Hey, thanks for watching. For those of you concerned that I sold out my soul to a sponsor, don't worry.... I rewrote the contract! If you're interested, I go into more detail here: ruclips.net/user/postUgkxLXlJBATqOAsa6oto3DBZi2Dkx4ecvNFf
Thanks for adressing this! I ignore anything related to praise of the FLSUN due to the shady contracts :D might be a good printer, but impossible to know right now as anyone posting about it gets paid to praise it...
When I get to the end of a spool, I switch to “print by object” and print a bunch of small items I have backlogged. Would love to hear more ideas on this.
For the bearings, randomize the seam. At least I was seeing the seams in couple shots and while it's faster to have them aligned, for anything spinning even the smallest bump of seams is just bad. No seams at all would be the best but the next good option is to spread them around so you don't have a speed bump in your bearing (and every part of it).
True. I use scarf joints all the time and I forgot about seams for the last months. And when you need strength or stability, combining both (random + scarf joints) solves any issue
I’ve seen many “Tools to 3D Print,” and this is by far the best one with the most tools I actually DO want to print! Well done! Can’t wait for your next “Tools To 3D Print” video!
Wow thanks that’s high praise. I’ve done a few of them and this one felt like I was finally reaching the end of the good tools…. I had to dig deep to get a good list of them! Glad it was worth it.
Really appreciate you making these videos! It's great that you're willing to curate, print, review and share. There are so many models out there, it's easy to choose the wrong one - these types of videos help a lot. And kudos on the filming. It's difficult to make 3d printed parts look good on camera.
6 дней назад+11
Thanks, great video do you mind sharing the link to the 3d printed bearings? Culd not find them in the notes or the printables collection.
I have to comment again, partially because I left a negative comment on your announcement post earlier. This is probably the most refreshing 3d printing channel I've seen in a long time. Really appreciate your authenticity, insights, and humor
Howdy dude! It’s been a while since I commented on your channel (and it’s been a while since I 3D printed something but I’m back LOL)… hope you and your family are well . Alexander Chappel is a great designer. Actually Gridfinity was inspired by one of his designs (which I actually paid for and were my actual first functional 3D prints , way before Zack improved the design and made it open). I find it so cool that you refer to his work.he deserves it. Best wishes from Brazil.
Honestly delta printers are amazing to see how they move. It almost seems magical watching all the arms move. The only down side is how much room they take.
Every time you clear a spot or a bin with everything thrown in it and you get busy again you automatically think oh there's an empty spot or an empty bin I'll just throw it in there and that happens again and again and again and again until it's full or it becomes a problem so I just made a bend or an area for each type of thing so I have organized junk boxes lol, and the tentacle system is the best helping hands
Combination of factors. Pushing the speed, not high speed PLA, and I exported the profiles to another slicer and they didn’t import properly. I’ve since gotten better quality prints out of the T1 pro. But sit tight, I’ll show them off in the next video.
@@thenextlayer I tried importing MK4 Profiles from PrusaSlicer to OrcaSlicer and it gave me horrible results, especially at the seams. I tried with the built in profiles and tweak them, but didn't achieve to get the same speeds. Changing slicers seems to make a huge difference.
What I kind of despise is hex grind on everything. It increases print time by tens thousands of retractions and acceleration for the sake of saving tens of grams of filament on walls and good luck with wet PETG. Fun design which I found were tiny stackable beer crates for variety of batteries, due to size it had problem with retractions, but it can be scaled up to create rigid boxes that do not use much material.
Only think I can add...KNOW YOUR PRINTER THERE NOT AL THE SAME EVEN IF ITS THE SAME BRAND....electronics can be the same but not always perform the same...keep that in mind always try 1 and remember the cooler the room is the better...over 89 degrees problems might start over 91 degrees then yeah problems n time for break.
