So cool! Never thought of putting a belt printer on a well, cant wait to see where belt printers go in the next few years, I wonder if we will ever see them in the ~$300 range
Unless it's a solid concrete wall, the noise from vibrations will get amplified by the typical internal hollow walls, just like a beating drum. Don't ask how I know...
The screws attached to the studs should probably help with that, at least a little, but attaching a container of beads or dried beans or something to rattle around should be pretty good at converting any resonance into noise and a tiny bit of heat. Sand might compact too well depending on the type of sand. The nice thing about them transmitting vibrations through the wall is that there's suddenly a lot more space to install dampers, and you can use the bulky and cheap options without problems.
Try an insulated wall of your house. The insulation in your outer walls is chosen not just for it's thermal but also it's acoustic properties. However an AC will still carry vibration through such walls. Used to drive me nuts when my brother's AC had splitting rubber boots, my computer desk was against the same wall but other side of house and I could really tell when his AC went into compression. Wound up cutting new compressor boots out of old tires just to solve the hum.
Ive actually found to get the belt adhesion just about perfect in my area (ohio, were pretty humid right now), that a wipe down of IPA on the belt across the entire surface and length (this takes a while as slow as the z speed is) allowing it to dry and then a light layer of the aqua purple hair spray (again across the entire belt) will restore the adhesion. I run my unit for longer items (extrusions) and have run it for about 5 days straight at a time over the last 2 months and i still going strong. I may look into a few the upgrades mentioned in this video, thanks.
If you are a clever diy person. You could have sponge loaded with IPA lengthwise along the front of the belt just after where print comes off, gravity fed by a bottle of IPA with a solenoid to open when printer is going, keeping it wet.. Run it for a while to see where is is drying on average and then after there put a bar over it with lots of holes drilled in it facing the belt, connect with a hose and solenoid to your hair product of choice, making a tiny spray every time the stepper motor moves. Now when the belt rolls back around you have a cleaned and prepped surface, fully automated.
If your solder joint is cracking because of thermal cycling, you have a cold joint. Crimps also create joints that will have higher resistance, they are just easier for the average person to do instead of tinning your joint. What would be the best connection here would be to solder directly to the board. Another option, if you need that connection to be easily broken, would be to solder the connector on and then cover the joint in heat shrink. You can get connectors that can do thing in one heating step, using either a heat gun or carefully applied flame.
Further upgrade ideas: Put a hood over the top of the printer (in its new orientation) to trap hot air around the build region. Put some rubber pads on the contacting flats of the French Cleats to lower noise and vibration. Put that Palette 3 Pro you have on this machine. And finally, add an accelerometer and Raspberry Pi onto it to install Klipper and implement input shaping.
I have the new steppers in hand and will be installing them. Will need to see about the other upgrades (one at a time...) and will need to season the belt as I'm having fun adhesion issues too.
Very good info and upgrade options hanks to Repkord (Pooch) for pointing these out ! Joel that @ 8:15 moment was spot on !!! I am also having the same experience with my belt printer. Happy Extruding ! Thanks for making this one !
You could make something that applies a new layer of adhesive to the belt on the bottom or top as it prints too! That way it's always applying a new coat of adhesive to replenish the belt
After printing with the same machine for over 2 months non-stop, I ran into the Bowden tube issue and had to replace mine with the Capricorn. I didn't realize however that the wires were tinned. I'm doing that update now as we speak, and thanks to this video, I've also ordered the upgrades.
@@3DPrintingNerd Ya, I just finished adding the Ferrules. Had to sacrifice the print, but well worth it for safety. Just so everyone knows, the heater block wire is also tinned. E2508 (14AWG 2.5mm2) for the power and E7508 (20AWG 0.75mm2) for the heater block worked for me.
Congratulations great video. I'm having a lot of work with the printer, I honestly expected more should. Everyone in communities with a calibration issue. But she comes with a lot of things to be adjusted to really work! But let's go!
Wow, nice little video... interesting in checking out what his upgrades were and cost, I finally recieved mine from the kickstarter a few weeks ago and it's been sitting in the kitchen waiting for me to find a spot for it and assembly. I was thinking about contacting you Joel to see if you wanted to play with it as it's "production" rather than a review one.
