper late reply. This will vary from manufacture to manufacture. I was just following Phrozen's instructions. I know some manufacturers have started "texturing" their build plates straight from the factory.
I've only been printing a week on my 1st resin machine, a Mono X. The machine came set at 100% UV power and the software defaults to 8x 40 seconds on bottow layers. Everything printed at these settings was impossible to remove without breaking. After lots of test prints I've found 4x 17s bottom layers and 2.7 seconds is perfect for Monocure rapid clear.
I'm printing small pieces on 30um layers.. the resin I'm using is elegoo 8k standard.. and the printer is a saturn 2. Layer exposure times on that configuration is like.. 1.8 seconds. But the bottom layers, if I multiply that by 5 or 6.. it simply won't do it peels off. So it's on 15 seconds now. Never printed many heavy things with that config yet but the bottom raft layer is pretty soft..
I toyed around with the xp2 test and anything less than 17 seconds (normal exposure 2.8) I would get separation from the build plate. I'm at 4-6 bottom layers, mono x
Yes I agree I've been listening to many different sources about resin 3D printing and the information they're giving regarding curing settings is all over the place a lot of these content creators are transitioning from filament printing and not quite experts in their own right on resin printing
I found for my printer (QIDI S-Box) Bottom layer count 5/Bottom exposure time 60 seconds in colder weather, summer time I use bottom layer count 4/Bottom exposure 50 seconds in summer months. I have also found that I remove the build plate and I rinse the bottom portion of the print off with IPA PRIOR to any attempt at removing model. Have not had any issues at this point.
Im using a Mars 2 Pro with a mono screen, and normally Elegoo water washable resin. Elegoos reccd settings are 5 layer base exposed at 35 secs, then 2 secs a layer. Seems to work sweet as a nut for me even with "big chunky" prints that have a lot of surface to lift. Great base adhesion, no base peel, but clicks right off with a nudge at the edge at the end of the run. Water washable has different settings to normal resin so the settings for normal would be different. The 2 Pro Mono is a massive step forward IMHO....very impressed.
I am using siraya tech fast navy grey. My printer is an epax e10 . I checked the seting from the siraya tech site there recommend settings are 30s initial exposure, 5 layers and 2.5s for the rest on a Mars 2 pro. I could not find settings for the e10. My print room is also at the low end of recommended (20c) the site recommends increasing initial layers exposure time to compensate. I am using 4 initial layers at 25s and 2.5s regular exposure. I have only done 3 prints and no fails but don’t want to destroy my lcd.
I gotta thank you, Im pretty new to resin printing, and I set up my settings useing your support setting and set my printer useing this method and haven't had an issue since . Supports just come off with a touch and model pops off build plate no issues, no more struggle. I use Monocure3d rapid resin.
I'm dealing with a strange issue on my printer that I have not found the best solutions for, but having watched this video I'm thinking you might have hit the nail on the head! I did not have settings dialed up incredibly high but they were higher than necessary for sure.
Wow! This is incredible. It works!!! Thanks so much for this video. Everybody kept telling me to up the exposure to ensure sticking to the build plate. Don't need it and this is waaaay faster.
Thanks. Have a Mars and use water washable resin. Going to print some mini heads and use your settings. May have to stick with 14s exposure, 8s was giving me soft minis that would easily break while trimming off the supports. Shouldn't have that problem with heads, don't have lot's of small bits sticking out. Going to go with 0.025 mm slices to see if the details improve much.
This wasn't the video I was looking for (somehow got here after trying to find if I need to replace my FEP yet or not) but this is absolutely the information I needed to know in the long run. I recently turned my settings up to match someone else because I was having issues with printing, glad to know it could cause harm. And I'm pretty sure the issues I am having with my prints are more due to rising speed anyway. Thanks for the vid.
Just had a guy in a group post a screenshot of his settings, 8 bottom layers, 70s exposure, 13s exposure for normal layers. He said he got the settings off his bottle of resin, they really need to stop printing those on the bottles. It's insane
The stock settings in the photon Mono X manual states 40sec bottom time exposure and 1.5sec for anycubic resin. Any thoughts on this ? I printed the sample cube with their loooong 40sec exposure time and it printed perfectly - but id rather save the machines LCD if possible
@@RH3D I printed a few things with reduced time and they didnt print as well. I printed the quality test plate which many videos use as a base on youtube, and the best quality came out with a 20sec exposure time for the first 4 layers, and then 1.2sec exposure for the rest -- i looked through a magnifying glass to compare the test prints from 2.5sec, 2.2sec, 1.8sec, 1.5sec, and 1.2sec -- Then when i printed a parts using the same settings, the print failed completely - so i went back to 40sec exposure for the first layers, and 2sec for the rest abd the very same print worked 100%
I used a default setting which used 6 bottom layers and 40 seconds exposure time each, I changed it to 4 layers with 15 seconds exposure time each. Hope it works out
Seems like bigger bases need less exposure on the first layers because the surface area they cover takes more face to remove when applying vertical force. The smaller the base, the less vertical force it would take to remove, and the more you need it to stick, thus higher exposure times. Also, the number of layers most likely depends on your layer height. The thicker the layers, the less number of them you need. There is a relation to all these settings and really the slicer software should be able to lock them together as they do with scaling ratios as an option (check box).
Burn into fep is EXACTLY what happened to me using black resin. Thank you so much for this information! The high layer count and high time is exactly what I've been guilty of!!! Im gunna use your advice and see what happens. Thanks Greg!!