Dude the "last meter" is a thing we do at our house a lot. All the poop buckets for the Bambus, any functional prototypes, or even a few dragons and snakes for fun. I'd watch that
The last meter prints idea would be awesome to watch, I've had a spool of black pla on my printer for a long time because I didn't know what to do with it 😂
If you're going to base the sorter off Gridfinity anyways, just make a tray withe the overhanging sorting spouts that has a grid base on the bottom. That way you can use any size Gridfinity container, to sort into, and just use the same height containers under the tray as a base.... (runs off to model it) Also, I've had a lot of luck with printable bearings that use 6mm airsoft bb's. Very smooth!
Wow, that Counter Cleanup Scoop is 5h 42m printing on my BBL A1, not what I would call "fast". But no worries. I just shrunk it down a little, so I could get 2 of them on the bed plate, which only increased print time by about and hour. These will get a lot of use in our kitchen and coffee room!
I did make the soldering helping hand out of prusament petg. It did work with an absolute maximum of 5 links but they were too loose for more so while soldering it sometimes just fell over, also the grippers are a bit loose, i do think this can all be fixed
Just remember for measuring force of those clamps, you can use leverage by clamping across a pair of bars with a fulcrum at one end, and the scale at the other. Adjust the location of the clamp towards the point where the fulcrum is until the scale gives you in range force numbers, then multiply that by the ratio of the distance between the fulcrum to the distance from the fulcrum to the clamp. Mathias Wandel does something like that for measuring strain when testing various materials and joints.
And the towel hanger exerts its force as sideways vector converted from the downward force while the clamping triangle directs the residual gravitational force inwards towards the back, by way of the triangular shape. Not sure the layer orientation is as much of a problem as it might look
If the sorting design was gridfinity you would not need any pins. Use a 6 x 6 base, sorting tray 4x4, that gives 1 gridfinity width on either side for 1x1 or 1x1-6 bins.
I'm sitting on almost half a dozen spools that have enough to keep but not enough to use filament on them lol. Would love a few ideas to print to clean up the mess.
I love 3D printing and do a lot of it myself but in my opinion, and i think MANY people who have a 3D printer forget it, Think about what you really need before printing. The Brush for example. No they are not more enviromentaly friendly than cheap wooden ones. They are made of wood, metal, most of the time some fiber or animal hair and a tiny bit of color. All of this parts are biodegradable really easy and they perfectionated producing them. You can get 100 Cheap brushes for a few bucks. Or the Helping hand thing. I bought one on amazon with a really heavy metal base plate so it stays strong with 6 arms. It was also very cheap, has a as said really heavy base so it doesnt move when you work, its "claws" are rubber coated and has metal springs. Only 30$ or so. Dont print such a thing yourself and then throw it away after because it doesnt work like advertised because something didnt work right while printing or otherwise. Think if you really need it and then print it.
Hey, I would love to print more kitchen gadgets but I am worried about making things food safe? do you have any places you can point me for info on that?
If it touches food don’t 3d print it or you need to sand it and ideally coat it with food grade silicone. It if it touches clean things like utensils don’t worry about it
I want to see your last meter print ideas video, one of the things to print are some fidgets, and there are many choices that can be printed in the last meter prints and they print quite fast
The one thing about the kitchen scrap bin that I don't like is that it is fdm printed, which means it is an extremely porous surface. It's going to pick up particles of food that you'll never get out and eventually it's going to start to smell.
Hey, thanks for your legitimate concern. You'll be happy to know that I did not sign the contract, I rewrote and redlined it. If you're interested, I go into more detail here: ruclips.net/user/postUgkxLXlJBATqOAsa6oto3DBZi2Dkx4ecvNFf
Hey! When can I see a more detailed review? The print speed looks amazing! Just saw the price-$399? OMG!!! Hope the detailed review drops before that price ends. Thx for the awesome videos and all the interesting stuff you share.
Great video! I'll definitely be investigating some of these. Although one slight qualm with the hardware design board - I've found that different filaments have different tolerances. Not sure how well that will work for me with my variety of brands and types.
