I'd absolutely love to see you do a deep dive into Z-hop / lift / ramp settings and show what's actually going on at the nozzle tip in regards to stringing. There's a lot of mystery that could be uncovered with the slo-mo + macro stuff you're able to do.
@@Voluntarists really? Well what is the solution then because I could sure use it, I have yet to completely eliminate stringing (at least not in a way that doesn't cause other problems).
@@Dalroth set travel accel to 20,000mm/s and jerk to 600, retraction distance to 0.2mm and retraction acceleration to 10,000mm/s and you wont have strings
Love this, in so many fields seeing high speed footage helps to illustrate the random things that don't make much intuitive sense (like why grid infill is bad!). Then you see it... and you remember it better. At least I do, as a more visual learner.
bro i love your voice so much, i sometimes put you on when i want to calm down and sleep. I love your witt, your humor, your way of saying things, your video shooting style. Please please never stop
After printing for 7 years, this is still really cool to see these printer motion systems in slow-mo. I was most surprised by the not mixing of filament colors. Good job!
The company I work for develops and produces specialized highspeed cameras for sport broadcasts. We can do 4k at >1000fps with "regular" stadium lighting or the sun (oh and we can record that for several hours). While we can't send these out to creators (small company, expensive equipment) if you ever need a specialized shot of something (only got an Bambu A1, ancient Creality 10S pro, some prusa m3s and soon probably a Core One) I could try my best to take it (it's always nice when we have some more example footage).
the 3d printing nerd and photographer in my absolutely *loves* everything you make. unmatched combination of informational and beautiful i haven't seen anywhere else in any other category. i want more channels like yours for my other hobbies.
Came here expecting to move along after 30 seconds of mild curiosity, but stayed till the end. Funny, witty, entertaining and surprisingly insightful. Nice job mate!
Wow, the fumes coming off even pla is really concerning. I though that was about to lead into an ad for one of the filters, but it didn't. I really appreciate your integration and am taking the warning much more seriously.
Nice! The way the Creality grabs the filament seems brutal! I guess it doesn't matter in the end since the filament will be liquid in a few moments; the marks won't show up obviously.
@@PhilippensTube I have a suspicion it shows up on "clear" prints. I can't get my K2 to print anywhere close as translucent as my mk3s. The filament gets cloudy just after it leaves creality multi material unit.
@@genericfpv2464 I was using ABS, I guess I'll try more different settings. I only used petg with the K2 like once even though I've run hundreds of prints through it lol.
It's fascinating because Core XY is praised by everyone saying that the moving bed on ZY is causing cooling off and unstability, but you show that bed on Z is quite bouncing too. Also I really hate that bambulab doesn't register the filament type you feed in, and just warm at 250° no care. The filament change was also incredibly fascinating, I didn't know that at all ! This video was incredibly educative, thank you a lot really
Bouncing on the order of maybe a tenth of a millimeter has a _bit_ less kinetic energy than moving the entire bed and print millimeters at a time, I should think
@@Blooest Id also imagine that carry's over to the cooling off thing. I think the bed moving 1mm up and down comes in contact with less air than a bed slinging back and forth multiple mm's to wick off heat. Not even mentioning how most core xy printers are enclosed
i love the pics, the words, and especially the sarcasm written all over everything. MOAR! also, grid infill should be renamed to LEROOOOOOY JENKINS infill
the thing with wheels imo is the flat spots they get, you can usually feel them if you push things around and I think they can cause artifacts when they get particularly bad
@@LostInTech3D I was moving around the bed on an an ankermake printer recently, presumably not touched since the factory, and there was a very noticeable flat spot on the wheels. Having metal wheels or linear rails gets rid of another point of failure there.
Would be cool to see in slow motion, which parts of the printer are flexing when it is going fast around a corner(ringing, ghosting artifacts). That way we could determine which parts should be made stiffer.
Fascinating and hypnotic - I almost fell asleep, not because it's boring but because watching slow movement is so soothing, especially with your music choices. The Ender 3 microstep "ticks" were especially interesting. I had one for 5 years.
You did a fantastic job to get these great shots right. I think many of us would have wanted to see these. Thanks for spending this ludicrous amount of time.
Love the video! Would also love to see some slomo footage of the difference in flow between a regular nozzle you used here and a bondtech cht and a AliExpress cht 'insert' nozzle! And might those mix better/worse?
I love watching slow-motion videos and combining it with my love of 3D printing was fascinating to watch. And your presentation of the video was excellent as always. Also I think the slow-mo guys you mentioned are awesome.
