Setting up the Anycubic MONO X
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
- Welcome to Monocure3D Protips! Today, we are unboxing and setting up the Anycubic Mono X 4K. We will show you the process on how to get the best and clearest results out of the Pro Crystal Clear resin. This resin is based on our advanced TUFF™ formulation, giving the same incredible high tensile strength. Still, it boasts non-yellowing properties that allow for a high level of clarity through the printed model.
For more information about Crystal Clear: monocure3d.com.au/product-cat...
Printer Settings: monocure3d.com.au/printer-set...
Visit our website for more information: monocure3d.com.au/
------------------------------------------------------
.::TIMESTAMPS::.
00:16 Unboxing
03:52 Printer's Specifications
05:25 Anycubic Mono X Review
14:52 Anycubic Mono X Chitubox Settings and Slicing
18:27 3D Printing and post process
------------------------------------------------------
.::PRODUCTS::.
Pro Crystal Clear Resin: monocure3d.com.au/product-cat...
ResinAway: monocure3d.com.au/product-cat...
All Products: monocure3d.com.au/products-ca...
------------------------------------------------------
::LINKS::.
Request Monocure 3D's Safety Data Sheet: monocure3d.com.au/safety-data...
------------------------------------------------------
.::SOCIAL MEDIAS::.
Facebook: / monocure3d
Instagram: monocure3d...
Twitter: monocure3d?lang=en
------------------------------------------------------
.::MUSIC::.
Track: Y&V - Lune - NCS Release
Music provided by NoCopyrigthSounds.
Watch: • Y&V - Lune | Electroni...
Free Download / Stream: ncs.io/lune
Music: Perception by Bensound
www.bensound.com/royalty-free...
bit.ly/3BXMvKN
Video Link: • Bensound - Perception ... 
Наука
Amazing team, Charlie and John were super helpful.
I was struggling with printing my dental model , Charlie put a lot of effort to print the dental models for me in a shorter time.
Thank you so much Charlie and John.
Thanks!
I am brand new to 3D printing and just bought this today. Your video was very helpful please keep up the good work. Liked and subscribed!
Got one heading my way with the large wash/cure station. Thanks for the info and I will be back to see more. Keep up the good work.
Nice unit Ray! Thanks for the positive comments and your encouragement.
this video is so great! I got a Mono X gifted to me by a friend who upgraded a couple of months ago, very VERY new to 3D printing and still trying to work it all out. This had lots of great info. Have been following you on Instagram for a while and have some Monocure resin coming under the Christmas tree so looking forward to that. Keep up the great videos and awesome to be supporting an Australian business.
Thanks Kane! You are a legend. We can only do what we do because of people like you. You tick all the boxes for a perfect customer. Thanks for supporting us and Aussie businesses. Merry Christmas!
Great Review!
Thank you Charlie and your whole team at Monocure :)
I have been on the fence about buying the MonoX .. I think Im ready to jump down and buy one ..
looks like I will be buying more Rapid Cure and Resinaway.
Thanks for the positive comments! We like the MonoX it’s a good printer with a decent build volume. Try our new BIGVAT 4K resin - it prints beautifully on that printer!
I bought one from the beginning with monocure rapid model and I haven't had a single failed print yet, same FEP film that it come with too! (but I do keep spares).
I must say I am very happy with my purchase, although the photon workshop was not the best so its great the chitubox is now supported.
I do want to make parts that are impact resistant and I'm tossing up to buy some Tuff resin and maybe some Flex, but unfortunately it seems to be hard to find information of exactly how different concentrations of flex in different resins compare.
We can help! Start with 15% flex100 into the TUFF resin. If you need more information please reach out to support@monocure3d.com.au
just got my mono x, thanks this helped a lot, my lid was not wrapped any any protective cover. my first test print is running now
Good luck!