I think you’re onto something with the sorting bins + Gridfinity. Forget the side pins, make the center into a cover for a (3x2?) bin, and set your gf binds around the sides, all on a grid.
Hello, sorry first of all for my translation, I am Spanish and my level of English is low, I am thinking of buying a filament printer, but I am seriously divided between 2 that were the ones that caught my attention the most after seeing countless reviews and testimonials of people who use both printers but I can't decide which one could be the best option, I'm between buying the Prusa MK4S with the MMU3 and the Bamboo Lab X1C with AMS, if you could give me your opinion about it since the difference in money doesn't matter to me I just want a good printer that prints no problems and is respectful of waste derived from color change, thanks a greeting
Can’t go wrong either way honestly. If you want to print more engineering materials or things like ABS, the Bambu will be better. If you want a more reliable workhorse that’s easier to maintain, Prusa. My link for Prusa if you wish to support the channel is jle.vi/prusa
Love your videos! In your printables list of stls you’re missing the soldering clamp thing you printed as the alternative to the articulated one. Would you mind posting that one? Btw, I’m also from Israel! Thank you so much for representing us. There are so few Israeli creators breaking through into the mainstream, so even though 3d printing isn’t exactly mainstream, it’s cool to see that TNL is a must watch channel in this space. כל הכבוד אחי!!!!
If you select from "most downloaded" you just follow the move. There's a LOT of unknown tools that are way better than the most downloaded. By the way, Alexcandre Chappelle's hardware jigs are NOT universal, and he not even say which ISO/DIN type he uses. So it you have on the shelf the same as his, you're pretty dang lucky... By the way, we kniw FL-SUN policy which is questionnable.
Just a quick note about the FLsun, it has come to light in the last 24 hours that they are trying to buy positive reviews and send out conditions on review videos, like demanding to view and demand edits of said review videos before publishing. I don't want to start a shitshow about this but please be careful. The printer might be good but FLsun's business practicess seems very shady to me.
Hey, thanks for your legitimate concern. You'll be happy to know that I did not sign the contract, I rewrote and redlined it. If you're interested, I go into more detail here: ruclips.net/user/postUgkxLXlJBATqOAsa6oto3DBZi2Dkx4ecvNFf With that said, I will reconsider working with them again in the future.
Love these videos but I'm always a bit surprised by the quality of many of your prints (in a bad way - sorry). Inconsistent layer lines and gaps or bulges around seams in particular. Maybe you're just printing at a very high speed and don't care, but regardless, I wanted to suggest that for each brand & type of filament you do a quick PA Tower calibration print and a Flow Ratio calibration print and store the settings in a filament profile. I think people greatly underestimate the value of setting the proper Pressure Advance K value in particular. It can be the difference between things fitting together or not and can completely transform your seams as well.
Hey, thanks for watching. For those of you concerned that I sold out my soul to a sponsor, don't worry.... I rewrote the contract! If you're interested, I go into more detail here: ruclips.net/user/postUgkxLXlJBATqOAsa6oto3DBZi2Dkx4ecvNFf
Thanks for adressing this! I ignore anything related to praise of the FLSUN due to the shady contracts :D might be a good printer, but impossible to know right now as anyone posting about it gets paid to praise it...
Oh you are one of them guys....
Last meter print video is an awesome idea
.....and there I was...I thought I was special and the only guy with a 3D printer who does not know what to do with the annoying short left overs...
I agree!
I also agree 😊
YES !
@@45jayster agreed!
I definitely would watch last meter prints.
The towel holders are honestly a holy grail.
Interesting what "terms and conditions" were in your contract with FLSUN for reviewing the T1 PRO????
Great video today! I really want to try out this kind of printer. Thanks for sharing!😆
When I get to the end of a spool, I switch to “print by object” and print a bunch of small items I have backlogged. Would love to hear more ideas on this.
