I've had to make custom threads in Fusion before. They really need to make this an official feature, it's way more common of a thing to do than they obviously think. Other modeling software allows this without editing config files.
I just create a coil as a new body and use it just to define a helix-path. Then you create a new sketch plane perpendicular to that helix end. Then you can draw a triangle on that sketch and use a sweep of the the triangle along the helix path to make the thread cut. Fully customizable and parametric. You can even make multi-start threads and very odd shaped threads by modifying the triangle sketch into what ever you want, circles, squares, hexagons, ...
For your first design, try chamfering the end of the dowel before trying to jam it into the newly formed threads. This should provide a ramping start-of-cut and may help with the self-alignment
@@MrSivkar right!! if he had cut the entire form of the thread at once at the right shape it whould had worked since the guidethread in the 3d printed part had full shape of the intended thread,cant flush a 3" crap down a 2" drain
What if he started cutting by turning 'the wrong way' on the first jig to cut the dowel to the inner diameter, then once there's a little nub he can thread the correct way to thread through the guide and finish the part.
They didn't have special machines or tools when they made those old woodworking benches. They drew on a spiral on the dowel, sawed a kerf along that line and then used rasps and files to form the threads.
They did have special tools. It’s called a thread box, and it’s almost exactly the same as the first jig he printed, but it uses a fixed blade instead of a router blade. The reason the wood is soaked before cutting the threads is to soften it a little because you are cutting the whole thread at once, which, for big threads, is a chore. It also results in cleaner threads, as mentioned, as a side benefit. This isn’t to say they didn’t do what you said. They absolutely did. It just wasn’t the only method.
@@NitFlickwickyeah lol $1K is a complete clickbait lie of a price for cutting threads in a large diameter dowel, it’s kinda offensive to be honest. Making a simple thread box is pretty basic “old-school” woodworking stuff.
@@NitFlickwick I was going to say exactly that. I have made a few thread boxes. But the reason the wood is soaked is to make it easier for the blade since you are cutting across the grain not with it. Across the grain,if you don't have your blade extremely sharp, will tear the wood more instead of cutting and you won't get a clean thread.
@@ForestCinemaIt's not a lie. If you look up some of the threaders for wood made of metal for that size,some companies do price them close to that price
Yeah God being a wood working carpenter takes on so many crazy new meanings. Explains a lot about freemasonry too. Building stuff seems to be a religious thing for the west and that's smart.
Freemasonry and Jesus are quite opposites. Anyway, Jesus's biological father (or was he?) Joseph was a carpenter, Jesus was a fisherman, but he might have learned a thing or two fron his dad. No word in the bible from Jesus threading wood?
Does that make James@woodbywrigth Jesus? Cause he has hand carved both the external and internal threads in approximately that size. @LittleForrest also has a series on making the tools for cutting threads in wood.
I would say to 3d print a section of the final threaded dowel that you can mount on the front end of the dowel. Then you could use that to get it started through your original jig and then once the bit starts cutting the threads, that's what will pull the dowel along as you twist it. Not all that different from your idea just with the advantage of having to print a shorter section and not needing to reposition the or print a really long thread like you did. But goo perserverance in hammering out the problem.
@@TheSwedishMaker Had the same idea. The benefit is, that the side opposite of the bit is supported, so your dowel doesn't bend upwards. More consistent thread
I guess the only problem with that technique would be the error magnification, because you need a little bit of play between the guide and the cut thread, the helix could get tighter and tighter over time until it binds up in the guide nut. Having the full length of the threads printed as a guide eliminates this problem. I guess it's not a problem for just a few turns, but if you want to make long threaded sections, the errors might become to big.
@@ProtonOne11 I don't think so. if the printed jig and the printed "head" for the dowel have the same geometry (which, if produced by the same CAD-Program with the same parameters, is true), then you only need a constant feed, not going back an forth (because of backlash). Or did you not mean along the axis of the dowel, but along the diameter? I guess with a properly set bit height there shouldn't be a problem. I don't see the helix getting "tighter" because the dowel gets constantly pulled by the thread, not pushed.
That only works if you can cut the whole depth of the threads in one pass. If you are not at full depth the newly cut threads won't fit in the jig or you have to make the the threads in the jig so shallow that it cant support the dowel in the subsequent passes. The method that he ended up with is a direct copy of how you do single point thread cutting on a metal lathe but taking into account that the cutter is in a fixed position so both movements must be done with the dowel. It is a bit more cumbersome to setup but the results will be perfect every time.
Congratulations on passing the Engineering 101! The thread experiment oughta have given you a solid feel for tolerances, and when it comes to mechanical engineering, that's seriously half the battle. Amazingly done! I look forward to seeing what this actually will come out as.
@@TheSwedishMaker i live far away from city and i have dogs barking middle of the night randomly. i completely felt your paint when you were telling them to shut up. i've slept better in city near highway..
