It certainly does! I had an idea years ago to add LED's to a neck to help with learning. One LED under each tone and connect the guitar to Guitar Pro. That would be a next level challenge though xD
@@properprinting Definitely doable though! And you could add LED’s to the body that flash or fade in time with the beat for strumming and rhythm, so many possibilities!
@@properprinting You better do this now. That sounds awesome AF! And thats the day i'd start to actually learn to play guitar with a "guide" like that haha
@@properprinting I actually thought of making an independent attachment (basically just a bit more than gluing the LED strip on the neck), but for the fully 3D printed one you need to embed it. Can't wait to see it. Congrats on the extruder!
Printing something functional on the belt printer was a fun first test for the Proper Extruder! This neck looks so surrealistic and now I have to design a guitar body as well of course. Leave a comment what color you think would be best for it! Purple? Yellow?
I think you may be best suited to print the neck separate from the fret board with ABS or ASA and then Acetone weld together. This allows you to insert the truss rob easier, and also gives you the option to print both with a little extra thickness on the "flat side" so you can sand back to flat. Also if you print the neck part like you did in this video but the fret board either flat on the bed or with the other side on the bed, you will have contradicting layer lines and warping stresses. Also, to be really "metal," you could design the 3, 5, 7, 9, 12, 15, etc fret dots as screw heads and fasten the fret board to the neck with inserts to help with clamping the two parts together.
Thanks for your suggestion! I like that idea, especially the screw heads. I think that if I fine tune that hole for the truss rod I don't need to give it all to get it in xD I like to minimize post processing
@@squidcaps4308 the most important thing in this application isn't hardness, it's how well it resists bending without cracking, which could arguably have just as much to do with the way it's infilled as the material itself.
Honestly, I think the tuning stability issue is more from the cheap floating bridge than the neck. Stock strat bridges are already notorious for tuning issues, and those kit guitars come with junk hardware that just makes the problem even worse. I could see this being a lot more functional on a tele. Simpler design with a stationary bridge would remove a lot of variables. I would be super curious to see what would happen if you sent it off to get it scanned on a PLEK machine, lol.
Yes it was terrible, but the easiest guitar I could get my hands on to proof the principle. Eventually it will be nothing like a strat with waaaay better hardware ;)
The tuning stability is probably the strings not being fully seated in the tuners. Since the neck is more flexible than it should be, you're bending the neck every time you fret a note.
I personally would've used a carbon fiber reinforced filament, but glad to know it works without it as well. I had an idea for this too but the body be printed as well (not as one piece yet tho)
This is great! I love that it worked well for you and that you just casually used your own extruder design! I’d be keen to see a transparent neck to show off the truss rod and the infill pattern.
Thinking about printing guitar neck for about 2 years, since i discovered 3d print and especially the printmill...and somebody finaly did it, awesome job!
I've made several 3d printed instruments, in the ballpark of 20 or so and 15 of them were string instruments. Seeing this video makes me want to buy a CR-30 as this would allow me to make my instruments much larger.
save up the pennies and buy a Modix instead. you are limited to build orientation on this belt printer. it's not the best orientation for carrying loads. im pleasantly surprised the neck didnt snap in this video. thank god for truss rods.
I've printed 3 banjos on LulzBot so far. Two piece neck (plus fretboard separately), no truss rods but used reinforcing CF or steel tubes inside the neck. Material was CF PLA. Frets were PITA in all 3 cases :D
@@properprinting Wrapping the truss rod in a (round) CF tube is an option but the trade off is that it will take out some of the neck material. That is a big deal in the banjo neck but may work fine in the guitar neck!
You can buy carbon rods to put on the sides of the truss rod to make it sturdier, then if you want to go further from 100% 3D print you could coat it in resin and put in some fiber reinforcement as well. It turns see-through so it just looks like a glossy finish.
Fyi, consider printing the next one in PETG. It'll be less likely to distort in your car and has the best creep resistance of any material I've printed so far. (i.e. better than PLA, PLA+, Nylon, EzNylon, Taulman PCTPE, TPU)
@@lap87 Good to know, sounds like I should try it soon. ABS/ASA has significant stress-cracking issues so I'll have to test to see if it makes better springs. Mostly though, I've only recently made a heated build chamber so avoided it due to warping.
I made a petg guitar body and found that it was much too flexible to allow for tuning stability. A full neck out of such flexible material would be tough to stabilize, imo.
Omg I literally thought he cut that beautiful guitar I was so shocked and then so so relieved that he didn't, this was a great video, first time seeing your content and it's great
I went through several stages of grief. A five piece laminated through neck. He couldn’t. So I knew it wasn’t real (denial), but he just kept it up for so long I started to wonder. I was angry. I then thought maybe it wasn’t a good guitar after all, so I accepted it. Not quite enough time for all 5 stages, but I was glad.
That's the next thing I'm looking for in a 3d printer, a belt system that lets you print long things. It's bound to become popular soon with many making them.