OMG I love the towel hanger!!! Thank you for sharing it!
For the bearings, randomize the seam. At least I was seeing the seams in couple shots and while it's faster to have them aligned, for anything spinning even the smallest bump of seams is just bad. No seams at all would be the best but the next good option is to spread them around so you don't have a speed bump in your bearing (and every part of it).
Good point! Forgot to do that.
Try scarf seams
True. I use scarf joints all the time and I forgot about seams for the last months. And when you need strength or stability, combining both (random + scarf joints) solves any issue
I need these in my life!!!!
First/Middle/Last meter print video is an awesome idea to explore.
Noted!
Interesting video, but you should also include links in the description for easy access
They’re down there!
@@thenextlayer Oh, sorry, I didn't notice them the first time ! Thanks for pointing that out !!
I’ve seen many “Tools to 3D Print,” and this is by far the best one with the most tools I actually DO want to print! Well done! Can’t wait for your next “Tools To 3D Print” video!
Wow thanks that’s high praise. I’ve done a few of them and this one felt like I was finally reaching the end of the good tools…. I had to dig deep to get a good list of them! Glad it was worth it.
@@thenextlayer I’ve seen your other ones, but this one is the best one! Can’t wait for your next video! Sharing this with all my 3D Printing buddies!
Really appreciate you making these videos! It's great that you're willing to curate, print, review and share. There are so many models out there, it's easy to choose the wrong one - these types of videos help a lot. And kudos on the filming. It's difficult to make 3d printed parts look good on camera.
Thanks, great video do you mind sharing the link to the 3d printed bearings? Culd not find them in the notes or the printables collection.
Added to the collection!
Wow those clamps are handy! I really need to get on that! Thanks for showing us!
You're welcome! Glad you like them!
Great idea! really need that towel rack slt file! Where can I get it
All models are in the description
13:52 This is literally the very first thing I modeled myself, and one of the reasons I even got a 3D printer in the first place LOL
Moral of the story: “I tried it in PLA but it didn’t work very well.”
...but then i tried it in prusament Petg and, would you believe it, it works!
I love the interwebs!
If you have a print-in-place bearing, don't print it out and wedge it into a 3d print, add it to the slicer or stl so it's printed already in place...
Another great video, thank you! Praying for you and your family and extended family in these challenging times.
When you scale them do it by percentage not by dragging..if you scale them woth same percentage you'll should in a perfect world they will work.
YES I would love to get more ideas on what to print with the end of filament on the roll... always looking for more ideas on that!
You’re such a genius I love every tool you’ve printed and can’t wait to get my hands on them😍😍
Love the video! So far, this is my favourite 3d Printing channel. Also love the podcast. And thank you for sharing these functional prints!
Glad you're enjoying the content!
I have to comment again, partially because I left a negative comment on your announcement post earlier. This is probably the most refreshing 3d printing channel I've seen in a long time. Really appreciate your authenticity, insights, and humor
Glad I could win you over! Doing my best to give value!
Howdy dude! It’s been a while since I commented on your channel (and it’s been a while since I 3D printed something but I’m back LOL)… hope you and your family are well .
Alexander Chappel is a great designer. Actually Gridfinity was inspired by one of his designs (which I actually paid for and were my actual first functional 3D prints , way before Zack improved the design and made it open). I find it so cool that you refer to his work.he deserves it.
Best wishes from Brazil.
Perfect timing! Was looking for a vid to watch
Please do a last meter print video!!!
They are some really nice prints! And yes to those designs about the left over filament.
Yes please on the last meter prints!
I would watch your last mtr print video.
Same. I have almost 10 rolls with less than 6m left on them
Great video! I love your style and all the awesome ideas you come up with. Thanks for sharing these tools!
Awesome video thanks !
Yes it will be great to see what you do with your end filament rolls, I'm always asking myself what to print with ...
