We are from Siraya Tech, and we always enjoyed your videos. This particular video is very helpful for many new users. . We also like to share that XP2 is great for brittle/hard model resin but can have issues with more flexible resins, including Fast abs-like and tough resins like Blu. This is likely due to the xp2 model is too easy to print, and that flexible resin often has a wide printable range that would make it very hard to judge. So a 1.5s may look just like a 3s one, but 1.5s may have a problem printing a real world print model. Several attempts have been made to address this aspect of the XP2 model, and we have shared this finding with the amazing Photonser who created the XP2 model.
I have nothing but failures with the mono 5s with the anycubic resin. I just started a new print with Sirayatech after installing your settings file for the resin. Well see what happens.
I feel like I just sat through a TedTalk made just for me. Your natural speaking tone, efficient script, and the information presented of course, were a damn masterclass in educational videos. Both as a healthcare instructor and 3D printing hobbyist, thank you very much!
Waiting to get all my safety gear and needed post op tools, in the mean time I am gathering as much information in resin printing and this video was very informative and great to learn from. Thank you very much for your time and information.
I've had an FDM printer for years and finally decided to invest in a Resin Printer, and this video helped me understand more about resin-calibrations than any of my other research (weeks of looking). Thank you so much!
same. I posted in a facebook group about recommended settings people could share and the majority of them were morons basically telling me to figure it out myself/“no shortcuts in this hobby”(🖕🙄 to them). There was maybe one or two people that commented on the post that actually provided guides like this one here. Some people are meant to be teachers by how natural it comes to them to explain things in a way people can understand and their sheer amount of attention to detail as well as patience. Other’s need a whole separate course on people skills and how to teach effectively, because they know nothing of humility with the amount of arrogance I got from comments like that. We join these groups/forums and conversations to learn from one another not just gloat about how amazing a job we did getting something to print correctly. Anyway, after seeing this well put-together video I’m subscribing. Thank you!
So useful and so organized. Many RUclipsrs I've consulted about printing are not as good at instruction as you are. You deliver the content without a lot of filler. In fact, I would call your lesson "well-calibrated". Good show.
Thank you for this video. Great tips. Explaining things others never take the time to explain. For newer users like myself all these numbers a settings are greek to me, all these crazy offsets x,y,z, , bottom / top, speeds, off times, etc is just insane, however after you finally taking the time to explain this I'm actually getting results, I kept over exposering, constantly having to replace damaged fep which is a constant set back, so thanks.
Thank you for this video! I've got close to 1000 hours of FDM print experience, but I just recently picked up a MSLA resin printer and had some questions. This cleared everything up for me.
Thank you for this video. I ran the basic test piece that came with my Photon Mono SE and used the vase layer setting on the box of my resin. I've now seen that a) the setting I settled on is way over exposed, and b) that this over exposure is part of the reason it feels like I need a jackhammer to get my prints off of the bed.
I just printed the XP2 validation benchmark. 100% accuracy. the fine lines did not wash away on my print, manually dunking in IPA, waiving it around with my fingers.
The Cones of Calibration work way better for dialing in the exposure time, they give a real easy to "read" result and tuning becomes really easy! (just a tip for those watching this later on)
This is EXACTLY what I needed. I haven't touched my creality in months because I couldn't get my times proper. (I'm using clear resin) so thank you so much.
I feel u man when i first used clear blue i had the same exposure settings as the grey resin that came with my mars 2p and uhh… yeah not fun lol set me back a bit
Same 3D Printer and same resin as you used in the video, and 1,7 exposure for me was just horrible I found that 2,9 - 3,0 is the right settings for me Thanks for the tips
Waiting for my resin printer to arrive, but this is a very useful and important video, many thanks for making it and I will definitely perform the tests you presented to find the optimal settings to preserve detail for each resin I plan to use
Im using anycubic photon mono with anycubic resin. I ve just found 3s exp time recently. Is it okay? I used resin xp2 validation matrix and printed perfectly.
Absolutely Flawless presentation on a pretty complex subject. You are really good in front of the camera and awesome voice. Stay in television and keep going with it homie.
The most detailed printing advice I've heard so far. Thanks. What can cause the problem that the printed model is rich in detail but does not harden but remains soft, even if I shine it with UV light. Thank you for your answer
There are different types of resin. Some newest types are flexible and even after curing they will remain flexible. If this is happening to your rigid resins I'd recommend hitting them with even more UV light or getting a new batch of resin. After a couple of months of the bottle being opened the Resin gets old and then can produce weird results.
I downloaded the test print and got it perfect the first time. Surprised the hell out of me since I was trying out a 50/50 mixture of two different resins with Cabosil also mixed in for strength. I now have the strongest and sharpest test print ever printed.
Thank you very much. I've been having problems with getting a mixture of resins to work right. Now that I have this and knowing that my mono goes by 0.1 seconds instead of 0.5 seconds helps me a lot. Much appreciated.
im late to the party but this is an amazing video! I kept getting failed prints with my anycubic photon mono x2 using anycubic clear resin and manufacturer settings (2.5 sec exposure time). I suspected that it was to low exposure and wow did this test validate that! I still need to dial it in, but i should be between 3.0 and 3.5!