Great video. Thanks for explaining everything well and showing your settings. I had been having trouble getting good prints with my printer with lots of fails and ruined films. Adjusted to settings near yours and was blown away with how much better my prints today was. Thanks for helping me learn and to enjoy my printer again
I recently printed a fairly large space ship model with a photon mono x (over 500ml so i had to refill the vat mid print) First attempt was failed due to too few supports 2nd try was a success with iirc 8 layers but only 10 seconds exposure compared to my 3 seconds while printing (solid grey resin because of the first failed Print used up too much of my clear resin for another try) The bottom layers held like a champ
This works fine for me. Just got an Epax E10 and used Siraya Blu for my first resin. Exposure test showed 5.1s was best, and I'm using 18s exposure for bottom layers, and 4 bottom layers. Just printed a huge piece and it came out great, no failures, not build plate separation.
Good to know this. I have not printed a model yet as I am researching fully before I print and to try an avoid failure . I am doing my first print tonight. Any tips on using the Anycubic photon 4k with this bottom exposure? Also watched all your vids on supports.
On my EPAX x10 mono the factory recommended bottom exposure time was 25+ seconds. I believe Greg runs as low as 14, but I was having some issues that low, and I’ve lowered my normal prints to 20 seconds / 4 layers, and it’s been consistently working perfectly for about 30 hours now.
I'm at 80s bottom layer time with 10s normal exposure time. I started at 60s bottom layer time and increased to 70, then 80 and now I get very few failures and prints scrape off pretty easily. I have 6 bottom layers and have been thinking about reducing this - now maybe I will go to 4 I've actually been wondering why anyone would need to do more than 1 bottom layer? There's only 1 layer that's sticks to the plate and if it doesn't stick, then the 2nd layer isn't going to stick also!
That's what I was thinking about bottom layers. Layers 2,3,4 etc. are just sticking to the first layer so do they really do anything extra by being so over exposed. I might try some experimenting with a tiny print.
I think most people do a lot of layers/bottom exposure time because when they are new to printing, they fail the first time, then when they go to the internet to ask for help the first thing they find is an excel sheet that show best settings for each type of resin. For the anycubic [for example], that sheet suggests 8 layers at 120 bottom exposure. They give that a try, and it works. So they don't question it anymore and start printing like that forever.
been running 10 bottom layers at 60 seconds. had some issues with stuff sticking a while ago, but lately found stuff been very tricky to get off the plate. I'm going to try and trim down a little.
Thanks for the suggestions on changing the bottom layer times. I’m fairly new to resin printing and I e noticed my prints are difficult to come off sometimes. I will try lowering the length of exposure time. As for the layers, I have mine (Creality Halot) set to 3 bottom layers.
Anycubic mono with 2 second exposure, doing 6 bottom layers at 20 seconds with no adhesion issues, and clean separation. Now I'm going to try ratcheting it down to 12seconds and see how it goes!
Thank you for this! I tried your suggestion with a little apprehension, but it worked for me! I had always just used the default of 60s per bottom layer but now I can save half the time with my resin. Again thanks!
On my sonic mini, I've been using a 3.5s exposure time and 4 bottom layers for a while now, but with a 25 second bottom layer exposure time (6.25x). No issues, at all. I'm going to try setting it to 18, to get it closer to 5x the normal exposure time, and see how it goes. Thanks for the video!
You have had the most informative channel for Resin printing and just want to say thank you for doing what you do. I new to this and you've made my transition from FDM so much smoother. Plus I like how "Real" you are about each subject and not to "Sciency" LoL Just got the new Photon Mono and loving what this machine can do and how much faster it prints compared to the LDR002.
Dude I had 2 fails last night, stuck to fep screen. I’m trying this tonight. Just small rings I’m printing as practice for supports and what not. Excited to see if it works
Good Day Mr Pro. Trust you are well. i am a new printer but brint in the Dentakl fiels. i have run into some problems and not to sure how to get it sorted out. Please can you maybe assist me with this if you have the time. i print with Harz Clear pro 50 micron for surgical guide, it is a very thick resin. I get these funny little nipple like protrusions when i take the supports off, its like a little tent where the support was like the pulling forces are to much. do you maybe have an idea what it could be. any assistance would be appreciated. Thank You
The resin can heat up past 200C when exposed to UV, if only for a moment during the curing. It generally doesn't when curing through the LCD, but if you have some on your hand or gloves while swapping screens and the light ticks on you'll know....
Very knowledgeable, man...I just got a photon mono x, beautiful machine but I'm having issues with the print starting off ok, but then about 30 to 40 layers in, it starts to stick to the fep. Using chitubox, factory settings are 6 bottom layers with a 40s burn. Getting frustrated until I seen you and Uncle jes droppin some knowledge, maybe there's hope. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. TIA!
I just got my first resin printer, not new to 3D printing (since 2013). First thing i thought of was not to over cure. 1. It will wear the screen out 2. It will pull hard on the sheet, also causing wear 3. It will pull the model apart 4. Cause warping My first print was the sample Eiffel Tower the machine came with, than a few fun ones to test it out. Compared to FDM there's much more prep and clean up work but overall machine maintenance and tuning parameters are far simpler IMO
Additional bottom layers don't make sense to me. The first bottom layer sticks to the plate so why do you need additional layers that are sticking to the first layer. How are layers 2, 3, 4 etc. helping adhesion when they aren't actually sticking to the plate. What am I missing here?
Thank you for this. I am dialing in my Mars 3 and new to resin printing and the defaults in Chitu were considerably higher. I will try the lower settings.
Oh wow thanks I’m new to 3D printing and I had high exposure like 115 thanks for the advice I could’ve screwed up my printer but luckily I came across your video
So can someone explain to me what I'm seeing at time marker 6:30? If I'm looking at the settings correctly, the light off delay isn't long enough. With the speeds set as they are the minimum light off delay would be 10 seconds or 11 seconds. That light off delay of 7 seconds would have the light coming on during the retract.