You can make custom threads in fusion: 1. Do a sketch of the whole lenght of the thread (remember to account for extra loop after the set distance so you have geometry to the end). You need one like on right and left side of the axis. 2. Then a linear along the axis to be the path for a sweep. 3. Do a sweep from the bottom like to top line along the axis sketch you made. You need to do the revolutions math yourself to get the derised pitch. Input that as the rotation angle. 4. You should now have two surfaces. 5. Extreude a cylider (or hole... whatever) 6. Sketch the geometry of your thread profile as a regular sketch. 7. Select the profile sketch, do a sweep along the axis you sketched earlier. Choose the sweep tool and switch the type to "Path + Guide surface". Select the profile, the axis, and the guide surface, and do a cut operation. It is counter intuitive if you come from other CAD suites. However! It makes 100% sense in the philsophy that F360 operates in. F360 isn't "absolutely" parameteric, in the mathematically way used in other CADs (Like Inventor, Solidworks, NX...). F360 is designed to be more intuitive to basic user, as everything you do in it, is done with objects in space. To experienced professionals used to the precisions and mathematical definitions and references of other CAD suites, this is extremely annoying. HOWEVER! The intended user of F360 is not like that. You can make things in Fusion by just moving objects to their desired locations, and operating with them or on them. Also the principal method is supposed to go: Rough solid sketch -> Detailing and finishing with Surface tools (Probably the easiest and most intuitive surface tools I have ever seen... Then again the bar is VERY low) -> possibly final detailing of meshes with mesh tools if you are desperate. This is actually extremely convinient and easy flow to use - I say this as someone who has used Solidworks for years, had to suffer with NX, and regularly uses Inventor. It is easier to go from something like Blender to Fusion, than NX/Solidworks to Fusion. But once you get used to and accept the principle of working with Fusion, it is extremely quick and easy. I wouldn't use it to make complex load bearing structures with high precision maths and welding details. But I'm easily 2-3 times faster with it to make complex organic geometry than with any other CAD.
You don't need to print the threads past the start since you have the internal threads, you can simply use a short section of the printed threads to start, and then use the internally threaded part as a guide.
Now thats really nice to know! I wasnt aware that you can make your own thread definitions like that. In the past I've made custom threads by guiding a profile along the path of a coil. Create a body (with a triangular section), create a sketch with the custom thread profile you want. Then sweep that profile along one of the triangle edge of the coil.
I had thoughts in this as a professional machinist. The different method you came up with instead has a unique advantage in directly supporting the shaft at any point, such as in the case of creating a thread at a specific area of the shaft rather than at each end. The immediate area before and after the thread can be supported, which would be useful for extra long, heavy, or bent screw shafts. Furthermore it can be adapted to cut mid-shaft splines and keyways, set screw holes, anything. I believe the sleeve can be any size larger than the shaft, as long as the pitch of the thread remains the same. This would allow you to create two larger half nuts that can tightly clamp together with space for some hex screws that could be gently loosened or tightened quickly to slide up or down in position. The inside of the clamp can also be threaded and fit onto and match existing threaded rod, allowing the machine to easily make new, recut, or extend threads with identical timing. The clamping is important here as it would mean doing all this without having to exhaustively turn twist through a bushing to reach the desired starting point, it can simply be dropped in position and locked each time.
As someone playing a bit with wood and 3D printing and trying to get back to 3D moddeling, I can tell you that you perseverance is worthy of respect. I totally understand the frustration of going back and work on new iterations but I'm certainly not as good as you haha, well done!
One of your better videos. I was rooting for you all the way on it and going through the emotions of excitement and disappointment. Well done! Can't wait to see the project
Brilliant solutions! The biggest is the totally custom threads in F360, but the idea and design of the dowel-threading jig is fantastic too. Super-practical and super-easy to create (at least once you figure out the custom threads in F360 😁) Love your videos(!), the cows are a definite plus. “Cows as my muse”, I love it! 😂
@@sheerluckholmes5468bulls don't have udders, unless in very specific genetic mutation cases. they do have nipples but not udders, and their nipples are not easily visible. Source: Work on cow farms repairing milking equipment. Also cow is a species, bull is just the specific name given to male cows, but saying he for a cow is not incorrect.
Your production value has really increased as of late! I really enjoy being able to see more of your personality in your videos, in addition to your creativity and problem solving. Great content! Keep it up!
I'm sorry, but can't you print the thing like in the first iteration of this project but based on the last iteration of internal threads? Just take this box with internal threads, remove half of it and add a hole for the blade? Wouldn't it let you to not print this long external threads thing but just use one little box for the entire length? Maybe even combine both ideas and use this new internal thread support in the front and the currently working external thread thing in the back. So that you get your wooden thread to begin with your solution and then continue by just pushing it like the previous guy did. I don't know if it'll work, but I guess that you might save some printing material without printing this long external thread thing
Great to see your rethinking the problem and coming with a different solution. This is literally thinking from the inside to outside the box (threadwise)
I think the first version will work. It seems like there was an alignment issue. If you print a threaded plug you can use it to align the threads and the bit and also get the right height on the bit
Yep agreed, I think the alignment of the bit needs to be in alignment with the curved projection of the thread which might not be intuitive, and because of how much contact surface there is with the threaded guide, I would be generous on the tolerances / make the internal threads offset outwards a little. Printing a plug and making the cutting jig have a cutaway / section analysis (like having the bottom forwards quadrant of the box cut out) so you can see into the cutter "box" lets you examine how the bit comes into contact with the plug so you can really dial in the cutter position (remembering that you want to cutter to cut on the deeper side to give a tolerance fit with the guide threads).
With a certain steady speed you could also do it, but then you need something to regulate the speed, and the 3D print guidance is just a simple clever idea and probably even more tolerant :) Nice!
Single point thread cutting on a router table. I think that your final solution is a much better version than the first one and it also supports several passes with increased depth of cut which the first one can't really do without sacrificing precision (and I am an engineer, if that is worth anything...)
Great video. The setup, the plan, the cows, the success. Beautiful. Also, first tip to get better at CAD, use a mouse. For doing a thread with any profile you can make a sketch with your profile and cut from a cylinder it in a sweep operation.
I love this video. If engineering is the art of solving problems, that's exactly what you did. Prototype, get feedback, iterate, and just kept going until you got your result. Thank you for sharing
If you had a problem with starting the thread in the first version, you had to make a guide cap at the front that starts the thread, this sleeve with an external thread unnecessarily complicates the project.
Alternative method, 3d print the leading threads and glue it to the end of the dowel, this would allow you to get the feed rate locked in before the bit engages the wood, it would also be better supported with the guide being closer to the cutting tool, once the wood is engaging the threads you are smooth sailing. After you can just snap/cut the 3d print extension off.