What an impressive amount, and quality, of macro shots! I hope your eyes will recover from staring at sun levels of light for so long. Thank you for the amazing work, as always!
I feel that this is vital information. A lot of people can't visualize what's happening from the telltale signs in the print so seeing it slowed down and close up is great. I'll be teaching a 3d printing course soon and would love to show this there if it's ok with you.
I took the training wheels off my K2 Plus by edditing klipper, my machine held it together all the way up to 600 mm/s at 100k acceleration. The tool head moves so fast during those movements the head disappears at 60 fps. I also had manually tension the belts to an ideal tension to achieve those speeds without introducing slop. According to the tension gauge its at 30 mystery units, creality by default tensions to 140 mystery units. Would love to see this in slow motion.
More interesting than I expected, thank you for putting this together! Best I've done is 120fps years ago on the old PS3 Eye cameras, but their optics left a lot to be desired. My, how far we've come!
This video is excellent just for the photography but, on top of that, the slow motion really shows what's happening. I can't even pick a best bit although input shaping googly eyes should be included on every printer. I hate to think how many hours this took to put together.
"You didn't clean off the grease from the gears before recording. Unsubbed!" "The slow motion was too slow. Unsubscribed!" "The close ups were too close. Unsub!" Seriously though, thanks for another fascinating and unique look into 3D printers!
Fantasic! I would actually be interested in seeing what happens when a print fails. Being able to see common types of failure like this would probably shed a lot of light on the best ways to deal with them.
I work in IT and the place I work at has recently gotten a 3D printer. Of course everyone has been coming to me to figure out how to use the machine. And I've been charged with repairing it. I've become a little bit obsessed with how these things work. It's bloody miracutous..
This was awesome. I do lots of troubleshooting on progressive stamping dies and I i often use a 1000fps camera for troubleshooting. I loved your example for lighting because it's totally true. We have some old 500w incandescent bulbs that work the best. We bought some led's to try and replace them, but the light is just not direct enough. The 500w ones with great, but are super hot and will melt anything near them. The stamping dies look much scarier than this as ours run at 300 strikes per minute. At those speeds things move in a way that is frightening for an engineer. I'd also love to see a video too try and catch the input shaping in action. Show printing a part with it turned off, and one with it turned on.
Amazing video! It would be really interesting to see a close up of things like retraction, stringing and ironing for example (if possible). I hope you make another one of these 🙏
I love the videography! Fantastic work! I wonder how this non-intersecting honeycomb infill looks up close. You can find it on Printables and easily slice it in Orca Slicer.
Very cool slow motion video. This is a great way to see the secret life of machines in a way we could otherwise never experience. I bought a Casio camera several years ago and specifically selected one that did pretty good slo mo, although not 1000 fps at the resolution you showed with the Sony. My Casio does 224X64 at 1000 fps or 224X160 at 480 fps. I got it thinking I might need to analyze mechanical motion such as a firearm cycling. It also does 512X384 at 240 fps which is usually the best for what I'm trying to see because it's fast enough to slow things down enough to perceive them in human time but at a more usable resolution.
With the Flsun T1 what your seeing is the print head rolling around because on quick movements with badly tensioned belts or just bad belts in general that came with the printer and maybe drag in the linear system. I have a heavily modified Flsun V400 and only got rid of this issue for the most part by changing the bottom end idler bearings out and using much nicer belts than the ones that came with the printer. The other biggest thing is getting the center of mass as close the effector plate as possible so you don't induce more twisting motion with the weight above the effector plate. Getting the weight down as small as possible always better on any moving system in my opinion especially one that depends on hanging belts basically. It why I switched to a orbiter 2.5 and a cpap on my v400 to get the weight as low and small as possible along side some input shaping and good bed mesh and its been making amazing prints for over 6000 hours now for the past 2 years.
hi! i love the video and appreciate the time and work you put into it, but as someone who needs captions to be able to understand speech, i wanted to mention how important accurate captions are. i appreciate that you took the time to create captions for your video, but the added "silliness" in them and sections that were cut out/replaced make it really difficult to follow along, understand, and fully enjoy the video, and in some cases it can make people like me feel like we're missing out. i know auto-generated captions and other tools are available, but that's beside the point, and i wanted to share my perspective. thank you again for the time and effort you put into sharing content like this with everyone
Wonderful video. It was extremely fascinating see things in this way 🤩. You deserve a Super Thanks! I think also Joseph would be very curios to see many others CORE One slow motions ... 😁
I always assumed the small puffs of smoke you see was just water vapour as I've only ever noticed it when using filament I haven't dried or I've left open and out on the spool too long. Best to air on the side of caution and I would agree with ventilation.