It's really great that you made this video, but the unfortunate truth is that most people using 3d printers have no idea how they work, and no interest in tweaking settings. They just go online and copy someone else's settings. Almost none of them will ever try to calibrate themselves, and when they invariably end up welding their prints to the plate, many of them run out a buy a flexible build plate like that whambam refrigerator magnet or some other gimmick thinking that's what you have to do.
I typically follow the recommendations of the bottle, starting at the lowest recommended settings. Example I use eco white resin from Anycubic a lot. Their recommendation for layer exposure is 3-15 seconds. I've found for my Anycubic Photon Mono 2k that 3 sec let prints melt into themselves, 12 secs had supports cracking miniatures when removing them and 9 secs ending up curing it enough to easily remove supports and prevent parts of the mini from sagging. so 9 secs for layer with 6 base layers at 35 seconds on eco resin is my sweet spot for my specific printer. I have some regular grey resin I need to use up and that i run the same base layers and time but layer exposure is turned down to 2 secs. After this video I may lower the bottom layer count just to try it but 6 is working well so no burning desire to change settings. I typically look at online forums, spreadsheets and compare that to the recommendations on the bottles. But again I simply look as a reference, I'm using the lowest recommendation on the bottle and increasing from there as needed. I test print a miniature base that has a large spike sticking out of it because this helps me check supports and if the layer cure time is long enough, if its too short then the large spike will collapse back down into the base. This is just how I do it, I've only been printing since Christmas so grain of salt but it works for me.
I used phrozen water washable and it needed 30 sec on the sonic mini to stick securely, I had it partially lift on a few prints until i bumped it up. Siraya I'll do 15 to 20 depending on the size of the print. My photon I was doing 60-70, I have over 800 hrs on that screen and it's still kicking.
So exposure can heat up the screen, but what about when we print in the summer and the ambient is around 90F, with the curing the resin can easily get over 100F. At what point does that start really damaging your screen? Does this apply to mono screens as well?
great video. I learned the hard way after burning two screens. I didn't know the importance of the light off time in addition to the bottom layer exposure time.
I'm using Photon mono x I need the settings for anycubic resin for dental application. Please guide me I need good details . Is there any special software for Photon Mono X other than chittubox?
Ever since I started printing(Anycubic Proton) in November I have been using water washable resin with 3 bottom layers, 55 bottom exposure, 8s layers. Have not had any problems with prints after getting the hang of supports.
I have an original Photon with elegoo grey as my go to resin, I use 3 bottom layers at 30 seconds, with 12 second layer exposure and my only failures are from supports.
Thanks for your valuable info with this vedio. I have a problem in my resin printer which is print sticks in FEB vat instead of sticking in the bed. however, I did several bed leveing according to the manufacturing instructions but still print fails and get stick in the FEB. please help and advice if you can
Thanks great video just got a new 4k photon mono x going to use 5 bottom layers at 15 secs if all goes well will reduce to 4 layers 11 secs will tell you how it goes
same i havent even printed anything yet. my printer is sitting in its box waiting for xmas day. I can't wait and am trying to learn all I can. there's so much more to this than I imagined.
Thanks for your tips! I have an AnyCubic Photon Mono (NOT SE/X). Does anyone watching this has the same printer? If so, please share with me your printing settings and tips. Thanks!
Great video! Thank you so much. Just got a Saturn and damaged my fep due to suction…I think. My Mars settings were dialed in, but those don’t work on my Saturn apparently. Any advice for Saturn settings to reduce suction on a small solid model?
At about 5:56 you mention printing larger things. I printed a tank hull just yesterday with 5 bottom layers, 45 sec Bottom Exposure Time. It worked just fine. (Mars Pro)
I use a 0,3mm height raft (when printing with supports) so normally I use 5 or 6 bottom layers with 0,06 and 0,05mm LH - wich gives 0,3mm. Exposure time is 40secs. Nromal exposure is 9sec with 0,06mm LH. Works perfect (few kgs of resin without issues) and saves resin.
Now this is a great discussion! I now need to go back through and relook at my printer settings to help try and save on my screens!
Lol, I use your settings Jess. Update video part 3 :). Thanks also Greg.
Jessy, didn't you make a video on LCD screens failures? I wonder if this could be a piece of the puzzle. I'm going to try different settings to see what happens.
@@stinkyham9050 think I have mine too high, struggle to get them off the plate a lot.
@@velveteenv76 I've been using 4 bottom layers at 100 seconds with regular exposure at 10 seconds on a Photon using Polyjuice resin (water soluble resin). I have great results, prints come off my plate easy with a plastic scrapper. I'm going to try setting my bottom exposure to 50 seconds and see what happens.
I find with water washable resin I have to go with significantly higher exposure settings and higher bottom layer settings otherwise I see more failures.
I'm new to resin, only been printing SLA for about a week; but veteran FDM guy.
You have been a patron Saint to resin printing for me. I'm using all of your support settings and I do 4-5 bottom layers at no more than 6x my normal exposure times.
Since doing that I no longer need a jack hammer to release my prints and they all turn out amazing!
I wish I had seen this 3 days ago when I just got my Photon Mono X. In 3 days of following many examples, I have found almost nobody knows anything with any certainty. I now have a gouge in my bed plate where an 80 second bottom layer exposure, cooked a raft on that required extreme chiseling at it to remove it. My FEP is scratched by tissue paper from cleaning, and has many marks where parts had been cooked onto it, and a couple of failures that attached to the FEP so well I marked up the FEP with the plastic spatula.
When did Vin Diesel get so good at 3D printing and start doing these videos?
How does he find the time 😂
Family
Wish I saw this video before I started printing a week ago. I knew my times were too high but the big difference and other people advise threw me off. You sir are a legend, please keep up uploading videos like this. Thanks so much!!!!!