Suddenly watching things like this it makes me realize that's the only things that matters is learning how to play and don't care at all about the brand, the woods or whatever the guitar is made of. If its works and you can play on in, that's all what u need. The rest is jst the cover of the book
Depeding on how you do the neck, you could forgo the whole adjustable truss rod and use a graphite rod instead. Vigier does that on their guitars. String action adjustments are made on the bridge and by changing the zero fret. As per the frets, you could've done a heated arbor press, so the fret melts the plastic as it goes it. No need to print the slots.
Thanks for the info! Interesting to make the string action adjustment on the frets itself! A heated press makes things more complicated. Printing the slots improves accuracy and heated frets don't stay in place as well as the press fitted do in my experience.
My company uses dual graphene impregnated carbon fiber rods and a truss rod. The rods ensures the neck is always trying to go back to flat position but still allow just enough bend to adjust the neck if needed. I considered not using a truss rod at all but we still do for a couple of reasons. Great idea though. That would help tremendously.
Some of that rattle could be because break angle is a bit too low. I noticed that you printed the nut with the string slots printed in. You might get better performance from a blank with hand cut slots and add a string tree.
Yes, very true! Because the nut is a 7 minute print I think it should be possible to do the tweaking in CAD. To increase the break angle I can also make the head more angled or even twist it a bit at the higher strings. I like to make use of the capabilities 3D printing offers. Thanks for your suggestions!
I have 3D printed a ukulele neck before, using pla you will get plastic creep while your neck is under tension. Overtime with the strings tightened your neck will start to warp significantly. I would recommend using a different plastic.
PLA definitely is not the best material. Beyond creep, imagine placing this in a car on a hot summer day xD This was just the easiest way to see if it actually works in the first place ;)
I would print the neck and the fingerboard separately, using ABS, and then use acetone to weld them together after inserting the truss rod. You'll get better quality printing that way.
Supervet gast! Especially your self-designed 3D print head, but all the rest is incredibly on point too, including your presentation and camerawork/editing. Big fan here!
Interesting project, great proof of concept too. I do believe that you'll need both the truss rod and carbon fibre reinforcing rods in the neck for longer term stability. I fear that the neck will end up looking like a banana and no amount of truss rod adjustment will fix it. As to how to do it - maybe take a page from Leo Fender - have 3 trenches programmed in on the back side of the neck. Insert the various rods and then cover them over with "skunk stripes" of material that are glued in. Another option is truss rod from the back, CF rods come in from the sides.
Awesome job! Might be worth it to print the neck and the fretboard separate and then add the truss rod (maybe some reinforcing carbon fiber rods too). Also might make sense to just melt the frets in like you did with the threaded inserts. Really awesome though and love the color!
If you want more stiffness and tuning stability, as others have suggested, print the fret board and neck separately. Not only will this allow you to fit the truss rod correctly, but, you could also fit two carbon fibre rods, one running down each side of the truss rod. That would likely make it more stable than a standard maple neck without reinforcement. You could also improve the flatness more easily by using levelling files and/or levelling beams before fitting the frets to correct any print inaccuracies.
I would also print the neck as a single piece with no slots. instead of pressing the frets in, just do it like you do for threaded inserts, maybe using some implement to heat the arbor press and the fret.
You might be able to improve the issues with flexibility by using some carbon fiber rods either side of the truss rod channel which you could insert the same way as the truss rod. this would add more rigidity and mean that the truss rod isn't doing all the work. It might also be worth finding a way to add more support to the headstock, maybe aluminium plates on each face of the headstock would add some extra strength to help with tuning stability. A volute would also be a good idea! It's very impressive that a 3D printed guitar neck is even possible at all! I look forward to seeing more.
This surprised the heck out of me! I thought for sure that the tension of the strings would break it. And I was really surprised by how good it sounds! Awesome work man! New sub here 😎
Granted I’m only 9:16 in however I would like to add that the function of the truss rod isn’t a simple neck straightening device it’s designed to offset the string tension on the neck so when the strings pull it into a bow you tighten truss rod to straighten the neck out that’s the primary function otherwise if it was only a matter of keeping it straight or stiff we would all just put a 3 inch titanium bar down the middle or a carbon fiber I beam I’m calling it a day with no need for adjustment. yes before everybody chimes in that there ARE guitars like that and I know about the 52 no caster custom shop that the neck is so big it doesn’t need a truss rod just throwing my two cents in great content, excellent idea and really fun to watch
Thanks for your input! Maybe I've explained it incorrectly, but I haven't said that it's used to straighten the neck. Only to adjust its curvature. So yeah, you're right and I think we're on the same page ;)
Not sure it can help but raising the printing plate with the knobs gave me only troubles and I suppose it worsen also the bending effect. I would fully lower the bed and regulate the y axes offset by the firmware using the baby steps and the 100 Nm included metal blade. The procedure is described by NAK3d channel (you need to regate lower than the result you find due it is 45 degree angled) For the belt tension, I've never touched it but there are some regulation points in the front roller you can play with.
hmm, I would suggest something other than PLA personally. it's a very brittle, very sturdy material, but at the same time prone to bending and warping under long durations of stress (think old glass panes). PET is just a little more solid, heavier, and has some actual spring to it. In both cases you'll want to print it thicker, though. something like putting little holes inside the neck, along its length, or using isogrids on the inside. when in doubt, rib it. as well, if you must have structural infill, make sure it's gyroid and at least 2 paths thick. combine all of those, and even some flexible filaments become quite rigid. if you wanted an absolutely straight neck, you might have better luck printing by left and right halves, then using pins or bolts to connect the halves. if your printer is inducing a warp, printing two halves, one flipped, should give you two parts that have opposing and roughly equal internal stresses. it'll also make it easier to get that bar in.