There's a technique called motion aplification. You can see thing like windows vibrating from talking (and spy that way), or see someone's pulse just by looking at the hand. It's used to detect vibration and deformation in many industires. Benn Jordan made a video about sound camera, in which he talk how to make it fo few hundrets of dollars instead of tens of thousands for professional equipment.
Lovely video - I'd love to see what happens when you start cranking the accelerations on a awd printer. Let's see that toolhead flex haha! I imagine that if you can see fans vibrating on input shaper tests youll see it on slomo. Also was that a smooth idler on the toothed side of a belt!?
About grid and dragging: sure it does that but grid and triangles keep a constant layer time, while other infill like gyroid, crosshatch, and so on don't, resulting in banding just due to infill. You can read about it in one Orca pull request, now closed, called (Experimental) Implement layer time smoothing. As usual, links not allowed here
@ I personally switched to cubic: almost no layer variability due to varying complexity, and very limited dragging due to constant shifting of the lines.
@@olafmarzocchi6194 I saw your comment and was intrigued to understand what layer time could have to do with banding Z banding artifacts. I've looked for corroborating information (not the orca pull request yet) and I'm not getting it. Consistent banding is probably caused by a mechanical issue(s) and inconsistent banding by extrusion related issues. How does layer time factor in?
@@spheretical3609 first of all, the test showed disappearing banding by simply changing infill, so it's not mechanical. As for the explanation: more complex layers (think gyroid, where some layers are full of bridges, so they are slower, or crosshatch, where some layers have straight lines only) changes the time the plastic has to shrink. Like the "hull line" in the benchy, which is a slower layer due to more plastic being deposited, so more time for the plastic to shrink. Printing infill first, and printing inner/outer/inner helps, but not completely.
It would be a great discovery to see exactly what makes ringing artifacts on, say, corexy machines. Why some machines (bamboo's corexys) are ringing like crazy in a wide range of speeds (60-200mm/s), while other ones seems to not have this problem despite being basically clones (creality K2).
Would absolutely love to see a video on input shaping!! I have a Bambu a1 and it does a little shaking routine before every print, but I’ve never understood how it works and why it works…
Regarding your slow motion schpeel, I don't have any dedicated slow motion cameras. I'll simply upload my video into my cheapo video editor and then I'll slow it down as much as possible. I'll then down load the slowed down video as a separate video file, which I will then load back into my cheapo video editor and then slow down the already slowed down video file even more. As one might imagine, the quality isn't what you would consider top notch but, it always seems to come out good enough for me since most are just very short sequence video files that get stretched into slightly longer slow-mo files.
Recently discovered why my Creality K1 max gets filament stuck in the extruder gears. Turns out it only really happens when it is doing a ton of extrusions and retractions very very quickly. In my case it was when printing tree supports for an ipad stand I was making for my piano. It has an 18.5° angle so printing it flat requires a lot of supports. To fix it I have to print it sideways with side supoorts.
My brain visualised this already, but it is awesome to see it on camera. I wonder, if you could do a colour change with less filament using a similar principle to ABS braking, lots of short sharp extrudes with pauses. Maybe you could make a macro to try that and film and see if there's a difference?
13:20 "magic numbers" 0.4, 0.8, 1.6 etc, come from the z-axis lead screw 8mm pitch, not stepper motor behaviour, so the lead screw rotates 180 or 360 degrees every layer.
Damn. I always start thinking I need better camera when I see stuff like this. I can get really good macros with the 6D but not at 1000fps. I do have old Casio EX-F1 that can do 1200fps but that is not something you want to show others (130x36 resolution or something if I remember correctly) :) I wonder if you could somewhat mix the colors if you had more complex path for the melted filaments. A bit like how some 2 component epoxy is pushed out of a double syringe.
What an insane amount of time and terabytes invested in this video. Fantastic! 🤩Did you managed to noticed something meaningful between a pair pulley/belt? microsteps + belt tooth entering/exiting gear could cause VFA on coreXY?
That z axis wobble is interesting. I have upped my Z speed and acceleration recently and see a marked increase in to the seams which is actually worse when using scarf seams than with regular seams. Maybe it's this wobble that causes this ugly seam.