I've used your settings for the photon with elegoo grey for since i started this journey... have reduced to 5 bottom layers @ 55sec without any issues at all. Love what you're doing you're channel is my #1 recommended resource for new resin 3d printers
You have no idea how grateful I am to have stumbled upon this video.
Just got a new Photon Mono X. Struggled on first few prints. As soon as watched this my confidence went up I feel like I know where to begin.
UV Power 80%
Exposure: 2.4
Bottom 6 layers
Bottom Exposure: 15sec
Prints came out perfect. It's attached quite hard to the plate, I will try 12 sec, 3 layers on the bottom next.
Thank you so much.
I bought a used QIDI Tech Shadow 5.5s as my first resin printer. My first prints had divots, and one large print had a hole all the way through. Turns out the LCD screen had a bad spot about 4mm in diameter. I have a replacement screen on order, and you can bet I'll be doing some test prints with fewer bottom layers and shorter exposure times!
Your suggestion about leveling fixed all my issues. I knew the lift plate was right, but when i dropped a level on top of the machine i realized the table wasn't. Leveled it out and everything has been coming out great since. THANKS!
You're a lifesaver!!! I'm still only a few weeks in, and only just got prints to stop sticking to the FEP literally like 3 days ago. One of the things I tried in my desperation was to increase exposure times. Upon reading someone's reddit post, I increased my bottom layer from Elegoo's recommended 35 seconds for this resin, to... 90!!! Luckily I've only done 3 prints with this setting so far-- this video came at a perfect time! I'm going back to Elegoo's "official" recommendation of 35 seconds for the time being, then when I'm more experienced and my prints are less likely to fail, I'll drop it lower. Thank you!! I'm surprised this isn't talked about more!!!
I could have never expected to have this explanation by Thanos himself!! (no pun intended). Thank you very much! checking my settings right away
I have Anycubinc mono m5 at our lab. The best normal exposure time I found by calibration is around 2.75-3 Sec with the default resin. Also having 3-4 bottom layers with exposure time of 20 sec works really well for medium samples. If the bottom exposure times is 15, the smaples do not stick.
If I have the default settings, sometimes some samples become really hard to get off the bed. Specially if the shapes bottom surface is too flat.
Also I think having a very large exposure time for bottom layers will give you a bigger elephant foot effect on initial layers. It may matter to some people that need details on the initial layers for some reason.
I am on an Elegoo Mars and when printing smaller items on the plate and multiple, they do not stick. I am currently running a trial of 5 layers at 100s. 5 layers at 20/30/40/50/60/70 didnt work. Normal exposure time is 8s so going by X12 I should be at 96 max. Pulling my hair out with the lack of adhesion. :(
Since you mention some reservations about broaching this subject, for what it's worth this was extremely helpful for me to hear as a newcomer to 3d. I haven't cleared my first month of SLA printing yet and as you mention, most conventional wisdom seems to favor brutal exposure times which for me has just resulted in prints stuck so hard to the build plate I practically have to chisel them off. Not knowing any better I've simply been grateful to the Micro Center employee who encouraged me to purchase a flex plate. In the last couple weeks I have contemplated reducing exposure time only to conclude this must be poorly reasoned newbie impulses at work-and the result has been prints on unreasonably tall supports that I can just break off without damaging the important bit when I begin excavating the build plate. I assumed everybody must be putting up with this and it's just a cost-of-doing-business thing. So this video helped me understand a bit more of the mechanics and settings, and also realize that if I'm questioning something it might warrant more research to determine if a specific piece of advice is actually right for my particular scenario. Thanks!
Waiting for mye first resin printer. This info is GOLDEN. The ritual to get to know what to do and what not do to while You wait is underrated. Knowledge ahead of impatience to get started
Thank you for this video! After watching it I changed the settings on both my new Mars 2 Pros and my Original Mars Pros. Reduced my Mars Pros to 60 seconds (from 75) and down to 4 layers from 8. On my Mars 2 Pros I went from 35 second bottom layers to 12 seconds and 4 layers from 8. The settings work great! I used to have to almost hammer the prints off the Mars 2 Pros and now it is much better. Thanks again!
Great!
Thanks Arcane. Will try this settings on my Mars Pro 2 as well. I am only just starting but it was a pain in the ass to take the prints off the plate : )
i have too that mars pro 2 its work ? better than the raccomanded ?
thats good to know, I just bought a M2P myself and the rook test print was so stuck i actually had to force it out by hand because i accidentally scratched the plate with the spatula, I'm going to maybe reprint the rook with these settings and then test it on a miniature
@@viniciusfrj I'm just as new as you. Definitely going to support the rook with a 10° tilt before printing because I see people complain about the flat base sticking all the time.
So this is is a great vid, but what I did find on the industrial level printing options, the Elegoo Jupiter Printer and large scale printers come defaulted with a set 30 second bottom exposure time and a 3 second layer time. This just leads to non stop failures with the initial test prints. I ended up bumping them up to 90 for the bottom exposure and then 6 to the layers. Fixed the issue. Especially on bigger machines and larger prints I was super surprised that was what the baseline Jupiter stats was. Love the channel!
I think this is pretty solid advice, and the problem is that chitubox is putting in pretty high bottom exposures as well.
I started out with the basics from chitubox at 40s exposure on 6 layers.
Now the miniatures stuck to the build plate just fine, but I could hardly get them off and had to use extreme force to get them off.
Common sense told me that it shouldn't work like that, and I started lowering the time.
So far I have had 0 print failures concerning build plate adhesion and have dropped to 30s over a few printing sessions.
However looking at this video I am gonna drop my settings even more and see how easily I can remove them afterwards (though they pop off reasonably already now).
Thanks for this video, keep it up!
Since using your settings on my Mono X I have had nothing but perfect prints and my FEP is lasting forever. Thanks!!
