Agreed with the less innuendos. I'm not offended by them but I think they distract from the video with the quantity that were included and the asides that pointed them out. If you are going to make an innuendo, it should just be left to stand on its own otherwise it feels very forced and unnatural. Also, not digging the haircut. I think you need to go shorter on the top as you have a taller ratio face and the taller hair doesn't balance it out.
Hi! I am the designer of the Solder Scroll. Thanks for featuring my design! The tolerances should work with most well-tuned printers. Removing the seam with a small file on the inside of the gears should help as well. Otherwise increase the gear size with a few percent. Hope that helps!
I don't want to come off negatively, but what is the purpose of the Solder Scroll? From the introduction in the video, it first sounded like it was supposed to free up a hand, but upon closer inspection, that doesn't seem to be the case, so what's the advantage over just holding the solder between your fingers? If anything, holding the solder directly only requires two fingers, leaving three for holding wires/components/board in place.
I don't usually comment on RUclips or give reviews, but I have to say that I printed your model today on my P1S, and it worked perfectly on the first try! (No lubricant applied) I actually told myself this is one of the most useful things I've 3D printed. It's unfortunate that it didn't work in your video, but I guess you can't win them all.😂
Understanding which popular prints are worth our time or not is, in my view, a high value video proposition. (One hour of Next Layer testing something bad is thousands of hours of pain saved across the viewers, one hour of Next Layer having fun is opening the door for thousand of hours of viewers sharing the fun). Looking forward for the follow-up.
Yep, I like this video format, for sure. I get a lot of free filament, and I'm working on a recycler... so I'm happy to be the guinea pig for you guys :)
I'd watch another video on 3D printed tools. One trick I use with threads (or similar) is baking soda and water. Get the thread wet. Sprinkle a little baking soda on the wetness to form a paste. Try threading it together like cutting threads - forward a little then back it off and try again. The baking soda acts like a polishing grit and it seems to leave a film that is a little slippery. Rinse the parts clean when the threads are working better. There's my 2 cents worth of advice related to 3D printed threads.
I want to expound what @rodrigob said. Printer reviews are great but I'm pretty much set on which brand I trust. Reviewing print designs, however, is really informative and interesting. Reviewing tools also gives a great justification for 3D printing in general. Explaining how you adjusted some designs to make them work is also useful for viewers. I think this would be a great niche for you and great content for viewers/followers.
Yes! I have several prints I’ve held off on because we don’t know how to “remix” them yet. Just last night I was looking at soda can dispensers, but none would fit my mini fridge AND American sized cans.
I noticed in a bunch of your bambu lab timelapses you have parts fail from random threads flying off of it from the infill. I have found that this is from having my max flowrate set too high. At high speeds the plastic rather than flowing out to the sides seems to expand and bunch up behind the toolpath of the nozzle meaning when the nozzle comes back it smacks them out of place, so this could also just be infill print speed too high. I'm guessing that the nozzle tip is just too narrow on BL printers to really properly spread the plastic out. This drove me nuts because I get insane results on most flowrate test prints, up to 20mm3/s with PETG, but in reality i find that real prints fail often at this speed. As soon as i set my flowrate down to 15mm3/s everything prints perfectly i haven't had a problem since for the past 200 print hours. For dimensional accuracy I found that inner/outer/inner works best. This means the inner-most wall prints first, then the outer wall, then the 'infill' walls get printed. This has been super accurate for me. I also generally recommend when printing long tall objects to just split it up into multiple prints. It's just too risky to print them at the same time. Don't bother respooling cardboard spools. Just put electrical tape on the edges. I've had zero failures in my AMS with that hack.
Some cardboard spools come with burnished edges to address this problem. Some brands that do this actually work reliably out of the box in the AMS, aside from occasional issues with having to add weight when the spool is low on filament.