Also that tilting drag on the FLSUN at 18:25 is horrifying >_
5 часов назад
Well this confirms my suspicions about grid infill. I could never really be sure with myself if it actually was colliding with the part but I could clearly hear it. The question is, what infill to use that's a good balance of general good strength, quick and not wasteful?
So what infill should be used instead, then? Gyroid doesn't exactly seem great either with its constant direction changes and cubic would theoretically have the same issue as grid.
gyroid depends on the printer and infill speed. I think honeycomb is popular especially with the recent fixes in orca. That seems like a whole nother video to me! :)
@@LostInTech3D infill is definitely worthy of its own video, there are so many interesting things you can do with and not enough that i know about lmao.
I can see the uneven microstepping on my Ender 3 Pro extruder on its 32-bit non-silent version of the board without special cameras or tools and I can even feel it if I hold my finger on the gear(while avoiding pinching myself between the teeth). My 8-bit CR10S board, I can't see or feel it.
About that colored fillament change at 5:00 In injection molding it's called (i think) skin-core morphology. It's a problem mainly with injecting Flexibles, like TPE/TPC. While the melted filament goes through, the center moves way faster, than the sides, due to drag, roughness of the nozzle walls, wear, temp, material. You can see it in small roughness deviations while printing fast and slow, ie. some parts are shinier, some are matte. Plastics are not my specialty, please correct, if i'm wrong.
that is due to the non Newtonian behaviour during flow. The velocity profile in polymer melts is different than the usual parabolic profile in Newtonian flow ( like in water). depending on the flow behaviour the front can change from a very shear thinning polymer where velocity is zero only at the core creating a profile like a needle, while other polymers move also exhibiting shear thinning but as plug flow, where the velocity profile develops very quickly from the walls to the center of the capillar , creating a uniform flow wall front . Also viscosity and type of polymer plays a major role, as such than polymer less viscous will create that " core shell" appearance, as the center of the filament is hotter than at the walls. this do not tend to happen if the change is the other way around , lets say from ABS, to HDPE molecular weight also has to be considered. Also if you look carefully , you can see some " grooves" at the surface. this could be the onset of flow instabilities. In polyolefins are quite normal, and are due " although subject sometimes to debate" to slipping of the melt at the walls. A typical flow instability is called "shark skin"
I'd absolutely love to see you do a deep dive into Z-hop / lift / ramp settings and show what's actually going on at the nozzle tip in regards to stringing. There's a lot of mystery that could be uncovered with the slo-mo + macro stuff you're able to do.
not needed at all, its already been solved many times over
@@Voluntarists really? Well what is the solution then because I could sure use it, I have yet to completely eliminate stringing (at least not in a way that doesn't cause other problems).
@@Dalroth In general stringing is usually wet filament - otherwise i agree, could be cool to see :)
@@Dalroth set travel accel to 20,000mm/s and jerk to 600, retraction distance to 0.2mm and retraction acceleration to 10,000mm/s and you wont have strings
Love this, in so many fields seeing high speed footage helps to illustrate the random things that don't make much intuitive sense (like why grid infill is bad!). Then you see it... and you remember it better. At least I do, as a more visual learner.
Jeff is just under all the videos I watch, I swear.
bro i love your voice so much, i sometimes put you on when i want to calm down and sleep. I love your witt, your humor, your way of saying things, your video shooting style. Please please never stop
thanks :) no plans to stop
After printing for 7 years, this is still really cool to see these printer motion systems in slow-mo. I was most surprised by the not mixing of filament colors. Good job!
Bro, every one of these shots deserve a full video. There is so much to unpack.
+1 for dedicated input shaping video.
+1 for the input shaper video!
One of the most entertaining and at the same time informative videos I've seen in a long time! Thank you very much for this!
Really cool video! So nice to see someone do something that you don't see on every other channel. But then you tend to do a lot of that. Nice work.
The company I work for develops and produces specialized highspeed cameras for sport broadcasts. We can do 4k at >1000fps with "regular" stadium lighting or the sun (oh and we can record that for several hours).
While we can't send these out to creators (small company, expensive equipment) if you ever need a specialized shot of something (only got an Bambu A1, ancient Creality 10S pro, some prusa m3s and soon probably a Core One) I could try my best to take it (it's always nice when we have some more example footage).
That would be awesome!
the 3d printing nerd and photographer in my absolutely *loves* everything you make. unmatched combination of informational and beautiful i haven't seen anywhere else in any other category. i want more channels like yours for my other hobbies.
