5:08 The Z banding could be caused by the crosshatch infill. It isn't a problem with the Z-axis, but rather changes in flow rate, which cause this pattern.
I enjoyed your guitar build; pretty involved with a considerable number of parts! Most “3D Printed Guitars” are really 3D printed guitar bodies. This was an ambitious approach to 3D printing the neck with the necessary reinforcement. I originally bought my 1st 3D printer 7 years ago to print 3D components for my cigar box guitars. I have recently experimented with 3D printed necks for my 2-string Chugger cigar box guitars. With a single carbon fiber rod the 2-piece neck is very stable, however, thermal expansion of the plastic (PLA, PETG, and PLA-CF) causes the tuning to go sharp after playing for a while as your hand heats up the neck. It’s not a problem if you are playing by yourself, but is problematic when playing with others. As a result I will stick to printing the other components like the flexible fretboards that I attach to wood necks with double stick tape. They work great and can easily be replaced if you wear them out. As you have discovered, fretting is a lot of work to do right. I have other ways I would rather spend my guitar building time. I hope you enjoy your guitar; it looks pretty cool!
If you do, I would not reccomend printing the neck and fretboard, the lack of any radius to the fretboard is not a good thing, it makes playing bar chords very uncomfortable and string bends are difficult as well, and also the "No Flex Neck" is not a good thing as you do in fact need a little flex in a guitar neck to give a little relief against fret buzz, the relief is adjusted by means of a 2-way truss rod set into the neck.
After some thinking. Some design decisions shows that this is probably still a bit of a toy, not a fully functional guitar. Ordinary fret as a bridge does not allow to fine tune the scale for each string. There is no truss rod (but you can still use wooden neck so at least this is nice). The reason you got curved frets is that this is more common - most of the acoustic and electric guitars use curved neck profile. It's more comfortable to play - especially for solos. Also single pickup with only volume knob is pretty minimalistic for an electric guitar. I also thing that they could consider adding 3d printed tuners - i these are working in several other projects (including mine) I see no reason not to use it here - at least as an optional feature.
@@AntonioRequena Thanks. No plans for baritone ukulele, however my hex bass ukulele (headless) is in final stage. I hope it will be released by the end of the year.
hi Micheal, i love all your series of videos so far and at 68years old who learns as a visual learner only got into 3d printing at Xmas 2023 and your channel is the easiest to follow as you don't speed away you must be a great teacher at school you have helped me so much. I have a question do you have any advice on how to get a single jpg photo down to make a 3d model EG a person's face to a 3d printed bust thank you keep up the great work
Yeah, really glad to see that Michael brought up that video. It's really important and we've been pretty lax in the 3D printing community regarding how we handle raw filament and the fumes and micro particles during printing.
I don't see a truss rod in the neck. The neck is going to bend due to string tension. Without a truss rod, the strings will buzz on the frets. You could set it up with real high action and use it for a lap steel.
With the 2020 aluminium in the middle it might not need a truss rod. Sure its not adjustable and will need more care during setup. Burls Art made an all aluminium guitar including the kneck and that didnt have a truss rod either, so while not ideal it should work fine.
Other than potentially the feel of it, what's wrong with a plastic neck? It's not like it's completely plastic either, with the aluminum extrusion down the middle of it EDIT: He did also say you can use a pre-made wooden neck if you want to
I think the saddle is offset, like an acoustic, it would have been nice if it had a 3D printed bridge in ABS with adjustable saddles, even if it was the basic Tele type with the non compensated barrel saddles.
I've found PLA is great for printing stringed instruments; the tone from PLA is really good, Other materials don't sound a s good. Mind you, I'm talking pure PLA, I've yet to try PLA+ or any of the other formulations, which may or may not sound as good. Every Ukulele I've made out of PLA sounds very nice, has better tone and resonance than a commercially made Makala Waterman, which is a plastic ukulele; and is on par with some of my nicer Wood ukes. I need to reprint one of them, as the top just recently cracked on me, it's lasted me close to a decade, and saw multiple neck revisions until I got it sorted with a trussed design that was durable and kept the neck straight and the instrument in tune.