Just a heads up on the Mono X - there seems to be two variants of the LCD screen which comes with them. One uses a flat side insert connector (black flip up flap) for the ribbon cable and has a non-polariser film stuck on the top (under the removable screen protector) which is easy to peel off (polariser built into the LCD). The second variant uses a rectangular push in connector on the end of the ribbon cable and has black fabric tape over the connector to hold it in place. This one seems to have the polariser as a film on the top of the screen. These ones are to be treated with more caution. Damaging that polariser is not recommended. Either way find a protector film to put over the entire screen to save it from leaks.
Just picked up a new one and used their base setting of 40 seconds for the Anycubic Grey resin. Those references were STUCK on the build plate. I broke all of them and gouged up my plate a bit but you live and learn. Gonna do another round at 20 seconds for the base.
Try downloading one of our calibration models from our website. monocure3d.com.au/product/monocure-3d-calibration-matrix-2/
Hi, i m now deciding whether to buy the MONO X or the Creality LD 006. which do you think is better? thank you.
thank you for all the info. it was great
No problem! Glad you found it helpful.
@@Monocure3DProTips Where is your Resin printer located? Do you have carbonfilters or ventilation system with exhaust outside?
@@BrickBazooka we use a large carbon filter that is constantly filtering the air in the room. Thank you for your concern though...
@@Monocure3DProTips a room that you let monox do its thing, or where you sit next to it? I think filtering isn't enough. I heard there's still fumes or particles left that sticks in the room even after carbon filtering
I would be more worried about the chemicals they put in our food!
Nice video - it's helped me a lot. I noticed you installed a "Wham Ban" plate. I'm very new to 3D printing and I'm a little hesitant about adding accessories and have read that you have to modify the printer to use this flexible build plate. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Hi, there were not too many modifications needed, just a slight one to the plate on the Z-axis that interrupts the IR stop. If you need help please contact our support@monocure3d.com.au
Can you print individual parts? Like print the torso/head/arms solo so you can maximize the size and therefore print larger overall statues??
Im asking bc this will be my first 3d printer and want to know if i can maximize the size by individually printing the parts
Yes of course - it's possible to print anything in parts and then stick them together.
Hi, thanks for the video.
It's really useful. You mentioned about 'bending' the metal plate downwards to that it reaches the optical cut off earlier (when using a fep).
As I'm brand new to this (and terrified about breaking the thing) is this something you did by hand or did you use pliers or some other tool?
I've taken a look at it and I can't really figure out how it could go lower? Did you bend it forwards (towards the front of the printer) in order to get the back corner lower?
Hi Andy, if you are still having problems please send us an email to support@monocure3d.com.au so we can help you.
on mine that piece is plastic. i just took it off and stacked 2 very thin washers between the part and the machine, essencially lowering it the thickness of the washers so it activates a touch sooner. They (the washers i had on hand) have to much diameter to put on both screws so i put them both on the one closest to the 'arm" of the part and snugged that good, then the other screw i made tight enough so it wont fall out but wont bend/break the plastic. This screw keeps the arm straight. Worked like a charm.
Hi, why does latest Chitubox has 2 values for each parameters in Mono X printer, I mean lifting speed, retract distance, everything.?
It now sets 2 values so you can control these settings more. For example if you set the lift height 4+4 it would lift to 8 mm in total so if you combine that with the lift speeds, you could say make it lift slowly to start with, and then faster for the second part. If you’re not sure, just use the first setting and ignore the other option, and this slicer will take the first setting only. I will ask John to do a protips bytes to explain in more detail soon.
sorry for the inconvenience, how do you get the color to be transparent and not opaque after curing in the sun? Thanks, in the last minute of the video you spray the resin, what spray or lacquer do you put on it, to make it more transparent? Thanks
Don't post cure in the sunlight. Best results are with a 20W UV light source for 5min. In the shade out of direct sunlight also works but don't go over 30 min. Even if it does yellow it will go clear again after a few days. We use MTN Gloss Acrylic spray paints (sold on our store).
