We are from Siraya Tech, and we always enjoyed your videos. This particular video is very helpful for many new users. . We also like to share that XP2 is great for brittle/hard model resin but can have issues with more flexible resins, including Fast abs-like and tough resins like Blu. This is likely due to the xp2 model is too easy to print, and that flexible resin often has a wide printable range that would make it very hard to judge. So a 1.5s may look just like a 3s one, but 1.5s may have a problem printing a real world print model. Several attempts have been made to address this aspect of the XP2 model, and we have shared this finding with the amazing Photonser who created the XP2 model.
I have nothing but failures with the mono 5s with the anycubic resin. I just started a new print with Sirayatech after installing your settings file for the resin. Well see what happens.
Waiting to get all my safety gear and needed post op tools, in the mean time I am gathering as much information in resin printing and this video was very informative and great to learn from. Thank you very much for your time and information.
Thank you for this video. I ran the basic test piece that came with my Photon Mono SE and used the vase layer setting on the box of my resin. I've now seen that a) the setting I settled on is way over exposed, and b) that this over exposure is part of the reason it feels like I need a jackhammer to get my prints off of the bed.
So question...so you cab adjust exposure time on a file at the machine so if the print came out a lil strange so instead of making a new file I can adjust it right there? Creality halot mage owner here
I have a repeated issue where part way through a print, parts of a model will look melted and flattened. Im not sure whats causing this part way though when other models on the same print are okay.
Hey mate, could you take a photo and then write up a forum post and attach those images here, it'll make it a lot easier for me to diagnose - forum.core-electronics.com.au/latest
I feel like I just sat through a TedTalk made just for me. Your natural speaking tone, efficient script, and the information presented of course, were a damn masterclass in educational videos. Both as a healthcare instructor and 3D printing hobbyist, thank you very much!
The Cones of Calibration work way better for dialing in the exposure time, they give a real easy to "read" result and tuning becomes really easy! (just a tip for those watching this later on)
Im using anycubic photon mono with anycubic resin. I ve just found 3s exp time recently. Is it okay? I used resin xp2 validation matrix and printed perfectly.
I've had an FDM printer for years and finally decided to invest in a Resin Printer, and this video helped me understand more about resin-calibrations than any of my other research (weeks of looking). Thank you so much!
same. I posted in a facebook group about recommended settings people could share and the majority of them were morons basically telling me to figure it out myself/“no shortcuts in this hobby”(🖕🙄 to them). There was maybe one or two people that commented on the post that actually provided guides like this one here. Some people are meant to be teachers by how natural it comes to them to explain things in a way people can understand and their sheer amount of attention to detail as well as patience. Other’s need a whole separate course on people skills and how to teach effectively, because they know nothing of humility with the amount of arrogance I got from comments like that. We join these groups/forums and conversations to learn from one another not just gloat about how amazing a job we did getting something to print correctly. Anyway, after seeing this well put-together video I’m subscribing. Thank you!
So useful and so organized. Many RUclipsrs I've consulted about printing are not as good at instruction as you are. You deliver the content without a lot of filler. In fact, I would call your lesson "well-calibrated". Good show.
UV Tools is your port of call - github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/releases When set up correctly and started this will run multiple test across your whole print platform.
Always more details to 3D Printers 😊 Personally I haven't seen a justification to alter the UV Power from Standard Settings on Creality Resin Printers. On other Resin Printers it may be UV Percentage might be software controlled/easy to alter but with Creality Resin printers you need to pull apart the machine, get to the power-supply and rotate the correct potentiometer with a screwdriver whilst measuring the output with a Multi-meter. I haven't considered it a worthwhile pursuit. Here is a fellow doing just that - ruclips.net/video/zO8NylPhd_E/видео.html
I bought my resin 3D printer with the expectation that it is more accurate than FDM printers for making functional parts. I was very disappointed that things wouldn't fit properly. In fact, they don't fit at all. I will try these calibration methods and see if it'll improve ....
You'll be able to produce functional parts, just be aware each time you use a different resin it will affect Dimensional Accuracy. Run off a couple of Dimensional calibration prints to nail it. Produce a XYZ Cube which is perfectly 20x20x20mm and you'll be good to go. If too small/big scale up/down in your slicing software. STL Link to Cube - www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865 Then when you are producing perfect XYZ Cubes start printing your functional parts, making sure to scale the component to the same amount.
Hey buddy, we have just migrated to a New Updated Website and just ironing out the niggly, teething issues. Models will be available at the bottom of the full article very soon. Until then here is a very similar Rook Test Piece - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3962430
Definitely cure them. The goal is to determine the best possible procedure to create these test pieces so that you can then repeat that procedure for your desired models.
Oh jeez, the caveats at the end were depressing. To hear you describe it, I should run a test print series before EVERY print. My climate is constantly changing, the age of my filament and printer are constantly changing, and of course, my resin batch mumber is changing.
Can someone help me?? Okay so i go the matrix/infinity thing to almost touch how do I fine tune it so there's more detail? Do i need less exposure? More? Also the holes on mine are still somehow pooling up after the 2nd one how do I fix that??? I printed a dummy model to see if the settings were good and they sorta were the model just lacks detail (it's a 4k printer) so idk what to do
If your loosing details then exposure can be dialed back. That would explain why your holes are pooling up too on your exposure test matrix. Once set perfect any resin printer can produce incredible results.
@@Core-Electronics yeah i dialed them back a bit and saw some improvement. How ever I stumbled into another problem i noticed some models came out sticky after curing.... Can I fix this issue or can I just prime/ paint over the issu
Definitely continue curing the models until they are no longer sticky. If your concerned about warping then a coat of paint will definitely seal them up.
Thank you for this video! I've got close to 1000 hours of FDM print experience, but I just recently picked up a MSLA resin printer and had some questions. This cleared everything up for me.