Honestly delta printers are amazing to see how they move. It almost seems magical watching all the arms move. The only down side is how much room they take.
Definitely would like some ideas on last meter printing to reduce waste. Informative and well made video.
Every time you clear a spot or a bin with everything thrown in it and you get busy again you automatically think oh there's an empty spot or an empty bin I'll just throw it in there and that happens again and again and again and again until it's full or it becomes a problem so I just made a bend or an area for each type of thing so I have organized junk boxes lol, and the tentacle system is the best helping hands
Would definitely watch a vid of tips on using up the end of rolls! And of that new printer.
The print-in-place bearings are actually nice for the spool holder because the friction gives a bit of tension while respooling.
Came here to say this. Now I've realised this I think I might replace the ones in my spool rollers!
Very low print quality of much of this. Were you pushing the speed or something?
Combination of factors. Pushing the speed, not high speed PLA, and I exported the profiles to another slicer and they didn’t import properly. I’ve since gotten better quality prints out of the T1 pro. But sit tight, I’ll show them off in the next video.
@@thenextlayer I tried importing MK4 Profiles from PrusaSlicer to OrcaSlicer and it gave me horrible results, especially at the seams. I tried with the built in profiles and tweak them, but didn't achieve to get the same speeds. Changing slicers seems to make a huge difference.
Last Meter and the FLSUN review for sure. TBH, anything and everything!
yes we need a video about last filament
What I kind of despise is hex grind on everything. It increases print time by tens thousands of retractions and acceleration for the sake of saving tens of grams of filament on walls and good luck with wet PETG. Fun design which I found were tiny stackable beer crates for variety of batteries, due to size it had problem with retractions, but it can be scaled up to create rigid boxes that do not use much material.
20:57 I've seen videos of printed bearings that use filaments string pieces as cylinders instead of steel balls.
Last meter prints please.
TPU towel hook is amazing
Only think I can add...KNOW YOUR PRINTER THERE NOT AL THE SAME EVEN IF ITS THE SAME BRAND....electronics can be the same but not always perform the same...keep that in mind always try 1 and remember the cooler the room is the better...over 89 degrees problems might start over 91 degrees then yeah problems n time for break.
Dude the "last meter" is a thing we do at our house a lot. All the poop buckets for the Bambus, any functional prototypes, or even a few dragons and snakes for fun. I'd watch that
Really appreciate the Headphone warning. Although, it was quite OK, but still love to see it. Thanks.
The last meter prints idea would be awesome to watch, I've had a spool of black pla on my printer for a long time because I didn't know what to do with it 😂
N make sure your belt tension is nice n snug so your lines aren't that bad..sometimes very non existent if done right.
Wrist pivot scoop
😂😂😂
Appears to be modified male urinal!!!
No wonder the fellows instinctively knew how to handle it!
❤❤❤
If you're going to base the sorter off Gridfinity anyways, just make a tray withe the overhanging sorting spouts that has a grid base on the bottom. That way you can use any size Gridfinity container, to sort into, and just use the same height containers under the tray as a base.... (runs off to model it)
Also, I've had a lot of luck with printable bearings that use 6mm airsoft bb's. Very smooth!
Good idea! Do it!
Wow, that Counter Cleanup Scoop is 5h 42m printing on my BBL A1, not what I would call "fast". But no worries. I just shrunk it down a little, so I could get 2 of them on the bed plate, which only increased print time by about and hour. These will get a lot of use in our kitchen and coffee room!
That's a cool printer, so yes to the review.
I love how this guy puts so much work into his description.
You can thank our admin Leslie for that!
Hi, thank you for the video. I have a question about the T1 Pro. Can its nozzle be swopped out for a hardened steel nozzle?