Yea, all my elegoo rapid petg is coming with sealed cardboard edges. Works great til it's too light. Just be sure the spool is round if amazon sent it. I had 1 completely birdsnest itself cause the spool was squished and jumping in the ams.
Bambu printers are VERY widely known to have issues with tall prints, especially thin ones....I never trust my Bambu on any kind of tall print. Its why i bought a Flashforge 5M
Hey, awesome tip. I have to try that. I'm new to 3d Printing. I was getting okay print results with "normal" rate print speed, but I would often have issues with buildup on the print nozzle. Silent mode worked almost flawlessly. Sport and Insane modes .... always resulted in spaghetti. I've probably gone through 20 KG of PETG filament, so I'm still learning. But I do appreciate the knowledge. Again Thank you.
@@jamesperreault6800 if you have nozzle build up lower your flow rate/extrusion multiplier by 0.01 each print until it doesn't happen anymore. I have mine set to about 0.94 and I get zero buildup and isn't under extruded at all.
Anything with threads should be printed horizontally. If you don’t like supports, then just drop a few mm of the threads under the build plate and it will work just fine. Think about it: tightening a bolt stretches it. If you print vertically, that means the force is pulling the layers apart.
@@TheOfficialOriginalChad The other idea is to actually make not a few mm below the bed but fully design the bolts to be flat for around 1/3 of their diameter. They work really well at least for me, being using them for a while now and none of them broke, though I'm also using a pretty deeply cut threads.
another idea for reenforcing is 3d printing threads is using threaded rod. the threaded rod is just screwed into the center. it acts like to metal center of the plastic. for something like the vice it would be better to mount a nut and use larger threaded rod. it can be useful to 3d print 10mm custom pitch threads. the screw a M4 shaft to hold it together.
I'm not sure I understand the "drop a few mm of the threads under the build plate". Do you mean taking a horizontal bolt, printing so the threads (inserting an object in it) would be parralel to the build plate, and printing 2 halves, each of which sit flat on the build plate? Then glueing them together?
@@voltdriver no, the threads should be perpendicular(ish) to the build plate, so the bolt is laying down. Then cut the bottom few millimeters off of the bolt so there’s more contact area on the first layer. Bolt before: O Bolt after: Ω
I'm always most excited to see your new videos come out because they're actually useful! Not just another sponsored review video. Testing things like tools, filaments, print settings, and other things that we makers use every day and wonder if there's something better we could be using, or want to know if something is actually worth getting without having to waste the money buying a bad product. Keep doing what you're doing!
A lot of you guys need to learn the techniques the 3D printed firearms makers use and apply them to your mechanical projects for strength and durability regardless of your opinions on home made firearms. Also cardboard spools for high heat filaments are a GOOD thing as it means you can dry them at higher temps that most of the polymer spools can’t withstand.
Do you have any insight into what techniques they use? I've seen quite a bit of content but I only ever see videos on use and durability, not on the fabrication. I haven't done a lot of research though, hoping you can shorten that process lol. Thanks
I base most of my printing related choices (which printer I got, which filaments and which settings I use) on recommendations from the 3D2A people. If they trust the materials and settings they use to withstand all the stress that a gun has to endure, then those settings will definitely allow me to print a robust little watering can or bird house.
@@gloriousapplebees being super mindful of printing orientation, annealing, and knowing when to use metal hardware are pretty key for some applications
unless the glue holding the cardboard spool together lets go because of the heat in a dehydrator. Not fun I tell you, managed to respool most of it but what a pita, now I put a clamp on my cardboard spools to make sure they stay together in the dehydrator.
Gotta be honest... I question whether some of these print/tool fails are user error. I've used the Pastamatic Filament Spool Winder for months and it still works great. Super clever design and super reliable. And that's with PLA+. If I have to reprint it at some point, I'll do the gears in nylon. But no issues yet. I'm also not sure why you thought an impact driver would be the tool to use for the respooler. But at least you're honest about your mistakes! I really appreciate that!