I just printed the XP2 validation benchmark. 100% accuracy. the fine lines did not wash away on my print, manually dunking in IPA, waiving it around with my fingers.
Same 3D Printer and same resin as you used in the video, and 1,7 exposure for me was just horrible I found that 2,9 - 3,0 is the right settings for me Thanks for the tips
Honestly though, I've been 3D printing since 2015. My first resin printer is the Anycubic Photon. (I still use it today) I have since moved on to the Phrozen Transform and just ordered the Anycubic Photon M3 Max. Some really excellent info here. Thank you for spending the time to bring this info to newbs and veterans. Some good info for all here. Concise and accurate.
Nice content thanks! Your gestures are above average but please remember not to do them on every silable. When you remark every word, no word is remarked and its very hard to follow. Nice content thanks!
We have a new Website and just ironing out the niggly, teething issues. Models will be available very soon and here is the Validation Matrix - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4707289
Ohhhh I recieved a printer for Christmas Christmas was trying to print stamps for clay but my design was getting muddled together I didn't know I could deviate from the options on the resin bottle
So very helpful! Thank you! I have been printing ball jointed dolls and the ends of the arms/legs are printing very thin and the heavier pieces like the head cap and the joints dont even stay on the plate and fail to print completely. I am going to calibrate my exposure times and see if this helps!
Formlabs Printers use a Laser to do the initial cure instead of a Monoscreen and a UV Projector. So instead of doing the whole layer in one go it need to go across all the surfaces to be cured with it's thin laser. I presume there are settings to determine how long/amount of time the laser lingers over the parts being cured. Nailing that would be the equivalent of nailing exposure time for DLP printing.
Does this apply to water-washable resin as well? they are trying to say 60s burn in and 8s normal layer. Idk if the composition is different or something by my prints so far are basically glued to the build plate and damn near impossible to remove without alot of working it. I'm order a flex plate so that won't matter soon but one of my prints were so welded on that it damaged parts of the plate trying to remove it.
Got the same problem but I don’t think it's the resin it's the files settings because the test models I've got work really and get off the plate easily...
Having a flex plate is definitely the best solution to removing models. 60 second burn in seems too long to me, that length of time would get the resin and tank pretty hot, particularly on Monochrome Screen Printers. I have not used water soluble resin however I would run some test using significantly lower Burn in layer times. If careful a razor blade is the perfect tool to lift up an edge to then get the metal spatula underneath to remove the printed model.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks! My flex plate just came in, and yea after talking to a facebook group more about it I ran some of your tests and found around 40 sec bottom and 4.5 normal exposure seem to be pretty close for the water wash. I'm having issues now with prints with supports just getting peeled from the supports but I think that my fep sheet is ruined so I bought some ptfe lube and new sheets, hoping that fixes the problem as I even tested it with a ton of supports and its still getting ripped off. instead of a thump it sounds like a bandaid getting peeled off.
Thank you for this video. Great tips. Explaining things others never take the time to explain. For newer users like myself all these numbers a settings are greek to me, all these crazy offsets x,y,z, , bottom / top, speeds, off times, etc is just insane, however after you finally taking the time to explain this I'm actually getting results, I kept over exposering, constantly having to replace damaged fep which is a constant set back, so thanks.
As a general rule for Normal Layer Exposure Time use 0.5-5 seconds for Monochrome Screen 3DPrinters and 2-20 seconds for RGB Screen 3D Printers. For the Resin-Printer Combo in this guide I found 1.7 Seconds was the best Normal Layer Exposure. This was with a Monochrone Screen Printer.
Can you solve my problem i am a jewelry and i use anycubic M3 Premium my almost print fail due to bad exposure setting plz can you suggest me the best exposure setting for my 3d printer for jewelry wax
Waiting for my resin printer to arrive, but this is a very useful and important video, many thanks for making it and I will definitely perform the tests you presented to find the optimal settings to preserve detail for each resin I plan to use
I get same problems with typical over exposure and under exposure. Bits overlay too much and also thinnest details are missing or partial. Struggle with setting PWM light and right exposre time
Just bought the Anycubic mono 4k and a bunch of stuff for it am getting the cure station soon and am gonna go too town on mosaic patterns what am doing is making stencils ...yea I could buy it I know but I want the experience to print it which then I can pay for the print with the experience buy Making art ...to then sell...am trying to figure out the best way to make money in rotation threw economics ..so am thinking shortcuts for back splash 🤔 😏
HELLO. I DO NOT AGREE. I HAVE PRINTED AS YOU SAID ADN THE VALIDATION MATRIX WORKED FINE BUT THE FINAL TEETH DID NOT COME OUT OK HAVEING WORPED SHAPES. I AM USING SG-1 SHINNING SURGICAL GUIDE AND ANYCUBIC DLP D2 PRINTER. WHAT IS THE PROBLEM?
hi, do you think that this model positioning will work and print fine? Or how would you place this object to avoid failurs? drive.google.com/file/d/104Z6Bw0C3-GILCXklRpnXFM8-s1mhFaj/view?usp=sharing Thanks.
@@Core-Electronics hi, we just printed the model. But look at this. Some layers got loose and the model on the front warped on the corners. Meaning the front bottom line isnt even/streight! Here are a couple of images of it: drive.google.com/file/d/17KvPuaxYpGM0iIM4gHgMUr9_tC9BWvX1/view?usp=sharing Do you have any idea or advise why this happend or could be avoided? Thanks!
I always use a Shape Wall Raft for my prints. I find they Adhere better to the build platform. Use 10/12 Bottom Exposure Layers and increase the curing time for the Bottom Exposure Layers by 5 seconds. That should stop your prints from wanting to fall off the build platform (and making the front all wonky). Hope that helps 😊 and big thanks for sharing those photos, I love see what people are 3D printing.