Thanks for your suggestion! I just started with PLA to see if this would actually be possible. (the old glass panes might be a myth ;)) Creep is definitely a problem and for the next iteration I would do it differently, at least out of a different material. I think that this printer should be able to print straight and I want to keep post processing to a minimum. I think that a few tweaks and a different material would already get far :D
@@properprinting ah, I see, well, not sure on glass any more, but PLA DOES warp slowly due to pressure. PET is a lot harder to print though. it has less natural warp, so that's a definite plus for you, but actually getting solid walls without boogers and gaps can be a pain. I've experienced that much. when it comes to minimizing post processing, definitely look to m5 bolts, then. the process of bolting things together is far faster and less of a pain, even if it does require external hardware. On the other hand, unlike glue, epoxy, or so on, bolts are reusable and standard, so anyone who makes the design again (including you) will always have access to the parts, or if you go to m8 size, you could reasonably print the bolts too!
Good luck printing PET on the CR-30, I fucked up my bed just trying to get it to stick. I ended up moving to the Ideaformer ir3 v1 and haven't had a problem with it now.
I love your channel. The content is out of the main stream and you think like I do. You're not afraid to try something even though it's not been tried before. Very cool!!
Great video! If you have problem with gears you could cast them (make silicone mold) from some kind of urethane or other resin like plastic. They make them almost indestructible these days.
I tried with that test block and failed. The heated fret pushes the material aside and doesn't stay in place. I had the best result with this fret press caul at room temperature
This is so cool build! At the moment you said “I want that it can be noticeable from distance “ you already should be considering LED or other type of lighting in it.
use the three of them to make the body! you can make it look amazing!! Very cool video. Nice job! (here in Mars we can hear your hammering, but awesome job!!)
I think PLA with the u channel carbon fiber reinforcement rod or two rods with a dual action truss rod would be enough stiffness. Definitely suggest making the neck a fret board separately. You can as someone else said use inserts and screws to connect the parts, the acetone or epoxy as well. There are ways to do stainless steel fretboard with frets, if you want to go mental.
Stumbled upon you after searching for 3D printed frets. I was wondering about NOT printing a guitar neck, but printing fretboard sections with true temperament frets (curvy) for nylon guitar built in. The material would just need to be abrasive resistant, but nylon strings are not that abrasive. The fretboard sections would be glued onto a wooden classical neck that is lacking a fretboard, which is what I happen to have. Curious if you have any thoughts on this project... Cheers!
I’d print the neck bowing away from the fingerboard, that way when the strings are brought up to tension they will bend the neck straight. You wouldn’t need to put so much stress on the truss rod that way.
With color changing lights, dial a different color, or, a shaped LCD screen, touchscreen conductive 3M nonscratching self healing self cleaning antibacterial pick guard. Actually, this formula of plastic can make a self cleaning self healing nonscratchable entire guitar beyond the steinberger for durability. There are alot of interesting formulas for plastics, patent studies can be like turn key walk through to use for affordable R&D.
Cool. I don't know if this would work or not but after seeing this I'd try printing the neck out with no fret board. Have 3 slots 1 for the Truss Rod and 2 for Carbon Fiber rods to keep the neck straight. People do that all the time on wooden necks these days. Then print out a fret board and epoxy it on.
They already make those, Fretlight guitars. I can't say I've ever understood the use-case for them as student guitars. I think they'd make more sense as teacher guitars. That way the neck can be seen by the student...
Do you think it would print straighter by printing with the fret-board about co-planar to the bed, with some stand-off to the track using a support structures to attach it to the treadmill?
I'm curious to see how this neck is doing a couple months down the road. PLA will deform under tension and compression over time, how will that affect this print in a month or two?
I'm curious too! I had creep issues before and I think that I eventually have to print it out of another material like PETG or ABS. I'll keep the strings under tension and see what it does over time!
Thanks for the video!. You are a good man. I apreciate your charisma and the time you take to answer the comments and make those entretaining videos. I only subscribe to people that are really special. I really enjoy your hapinness when the project goes well. Have a good day! greetings from the Patagonia, Argentina!
3D print a whole Guitar and put places for RGB and LCD screens., and make the whole thing reactive and made with glow in the dark filament even maybe. add a Pallette 2 to the CR-30 and do it in multi color/material.
I was wondering if printing the neck would work! I printed 3 guitar bodies now (grey, blue and white) but I don't have a belt printer so the neck would have to be in pieces which might make it a bit too weak...?? I still can't play so it would be cool for display. With the translucent green neck I vote for an orange body and purple knobs.
The reason its going out of tune is probably because of the nut. nuts have to have a peak around 80% of the way towards the bridge of the guitar and additionally tusque nuts are specifically engineered plastic that doesnt allow for strings to slip. Ive tried PLA and 304 steel before and they both dont work as well.