The French cleat and changing the angle of the control panel were the best upgrades. None of the other upgrades, besides bedded or necessary. The shaft on the stepper motor is not a problem because it rotates so much that it pulls on all directions of the shaft and it only pulls with a little belt that doesn’t have enough power to bend the rod on the stepper motor. I’ve never had that problem on my CR 30 and it’s been years. Also, the rails wear out faster than the wheels so you are indeed better off with the wheels and not the rails. So those are unnecessary. He is also not an issue. I have heat sinks with fans attached my stepper motors, but the stepper motors don’t get hot at all.
love the upgrades and instantly went and bought what i could. one question. what was the purpose for the fan changes? was this due to the firmware update?
I've noticed over time that the delrin V-wheel's also wear down over time. I have an Ender 3 that I've upgraded with about 2 years of consistent daily printing and I've had to replace the v-wheels a couple of times due to the wheels no longer holding the gantry to the extrusion snugly.
I know those probably are much better. A few companies have poured some secret sauce into new belts too. I get the feeling we are going to see some fun belt surprises before the year is done.
Seriously! You don’t need all the jump-cut references. People are watching a video about modding 3D printers. It’s reasonable to assume they are interested in the subject and have above-average attention spans. The constant “amusing” cutaways are pretty poorly judged.
Realistically tho a solder tinned wire would last forever in a terminal unless you're dealing with crazy vibration and super heat over 100*C on the motherboard. I guess it dosent hurt to crimp the terminal on. But I dont think I need to. I have one of the first CR10 machines from 2014/15 I use it daily and I've never crimped connectors on the wires.
I have official Capricorn tubing and it deforms/melts just the same in the hotend. I've done pull tests measuring the force required to pull filament 10 meters through of tubing and found zero difference. Putting the printer on a wall is a very neat idea though, it's an obvious choice for print farms.
@@3DPrintingNerd There is nothing new in the fact that Capricorn tubing is at best innefective and at worst a scam and a health hasard, it is stated in multiple places that the tube should not be exposed to >240C in tiny small print on their website. Using filled/modified PTFE with whatever affinity agent they use doesn't magically raise the off-gasing point. If it was so magical, lined pans would use their blend and they'd be billionaires.
Is Naomi Wu still involved with the CR-30 community? It would be cool if she can get some evolution of her printer (I hear she is no longer associated with Creality)
Joel, you really must make a montage of the 3D printing fails as some of them are pure comedy, maybe titled "Jinxy Joels Comedy 3D Printing Fails" or can the community come up with a better title?
Part of this may be that they calculated how long it would take to print, vs. how long it would take to get a mold made and tested, for a run that seems large in 3d printing terms, but may be tiny for injection molding. Let's say that they need something like 10,000 parts and printing 24/7 they can get that job done in 2 months. If it's going to take a month to get the first run on the mold, and find that the mold needs re-work for the job they have in mind, and that's going to take a month, or a second draft of the mold is going to take a month, they just ate the production budget. The other side of this is that this allows them to have something to take to market while waiting on the mold for injection molding. They can also slipstream updates to the design where that makes sense, which can't be easily done with an injection molding process, as you need to have someone make up a new mold. Now if you need 30,000 a day, that's going to be a lot more efficient in an injection molded product. But you may still do trial runs with a wall of these to work out the design, and have something to work with.
Hi Joel, the CR-30 is a pretty interesting machine, but your hint about the Capricorn tubing feels misleading. As far as I know, it is still "just" PTFE, meaning it will degrade at a certain temperature. I don't know where you got that 340°C from, but I'm assuming it's a typo and means 240°C? Even at those temperatures, I don't want to risk the fumes coming from the degrading PTFE, I always prefer all-metal heatbreaks. Greetings!
Thinking about adding one to my small print farm. Now that it is 2 years later, what do you think on them? Do you still use them? Thanks for your time and response.
It might be worth treating the belt in glycerin. Condition the rubber so that it's as soft and pliable as can be. I really don't like the idea of applying IPA to black rubber, makes the rubber brittle over time if you keep doing that.
Bed adhesion is a problem with every 3D printer. The only thing that works for me is a heated bed at 60° and glue stick. The glue stick should be fully dried. Use a 'feeler gauge' to level your bed, they are cheap tools. To level your bed, select the feeler gauge that best matches your z starting height. For my Ender 3, I start at 0.28mm, so I use a 0.279mm 'feeler gauge'. Zero bed and move to starting z position. Adjust knobs to have light pressure. Recheck each corner twice. I am working on a very large robot, check out my channel, update coming soon.