I'm trying this out with the new Anycubic Photon Ultra with the DLP Craftsman resin that's designed for it. However, I find that the Validation Matrices that I print start to curl a bit within a day of curing them. Anyone else have this problem? Know a fix?
I have curly Matrices when I expose one side more than the other. That creates an un-equalness in material properties where one side is under more tension than the other side. That side under higher tension then pulls in the corners creating a non-flat Validation Matrix.
2 cycles of 4 minutes length inside the Creality Wash and Cure station is my normal go to (unless the model is really particularly thin). I make sure to move the object around between cycles so that all sides get UV cured.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks for that, but I meant something that is particularly thin like the Validation Matrix. A lot of videos on it, but I haven't seen anyone mention how long to cure these things for, being so thin.
im late to the party but this is an amazing video! I kept getting failed prints with my anycubic photon mono x2 using anycubic clear resin and manufacturer settings (2.5 sec exposure time). I suspected that it was to low exposure and wow did this test validate that! I still need to dial it in, but i should be between 3.0 and 3.5!
hello i have a question. I am using Uniz slash 2 brand printer. In the models I print, it prints the first 3 layers with a high exposure time (15) and then prints it at the exposure time you specify. I don't know why, I think it's because it sticks well to the plate. Anyway, if I come to my question, I have 1 rod and 1 hole, I press appropriate sizes for this rod to pass through this hole, but it is smaller than it should be crazy. This happens on all my models. If there is a socket or range in the first 3 layers, this is problematic. How can I solve this problem? sometimes there are very simple models and I don't need to put support. So if I reduce the exposure time of the first 3 layers from 15 seconds to 3 seconds, will it not stick to the plate, what should I do?
I'm pretty sure I understand. Dimensional Accuracy can be problematic if your bottom exposure layers are part of the final model. The longer curing time of the bottom layers end up making the final piece dimensionally larger than in section where the normal exposure time is used. You could support the whole model so that any part of the final model is above the bottom exposure layers. You could use 3rd party software to eliminate 'Elephants Foot' (what this problem is commonly called) from your resin prints. Another option (which I'd recommend to you) since your models do not require supports is to print the whole design with that 15 second exposure time. It will take longer to 3D print but will be dimensionally consistent across the whole design. Then you can measure it, if slightly too big or small, scale the CAD model inside your slicing software appropriate and print yourself a winner. Hopefully I understood correctly and this will help 😊
Thanks for the recommendation to this video. What would you consider to be the optimal times to wash and cure on the post processing? Since you state IPA kills the most tiny details and curing could also cause overexposure? Would you share some recommendations on the optimal time spent washing and curing please? Thanks again for all your wisdom
I'll hit each module for 10 minutes in the IPA Wash station at low. Then I'll hit the models with 5 minute cure at slow speed, rotate the model so the bottom faces up, then do another 5 minute cure. After that it should be all good to go 😊 If it still feels tacky I hit it with 5 more minutes of curing.
The word is "adhesion". An adhesive adheres to a surface by means of adhesion. Sorry, I worked for a glue manufacturer and Don King words really bother me.
The most detailed printing advice I've heard so far. Thanks. What can cause the problem that the printed model is rich in detail but does not harden but remains soft, even if I shine it with UV light. Thank you for your answer
There are different types of resin. Some newest types are flexible and even after curing they will remain flexible. If this is happening to your rigid resins I'd recommend hitting them with even more UV light or getting a new batch of resin. After a couple of months of the bottle being opened the Resin gets old and then can produce weird results.
Still got all them lines on the model there I wouldn't call that perfect! This is exactly what we are trying to find how to solve these build mesh lines that are printed on the model I see them all over the body there the details are great but the step lines are still there!
Spot on, checking and updating your profile as the seasons changes is a good tip, but a random wild weather day can certainly throw your results for a loop.
I might be a bit late to the party! but amazing video very clear explanations about the exposure times one of the best videos on youtube. I do have question tho! i have been looking for videos about the Halot one combined with Elegoo water washable resin 405nm. I cannot seem to find anything on youtube or the internet. I was hoping you could help me out with this, like the proper exposure settings. I have been messing around with the exposure times for the WW resin for about 2 weeks now and i cannot for the life me find the correct exposure settings.
Thank you for your very kind words 😊 and Elegoo water washable resin isn't one I have used yet. Is the process outlined in the video not working for your set up?
What about the instructions on the bottle of resin, for example I'm trying out the Elegoo ABS and they recommend 8sec normal exposure & 60sec bottom exposure. How accurate are these settings when printing.
Resin Manufacturers, much in the same way as Printer Manufacturers, want your first couple of 3D prints with their material to be successful. This means normally providing settings that are over-exposed, so that you won't have models falling off the build platform. I haven't done experiments with that particular resin but to me those numbers seem large for a Mono-screen Resin 3D printer. I would definitely run test on it with my particular printer before committing to large or intricate prints.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks for getting back, I also thought those settings were a little over the top however after a few test prints they seem about right for my 28mm prints.
as usual, amazing video by you. a+ presentation. thank you for providing the link in the description too! question, where might we possibly be able to find that gengar in the begining of your video??
Does it matter it I don't cure the matrixes? I'm checking them fresh out of the printer and I've tried several settings for exposure and the right bottom end of the bars don't materialize
There are some dimensional changes that occur when you cure models so to get the best possible understanding I would recommend curing the pieces. Doing so also means you can handle the printed parts without gloves.