Yes, I have to concur. There are several what I consider to be basic mistakes I saw. There's no reason to ever print out a screw vertically as it considerably weakens the strength of the threads. Hacking together parts by drilling them and using soldering irons certainly doesn't seem like the stuff of smart reviews. Why not just reprint it with an adjustment? I also have the pastamatic and have used it dozens of times without issue. It just works. You might try that. I also might mention that when I'm printing out other people's projects that have fine tolerances, I typically try and use Bambu filament as the printer is tuned specifically for the filament. Furthermore, PLA is just fine if you're not going to have it outdoors and you just need a strong rigid tool.
This dude printed a device powered by power tools with some fufu glitter PLA and then blamed it breaking on the engineers. This was a really poor review of a tool I would like to know more about being a pastamatic user myself
it was only there for a frame but in the video he mentions that he got it working i do think ease of access is part of whether or not a print is worth someone's time if you have the know how to trouble shoot a print then you could probably design and fix a lot of these as well
Yeah, I just added this guy to the block list, immature commentary with fluff vids and lack of any skills and/or intelligence are a losing formula in my opinion.
I have printed the V spooler in only ABS+ followed the print instruction, and also follow the instructions of use. It just works GREAT, never had a single problem with the respooler, at any moment, and yes I do use it often. IMO the absolute best respooling system out there so far. It took me more than an hour to collect if fully and was no hazzle, with the great in dept instruction. Use some grease for the gears and you are all good. Just dont run it too fast with the electric screwdriver, when respooling. Have fun with your new V Spooler
I saw the parts of the pastamatic spooler in your filament recycle bin. Mine has worked flawlessly since I printed and assembled it last year. I eventually added the 3kg spool optional remix and mounted it to a piece of scrap wood. The only addition I'm going to add is a TPU brake with adjustable tension for the source spool. I wonder what made you toss yours out?
I print a lot with PETG, and the stringing is something you get used to. Its easy enough to clean up, however, just run a low temperature lighter, like a bic, over the part quickly. All the strings will either fall off or curl up right next to the part, where a deburring tool can pop em off easily
Please do more of these types of videos!! We are always looking for useful printed items to print for woodworking, farm stuff, sewing, organizing, and various other projects.
Havent gotten past the first tool, which was the flexible vacuum hose. However, when I saw your foot mount to flat mount to to table with weight, I immediately noticed you could syphon off of the vacuum line and haf the foot "suck" its self down to a table, so long as its wood, plastic, metal, etc.
This is a great video, thank you! I you want to hear my 2 cents; I have a good experience of soaking petg in car oil over night (after printing of course) when I use it for moving parts. I always try to print load bearing pins horizontally for strength but this can be hard with some models when the pin is attached and/or may require support for the rest of the part.
Regardless V-Roller, print plastic insert ("Handle-to-Drill Adaptor (Strong)", see files) for your drill. It doesnt strip anything. I also stripped like 5 of drill atachments before realizing metal on plastic doesnt work.. Print "Quiet Roller for V-Spooler" - it's a bottom rollers with TPU rings, so it makes it quiter
Flexible Hose: What about adding 4 magnets into the base, that way you don't have to weigh it down as much, it'll stay stable, and you don't have to clamp it to a table, you can use any magnetic surface.
Have you looked into making a filament dry box? I store all my filament in a sealed container with desiccant. Tons of really good ones out there using cereal containers and running a PTFE tube right out of them so the filament never leaves the "dry" space.
I use a diamond back nozzle and i realized thats a really bad nozzle to use for PETG because it has so much surface area to contact the PETG while it's being extruded onto the print. It causes the petg to grip the nozzle, drag along the print and curl up the back side of the nozzle. A nozzle with a very thin tip like a standard V6 brass nozzle would be more ideal. PETG doesn't like to stick to itself when there is a source of heat so it is best not to give it an easy heat source to collect on. It's also really bad at bed adhesion on corners which can come off the bed and snag your extruder causing layer shifts. It's best to combat this by using the "do not cross perimeters" option so you nozzle can't snag the edge of the print amd use large brims on the corners.