Honest question... have you tried this thing with warp-prone materials like ASA, ABS, and/or Nylon? This video made me wonder about the feasibility of making some kind of "booth" (or at least a stand with a curtain around it) for an enclosure, but the adhesion to the belt - and what happens when such a material leaves the belt - makes me wonder if that's just not going to work. Watching some of your more recent vids, such an experiment seems right up there with the craziness you enjoy.
Were the interior modifications limited to moving the fan I/O and putting ferrules on the mains? I'd love to see and extended video on calibrating z-steps.
Yes, for interior modifications, that was it. I am releasing an extended cut to my Patreon audience this evening on that. Just more in deptch on the moves and crimping the ferrules. As for calibrating Z steps, have a look here: ruclips.net/video/fESyPRpbJVc/видео.html
0:23 I see different printers are printing at different positions on the belt. Looks like this is done to ensure they end up in the right bins? I guess you can rotate different parts between printers to use the full width of the belt (lengthening the interval between belt treatments/replacements). Is there any reason why you wouldn't instead slice a series of the same model at different X positions (but still staggered in Y)?
My ender3 is almost a caddy , so many upgrades ill never get my money back lol. But once I'm done I think I'll be looking at the cr30 fory next printer .
I noticed an air vent, presumably from your heating/cooling system right next to the printer. Doesn’t that mess with the part cooling? Or is that vent blocked off?
I was looking at my printer and was thinking about doing crimp connections to my power board. And after having hearing about the potential fire hazard ill be doing that today
One thing that trigerred me in this vid: Capricorn doesn't endure higher temperatures, you can't just cross chemical boundaries, they do have tighter tolerances but temp claims are fake
I am so close to throwing my cr30 in the garbage. My part is petg and I have only been able to get good adhesion for one cycle that lasted a few days. Changed Capricorn, all metal hot end, and cleaned the crap out of the belt still no luck. Will have to try some of these upgrades but getting close to going office space on this turd....
Aww crud. I think you're like me and just want the stupid belt to be better. Matterhackers and Ultistik are both working on better belt solutions. Don't toss it yet!
@@3DPrintingNerd I hope that will be the case and this printer doesn't just end up being a passing fad. For now I just keep printing my parts on the prusa.
Love the video, thanks for the highlights. I hope everyone likes my stepper upgrade.
I'm expecting mine within a few days... looking forward to it
immediately went and purchased after seeing this video!
Installing mine this weekend!
Between this and Aurora Tech Channel chick I feel like I just gained a decade worth of knowledge and I haven't even bought one yet
Seems like the upgrades for the CR-30 from Repkord are no longer available. Too bad. I just got a CR-30 that I was going to fully upgrade...
Some seriously good upgrades, might need to retrofit mine! The original design with that timing pulley so far out was just... awful.
Yeah but its what Creality are known for!
Hi Make’s Muse, PM me we can just send you motor upgrade kit.
@@ldomotorsjason3488 cheers! The CR-30's in storage while I reorganise but will get in touch when ready to pull it out :)
@@ldomotorsjason3488 sign me up homie, the whole printer too please * - *
@@ldomotorsjason3488 feel free to send others upgrade motor kit. I am sure everyone would appreciate it 👍🙏🇦🇺🇦🇺
I LOVE that y'all talk about the heating wires and moving to ferrules. This is such an overlooked safety upgrade
Pooch did some pretty great upgrades there 😎 Love the LDO stepper housings
Nice upgrade tips.
Awww thanks dude!
@@3DPrintingNerd Just the tips, and only for a second
Yeah, definitely could not have had that happen at a better time! Upgrades look great! We are excited for our first belt printer coming soon!
So cool! Never thought of putting a belt printer on a well, cant wait to see where belt printers go in the next few years, I wonder if we will ever see them in the ~$300 range
How deep is this well? How will you get the prints out after?
You absolutely will see them in the cheap price range soon.
Daniel Cockerton been 5 months tho
Pooch is an extremely awesome guy, he sold me 20 CR-30s. Definitely recommend doing business with him.
Can’t wait to hang these on my wall.
20 ?!?!?
What are you going to do with 20 CR-30s?