So... these test prints to calibrate a printer is good and all, but I did run into a very... odd issue. I used this to home in the settings on some elegoo standard translucent resin and yeah, this and a few other calibration prints came out better than I hoped, both default settings to strart with and homing it down. But in really printing something... no matter what it was, or the orientation of the object... the side facing down printed flawlessly. But the side facing up, facing the build plate and around supports looked to 'gum up' or colect a mass of resin and cure it as well. These all being prints I've had no isues with in other resins. So the side facing the build plate would come out gunked up, thick globs everywhere, bad warping and so on. I'd share photos but youtube has been auto deleting all comments with links in them, even if I try and get fancy with it. Could this be just a bad batch of resin? Or some other factor I'm unaware of when it comes to clear/transparent resin? Could it be due to printing in winter though the temp inside and around the printer are with in the working range? It just seems no matter how I adjusted the settings even using settings ment for like the standard gray the same thing. If facing to the side or away from build plate, prints sharp and clear... face build plate and it's a mess. I am going to be switching back to the gray just to be sure something isn't badly fudging up. But this is starting to bother me as I was really looking forward to doing a few things with the translucent.
Thanks for sharing mate, this gunk that you have on the bottom layers when you use transparent resin could be any number of reasons. You've highlighted the main culprits that I reckon it is, old resin and temperature. Resin does last a long while sealed up and out of the sun. Make sure that you have filtered it so that there isn't any cured/semi cured resin hidden in there. Its particularly hard to see this with Transparent Resin. With the right setting temperature can be overcome, I've seen a fellow produce resin prints in the snow (ruclips.net/video/Ac2-tnCSwQc/видео.html). With the images I can help better, come post them on our Forum 😊
I'm a little bit confused about the holes on the left side; Is it supposed to go all the way through, or is it supposed to be plugged up half-way through as if there's a backing behind the holes?
What you are observing is the resulting model created from Bottom Exposure Times VS Normal Exposure Times. The Bottom Exposure times wont keep the model design perfectly dimensionally accurate but will enable model adhering to the build platform. So don't focus your keen eye on the first 4 layers that are Bottom Exposure Time, we're more interested in the result from Normal Exposure Times (which present themselves at higher layers)
Once you're printing those Chess pieces you're good as golden. Models falling off the platform every so often does come with chasing perfection. But I hope you have overcome it and printed something sweet 😊
Currently our 3D printing service is offline, the 3D printing community is as immense as it is supportive 😊 so with a little asking around I'm sure someone will be happy to come to your aid
Absolutely Flawless presentation on a pretty complex subject. You are really good in front of the camera and awesome voice. Stay in television and keep going with it homie.
Hi,great video,but I’m pulling my hair out,when I go to settings on halot one on lychee,I have very few parameters to adjust,simply volume ,screen and default transition layers,there are other settings to adjust on the printer screen,but nothing to compare what you are showing,getting to the point of giving up
Just had a look for you and your absolutely right, the options available with that machine are less than they should. If you set up the Halot (LD-006) 3D printer in the Chitubox Slicer all the settings you would expect are there. So I'd recommend using Chitubox with that Printer until Lychee updates itself.
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We are from Siraya Tech, and we always enjoyed your videos. This particular video is very helpful for many new users. . We also like to share that XP2 is great for brittle/hard model resin but can have issues with more flexible resins, including Fast abs-like and tough resins like Blu. This is likely due to the xp2 model is too easy to print, and that flexible resin often has a wide printable range that would make it very hard to judge. So a 1.5s may look just like a 3s one, but 1.5s may have a problem printing a real world print model. Several attempts have been made to address this aspect of the XP2 model, and we have shared this finding with the amazing Photonser who created the XP2 model.
Love your resins
Wish I could love your resins but we can't get none in Brazil. Still respect your brand tho, only read good things about it around the internet
I have nothing but failures with the mono 5s with the anycubic resin. I just started a new print with Sirayatech after installing your settings file for the resin. Well see what happens.
siraya tech leading the industry :)
Waiting to get all my safety gear and needed post op tools, in the mean time I am gathering as much information in resin printing and this video was very informative and great to learn from. Thank you very much for your time and information.
Thank you for this video. I ran the basic test piece that came with my Photon Mono SE and used the vase layer setting on the box of my resin. I've now seen that a) the setting I settled on is way over exposed, and b) that this over exposure is part of the reason it feels like I need a jackhammer to get my prints off of the bed.
My pleasure and cheers for sharing you experience 😊
About to get an Saturn S and knowing these things help so much.
this video will be very helpful for me. thanks
So question...so you cab adjust exposure time on a file at the machine so if the print came out a lil strange so instead of making a new file I can adjust it right there? Creality halot mage owner here
I have a repeated issue where part way through a print, parts of a model will look melted and flattened. Im not sure whats causing this part way though when other models on the same print are okay.
Hey mate, could you take a photo and then write up a forum post and attach those images here, it'll make it a lot easier for me to diagnose - forum.core-electronics.com.au/latest
How dare you ignore light intensity, penetration depth and layer thickness when you discuss the precision of SLA!?
Layer thickness coming soon....!
I feel like I just sat through a TedTalk made just for me. Your natural speaking tone, efficient script, and the information presented of course, were a damn masterclass in educational videos.
Both as a healthcare instructor and 3D printing hobbyist, thank you very much!
Thank you very much for your kind words! New videos all the time so come subscribe if you'd like 😊
As a newbie, I find your videos both highly informative and easy to follow. Thanks a bunch Tim for making the content. Keep up the great work.
Very glad to hear! And I'll keep my head down 😊
The Cones of Calibration work way better for dialing in the exposure time, they give a real easy to "read" result and tuning becomes really easy! (just a tip for those watching this later on)
I struggle with the cones could never get them perfect
@killiandw Also depends on the resin of course, state of you FEP and mostly constant temperature.
Im using anycubic photon mono with anycubic resin. I ve just found 3s exp time recently. Is it okay? I used resin xp2 validation matrix and printed perfectly.