This happened to me yesterday..... took two hours to print a rose shaped ring box with a 3D printed spring in it... you had to pause the print midway thru and install the spring which had already been printed ... the instructions had no indication as to which direction the spring was supposed to go, even though you could clearly see one side had a curve and one side did not... there were no photos of it, and there was nothing in the written description about it other than the need for a Pause. But after printing it, the spring worldnt compress, because the part was backwards. And with the pause midway thru the print, it was sealed in,..... so, I had to spend More filament AND , 2 hours EXTRA to get a working model and had to trash the first one completely
I printed a puller tool from Makerworld but the thread on the main screw did not have a start which made screwing it in to the frame impossible, the designer claimed he had no issues screwing it in, I took a closer look at the design, I was right there is no way this will work. There is no photograph of the printed tool which normally puts me off printing the file, however I could not find a puller tool anywhere else and so I took a chance. I asked the designer to post the photo of his printed puller that he claimed the bolt screwed in, as expected no photo was uploaded!
Using a drill for the filament re-spooler is NUTS. Yes, that's an option, but I would argue it's a bad one. Drills are powerful and fast. Any friction created by bad tolerances or the layers in the print, rubbing on other layers, is going to create heat. Obviously, heat is the death of plastic. If it doesn't melt it, it will make it brittle. Go nice and slow, you won't tear up your rods or screw up her holes nearly as much. ;) Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast! Also, use plenty of lubrication. ;)))))) Actually, any bit of a 3d print that interacts with another print, should be lubricated. Sanding the mating surface of the print will help to smooth out the first layer, too! It's a lot of post-processing... but like any project, prep work is the key to success!
I've had more luck printing long objects when i print them one at a time, since the print head doesn't have to jump from one to another. That prevents it from bumping stuff and knocking them over. Maybe that makes some of these prints worth it to try again.
I shouldn't be laughing so hard at your innuendo jokes, but I am! Seriously however, another excellent video. I have not watch one yet on your channel that has not be informative and enjoyable to watch. Excellent work, delivery, and selection of topics. Keep up the outstanding work.
The tabletop one - if you add a TPU gasket you could have small holes let out into the base, to steal part of the suction power to suck itself down rather than relying on weight alone.
3:02 you could use that articulating arm for other devices like lights or add clamps like mechanical fingers for soldering, but larger so it isn’t all in the way
Personally made that solder extruder, and luckly for me it works without any issues after printing everything once. Osed it also only once, but it's soooo much better than handling too close to hot solder with bare hands
In my still short experience in 3D printing, and with a background in mechanical engineering, I feel like most of the free designs out there are just like "this is a great idea, let's do it", but then it's never tested or never revised after testing.
I printed the Solder Scroll, and it worked flawlessly for me on the first attempt. I'm sorry it didn't work out for you, but it was game changer for this novice solderer.
Great reviews and format. I too have waisted a lot of time and filament on things that looked like a good idea. One of my friends just waisted a bunch of time and filament on one of the “other” filament spoilers. Thanks.
Its neat to see that i wasnt the only one that had issues with the solder spool. i JUST got done with the v-spooler print in all ABS when i watched this video.. so good to know that i am on the right path, nice video!
THAT is the video series I was waiting for. I always find myself lost scrolling through printables or thingiverses tool section looking at these models wondering if I have the 2-3 kg of filament to waste if its a pile of. Now I know which is good or which to avoid (or not avoid but print with care). Thank you! I'm looking forward for ep. 2 ;)
For the respooler: well, I just use a battery-drill, a steel rod and a cap that I printed with an M8 bolt inside to turn the 'new' spool with. the old spool over a steel pin or bolt in a vice and just spool. Filament likes to go to the lower part on the spool and thus gets evenly distributed automatically when not turning way too fast. I have used at least 100 spools this way. But mostly, I use refillament directly so I don't need to respool that many spools.