Glad you mentioned the nathan builds robot video about the carbon fiber filaments embedding in your hands when handling, the cf reinforcement sound like a good idea for this project but a definite no after that video
One aspect that has had me hold off on the Prusacaster is that the design is so specific to the components and I'd see comments about people getting slightly different components in their kits. There are also folks making remixes for different hardware sets that may or may not be easy to get. Essentially, I didn't want to pay to import the kit from Europe just to have it not work with the default printed parts and have to either rework it myself (I'm still a CAD novice) or hope that someone else did it already. You could also run into clarity problems -- similar to what you mentioned -- in regard to what you needed. Although, part of that may be because I'm not as musically inclined and don't necessarily understand all of the lingo or just have the intuition.
i love paying double the tax/comission/importing fees to whatever i buy! just because this, that 70 euro kit becomes like, 100-110 euro for me instead of building prusacaster (which i really wanted to) i went out looking for second hand stuff, and lord behold, an ibanez grg121ex for 140 usd (this might be a bit expensive, but i live in turkey and its half the price of retail)
i'm not sure if its related to your problem, but i noticed in orca slicer 2.1.1, when you use independent support layer height on supports, it affects other prints around it like z-banding (in my case)
@15:56 As a bass player, it would be interesting to see how you would play this bass finger style with no place to rest your thumb 🤔 ..btw; how's the Sovol SV08 tool changer coming along?
There are a few design elements that could have used more input from experienced guitar builders, or at least a more research into general guitar specs. It works as a proof of concept, but it needs a lot more R&D if you want committed players to take it seriously.
um... no intonation adjustment? so you tune and play out of tune the further up the neck you fret? electric banjo is what i see and i absolutely would not buy these files for the lack of intonation. fun project maybe, but what's the point if it is perpetually out of tune?
Yeah that's a pretty big oversight... Think there was probably too much of a focus on 3D printing as many components as possible where a standard guitar bridge would have fixed that issue
Can imagine going to play Purple Haze and the neck snapping on the 2nd chord, 5 bars later "that looks familiar!" there's all the parts I printed all last week, lying on the floor, excuse me while I pick these up.
Are you playing slide because the action is sky high? I don't like the body shape in any way , it looks like a childs toy! and the lack of any radius on the fretboard is not good for playing bar chords or bends either, there are other, more ergonomic body designs available online, although I am not a fan of the Prusacaster, I think its because it is a direct copy of someone else's design, but hey, you could call that "authentic" as guitar manufacturers have traditionally ripped each others designs off LOL The authentic pun was intended although the only people that will get it are people who are contemporary with the guitar world!
@@redkurnnot sure I completely agree, but for the most part yes. One of the things that separates an Ibanez Wizard neck from a Fender is the shape of the neck itself. Which on an Ibanez is a touch wider but much slimmer as well.
@@redkurn Ibanez necks have about 16" radius. It's certainly flatter than what Fender offers, but nowhere near as flat as the flat radius used in classical guitars.
@@stevekay6895 it's not though is it... Acoustics are intended to be played without an amp. An electric guitar IS designed to play though an amp and if you're playing though a cheap amp it's gonna sound shite. Even a decent guitar through that amp is gonna sound like crap on the video especially if it's not mic'd up
This can hardly be called a guitar, rather a guitar like toy. Cannot be intonated properly because of the fixed bridge. Shape of the neck is uncomfortable in the back. Totally flat fretboard is uncommon in electric guitars. Won't stay in tune because of the flex and the tendency of 3d printing material to creep under constant tension. Don't waste your money on this, instead buy a real guitar kit if you like to build one.
@@tasmaniakguitars Well, yes and no. Definitely the design is flawed but 3d printing plastic is not ideal for parts under constant tension. Many of us don't realize how much the tension of the strings is in a guitar. It's several tens of kilos. You don't want a material especially in the neck body joint which flexes or creeps. You can watch Mark Gutierrez video (3D Printed Guitar with Impossible Geometry - QIDI Q1 Pro) of his latest 3d printed guitar build and his reply to my comment with similar concern. It can be done with reinforcements but still the longevity of the design is unknown. Leave a 3d printed PLA guitar in your car in a hot summer day, you know what will happen. 3d printing plastic in general is inferior material for building a guitar. Maybe some high-end plastics like PEEK could be used but they are so expensive that it doesn't make any sense.