I 3d-printed a 7 string guitar body too, next time you could put 2 carbon fiber rods for extra-stiffness to avoid ''creep''. :). Fantastic project aniway
I used carbon fiber in my printed body and it didn't help. However, I didn't use adhesive along the mating surface of the plastic and cf, so that possibly made it less effective.
Just got mine a week ago. Love it. Took me a long time to calibrate it, but print petg on it, all day long. It's amazing the advantages of this printer beyond the obvious. You can print a tube without supports and I find many places I don't need supports because of the 45 degree slice. Fantastic.
I'm just curious, what do you print with it? My philosophy as a metal fabricator and woodworker is anything that size I'm just going to make out of wood or metal. The time and plastic needed isn't worth it to me. Still cool, I just don't see any use for it unless printing swords or other cosplay kind of stuff I guess. I know it can be set up as a production machine that runs autonomously but I can do that on anything with a glass bed.
Gray for the body color says I. Inserting a carbon fiber rod in there somehow may make it sufficiently stiff, but idk how you'd do that aside from printing out a new one.
How about a couple round channels down the length on either side, drive some cf rod in each one and that should bring increased stiffness and not change the tactile feel of the neck.
I always hear people talk about "resting bitch face", but I love how this guy has "resting concerned face". Like, he's just constantly skeptical of the world around him.
Seeming as the neck is translucent, adding LED's to light up the neck would look really cool!
It certainly does! I had an idea years ago to add LED's to a neck to help with learning. One LED under each tone and connect the guitar to Guitar Pro. That would be a next level challenge though xD
RGB guitar!
@@properprinting Definitely doable though! And you could add LED’s to the body that flash or fade in time with the beat for strumming and rhythm, so many possibilities!
@@properprinting You better do this now. That sounds awesome AF! And thats the day i'd start to actually learn to play guitar with a "guide" like that haha
@@properprinting I actually thought of making an independent attachment (basically just a bit more than gluing the LED strip on the neck), but for the fully 3D printed one you need to embed it. Can't wait to see it. Congrats on the extruder!
Printing something functional on the belt printer was a fun first test for the Proper Extruder! This neck looks so surrealistic and now I have to design a guitar body as well of course. Leave a comment what color you think would be best for it! Purple? Yellow?
You should try one of those colour gradient/rainbow type filaments for the body. That’d look great I reckon.
@@thaphreak I get tropical vibes from that which I like!
Red ;) also..very cool work on the extruder there. I like it. Congrats
send that neck to stephan from cnc kitchen. he is cnc routing a guitar body
One of those glitter-like purple color would look great with that neon green neck.
I think you may be best suited to print the neck separate from the fret board with ABS or ASA and then Acetone weld together. This allows you to insert the truss rob easier, and also gives you the option to print both with a little extra thickness on the "flat side" so you can sand back to flat. Also if you print the neck part like you did in this video but the fret board either flat on the bed or with the other side on the bed, you will have contradicting layer lines and warping stresses. Also, to be really "metal," you could design the 3, 5, 7, 9, 12, 15, etc fret dots as screw heads and fasten the fret board to the neck with inserts to help with clamping the two parts together.
Thanks for your suggestion! I like that idea, especially the screw heads. I think that if I fine tune that hole for the truss rod I don't need to give it all to get it in xD I like to minimize post processing
Love seeing your Brewers logo! Teddy Higuera for the win!!!
ABS is not as hard as PLA, and between the two.. PLA beats ABS for this particular use, hardness is required.
And, add some carbon fiber rods. (like what Kiesel does to their necks)
@@squidcaps4308 the most important thing in this application isn't hardness, it's how well it resists bending without cracking, which could arguably have just as much to do with the way it's infilled as the material itself.
Honestly, I think the tuning stability issue is more from the cheap floating bridge than the neck. Stock strat bridges are already notorious for tuning issues, and those kit guitars come with junk hardware that just makes the problem even worse.
I could see this being a lot more functional on a tele. Simpler design with a stationary bridge would remove a lot of variables. I would be super curious to see what would happen if you sent it off to get it scanned on a PLEK machine, lol.
Yes it was terrible, but the easiest guitar I could get my hands on to proof the principle. Eventually it will be nothing like a strat with waaaay better hardware ;)
The tuning stability is probably the strings not being fully seated in the tuners. Since the neck is more flexible than it should be, you're bending the neck every time you fret a note.
@TriVos Ahren A year? You're optimistic xD
@TriVos Ahren If you reinforce it, yes.
@TriVos Ahren I was thinking more of glass fiber reinforced plastic. Something that's used on power tools and the like.
This is so awesome!
Thanks Naomi! The possibilities this printer enables is so cool!
@@properprinting Is your fully 3D printed guitar done yet?
I like the way you figure printing a guitar neck isn’t hard enough so you decide to design your own extruder to go with it. Epic. Love the vid.
Just add as many variables as possible 😆
Printing a guitar neck isn't hard.
FANTASTIC BUILD!!!!
Thanks Joel!
