Great video, thank you. I’m very happy you showed your failed magnet installation, unfortunately we chose a specific 3M which sticks incredibly to pure metal but does not cut it through contaminants. You really need to clean your build surface and sanded and clean again before installing.. Another point is that base layer shifting is more caused by too tight of a bed level than any other factor. You can usually get pretty large prints without any shifting as long as you’re sure that after leveling you can move that paper under the build surface and above the screen. Thanks again and looking forward to seeing your long-term results with the system
I got this system for my AnyCubic Photon Mono 4K and installed it before I ever printed anything. It took quite a bit of sanding because that build plate was NOT flat. So far so good, will be getting another Wham Bam system for any additional resin printers I buy for sure!!
If you tape a sheet of paper to the edge of the peel-off backing, then it makes it easier to pull the folded over backing out from under the magnet after you have stuck down the first edge of the magnet, without needing to lift up (thus bendingl the magnet.
Another great video Kris. I've been using mine for a little while and have found that if you leave the print hanging for an extended period of time, it can fall off the plate by itself.😆 Otherwise, it really is nice to pop those prints off so easily.
They're holding up fine but when you run into adhesion issues occasionally, you wonder if it's the plate. Newer printers have great patterns etched in the plates for adhesion. It's really hard to say though. You can spend time sanding them with different grits for more adhesion.
Me too from time to time. Use the included sand paper to scuff it up a bit. If that doesn't work, find a slightly courser sand paper or contact Wham Bam.
For a little less resin flying around when popping the print off from the flexible build plate and less resin mess at my bench, I usually put the build plate directly in the washing station and pop the print off the surface after cleaning and after the IPA dried. Gives you an almost clean build plate and print.
@@kerseyfabs If I see there is much uncured resin left on the print, I normally use a plant spray filled with IPA to spray IPA over the print and build plate for a quick 'pre-wash' and than punt the build plate in the washing station. Every so many prints, I empty the IPA from the washing station in a pitcher with lid and let the IPA with resin cure for a couple of days in sunlight and when the IPA is clear and the cured resin sunk to the bottom of the pitcher, I carefully pour the clean IPA back in the washing station using a filter.
Great work Kris! Just went ahead and ordered a phrozen sonic mini 4k and elegoo mercury plus 2.0 wash and cure system.. didn't realize there's quite so much other stuff to buy to get myself set up, but it's done now.. I also went ahead and purchased the wham bam FBS so I'm glad you've covered this all here - perfect timing! Can I ask do you know of any decent tutorial material covering handling of resins, prints, isopropyl alcohol etc for a beginner. Many thanks as always Andy
Very informative video! New owner of a Mono X and looking to pick one of these up. I do have a question about cleaning the actual build platet though, can you still submerge it in IPA 99 or is there a risk of degrading the magnet's adherence to the metal? I tried looking briefly and couldnt find an answer, but would love some more insight into this before purchasing.
Thank you so much for this video! How have you been enjoying your Wham Bam Flex plate for the Mono X? Have you had any issues with failed prints? Particularly when doing a large amount of stuff on the build plate? Like filling the whole plate? I just got one but haven't printed on it yet, waiting for it to cure and am a little worried that I won't be able to do a full load on the build plate as I have previously...
Hey there, I was wondering, do you still use the Wham Bam Flexible system on your printers? I've been looking into getting one for my Elegoo Mars 3. Cheers!