@@hannuhanhi183 so I've actually got to bed to differ on this one. To be clear, 3D printed guitars is actually something I tend to know quite a bit about! While what you're saying is mostly true, when taken into account during the design stage they should all be mitigated...hopefully. While it's true that we don't really know how they will last over extended period of times, my oldest printed guitar is 2 years old now and since initial setup has required no adjustments to the neck relief or action height. While I have printed a handful of one piece necks with success, I typically don't use them due to the post processing time required. Mark and I discussed this quite a bit while he was designing that guitar and we've also spoken at length about guitar design in general on a few episodes of a podcast that he co-hosts along with some other luthiers. In regards to printing in PLA and a hot car. I've actually tested this and the results were surprising. The two guitars were both made in PLA. Both we the Dean ML body shape. One was a single piece prints the other was a camouflage colour where each colour was actually a seperate piece and they were all glued together. The temperature in the car peaked at 71C (thank you Australia) the multi piece print had zero issues and no flex or warping for obvious reasons. The single piece.. yep, exactly as you would suspect! Lol. However, due to weight, I tend to use ABS for the body. I then add a PLA veneer with my designs/patterns over the top. I'm absolutely happy to chat about this further, if you're prepared to have an open mind! If you like, do a quick search on Cults3D for Tasmaniak, you'll find a handful of my bodies available there.
@@tasmaniakguitars The idea of my first post was to bring up the issue with 3d printing materials which you must somehow address to make the print rigid enough. Yes, definitely I have an open mind. I wouldn't have printed a guitar body if I was fixated to wood. It was an interesting experiment ending up being too heavy (gyroid infill filled with polyester resin). There was also a lot of post processing, and the end result is still not that great either. It is much less work and in general easier to work with wood. Taking the material in account and the time to post process it makes 3d printing in my opinion "inferior" compared to wood. Maybe I return to this subject someday. What I have in mind is to fill the center part from neck pocket to the strap button area with polyester resin and the "wings" just 3d printed. It would make the body much lighter. Cheers from another side of the globe, Finland. 😃
Looking at how this instrument is laid out and designed gives a clear indication whoever did this has no experience with instrument design. It has unnecessary complication written all over the place. Complication done by someone trying to impress itself with its own intellect.
"Using my fancy technology,
I can make an exact copy of this guitar."
5:08 The Z banding could be caused by the crosshatch infill. It isn't a problem with the Z-axis, but rather changes in flow rate, which cause this pattern.
Nice, this just might be my way to adding a bass to my collection!
Instead of ditching th cf body you could put a pritective finish on it. This will prevent the cf from flaking off and make a nice look as well.
Wonderful print. Happy to follow you from Senegal. I love your job, particularly the calibration tools.
My wife is a musician, I'm really considering assembling one of these for her as gift. Thanks for sharing!
You look so serious in that thumbnail!
That is really cool! I've never owned a guitar, but this just might change that. Thanks for sharing.
That's fantastic! I think I'll check out the bass version.
I enjoyed your guitar build; pretty involved with a considerable number of parts! Most “3D Printed Guitars” are really 3D printed guitar bodies. This was an ambitious approach to 3D printing the neck with the necessary reinforcement.
I originally bought my 1st 3D printer 7 years ago to print 3D components for my cigar box guitars. I have recently experimented with 3D printed necks for my 2-string Chugger cigar box guitars. With a single carbon fiber rod the 2-piece neck is very stable, however, thermal expansion of the plastic (PLA, PETG, and PLA-CF) causes the tuning to go sharp after playing for a while as your hand heats up the neck. It’s not a problem if you are playing by yourself, but is problematic when playing with others. As a result I will stick to printing the other components like the flexible fretboards that I attach to wood necks with double stick tape. They work great and can easily be replaced if you wear them out. As you have discovered, fretting is a lot of work to do right. I have other ways I would rather spend my guitar building time.
I hope you enjoy your guitar; it looks pretty cool!
Super early to this one!
Love the project, now I know what to make for my friends birthday.
If you do, I would not reccomend printing the neck and fretboard, the lack of any radius to the fretboard is not a good thing, it makes playing bar chords very uncomfortable and string bends are difficult as well, and also the "No Flex Neck" is not a good thing as you do in fact need a little flex in a guitar neck to give a little relief against fret buzz, the relief is adjusted by means of a 2-way truss rod set into the neck.