Great video, and thanks for testing these so that we don’t have to. One thing that struck me in watching it was that some of the challenges came from having to print tall cylinders such as threaded shafts where the contact area on the build plate is small relative to the volume of the part. When Multiboard came out I realised that so many designs could benefit from the thread design used there which flattens two sides to enable printing the long axis parallel to the build plate. For some of these prints (like the vise) a similar approach would make them easier to print and more durable, and the seam placement can be on a non-contact surface.
Definitely would love to see another video like this! Been looking at spoolers recently and the V roller was on my list! It’s now on my next took to print! 🔥
Great vid! I stumbled across your channel and loved how well you explain things so I decided to subscribe. Fairly new to the world of 3d printing and have printed everything so far with PLA. In your videos, you mention using various types (petg, abs, etc). Would it be possible (if you haven't done so already) to do a video on which filament should be used for which application scenarios? Thanks!
I love this format! Thanks for testing these out for us so we don't have to waste kg's of filament on something trash. Saves a lot of time and money. Thank you!
Preemptive warning about the "helping hands" models: The tolerance issue you had with the vacuum tube pieces scales _exponentially_ as those pieces get smaller.
About Sovol printer. I bought the SV06 and after a few replaced parts, with heated bed included, warranty has ended just after the main board started "forgetting" firmware. It's good as a base for upgrades, but otherwise expect issues.
I printed the flexi hose in 100mm and PETG and it is too slippery. I reinforced it with printed hose clamps to make it work and adjustable. I recommend printing them with fuzzy skin. This introduces a lot of friction, but with every move, we have a little bit of abrasion and the sides will begin to smooth out.
Love the badge ratings! It would be great to have a list of these favourite functional prints on your website. Even a simple Notion integration would do the trick. Happy to help with that if you want!
Thanks for a great video. I printed a similar vice, but I used a tap and die to remove the seam for the screws, and used alot of lube. Mine works great, but I did also use a different design, so might have also just be that. Steel screws would be better though, but its not always easy for someone to cut them to an exact size without a.... vice... This video format can be a great series. Looking forward to the next video for functional 3dprinting models!
As someone who frequently uses helping hands for soldering, I wouldn't recommend 3D printing one. You're really going to want arms with the strength that a metal core provides.
the big selling point of the LTT screwdriver is the ratcheting mechanism, a 3d printed variant just wont come close. Theres a reason why development took years lol
With the filament spooler if you aren't going to put in some kind of bearing you will inevitably wear through anywhere that's spinning. It's just a question of time. Even bearings will eventually wear out, although it's not likely with non commercial/industrial use and decent bearings. You could try something like making bushings as wear parts to insert too. Ideally out of a slick plastic. Typically those would be made out of uhmw, which you aren't going to get for 3d printing. However, that's just a special formula of PE, so you could try hdpe if you have some unless you have something else you would prefer. Another option is good old fashioned lubrication. A little bit of white lithium grease can go a long ways. Good luck!
Thanks for the video. I've seen a few videos where the filament respooling tools experience failures due to their interface with the drill/driver used to operate them. It seems like a model that has an affixed motor might hold up better, as well as can be operated more slowly. Friction wear and heat seem to be the failing points on the models.
I hear fuzzy skin is good for handle grip, and that would hide some of the model imperfections. But I've brought screwdrivers like that in any old hardware store for cheap so really wouldn't bother printing. Handy expansion parts for it, sure. But I think it's a good thing the main parts are injection cast or metal for strength too. I make my models in blender, and I COULD share the blender files if people want to export them at a higher subdiv level
Great video. I'm new to 3D printing but have been modeling things off and on for 10 years. I love seeing not only if these tools failed but how so I can better prototype my own.