I use it on one of them. Honestly, sometimes I love it and sometimes it doesn't adhere well. I have the same problem though on the one without it, so it's hard to blame the flex plate. 😅
How to Install Flex Plate 1 - Clean build plate aka platform Use a piece of shop paper towel and 99% to apply Isopropyl alcohol, removing any debris. 2 - Lightly sand the surface of the build plate aka platform giving it a coarse texture for glue to adhere to. 3 - Set in Isopropyl for 30 minutes. Clean again with shop paper towel removing any metal particles. 4 - Once completely dry, prepare the flex plate. Do so by detaching the metal from the magnet. 5 - Before removing plastic membrane from back of magnet, place the magnet on the build plate aka platform with the plastic membrane sandwiched between. In other words, the magnet with the plastic membrane between it and the build plate aka platform. 6 - With the magnet properly aligned to the build plate aka platform, attach a couple of clips or some painter's tape to the edge of the magnet to secure it in place. 7 - Now pull away the opposite end to the one that's held down, this way you can peel back the plastic membrane a little at a time. Very carefully use your thumbs to push the centre of the magnet onto the build plate aka platform. The idea now is to push from the centre of the magnet out with both thumbs in order to force any air out and make clean contact between the glue side of the magnet and the build plate aka platform. 8 - The next step is to remove the clamps or tape holding the magnet straight. The glue on the underside of the magnet should be enough. Fold back another inch of the plastic membrane to reveal more glue. Apply the same pressure from the centre of the magnet and push out air to the edges. Continue this process inch by inch until the magnet is completely glued to the build plate aka platform. ////////////////// Next Part //////////////////////////////////////////////////// WARNING: Wait 72 for glue to set ////////// Adjusting the Z Height 1 - The Anycubic Photon Mono X doesn't require an adapter. Other 3D resin printers that don't have adjustable screws on the build plate aka platform. You will need to account for the thickness of the magnet and flex plate to keep that from going to far and putting pressure on the LCD masking screen that could break it. 2 - Loosen the screws on the adjustable build plate aka platform and also loosen the big round crew on the support attached to the track. This is where you place the build plate aka platform. Slide the build plate aka platform into place without tightening the screws on the sides. Do tighten the on big round screw to hold it in position. 3 - Remove the vat from the 3D printer. Place paper on the exposed printer surface. 4 - With the machine turned on, you will use the touch screen interface to move the build plate down to the home position. In this position the paper you have laid out will be clamped down. Also, the build plate aka platform will be level. You want to be able to wiggle the paper just a little. 5 - Tighten the screws on the sides of the build plate aka platform. Make them just tight enough so there isn't any unwanted displacement. 6 - Any additional adjustments to the height at this point can be made in small increments using the up and down arrows on the touch screen. The Home position can be set and everything will be ready.
@@kerseyfabs, see, what I want to accomplish is an upgrade of the Anycubic Photon Mono X 4K I bought with a 6K motherboard and LCD mask. I'm working up the nerve. So I started by looking for a video that compared the two models, and you have one. So then I realized I had watched your video already on adding a flex plate and decided to write down all the steps. Then I thought, your viewers could benefit.
Possibilities: 1) Wrong file extension. Each vegans brand and model require different files. 2) Invalid characters. 3) Filename too long. Try those out.
Kinda bummed out by this as I was really wanting to get a set. That shift from using a big raft shouldn't happen, even saying that I can change to tiny rafts etc is limiting how I were to use these. I know that prints can be hard to remove with some build plates, but I've an Anycubic 4k mono, and a little elbow grease is no problem, every print since day 1 has stuck to the stock build plate and come off with a metal scraper with no negative results. I can see flex plates being useful, but they need to be perfect to make them worthwhile for me. I'm going to just buy a full spare build plate if I want to increase the speed of my workflow. I'll keep an eye on the flex plates and see how they develop. Maybe it's just because I'm using Anycubic and they seem to just get stuff right, at least all my Anycubic experiences have been great in fdm and resin (so far, obvs).
i have a mono x and ordered a magnet plate as well . what i wanted to ask is about a spacer on mono x some say it needs some say it doesnt. You installed urs without a spacer .. are you having any issues untill now ? great video btw
@@kerseyfabs just tried my whambam on my mono x 6k for the first time got the grind sound and realised I need a 2.6mm spacer that I'm printing now. I just rewatched this vid to see if you used one.
@@ZerocoolsPropsandCollectibles You're absolutely right. I had to correct this one on mine too. I missed it for a while. I some how got by without it but I did add it later.
If you put a plate of glass under the sandpaper, you will have a better chance to sand the build plate closer to perfectly flat. Even manufactured butcher-block workbenches can have a wavy surface.