EXCELLENT POINT John! In addition (from the source:-) I would like to add. Three (3) long exposure layers are more than enough. If anyone has a non-sticking issue I urge you to increase the "elephant foot" or the "raft". Basically you should increase the area of the first three layers. Let's say that you should build a island on which you're going to build your model.
Now, time wise... Everything that is more than 4-times more than a normal layer is OVERKILL and DANGEROUS!!!!!
Let's examine a bit a mechanism of photo-polymerization. As said number of times polymerization is an exothermic reaction. Meaning that during the transition from liquid to solid state a LOTS of heat is generated from your resin alone! Now to that heat add the heat from UV irradiation and you have troubles on two fronts! One being your LCD ant the other being your FEP film.
FEP film is ALREADY under stress because is under tension. When you heat it you make it softer and more "rubbery"... to the point that you get wrinkles. LCD on the other hand got it's undesirable heat from the bottom from UV irradiation and heat convection from "UV brick/heatsink" and from the top from resin due to polymerization.
Think of LCD life as a rubber band. If you stretch it to let's say 60% of the maximum you could do that almost indefinitely. But stretch that band three times to the max extension ...and the fourth time is a goner! GOT IT?!?!?
So, bottom line... use max 3-bottom layers, use a large raft , use max 3x normal layer time for the first layers.
One trick that we use often is to use a "clean" function for making a first layer! The clean function is a method to expose the entire build area. This way you make a film of cured resin that might grab some residual semi-cured or floating flakes. Of course you engage in a cleaning function without a build plate. The trick is to lower your build plate to the bottom. Perform a cleaning exposure and then you proceed with your usual printing with a cured first layer already on your build plate.
Great video and lots of wisdom to take advantage of. Think you could share a bit more of numbers please?
From the video I gather 6 bottom layers should be more than enough. If my exposure is 2.2 secs then the bottom exposure should be anywhere around 10 to 14 secs.
What about transition layers, light off delay, etc??
Thanks for your time
Wish i had discovered your channel and video before i burnt out my screen.
I've been using 60 seconds for bottom layer on my creality Ld002r. Now I've got burnt spotty screen.
Nevertheless better late than never, it's a continuous learning experience and thank you people like you for sharing wisdom and learnings.
Definitely going to switch my settings immediately. I've been forced to overexpose just a bit at 9.25 seconds (normal exposure) for elegoo grey on a standard mars. This pretty much insures success even on the most sensitive pre-supported patreons. However, my bottom layers remain at 8 and 70 seconds! After watching this I realize I might be overdoing it a bit. My printer is only a few weeks old so I'm very happy to have found this info early on! Many thanks my friend, and I am looking forward to the final days of your kickstarter. I backed that one without hesitation, keep up the great work!
just got my first SLA printer (Photon Mono X), saw this video and been testing today. final setting have been bottom exposure: 30, bottom layer: 5 with a 1.8-2.2 normal exposure time. i was initially doing 2.2 normal, 50-60 bottom exposure and 8 bottom layers. thanks for the great advice!
I am one of those who does a higher base and curing time for base layers and 9 layers and 90-120s well I do extrusion sometimes as well. And the kind of resin varies. However, I tried to use your sitting after I saw this video and you know what, at a certain level for 4-60s the print stick to the vet and left the print plate at 60mm hight. I increased it to 8-90s and happens again at a 120 mm level. So it's really relevant to how big your print hight and the base connection raft as well , this is a heavier print. Thanks for your videos and the time and effort you put in there.
I use elegoo grey resin on a longer orange 30. My standard layer time is 8 seconds. When I was running 6 bottom layers with 60 second exposure time I was having a large problem with the lower parts of the minis warping or the prints failing completely. I upped the exposure time to 80 seconds and haven't had a failed print or warping problem since. I'm experimenting with fewer bottom layers but having each layer cover more of the build plate with an adhesion pad.
This video was recommended to me in a timely manner, had just had a few failures so was contemplating jacking up the bottom layers and exposure time. Thanks for the warning.
i got my 3d printer a little over a year ago. the first few prints were ok, some messes ups, but over all worked out well. Idk what it is but I'm having the hardest time getting anything to print. I'm going to try some of this tips and hope it helps. 🤞
Gonna experiment with the mini 4k right now. I had a suspicion my base exposure times were too high because sometimes prints were sticking *too* well to the build plate. I'll report back with my results....
EDIT! follow up below:
I have tried a few times now, and 5 base layers with a bottom layer exposure time of 10 seconds gives me a good amount of adhesion while also allowing prints come off very nicely. Thanks for the tip Greg!
For further clarification, I lightly sand my build plate. Still using these settings 👍
Good stuff
@@jaredhuss7149 iv never heard of sanding the plate, is this just for better grip?
@@unifiedmongoose7915 Sorry for the suuuuper late reply. This will vary from manufacture to manufacture. I was just following Phrozen's instructions. I know some manufacturers have started "texturing" their build plates straight from the factory.
@@jaredhuss7149 Thanks for your inputs Jared, what number of sandpaper you used for your mini 4k? Thanks very much.
I've only been printing a week on my 1st resin machine, a Mono X. The machine came set at 100% UV power and the software defaults to 8x 40 seconds on bottow layers. Everything printed at these settings was impossible to remove without breaking. After lots of test prints I've found 4x 17s bottom layers and 2.7 seconds is perfect for Monocure rapid clear.
I'm printing small pieces on 30um layers.. the resin I'm using is elegoo 8k standard.. and the printer is a saturn 2. Layer exposure times on that configuration is like.. 1.8 seconds. But the bottom layers, if I multiply that by 5 or 6.. it simply won't do it peels off. So it's on 15 seconds now. Never printed many heavy things with that config yet but the bottom raft layer is pretty soft..