This is my first video I've seen from you. Was a fun to look your progress through the complete project. From the first idea till your final success. Great job 🎉 And from first seconds of your video you seemed to be a really sympatic and authentic guy. So you catched me with clicking Abo on your channel😅 Greetings from South Germany
I'll admit the title intrigued me. Then when I learned what the subject was, I lost interest. But what kept me was your problem solving. Good job figuring it out! Excellent solution using the resources at hand.
Nice job. Thanks for the discovery of being able to add new thread forms to Fusion. Definitely going to use that one. Another tip for Fusion360 and 3D printed threads is to use the Press/Pull feature. Use it to offset each side (2 separate features) of the thread profile by a negative value to "cut" away a small amount of material. That way you can really dial in the fit of your two parts.
If you know the pitch of the internal threads is right, scale the item up in the X and Y sizes (leave Z alone) and try again. Can step it up until you've got an idea of what works, then adjust your internal threads in the model to reflect those scalings.
1. I subscribed at 4:13 Your video style was smooth, and you seem like such an interesting guy to follow. 2. Don't be bothered by the cow sounds. I know living near them might be annoying, but hearing them in the video was fine.
@5:17 XML files are configuration files. They are meant to be used to configure the software. They may be in an obscure location due to the software's file tree setup, but they aren't intentionally hidden. Many software even have built in ways to configure them.
Och my god you just solved my issue with threads. I have an inflatable kayak and the valve on it is not compatible with the pump they supply with the kayak - and there are NO available adapters for this type. It has a proprietary thread - the closes was some random piping thread from a UK standard. This - with the fusion hack is what I need to create an adaptor that holds the pump in place! You are a god sent! THANK YOU!
I'm sure my father (master carpenter/joiner) had a really old fashioned wood thread cutter, it's more of knife with an angled blade than a modern style die. I'll see if I can find it and take pics. If you think about it the grain goes length ways so your cutting across the grain, so cutting is better, rather than ripping chunks out and spelching the wood. And yes I do own a 3D printer - joke btw.
I'm going to continue to watch to see if you caught this error, but the view of the CAD model at 5:43 shows the root of the threads (where the tip of the router bit will be cutting) as flat yet you are cutting with a pointed router bit. I'm wondering if you took that into account when setting the router bit height (i.e. not cutting enough wood to allow thread engagement with the fixture).
Using my python script saves the hassle. Look in the Fusion 360 subreddit for my post titled "3D printing threads help" to find it. It gives you a second set of thread definitions for 3D printing generated by applying offsets to the standard definitions based on thread pitch.
You can most definitely make the first design work with using the coil option in fusion and a sketch of the carving bit used on the saw. With that and some clearance you can make custom threads that include the pitch and depth of the drill bit. Also you will be able to control the spacing between the turns for optimal strenght of the wood. Hope this helps or at least gives you new ideas on how to improve the design!
That’s a clever way to design custom threads. My background in solid works 2014 requires that if you want to make threads that will convert to an STL file you have to do model them manually. So you start out with a hole or bar that’s the size you need. Then draw a thread profile at the correct diameter that is then cut into the material following a spiral at the correct pitch. Just like a tap, die or how you cut your threads. Nice work
I haven't messed with Fusion 360 lately, but there should a sweep cut option on there you can draw a helix in the diameter and pitch that you need for any thread size you could imagine. You would have to define the thread profile yourself, but it is doable. It would also give you way more flexibility for getting things to fit since you're not stuck with a predefined thread profile. One of the great things about making is that there are multiple ways to solve something and I love the ingenuity!
There are how-to videos on youtube explaining that process step by step. Seems a bit strange that a youtube creator did not even look for a video on how to do helical cuts in a few minutes, but instead went down into a plugin programming rabbit hole. 😂
Use the outer thread block, the one that the dowel can thread into, to pull the remaining dowel length. 3 prints total from left to right - the outer thread block, a smooth guide, and an inner thread block that mates with the threaded sleave. The threaded sleave is used to cut the first set of threads. The outer thread block is screwed to the dowel and uses the threads themselves to pull the remaining length. Similar to the first design that tried to do it in one print.
Great job! Also, when it's snug (but not too snug) a bit of beeswax can help. I normally would put it on the 3D printed dowel's threads, but in you case I would put some on the threads you're screwing into. OR, you could print a larger receiver.... LMAO! As another "not engineer" that's doing 3D printing, this was very fun to watch!
Once you have the threads started with the last strategy, it should be very easy to get the first jig working with a full depth cut so you can make longer threaded rods.
Before the router bit, cut a thin angled slot with the thread pitch and put a thin sheet metal with a 1/3 half-round notch with a knife edge to catch the surface of the dowel and guide it forward to the router bit at the correct thread pitch. It works with a hand die. I was a non-degreed engineering technician specializing in solving the problems of incompetent engineers at a nuclear power plant.
One issue with unsealed wood is as humidity changes the wood will expand or contract, so using that with another material means your screw interface will get tighter or looser with humidity changes. Looking forward to seeing what you are building.
As another self taught engineer that was also dealing with threads. I found I had to add a bit of a gap between the internal and external threads. I think I did 1mm, maybe .5mm. I made a bottle gravity water thing for some plants. Just filled a 2 liter bottle and run a tube from it to a bunch of pots. Edit: Looks like you got it to work. Congrats! I know the first time I had to make custom threads without any real clue what I was doing blew my mind.
Print shrink is a real problem. Depending on your material, you have some percent you need to compensate for. As an engineer, you have exactly the right process to design and solve a problem!