I personally would've used a carbon fiber reinforced filament, but glad to know it works without it as well. I had an idea for this too but the body be printed as well (not as one piece yet tho)
This is great! I love that it worked well for you and that you just casually used your own extruder design! I’d be keen to see a transparent neck to show off the truss rod and the infill pattern.
Thinking about printing guitar neck for about 2 years, since i discovered 3d print and especially the printmill...and somebody finaly did it, awesome job!
I've made several 3d printed instruments, in the ballpark of 20 or so and 15 of them were string instruments. Seeing this video makes me want to buy a CR-30 as this would allow me to make my instruments much larger.
That's awesome! This enables interesting possibilities for sure!
save up the pennies and buy a Modix instead. you are limited to build orientation on this belt printer. it's not the best orientation for carrying loads. im pleasantly surprised the neck didnt snap in this video. thank god for truss rods.
I've printed 3 banjos on LulzBot so far. Two piece neck (plus fretboard separately), no truss rods but used reinforcing CF or steel tubes inside the neck. Material was CF PLA. Frets were PITA in all 3 cases :D
That's awesome! I'm thinking of combining CF tubes and a truss rod to increase stiffness while being able to adjust the neck's curvature
@@properprinting Wrapping the truss rod in a (round) CF tube is an option but the trade off is that it will take out some of the neck material. That is a big deal in the banjo neck but may work fine in the guitar neck!
You can buy carbon rods to put on the sides of the truss rod to make it sturdier, then if you want to go further from 100% 3D print you could coat it in resin and put in some fiber reinforcement as well. It turns see-through so it just looks like a glossy finish.
Fyi, consider printing the next one in PETG. It'll be less likely to distort in your car and has the best creep resistance of any material I've printed so far. (i.e. better than PLA, PLA+, Nylon, EzNylon, Taulman PCTPE, TPU)
ABS/ASA is even better for the creep and heat tolerance, also usually cleaner to print compared to petg
@@lap87 Good to know, sounds like I should try it soon. ABS/ASA has significant stress-cracking issues so I'll have to test to see if it makes better springs. Mostly though, I've only recently made a heated build chamber so avoided it due to warping.
I made a petg guitar body and found that it was much too flexible to allow for tuning stability. A full neck out of such flexible material would be tough to stabilize, imo.
Omg I literally thought he cut that beautiful guitar I was so shocked and then so so relieved that he didn't, this was a great video, first time seeing your content and it's great
I went through several stages of grief. A five piece laminated through neck. He couldn’t. So I knew it wasn’t real (denial), but he just kept it up for so long I started to wonder. I was angry. I then thought maybe it wasn’t a good guitar after all, so I accepted it. Not quite enough time for all 5 stages, but I was glad.
Well that was unexpectedly awesome! Much smoother than the average project LOL ... it has gotta be PURPLE PURPLE PURPLE!
This one went better than I expected, especially considering that I haven't had a successful print with that extruder xD
@@properprinting Amaaazing 🤩 I've just ordered the new merch too.
@@michaelcutler7481 Nice, thanks!
How how how does he not have even over 100,000 subs. Let alone 500,000. His commitment and brilliance deserves it.
That's the next thing I'm looking for in a 3d printer, a belt system that lets you print long things. It's bound to become popular soon with many making them.
Suddenly watching things like this it makes me realize that's the only things that matters is learning how to play and don't care at all about the brand, the woods or whatever the guitar is made of. If its works and you can play on in, that's all what u need. The rest is jst the cover of the book
I think a purple body, and then playing under a black light would be psychedelic! Awesome job getting something like this made.
I think so too! Thanks :D
Purple and green go very well together.
Depeding on how you do the neck, you could forgo the whole adjustable truss rod and use a graphite rod instead. Vigier does that on their guitars. String action adjustments are made on the bridge and by changing the zero fret. As per the frets, you could've done a heated arbor press, so the fret melts the plastic as it goes it. No need to print the slots.
Thanks for the info! Interesting to make the string action adjustment on the frets itself! A heated press makes things more complicated. Printing the slots improves accuracy and heated frets don't stay in place as well as the press fitted do in my experience.
My company uses dual graphene impregnated carbon fiber rods and a truss rod. The rods ensures the neck is always trying to go back to flat position but still allow just enough bend to adjust the neck if needed. I considered not using a truss rod at all but we still do for a couple of reasons. Great idea though. That would help tremendously.
Some of that rattle could be because break angle is a bit too low. I noticed that you printed the nut with the string slots printed in. You might get better performance from a blank with hand cut slots and add a string tree.
Yes, very true! Because the nut is a 7 minute print I think it should be possible to do the tweaking in CAD. To increase the break angle I can also make the head more angled or even twist it a bit at the higher strings. I like to make use of the capabilities 3D printing offers. Thanks for your suggestions!
I have 3D printed a ukulele neck before, using pla you will get plastic creep while your neck is under tension. Overtime with the strings tightened your neck will start to warp significantly. I would recommend using a different plastic.
PLA definitely is not the best material. Beyond creep, imagine placing this in a car on a hot summer day xD This was just the easiest way to see if it actually works in the first place ;)
I would print the neck and the fingerboard separately, using ABS, and then use acetone to weld them together after inserting the truss rod. You'll get better quality printing that way.
