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This worked great. Was trying to remove a Twin Famicom adaptor from the plate and because it was such a large bottom layer it was completely stuck. Running it under the hot tap for about 30 seconds and it came off super easy. Thanks for the tip.

I love you guy you just save me, I mistake the raft and it was so thick that it stick to the plate.

I just picked up 3 x 1L bottles from the Australian modellers competition. They had a show special of Australian $50 per 1 L bottle so I bought 3 bottles. Just used it yesterday and my god is it good. My only problems is I wished I had bought every single bottle at the show as it sells for $140 on special!! It is the best resin that I have used and I printed at 12°C without any issue at all.

Wow, I get this all the time, what a simple solution. Brilliant thank you.

My dumbass used the green rougher side of the dish sponge even if it was very very gently and light it still made a fog on the damn part of the LCD, still works well but damn was i stupid.

Great tips ! Thank you

This is no the pro version. The pro comes with a heater and is 14K resolution

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my whole bottomb is made of packing tap. thanks! :P

How do I reboot my x2 for updates I've looked everywhere

There's no way I would operate that without a screen protector. But I appreciate the review!

Great Video!

Amazing testing now my prints are really stocked...

Hello, how can I do this if I don’t have attached a support

Holy crap thank you

That cap has stretched the middle and its starting to go cloudy already 😂

Is the Cr30 good or the Sainsmart print mill?

Hi, nice video. So what are the settings you’re using? I have bought one of these, but the printing is quite slow compared with my Elegoo Jupiter. What would you recommend for faster printing with the Phrozen?

Shit.i used a metal scraper.i was even gonna try a razor blade.well if i ruined it lesson learned.the screen gots 2 small scratches.

Brilliant and helpful video - I think I'm set up and ready to go. This is the first video I've found that explains what bottons to press on the printer 5 stars 🙂

You don't cover much on the post processing. You mean more time under UV, makes the piece stronger?

I needed this!

what do you do with the contaminated water after?

Won't some of the water become contaminated?

What is the solicer called?

Would an ipad work?

Does this method also work with transparent resin?

So getting the profile onto the printer involves having a chitubox-sliced file with this profile active printed on the printer.... I use Lychee slicer though because Chitubox is... well, not my favorite. If I open one of my lychee-sliced files on Chitubox, have this profile active and save it, then print it - do my future prints on my printer always have this profile, even if the files come from Lychee and never touch Chitubox after?

does the resin have to be water based for this to work?

What performance upgrade is achieved by getting away from plastic knobs?

Red file keeps pop and print not at all except rook.cpt

Lol first 3d printing video I watch and the guys in the video seem to know less about the product than I do. Is this how the whole community operates?

time to make some 3d printer butter!

I used hot glue since I couldn't find any clear tape. It works well.

More reasons to not get into resin printing 🎉

impresive video i will tri this as soon as possible

i've just order the Saturn 8k mono 10in build plate. does it matter which i select in chitu? just Saturn 2 or saturn 2 8k. the height on 8k is 210 and saturn 2 is 250. you selected the saturn 2 but is this not an 8k? when selecting printer, if you scrolled a little bit longer its just beneath it.

OH MY GOSH! Thank you SO MUCH for this video! I have this exact setup and it’s just been sitting around waiting for me to get it figured out. I will admit as a newbie this is intimidating 😬 Ty for this video. So helpful!!

G'day .....ive got to say between the Elfin which your settings where for 7 sec, my Whale 2 with Rapid an 10%mix of Flex100, i get about 3.7-4.1sec per layer at 50um. Big jump from the Little Elfin to my Whale 2. Cheers Charlie m8 for all the vids im going thru, From A M8 Downunder

G'day Peoples of Monocure3d.... i only found you in april 2023, i like Aussie made, and wish to support local where i can. Yes your prices are double or triple what other big manufactures sell at but nothing beats a local product with both verbal, Chat and email support. its all their own recipe and done in small batch's for our small population. im currently binging all Monocure's vids. as over Xmas my fam got me the 5lt/kg special of Rapid white resin 50% off and some 2kg of Their Flex100. my Printer of choice is the Nova3d Whale2, 4K, 8.9in. Ive also found 10-15% of Flex100 to Tuff or Rapid adds some small amount of flex to the model, to ensure no snaps/cracks and ease of Support/print removal from Plate. i hope to one day work with Monocure3d in some way, As being Partially disabled this hobby has helped in so many ways. Cheers from a 50yr old on jan 4th for such great all round respect for the Industry and us the Customer/Consumer. From A M8 Downunder/ipswich QLD

thank you, worked great!

G'day peoples of MC3D..... got to say this vid has aged very well 🤔not much has changed in the overall process, just size and improvements. Cheers from A M8 Downunder🙃

what was your exposure time and all the other print settings for the models

I got stuck in a rut a while back where my fep manufacturer was out of stock for 4 days. I used transparent packing tape and made my own sheet. Went through several prints before my fep arrived and it worked out great.

what about glass bed type?

Thanks!!!! It worked 🙏🙏

Ok a professional and quick video but... doesn't go into specifics on what to adjust when troubleshooting. For example how does layer height, bottom layer exposure time, lift rest times, distance, retract and lift speeds, etc. come into play when dialing in your machine with these test prints? If anyone has a good video guide on this, I would appreciate it.

A BEAST!

Why did you skip right over the calibrate feature? What is it?

Thank you so much for this tip, saved my screen! I'm using my Anycubic Mono X to expose Dry Photoresist Film onto a copper pcb. I took off the protective film before exposing, which I believe was a mistake. A little bit of resist film hanging off the edge of the pcb was gooey enough to stick to the screen. Luckily, it was not exposed to UV, which would have hardened it, which would have needed Sodium Hydroxide or similar to get it off. The water sponge method worked like a charm, the goo came right off without any force necessary. One note: Pouring water on my sponge didn't absorb, it just ran off the top. Instead, I filled a dish with 70C water, soaked up the water with the sponge, and they placed the sponge on the LCD screen.