Excellent work 👏👏👏 on all of it. The designs and different iterations and the thought process to get to the end result and the fusion 360 custom thread size vant wait to see what you make
One issue with accuracy might be due to your clamping direction: sideways against the 2x2 instead of down. Next time, try milling a slot for extruded T-Slot in the top of the 2x2, then use T-Slot clamps to hold the 3D printed jigs against the router table. Similarly, you can enhance the threading jig by adding a small printed ring to the bottom, so it locates in the router lift trim ring.
Nice work, its a nightmare of a thing to do, from memory, I did a similar thing a couple of years ago, but the only difference was that instead of 3d printing a threaded sleeve to go around the dowel, I 3d printed a threaded tip to hot glue to the end of my dowel, this meant I could set my router bit height, using the print, but also, the 3d printed tip would get the timber spinning in the router jig to the correct pitch. Always cool to see other mediums being used with 3d printing as a jig/guide tool
actually this is a great solution. if you make a second box with thread, the rod could go inside when already some thread on it, then fix the box to the fence, so you dont need the fixed plastic thread anymore, therefore you need a short plastic thread for any length of rod.
1) Look at a bolt, see the taper at the lead in for the threads. 2) Your ideal for threads in the block at the D-Bit, was correct, you just didn't have the taper. 3) The plastic threads, at the D-Bit, would then have pulled the dowel through as you first thought. Best wishes from Northern Canada.
@@jeepthangjim but he alluded to his printer paying for itself with this project which suggests that this project was important in some monetary form - so why did he need this print, for what task or sale did he need it that was then worth money?
@@HexnHammerI think it payed for itself because he didn’t have to pay for the thousand dollar tool not that the project us monetary but hey I could be wrong
When it comes to modeling threads you dont necessarily need to use the built in tools. You can draw the profile of the thread, generate a helical sketch then do a swept cut to make the feature.
Great video! I think you could use the first jig if you cut the end in half to a depth of at least your screw pitch; that way the router bit can enter from that new plane in the middle of the dowel
Engineering student here. Putting a peg in a hole can result in interference fitment if the hole is smaller than the peg. In other words, you jam it. If you want the peg to fit in the hole snugly, but not loose, the hole is only a tiny bit bigger. Since reality is never exactly the same as design, we have to have add a clearance. A tiny gap in design between the parts so that they can fit together as intended. How tight or loose it is depends on this clearance. You’ll be able to adjust this in fusion. There are plenty of RUclips videos explaining how to do this for 3D printed parts, but it might require some testing because it may look differently for wood than it would PLA. Also as mentioned by others, you should sharpen the point of the screw to make it self align. It’s my first time on your channel and I like it so far. I’m a big fan of people who jump into projects like this. It’s the best way to learn. Great video
Custom threads in f360? That's the real winner of the video
Yes that deserves a video of its own 😍
I've had to make custom threads in Fusion before. They really need to make this an official feature, it's way more common of a thing to do than they obviously think. Other modeling software allows this without editing config files.
Any reason you couldn’t just do it with a sketch and a revolve?
I tried that too but didnt really get the result I wanted. There's probabaly a way to do it butnI couldnt figure it out
I just create a coil as a new body and use it just to define a helix-path. Then you create a new sketch plane perpendicular to that helix end. Then you can draw a triangle on that sketch and use a sweep of the the triangle along the helix path to make the thread cut. Fully customizable and parametric. You can even make multi-start threads and very odd shaped threads by modifying the triangle sketch into what ever you want, circles, squares, hexagons, ...
For your first design, try chamfering the end of the dowel before trying to jam it into the newly formed threads. This should provide a ramping start-of-cut and may help with the self-alignment
For any bolt type of thing I’d recommend adding a chamfer, it makes everything so much easier!
and of course the cut depth was off .....
@@MrSivkar right!! if he had cut the entire form of the thread at once at the right shape it whould had worked since the guidethread in the 3d printed part had full shape of the intended thread,cant flush a 3" crap down a 2" drain
Came here to say this too.
What if he started cutting by turning 'the wrong way' on the first jig to cut the dowel to the inner diameter, then once there's a little nub he can thread the correct way to thread through the guide and finish the part.
They didn't have special machines or tools when they made those old woodworking benches. They drew on a spiral on the dowel, sawed a kerf along that line and then used rasps and files to form the threads.
Interesting!
They did have special tools. It’s called a thread box, and it’s almost exactly the same as the first jig he printed, but it uses a fixed blade instead of a router blade.
The reason the wood is soaked before cutting the threads is to soften it a little because you are cutting the whole thread at once, which, for big threads, is a chore. It also results in cleaner threads, as mentioned, as a side benefit.
This isn’t to say they didn’t do what you said. They absolutely did. It just wasn’t the only method.
@@NitFlickwickyeah lol $1K is a complete clickbait lie of a price for cutting threads in a large diameter dowel, it’s kinda offensive to be honest. Making a simple thread box is pretty basic “old-school” woodworking stuff.
@@NitFlickwick I was going to say exactly that. I have made a few thread boxes. But the reason the wood is soaked is to make it easier for the blade since you are cutting across the grain not with it. Across the grain,if you don't have your blade extremely sharp, will tear the wood more instead of cutting and you won't get a clean thread.
@@ForestCinemaIt's not a lie. If you look up some of the threaders for wood made of metal for that size,some companies do price them close to that price
"I bet Jesus could do this with hand tools..." What a great line! 😂
😂
Yeah God being a wood working carpenter takes on so many crazy new meanings. Explains a lot about freemasonry too. Building stuff seems to be a religious thing for the west and that's smart.
@@AckzaTV religion is never a smart idea, it might be a necessary crutch for some that live very hard lives but otherwise it is just plain dumb.
Freemasonry and Jesus are quite opposites. Anyway, Jesus's biological father (or was he?) Joseph was a carpenter, Jesus was a fisherman, but he might have learned a thing or two fron his dad. No word in the bible from Jesus threading wood?