Have you used the featherboard? Does it do what it says on the tin properly? Does it shatter after one use? You haven't really shown using it while ripping wood
Slant 3d has an excellent video about printing things like threads vertically like you did with the vice. The weakest part of 3d parts is the layer lines so for strength (like with a vice) you need to print horizontally (or slanted, that's their thing). He came up with a clever trick to print a screw horizontally, slice off the side lengthwise to provide a flat side to lie on the bed. The screw will still do it's thing and be much stronger.
I have had one or two prints that turned out hard to turn, so when I have this problem I turn to a lubricant I use to lub printers. I use lithium grease, it seems to do the trick. It never did any damage to the printers I repaired. For plastic tools it seems to work so far
Great video! Big fan of project recommendations (or "stay away from" recs). You mentioned PTFE Lubricant in the video. What is that? I've just been using silicon lubricant for parts that need a little more slide.
Well they sre two complety different lubricants ptfe have solid particles mixed in a fluid and silicone lubricants are silicone fluids. Making them withstand difference pressures, chemical amd so on. One specific thing to note silicone are very hard to get rid of and spreads/easily contaminate other surfaces. A lot if indutries ban silicone all together since it repells paint.
I switched to a Pastamatic roller and aside from needing a few extra pieces (clips to hold down, different spool holder bar, some shims) I have run through so many rolls
If you are printing PETG with any bambu printer you need to slow down the print speed. Their default speed is way too high and will cause issues like poor layer adhesion and the stringing you are seeing. 75mm/s is about as fast as you want to go with that material.
Are Bambu profiles same or similar to Orca ones? The PETG profile in Orca is completely nuts with part cooling fan, not surprising things fall apart. And yes the material is weird and has a limit to how fast it wants to be pushed before it behaves oddly as well.
I made the fillament spooler and have been very happy with it, the noise problem i fixed by putting tape around the bottom rollers to "cushion" them. I also printed it in petg so that it holds up better though i only run my drill at about half speed while im transfering fillament, as ive had too many fillamenys snap at full speed on other respoolers and it becomes a nightmare.
Do you mind tinkering? Creality K series has potential but requires more from the user, same for most "budget" printers on the market. Bambu is more plug and play if you just want it to work, but you pay a premium for that. It's a decision between if 3d printers are your hobby (Creality) or you are looking to support a hobby with a 3d printer as a tool/appliance (Bambu).
@@NiSE_Rafter I'm willing to put in the hours as I have in building my Voron V0.1 and rebuilding and upgrading my Ender a bunch of times, if it means I can get similar performance out of a printer whose software isn't completely locked down (Bambu even encrypting their log dumps is really weird IMO)
@@calinnilie Personally I'd get the K2 Plus then (Klipper plays a big factor here), but only after it's been properly released and evaluated by the public. The K1 had some early issues hence the K1c coming so soon after and I wouldn't be surprised if the full K2 setup had a few hiccups at launch too. Edit: ya know what seeing that early bird discount it might be worth it to say fk it and get it on discount lol maybe I'll join you
I had so many attempts at finding the right part online, I always design my own because at least it'll do exactly what I want it to. It's worth designing every time.
It’s fascinating that you actually had a backstory for the Vroller, I thought it was a solution looking for a problem. Kind of wild that you can damage a cardboard spool when I go to recycle them they usually have some resistance turning off the sides
I live at Yokneam, Israel and have 0 issues with PETG. I am using a modified Artillery SW X1. ASA on the other hand. required some additional modifications to my printer.
I’ve printed two of the solder scrolls so far. One on my modified Ender 3 V2, and another more recently on my upgraded FYSETC Prusa MK3S clone (by upgraded I mean I swapped out parts like the rods, bearings, and hot end, among other parts, for genuine ones from Prusa). Came out better quality on the Prusa, but the one I printed on my Ender 3 V2 works very well too
For the V-spooler, I just finished mine, and I agree about the center bore. It would be better to add a run-away bar on the top spool (when my spools start to get to the end, they tend to want to run off of the spool if it goes too fast). Also, I think a re-design of the screwdriver version, to add a replaceable mount would allow for less re-assembly, and only having to replace the small mount itself. Yes, mine is also noisy as hell...