If I can ask, what PTFE product are you using in the vat? I've heard a lot of people talk about it but not too many talk about products you can easily find in Australia.
We find the PTFE spray only works for a limited time (50-80 layers max) Much better to adjust your settings to ensure it doesn't stick as much.
I think the one we have is made by WD40
Hi,
I'm using Photon mono x for dental application. I'm using creality model resin , please assist me for the printer settings. I'm getting impression on the FEP sheet
We recommend you try our Porcelene dental model resin for best results, but try printing a calibration model first. You can download from our website. You might be under or over curing the normal layers?
Hello. how to do the correct calibration on this printer after installing the magnetic plate? so as not to damage the screen?
Watch from 08:22 for tips! We have bent down the metal plate at the back so that it interrupts the home detector a little sooner.
19:28 - What is that build plate? How does it just peel ALL of it off? TY!
He spent a few minutes talking about it, AND how he had to modify the printer because of it... How did you miss that 😂😂 also it's called wham bam, Google wham bam mono x
Great video!! Do you know where to buy the step motor for the Anycubic Photon Mono X?
Check the Anycubic Website
Whenever I insert my usb into my printer my 3D file shows up and starts building. I come back when it says it’s finished only to find a big block of wasted resin. Any idea how to fix this I think it might be a usb issue?
Could be a slicing issue
@@Monocure3DProTips I got a new lcd and it’s working fine
That’s a good fix!
what is a good uv power % for the mono x for translucent resin?
For our Monocure 3D resins we find that 65% power is best for the inter-layer curing and keeping the models rigid while printing by giving them more cure time per layer and less power.
What Plate Bond do Ya'll have, I can't seem to find it on Amazon, can anybody Else who knows let me know what kind is that?
You can buy from us or Monocure3D.com in the USA.
hi, just bought this printer, and immediately short circuited. Power supply block fried, dont know about printer itself. After removing side panel where ON/OFF switch are there was not fully connected one cable... could it be that cause for short circuit?
Sounds like bad circuit from the factory? Without seeing it is hard to know.
@@Monocure3DProTips probably, they will sent me new power supply adapter and new motherboard, i think its probably defective motherboard if they decided to sent me as replacement.
Getting a lot of print failures on machine seems the lcd mask stops working mid print so I am getting lots of half prints or missed layers leading to print failures. Hoping the new lcd screen from Anycubic fixes this issue as it is a brand new printer.
I hope so too! Good luck.
good video
Thanks
Is there a tutorial on how you modded the 3D Printer for it to be able to use the Wham-Bam?
Please send an email to our support @ monocure3d dot com dot au and John will respond and help you from there.
Gonna need the link for that Tyranid Spore Chimney STL ;-)
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2419334
Hi guys , i received my new mono x but it's not working properly. I'm just wondering how can i fix sticking plate problem? Do you guys any suggestions?@Monocure3DProTips
Damn, now I’m caught between the Photon Mono X and EPAX E10. Leaning toward the E10 ideally with the 5k screen though. Does anyone know if the build heights between the Mono X and the E10 are the same?
Why not the saturn :D
@@BrickBazooka A.) Saturn's are hard to get ahold of
B.) The EPAX can potentially print larger volumes which would come in handy for some specific designs I have in mind.
One downside to the E10 is the plastic injection molded build plate arm - it can bend downwards when it lifts. Still, the 5k screen sounds promising.
You should mention as well Lychee Slicer for the Mono X :)
Yes good idea! We will do another video soon about the lychee slicer.
hi.what configuration did you use on uv power
50% UV power
The instructions that came with printer were not clear for a first timer so I was hoping this video would help with..you know the assembly since that was the name of the video.
do you have a link the the Polarizer that you can could buy?
I will try and find out where John got it from.
impossible to make antialiasing work of this machine, I tested all the slicers, I put the last fimeware and it does not work, somebody has the same problem as me?