What are you printing?
@@CardSearcher911 I’ll be launching our RUclips channel soon.
@@CardSearcher911 I’m waiting on buying a building for our factory next week.
@@OfficialNetDevil is it released yet
Where is the yt channel
Amazing definitely picking up these upgrades
How can you not absolutely love this "Hobby". So cool guys.
Love it when videos are informative and humorous and not too serious. Keep up the good work.
Unless it's a solid concrete wall, the noise from vibrations will get amplified by the typical internal hollow walls, just like a beating drum.
Don't ask how I know...
With dampers in between it should help
The screws attached to the studs should probably help with that, at least a little, but attaching a container of beads or dried beans or something to rattle around should be pretty good at converting any resonance into noise and a tiny bit of heat. Sand might compact too well depending on the type of sand.
The nice thing about them transmitting vibrations through the wall is that there's suddenly a lot more space to install dampers, and you can use the bulky and cheap options without problems.
Try an insulated wall of your house. The insulation in your outer walls is chosen not just for it's thermal but also it's acoustic properties. However an AC will still carry vibration through such walls. Used to drive me nuts when my brother's AC had splitting rubber boots, my computer desk was against the same wall but other side of house and I could really tell when his AC went into compression. Wound up cutting new compressor boots out of old tires just to solve the hum.
how you know? XD
Run two and flip the print so they're always running opposite
Holy hell!!
😳😳😳😳
I have one of these and still haven’t hung it on the wall yet 😂🤣 or updated the firmware
PUT IT ON THE WALL CLAYTON
Get it together man!
As soon as I buy a house in Seattle I’m wall hanging mine forrrrr sure!!
Wait, are you local? Are you in Seattle?
@@3DPrintingNerd soon to be! Hopefully around January
Joel! You have been putting out so much content lately I'm having trouble keeping up. Keep up the great work! High-5!
HEY DUDE! Thank you, we will!
Nothin like a little bit of good ol NPA! Nano Polymer Adhesive for the WIN! :D thanks for the shoutout! :)
Do you have any retailers selling it in Europe? would like to get some to try
Ive actually found to get the belt adhesion just about perfect in my area (ohio, were pretty humid right now), that a wipe down of IPA on the belt across the entire surface and length (this takes a while as slow as the z speed is) allowing it to dry and then a light layer of the aqua purple hair spray (again across the entire belt) will restore the adhesion. I run my unit for longer items (extrusions) and have run it for about 5 days straight at a time over the last 2 months and i still going strong. I may look into a few the upgrades mentioned in this video, thanks.
If you are a clever diy person. You could have sponge loaded with IPA lengthwise along the front of the belt just after where print comes off, gravity fed by a bottle of IPA with a solenoid to open when printer is going, keeping it wet.. Run it for a while to see where is is drying on average and then after there put a bar over it with lots of holes drilled in it facing the belt, connect with a hose and solenoid to your hair product of choice, making a tiny spray every time the stepper motor moves. Now when the belt rolls back around you have a cleaned and prepped surface, fully automated.
I like how you took sort of a "belt and suspenders" approach to the CR30 ;-) Great video!
If your solder joint is cracking because of thermal cycling, you have a cold joint. Crimps also create joints that will have higher resistance, they are just easier for the average person to do instead of tinning your joint. What would be the best connection here would be to solder directly to the board. Another option, if you need that connection to be easily broken, would be to solder the connector on and then cover the joint in heat shrink. You can get connectors that can do thing in one heating step, using either a heat gun or carefully applied flame.
Further upgrade ideas: Put a hood over the top of the printer (in its new orientation) to trap hot air around the build region. Put some rubber pads on the contacting flats of the French Cleats to lower noise and vibration. Put that Palette 3 Pro you have on this machine. And finally, add an accelerometer and Raspberry Pi onto it to install Klipper and implement input shaping.
Looks like an awesome setup! Thanks for sharing the process of setting these up, you guys are legends! 👌
YESSSS! I’ve been waiting for this video!
I have the new steppers in hand and will be installing them. Will need to see about the other upgrades (one at a time...) and will need to season the belt as I'm having fun adhesion issues too.
Season it with hairspray. No joke.
@@3DPrintingNerd if only I had that on me at the moment :P
@@3DPrintingNerd Yes, hair spray works very well!