I've been wondering lately about adding a wipe tower to tall, thin prints, to give the layer time to cool before going over it again. I think it would also help with overextrusion bulges.
Loved it. Really good advice. I printed the V-spooler In Petg and PC. So far so good. Any thoughts on the various printable Heat-Insert Press models out there?? The more reliable looking models require some parts, would be good to get some idea of the pros and cons of the best models. Ans also,...are they worth it at all?
I’m torn. I love the channel and have been subscribed for a while. But he said if we subscribe there will be less dirty jokes. But I like the dirty jokes. So now I don’t know what to do.
I rarely comment on RUclips (mainly because I tend to watch on a smart TV) but anyhow, thank you so much for emphasising the usefulness of uploading the .STEP files! So many times I've gone to the files section and just gone... oh man! Sometimes, a remix of a file that had step files were uploaded as .stl's, what is this? Anyway, once we get over that, maybe we can then look at broken .step files, just when you think, yes, a .step, you upload it to OnShape and go... nooooo... I need to fix it first! Awesome content, thanks!
You should touch more on the pick tools iv used my circuit set up for post processing and mostly scraping petg off the hot end I am a mechanic so I have alot of "O" ring picks different shapes and sizes helped out quite a bit and can be much cheaper than buying the circuit branded picks! Also a good precision file kit should be a must as well!! Everyones sleeping on the mini files for post processing! 😴 Thank you for all your work we appreciate your videos keep it up 🤙
I really appreciate the transparency when it comes to the actual usefulness of these prints. I've gotten SO excited to print different tools or just fun things and then it turns out they just don't work properly and that's such a bummer. But like you said, no disrespect to the creators and designers!!! I can just BARELY split a file in half, let alone make something from scratch. edit: love the cut-aways to you editing the uh... puns hehe
Regarding the respooler. Never had an issue with the pastamatic. You just have to follow the print instructions carefully regarding infill and walls. Also dont go ham. Go slow with the driver...never broke anything
My issue with the pastamatic was that the TPU flaps were not enough to stop the spool from continuing to spin if you stop with the drill.... This one, when you stop, it stops, because it's direclty driving the master spool.
@@thenextlayer Ah yes i understand. I also have the tpu flaps but they dont do much. I just go slower with the drill when i see the spool almost being empty to combat this.
I’ve actually printed a dummy version of the LTT screwdriver (I think it was a month before the ratchet version was released) the reason why the model has so many artifacts is because it’s a direct 3d scan of the screwdriver, and it’s _extremely_ tedious to convert scan meshes into step files. As for the fitment and ratcheting, yeah I think that’s on the designer, lol
Thanks for the video, subscribed. I just wanted to say using a glittery show filament on the vspooler, a device that is powered with power tools rather than using a performance grade polymer is absurd and really a hard break, literally, for the vspooler in this review. I would be interested in seeing a video breakdown and tested performance review of the popular respooler's with performance grade plastics. vSpooler Vs pastamatic with the upgrades, the pastamatic on it's own is pretty janky but once placed on a board with appropriate clamps and an upgraded drive train it works quite well. This is a tool I use heavily and it would be useful to know the strengths and weaknesses of each design with actually testing them.
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Thanks for watching, friend! I'd love to hear what you thought of this video?
Please less innuendo, otherwise great!
Your impact started smoking because it is a brushed tool, you should always add a bit more and go for the brushless version
Agreed with the less innuendos. I'm not offended by them but I think they distract from the video with the quantity that were included and the asides that pointed them out. If you are going to make an innuendo, it should just be left to stand on its own otherwise it feels very forced and unnatural.