Thanks for the recommendation to this video. What would you consider to be the optimal times to wash and cure on the post processing? Since you state IPA kills the most tiny details and curing could also cause overexposure? Would you share some recommendations on the optimal time spent washing and curing please? Thanks again for all your wisdom
I'll hit each module for 10 minutes in the IPA Wash station at low. Then I'll hit the models with 5 minute cure at slow speed, rotate the model so the bottom faces up, then do another 5 minute cure. After that it should be all good to go 😊 If it still feels tacky I hit it with 5 more minutes of curing.
So very helpful! Thank you! I have been printing ball jointed dolls and the ends of the arms/legs are printing very thin and the heavier pieces like the head cap and the joints dont even stay on the plate and fail to print completely. I am going to calibrate my exposure times and see if this helps!
Just from Tim's notes: "Each piece after printed was then washed in a Creality Wash and Cure Station for 5 minutes at slow wash speed. Then, after drying off overnight with the important side facing up, each piece was cured for 2 minutes on both sides twice (for a total of 8 minutes altogether)."
Wow, I wish i knew this before starting to print, would be good if this was mentioned/included in printer manuals. Defs gonna do this now. Ive been trying to compensate my slightly enlarged prints manually in the CAD files and I've had lots issues of under/overexposure particularly with clear resin.
Thanks! This was very informative and easy to follow. I'm just getting into SLA printing after being involved with FDM for over a decade and finding out quickly that there is a nice little learning curve, so thank you for helping to flatten that curve for me.
After 5 years of FDM printing I finally bought a resin printer, on my first print I used your calibration matrix, well I got extremely lucky I used 50um layer height and guessed a cure time of 2.5 with Conjure Rigid Clear Blue and I can count 13 Holes and 13 Pins. Being around aircraft fluids and eating food with literal black hands I didn't think I would mind the cleaning. Unfortunately, it's not as satisfying to rush to the printer and pull off the print. The print does look amazing, and it was even more impressive when I pulled the STL files into CAD and measured the 13th at 0.100mm and the 13th hole was actually a SQUARE measuring at 0.070mm x 0.070mm. Wish me luck, I have some soul searching to do and hopefully I can reconcile this..........
I'm a little bit confused about the holes on the left side; Is it supposed to go all the way through, or is it supposed to be plugged up half-way through as if there's a backing behind the holes?
What you are observing is the resulting model created from Bottom Exposure Times VS Normal Exposure Times. The Bottom Exposure times wont keep the model design perfectly dimensionally accurate but will enable model adhering to the build platform. So don't focus your keen eye on the first 4 layers that are Bottom Exposure Time, we're more interested in the result from Normal Exposure Times (which present themselves at higher layers)
What about the instructions on the bottle of resin, for example I'm trying out the Elegoo ABS and they recommend 8sec normal exposure & 60sec bottom exposure. How accurate are these settings when printing.
Resin Manufacturers, much in the same way as Printer Manufacturers, want your first couple of 3D prints with their material to be successful. This means normally providing settings that are over-exposed, so that you won't have models falling off the build platform. I haven't done experiments with that particular resin but to me those numbers seem large for a Mono-screen Resin 3D printer. I would definitely run test on it with my particular printer before committing to large or intricate prints.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks for getting back, I also thought those settings were a little over the top however after a few test prints they seem about right for my 28mm prints.
So question...so you cab adjust exposure time on a file at the machine so if the print came out a lil strange so instead of making a new file I can adjust it right there? Creality halot mage owner here
After the first Matrix was done printed and removed from the Platform, Do I have to Level it again or is it possible to print the next exposure test right after that?
Once you have leveled the platform once your good to go. It is good practice to do so once every 6 months, but so long as those screws (that you tightened to level the build platform) are still tight the build platform will still be level. Hope that helps 😊
Can you solve my problem i am a jewelry and i use anycubic M3 Premium my almost print fail due to bad exposure setting plz can you suggest me the best exposure setting for my 3d printer for jewelry wax
I might be a bit late to the party! but amazing video very clear explanations about the exposure times one of the best videos on youtube. I do have question tho! i have been looking for videos about the Halot one combined with Elegoo water washable resin 405nm. I cannot seem to find anything on youtube or the internet. I was hoping you could help me out with this, like the proper exposure settings. I have been messing around with the exposure times for the WW resin for about 2 weeks now and i cannot for the life me find the correct exposure settings.
Thank you for your very kind words 😊 and Elegoo water washable resin isn't one I have used yet. Is the process outlined in the video not working for your set up?
I'm using Anycubic mono X with their basic resins in a light color. My perfect print settings (on a new printer) were: UV light strength @70%, 1.5 sec exp time, 6 bottom layers, 35 sec exp time. After 50 hours of print I started getting underexposed prints so I upped UV light strength to 75%, everything else stayed the same. Still getting perfect prints. I change FEP sheets every 25 hours of print time or so. I printed about 5 liters of resin (printing mostly full build plates).
Hi! Nice video. But now I have a question. Do I have to put an exposure time to the bottom layers to make this test print or just with the exposure time of the normal layers. For example. Normal layer 1.7 s and Bottom layers 0 s? or Normal layer 1.7 s and Bottom layers 17 s?