Came here expecting to move along after 30 seconds of mild curiosity, but stayed till the end. Funny, witty, entertaining and surprisingly insightful. Nice job mate!
Whoa... that final bit about the Z-hop was really wild! I'm definitely gonna try turning that off for most prints to see what, if anything changes.
Wow, the fumes coming off even pla is really concerning. I though that was about to lead into an ad for one of the filters, but it didn't. I really appreciate your integration and am taking the warning much more seriously.
I love seeing these super clear close-up vids of the 3d printing 🤩
Nice! The way the Creality grabs the filament seems brutal! I guess it doesn't matter in the end since the filament will be liquid in a few moments; the marks won't show up obviously.
@@PhilippensTube I have a suspicion it shows up on "clear" prints. I can't get my K2 to print anywhere close as translucent as my mk3s. The filament gets cloudy just after it leaves creality multi material unit.
@@modmen. Interesting, my creality sprite extruder is also brutal on the grab and printed some of the best clear prints I have achieved
Also if you flame treat petg, treating it basically like acrylic it's insane how clear it'll get
@@genericfpv2464 I was using ABS, I guess I'll try more different settings. I only used petg with the K2 like once even though I've run hundreds of prints through it lol.
@@modmen. Lol well best of luck, remember solid infil, slight over extrusion, aligned rectilinear, no cooling ideally and the slower the better always
It's fascinating because Core XY is praised by everyone saying that the moving bed on ZY is causing cooling off and unstability, but you show that bed on Z is quite bouncing too. Also I really hate that bambulab doesn't register the filament type you feed in, and just warm at 250° no care. The filament change was also incredibly fascinating, I didn't know that at all ! This video was incredibly educative, thank you a lot really
Bouncing on the order of maybe a tenth of a millimeter has a _bit_ less kinetic energy than moving the entire bed and print millimeters at a time, I should think
@@Blooest Id also imagine that carry's over to the cooling off thing. I think the bed moving 1mm up and down comes in contact with less air than a bed slinging back and forth multiple mm's to wick off heat. Not even mentioning how most core xy printers are enclosed
i love the pics, the words, and especially the sarcasm written all over everything. MOAR!
also, grid infill should be renamed to LEROOOOOOY JENKINS infill
So looks like we need input shaper for the Z axis then! Fantastic to see this!!
the thing with wheels imo is the flat spots they get, you can usually feel them if you push things around and I think they can cause artifacts when they get particularly bad
Flat spots are a symptom of not knowing how to tension them properly
@@LostInTech3D I was moving around the bed on an an ankermake printer recently, presumably not touched since the factory, and there was a very noticeable flat spot on the wheels. Having metal wheels or linear rails gets rid of another point of failure there.
Would be cool to see in slow motion, which parts of the printer are flexing when it is going fast around a corner(ringing, ghosting artifacts). That way we could determine which parts should be made stiffer.
Fascinating and hypnotic - I almost fell asleep, not because it's boring but because watching slow movement is so soothing, especially with your music choices. The Ender 3 microstep "ticks" were especially interesting. I had one for 5 years.
You did a fantastic job to get these great shots right. I think many of us would have wanted to see these. Thanks for spending this ludicrous amount of time.
this was mesmerizing. Honestly have no idea how you were able to edit it down. I think I’d just be watching it for hours.
Love the video!
Would also love to see some slomo footage of the difference in flow between a regular nozzle you used here and a bondtech cht and a AliExpress cht 'insert' nozzle! And might those mix better/worse?
This is super cool man! Thanks for giving so much insight on how our 3D Printers work ❤
I never thought delta printers would wobble so much
I love watching slow-motion videos and combining it with my love of 3D printing was fascinating to watch. And your presentation of the video was excellent as always. Also I think the slow-mo guys you mentioned are awesome.
What an impressive amount, and quality, of macro shots! I hope your eyes will recover from staring at sun levels of light for so long.
Thank you for the amazing work, as always!
I feel that this is vital information. A lot of people can't visualize what's happening from the telltale signs in the print so seeing it slowed down and close up is great. I'll be teaching a 3d printing course soon and would love to show this there if it's ok with you.
I took the training wheels off my K2 Plus by edditing klipper, my machine held it together all the way up to 600 mm/s at 100k acceleration.
The tool head moves so fast during those movements the head disappears at 60 fps.