Try printing large things that I need to do all the time, the flexplate on the Mono X gets resin underneath and makes most of those prints fail. The magnet just can't hold it! Waste of money for me... on the Double Wham Bam from 1+ years ago for a lot of money. Wearing out constantly only the middle of the LCD screen because it is more risky to print on the sides of the flexplate unless you're only doing small things........
It lasted about 5 months, and the magnet plate got detached from build plate corner - failing prints. Once it's detaches, you have to remove the magnet and buy another one... I contacted their customer support, but they are looking for excuses to blame the customers. Having the flexible metal part is nice, but the magnet is not strong enough for heavy prints or the 3M glue they are using is not made to last long. In short, It's nice to have, but it's gonna fail in 5-6 months. .
Great video, thank you. I’m very happy you showed your failed magnet installation, unfortunately we chose a specific 3M which sticks incredibly to pure metal but does not cut it through contaminants. You really need to clean your build surface and sanded and clean again before installing.. Another point is that base layer shifting is more caused by too tight of a bed level than any other factor. You can usually get pretty large prints without any shifting as long as you’re sure that after leveling you can move that paper under the build surface and above the screen. Thanks again and looking forward to seeing your long-term results with the system
Thanks! I appreciate that and thanks for the clarification with the shifting.
Hey! Will there be any extra shipping fee if you ship to Sweden? And is there a new working discount code? :)
I got this system for my AnyCubic Photon Mono 4K and installed it before I ever printed anything. It took quite a bit of sanding because that build plate was NOT flat. So far so good, will be getting another Wham Bam system for any additional resin printers I buy for sure!!
I'm glad you like it and that it's working well for you!
Just bought this for mine. Made sure to take survey and have you credit for the purchase.
Thank you! I hope it works well for you!
If you tape a sheet of paper to the edge of the peel-off backing, then it makes it easier to pull the folded over backing out from under the magnet after you have stuck down the first edge of the magnet, without needing to lift up (thus bendingl the magnet.
Hey! Just bought a mono x, can you run through your settings please??
Another great video Kris. I've been using mine for a little while and have found that if you leave the print hanging for an extended period of time, it can fall off the plate by itself.😆 Otherwise, it really is nice to pop those prints off so easily.
Thanks for the info! I'm going to give that a try!
Now that you have had these for quite a while now, how are they holding up?
They're holding up fine but when you run into adhesion issues occasionally, you wonder if it's the plate. Newer printers have great patterns etched in the plates for adhesion. It's really hard to say though. You can spend time sanding them with different grits for more adhesion.
@@kerseyfabs Ok thank you.
I am having trouble getting prints to stick to my wham bam sustem on my anycubic mono x and peopoly phenom L
Me too from time to time. Use the included sand paper to scuff it up a bit. If that doesn't work, find a slightly courser sand paper or contact Wham Bam.
For a little less resin flying around when popping the print off from the flexible build plate and less resin mess at my bench, I usually put the build plate directly in the washing station and pop the print off the surface after cleaning and after the IPA dried. Gives you an almost clean build plate and print.
Interesting. Aren't you left with pieces to filter out in the wash?
@@kerseyfabs If I see there is much uncured resin left on the print, I normally use a plant spray filled with IPA to spray IPA over the print and build plate for a quick 'pre-wash' and than punt the build plate in the washing station. Every so many prints, I empty the IPA from the washing station in a pitcher with lid and let the IPA with resin cure for a couple of days in sunlight and when the IPA is clear and the cured resin sunk to the bottom of the pitcher, I carefully pour the clean IPA back in the washing station using a filter.
Thank you for sharing your experience. I love to learn from the mistakes of others as I don't have enough time to make them all myself! Good job!
Glad it was helpful!
I just picked up a Mono X for my first resin printer. Would you suggest a flex build plate right out of the gate?
Great work Kris! Just went ahead and ordered a phrozen sonic mini 4k and elegoo mercury plus 2.0 wash and cure system.. didn't realize there's quite so much other stuff to buy to get myself set up, but it's done now.. I also went ahead and purchased the wham bam FBS so I'm glad you've covered this all here - perfect timing!