Supervet gast! Especially your self-designed 3D print head, but all the rest is incredibly on point too, including your presentation and camerawork/editing. Big fan here!
Awesome!! Thanks man!
I love it!!! Good work as always! Awesome video man
I love when the circle of your favorite creators closes :D
Purple all the way. Make it obnoxious! Silk purple would give it extra bling points
Interesting project, great proof of concept too.
I do believe that you'll need both the truss rod and carbon fibre reinforcing rods in the neck for longer term stability.
I fear that the neck will end up looking like a banana and no amount of truss rod adjustment will fix it.
As to how to do it - maybe take a page from Leo Fender - have 3 trenches programmed in on the back side of the neck.
Insert the various rods and then cover them over with "skunk stripes" of material that are glued in.
Another option is truss rod from the back, CF rods come in from the sides.
Omg. Epic. First 3DP video i have watched with its own jamming session built in.
Awesome job! Might be worth it to print the neck and the fretboard separate and then add the truss rod (maybe some reinforcing carbon fiber rods too). Also might make sense to just melt the frets in like you did with the threaded inserts. Really awesome though and love the color!
Awesome! I would not have guessed that this was possible. Good Job! Thanks for the fun video.
Me neither, thanks!
If you want more stiffness and tuning stability, as others have suggested, print the fret board and neck separately. Not only will this allow you to fit the truss rod correctly, but, you could also fit two carbon fibre rods, one running down each side of the truss rod. That would likely make it more stable than a standard maple neck without reinforcement. You could also improve the flatness more easily by using levelling files and/or levelling beams before fitting the frets to correct any print inaccuracies.
I would also print the neck as a single piece with no slots. instead of pressing the frets in, just do it like you do for threaded inserts, maybe using some implement to heat the arbor press and the fret.
You might be able to improve the issues with flexibility by using some carbon fiber rods either side of the truss rod channel which you could insert the same way as the truss rod. this would add more rigidity and mean that the truss rod isn't doing all the work. It might also be worth finding a way to add more support to the headstock, maybe aluminium plates on each face of the headstock would add some extra strength to help with tuning stability. A volute would also be a good idea! It's very impressive that a 3D printed guitar neck is even possible at all! I look forward to seeing more.
The drive to your studio reminded me of a place I lived in Breukelen. Amazing neck!
Awesome stuff! Cool project and I also love the extruder. :)
This surprised the heck out of me! I thought for sure that the tension of the strings would break it. And I was really surprised by how good it sounds! Awesome work man! New sub here 😎
Granted I’m only 9:16 in however I would like to add that the function of the truss rod isn’t a simple neck straightening device it’s designed to offset the string tension on the neck so when the strings pull it into a bow you tighten truss rod to straighten the neck out that’s the primary function otherwise if it was only a matter of keeping it straight or stiff we would all just put a 3 inch titanium bar down the middle or a carbon fiber I beam I’m calling it a day with no need for adjustment. yes before everybody chimes in that there ARE guitars like that and I know about the 52 no caster custom shop that the neck is so big it doesn’t need a truss rod just throwing my two cents in great content, excellent idea and really fun to watch
Thanks for your input! Maybe I've explained it incorrectly, but I haven't said that it's used to straighten the neck. Only to adjust its curvature. So yeah, you're right and I think we're on the same page ;)
DUUUUDEEEE. that jumpscare 0:18 jeezz
nice build. lack of any tuning stability was expected :)
also I've never seen belt printer before. cool
Not sure it can help but raising the printing plate with the knobs gave me only troubles and I suppose it worsen also the bending effect. I would fully lower the bed and regulate the y axes offset by the firmware using the baby steps and the 100 Nm included metal blade. The procedure is described by NAK3d channel (you need to regate lower than the result you find due it is 45 degree angled) For the belt tension, I've never touched it but there are some regulation points in the front roller you can play with.
I underestimated the process and I'd definitely take a look into his procedure. Thanks for the info!
hmm, I would suggest something other than PLA personally. it's a very brittle, very sturdy material, but at the same time prone to bending and warping under long durations of stress (think old glass panes). PET is just a little more solid, heavier, and has some actual spring to it. In both cases you'll want to print it thicker, though. something like putting little holes inside the neck, along its length, or using isogrids on the inside. when in doubt, rib it. as well, if you must have structural infill, make sure it's gyroid and at least 2 paths thick. combine all of those, and even some flexible filaments become quite rigid.
if you wanted an absolutely straight neck, you might have better luck printing by left and right halves, then using pins or bolts to connect the halves. if your printer is inducing a warp, printing two halves, one flipped, should give you two parts that have opposing and roughly equal internal stresses. it'll also make it easier to get that bar in.