I also had manually tension the belts to an ideal tension to achieve those speeds without introducing slop. According to the tension gauge its at 30 mystery units, creality by default tensions to 140 mystery units.
Would love to see this in slow motion.
Excellent dive into the slo-mo kinematics of printers. Keep up the great work you do. You're one of my favorite creators on 3d printing content.
Microstepping, especially under load, can be particularly uneven, so having the layer height be full step increments is still good for layer stacking.
More interesting than I expected, thank you for putting this together! Best I've done is 120fps years ago on the old PS3 Eye cameras, but their optics left a lot to be desired. My, how far we've come!
This video is excellent just for the photography but, on top of that, the slow motion really shows what's happening. I can't even pick a best bit although input shaping googly eyes should be included on every printer. I hate to think how many hours this took to put together.
this is amazing! Really shows how there's a lot of tiny movements that make wild things happen to your print(er)s
If I wasn't already subscribed I would have subscribed just because of this video. I love the stuff you come out with!
"You didn't clean off the grease from the gears before recording. Unsubbed!"
"The slow motion was too slow. Unsubscribed!"
"The close ups were too close. Unsub!"
Seriously though, thanks for another fascinating and unique look into 3D printers!
Absolutely fascinating! And +1 for the input shaper video!
Fantasic! I would actually be interested in seeing what happens when a print fails. Being able to see common types of failure like this would probably shed a lot of light on the best ways to deal with them.
Good idea!
Man this is a master piece of video , thank you very much for the effort to share all of thsi
this was a very infrmative, very well filmed and quite relaxing video :D
I work in IT and the place I work at has recently gotten a 3D printer. Of course everyone has been coming to me to figure out how to use the machine. And I've been charged with repairing it. I've become a little bit obsessed with how these things work. It's bloody miracutous..
Awesome video dude!
Can't say I've ever seen my filament smoking, but for the most part with PLA or PETG if I can smell it, it's too hot.
This was awesome. I do lots of troubleshooting on progressive stamping dies and I i often use a 1000fps camera for troubleshooting. I loved your example for lighting because it's totally true. We have some old 500w incandescent bulbs that work the best. We bought some led's to try and replace them, but the light is just not direct enough. The 500w ones with great, but are super hot and will melt anything near them.
The stamping dies look much scarier than this as ours run at 300 strikes per minute. At those speeds things move in a way that is frightening for an engineer.
I'd also love to see a video too try and catch the input shaping in action. Show printing a part with it turned off, and one with it turned on.
I've been 3d printing for the past 8 years and this was amazing! thank you
Amazing video! It would be really interesting to see a close up of things like retraction, stringing and ironing for example (if possible). I hope you make another one of these 🙏
Oh, I'm looking forward to watching this video once I'm settled into work. I love being able to watch YT while my CNC Mill does it's thing.
Very cool to see and the cc comments were a hoot.
you filled the gap in 3d printing content...thanks for that
I love the videography! Fantastic work! I wonder how this non-intersecting honeycomb infill looks up close. You can find it on Printables and easily slice it in Orca Slicer.
Woah, the center-to-edge purge is really cool to see!
Very cool slow motion video. This is a great way to see the secret life of machines in a way we could otherwise never experience. I bought a Casio camera several years ago and specifically selected one that did pretty good slo mo, although not 1000 fps at the resolution you showed with the Sony. My Casio does 224X64 at 1000 fps or 224X160 at 480 fps. I got it thinking I might need to analyze mechanical motion such as a firearm cycling. It also does 512X384 at 240 fps which is usually the best for what I'm trying to see because it's fast enough to slow things down enough to perceive them in human time but at a more usable resolution.
Purely amazing video and work! Yes, please do a video on resonance
With the Flsun T1 what your seeing is the print head rolling around because on quick movements with badly tensioned belts or just bad belts in general that came with the printer and maybe drag in the linear system. I have a heavily modified Flsun V400 and only got rid of this issue for the most part by changing the bottom end idler bearings out and using much nicer belts than the ones that came with the printer. The other biggest thing is getting the center of mass as close the effector plate as possible so you don't induce more twisting motion with the weight above the effector plate. Getting the weight down as small as possible always better on any moving system in my opinion especially one that depends on hanging belts basically. It why I switched to a orbiter 2.5 and a cpap on my v400 to get the weight as low and small as possible along side some input shaping and good bed mesh and its been making amazing prints for over 6000 hours now for the past 2 years.
I loved this video! Well done!
Yes please for an entire video devoted to input shaping.