Can I ask do you know of any decent tutorial material covering handling of resins, prints, isopropyl alcohol etc for a beginner.
Many thanks as always
Andy
Thanks and congrats on your new machines! I don't have any specific videos but I know Uncle Jessy and Thomas Sanladerer have some great resin videos.
Very informative video! New owner of a Mono X and looking to pick one of these up. I do have a question about cleaning the actual build platet though, can you still submerge it in IPA 99 or is there a risk of degrading the magnet's adherence to the metal? I tried looking briefly and couldnt find an answer, but would love some more insight into this before purchasing.
Thank you so much for this video! How have you been enjoying your Wham Bam Flex plate for the Mono X? Have you had any issues with failed prints? Particularly when doing a large amount of stuff on the build plate? Like filling the whole plate? I just got one but haven't printed on it yet, waiting for it to cure and am a little worried that I won't be able to do a full load on the build plate as I have previously...
Hey there, I was wondering, do you still use the Wham Bam Flexible system on your printers? I've been looking into getting one for my Elegoo Mars 3. Cheers!
I use it on one of them. Honestly, sometimes I love it and sometimes it doesn't adhere well. I have the same problem though on the one without it, so it's hard to blame the flex plate. 😅
How to Install Flex Plate
1 - Clean build plate aka platform
Use a piece of shop paper towel and 99% to apply Isopropyl alcohol, removing any debris.
2 - Lightly sand the surface of the build plate aka platform giving it a coarse texture for glue to adhere to.
3 - Set in Isopropyl for 30 minutes. Clean again with shop paper towel removing any metal particles.
4 - Once completely dry, prepare the flex plate. Do so by detaching the metal from the magnet.
5 - Before removing plastic membrane from back of magnet, place the magnet on the build plate aka platform with the plastic membrane sandwiched between. In other words, the magnet with the plastic membrane between it and the build plate aka platform.
6 - With the magnet properly aligned to the build plate aka platform, attach a couple of clips or some painter's tape to the edge of the magnet to secure it in place.
7 - Now pull away the opposite end to the one that's held down, this way you can peel back the plastic membrane a little at a time. Very carefully use your thumbs to push the centre of the magnet onto the build plate aka platform. The idea now is to push from the centre of the magnet out with both thumbs in order to force any air out and make clean contact between the glue side of the magnet and the build plate aka platform.
8 - The next step is to remove the clamps or tape holding the magnet straight. The glue on the underside of the magnet should be enough. Fold back another inch of the plastic membrane to reveal more glue. Apply the same pressure from the centre of the magnet and push out air to the edges.
Continue this process inch by inch until the magnet is completely glued to the build plate aka platform.
////////////////// Next Part //////////////////////////////////////////////////// WARNING: Wait 72 for glue to set //////////
Adjusting the Z Height
1 - The Anycubic Photon Mono X doesn't require an adapter. Other 3D resin printers that don't have adjustable screws on the build plate aka platform. You will need to account for the thickness of the magnet and flex plate to keep that from going to far and putting pressure on the LCD masking screen that could break it.
2 - Loosen the screws on the adjustable build plate aka platform and also loosen the big round crew on the support attached to the track. This is where you place the build plate aka platform. Slide the build plate aka platform into place without tightening the screws on the sides. Do tighten the on big round screw to hold it in position.
3 - Remove the vat from the 3D printer. Place paper on the exposed printer surface.
4 - With the machine turned on, you will use the touch screen interface to move the build plate down to the home position. In this position the paper you have laid out will be clamped down. Also, the build plate aka platform will be level. You want to be able to wiggle the paper just a little.
5 - Tighten the screws on the sides of the build plate aka platform. Make them just tight enough so there isn't any unwanted displacement.
6 - Any additional adjustments to the height at this point can be made in small increments using the up and down arrows on the touch screen. The Home position can be set and everything will be ready.
"ChatGPT, sum up this video."
@@kerseyfabs um, thanks? You're saying I write like a soulless algorithm?