This is a great video thanks, the only thing I would add is ,3d printing pro made a video explaining why more than 4 burn in layers doesn't really make a difference
I bought my resin 3D printer with the expectation that it is more accurate than FDM printers for making functional parts. I was very disappointed that things wouldn't fit properly. In fact, they don't fit at all. I will try these calibration methods and see if it'll improve ....
You'll be able to produce functional parts, just be aware each time you use a different resin it will affect Dimensional Accuracy. Run off a couple of Dimensional calibration prints to nail it. Produce a XYZ Cube which is perfectly 20x20x20mm and you'll be good to go. If too small/big scale up/down in your slicing software. STL Link to Cube - www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865 Then when you are producing perfect XYZ Cubes start printing your functional parts, making sure to scale the component to the same amount.
as usual, amazing video by you. a+ presentation. thank you for providing the link in the description too! question, where might we possibly be able to find that gengar in the begining of your video??
What an excellent video. I've been printing for some time but still get confused by these various settings and exposure time. Thanks for such a clear concise explanation. Really well done and I appreciate you taking the time to make and post this video.
This is the first video of yours that I have seen and shall look forward to others that you do. I've owned a resin printer for less than 2 days and NOW I realise why the exposure time is so important and what the difference is between a Normal and Bottom layer. Your suggestion of a c.10x increase in exposure time to establish the bottom layer is invaluable. I'm also grateful to you for explaining why manufacturers deliberately 'over-cook' (so to speak) the exposure time to begin with. Not a conspiracy, but a guarantee that models produced will definitely work and so lend confidence to the newbie owner (i.e. me). So very many thanks for this wonderful insight. Forgive a naive question, but I notice that my Photon Mono 4K has a very similar appearance to your Crealtity (other than the obvious difference in colour to the UV casing). Are they the same or sister companies, I wonder?
Very glad to of helped 😊 more videos on Resin Printing in the pipeline too. In regards to similar appearance this has to do with them utilising very similar technology and implementing it in a similar manner. This implementation is by far the most common way to print resin currently, you'll see many machines with similar appearances made by many manufacturers, and is now referred to as 'traditional resin 3D printing' (this technology is so young using the word traditional does seem a little silly). If your curious there are many different ways/methods to 3D print resin, take this machine here which has a very novel resin printing method - www.fabbaloo.com/news/rocket-1-fast-and-accurate-resin-3d-printer
Hi Henry, welcome to the world of 3D printing 🎉 When you change the layer exposure time it's best practice to set up these changes in your slicing software (chitubox, lychee), while it's possible to alter the settings from the printer, having the correct exposure time baked into the file allows for consistency and repeatability. I would reserve the printer settings for quickly fixing errors.
interestingly i have the same printer as you but needed to actually increase the exposure time to 3.8s to get supports to stick, with the anycubic "rapid" resin.
Proper interesting to know, goes to show the big differences between different brands of resin (when out of the box and poured into the VAT they can look exactly the same)
Still got all them lines on the model there I wouldn't call that perfect! This is exactly what we are trying to find how to solve these build mesh lines that are printed on the model I see them all over the body there the details are great but the step lines are still there!
Does this apply to water-washable resin as well? they are trying to say 60s burn in and 8s normal layer. Idk if the composition is different or something by my prints so far are basically glued to the build plate and damn near impossible to remove without alot of working it. I'm order a flex plate so that won't matter soon but one of my prints were so welded on that it damaged parts of the plate trying to remove it.
Got the same problem but I don’t think it's the resin it's the files settings because the test models I've got work really and get off the plate easily...
Having a flex plate is definitely the best solution to removing models. 60 second burn in seems too long to me, that length of time would get the resin and tank pretty hot, particularly on Monochrome Screen Printers. I have not used water soluble resin however I would run some test using significantly lower Burn in layer times. If careful a razor blade is the perfect tool to lift up an edge to then get the metal spatula underneath to remove the printed model.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks! My flex plate just came in, and yea after talking to a facebook group more about it I ran some of your tests and found around 40 sec bottom and 4.5 normal exposure seem to be pretty close for the water wash. I'm having issues now with prints with supports just getting peeled from the supports but I think that my fep sheet is ruined so I bought some ptfe lube and new sheets, hoping that fixes the problem as I even tested it with a ton of supports and its still getting ripped off. instead of a thump it sounds like a bandaid getting peeled off.
Thanks mate 😊 the settings I found here was for my LD-002H 3D Printer and Grey Creality Resin Combo. I highly recommend running these tests for your own machine as exposure time is dependent on all kinds of factors, even climate. I reckon your Portugal summers would be different than our Australian ones. Take care!
Hi,great video,but I’m pulling my hair out,when I go to settings on halot one on lychee,I have very few parameters to adjust,simply volume ,screen and default transition layers,there are other settings to adjust on the printer screen,but nothing to compare what you are showing,getting to the point of giving up
Just had a look for you and your absolutely right, the options available with that machine are less than they should. If you set up the Halot (LD-006) 3D printer in the Chitubox Slicer all the settings you would expect are there. So I'd recommend using Chitubox with that Printer until Lychee updates itself.
Does it matter it I don't cure the matrixes? I'm checking them fresh out of the printer and I've tried several settings for exposure and the right bottom end of the bars don't materialize
There are some dimensional changes that occur when you cure models so to get the best possible understanding I would recommend curing the pieces. Doing so also means you can handle the printed parts without gloves.