I toyed around with the xp2 test and anything less than 17 seconds (normal exposure 2.8) I would get separation from the build plate. I'm at 4-6 bottom layers, mono x
at 2.8 it makes sense to go t0 18-20 secs these days
Yes I agree I've been listening to many different sources about resin 3D printing and the information they're giving regarding curing settings is all over the place a lot of these content creators are transitioning from filament printing and not quite experts in their own right on resin printing
I found for my printer (QIDI S-Box) Bottom layer count 5/Bottom exposure time 60 seconds in colder weather, summer time I use bottom layer count 4/Bottom exposure 50 seconds in summer months. I have also found that I remove the build plate and I rinse the bottom portion of the print off with IPA PRIOR to any attempt at removing model. Have not had any issues at this point.
Im using a Mars 2 Pro with a mono screen, and normally Elegoo water washable resin. Elegoos reccd settings are 5 layer base exposed at 35 secs, then 2 secs a layer. Seems to work sweet as a nut for me even with "big chunky" prints that have a lot of surface to lift. Great base adhesion, no base peel, but clicks right off with a nudge at the edge at the end of the run. Water washable has different settings to normal resin so the settings for normal would be different. The 2 Pro Mono is a massive step forward IMHO....very impressed.
So what would anyone recommend for the mars 2 pro?
I think your right you helped me figure out my print failure I appreciate the advice thanks man.
I am using siraya tech fast navy grey. My printer is an epax e10 . I checked the seting from the siraya tech site there recommend settings are 30s initial exposure, 5 layers and 2.5s for the rest on a Mars 2 pro. I could not find settings for the e10. My print room is also at the low end of recommended (20c) the site recommends increasing initial layers exposure time to compensate. I am using 4 initial layers at 25s and 2.5s regular exposure. I have only done 3 prints and no fails but don’t want to destroy my lcd.
I gotta thank you,
Im pretty new to resin printing, and I set up my settings useing your support setting and set my printer useing this method and haven't had an issue since . Supports just come off with a touch and model pops off build plate no issues, no more struggle.
I use Monocure3d rapid resin.
What about changing the no of bottom layers based on the layer height. I normally double the layers for .02 vs .05
I'm dealing with a strange issue on my printer that I have not found the best solutions for, but having watched this video I'm thinking you might have hit the nail on the head! I did not have settings dialed up incredibly high but they were higher than necessary for sure.
Truly appreciate your help! I just bought a new printer and need to adjust the settings for successful prints. Thank you.
Wow! This is incredible. It works!!! Thanks so much for this video. Everybody kept telling me to up the exposure to ensure sticking to the build plate. Don't need it and this is waaaay faster.
Thanks. Have a Mars and use water washable resin. Going to print some mini heads and use your settings. May have to stick with 14s exposure, 8s was giving me soft minis that would easily break while trimming off the supports. Shouldn't have that problem with heads, don't have lot's of small bits sticking out. Going to go with 0.025 mm slices to see if the details improve much.
On my mega sonic 8k using siraya blu resin. 4 bottom layers 9 seconds. 5 second normal layer. I also keep the chamber at 85f using a diy heater.
This wasn't the video I was looking for (somehow got here after trying to find if I need to replace my FEP yet or not) but this is absolutely the information I needed to know in the long run. I recently turned my settings up to match someone else because I was having issues with printing, glad to know it could cause harm. And I'm pretty sure the issues I am having with my prints are more due to rising speed anyway. Thanks for the vid.
Just had a guy in a group post a screenshot of his settings, 8 bottom layers, 70s exposure, 13s exposure for normal layers. He said he got the settings off his bottle of resin, they really need to stop printing those on the bottles. It's insane
I would agree! causes more problems than it helps.. :)
@@3dprintingpro212 He was baking the base layers so hard it was pulling his magnetic sheet from his build plate. Lol
But those are the only settings my printer prints at (90s base and 14s normal)...
Should I change the LCD?
The stock settings in the photon Mono X manual states 40sec bottom time exposure and 1.5sec for anycubic resin. Any thoughts on this ? I printed the sample cube with their loooong 40sec exposure time and it printed perfectly - but id rather save the machines LCD if possible
haha I just asked the same questions bro- did you ever reduce it? if so, what were the results?
@@RH3D I printed a few things with reduced time and they didnt print as well. I printed the quality test plate which many videos use as a base on youtube, and the best quality came out with a 20sec exposure time for the first 4 layers, and then 1.2sec exposure for the rest -- i looked through a magnifying glass to compare the test prints from 2.5sec, 2.2sec, 1.8sec, 1.5sec, and 1.2sec --
Then when i printed a parts using the same settings, the print failed completely - so i went back to 40sec exposure for the first layers, and 2sec for the rest abd the very same print worked 100%
I used a default setting which used 6 bottom layers and 40 seconds exposure time each, I changed it to 4 layers with 15 seconds exposure time each. Hope it works out
Seems like bigger bases need less exposure on the first layers because the surface area they cover takes more face to remove when applying vertical force. The smaller the base, the less vertical force it would take to remove, and the more you need it to stick, thus higher exposure times. Also, the number of layers most likely depends on your layer height. The thicker the layers, the less number of them you need. There is a relation to all these settings and really the slicer software should be able to lock them together as they do with scaling ratios as an option (check box).
Burn into fep is EXACTLY what happened to me using black resin. Thank you so much for this information! The high layer count and high time is exactly what I've been guilty of!!! Im gunna use your advice and see what happens. Thanks Greg!!
Gotta say, even 55 seconds seems a bit high. Most of my bottom layers are
This is EXACTLY what has been happening to me. I am this close to just giving up on the hobby. Thank you for making this.