Try the 3DRS Starship Calibration test over this one for real world usage!
I've had an FDM printer for years and finally decided to invest in a Resin Printer, and this video helped me understand more about resin-calibrations than any of my other research (weeks of looking). Thank you so much!
Yay! My pleasure mate, glad to of helped 😊
same. I posted in a facebook group about recommended settings people could share and the majority of them were morons basically telling me to figure it out myself/“no shortcuts in this hobby”(🖕🙄 to them). There was maybe one or two people that commented on the post that actually provided guides like this one here. Some people are meant to be teachers by how natural it comes to them to explain things in a way people can understand and their sheer amount of attention to detail as well as patience. Other’s need a whole separate course on people skills and how to teach effectively, because they know nothing of humility with the amount of arrogance I got from comments like that. We join these groups/forums and conversations to learn from one another not just gloat about how amazing a job we did getting something to print correctly. Anyway, after seeing this well put-together video I’m subscribing. Thank you!
I'm here because I want to create my own pokemon toy collection... thank you I learn something today..
So useful and so organized. Many RUclipsrs I've consulted about printing are not as good at instruction as you are. You deliver the content without a lot of filler. In fact, I would call your lesson "well-calibrated". Good show.
Cheers champ! 😄
there was no way to generate multiple exposure in one file directly ? to avoir print and clean between every timer ?
UV Tools is your port of call - github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/releases
When set up correctly and started this will run multiple test across your whole print platform.
@@Core-Electronics thanks , will try ☺️
You’re talking about exposure time but you don’t talk about UV power %…
I didn’t saw you talking about that ;)
Always more details to 3D Printers 😊 Personally I haven't seen a justification to alter the UV Power from Standard Settings on Creality Resin Printers.
On other Resin Printers it may be UV Percentage might be software controlled/easy to alter but with Creality Resin printers you need to pull apart the machine, get to the power-supply and rotate the correct potentiometer with a screwdriver whilst measuring the output with a Multi-meter. I haven't considered it a worthwhile pursuit. Here is a fellow doing just that - ruclips.net/video/zO8NylPhd_E/видео.html
Oh yeah we are all just trying to find that sweet spot
I bought my resin 3D printer with the expectation that it is more accurate than FDM printers for making functional parts. I was very disappointed that things wouldn't fit properly. In fact, they don't fit at all. I will try these calibration methods and see if it'll improve ....
You'll be able to produce functional parts, just be aware each time you use a different resin it will affect Dimensional Accuracy. Run off a couple of Dimensional calibration prints to nail it. Produce a XYZ Cube which is perfectly 20x20x20mm and you'll be good to go. If too small/big scale up/down in your slicing software. STL Link to Cube - www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865
Then when you are producing perfect XYZ Cubes start printing your functional parts, making sure to scale the component to the same amount.
holy moly, what an excellent video! i don't even have a 3d printer and that was like perfect!
Haha yay! Cheers mate 😄
i printed an absolutley perfect rook with 2.5, using the mars 2 pro and there grey resin. seems i got real lucky rite out the box.
Happy days 😊!
nice but can´t find the Rook Calibration Chess Piece anywhere anymore?
Hey buddy, we have just migrated to a New Updated Website and just ironing out the niggly, teething issues. Models will be available at the bottom of the full article very soon. Until then here is a very similar Rook Test Piece - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3962430
Exactly where is the validation matrix located in the description?
AH! Never mind the download is not in the description, there is a link to tutorial website that has the download link located there.
I appreciate this dawg!
How are you putting them into the slicer? flat on the bed or at an angle with supports?
Flat, set the base layers to 4 and it's relatively easy to remove from your build plate despite being large surface area.
Excellent share !!
As someone new to 3D printing, this was very helpful. Thanks!
I thought the validation test wasn't supposed to be cured ,just washed
Definitely cure them. The goal is to determine the best possible procedure to create these test pieces so that you can then repeat that procedure for your desired models.
Your channel is a gold mine! Speaking as an ex-teacher, you have the gift.
Incredible intonations, thanks for being easy understandable and straight to the point, no rubbish.
Oh jeez, the caveats at the end were depressing. To hear you describe it, I should run a test print series before EVERY print. My climate is constantly changing, the age of my filament and printer are constantly changing, and of course, my resin batch mumber is changing.
EXCELLENT INFORMATION! THANK YOU SIR!
great, thanks for sharing 👍
Can someone help me?? Okay so i go the matrix/infinity thing to almost touch how do I fine tune it so there's more detail? Do i need less exposure? More? Also the holes on mine are still somehow pooling up after the 2nd one how do I fix that??? I printed a dummy model to see if the settings were good and they sorta were the model just lacks detail (it's a 4k printer)
so idk what to do
If your loosing details then exposure can be dialed back. That would explain why your holes are pooling up too on your exposure test matrix. Once set perfect any resin printer can produce incredible results.
@@Core-Electronics yeah i dialed them back a bit and saw some improvement. How ever I stumbled into another problem i noticed some models came out sticky after curing.... Can I fix this issue or can I just prime/ paint over the issu
Definitely continue curing the models until they are no longer sticky. If your concerned about warping then a coat of paint will definitely seal them up.
Thank you for this video! I've got close to 1000 hours of FDM print experience, but I just recently picked up a MSLA resin printer and had some questions. This cleared everything up for me.
Very happy to hear 😊 Hope you get right into resin 3D printing some radical models.
I just printed the XP2 validation benchmark. 100% accuracy.
the fine lines did not wash away on my print, manually dunking in IPA, waiving it around with my fingers.
Same 3D Printer and same resin as you used in the video, and 1,7 exposure for me was just horrible
I found that 2,9 - 3,0 is the right settings for me
Thanks for the tips
'Sticksion'?
the website is down, hope you can fix and reupload the file, it's super useful!