You mentioned it's a good idea to make the intervals .1s for monochrome screens. How do manually change the intervals between exposure times for the 8 on one build plate. Or did you have to print one by one to achieve this?
So I printed each one individually, manually changing the exposure time for each. There are software which will do it all for you automatically which I have linked in the full written up article and here - github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/releases
@@Core-Electronics yeah I gave it a read through and it really helped, I've finally got the skin coloured resin from anycubic printing the rook perfectly, I scattered heaps of them throughout the build plate as well. I tried my first 100mm bust after dialing in the settings for this specific resin but it ripped from the supports and got stuck to the fep :'D I'm going to try using the PTFE stuff next
Sorry to hear about that! Just dial up that exposure a little more and *Fingers crossed* you have nothing but success from here on out! In Lychee I go support crazy with Supports Density set at Ultra but also make the supports size Medium (or once I have trust in my settings Light). Once I have the Generate Automatic Supports completed I go over the model with a fine tooth comb and often place even more supports onto it. With great settings the model will break free from the supports without leaving any marks visible without a microscope.
Spot on, checking and updating your profile as the seasons changes is a good tip, but a random wild weather day can certainly throw your results for a loop.
Thanks for this video, I'll definitely run more tests! Do you think the 10x for bottom layer works for water washable resin too? And how many bottom layers do you suggest?
My experience with water washable resin is limited but I would treat it the same and follow my general rules for normal resin. So I'd have 8-12 bottom layers and a bottom exposure time that was 10x normal layers.
Best presentation band explanation of exposure settings , specially with the subtle details such as mono vs RGB, and the 10x factor for bottom later exposure (is this common?) , great stuff I will be referring back to this video often for remembering technical details ,
Cheers mate, for everything I have resin printed this is a good general rule but make sure to keep the bottom exposure time lower than ~30 seconds. Any higher and the printer will get too hot.
UV Tools is your port of call - github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/releases When set up correctly and started this will run multiple test across your whole print platform.
We are from Siraya Tech, and we always enjoyed your videos. This particular video is very helpful for many new users. . We also like to share that XP2 is great for brittle/hard model resin but can have issues with more flexible resins, including Fast abs-like and tough resins like Blu. This is likely due to the xp2 model is too easy to print, and that flexible resin often has a wide printable range that would make it very hard to judge. So a 1.5s may look just like a 3s one, but 1.5s may have a problem printing a real world print model. Several attempts have been made to address this aspect of the XP2 model, and we have shared this finding with the amazing Photonser who created the XP2 model.
Love your resins
Wish I could love your resins but we can't get none in Brazil. Still respect your brand tho, only read good things about it around the internet
I have nothing but failures with the mono 5s with the anycubic resin. I just started a new print with Sirayatech after installing your settings file for the resin. Well see what happens.
siraya tech leading the industry :)
I feel like I just sat through a TedTalk made just for me. Your natural speaking tone, efficient script, and the information presented of course, were a damn masterclass in educational videos.
Both as a healthcare instructor and 3D printing hobbyist, thank you very much!
Thank you very much for your kind words! New videos all the time so come subscribe if you'd like 😊
Your channel is a gold mine! Speaking as an ex-teacher, you have the gift.
Waiting to get all my safety gear and needed post op tools, in the mean time I am gathering as much information in resin printing and this video was very informative and great to learn from. Thank you very much for your time and information.
I've had an FDM printer for years and finally decided to invest in a Resin Printer, and this video helped me understand more about resin-calibrations than any of my other research (weeks of looking). Thank you so much!
Yay! My pleasure mate, glad to of helped 😊
same. I posted in a facebook group about recommended settings people could share and the majority of them were morons basically telling me to figure it out myself/“no shortcuts in this hobby”(🖕🙄 to them). There was maybe one or two people that commented on the post that actually provided guides like this one here. Some people are meant to be teachers by how natural it comes to them to explain things in a way people can understand and their sheer amount of attention to detail as well as patience. Other’s need a whole separate course on people skills and how to teach effectively, because they know nothing of humility with the amount of arrogance I got from comments like that. We join these groups/forums and conversations to learn from one another not just gloat about how amazing a job we did getting something to print correctly. Anyway, after seeing this well put-together video I’m subscribing. Thank you!
As a newbie, I find your videos both highly informative and easy to follow. Thanks a bunch Tim for making the content. Keep up the great work.
Very glad to hear! And I'll keep my head down 😊
Incredible intonations, thanks for being easy understandable and straight to the point, no rubbish.
Finally an expert who is able to explain complex 3D issues to new users like myself- absolutely brilliant!!! Thank you
So glad you dig it 😊!
i´m a total noob in resin printing here my printer arrives in 3 more days and this is the BEST explanation i´ve seen so far congrats
So useful and so organized. Many RUclipsrs I've consulted about printing are not as good at instruction as you are. You deliver the content without a lot of filler. In fact, I would call your lesson "well-calibrated". Good show.
Cheers champ! 😄
Thank you for this video. Great tips. Explaining things others never take the time to explain. For newer users like myself all these numbers a settings are greek to me, all these crazy offsets x,y,z, , bottom / top, speeds, off times, etc is just insane, however after you finally taking the time to explain this I'm actually getting results, I kept over exposering, constantly having to replace damaged fep which is a constant set back, so thanks.