🙏
Hi There your Clip is great, I'm looking for a 3D printer just to experiment with my design
I'm thinking Anycubic Mono X 4K and Elegoo mars for my jewellery model. What do you recommend?
thanks, advance :)
We prefer the Mono X because u can adjust the power for more control.
@@Monocure3DProTips Thank you BTW Do you sell the printing also? if so I can order from you then :)
@@gjtcaddesign9139 monocure3d.com.au/3d-print-prototype
Does the printer connect directly to the computer if so via what type of cable ?
We used recommend the USB method for connection.
thank you
I got a real problem, my z limit came loose, so in the first levelin proces its BROKEN!, after that i super glue and put it again, its just a pice of plastic, thd when i print , my print came "cut" , they stik well to the pkate, but it "loose" about 5 mm of the beginig of the model..i think its the wrong cero position, by the way that pice of plastic looks bend , not like i saw here...any tips to solve this?
I m gona print just a replacement in an fdm printer..
I found that the steper dumper was broke, so i buy one and replece it , now its printing OK
Awesome!
@@Monocure3DProTips yeah, thanks , its was a litlle nightmare , but its ok now
I just got my mono x. I've been making print videos on tiktok. Seeing all the gadgets in this vid makes me super jelly. I want some of them XD
Thanks Andrew. Good luck with your new MonoX.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
You should have probably also included a leveling tutorial with it, I have seen a lot of people having problems leveling the mono x
Agreed. Might do one with Charlie covering the Creality LD-002R/H and the Mono X as they are very similar methods. The Creality is particularly bad when it comes to staying level as you tighten the screws.
@@GHT007 honestly i'd like a refresher as well- thanks for your help.
It's because the fucking plates aren't flat! I had to machine mine flat!
Mine doesn't have the mentioned top bearing, is that an error or an "improvement"?
Apparently doesn't need it
two big linear rails holding the lead screw nut in place, it doesn't need it
mine does not have the bearing either.
Chitubox for Photon Mono X not work pwx is not good read only pwmx how do you do?
See if there is an update for ChituBox? Also, you may need to update your MonoX firmware.
Hi Guys thanks for the video I enjoyed it. My question for you guys with the price it seems I Can almost buy 2 x elegoo mars pro for 1 Mono X. I know its different in terms of size and what you can fit on there, i only print mainly models from Gambody, in your experience what would you recommend? thx also just sub'd as I am in Aus as well.
It depends on the size you need, or how many models you want to print at once!! Well worth the extra cost if you need either of those two.
Has anyone printed in a cooler environment? I plan to use this in my basement where its around 60-65F. Wondering whether I should get a heater to maintain the temperature.
For resin printing, you will want a heater. I find most resins work well around 75ish to 85ish. I’ve seen many of cheep ways to go about building a heater. Haven’t built one myself, but will probably do that soon.
I built this one for home - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3442165
Garage gets cold in winter and this seems to really improve the prints.
Hi guys
I've been sent this machine by mistake I ordered a anycubic mega X I've never used a resin machine is it hard to work out I only ever print stuff for my model railway cheers Paul
Check out our settings page.
No Gloves, eye protection?
No good! Always wear PPE
These are influencers. They get money and equipment for these videos . They have to show that handling is simple and hassle free , that's why they don't show masks , gloves , fan etc... in fact the resin is highly toxic . Lying for money
We are not influencers. We are manufacturers of the resin. All chemicals should be handled with care and following the advice on the SDS.
You must be fun at parties
I just got one of these second hands, and it had no USB card 😐. Can I get any USB or does it have to be that one? Please help, thank you
Any USB stick will work - better if it’s no bigger than 8G some printers are fussy about the size.
@@Monocure3DProTips ❤ thank you
Thanks
👍🏻
What is the point in setting the UV power to 50%? if you set it higher you can use quicker layer time and thus quicker prints
If you cure the resin too fast it doesn’t cure enough while it is printing. This can cause warping and support issues. Much better to cure for around 2-3 seconds if possible for the best results.
A little light on the PPE, but overall a great overview of the Mono X. Very helpful.