I've been watching you for 5 years and just picked up my first printer
I get so s
Giddy over 3d printer videos like this.
Very good info and upgrade options hanks to Repkord (Pooch) for pointing these out ! Joel that @ 8:15 moment was spot on !!! I am also having the same experience with my belt printer. Happy Extruding ! Thanks for making this one !
my best 10mins of 3d printing on YT so far xD
That's a brilliant idea. Thanks for sharing.
What an awesome video! Just great to see those printers in action and what makes them able to run 24/7
You could make something that applies a new layer of adhesive to the belt on the bottom or top as it prints too! That way it's always applying a new coat of adhesive to replenish the belt
Now this helps me ALOT !!
I hope the French cleats are a little more structurally sound than the Pooch Table....lol
After printing with the same machine for over 2 months non-stop, I ran into the Bowden tube issue and had to replace mine with the Capricorn. I didn't realize however that the wires were tinned. I'm doing that update now as we speak, and thanks to this video, I've also ordered the upgrades.
I bet you're going to like those upgrades, and I AM SO HAPPY you're getting rid of those tinned wires!
@@3DPrintingNerd Ya, I just finished adding the Ferrules. Had to sacrifice the print, but well worth it for safety. Just so everyone knows, the heater block wire is also tinned. E2508 (14AWG 2.5mm2) for the power and E7508 (20AWG 0.75mm2) for the heater block worked for me.
Congratulations great video. I'm having a lot of work with the printer, I honestly expected more should. Everyone in communities with a calibration issue. But she comes with a lot of things to be adjusted to really work! But let's go!
The editor was having a lot of fun
I can't wait until Voxelab makes a CR-30 for half the price. 🤩
Amen
Very clever adaptations. Thanks!
These upgrades are awesome! I definitely have to get the list before I get this monster printer.
I'd love that setup, amazing.
I think you could even invent a alc cleaning sponge system on the top roll of the belt. So you always have a clean belt
Interesting. I'm waiting to see how many other companies make a 3D Belt Printer besides Creality.
iFactory, Kywoo, Powerbelt3d, and of course blackbelt
Good to see you working with Pooch. Miss him from Hot Makes.
Very thankful I got the chance to host him for a few days!
Premature ejection happens with 4 out of 4 men using stock creality machines. 😁
That's what she said!!!
Ironically I just watched a video about upside down printing helping certain projects. This actually makes more sense again.
Wow, nice little video... interesting in checking out what his upgrades were and cost, I finally recieved mine from the kickstarter a few weeks ago and it's been sitting in the kitchen waiting for me to find a spot for it and assembly. I was thinking about contacting you Joel to see if you wanted to play with it as it's "production" rather than a review one.
The French cleat and changing the angle of the control panel were the best upgrades. None of the other upgrades, besides bedded or necessary. The shaft on the stepper motor is not a problem because it rotates so much that it pulls on all directions of the shaft and it only pulls with a little belt that doesn’t have enough power to bend the rod on the stepper motor. I’ve never had that problem on my CR 30 and it’s been years.
Also, the rails wear out faster than the wheels so you are indeed better off with the wheels and not the rails.
So those are unnecessary. He is also not an issue. I have heat sinks with fans attached my stepper motors, but the stepper motors don’t get hot at all.
love the upgrades and instantly went and bought what i could. one question. what was the purpose for the fan changes? was this due to the firmware update?
The fans were moved to different headers because with the community firmware, the fans can be off when not needed. Default from creality is always on.
Finally someone points out you don’t want to tin your wires for screw terminals.
I would also like such a printer, as I currently do not have things to print specifically for this one
I've noticed over time that the delrin V-wheel's also wear down over time. I have an Ender 3 that I've upgraded with about 2 years of consistent daily printing and I've had to replace the v-wheels a couple of times due to the wheels no longer holding the gantry to the extrusion snugly.
We won't be implementing any upgrades until testing the machine stock. Hoping to have some nice results to share by the end of the week!
And? How was it?
Pushing to get those "Single Weld, PEI Coated Stainless Steel Belts" that Nak3D had in production would be of use i'd bet over those rubber ones
I know those probably are much better. A few companies have poured some secret sauce into new belts too. I get the feeling we are going to see some fun belt surprises before the year is done.
@@3DPrintingNerd got my fingers crossed.
omg all the reference jokes ;) Good Job man!