Hay, can you do another video about the esp 01s l think it might be outdated, it's been 4 years thanks!
Waiting for next episode with tool changer on Sovol SV08, I am really curious how it will work. When there will be next part?
I think like me, he is waiting on parts to arrive.
Missed opportunity to cover the TTRacing logo with some wailing distortion.... 👍
After some thinking. Some design decisions shows that this is probably still a bit of a toy, not a fully functional guitar. Ordinary fret as a bridge does not allow to fine tune the scale for each string. There is no truss rod (but you can still use wooden neck so at least this is nice). The reason you got curved frets is that this is more common - most of the acoustic and electric guitars use curved neck profile. It's more comfortable to play - especially for solos. Also single pickup with only volume knob is pretty minimalistic for an electric guitar. I also thing that they could consider adding 3d printed tuners - i these are working in several other projects (including mine) I see no reason not to use it here - at least as an optional feature.
Love your ukeleles man. Got any plans to make a baritone uke?
@@AntonioRequena Thanks. No plans for baritone ukulele, however my hex bass ukulele (headless) is in final stage. I hope it will be released by the end of the year.
@@TomekUoo Awesome!
hi Micheal, i love all your series of videos so far and at 68years old who learns as a visual learner only got into 3d printing at Xmas 2023 and your channel is the easiest to follow as you don't speed away you must be a great teacher at school you have helped me so much. I have a question do you have any advice on how to get a single jpg photo down to make a 3d model EG a person's face to a 3d printed bust thank you keep up the great work
You wouldn't download tonewood
Most underrated comment
Don't copy that floppy! 🎶
Tonewood is becoming an old joke.
@@VolkanTaninmis it's funny how much copium people will chug to justify having spent needless money on something that doesn't do anything :D
Tonewood is absolute bullshit
Yeah, Nathan knows his stuff!
Yeah, really glad to see that Michael brought up that video. It's really important and we've been pretty lax in the 3D printing community regarding how we handle raw filament and the fumes and micro particles during printing.
I don't see a truss rod in the neck. The neck is going to bend due to string tension. Without a truss rod, the strings will buzz on the frets. You could set it up with real high action and use it for a lap steel.
With the 2020 aluminium in the middle it might not need a truss rod. Sure its not adjustable and will need more care during setup. Burls Art made an all aluminium guitar including the kneck and that didnt have a truss rod either, so while not ideal it should work fine.
Printing is the easy part. Playing on it (if you have no clue) is a major step...
The neck is a feature, it's a whammy neck.
I really think 3D printed guitar bodies is an exceptional use of 3D printing but I'm not keen on making a plastic neck. Maybe a lap steel, though!
Other than potentially the feel of it, what's wrong with a plastic neck? It's not like it's completely plastic either, with the aluminum extrusion down the middle of it
EDIT: He did also say you can use a pre-made wooden neck if you want to
I don't see anyway of setting the intonation of each string. The fret wire bridge has no adjustment.
I think the saddle is offset, like an acoustic, it would have been nice if it had a 3D printed bridge in ABS with adjustable saddles, even if it was the basic Tele type with the non compensated barrel saddles.
I've found PLA is great for printing stringed instruments; the tone from PLA is really good, Other materials don't sound a s good. Mind you, I'm talking pure PLA, I've yet to try PLA+ or any of the other formulations, which may or may not sound as good. Every Ukulele I've made out of PLA sounds very nice, has better tone and resonance than a commercially made Makala Waterman, which is a plastic ukulele; and is on par with some of my nicer Wood ukes. I need to reprint one of them, as the top just recently cracked on me, it's lasted me close to a decade, and saw multiple neck revisions until I got it sorted with a trussed design that was durable and kept the neck straight and the instrument in tune.
Do you have any links to good 3D printable ukuleles?
All I need is a 3d printed shamisen and I’d be happy as can be
There's files for one on printables already
Glad you mentioned the nathan builds robot video about the carbon fiber filaments embedding in your hands when handling, the cf reinforcement sound like a good idea for this project but a definite no after that video
Can you test the Prolocaster on printables ?