Back and fully operational 😊 thanks for the kind words
Got it!
Perfect video for beginners to learn, still with 2.2sec its underexposed that the outer fine lines on The test model are loose -.-"
Tolerance compensation is for this exact problem. Chitubox has this feature and I use it all the time.
C-3PO is about to give you a copyright strike! LOL! =)
Honestly though, I've been 3D printing since 2015. My first resin printer is the Anycubic Photon. (I still use it today) I have since moved on to the Phrozen Transform and just ordered the Anycubic Photon M3 Max. Some really excellent info here. Thank you for spending the time to bring this info to newbs and veterans. Some good info for all here. Concise and accurate.
Big love 😊 cheers mate.
Nice content thanks! Your gestures are above average but please remember not to do them on every silable. When you remark every word, no word is remarked and its very hard to follow. Nice content thanks!
I cannot find where to download the test prints
We have a new Website and just ironing out the niggly, teething issues. Models will be available very soon and here is the Validation Matrix - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4707289
Ohhhh
I recieved a printer for Christmas Christmas was trying to print stamps for clay but my design was getting muddled together
I didn't know I could deviate from the options on the resin bottle
Good info
So very helpful! Thank you! I have been printing ball jointed dolls and the ends of the arms/legs are printing very thin and the heavier pieces like the head cap and the joints dont even stay on the plate and fail to print completely. I am going to calibrate my exposure times and see if this helps!
Does this work on Formlabs printers
Formlabs Printers use a Laser to do the initial cure instead of a Monoscreen and a UV Projector. So instead of doing the whole layer in one go it need to go across all the surfaces to be cured with it's thin laser. I presume there are settings to determine how long/amount of time the laser lingers over the parts being cured. Nailing that would be the equivalent of nailing exposure time for DLP printing.
Does this apply to water-washable resin as well? they are trying to say 60s burn in and 8s normal layer. Idk if the composition is different or something by my prints so far are basically glued to the build plate and damn near impossible to remove without alot of working it. I'm order a flex plate so that won't matter soon but one of my prints were so welded on that it damaged parts of the plate trying to remove it.
Got the same problem but I don’t think it's the resin it's the files settings because the test models I've got work really and get off the plate easily...
Having a flex plate is definitely the best solution to removing models. 60 second burn in seems too long to me, that length of time would get the resin and tank pretty hot, particularly on Monochrome Screen Printers. I have not used water soluble resin however I would run some test using significantly lower Burn in layer times.
If careful a razor blade is the perfect tool to lift up an edge to then get the metal spatula underneath to remove the printed model.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks! My flex plate just came in, and yea after talking to a facebook group more about it I ran some of your tests and found around 40 sec bottom and 4.5 normal exposure seem to be pretty close for the water wash. I'm having issues now with prints with supports just getting peeled from the supports but I think that my fep sheet is ruined so I bought some ptfe lube and new sheets, hoping that fixes the problem as I even tested it with a ton of supports and its still getting ripped off. instead of a thump it sounds like a bandaid getting peeled off.
Anyone with Anycubic Photon and basic resin from Anycubic and could help me with some settings?
Thank you for this video. Great tips. Explaining things others never take the time to explain. For newer users like myself all these numbers a settings are greek to me, all these crazy offsets x,y,z, , bottom / top, speeds, off times, etc is just insane, however after you finally taking the time to explain this I'm actually getting results, I kept over exposering, constantly having to replace damaged fep which is a constant set back, so thanks.
which the best use number 1.7 or 3 s?
As a general rule for Normal Layer Exposure Time use 0.5-5 seconds for Monochrome Screen 3DPrinters and 2-20 seconds for RGB Screen 3D Printers.
For the Resin-Printer Combo in this guide I found 1.7 Seconds was the best Normal Layer Exposure. This was with a Monochrone Screen Printer.
Can you solve my problem i am a jewelry and i use anycubic M3 Premium my almost print fail due to bad exposure setting plz can you suggest me the best exposure setting for my 3d printer for jewelry wax
Waiting for my resin printer to arrive, but this is a very useful and important video, many thanks for making it and I will definitely perform the tests you presented to find the optimal settings to preserve detail for each resin I plan to use
I get same problems with typical over exposure and under exposure. Bits overlay too much and also thinnest details are missing or partial. Struggle with setting PWM light and right exposre time
Just bought the Anycubic mono 4k and a bunch of stuff for it am getting the cure station soon and am gonna go too town on mosaic patterns what am doing is making stencils ...yea I could buy it I know but I want the experience to print it which then I can pay for the print with the experience buy Making art ...to then sell...am trying to figure out the best way to make money in rotation threw economics ..so am thinking shortcuts for back splash 🤔 😏
HELLO. I DO NOT AGREE. I HAVE PRINTED AS YOU SAID ADN THE VALIDATION MATRIX WORKED FINE BUT THE FINAL TEETH DID NOT COME OUT OK HAVEING WORPED SHAPES. I AM USING SG-1 SHINNING SURGICAL GUIDE AND ANYCUBIC DLP D2 PRINTER. WHAT IS THE PROBLEM?
Hi friend, im new and having a lot of problems, im using the same resin, but using halot box slicer. Can you help me with the settings? Please.
This the best explanation I have been able to find. Thanks so much.
Thats all good mate 😄
Great video ... thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Watching this because I’m gonna print Peter’s medallion.
hi, do you think that this model positioning will work and print fine?
Or how would you place this object to avoid failurs?
drive.google.com/file/d/104Z6Bw0C3-GILCXklRpnXFM8-s1mhFaj/view?usp=sharing
Thanks.
That positioning looks perfect to me if this is your first couple of prints I would reccommend doing them one by one.