Does that make James@woodbywrigth Jesus? Cause he has hand carved both the external and internal threads in approximately that size. @LittleForrest also has a series on making the tools for cutting threads in wood.
I would say to 3d print a section of the final threaded dowel that you can mount on the front end of the dowel. Then you could use that to get it started through your original jig and then once the bit starts cutting the threads, that's what will pull the dowel along as you twist it. Not all that different from your idea just with the advantage of having to print a shorter section and not needing to reposition the or print a really long thread like you did. But goo perserverance in hammering out the problem.
Good idea!!
@@TheSwedishMaker Had the same idea. The benefit is, that the side opposite of the bit is supported, so your dowel doesn't bend upwards. More consistent thread
I guess the only problem with that technique would be the error magnification, because you need a little bit of play between the guide and the cut thread, the helix could get tighter and tighter over time until it binds up in the guide nut. Having the full length of the threads printed as a guide eliminates this problem. I guess it's not a problem for just a few turns, but if you want to make long threaded sections, the errors might become to big.
@@ProtonOne11 I don't think so. if the printed jig and the printed "head" for the dowel have the same geometry (which, if produced by the same CAD-Program with the same parameters, is true), then you only need a constant feed, not going back an forth (because of backlash). Or did you not mean along the axis of the dowel, but along the diameter? I guess with a properly set bit height there shouldn't be a problem. I don't see the helix getting "tighter" because the dowel gets constantly pulled by the thread, not pushed.
That only works if you can cut the whole depth of the threads in one pass. If you are not at full depth the newly cut threads won't fit in the jig or you have to make the the threads in the jig so shallow that it cant support the dowel in the subsequent passes. The method that he ended up with is a direct copy of how you do single point thread cutting on a metal lathe but taking into account that the cutter is in a fixed position so both movements must be done with the dowel. It is a bit more cumbersome to setup but the results will be perfect every time.
Congratulations on passing the Engineering 101! The thread experiment oughta have given you a solid feel for tolerances, and when it comes to mechanical engineering, that's seriously half the battle.
Amazingly done! I look forward to seeing what this actually will come out as.
Perseverance is the final take of this video, and this is what you have with every video you do. You do not give up and neither should we.
I'm a simple man. I see a Swedish Maker video, I watch and like. Edit: MORE COW CAMEOS! I'm so jealous you have cows. I love cows.
It seems I will have to introduce more cows
Cows are great! Mooing is a bonus feature, not a bug!
I kept facepalming every time you referred to a cow with an obviously engorged udder as "he" xD cool project.
Mooooooooooooooooo!
@@TheSwedishMaker It needs more cowbell.
Don't sweat the cows. They sound much better in the background than sirens and g_nfire. I love your life, too!
True! Its not city noise
@@TheSwedishMaker i live far away from city and i have dogs barking middle of the night randomly. i completely felt your paint when you were telling them to shut up. i've slept better in city near highway..
I kind of like the random background cow, I wish to hear more of them.
I think the cows were looking blank because you were speaking to them in English 😂 great video.
They only understand “kulning”.
ruclips.net/video/KvtT3UyhibQ/видео.html
You can make custom threads in fusion:
1. Do a sketch of the whole lenght of the thread (remember to account for extra loop after the set distance so you have geometry to the end). You need one like on right and left side of the axis.
2. Then a linear along the axis to be the path for a sweep.
3. Do a sweep from the bottom like to top line along the axis sketch you made. You need to do the revolutions math yourself to get the derised pitch. Input that as the rotation angle.
4. You should now have two surfaces.
5. Extreude a cylider (or hole... whatever)
6. Sketch the geometry of your thread profile as a regular sketch.
7. Select the profile sketch, do a sweep along the axis you sketched earlier. Choose the sweep tool and switch the type to "Path + Guide surface". Select the profile, the axis, and the guide surface, and do a cut operation.
It is counter intuitive if you come from other CAD suites. However! It makes 100% sense in the philsophy that F360 operates in. F360 isn't "absolutely" parameteric, in the mathematically way used in other CADs (Like Inventor, Solidworks, NX...). F360 is designed to be more intuitive to basic user, as everything you do in it, is done with objects in space. To experienced professionals used to the precisions and mathematical definitions and references of other CAD suites, this is extremely annoying. HOWEVER! The intended user of F360 is not like that. You can make things in Fusion by just moving objects to their desired locations, and operating with them or on them. Also the principal method is supposed to go: Rough solid sketch -> Detailing and finishing with Surface tools (Probably the easiest and most intuitive surface tools I have ever seen... Then again the bar is VERY low) -> possibly final detailing of meshes with mesh tools if you are desperate. This is actually extremely convinient and easy flow to use - I say this as someone who has used Solidworks for years, had to suffer with NX, and regularly uses Inventor.
It is easier to go from something like Blender to Fusion, than NX/Solidworks to Fusion. But once you get used to and accept the principle of working with Fusion, it is extremely quick and easy. I wouldn't use it to make complex load bearing structures with high precision maths and welding details. But I'm easily 2-3 times faster with it to make complex organic geometry than with any other CAD.
You don't need to print the threads past the start since you have the internal threads, you can simply use a short section of the printed threads to start, and then use the internally threaded part as a guide.
Now thats really nice to know!
I wasnt aware that you can make your own thread definitions like that.
In the past I've made custom threads by guiding a profile along the path of a coil.
Create a body (with a triangular section), create a sketch with the custom thread profile you want.
Then sweep that profile along one of the triangle edge of the coil.
Yeah this coil method is how I do my threads, in FreeCAD. Annoying program but I have a hard time finding anything better that's free for Linux.
As a Swedish tinkerer living abroad I really appreciate your ideas and love to see your outdoor b-roll!
Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
I had thoughts in this as a professional machinist. The different method you came up with instead has a unique advantage in directly supporting the shaft at any point, such as in the case of creating a thread at a specific area of the shaft rather than at each end. The immediate area before and after the thread can be supported, which would be useful for extra long, heavy, or bent screw shafts. Furthermore it can be adapted to cut mid-shaft splines and keyways, set screw holes, anything.
I believe the sleeve can be any size larger than the shaft, as long as the pitch of the thread remains the same. This would allow you to create two larger half nuts that can tightly clamp together with space for some hex screws that could be gently loosened or tightened quickly to slide up or down in position. The inside of the clamp can also be threaded and fit onto and match existing threaded rod, allowing the machine to easily make new, recut, or extend threads with identical timing. The clamping is important here as it would mean doing all this without having to exhaustively turn twist through a bushing to reach the desired starting point, it can simply be dropped in position and locked each time.
As someone playing a bit with wood and 3D printing and trying to get back to 3D moddeling, I can tell you that you perseverance is worthy of respect.
I totally understand the frustration of going back and work on new iterations but I'm certainly not as good as you haha, well done!
One of your better videos. I was rooting for you all the way on it and going through the emotions of excitement and disappointment. Well done! Can't wait to see the project
Brilliant solutions! The biggest is the totally custom threads in F360, but the idea and design of the dowel-threading jig is fantastic too. Super-practical and super-easy to create (at least once you figure out the custom threads in F360 😁)
Love your videos(!), the cows are a definite plus. “Cows as my muse”, I love it! 😂
My favourite part was calling all the female cows with udders him.
The thread prototyping came in a close second, great video
he said he wasn't an engineer, so maybe he is also not a veterinarian :)
So only the male cows with udders should be called him? .... what you mean that aint an udder?
I remember that was some popular 3D animated kids show, and bulls there had udders too.
@@sheerluckholmes5468bulls don't have udders, unless in very specific genetic mutation cases. they do have nipples but not udders, and their nipples are not easily visible.
Source: Work on cow farms repairing milking equipment.
Also cow is a species, bull is just the specific name given to male cows, but saying he for a cow is not incorrect.
Your production value has really increased as of late!
I really enjoy being able to see more of your personality in your videos, in addition to your creativity and problem solving.
Great content! Keep it up!
Thanks man! Appreciate it!
I appreciate you showing the process. There are so many curated youtube videos out there that only show the finished successful part.
I'm sorry, but can't you print the thing like in the first iteration of this project but based on the last iteration of internal threads? Just take this box with internal threads, remove half of it and add a hole for the blade? Wouldn't it let you to not print this long external threads thing but just use one little box for the entire length? Maybe even combine both ideas and use this new internal thread support in the front and the currently working external thread thing in the back. So that you get your wooden thread to begin with your solution and then continue by just pushing it like the previous guy did. I don't know if it'll work, but I guess that you might save some printing material without printing this long external thread thing
I was thinking the same, also I remember a Russian guy who made something similar but with way less tech, if I find it I'll share the link
I don't think it would be strong enough
@@Ahmad_Jamal_06 why?
From a Portuguese guy to the Swedish Maker: your creations are an inspiration. Thank you! Regards from Portugal
This was great! I love that you're using your 3D printer to allow you to do things besides make plastic parts. Thanks for sharing!
Great to see your rethinking the problem and coming with a different solution. This is literally thinking from the inside to outside the box (threadwise)
Great video. You can make jigs till the cows come home... literally!
10:02 as with any threads making tapering the front helps a lot .
I think the first version will work. It seems like there was an alignment issue. If you print a threaded plug you can use it to align the threads and the bit and also get the right height on the bit
Yep agreed, I think the alignment of the bit needs to be in alignment with the curved projection of the thread which might not be intuitive, and because of how much contact surface there is with the threaded guide, I would be generous on the tolerances / make the internal threads offset outwards a little. Printing a plug and making the cutting jig have a cutaway / section analysis (like having the bottom forwards quadrant of the box cut out) so you can see into the cutter "box" lets you examine how the bit comes into contact with the plug so you can really dial in the cutter position (remembering that you want to cutter to cut on the deeper side to give a tolerance fit with the guide threads).
With a certain steady speed you could also do it, but then you need something to regulate the speed, and the 3D print guidance is just a simple clever idea and probably even more tolerant :) Nice!
Single point thread cutting on a router table. I think that your final solution is a much better version than the first one and it also supports several passes with increased depth of cut which the first one can't really do without sacrificing precision (and I am an engineer, if that is worth anything...)
Great video. The setup, the plan, the cows, the success. Beautiful.
Also, first tip to get better at CAD, use a mouse.
For doing a thread with any profile you can make a sketch with your profile and cut from a cylinder it in a sweep operation.
You’re getting so good at making great videos. Your filming and editing skills are so professional. Hats off to you sir!
I love this video. If engineering is the art of solving problems, that's exactly what you did. Prototype, get feedback, iterate, and just kept going until you got your result. Thank you for sharing
If you had a problem with starting the thread in the first version, you had to make a guide cap at the front that starts the thread, this sleeve with an external thread unnecessarily complicates the project.
2:28 There's a saying in Dutch: "people only close the well after a calf has drowned". This on is putting it to the test.
Alternative method, 3d print the leading threads and glue it to the end of the dowel, this would allow you to get the feed rate locked in before the bit engages the wood, it would also be better supported with the guide being closer to the cutting tool, once the wood is engaging the threads you are smooth sailing. After you can just snap/cut the 3d print extension off.
Estaba mirando short's y de pronto vi el tuyo... me gusta tu actitud, disfrutas los proyectos, transmites energía positiva. Felicitaciones!
You're are more special than many engineers. Self-taught is better than higher education nowadays!