One aspect that has had me hold off on the Prusacaster is that the design is so specific to the components and I'd see comments about people getting slightly different components in their kits. There are also folks making remixes for different hardware sets that may or may not be easy to get. Essentially, I didn't want to pay to import the kit from Europe just to have it not work with the default printed parts and have to either rework it myself (I'm still a CAD novice) or hope that someone else did it already. You could also run into clarity problems -- similar to what you mentioned -- in regard to what you needed. Although, part of that may be because I'm not as musically inclined and don't necessarily understand all of the lingo or just have the intuition.
i love paying double the tax/comission/importing fees to whatever i buy!
just because this, that 70 euro kit becomes like, 100-110 euro for me
instead of building prusacaster (which i really wanted to) i went out looking for second hand stuff, and lord behold, an ibanez grg121ex for 140 usd (this might be a bit expensive, but i live in turkey and its half the price of retail)
i'm not sure if its related to your problem, but i noticed in orca slicer 2.1.1, when you use independent support layer height on supports, it affects other prints around it like z-banding (in my case)
what skill dosent this man have anyways whem is the next sv08 toolchanger update
@15:56 As a bass player, it would be interesting to see how you would play this bass finger style with no place to rest your thumb 🤔
..btw; how's the Sovol SV08 tool changer coming along?
Is that your rocker jacket?
Maybe a prusacaster style would be more practical given you use an already made fretboard.
Thanks for your work!
P.S. Where you've got this cool cape?
What size fret wire did you go with?
did you guys use any footpedels?
Well, I have most of the hardware lying around. I know what my next project is.
Feel like a belt printer would have given you a solid neck piece
There are a few design elements that could have used more input from experienced guitar builders, or at least a more research into general guitar specs. It works as a proof of concept, but it needs a lot more R&D if you want committed players to take it seriously.
How many hours to build? And how many kg of filament? Thinking maybe ASA….
The Cults page for it says it needs roughly 1.3kg of filament
Did you end up making the phi-bass?
Toan is in the pla
Fret wire is malleable and can easily be hammered flat
all I can think of is banjo when I see it
Looks awesome if I hold it, but only sounds awesome if you play it.
Kinda want guitar licks at the intro from now on. You spoiled us now you have to live with the consequences!
um... no intonation adjustment? so you tune and play out of tune the further up the neck you fret? electric banjo is what i see and i absolutely would not buy these files for the lack of intonation. fun project maybe, but what's the point if it is perpetually out of tune?
Yeah that's a pretty big oversight... Think there was probably too much of a focus on 3D printing as many components as possible where a standard guitar bridge would have fixed that issue
Can imagine going to play Purple Haze and the neck snapping on the 2nd chord, 5 bars later "that looks familiar!" there's all the parts I printed all last week, lying on the floor, excuse me while I pick these up.
The neck wouldn't snap due to the aluminoum extrusion, the body though..
DUDE figgin smile omg. i like ur stuff but damm ur more stiff then captain marvel
I'm totally tone deaf, but I still feel this guitar sounds horrible.
Yeh. This project finds you a bit ......
Strung Out.
Hope life picks up.
Tone is coming from strings and pickups. Tonewood is becoming an old joke.
When youre ready to try out what a real 3D printed guitar sounds like, let me know!
Ive got quite a few different designs made and ready to go!
Are you playing slide because the action is sky high?
I don't like the body shape in any way , it looks like a childs toy! and the lack of any radius on the fretboard is not good for playing bar chords or bends either, there are other, more ergonomic body designs available online, although I am not a fan of the Prusacaster, I think its because it is a direct copy of someone else's design, but hey, you could call that "authentic" as guitar manufacturers have traditionally ripped each others designs off LOL
The authentic pun was intended although the only people that will get it are people who are contemporary with the guitar world!
I wonder how a flat fretboard plays versus a rounded one 🤔
faster, ibanez vs fender neck.
@@redkurn that doesn't really help..
@@redkurnnot sure I completely agree, but for the most part yes. One of the things that separates an Ibanez Wizard neck from a Fender is the shape of the neck itself. Which on an Ibanez is a touch wider but much slimmer as well.
@@redkurn Ibanez necks have about 16" radius. It's certainly flatter than what Fender offers, but nowhere near as flat as the flat radius used in classical guitars.
Guitar is all about tone for me and this is just NOT it. I just don't see a reason for this to exist. Great video tho.