Seriously! You don’t need all the jump-cut references. People are watching a video about modding 3D printers. It’s reasonable to assume they are interested in the subject and have above-average attention spans. The constant “amusing” cutaways are pretty poorly judged.
Yes
🤓
would be cool if you could have some sort of extruder or arm applying layers of that adhesive on the belt as it prints
Awesome 👏
Not as awesome as those motors and mounts!
Realistically tho a solder tinned wire would last forever in a terminal unless you're dealing with crazy vibration and super heat over 100*C on the motherboard.
I guess it dosent hurt to crimp the terminal on. But I dont think I need to.
I have one of the first CR10 machines from 2014/15 I use it daily and I've never crimped connectors on the wires.
"Creality" is such a great name
I have official Capricorn tubing and it deforms/melts just the same in the hotend. I've done pull tests measuring the force required to pull filament 10 meters through of tubing and found zero difference. Putting the printer on a wall is a very neat idea though, it's an obvious choice for print farms.
Oh it does? Whoa. Hmm, what else could explain what Pooch was experiencing on his wall of cr30 printers? Any ideas?
@@3DPrintingNerd There is nothing new in the fact that Capricorn tubing is at best innefective and at worst a scam and a health hasard, it is stated in multiple places that the tube should not be exposed to >240C in tiny small print on their website. Using filled/modified PTFE with whatever affinity agent they use doesn't magically raise the off-gasing point. If it was so magical, lined pans would use their blend and they'd be billionaires.
thats such a good idea for this printer. I love it.
These guys are great... Pooch is really muscled in the arms... did a lot of CR-30 lifting...
Is Naomi Wu still involved with the CR-30 community? It would be cool if she can get some evolution of her printer (I hear she is no longer associated with Creality)
Solid bed adhesion is a requirement since gravity would always be your worst enemy with failed prints using this setup
You got to love when they are talking about it you could see the one without adhesive was falling off.
Yeah, adhesion on these printers sucks and it's not like you can just cover the whole thing with a glue stick.
Joel, you really must make a montage of the 3D printing fails as some of them are pure comedy, maybe titled "Jinxy Joels Comedy 3D Printing Fails" or can the community come up with a better title?
Is Pooch making a joke about the 0.9 degree motors running cooler than 1.8 degree ones and just waiting till Joel laughs??
Nope.
That's cool, but I wonder running a print farm 24/7 vs getting the parts injection molded
Part of this may be that they calculated how long it would take to print, vs. how long it would take to get a mold made and tested, for a run that seems large in 3d printing terms, but may be tiny for injection molding. Let's say that they need something like 10,000 parts and printing 24/7 they can get that job done in 2 months. If it's going to take a month to get the first run on the mold, and find that the mold needs re-work for the job they have in mind, and that's going to take a month, or a second draft of the mold is going to take a month, they just ate the production budget.
The other side of this is that this allows them to have something to take to market while waiting on the mold for injection molding. They can also slipstream updates to the design where that makes sense, which can't be easily done with an injection molding process, as you need to have someone make up a new mold.
Now if you need 30,000 a day, that's going to be a lot more efficient in an injection molded product. But you may still do trial runs with a wall of these to work out the design, and have something to work with.
Is there a linear rail upgrade kit yet or a parts list with plate template/stl?
what is the "nano polymer" that is used for bed adhesion the wall mount?
Hi Joel,
the CR-30 is a pretty interesting machine, but your hint about the Capricorn tubing feels misleading. As far as I know, it is still "just" PTFE, meaning it will degrade at a certain temperature. I don't know where you got that 340°C from, but I'm assuming it's a typo and means 240°C? Even at those temperatures, I don't want to risk the fumes coming from the degrading PTFE, I always prefer all-metal heatbreaks.
Greetings!
Hey from Ireland , love your work , will you be doing a video on the upgrade for the Prusa SL1 to the SL1S ? Really interested to see what you think
That's the plan!
Thinking about adding one to my small print farm. Now that it is 2 years later, what do you think on them? Do you still use them? Thanks for your time and response.
It might be worth treating the belt in glycerin. Condition the rubber so that it's as soft and pliable as can be. I really don't like the idea of applying IPA to black rubber, makes the rubber brittle over time if you keep doing that.
Third. Amazing videos! The work put into them is unreal.