As a licensed professional engineer...I approve this message.
@@Makeitworx It depends.... as it always does!
Hi, remember me from last video ranting about you hyping me for a 3D printer? I still hate you, but I ordered the P1S ;) Planer has to wait lol.
😂 good for you!
Had a great time at Johnny's, we should do it again!
This feels so jarring, You are literally like proper printing but swedish, I love it
This is my first video I've seen from you. Was a fun to look your progress through the complete project. From the first idea till your final success. Great job 🎉
And from first seconds of your video you seemed to be a really sympatic and authentic guy.
So you catched me with clicking Abo on your channel😅
Greetings from South Germany
my freind you are an engineer you just went through the process and and im so glad i could see your journey
I'll admit the title intrigued me. Then when I learned what the subject was, I lost interest. But what kept me was your problem solving. Good job figuring it out! Excellent solution using the resources at hand.
This is the most brilliant video I've seen in a while. The project, the story, the everything.
Nice job. Thanks for the discovery of being able to add new thread forms to Fusion. Definitely going to use that one.
Another tip for Fusion360 and 3D printed threads is to use the Press/Pull feature. Use it to offset each side (2 separate features) of the thread profile by a negative value to "cut" away a small amount of material. That way you can really dial in the fit of your two parts.
If you know the pitch of the internal threads is right, scale the item up in the X and Y sizes (leave Z alone) and try again. Can step it up until you've got an idea of what works, then adjust your internal threads in the model to reflect those scalings.
Maybe the jig number 2 would have worked if you had tapered the tip of the wood?
1. I subscribed at 4:13 Your video style was smooth, and you seem like such an interesting guy to follow.
2. Don't be bothered by the cow sounds. I know living near them might be annoying, but hearing them in the video was fine.
Really enjoyed the light hearted approach to this vid 🙂
And really looking forward to the next new workshop update 👍
That was a wonderful journey. I have all those same emotions on nearly every project. Congratulations!
When your 3d printing, change the infill from grid to gyroid. Grid can bend your nozzle. Just a tip
Gyroid is surprisingly strong from multiple axes!!!
@5:17 XML files are configuration files. They are meant to be used to configure the software. They may be in an obscure location due to the software's file tree setup, but they aren't intentionally hidden. Many software even have built in ways to configure them.
Och my god you just solved my issue with threads. I have an inflatable kayak and the valve on it is not compatible with the pump they supply with the kayak - and there are NO available adapters for this type. It has a proprietary thread - the closes was some random piping thread from a UK standard.
This - with the fusion hack is what I need to create an adaptor that holds the pump in place!
You are a god sent! THANK YOU!
That was a lot of fun to watch. Great story telling techniques! Thanks!
So nice to hear the cows in the background. And the video content is pretty good too.
I'm sure my father (master carpenter/joiner) had a really old fashioned wood thread cutter, it's more of knife with an angled blade than a modern style die. I'll see if I can find it and take pics. If you think about it the grain goes length ways so your cutting across the grain, so cutting is better, rather than ripping chunks out and spelching the wood.
And yes I do own a 3D printer - joke btw.
I'm going to continue to watch to see if you caught this error, but the view of the CAD model at 5:43 shows the root of the threads (where the tip of the router bit will be cutting) as flat yet you are cutting with a pointed router bit. I'm wondering if you took that into account when setting the router bit height (i.e. not cutting enough wood to allow thread engagement with the fixture).
Let them moo. it be quiet enough to be an Easter egg for keen listeners. This is my first view of the channel. Enjoyed the problem solving.
Man, you are absolutely killing it with the story in your videos. I need to be taking notes, congrats on all the success!
Thanks Brandon! Appreciate it!
My 3d printed threads are always a bit snug, so i add .2mm clearance to the relevant surfaces in f360 :)
Great Video! 😊
Using my python script saves the hassle. Look in the Fusion 360 subreddit for my post titled "3D printing threads help" to find it. It gives you a second set of thread definitions for 3D printing generated by applying offsets to the standard definitions based on thread pitch.
@@ClaytonMacleod nice! That is Even better :)
That was very enjoyable for many many reasons
Push all thread faces/planes 0.2mm inward. Don't just "scale" the entire thing.
Glad you figured it out, this method was my exact first thought on your first attempt
You can most definitely make the first design work with using the coil option in fusion and a sketch of the carving bit used on the saw. With that and some clearance you can make custom threads that include the pitch and depth of the drill bit. Also you will be able to control the spacing between the turns for optimal strenght of the wood. Hope this helps or at least gives you new ideas on how to improve the design!
That’s a clever way to design custom threads. My background in solid works 2014 requires that if you want to make threads that will convert to an STL file you have to do model them manually. So you start out with a hole or bar that’s the size you need. Then draw a thread profile at the correct diameter that is then cut into the material following a spiral at the correct pitch. Just like a tap, die or how you cut your threads. Nice work
I haven't messed with Fusion 360 lately, but there should a sweep cut option on there you can draw a helix in the diameter and pitch that you need for any thread size you could imagine. You would have to define the thread profile yourself, but it is doable. It would also give you way more flexibility for getting things to fit since you're not stuck with a predefined thread profile. One of the great things about making is that there are multiple ways to solve something and I love the ingenuity!
That right there. But it never hurts to know how to do things more than one way (even if one of them is hacking the software).
There are how-to videos on youtube explaining that process step by step. Seems a bit strange that a youtube creator did not even look for a video on how to do helical cuts in a few minutes, but instead went down into a plugin programming rabbit hole. 😂
The little clap at 13:24 when it finally worked made my day. Thanks
What a great ride you took us on here. ❤❤
Thanks Jesper! 💚
Use the outer thread block, the one that the dowel can thread into, to pull the remaining dowel length. 3 prints total from left to right - the outer thread block, a smooth guide, and an inner thread block that mates with the threaded sleave. The threaded sleave is used to cut the first set of threads. The outer thread block is screwed to the dowel and uses the threads themselves to pull the remaining length. Similar to the first design that tried to do it in one print.