Choir boy
Great video. Thanks for explaining everything well and showing your settings. I had been having trouble getting good prints with my printer with lots of fails and ruined films. Adjusted to settings near yours and was blown away with how much better my prints today was. Thanks for helping me learn and to enjoy my printer again
I recently printed a fairly large space ship model with a photon mono x (over 500ml so i had to refill the vat mid print)
First attempt was failed due to too few supports
2nd try was a success with iirc 8 layers but only 10 seconds exposure compared to my 3 seconds while printing
(solid grey resin because of the first failed Print used up too much of my clear resin for another try)
The bottom layers held like a champ
Feeling extremely called out by this video. 😂
This works fine for me. Just got an Epax E10 and used Siraya Blu for my first resin. Exposure test showed 5.1s was best, and I'm using 18s exposure for bottom layers, and 4 bottom layers. Just printed a huge piece and it came out great, no failures, not build plate separation.
Good to know this. I have not printed a model yet as I am researching fully before I print and to try an avoid failure . I am doing my first print tonight. Any tips on using the Anycubic photon 4k with this bottom exposure? Also watched all your vids on supports.
On my EPAX x10 mono the factory recommended bottom exposure time was 25+ seconds. I believe Greg runs as low as 14, but I was having some issues that low, and I’ve lowered my normal prints to 20 seconds / 4 layers, and it’s been consistently working perfectly for about 30 hours now.
Just got a epax e10 4k mono, gonna try this
@@Xenoti After months of printing EPAX hard black and EPAX hard gray is the answer to most questions. They are absolutely amazing to print with.
I'm at 80s bottom layer time with 10s normal exposure time. I started at 60s bottom layer time and increased to 70, then 80 and now I get very few failures and prints scrape off pretty easily. I have 6 bottom layers and have been thinking about reducing this - now maybe I will go to 4 I've actually been wondering why anyone would need to do more than 1 bottom layer? There's only 1 layer that's sticks to the plate and if it doesn't stick, then the 2nd layer isn't going to stick also!
That's what I was thinking about bottom layers. Layers 2,3,4 etc. are just sticking to the first layer so do they really do anything extra by being so over exposed. I might try some experimenting with a tiny print.
@@stinkyham9050 I just tried 2 starting layers and it printed just fine. I think I'll stay with that for a while and see how it goes.
I think most people do a lot of layers/bottom exposure time because when they are new to printing, they fail the first time, then when they go to the internet to ask for help the first thing they find is an excel sheet that show best settings for each type of resin. For the anycubic [for example], that sheet suggests 8 layers at 120 bottom exposure. They give that a try, and it works. So they don't question it anymore and start printing like that forever.
been running 10 bottom layers at 60 seconds. had some issues with stuff sticking a while ago, but lately found stuff been very tricky to get off the plate. I'm going to try and trim down a little.
Thanks for the suggestions on changing the bottom layer times. I’m fairly new to resin printing and I e noticed my prints are difficult to come off sometimes. I will try lowering the length of exposure time. As for the layers, I have mine (Creality Halot) set to 3 bottom layers.
Anycubic mono with 2 second exposure, doing 6 bottom layers at 20 seconds with no adhesion issues, and clean separation. Now I'm going to try ratcheting it down to 12seconds and see how it goes!
Thank you for this! I tried your suggestion with a little apprehension, but it worked for me! I had always just used the default of 60s per bottom layer but now I can save half the time with my resin. Again thanks!
On my sonic mini, I've been using a 3.5s exposure time and 4 bottom layers for a while now, but with a 25 second bottom layer exposure time (6.25x). No issues, at all. I'm going to try setting it to 18, to get it closer to 5x the normal exposure time, and see how it goes. Thanks for the video!
You have had the most informative channel for Resin printing and just want to say thank you for doing what you do. I new to this and you've made my transition from FDM so much smoother. Plus I like how "Real" you are about each subject and not to "Sciency" LoL Just got the new Photon Mono and loving what this machine can do and how much faster it prints compared to the LDR002.
what is your setting for your Photon mono?
Do you have a video going over your settings you use for resin 3d printing?
Dude I had 2 fails last night, stuck to fep screen. I’m trying this tonight. Just small rings I’m printing as practice for supports and what not. Excited to see if it works
HOW DID IT GO?
Good Day Mr Pro. Trust you are well. i am a new printer but brint in the Dentakl fiels. i have run into some problems and not to sure how to get it sorted out. Please can you maybe assist me with this if you have the time. i print with Harz Clear pro 50 micron for surgical guide, it is a very thick resin. I get these funny little nipple like protrusions when i take the supports off, its like a little tent where the support was like the pulling forces are to much. do you maybe have an idea what it could be. any assistance would be appreciated. Thank You
I am just looking into 3d printing and doing a lot of studying. Amazind how much the info differs on printer settings. Just subbed you.
The resin can heat up past 200C when exposed to UV, if only for a moment during the curing.
It generally doesn't when curing through the LCD, but if you have some on your hand or gloves while swapping screens and the light ticks on you'll know....
Very knowledgeable, man...I just got a photon mono x, beautiful machine but I'm having issues with the print starting off ok, but then about 30 to 40 layers in, it starts to stick to the fep. Using chitubox, factory settings are 6 bottom layers with a 40s burn. Getting frustrated until I seen you and Uncle jes droppin some knowledge, maybe there's hope. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. TIA!
I just got my first resin printer, not new to 3D printing (since 2013). First thing i thought of was not to over cure. 1. It will wear the screen out 2. It will pull hard on the sheet, also causing wear 3. It will pull the model apart 4. Cause warping
My first print was the sample Eiffel Tower the machine came with, than a few fun ones to test it out. Compared to FDM there's much more prep and clean up work but overall machine maintenance and tuning parameters are far simpler IMO
Additional bottom layers don't make sense to me. The first bottom layer sticks to the plate so why do you need additional layers that are sticking to the first layer. How are layers 2, 3, 4 etc. helping adhesion when they aren't actually sticking to the plate. What am I missing here?