As someone new to 3D printing, this was very helpful. Thanks!
Thank you for this video! I've got close to 1000 hours of FDM print experience, but I just recently picked up a MSLA resin printer and had some questions. This cleared everything up for me.
Very happy to hear 😊 Hope you get right into resin 3D printing some radical models.
Thank you for this video. I ran the basic test piece that came with my Photon Mono SE and used the vase layer setting on the box of my resin. I've now seen that a) the setting I settled on is way over exposed, and b) that this over exposure is part of the reason it feels like I need a jackhammer to get my prints off of the bed.
My pleasure and cheers for sharing you experience 😊
I just printed the XP2 validation benchmark. 100% accuracy.
the fine lines did not wash away on my print, manually dunking in IPA, waiving it around with my fingers.
all the information here is gold jerry, gold!
I have to say, this is the single most helpful video on resin 3D printing for newbies like me ive seen yet 👌
Happy to hear that!
The Cones of Calibration work way better for dialing in the exposure time, they give a real easy to "read" result and tuning becomes really easy! (just a tip for those watching this later on)
I struggle with the cones could never get them perfect
@killiandw Also depends on the resin of course, state of you FEP and mostly constant temperature.
This is EXACTLY what I needed. I haven't touched my creality in months because I couldn't get my times proper. (I'm using clear resin) so thank you so much.
Suuuper happy to of helped 😊 hope you back on track now printing beautiful models
I feel u man when i first used clear blue i had the same exposure settings as the grey resin that came with my mars 2p and uhh… yeah not fun lol set me back a bit
About to get an Saturn S and knowing these things help so much.
This the best explanation I have been able to find. Thanks so much.
Thats all good mate 😄
Same 3D Printer and same resin as you used in the video, and 1,7 exposure for me was just horrible
I found that 2,9 - 3,0 is the right settings for me
Thanks for the tips
holy moly, what an excellent video! i don't even have a 3d printer and that was like perfect!
Haha yay! Cheers mate 😄
EXCELLENT INFORMATION! THANK YOU SIR!
Waiting for my resin printer to arrive, but this is a very useful and important video, many thanks for making it and I will definitely perform the tests you presented to find the optimal settings to preserve detail for each resin I plan to use
Try the 3DRS Starship Calibration test over this one for real world usage!
As always, consise, clear and very knowledgeable
Excellent share !!
Im using anycubic photon mono with anycubic resin. I ve just found 3s exp time recently. Is it okay? I used resin xp2 validation matrix and printed perfectly.
This video alone was exactly what I needed thank you so much, I have looked through heaps of videos but none break it down like this.
😊😊 Cheers mate!
Absolutely Flawless presentation on a pretty complex subject. You are really good in front of the camera and awesome voice. Stay in television and keep going with it homie.
Naww ❤ Big love! Cheers for that comment mate, made my day! - Tim
The most detailed printing advice I've heard so far. Thanks. What can cause the problem that the printed model is rich in detail but does not harden but remains soft, even if I shine it with UV light. Thank you for your answer
There are different types of resin. Some newest types are flexible and even after curing they will remain flexible. If this is happening to your rigid resins I'd recommend hitting them with even more UV light or getting a new batch of resin. After a couple of months of the bottle being opened the Resin gets old and then can produce weird results.
Thankyou so much, ive been having so many issues with my new Halot Mage, your video was very easy to follow
Hi, according to your research and experience, what 3D resin printer is the closest in details and smoothness to injection molds?
I downloaded the test print and got it perfect the first time. Surprised the hell out of me since I was trying out a 50/50 mixture of two different resins with Cabosil also mixed in for strength. I now have the strongest and sharpest test print ever printed.
Sweet! The idea of putting Cabosil into the resin is such a rad idea. Have you noticed significant strength increase?
Thank you very much. I've been having problems with getting a mixture of resins to work right. Now that I have this and knowing that my mono goes by 0.1 seconds instead of 0.5 seconds helps me a lot. Much appreciated.
Thanks for the detailed, fast and very easy to understand explanations!
My pleasure 😀
im late to the party but this is an amazing video! I kept getting failed prints with my anycubic photon mono x2 using anycubic clear resin and manufacturer settings (2.5 sec exposure time). I suspected that it was to low exposure and wow did this test validate that! I still need to dial it in, but i should be between 3.0 and 3.5!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the explanation. I'm confused whether the exposure times should be set on my 3d printer or in my slicer. Do I do both?
Good info
Thanks for the recommendation to this video. What would you consider to be the optimal times to wash and cure on the post processing? Since you state IPA kills the most tiny details and curing could also cause overexposure?
Would you share some recommendations on the optimal time spent washing and curing please?
Thanks again for all your wisdom
I'll hit each module for 10 minutes in the IPA Wash station at low. Then I'll hit the models with 5 minute cure at slow speed, rotate the model so the bottom faces up, then do another 5 minute cure. After that it should be all good to go 😊 If it still feels tacky I hit it with 5 more minutes of curing.