Now if only I could get my hands on a CR-30...
Have to assume that the 0.9 steppers run cooler than the 1.8 because they aren't being microstepped? Or at least microstepped less?
Bed adhesion is a problem with every 3D printer. The only thing that works for me is a heated bed at 60° and glue stick. The glue stick should be fully dried. Use a 'feeler gauge' to level your bed, they are cheap tools. To level your bed, select the feeler gauge that best matches your z starting height. For my Ender 3, I start at 0.28mm, so I use a 0.279mm 'feeler gauge'. Zero bed and move to starting z position. Adjust knobs to have light pressure. Recheck each corner twice.
I am working on a very large robot, check out my channel, update coming soon.
Honest question... have you tried this thing with warp-prone materials like ASA, ABS, and/or Nylon? This video made me wonder about the feasibility of making some kind of "booth" (or at least a stand with a curtain around it) for an enclosure, but the adhesion to the belt - and what happens when such a material leaves the belt - makes me wonder if that's just not going to work. Watching some of your more recent vids, such an experiment seems right up there with the craziness you enjoy.
Keep on this !!
Hey thanks .
Hmm
The IPA wash really did work. Took a lot of wiping but seems to be worth it so far. Crossing fingers.
Print with nylon and you will never have adhesion issues again. It almost bonds to the belt permanently.
Whoa serious?
Were the interior modifications limited to moving the fan I/O and putting ferrules on the mains? I'd love to see and extended video on calibrating z-steps.
Yes, for interior modifications, that was it. I am releasing an extended cut to my Patreon audience this evening on that. Just more in deptch on the moves and crimping the ferrules. As for calibrating Z steps, have a look here: ruclips.net/video/fESyPRpbJVc/видео.html
take a shot every time you find a movie references joke
Didn't realise how bad Creality's QA on these CR-30s are, considering the thing can sheer off the motors without housing to support them...
Great great video... So how precise is realistic for pooch or others? +/-.01mm from machine to machine or how close?
0:23 I see different printers are printing at different positions on the belt. Looks like this is done to ensure they end up in the right bins? I guess you can rotate different parts between printers to use the full width of the belt (lengthening the interval between belt treatments/replacements).
Is there any reason why you wouldn't instead slice a series of the same model at different X positions (but still staggered in Y)?
It's actually happening. Pretty soon you will have an assembly robot and be able to make everything in the world with a printer and an assembler.
Pooooch! Sac town original in the house!
It would be really nice to be able to buy this ready-made
Working on it
2:45 you sure thats a 40mm shaft???
I've yet to use the wall mount that came with my cr-30. Its handy but currently im a little too busy printing things a bit too tall 😅
All good man hahaha. Once you have the time to put it on a wall, it's a game changer.
My ender3 is almost a caddy , so many upgrades ill never get my money back lol. But once I'm done I think I'll be looking at the cr30 fory next printer .
What can I say, I love the memes!
BLESS
I noticed an air vent, presumably from your heating/cooling system right next to the printer. Doesn’t that mess with the part cooling? Or is that vent blocked off?
Im wondering.. What would happen if i try to wall mount my CR10S PRO... ?.. maybe you could test it out?.
I was looking at my printer and was thinking about doing crimp connections to my power board. And after having hearing about the potential fire hazard ill be doing that today
Bought and paid for. Email leaks releasing soon.
You got a cr30 from Repkord as well? Awesome! Did you get the wall mount kit too?
@@3DPrintingNerd No 😢
I recently just bought my CR-30... but having trouble with getting it to print from the purge lines. Any suggests on configs..? Would love some help.
One thing that trigerred me in this vid: Capricorn doesn't endure higher temperatures, you can't just cross chemical boundaries, they do have tighter tolerances but temp claims are fake
I am so close to throwing my cr30 in the garbage. My part is petg and I have only been able to get good adhesion for one cycle that lasted a few days. Changed Capricorn, all metal hot end, and cleaned the crap out of the belt still no luck. Will have to try some of these upgrades but getting close to going office space on this turd....
Aww crud. I think you're like me and just want the stupid belt to be better. Matterhackers and Ultistik are both working on better belt solutions. Don't toss it yet!
@@3DPrintingNerd I hope that will be the case and this printer doesn't just end up being a passing fad. For now I just keep printing my parts on the prusa.