Thanks for your suggestion! I just started with PLA to see if this would actually be possible. (the old glass panes might be a myth ;)) Creep is definitely a problem and for the next iteration I would do it differently, at least out of a different material. I think that this printer should be able to print straight and I want to keep post processing to a minimum. I think that a few tweaks and a different material would already get far :D
@@properprinting ah, I see, well, not sure on glass any more, but PLA DOES warp slowly due to pressure. PET is a lot harder to print though. it has less natural warp, so that's a definite plus for you, but actually getting solid walls without boogers and gaps can be a pain. I've experienced that much. when it comes to minimizing post processing, definitely look to m5 bolts, then. the process of bolting things together is far faster and less of a pain, even if it does require external hardware. On the other hand, unlike glue, epoxy, or so on, bolts are reusable and standard, so anyone who makes the design again (including you) will always have access to the parts, or if you go to m8 size, you could reasonably print the bolts too!
Good luck printing PET on the CR-30, I fucked up my bed just trying to get it to stick. I ended up moving to the Ideaformer ir3 v1 and haven't had a problem with it now.
I love your channel. The content is out of the main stream and you think like I do. You're not afraid to try something even though it's not been tried before. Very cool!!
Amazing build, great use of a belt printer for sure! Glad it can shred!
Great video! If you have problem with gears you could cast them (make silicone mold) from some kind of urethane or other resin like plastic. They make them almost indestructible these days.
Thanks for your suggestion! At this moment, the PMMA-like resin works perfect. Always good to know that there are other options!
Could you embed the fret wire using heat the same way you embedded the nuts in 9:20?
I tried with that test block and failed. The heated fret pushes the material aside and doesn't stay in place. I had the best result with this fret press caul at room temperature
Great film. Super creative and cool build. Never thought it would work. Mahalo for sharing! : )
I was shocked in awe seeing you sawing through the good guitar neck! :-D
My heart skipped a beat
I'm excited to see the next project
And I think a Telecaster Epoxy Resin Body with this kind of 3D printed Neck would be AWESOME too...
There's nothing quite like checking your printers in the morning and finding everything went well.
The perfectly timed jump cuts during accidental discovery have me rolling.
That's a cool freecad project. I've been wanting to print an instrument. Looks like a great place to start.
Purple
I really like this plugin! Also a lot of information on their site marzguitars.com/
This is so cool build! At the moment you said “I want that it can be noticeable from distance “ you already should be considering LED or other type of lighting in it.
That'd look dope on stage too!
@@properprinting do you play on stage? We must see that!
@@Trotils No, I played on some jam sessions, but I'm more of a studio player. I certainly want to make music again, hopefully this sparks it up a bit!
use the three of them to make the body! you can make it look amazing!! Very cool video. Nice job! (here in Mars we can hear your hammering, but awesome job!!)
Fun project. I designed and 3d printed a guitar for my sister in law. It was a lot of fun
I think PLA with the u channel carbon fiber reinforcement rod or two rods with a dual action truss rod would be enough stiffness. Definitely suggest making the neck a fret board separately. You can as someone else said use inserts and screws to connect the parts, the acetone or epoxy as well.
There are ways to do stainless steel fretboard with frets, if you want to go mental.
This is brilliant! And a surprisingly warm clean tone!
Absoluut goud. Love that you're keeping the failures in there too!
To get the cr30 to print straight, adjust the belt tensioners, so the belt doesn't move ever so slight side to side.
Thanks for the suggestion! It bent into the vertical direction so I think I have to adjust the height of the platform
Superb! I ony intended to take a quick look at this video, but your personality got me hooked to the end. Subscribed.
Awesome, thanks for the sub!
This guy is brave! Not even sure if it would support the pressure but decided to use 11s anyway :)
You should 3D print an entire guitar, body aswell, I think that would be really cool.
oohhh purple body.
That was so cool. Just awesome.
Translucent purple for the base with RGB LEDs so that the colour changes as you play
I’m impressed & it’s gotten better than a Gibson neck
Purple fluorescent semi-transparent like the neck to make a classic Joker themed guitar. (Maybe also do a pick guard and/or knobs in yellow)
I was talking about this color combination with my brother and it reminded me of something. Until he mentioned the Joker, that was it!
The man with the best hair in the business! Nice work, Jon!
Stumbled upon you after searching for 3D printed frets. I was wondering about NOT printing a guitar neck, but printing fretboard sections with true temperament frets (curvy) for nylon guitar built in. The material would just need to be abrasive resistant, but nylon strings are not that abrasive. The fretboard sections would be glued onto a wooden classical neck that is lacking a fretboard, which is what I happen to have. Curious if you have any thoughts on this project... Cheers!
I’d print the neck bowing away from the fingerboard, that way when the strings are brought up to tension they will bend the neck straight. You wouldn’t need to put so much stress on the truss rod that way.
With color changing lights, dial a different color, or, a shaped LCD screen, touchscreen conductive 3M nonscratching self healing self cleaning antibacterial pick guard.
Actually, this formula of plastic can make a self cleaning self healing nonscratchable entire guitar beyond the steinberger for durability.
There are alot of interesting formulas for plastics, patent studies can be like turn key walk through to use for affordable R&D.
Truly epic! My vote is for purple on the body, get that G1 Transformers Constructicon look!
Cool. I don't know if this would work or not but after seeing this I'd try printing the neck out with no fret board. Have 3 slots 1 for the Truss Rod and 2 for Carbon Fiber
rods to keep the neck straight. People do that all the time on wooden necks these days. Then print out a fret board and epoxy it on.