So very helpful! Thank you! I have been printing ball jointed dolls and the ends of the arms/legs are printing very thin and the heavier pieces like the head cap and the joints dont even stay on the plate and fail to print completely. I am going to calibrate my exposure times and see if this helps!
great, thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for the video. Question from a completely new user- should I cure every test before checking or just washj them?
Just from Tim's notes:
"Each piece after printed was then washed in a Creality Wash and Cure Station for 5 minutes at slow wash speed. Then, after drying off overnight with the important side facing up, each piece was cured for 2 minutes on both sides twice (for a total of 8 minutes altogether)."
Great video! It's just what I needed.
Tolerance compensation is for this exact problem. Chitubox has this feature and I use it all the time.
You made it so clear and easy to understand.
Just got yourself a subscriber.
Looking forward to watching more of your videos
Yayay 🙂 Hope your having a swell day!
How are you putting them into the slicer? flat on the bed or at an angle with supports?
Flat, set the base layers to 4 and it's relatively easy to remove from your build plate despite being large surface area.
I'm here because I want to create my own pokemon toy collection... thank you I learn something today..
Question, do I have to change the settings on the printer and the software or just on the printer?
Thank you Tim, extremely helpful video!
WOW! Impresive information
Wow, I wish i knew this before starting to print, would be good if this was mentioned/included in printer manuals. Defs gonna do this now. Ive been trying to compensate my slightly enlarged prints manually in the CAD files and I've had lots issues of under/overexposure particularly with clear resin.
Love your video style. Could you do a start to finish guide on crystal clear prints?
i printed an absolutley perfect rook with 2.5, using the mars 2 pro and there grey resin. seems i got real lucky rite out the box.
Happy days 😊!
Thanks! This was very informative and easy to follow. I'm just getting into SLA printing after being involved with FDM for over a decade and finding out quickly that there is a nice little learning curve, so thank you for helping to flatten that curve for me.
Rock on mate 😊 thanks for your kind words! Resin printing is an awesome world, hope all the best for your future prints.
Intriguing! What were your power settings? 100%?
I love this channel! Great videos brotha keep making more!
After 5 years of FDM printing I finally bought a resin printer, on my first print I used your calibration matrix, well I got extremely lucky I used 50um layer height and guessed a cure time of 2.5 with Conjure Rigid Clear Blue and I can count 13 Holes and 13 Pins. Being around aircraft fluids and eating food with literal black hands I didn't think I would mind the cleaning. Unfortunately, it's not as satisfying to rush to the printer and pull off the print. The print does look amazing, and it was even more impressive when I pulled the STL files into CAD and measured the 13th at 0.100mm and the 13th hole was actually a SQUARE measuring at 0.070mm x 0.070mm. Wish me luck, I have some soul searching to do and hopefully I can reconcile this..........
Best of luck!
I'm a little bit confused about the holes on the left side; Is it supposed to go all the way through, or is it supposed to be plugged up half-way through as if there's a backing behind the holes?
What you are observing is the resulting model created from Bottom Exposure Times VS Normal Exposure Times. The Bottom Exposure times wont keep the model design perfectly dimensionally accurate but will enable model adhering to the build platform. So don't focus your keen eye on the first 4 layers that are Bottom Exposure Time, we're more interested in the result from Normal Exposure Times (which present themselves at higher layers)
What about the instructions on the bottle of resin, for example I'm trying out the Elegoo ABS and they recommend 8sec normal exposure & 60sec bottom exposure. How accurate are these settings when printing.
Resin Manufacturers, much in the same way as Printer Manufacturers, want your first couple of 3D prints with their material to be successful. This means normally providing settings that are over-exposed, so that you won't have models falling off the build platform.
I haven't done experiments with that particular resin but to me those numbers seem large for a Mono-screen Resin 3D printer. I would definitely run test on it with my particular printer before committing to large or intricate prints.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks for getting back, I also thought those settings were a little over the top however after a few test prints they seem about right for my 28mm prints.
So question...so you cab adjust exposure time on a file at the machine so if the print came out a lil strange so instead of making a new file I can adjust it right there? Creality halot mage owner here
Awesome video. Thank you! Very very informative to a resin printing newbie like myself.
My pleasure 😊 thank you for the comment
After the first Matrix was done printed and removed from the Platform, Do I have to Level it again or is it possible to print the next exposure test right after that?
Once you have leveled the platform once your good to go. It is good practice to do so once every 6 months, but so long as those screws (that you tightened to level the build platform) are still tight the build platform will still be level.
Hope that helps 😊
Can you solve my problem i am a jewelry and i use anycubic M3 Premium my almost print fail due to bad exposure setting plz can you suggest me the best exposure setting for my 3d printer for jewelry wax
extremely useful video, Thanks a lot !
My pleasure mate 😊
I might be a bit late to the party! but amazing video very clear explanations about the exposure times one of the best videos on youtube. I do have question tho! i have been looking for videos about the Halot one combined with Elegoo water washable resin 405nm. I cannot seem to find anything on youtube or the internet. I was hoping you could help me out with this, like the proper exposure settings. I have been messing around with the exposure times for the WW resin for about 2 weeks now and i cannot for the life me find the correct exposure settings.
Thank you for your very kind words 😊 and Elegoo water washable resin isn't one I have used yet. Is the process outlined in the video not working for your set up?
Thank you so much. This vidéo was really helpfull. Clear explanations. Well made video.