I did make the soldering helping hand out of prusament petg. It did work with an absolute maximum of 5 links but they were too loose for more so while soldering it sometimes just fell over, also the grippers are a bit loose, i do think this can all be fixed
Just remember for measuring force of those clamps, you can use leverage by clamping across a pair of bars with a fulcrum at one end, and the scale at the other. Adjust the location of the clamp towards the point where the fulcrum is until the scale gives you in range force numbers, then multiply that by the ratio of the distance between the fulcrum to the distance from the fulcrum to the clamp. Mathias Wandel does something like that for measuring strain when testing various materials and joints.
do it Last meter print video is an awesome idea
And the towel hanger exerts its force as sideways vector converted from the downward force while the clamping triangle directs the residual gravitational force inwards towards the back, by way of the triangular shape. Not sure the layer orientation is as much of a problem as it might look
End of roll prints were my thing until the ams… still be an interesting video
Cool I’m on it
I only need so many paint triangles. So would love to see a last meter idea video.
I would like a video on ideas to use up my almost empty spools
On it!
Print a fractal vise for circuit boards and use blue tack for wires. All you will ever need. I have a closet full of helping hands i never use.
If you do an episode for the last meter, printables had a contest awhile ago; would be a good place to start
If the sorting design was gridfinity you would not need any pins. Use a 6 x 6 base, sorting tray 4x4, that gives 1 gridfinity width on either side for 1x1 or 1x1-6 bins.
I'm sitting on almost half a dozen spools that have enough to keep but not enough to use filament on them lol.
Would love a few ideas to print to clean up the mess.
Have you thought about teaching us how to create those things? Like the wall spool holder?
I love 3D printing and do a lot of it myself but in my opinion, and i think MANY people who have a 3D printer forget it, Think about what you really need before printing.
The Brush for example. No they are not more enviromentaly friendly than cheap wooden ones. They are made of wood, metal, most of the time some fiber or animal hair and a tiny bit of color. All of this parts are biodegradable really easy and they perfectionated producing them. You can get 100 Cheap brushes for a few bucks.
Or the Helping hand thing. I bought one on amazon with a really heavy metal base plate so it stays strong with 6 arms. It was also very cheap, has a as said really heavy base so it doesnt move when you work, its "claws" are rubber coated and has metal springs. Only 30$ or so. Dont print such a thing yourself and then throw it away after because it doesnt work like advertised because something didnt work right while printing or otherwise.
Think if you really need it and then print it.
The counter cleaning scoop will solve 3 of my Christmas presents. Cheers from the U.K.
Hey, I would love to print more kitchen gadgets but I am worried about making things food safe? do you have any places you can point me for info on that?
If it touches food don’t 3d print it or you need to sand it and ideally coat it with food grade silicone. It if it touches clean things like utensils don’t worry about it
Last meter print! Keep chanting it guys!
I want to see your last meter print ideas video, one of the things to print are some fidgets, and there are many choices that can be printed in the last meter prints and they print quite fast
I definitely want to see a video of what to print with my almost gone rolls.
The one thing about the kitchen scrap bin that I don't like is that it is fdm printed, which means it is an extremely porous surface. It's going to pick up particles of food that you'll never get out and eventually it's going to start to smell.
Maybe but you can print it out of PETG or ABS and run it through the dish washer
Yes to the last meter prints. I have a collection of small items, but can only use so many of those things.
So how much did you get for the "cooperation fee" from FLSUN?
Hey, thanks for your legitimate concern. You'll be happy to know that I did not sign the contract, I rewrote and redlined it. If you're interested, I go into more detail here: ruclips.net/user/postUgkxLXlJBATqOAsa6oto3DBZi2Dkx4ecvNFf
just a short warning there are some small mistakes in the M3 board from Alex.
there are some values from the M8 Board printed on it.
Hey! When can I see a more detailed review? The print speed looks amazing! Just saw the price-$399? OMG!!! Hope the detailed review drops before that price ends. Thx for the awesome videos and all the interesting stuff you share.
Yep last meter prints please. Alot of people definitely interested.
Great video! I'll definitely be investigating some of these.