@@Core-Electronics yea its my first couple of prints. :) Why one by one?
@@Core-Electronics hi,
we just printed the model. But look at this.
Some layers got loose and the model on the front warped on the corners. Meaning the front bottom line isnt even/streight!
Here are a couple of images of it:
drive.google.com/file/d/17KvPuaxYpGM0iIM4gHgMUr9_tC9BWvX1/view?usp=sharing
Do you have any idea or advise why this happend or could be avoided?
Thanks!
I always use a Shape Wall Raft for my prints. I find they Adhere better to the build platform. Use 10/12 Bottom Exposure Layers and increase the curing time for the Bottom Exposure Layers by 5 seconds.
That should stop your prints from wanting to fall off the build platform (and making the front all wonky).
Hope that helps 😊 and big thanks for sharing those photos, I love see what people are 3D printing.
@@Core-Electronics thanks for the input
Intriguing! What were your power settings? 100%?
Thanks for your sharing
😊
I'm trying this out with the new Anycubic Photon Ultra with the DLP Craftsman resin that's designed for it. However, I find that the Validation Matrices that I print start to curl a bit within a day of curing them.
Anyone else have this problem? Know a fix?
I have curly Matrices when I expose one side more than the other. That creates an un-equalness in material properties where one side is under more tension than the other side. That side under higher tension then pulls in the corners creating a non-flat Validation Matrix.
@@Core-Electronics Ah yes, thanks, that makes sense.
How long do you usually cure these for? I'm guessing I'm likely over doing it anyway...
2 cycles of 4 minutes length inside the Creality Wash and Cure station is my normal go to (unless the model is really particularly thin). I make sure to move the object around between cycles so that all sides get UV cured.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks for that, but I meant something that is particularly thin like the Validation Matrix. A lot of videos on it, but I haven't seen anyone mention how long to cure these things for, being so thin.
im late to the party but this is an amazing video! I kept getting failed prints with my anycubic photon mono x2 using anycubic clear resin and manufacturer settings (2.5 sec exposure time). I suspected that it was to low exposure and wow did this test validate that! I still need to dial it in, but i should be between 3.0 and 3.5!
Glad it helped!
Most offensive delivery style ever, the voice, feels, like, I, am, being attacked
hello i have a question. I am using Uniz slash 2 brand printer. In the models I print, it prints the first 3 layers with a high exposure time (15) and then prints it at the exposure time you specify. I don't know why, I think it's because it sticks well to the plate. Anyway, if I come to my question, I have 1 rod and 1 hole, I press appropriate sizes for this rod to pass through this hole, but it is smaller than it should be crazy. This happens on all my models. If there is a socket or range in the first 3 layers, this is problematic. How can I solve this problem? sometimes there are very simple models and I don't need to put support. So if I reduce the exposure time of the first 3 layers from 15 seconds to 3 seconds, will it not stick to the plate, what should I do?
I'm pretty sure I understand. Dimensional Accuracy can be problematic if your bottom exposure layers are part of the final model. The longer curing time of the bottom layers end up making the final piece dimensionally larger than in section where the normal exposure time is used. You could support the whole model so that any part of the final model is above the bottom exposure layers. You could use 3rd party software to eliminate 'Elephants Foot' (what this problem is commonly called) from your resin prints. Another option (which I'd recommend to you) since your models do not require supports is to print the whole design with that 15 second exposure time. It will take longer to 3D print but will be dimensionally consistent across the whole design. Then you can measure it, if slightly too big or small, scale the CAD model inside your slicing software appropriate and print yourself a winner.
Hopefully I understood correctly and this will help 😊
This video is super helpful, but can you ask your mom to take the linen off your sweater before you make videos?
Thanks for the recommendation to this video. What would you consider to be the optimal times to wash and cure on the post processing? Since you state IPA kills the most tiny details and curing could also cause overexposure?
Would you share some recommendations on the optimal time spent washing and curing please?
Thanks again for all your wisdom
I'll hit each module for 10 minutes in the IPA Wash station at low. Then I'll hit the models with 5 minute cure at slow speed, rotate the model so the bottom faces up, then do another 5 minute cure. After that it should be all good to go 😊 If it still feels tacky I hit it with 5 more minutes of curing.
WOW! Impresive information
Awesome video. Thank you! Very very informative to a resin printing newbie like myself.
My pleasure 😊 thank you for the comment
all the information here is gold jerry, gold!
The word is "adhesion". An adhesive adheres to a surface by means of adhesion. Sorry, I worked for a glue manufacturer and Don King words really bother me.
Haha, noted mate 🙂 I appreciate the expert knowledge.
The most detailed printing advice I've heard so far. Thanks. What can cause the problem that the printed model is rich in detail but does not harden but remains soft, even if I shine it with UV light. Thank you for your answer
There are different types of resin. Some newest types are flexible and even after curing they will remain flexible. If this is happening to your rigid resins I'd recommend hitting them with even more UV light or getting a new batch of resin. After a couple of months of the bottle being opened the Resin gets old and then can produce weird results.
Still got all them lines on the model there I wouldn't call that perfect! This is exactly what we are trying to find how to solve these build mesh lines that are printed on the model I see them all over the body there the details are great but the step lines are still there!
The ambient room temperature and the temperature of the resin is also important.
Spot on, checking and updating your profile as the seasons changes is a good tip, but a random wild weather day can certainly throw your results for a loop.
What resin is that nice purple gengar? I have trouble finding purple resin
do you need to scaled to fit build plate? with Validation_Matrix
I love this channel! Great videos brotha keep making more!