Cheers mate 😊
Hi friend, im new and having a lot of problems, im using the same resin, but using halot box slicer. Can you help me with the settings? Please.
I'm using Anycubic mono X with their basic resins in a light color. My perfect print settings (on a new printer) were: UV light strength @70%, 1.5 sec exp time, 6 bottom layers, 35 sec exp time. After 50 hours of print I started getting underexposed prints so I upped UV light strength to 75%, everything else stayed the same.
Still getting perfect prints. I change FEP sheets every 25 hours of print time or so. I printed about 5 liters of resin (printing mostly full build plates).
Cheers for sharing mate 😊 love hearing success stories and your experience with your machine over time.
Hi! Nice video. But now I have a question. Do I have to put an exposure time to the bottom layers to make this test print or just with the exposure time of the normal layers. For example. Normal layer 1.7 s and Bottom layers 0 s? or Normal layer 1.7 s and Bottom layers 17 s?
Thank you mate 😉 Print the exposure tests with 4 bottom layers and like in your example use 17 second bottom layers and 1.7 second for normal layers.
10x is very high for bottom layer, I use 2.0 sec and bottom only 8-10 sec, for a loooong time and never fail.
What resin is that nice purple gengar? I have trouble finding purple resin
This is a great video thanks, the only thing I would add is ,3d printing pro made a video explaining why more than 4 burn in layers doesn't really make a difference
I'll have to check it out, my experience has been more burn in layers has resulted in better model stiction to the buildplate.
Great explanation, thanks for the good content!! :D
I bought my resin 3D printer with the expectation that it is more accurate than FDM printers for making functional parts. I was very disappointed that things wouldn't fit properly. In fact, they don't fit at all. I will try these calibration methods and see if it'll improve ....
You'll be able to produce functional parts, just be aware each time you use a different resin it will affect Dimensional Accuracy. Run off a couple of Dimensional calibration prints to nail it. Produce a XYZ Cube which is perfectly 20x20x20mm and you'll be good to go. If too small/big scale up/down in your slicing software. STL Link to Cube - www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865
Then when you are producing perfect XYZ Cubes start printing your functional parts, making sure to scale the component to the same amount.
I appreciate this dawg!
as usual, amazing video by you. a+ presentation. thank you for providing the link in the description too! question, where might we possibly be able to find that gengar in the begining of your video??
Aww cheers mate 😊 the STL link is near the bottom of the Full Written up article, I'll post it here for you - www.thingiverse.com/thing:5028132
What an excellent video. I've been printing for some time but still get confused by these various settings and exposure time. Thanks for such a clear concise explanation. Really well done and I appreciate you taking the time to make and post this video.
Big thanks mate 🙂! More on the way.
hi, do we need to adjust the exposure time for different layer height? say, 0.03mm, vs 0.05mm.
This is the first video of yours that I have seen and shall look forward to others that you do. I've owned a resin printer for less than 2 days and NOW I realise why the exposure time is so important and what the difference is between a Normal and Bottom layer. Your suggestion of a c.10x increase in exposure time to establish the bottom layer is invaluable. I'm also grateful to you for explaining why manufacturers deliberately 'over-cook' (so to speak) the exposure time to begin with. Not a conspiracy, but a guarantee that models produced will definitely work and so lend confidence to the newbie owner (i.e. me).
So very many thanks for this wonderful insight. Forgive a naive question, but I notice that my Photon Mono 4K has a very similar appearance to your Crealtity (other than the obvious difference in colour to the UV casing). Are they the same or sister companies, I wonder?
Very glad to of helped 😊 more videos on Resin Printing in the pipeline too. In regards to similar appearance this has to do with them utilising very similar technology and implementing it in a similar manner. This implementation is by far the most common way to print resin currently, you'll see many machines with similar appearances made by many manufacturers, and is now referred to as 'traditional resin 3D printing' (this technology is so young using the word traditional does seem a little silly).
If your curious there are many different ways/methods to 3D print resin, take this machine here which has a very novel resin printing method - www.fabbaloo.com/news/rocket-1-fast-and-accurate-resin-3d-printer
I’m new to 3d printing. When you change the layer exposure time, do you do so in chitubox, printer or both?
Hi Henry, welcome to the world of 3D printing 🎉 When you change the layer exposure time it's best practice to set up these changes in your slicing software (chitubox, lychee), while it's possible to alter the settings from the printer, having the correct exposure time baked into the file allows for consistency and repeatability. I would reserve the printer settings for quickly fixing errors.
@@Core-Electronics Thank you, this helps!
the. way. he speaks. gives. me. ANXIETY
interestingly i have the same printer as you but needed to actually increase the exposure time to 3.8s to get supports to stick, with the anycubic "rapid" resin.
Proper interesting to know, goes to show the big differences between different brands of resin (when out of the box and poured into the VAT they can look exactly the same)
are there any other settings that needs to be tested and changed as well? as ecposure time
Still got all them lines on the model there I wouldn't call that perfect! This is exactly what we are trying to find how to solve these build mesh lines that are printed on the model I see them all over the body there the details are great but the step lines are still there!
very informative, good job keep it up
Cheers mate 😊 will do my best
Does this apply to water-washable resin as well? they are trying to say 60s burn in and 8s normal layer. Idk if the composition is different or something by my prints so far are basically glued to the build plate and damn near impossible to remove without alot of working it. I'm order a flex plate so that won't matter soon but one of my prints were so welded on that it damaged parts of the plate trying to remove it.
