Just like to add that we found that you need to set the hotbed / rear plate to their lowest position. If you don't, when printing long models, the rear of the belt will have a downward angle and cause the model to shift downward as it comes of the belt. This will cause the model to split open. Having the plates under the belt in their lowest positions ensures the part is level all the way along the belt. Bit more effort getting the nozzle gap right but I see it as essential for long models. Even if you install the rear rollers, the model will dip down before it catches the first roller.
Also, I suggest tightening the belt a bit after doing this as the looser the belt the more chance that shrinkage will warp the base of the model. This also requires a recalibration of the Z steps.
Interesting, I'm planning to do this direct drive mod at the same time as GridSpace's Linear Rail mod (ruclips.net/video/E7SOlJCnLEw/видео.html), with his mod, the belt needs to be raised to it's top most position, with this one lowered... Guess they will balance out somewhere in the middle with both applied. It's going to be a challenge for me to figure out levelling the belt.
I recently started using the cr-30 , I found test prints have worked perfectly without error, however the thundercats sword I have recently been trying to print continues to give me issues, as soon as it gets to the handle section it wont catch the bed. I was able to get 2 clean prints but every print between just foiled!!. Today I started doing parts for my ironman suit. first couple attempts no adhesion, I then gave in and added glue, this gave adhesion to beginning of print hopefully when i get home it will be printing a good piece!!
That's my design and it's kinda cool to see it in someone's video. I'm glad it's working well for you.
Awesome Design!! Thanks Jason. We just bought a second machine and we will do the same mod.
Just like to add that we found that you need to set the hotbed / rear plate to their lowest position. If you don't, when printing long models, the rear of the belt will have a downward angle and cause the model to shift downward as it comes of the belt. This will cause the model to split open. Having the plates under the belt in their lowest positions ensures the part is level all the way along the belt. Bit more effort getting the nozzle gap right but I see it as essential for long models. Even if you install the rear rollers, the model will dip down before it catches the first roller.
Also, I suggest tightening the belt a bit after doing this as the looser the belt the more chance that shrinkage will warp the base of the model. This also requires a recalibration of the Z steps.
Interesting, I'm planning to do this direct drive mod at the same time as GridSpace's Linear Rail mod (ruclips.net/video/E7SOlJCnLEw/видео.html), with his mod, the belt needs to be raised to it's top most position, with this one lowered... Guess they will balance out somewhere in the middle with both applied. It's going to be a challenge for me to figure out levelling the belt.
Thanks John.
I recently started using the cr-30 , I found test prints have worked perfectly without error, however the thundercats sword I have recently been trying to print continues to give me issues, as soon as it gets to the handle section it wont catch the bed. I was able to get 2 clean prints but every print between just foiled!!. Today I started doing parts for my ironman suit. first couple attempts no adhesion, I then gave in and added glue, this gave adhesion to beginning of print hopefully when i get home it will be printing a good piece!!
How has it been for you the last month or so? I’m still on the fence on the cr30.
We just purchased a second one!!
Hi, great upgrade, can you provide link to additional cables?
So glad i found this video, been on the fence on getting one, but with this conversation, i can definitely do some cosplay prints
Is the Cr30 good or the Sainsmart print mill?
Hi :) Can you tell me your e-steps?
Is there a link to purchase the extended cable you used for the extruder motor?
Link for printer setting does not work anymore, does this mod require big changs in the settings ?
it's been a few month hoping you answrer did you change the hotend also or it the stock one ?
Stock one is ok
Nice!
Thanks!
Спасибо
No problem!
Where can I buy the filament runout sensor cable?
Im still waiting for an answer
EBay
@@Monocure3DProTips can you poost link?
Just a thought and point of view, anyone who maybe thinking of getting one of these, again just my opinion open the box from the bottom of the box, 👇
Great point. We have started doing that with our latest videos!