To be fair it's being played through a tiny practice amp with no mic so it's hard to judge the tone from this video
@@meraki89 no it’s not. That’s like saying you can’t judge the tone of an acoustic because it’s not amplified.
@@stevekay6895 it's not though is it... Acoustics are intended to be played without an amp. An electric guitar IS designed to play though an amp and if you're playing though a cheap amp it's gonna sound shite. Even a decent guitar through that amp is gonna sound like crap on the video especially if it's not mic'd up
@@meraki89 if you think you can’t tell tone from a raw instrument, you have a lot to learn
@@stevekay6895 if you think what we heard in this video is a "raw" tone I have nothing to learn from you.
This can hardly be called a guitar, rather a guitar like toy. Cannot be intonated properly because of the fixed bridge. Shape of the neck is uncomfortable in the back. Totally flat fretboard is uncommon in electric guitars. Won't stay in tune because of the flex and the tendency of 3d printing material to creep under constant tension. Don't waste your money on this, instead buy a real guitar kit if you like to build one.
The issue isnt that it's 3D Printed, but more the fact that the entire design let's it down.
@@tasmaniakguitars Well, yes and no. Definitely the design is flawed but 3d printing plastic is not ideal for parts under constant tension.
Many of us don't realize how much the tension of the strings is in a guitar. It's several tens of kilos. You don't want a material especially in the neck body joint which flexes or creeps.
You can watch Mark Gutierrez video (3D Printed Guitar with Impossible Geometry - QIDI Q1 Pro) of his latest 3d printed guitar build and his reply to my comment with similar concern. It can be done with reinforcements but still the longevity of the design is unknown.
Leave a 3d printed PLA guitar in your car in a hot summer day, you know what will happen.
3d printing plastic in general is inferior material for building a guitar. Maybe some high-end plastics like PEEK could be used but they are so expensive that it doesn't make any sense.
@@hannuhanhi183 so I've actually got to bed to differ on this one. To be clear, 3D printed guitars is actually something I tend to know quite a bit about! While what you're saying is mostly true, when taken into account during the design stage they should all be mitigated...hopefully. While it's true that we don't really know how they will last over extended period of times, my oldest printed guitar is 2 years old now and since initial setup has required no adjustments to the neck relief or action height. While I have printed a handful of one piece necks with success, I typically don't use them due to the post processing time required.
Mark and I discussed this quite a bit while he was designing that guitar and we've also spoken at length about guitar design in general on a few episodes of a podcast that he co-hosts along with some other luthiers.
In regards to printing in PLA and a hot car. I've actually tested this and the results were surprising. The two guitars were both made in PLA. Both we the Dean ML body shape. One was a single piece prints the other was a camouflage colour where each colour was actually a seperate piece and they were all glued together. The temperature in the car peaked at 71C (thank you Australia) the multi piece print had zero issues and no flex or warping for obvious reasons. The single piece.. yep, exactly as you would suspect! Lol. However, due to weight, I tend to use ABS for the body. I then add a PLA veneer with my designs/patterns over the top.
I'm absolutely happy to chat about this further, if you're prepared to have an open mind!
If you like, do a quick search on Cults3D for Tasmaniak, you'll find a handful of my bodies available there.
@@tasmaniakguitars The idea of my first post was to bring up the issue with 3d printing materials which you must somehow address to make the print rigid enough.
Yes, definitely I have an open mind. I wouldn't have printed a guitar body if I was fixated to wood. It was an interesting experiment ending up being too heavy (gyroid infill filled with polyester resin).
There was also a lot of post processing, and the end result is still not that great either. It is much less work and in general easier to work with wood. Taking the material in account and the time to post process it makes 3d printing in my opinion "inferior" compared to wood.
Maybe I return to this subject someday. What I have in mind is to fill the center part from neck pocket to the strap button area with polyester resin and the "wings" just 3d printed. It would make the body much lighter.
Cheers from another side of the globe, Finland.
😃
Looking at how this instrument is laid out and designed gives a clear indication whoever did this has no experience with instrument design. It has unnecessary complication written all over the place. Complication done by someone trying to impress itself with its own intellect.
"And it sounds great" /proceeds to demonstrate it not sounding great. 😆
Considering we're hearing the guitar through a non-mic'd 15w Marshall practice amp any comments on the tone are pretty pointless 😂