Got the same problem but I don’t think it's the resin it's the files settings because the test models I've got work really and get off the plate easily...
Having a flex plate is definitely the best solution to removing models. 60 second burn in seems too long to me, that length of time would get the resin and tank pretty hot, particularly on Monochrome Screen Printers. I have not used water soluble resin however I would run some test using significantly lower Burn in layer times.
If careful a razor blade is the perfect tool to lift up an edge to then get the metal spatula underneath to remove the printed model.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks! My flex plate just came in, and yea after talking to a facebook group more about it I ran some of your tests and found around 40 sec bottom and 4.5 normal exposure seem to be pretty close for the water wash. I'm having issues now with prints with supports just getting peeled from the supports but I think that my fep sheet is ruined so I bought some ptfe lube and new sheets, hoping that fixes the problem as I even tested it with a ton of supports and its still getting ripped off. instead of a thump it sounds like a bandaid getting peeled off.
Dear friend. Congratulatios for ths video! Very helpfull! The setting for the LD-002H, is for all Creality Resin? Thank You. Pedro. Portugal.
Thanks mate 😊 the settings I found here was for my LD-002H 3D Printer and Grey Creality Resin Combo.
I highly recommend running these tests for your own machine as exposure time is dependent on all kinds of factors, even climate. I reckon your Portugal summers would be different than our Australian ones. Take care!
@@Core-Electronics thank you.
I will try. I brought the black resin from creality. Let's get some tests.
Hi,great video,but I’m pulling my hair out,when I go to settings on halot one on lychee,I have very few parameters to adjust,simply volume ,screen and default transition layers,there are other settings to adjust on the printer screen,but nothing to compare what you are showing,getting to the point of giving up
Just had a look for you and your absolutely right, the options available with that machine are less than they should. If you set up the Halot (LD-006) 3D printer in the Chitubox Slicer all the settings you would expect are there. So I'd recommend using Chitubox with that Printer until Lychee updates itself.
Does it matter it I don't cure the matrixes? I'm checking them fresh out of the printer and I've tried several settings for exposure and the right bottom end of the bars don't materialize
There are some dimensional changes that occur when you cure models so to get the best possible understanding I would recommend curing the pieces. Doing so also means you can handle the printed parts without gloves.
You mentioned it's a good idea to make the intervals .1s for monochrome screens. How do manually change the intervals between exposure times for the 8 on one build plate. Or did you have to print one by one to achieve this?
So I printed each one individually, manually changing the exposure time for each. There are software which will do it all for you automatically which I have linked in the full written up article and here - github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/releases
@@Core-Electronics yeah I gave it a read through and it really helped, I've finally got the skin coloured resin from anycubic printing the rook perfectly, I scattered heaps of them throughout the build plate as well. I tried my first 100mm bust after dialing in the settings for this specific resin but it ripped from the supports and got stuck to the fep :'D
I'm going to try using the PTFE stuff next
Sorry to hear about that! Just dial up that exposure a little more and *Fingers crossed* you have nothing but success from here on out!
In Lychee I go support crazy with Supports Density set at Ultra but also make the supports size Medium (or once I have trust in my settings Light). Once I have the Generate Automatic Supports completed I go over the model with a fine tooth comb and often place even more supports onto it. With great settings the model will break free from the supports without leaving any marks visible without a microscope.
@@Core-Electronics sounds like a plan! Thanks for the help and video, much appreciated ☺️
@@Core-Electronics sounds like a plan! Thanks for the help and video, much appreciated ☺️
Great video ... thank you.
Glad you liked it!
this video will be very helpful for me. thanks
The ambient room temperature and the temperature of the resin is also important.
Spot on, checking and updating your profile as the seasons changes is a good tip, but a random wild weather day can certainly throw your results for a loop.
Thanks for this video, I'll definitely run more tests! Do you think the 10x for bottom layer works for water washable resin too? And how many bottom layers do you suggest?
My experience with water washable resin is limited but I would treat it the same and follow my general rules for normal resin. So I'd have 8-12 bottom layers and a bottom exposure time that was 10x normal layers.
Best presentation band explanation of exposure settings , specially with the subtle details such as mono vs RGB, and the 10x factor for bottom later exposure (is this common?) , great stuff I will be referring back to this video often for remembering technical details ,
Cheers mate, for everything I have resin printed this is a good general rule but make sure to keep the bottom exposure time lower than ~30 seconds. Any higher and the printer will get too hot.
@@Core-Electronics beauty, beauty
The Cones of Calibration!
Proper interesting! I'll give these Cones of Calibration a good looksie 😊 Thanks.
there was no way to generate multiple exposure in one file directly ? to avoir print and clean between every timer ?
UV Tools is your port of call - github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/releases
When set up correctly and started this will run multiple test across your whole print platform.
@@Core-Electronics thanks , will try ☺️
This is great information, I just received a creality printer so will fine tune it.
However where does one find this Gengar print?
Here's the link to the Gengar model
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5028132
Would any of this change when using an 8K resin?