@@kerseyfabs, see, what I want to accomplish is an upgrade of the Anycubic Photon Mono X 4K I bought with a 6K motherboard and LCD mask. I'm working up the nerve. So I started by looking for a video that compared the two models, and you have one. So then I realized I had watched your video already on adding a flex plate and decided to write down all the steps. Then I thought, your viewers could benefit.
Dude i cant believe you only have 20k subs. I was expecting atleast 100k.
I really appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
I have question about my resin printer, some of the files will not show on there so they will not start printing why is that
Possibilities:
1) Wrong file extension. Each vegans brand and model require different files.
2) Invalid characters.
3) Filename too long.
Try those out.
Kinda bummed out by this as I was really wanting to get a set. That shift from using a big raft shouldn't happen, even saying that I can change to tiny rafts etc is limiting how I were to use these. I know that prints can be hard to remove with some build plates, but I've an Anycubic 4k mono, and a little elbow grease is no problem, every print since day 1 has stuck to the stock build plate and come off with a metal scraper with no negative results. I can see flex plates being useful, but they need to be perfect to make them worthwhile for me. I'm going to just buy a full spare build plate if I want to increase the speed of my workflow. I'll keep an eye on the flex plates and see how they develop. Maybe it's just because I'm using Anycubic and they seem to just get stuff right, at least all my Anycubic experiences have been great in fdm and resin (so far, obvs).
You used the included plastic vat scraper meanwhile I'm using a sharpend metal scraper with a hammer and having a hard time lol
WamBam stuff is quality. The Ender 5 Plus WamBam kit i got with magnet is finely made. Hopefully someday I can get a resin printer and use these.
What mat do you use for under your printers?
I use a silicone dog food mat. They have a large lip to catch spills. Resin cleans up easily. amzn.to/3Jzu28l
i have a mono x and ordered a magnet plate as well . what i wanted to ask is about a spacer on mono x
some say it needs some say it doesnt. You installed urs without a spacer .. are you having any issues untill now ? great video btw
Thanks! I'm not having any issues. No spacer needed here.
@@kerseyfabs so i can go on and install it without a spacer
Thanks a lot man u helped me a lot rly appreciate it
I'd install it that way and if you have issues, add it.
@@kerseyfabs just tried my whambam on my mono x 6k for the first time got the grind sound and realised I need a 2.6mm spacer that I'm printing now. I just rewatched this vid to see if you used one.
@@ZerocoolsPropsandCollectibles You're absolutely right. I had to correct this one on mine too. I missed it for a while. I some how got by without it but I did add it later.
How does it handle the IPA?
It does fine for normal cleanings and such. I wouldn't leave it for long periods but I've had no problems.
@@kerseyfabs did you ever tried those aliexpress knockoffs?
I tried this on my AnyCube and it will not home
Did you install a spacer for the sensor and reset the home position?
If you put a plate of glass under the sandpaper, you will have a better chance to sand the build plate closer to perfectly flat. Even manufactured butcher-block workbenches can have a wavy surface.
Try printing large things that I need to do all the time, the flexplate on the Mono X gets resin underneath and makes most of those prints fail.
The magnet just can't hold it! Waste of money for me... on the Double Wham Bam from 1+ years ago for a lot of money.
Wearing out constantly only the middle of the LCD screen because it is more risky to print on the sides of the flexplate unless you're only doing small things........
Let the magnetic 3M sit faced down and let the glue cured fot at least 24hours
Wham Bam recommends 72 hours for full cure.
It lasted about 5 months, and the magnet plate got detached from build plate corner - failing prints.
Once it's detaches, you have to remove the magnet and buy another one...
I contacted their customer support, but they are looking for excuses to blame the customers.
Having the flexible metal part is nice, but the magnet is not strong enough for heavy prints or the 3M glue they are using is not made to last long.
In short, It's nice to have, but it's gonna fail in 5-6 months. .
I'm really sorry to hear that. Thanks for the review!
Seems like they jacked their prices WAY up.
Amazon has one by another company for $20.00 not $50.00
Personally, I'd pay extra to support American small business. Also, Wham Bam's products are top notch.
Put on your mask!
This man talking soooo much...
That's kinda my jam. Sorry you wanted less info.