Where did u buy the magnetic build plate ?
We sell them at Monocure3D or you can buy direct from WhamBam Systems USA.
whambam3d.com/collections/fbs-for-resin
Can the machine print other resins for silver jewelry casting?
Yes - no problem!
@@Monocure3DProTips thankyou
Im embarrassed to ask this.
I have just been using 50% uv power and resin profile settings that are included in lychee slicer.
What do i change to control the exposure. Validation cube videos will say, “if this is not aligned you need to change your exposure”. I dont know what to change. Im a newb. A video like that would greatly help. Start to finish, down load file to slice, from slice to evaluation, Evaluation to changes. Then reprint to validate the changes.
You need to change the normal layer duration. The lower the time, the less exposure. More time = more exposure. Hope this makes sense. If you need more help send us an email to support@monocure3d.com.au
They say his hands fell off cause he didnt have on gloves. Probably going to get banned for that. Great Video Sir. I'm in the market for one, but i'm so worried about the smell and trying to figure out how to adapt it to the colder climate here in Alaska. I might better save that purchase for when it warms up a bit.
Thank you!
I must confess to washing my hands with Resinaway on occasion. Has detergents in it and works a treat getting all kinds of muck off your hands. Must also confess that the model in the video had already been cleaned up so I was just dipping the model (and my fingers) into the Resinaway. But yes, if there is any potential to get resin on your fingers it's always best to wear gloves, and if you will be flicking the stuff around perhaps even use eye protection (Wham Bam plates can squirt resin on you if you don't clean the surfaces first). And if you have full PPE in your wardrobe on hand (cause you are that kind of person) throw that on as well ;p
How fast does resin go solid after the printing in a normal daylight room? In my case after removing the UV shield a top layer of resing started to go solid so fast I could not drip it back to vat. The same happened in the vat. Does the temperature in the room matter? You did not even place the shield there till required for starting the job.
I went to my garage with the equipment and everything is fine now, dark room. But I noticed higher UV power is as well influencung the behaviour of the resin.
Avoid using any resin printer in a room where sunlight can come in. It's a powerful source of UV light and will trigger the resin very quickly. The office print room has the glass windows fully blocked and at home I shuttered up the windows. Also try to stick with warm white LED lighting.
Hi its nice video but can you one video how to make dental models ,if its not to much to asking from you,thank you
Good idea! We will do this soon.
Wait the top of your lead screw is held with a bearing? Mines not.
Better without anyway!
2022, man I wish I got the one that had the z screw bearing. It shouldn't be too much of an issue... but the fact that they're still selling old lots without any type of added on replacement parts to bring it up to "current spec" is depressing.
Even worse I just had to spend many an hour lapping my plate to get it at least remotely flat. I decided to just stop after a certain point and pray that I won't need to whip out the sand paper again at a later time.
Also for the gimmick wifi stuff, if you upgrade the antenna to a not shit one it should connect with less issues. I've done it with my smal m300 dac before, for the bluetooth function.
Thanks for the comments!
Does the fep need to be that tight
Always get it as tight as you can! I sometimes even warm up the FEP before installing so it shrinks and tightens even more!
Hold up mine doesn't have that rectangle popping up. Has that been my issue with this this damn printer?
Not sure - need to send us a screenshot
Same problem here seems to work most if the time but occasionally I get a full black screen mid print which means print failures, waiting for a replacement lcd screen From Anycubic hopefully this fixes my problems.
Did you get your WiFi worked out? I recently set mine up and it was only a slight headache 🤕 (but definitely nothing I couldn’t handle) 🤓
Not yet, we dont trust it! So we use the USB
@@Monocure3DProTips don’t trust it? In what way? (I’m curious) as there may be something I myself don’t know (which is a lot as I’m new to resin/SLA printing) 🤓
Good 3D printer frends
Gloves? Respirator?
Was already cleaned when we took that shot. Sorry for the confusion.