It could be used as a training guitar, inserting LED in the finger board(neck) as guide. Like the music app, simply guitar.
They already make those, Fretlight guitars. I can't say I've ever understood the use-case for them as student guitars. I think they'd make more sense as teacher guitars. That way the neck can be seen by the student...
I thought is was a joke when you "modeled" the guitar neck only to realize that its really that easy and there is a plugin for it WOW!
My mind was blown once I figured that out!
I am trying one with my Prusa, a 100% 3d printed guiitar, and.. hopefully.... HIGH END ONE with top notch specs
That'd be awesome! I also have the idea to make a fully 3D printed guitar and I think that this brings some interesting possibilities!
@@properprinting I'll update you after the completition
@@mariocappful Awesome!
Do you think it would print straighter by printing with the fret-board about co-planar to the bed, with some stand-off to the track using a support structures to attach it to the treadmill?
I'm curious to see how this neck is doing a couple months down the road. PLA will deform under tension and compression over time, how will that affect this print in a month or two?
I'm curious too! I had creep issues before and I think that I eventually have to print it out of another material like PETG or ABS. I'll keep the strings under tension and see what it does over time!
Use thicker strings, for a forward neck bend, and thinner strings for the neck to bend more backwards.
I only like them thick xD
Very cool! I've been looking for a good project for the CR-30, and also need a new guitar, so thanks for the spark!
That's awesome! Stay tuned for other interesting prints for this printer!
@@properprinting Can't wait!
So far all I see is nonsense being printed on these.
@@dangerous8333 I like to print functional things. Whether it's a belt or resin printer ;)
You, my good man, are a genius in our time
WOW, Jon. Looks great and sounds good too, you're a man of many talents. Well done!!! great content as usual.
👏
Thanks for the video!. You are a good man. I apreciate your charisma and the time you take to answer the comments and make those entretaining videos. I only subscribe to people that are really special. I really enjoy your hapinness when the project goes well. Have a good day! greetings from the Patagonia, Argentina!
Thanks Enzo for this awesome comment! I wish you a good day as well!
I saw one of those belt printers in a shop and I was wondering how it worked. That thing is incredible!
But did you use simple PLA or actual true "Tone PLA" ?
How do you fund the "invisibolt" construction on the B.C. Rich?
3D print a whole Guitar and put places for RGB and LCD screens., and make the whole thing reactive and made with glow in the dark filament even maybe. add a Pallette 2 to the CR-30 and do it in multi color/material.
Look at you putting on your glasses like a mad scientist
I was wondering if printing the neck would work! I printed 3 guitar bodies now (grey, blue and white) but I don't have a belt printer so the neck would have to be in pieces which might make it a bit too weak...?? I still can't play so it would be cool for display.
With the translucent green neck I vote for an orange body and purple knobs.
The reason its going out of tune is probably because of the nut. nuts have to have a peak around 80% of the way towards the bridge of the guitar and additionally tusque nuts are specifically engineered plastic that doesnt allow for strings to slip. Ive tried PLA and 304 steel before and they both dont work as well.
I 3d-printed a 7 string guitar body too, next time you could put 2 carbon fiber rods for extra-stiffness to avoid ''creep''. :). Fantastic project aniway
I used carbon fiber in my printed body and it didn't help. However, I didn't use adhesive along the mating surface of the plastic and cf, so that possibly made it less effective.
I'm wondering if a longer truss rod, one that goes beyond the fastening to the body, will help mitigating creep
That's awesome! and you can really shred!
The vertical conveyor belt is blowing my mind
Gaaf project! Ik ben zelf al een tijdje hardware aan het 3d printen voor mijn strat, maar nooit gedacht aan een heel neck XD
Just got mine a week ago. Love it. Took me a long time to calibrate it, but print petg on it, all day long. It's amazing the advantages of this printer beyond the obvious. You can print a tube without supports and I find many places I don't need supports because of the 45 degree slice. Fantastic.
I'm just curious, what do you print with it?
My philosophy as a metal fabricator and woodworker is anything that size I'm just going to make out of wood or metal. The time and plastic needed isn't worth it to me. Still cool, I just don't see any use for it unless printing swords or other cosplay kind of stuff I guess. I know it can be set up as a production machine that runs autonomously but I can do that on anything with a glass bed.
Tell me you are a hollander without telling me you are a hollander.
Great video dude!
This would be a perfect use case for Rainbow Filament!
Gray for the body color says I. Inserting a carbon fiber rod in there somehow may make it sufficiently stiff, but idk how you'd do that aside from printing out a new one.
Cool!, I think PETG and more infill to get less flex and more durable print
PETG in my experience is more flexible than PLA. I hope I can get ASA of ABS printed on the CR-30
How about a couple round channels down the length on either side, drive some cf rod in each one and that should bring increased stiffness and not change the tactile feel of the neck.
I always hear people talk about "resting bitch face", but I love how this guy has "resting concerned face". Like, he's just constantly skeptical of the world around him.
Never could understand why they don't make guitars out of polymers.
Makes a ton of sense