Absolutely Beautiful!
I'm not that into photography, but I still appreciated the free camera lesson :p
hi! i love the video and appreciate the time and work you put into it, but as someone who needs captions to be able to understand speech, i wanted to mention how important accurate captions are. i appreciate that you took the time to create captions for your video, but the added "silliness" in them and sections that were cut out/replaced make it really difficult to follow along, understand, and fully enjoy the video, and in some cases it can make people like me feel like we're missing out.
i know auto-generated captions and other tools are available, but that's beside the point, and i wanted to share my perspective.
thank you again for the time and effort you put into sharing content like this with everyone
I can probably add extra tracks but I'll have to test it out
@@LostInTech3D that would be a great solution if it works! i really appreciate you reading and taking action on my feedback, it means a lot
Thank you for making this. Fascinating...
Wonderful video. It was extremely fascinating see things in this way 🤩. You deserve a Super Thanks!
I think also Joseph would be very curios to see many others CORE One slow motions ... 😁
Thank you 🙂
I always assumed the small puffs of smoke you see was just water vapour as I've only ever noticed it when using filament I haven't dried or I've left open and out on the spool too long. Best to air on the side of caution and I would agree with ventilation.
3rd the input shaper video. Would be neat to see with/without in slowmo and the difference in settings
Beautiful video!
My favourite yt channel, thanks for your existence 😃
Holy sheezus. This is like watching 2001: A SPACE ODYSSEY on acid at age 3 while your parents are arguing. What a rush. Do it again.
Very cool, thank you! I really like slow mo
There's a technique called motion aplification. You can see thing like windows vibrating from talking (and spy that way), or see someone's pulse just by looking at the hand. It's used to detect vibration and deformation in many industires. Benn Jordan made a video about sound camera, in which he talk how to make it fo few hundrets of dollars instead of tens of thousands for professional equipment.
Came for the interesting shots. Stayed for the Canon in D mash-up.
Lovely video - I'd love to see what happens when you start cranking the accelerations on a awd printer. Let's see that toolhead flex haha!
I imagine that if you can see fans vibrating on input shaper tests youll see it on slomo.
Also was that a smooth idler on the toothed side of a belt!?
incredible! no, actually, very credible. well done!
About grid and dragging: sure it does that but grid and triangles keep a constant layer time, while other infill like gyroid, crosshatch, and so on don't, resulting in banding just due to infill. You can read about it in one Orca pull request, now closed, called (Experimental) Implement layer time smoothing.
As usual, links not allowed here
I'll check that out thanks
@ I personally switched to cubic: almost no layer variability due to varying complexity, and very limited dragging due to constant shifting of the lines.
@@olafmarzocchi6194 I saw your comment and was intrigued to understand what layer time could have to do with banding Z banding artifacts. I've looked for corroborating information (not the orca pull request yet) and I'm not getting it. Consistent banding is probably caused by a mechanical issue(s) and inconsistent banding by extrusion related issues. How does layer time factor in?
@@spheretical3609 first of all, the test showed disappearing banding by simply changing infill, so it's not mechanical. As for the explanation: more complex layers (think gyroid, where some layers are full of bridges, so they are slower, or crosshatch, where some layers have straight lines only) changes the time the plastic has to shrink. Like the "hull line" in the benchy, which is a slower layer due to more plastic being deposited, so more time for the plastic to shrink. Printing infill first, and printing inner/outer/inner helps, but not completely.
It would be a great discovery to see exactly what makes ringing artifacts on, say, corexy machines. Why some machines (bamboo's corexys) are ringing like crazy in a wide range of speeds (60-200mm/s), while other ones seems to not have this problem despite being basically clones (creality K2).
@DmitrySholokhov very likely to be due to the resonance frequency of the frame being different due to the frame structure/stiffness
Would absolutely love to see a video on input shaping!! I have a Bambu a1 and it does a little shaking routine before every print, but I’ve never understood how it works and why it works…
Regarding your slow motion schpeel, I don't have any dedicated slow motion cameras. I'll simply upload my video into my cheapo video editor and then I'll slow it down as much as possible. I'll then down load the slowed down video as a separate video file, which I will then load back into my cheapo video editor and then slow down the already slowed down video file even more.
As one might imagine, the quality isn't what you would consider top notch but, it always seems to come out good enough for me since most are just very short sequence video files that get stretched into slightly longer slow-mo files.