What's better saturn or mono x?
Mono X - print continues even after a power outage.
@@Monocure3DProTips monox has strong Light thats why he prints faster and this produces less detail. Monox blows air out the back and the bottom. Saturn only out the back and has a intake on the bottom (like a pc)
A bearing up the top hey? Mind certainly didnt come with one
They are now making without.
I bought one today as my first printer. Wish me luck that i dont destroy it
You'll be fine! We are here if you need a helping hand!
Many many people are like me in that they got their mono x with a builplate that is very not flat. That leads to a shit tonne of problems.
Interestingly the two new Moxo X's we received recently looked like they had an extra going over with a course belt sander to A) make them flat and B) give some deep grooves for the print to stick to. So far they have worked well as is.
@@Monocure3DProTips well thats pretty fortunate for you! Haha! Mine is just blasted aluminum. I ended up milling it flat. I bought quite a bit of your rapid resin and it's the best resin I've ever used. It's stable,repeatable, and it cleans easier than any other resin I've used. The performance metrics are on par with most specialty engineering grades I've come accross too. Impressive stuff guys!
What warrants a $148 prive tag for 1.25L of resin?
Our Resin was developed by our own team, it is manufactured in Australia following ISO9001 procedures. All our resin is batch tested and quality controlled before being sent out. We pay a premium so only the best grades of raw materials are used to ensure every bottle is the same. Our team are here to help if you have any technical question or need assistance with any of our products. It also comes with a no nonsense return policy. Please contact me via email support@monocure3d.com.au if you are interested in testing a sample.
@@Monocure3DProTips How does any of that make it better than any other cheaper resin?
@@stephenwhitton4902 our customers must think so!
@@Monocure3DProTips fair enough. But still if you are trying to convince people to expend that kind of money regularly you would think that you would have a better pitch explaining why your resin is so special. You are inferring your competition is inferior but you haven't once stated why.
We don’t need to down talk our competition, our products and service speak for themselves.
Pretty sure the wifi is just for the App so you can monitor print status on your phone
That's what we found. The Anycubic mobile app lets you start prints that are on the USB, monitor the job and change parameters during the print. Don't think there is any way to send a print job to the printer directly from the slicer? Still need the USB stick for that.
Would be nice if they opened the firmware code up to developers. Could write the functionality ourselves. however I understand why they don’t.
Is it ok? Touching your resin by hand ?
No, always wear PPE when handling resin.
Wait you just soak your hands in the resin?
No I wouldn’t suggest that!
my print failed at the point that i paused it
That’s frustrating
This dude laughs in the face of PPE! Bare hands that resin like a boss. lol.
Not recommend! We shot the second part later so the print was actually resin free already!
PTFE spray is not recommended by most resin manufacturers
It's only good for the base layers of the first print job you run in the resin you have in the vat. After that, if you don't clean out the vat and repeat with a fresh coat (dried as well) it serves no purpose.
Very noisy fan? On what planet? You can barely hear it.
May have been an earlier version and now it has been fixed.
Buyers beware anycubic took 50 days for them to tell me I wasn't going to be able to get my package it was lost
This is a common problem! I hope you can sort it out with them. My advice is to keep trying…
you didnt actually show how to set it up...
If you need help, please reach out to our support team
BIG WARNING this video mentions nothing about support creation, i just waited 2 hrs for a print after following this tutorial only to be met with a mess of resin , Look into creating supports for your models if you intend to use this tutorial
not using gloves ??? why not
It was an edit so there was no residue resin around.
Anycubic makes a decent product but they are a terrible company to do business with. I've been waiting 37 days for 1kg of resin. They refuse to simply refund me for it and i get nothing but run around from them. They've seen the last of my money they are ever going to.
Buy Monocure3D resin from us or one of our resellers and we will look after you!
I'll give it a look! Thanks
should wear gloves
Agreed - always wear gloves
Explaining how to assemble the printer is not done good. Did waaaayyyy more talking then needed
👦