Although one slight qualm with the hardware design board - I've found that different filaments have different tolerances. Not sure how well that will work for me with my variety of brands and types.
Can you just print the bearing in place on the spool roller and skip the install issue?
Last meter video!
I think you’re onto something with the sorting bins + Gridfinity. Forget the side pins, make the center into a cover for a (3x2?) bin, and set your gf binds around the sides, all on a grid.
Hello, sorry first of all for my translation, I am Spanish and my level of English is low, I am thinking of buying a filament printer, but I am seriously divided between 2 that were the ones that caught my attention the most after seeing countless reviews and testimonials of people who use both printers but I can't decide which one could be the best option, I'm between buying the Prusa MK4S with the MMU3 and the Bamboo Lab X1C with AMS, if you could give me your opinion about it since the difference in money doesn't matter to me I just want a good printer that prints no problems and is respectful of waste derived from color change, thanks a greeting
Can’t go wrong either way honestly. If you want to print more engineering materials or things like ABS, the Bambu will be better. If you want a more reliable workhorse that’s easier to maintain, Prusa. My link for Prusa if you wish to support the channel is jle.vi/prusa
Has anybody ever suggested graphite as a lubricant? I'm new to your channel so I wouldn't be surprised if you have a whole video on such a topic
Would actually love that last meter print video
Lots of great prints to try I think I'll use some graphene powder on those bearings Those will be so handy
Pro tip: instead of using only Brims to stick to bed. Use rafts + brims.
Love your videos! In your printables list of stls you’re missing the soldering clamp thing you printed as the alternative to the articulated one. Would you mind posting that one? Btw, I’m also from Israel! Thank you so much for representing us. There are so few Israeli creators breaking through into the mainstream, so even though 3d printing isn’t exactly mainstream, it’s cool to see that TNL is a must watch channel in this space. כל הכבוד אחי!!!!
It’s on maker world I put another link!
If you select from "most downloaded" you just follow the move. There's a LOT of unknown tools that are way better than the most downloaded. By the way, Alexcandre Chappelle's hardware jigs are NOT universal, and he not even say which ISO/DIN type he uses. So it you have on the shelf the same as his, you're pretty dang lucky... By the way, we kniw FL-SUN policy which is questionnable.
I would love some ideas for last meter prints. I have several ~15 m samples I'd love to get rid of.
Hi, can you also make a comparison between ultimaker and intamsys?
Delta printers are cool
Just a quick note about the FLsun, it has come to light in the last 24 hours that they are trying to buy positive reviews and send out conditions on review videos, like demanding to view and demand edits of said review videos before publishing.
I don't want to start a shitshow about this but please be careful. The printer might be good but FLsun's business practicess seems very shady to me.
Hey, thanks for your legitimate concern. You'll be happy to know that I did not sign the contract, I rewrote and redlined it. If you're interested, I go into more detail here: ruclips.net/user/postUgkxLXlJBATqOAsa6oto3DBZi2Dkx4ecvNFf
With that said, I will reconsider working with them again in the future.
@ Thank you for the swift response and post. I am so happy we have people like you and the other creators to keep these companies in line.
Love these videos but I'm always a bit surprised by the quality of many of your prints (in a bad way - sorry). Inconsistent layer lines and gaps or bulges around seams in particular. Maybe you're just printing at a very high speed and don't care, but regardless, I wanted to suggest that for each brand & type of filament you do a quick PA Tower calibration print and a Flow Ratio calibration print and store the settings in a filament profile. I think people greatly underestimate the value of setting the proper Pressure Advance K value in particular. It can be the difference between things fitting together or not and can completely transform your seams as well.
I think i will do a Gridfinity Version of the Sorter thats really something i need 😅
Would love if you could print my AMS lite spool removal tool and give it a review.
It's definitely worth it's weight in filament.
I use xy hole compensation for any print place parts. I dont need, but i always need to free the part touching the build plate.