Well, that must be why my prints stick so hard (7 layers, 120s). I just used what Siraya said to, but will try lower times.
Thank you for this. I am dialing in my Mars 3 and new to resin printing and the defaults in Chitu were considerably higher. I will try the lower settings.
Oh wow thanks I’m new to 3D printing and I had high exposure like 115 thanks for the advice I could’ve screwed up my printer but luckily I came across your video
So can someone explain to me what I'm seeing at time marker 6:30? If I'm looking at the settings correctly, the light off delay isn't long enough. With the speeds set as they are the minimum light off delay would be 10 seconds or 11 seconds. That light off delay of 7 seconds would have the light coming on during the retract.
It's really great that you made this video, but the unfortunate truth is that most people using 3d printers have no idea how they work, and no interest in tweaking settings. They just go online and copy someone else's settings. Almost none of them will ever try to calibrate themselves, and when they invariably end up welding their prints to the plate, many of them run out a buy a flexible build plate like that whambam refrigerator magnet or some other gimmick thinking that's what you have to do.
I typically follow the recommendations of the bottle, starting at the lowest recommended settings. Example I use eco white resin from Anycubic a lot. Their recommendation for layer exposure is 3-15 seconds. I've found for my Anycubic Photon Mono 2k that 3 sec let prints melt into themselves, 12 secs had supports cracking miniatures when removing them and 9 secs ending up curing it enough to easily remove supports and prevent parts of the mini from sagging. so 9 secs for layer with 6 base layers at 35 seconds on eco resin is my sweet spot for my specific printer. I have some regular grey resin I need to use up and that i run the same base layers and time but layer exposure is turned down to 2 secs.
After this video I may lower the bottom layer count just to try it but 6 is working well so no burning desire to change settings. I typically look at online forums, spreadsheets and compare that to the recommendations on the bottles. But again I simply look as a reference, I'm using the lowest recommendation on the bottle and increasing from there as needed. I test print a miniature base that has a large spike sticking out of it because this helps me check supports and if the layer cure time is long enough, if its too short then the large spike will collapse back down into the base. This is just how I do it, I've only been printing since Christmas so grain of salt but it works for me.
This is super interesting. My Mars 2 Pro comes in defaulted at 5 seconds for the layer and the base layer being 90
I used phrozen water washable and it needed 30 sec on the sonic mini to stick securely, I had it partially lift on a few prints until i bumped it up. Siraya I'll do 15 to 20 depending on the size of the print. My photon I was doing 60-70, I have over 800 hrs on that screen and it's still kicking.
Great video! I almost destroyed my Photnon Mono X over timing the bottom exposure! Thank you very much!
So exposure can heat up the screen, but what about when we print in the summer and the ambient is around 90F, with the curing the resin can easily get over 100F. At what point does that start really damaging your screen? Does this apply to mono screens as well?
great video. I learned the hard way after burning two screens. I didn't know the importance of the light off time in addition to the bottom layer exposure time.
I'm using Photon mono x I need the settings for anycubic resin for dental application. Please guide me I need good details . Is there any special software for Photon Mono X other than chittubox?
Ever since I started printing(Anycubic Proton) in November I have been using water washable resin with 3 bottom layers, 55 bottom exposure, 8s layers. Have not had any problems with prints after getting the hang of supports.
I have an original Photon with elegoo grey as my go to resin, I use 3 bottom layers at 30 seconds, with 12 second layer exposure and my only failures are from supports.
Thanks for your valuable info with this vedio. I have a problem in my resin printer which is print sticks in FEB vat instead of sticking in the bed. however, I did several bed leveing according to the manufacturing instructions but still print fails and get stick in the FEB. please help and advice if you can
Thanks great video just got a new 4k photon mono x going to use 5 bottom layers at 15 secs if all goes well will reduce to 4 layers 11 secs will tell you how it goes
Thanks for the discussion. I'm a noob at this part of the hobby and appreciate the input.
same i havent even printed anything yet. my printer is sitting in its box waiting for xmas day. I can't wait and am trying to learn all I can. there's so much more to this than I imagined.
Thanks for your tips!
I have an AnyCubic Photon Mono (NOT SE/X). Does anyone watching this has the same printer? If so, please share with me your printing settings and tips. Thanks!
Check your resin manufacturer's site for cure times on the Mono. Most should have something.
I'm really glad i found this video before i set up my mars 2 pro! thank you for bringing light to this misconception!
2018 OG Mars I use 7 layer at 60
Mars 2 Pro: 4 players at 30, but I haven't had very long to try cutting back on base layer settings.
It really depends of the resin. I e had resin that’s hard to remove at 55sec and then the next resin falls off at 85 sec. it’s very frustrating
Indeed. Different resins have dramatically different requirements.
Great video! Thank you so much. Just got a Saturn and damaged my fep due to suction…I think. My Mars settings were dialed in, but those don’t work on my Saturn apparently. Any advice for Saturn settings to reduce suction on a small solid model?
Did you find any solution for this?
At about 5:56 you mention printing larger things. I printed a tank hull just yesterday with 5 bottom layers, 45 sec Bottom Exposure Time. It worked just fine. (Mars Pro)
but what is the "normal exposure time"? what number do i set that at? 5 bottom layers to 30 sec you mean?
I use a 0,3mm height raft (when printing with supports) so normally I use 5 or 6 bottom layers with 0,06 and 0,05mm LH - wich gives 0,3mm. Exposure time is 40secs. Nromal exposure is 9sec with 0,06mm LH. Works perfect (few kgs of resin without issues) and saves resin.
Hi sir, my normal layer not attach after bottom layer. It always fail after bottom layer done. What happen?