I think pask makes has a good video on wooden threads. I like your approach using 3d printer.
Great job! Also, when it's snug (but not too snug) a bit of beeswax can help. I normally would put it on the 3D printed dowel's threads, but in you case I would put some on the threads you're screwing into. OR, you could print a larger receiver.... LMAO! As another "not engineer" that's doing 3D printing, this was very fun to watch!
That look of triumph in a man's face when he finally achieves what he wanted 👌👌
Once you have the threads started with the last strategy, it should be very easy to get the first jig working with a full depth cut so you can make longer threaded rods.
Before the router bit, cut a thin angled slot with the thread pitch and put a thin sheet metal with a 1/3 half-round notch with a knife edge to catch the surface of the dowel and guide it forward to the router bit at the correct thread pitch. It works with a hand die. I was a non-degreed engineering technician specializing in solving the problems of incompetent engineers at a nuclear power plant.
8:22 I love that you actually spent the time to set up this angle lol
One issue with unsealed wood is as humidity changes the wood will expand or contract, so using that with another material means your screw interface will get tighter or looser with humidity changes. Looking forward to seeing what you are building.
As another self taught engineer that was also dealing with threads. I found I had to add a bit of a gap between the internal and external threads. I think I did 1mm, maybe .5mm. I made a bottle gravity water thing for some plants. Just filled a 2 liter bottle and run a tube from it to a bunch of pots.
Edit: Looks like you got it to work. Congrats! I know the first time I had to make custom threads without any real clue what I was doing blew my mind.
Print shrink is a real problem. Depending on your material, you have some percent you need to compensate for. As an engineer, you have exactly the right process to design and solve a problem!
Fantastic solution. Great video !!
Engineering often requires some trial and error, well done for persisting with it, life has no mistakes - only opportunities for learning :)
It's great to watch you work through the challenge. Bravo.
Excellent work 👏👏👏 on all of it. The designs and different iterations and the thought process to get to the end result and the fusion 360 custom thread size vant wait to see what you make
New to the channel and instantly subscribed when I heard “I need to go check the cows” was really not expecting that in this type of video
One issue with accuracy might be due to your clamping direction: sideways against the 2x2 instead of down. Next time, try milling a slot for extruded T-Slot in the top of the 2x2, then use T-Slot clamps to hold the 3D printed jigs against the router table. Similarly, you can enhance the threading jig by adding a small printed ring to the bottom, so it locates in the router lift trim ring.
Great video. And that is exactly why we love 3d printing.... to create your own solution.
Nice work, its a nightmare of a thing to do, from memory, I did a similar thing a couple of years ago, but the only difference was that instead of 3d printing a threaded sleeve to go around the dowel, I 3d printed a threaded tip to hot glue to the end of my dowel, this meant I could set my router bit height, using the print, but also, the 3d printed tip would get the timber spinning in the router jig to the correct pitch. Always cool to see other mediums being used with 3d printing as a jig/guide tool
lol! The cows are my favorite part of the video. Love the search for tech solutions, of course.
Just gotta love ppl like you. Very nice project
Great video as always love watching how you keep trying and trying until you always get it. Never give up. Thanks for sharing
actually this is a great solution. if you make a second box with thread, the rod could go inside when already some thread on it, then fix the box to the fence, so you dont need the fixed plastic thread anymore, therefore you need a short plastic thread for any length of rod.
1) Look at a bolt, see the taper at the lead in for the threads.
2) Your ideal for threads in the block at the D-Bit, was correct, you just didn't have the taper.
3) The plastic threads, at the D-Bit, would then have pulled the dowel through as you first thought.
Best wishes from Northern Canada.
The cows were yelling encouragement. They say “you can do it!” And they are lovely muses.
but we still don’t know WHY you needed to do this
Not everything needs a why. Sometimes we just get an idea and want to see it through.
@jeepthangjim why?
@jerrebrasfield4231 Wouldn't you like to know random YT person.
@@jeepthangjim but he alluded to his printer paying for itself with this project which suggests that this project was important in some monetary form - so why did he need this print, for what task or sale did he need it that was then worth money?
@@HexnHammerI think it payed for itself because he didn’t have to pay for the thousand dollar tool not that the project us monetary but hey I could be wrong
5:21 wow that was smart! great job man
Thanks man!
Please have cows in every video from now on.
Will do
When it comes to modeling threads you dont necessarily need to use the built in tools. You can draw the profile of the thread, generate a helical sketch then do a swept cut to make the feature.
Or just use the spiral tool
Great video! I think you could use the first jig if you cut the end in half to a depth of at least your screw pitch; that way the router bit can enter from that new plane in the middle of the dowel
Engineering student here. Putting a peg in a hole can result in interference fitment if the hole is smaller than the peg. In other words, you jam it.
If you want the peg to fit in the hole snugly, but not loose, the hole is only a tiny bit bigger. Since reality is never exactly the same as design, we have to have add a clearance. A tiny gap in design between the parts so that they can fit together as intended. How tight or loose it is depends on this clearance.
You’ll be able to adjust this in fusion. There are plenty of RUclips videos explaining how to do this for 3D printed parts, but it might require some testing because it may look differently for wood than it would PLA.
Also as mentioned by others, you should sharpen the point of the screw to make it self align.
It’s my first time on your channel and I like it so far. I’m a big fan of people who jump into projects like this. It’s the best way to learn. Great video
Pask Makes has some great videos on wooden thread cutting, that will help you refine your approach.
Replace the cows with cats, the entire internet will love you for it!
ew. boring