I might be a bit late to the party! but amazing video very clear explanations about the exposure times one of the best videos on youtube. I do have question tho! i have been looking for videos about the Halot one combined with Elegoo water washable resin 405nm. I cannot seem to find anything on youtube or the internet. I was hoping you could help me out with this, like the proper exposure settings. I have been messing around with the exposure times for the WW resin for about 2 weeks now and i cannot for the life me find the correct exposure settings.
Thank you for your very kind words 😊 and Elegoo water washable resin isn't one I have used yet. Is the process outlined in the video not working for your set up?
What about the instructions on the bottle of resin, for example I'm trying out the Elegoo ABS and they recommend 8sec normal exposure & 60sec bottom exposure. How accurate are these settings when printing.
Resin Manufacturers, much in the same way as Printer Manufacturers, want your first couple of 3D prints with their material to be successful. This means normally providing settings that are over-exposed, so that you won't have models falling off the build platform.
I haven't done experiments with that particular resin but to me those numbers seem large for a Mono-screen Resin 3D printer. I would definitely run test on it with my particular printer before committing to large or intricate prints.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks for getting back, I also thought those settings were a little over the top however after a few test prints they seem about right for my 28mm prints.
as usual, amazing video by you. a+ presentation. thank you for providing the link in the description too! question, where might we possibly be able to find that gengar in the begining of your video??
Aww cheers mate 😊 the STL link is near the bottom of the Full Written up article, I'll post it here for you - www.thingiverse.com/thing:5028132
Love your video style. Could you do a start to finish guide on crystal clear prints?
Does it matter it I don't cure the matrixes? I'm checking them fresh out of the printer and I've tried several settings for exposure and the right bottom end of the bars don't materialize
There are some dimensional changes that occur when you cure models so to get the best possible understanding I would recommend curing the pieces. Doing so also means you can handle the printed parts without gloves.
Sir the layer is not printing on the print bed suddenly can you tell me what is the problem
So... these test prints to calibrate a printer is good and all, but I did run into a very... odd issue. I used this to home in the settings on some elegoo standard translucent resin and yeah, this and a few other calibration prints came out better than I hoped, both default settings to strart with and homing it down. But in really printing something... no matter what it was, or the orientation of the object... the side facing down printed flawlessly. But the side facing up, facing the build plate and around supports looked to 'gum up' or colect a mass of resin and cure it as well. These all being prints I've had no isues with in other resins. So the side facing the build plate would come out gunked up, thick globs everywhere, bad warping and so on. I'd share photos but youtube has been auto deleting all comments with links in them, even if I try and get fancy with it.
Could this be just a bad batch of resin? Or some other factor I'm unaware of when it comes to clear/transparent resin? Could it be due to printing in winter though the temp inside and around the printer are with in the working range? It just seems no matter how I adjusted the settings even using settings ment for like the standard gray the same thing. If facing to the side or away from build plate, prints sharp and clear... face build plate and it's a mess.
I am going to be switching back to the gray just to be sure something isn't badly fudging up. But this is starting to bother me as I was really looking forward to doing a few things with the translucent.
Thanks for sharing mate, this gunk that you have on the bottom layers when you use transparent resin could be any number of reasons. You've highlighted the main culprits that I reckon it is, old resin and temperature.
Resin does last a long while sealed up and out of the sun. Make sure that you have filtered it so that there isn't any cured/semi cured resin hidden in there. Its particularly hard to see this with Transparent Resin.
With the right setting temperature can be overcome, I've seen a fellow produce resin prints in the snow (ruclips.net/video/Ac2-tnCSwQc/видео.html).
With the images I can help better, come post them on our Forum 😊
I'm a little bit confused about the holes on the left side; Is it supposed to go all the way through, or is it supposed to be plugged up half-way through as if there's a backing behind the holes?
What you are observing is the resulting model created from Bottom Exposure Times VS Normal Exposure Times. The Bottom Exposure times wont keep the model design perfectly dimensionally accurate but will enable model adhering to the build platform. So don't focus your keen eye on the first 4 layers that are Bottom Exposure Time, we're more interested in the result from Normal Exposure Times (which present themselves at higher layers)
Where is the dxf file for the Pokémon that was made? I'd love to print that one myself
Here it is on Thingiverse! All credit to Psdwizzard - www.thingiverse.com/thing:5028132
Question, do I have to change the settings on the printer and the software or just on the printer?
Literary theory video I was looking for (:
I always find perfect exp time for this model but real one always requires more botom exp time because model falling of
Once you're printing those Chess pieces you're good as golden. Models falling off the platform every so often does come with chasing perfection. But I hope you have overcome it and printed something sweet 😊
Do you make things to sell? I need a falcon straw topper , I can make my mold but I need a falcon to use to make it.
Currently our 3D printing service is offline, the 3D printing community is as immense as it is supportive 😊 so with a little asking around I'm sure someone will be happy to come to your aid
This video alone was exactly what I needed thank you so much, I have looked through heaps of videos but none break it down like this.
😊😊 Cheers mate!
Absolutely Flawless presentation on a pretty complex subject. You are really good in front of the camera and awesome voice. Stay in television and keep going with it homie.
Naww ❤ Big love! Cheers for that comment mate, made my day! - Tim
Hi,great video,but I’m pulling my hair out,when I go to settings on halot one on lychee,I have very few parameters to adjust,simply volume ,screen and default transition layers,there are other settings to adjust on the printer screen,but nothing to compare what you are showing,getting to the point of giving up
Just had a look for you and your absolutely right, the options available with that machine are less than they should. If you set up the Halot (LD-006) 3D printer in the Chitubox Slicer all the settings you would expect are there. So I'd recommend using Chitubox with that Printer until Lychee updates itself.
Thank you so much. This vidéo was really helpfull. Clear explanations. Well made video.
Cheers mate 😊
Great explanation, thanks for the good content!! :D
As always, consise, clear and very knowledgeable