Recently discovered why my Creality K1 max gets filament stuck in the extruder gears. Turns out it only really happens when it is doing a ton of extrusions and retractions very very quickly. In my case it was when printing tree supports for an ipad stand I was making for my piano. It has an 18.5° angle so printing it flat requires a lot of supports. To fix it I have to print it sideways with side supoorts.
That bounce on the bed while z hopping! Wow.
My brain visualised this already, but it is awesome to see it on camera. I wonder, if you could do a colour change with less filament using a similar principle to ABS braking, lots of short sharp extrudes with pauses. Maybe you could make a macro to try that and film and see if there's a difference?
4:47 yeah, that's how liquid works 🤣
Me after eating at Chipotle 😂
13:20 "magic numbers" 0.4, 0.8, 1.6 etc, come from the z-axis lead screw 8mm pitch, not stepper motor behaviour, so the lead screw rotates 180 or 360 degrees every layer.
Damn. I always start thinking I need better camera when I see stuff like this. I can get really good macros with the 6D but not at 1000fps. I do have old Casio EX-F1 that can do 1200fps but that is not something you want to show others (130x36 resolution or something if I remember correctly) :)
I wonder if you could somewhat mix the colors if you had more complex path for the melted filaments. A bit like how some 2 component epoxy is pushed out of a double syringe.
better camera but worse neck, the amount of leaning at odd angles this rabbit hole got me into haha
1221000 frames later, good job on the video!
Great vid!
Great stuff LiT
Impressive !!! thanks for the video !
Absolutely Fascinating !!!
What an insane amount of time and terabytes invested in this video. Fantastic! 🤩Did you managed to noticed something meaningful between a pair pulley/belt? microsteps + belt tooth entering/exiting gear could cause VFA on coreXY?
That z axis wobble is interesting. I have upped my Z speed and acceleration recently and see a marked increase in to the seams which is actually worse when using scarf seams than with regular seams. Maybe it's this wobble that causes this ugly seam.
Also that tilting drag on the FLSUN at 18:25 is horrifying >_
Well this confirms my suspicions about grid infill. I could never really be sure with myself if it actually was colliding with the part but I could clearly hear it.
The question is, what infill to use that's a good balance of general good strength, quick and not wasteful?
So what infill should be used instead, then? Gyroid doesn't exactly seem great either with its constant direction changes and cubic would theoretically have the same issue as grid.
gyroid depends on the printer and infill speed. I think honeycomb is popular especially with the recent fixes in orca. That seems like a whole nother video to me! :)
@@LostInTech3D infill is definitely worthy of its own video, there are so many interesting things you can do with and not enough that i know about lmao.
Cross Hatch in Orca is basically faster Gyroid :)
We definitely need your input on shaping :)
Absolutely mesmerizing
Love this photography!
I can see the uneven microstepping on my Ender 3 Pro extruder on its 32-bit non-silent version of the board without special cameras or tools and I can even feel it if I hold my finger on the gear(while avoiding pinching myself between the teeth). My 8-bit CR10S board, I can't see or feel it.
Really was not expecting that bounce in Z.
Enlightening as always. Or at least, potentially. What does it all mean? Well, we like solid, not wobble, and Z-hop is the devil.
About that colored fillament change at 5:00
In injection molding it's called (i think) skin-core morphology. It's a problem mainly with injecting Flexibles, like TPE/TPC. While the melted filament goes through, the center moves way faster, than the sides, due to drag, roughness of the nozzle walls, wear, temp, material. You can see it in small roughness deviations while printing fast and slow, ie. some parts are shinier, some are matte.
Plastics are not my specialty, please correct, if i'm wrong.
that is due to the non Newtonian behaviour during flow. The velocity profile in polymer melts is different than the usual parabolic profile in Newtonian flow ( like in water). depending on the flow behaviour the front can change from a very shear thinning polymer where velocity is zero only at the core creating a profile like a needle, while other polymers move also exhibiting shear thinning but as plug flow, where the velocity profile develops very quickly from the walls to the center of the capillar , creating a uniform flow wall front . Also viscosity and type of polymer plays a major role, as such than polymer less viscous will create that " core shell" appearance, as the center of the filament is hotter than at the walls. this do not tend to happen if the change is the other way around , lets say from ABS, to HDPE molecular weight also has to be considered. Also if you look carefully , you can see some " grooves" at the surface. this could be the onset of flow instabilities. In polyolefins are quite normal, and are due " although subject sometimes to debate" to slipping of the melt at the walls. A typical flow instability is called "shark skin"
great video!