Also, not digging the haircut. I think you need to go shorter on the top as you have a taller ratio face and the taller hair doesn't balance it out.
I'm curious what issues you ran into with the pastamatic. I've used it before and it has seemed to be flawless.
I enjoyed the video, I always find myself remixing printable vices so I can use steel threaded rod in place of printable threads.
Hi! I am the designer of the Solder Scroll. Thanks for featuring my design! The tolerances should work with most well-tuned printers. Removing the seam with a small file on the inside of the gears should help as well. Otherwise increase the gear size with a few percent. Hope that helps!
Thanks for the info. After some harsh rubbing (giggity), I got it working much better :)
I don't want to come off negatively, but what is the purpose of the Solder Scroll?
From the introduction in the video, it first sounded like it was supposed to free up a hand, but upon closer inspection, that doesn't seem to be the case, so what's the advantage over just holding the solder between your fingers? If anything, holding the solder directly only requires two fingers, leaving three for holding wires/components/board in place.
Printed your model in PLA on bambulabs P1S
Works great!
I printed your design 3 times in PLA and PETG. I had to use a drill to get the hole size correct for the gears. But after that it works great.
I don't usually comment on RUclips or give reviews, but I have to say that I printed your model today on my P1S, and it worked perfectly on the first try! (No lubricant applied)
I actually told myself this is one of the most useful things I've 3D printed. It's unfortunate that it didn't work in your video, but I guess you can't win them all.😂
Understanding which popular prints are worth our time or not is, in my view, a high value video proposition.
(One hour of Next Layer testing something bad is thousands of hours of pain saved across the viewers, one hour of Next Layer having fun is opening the door for thousand of hours of viewers sharing the fun).
Looking forward for the follow-up.
Yep, I like this video format, for sure. I get a lot of free filament, and I'm working on a recycler... so I'm happy to be the guinea pig for you guys :)
I agree. Reviews on what is / is not ready for prime time saves your audience lots of wasted time and filament.
Totally agree, and the eloquent setup at the start clarifying that its not a slam but a true user experience critique
Couldn't agree more. I love this format and topic.
Agree. I love this format
I'd watch another video on 3D printed tools. One trick I use with threads (or similar) is baking soda and water. Get the thread wet. Sprinkle a little baking soda on the wetness to form a paste. Try threading it together like cutting threads - forward a little then back it off and try again. The baking soda acts like a polishing grit and it seems to leave a film that is a little slippery. Rinse the parts clean when the threads are working better. There's my 2 cents worth of advice related to 3D printed threads.
Good one. Will try this.
@@rickmontzka7506 this is brilliant.
Thanks for the tip!
I want to expound what @rodrigob said. Printer reviews are great but I'm pretty much set on which brand I trust. Reviewing print designs, however, is really informative and interesting. Reviewing tools also gives a great justification for 3D printing in general. Explaining how you adjusted some designs to make them work is also useful for viewers. I think this would be a great niche for you and great content for viewers/followers.
Hey, thanks for the awesome comment! I'm thrilled you enjoyed my content. I'll definitely look into exploring print designs and tools more. Cheers!
Yes! I have several prints I’ve held off on because we don’t know how to “remix” them yet. Just last night I was looking at soda can dispensers, but none would fit my mini fridge AND American sized cans.
I noticed in a bunch of your bambu lab timelapses you have parts fail from random threads flying off of it from the infill. I have found that this is from having my max flowrate set too high. At high speeds the plastic rather than flowing out to the sides seems to expand and bunch up behind the toolpath of the nozzle meaning when the nozzle comes back it smacks them out of place, so this could also just be infill print speed too high. I'm guessing that the nozzle tip is just too narrow on BL printers to really properly spread the plastic out. This drove me nuts because I get insane results on most flowrate test prints, up to 20mm3/s with PETG, but in reality i find that real prints fail often at this speed. As soon as i set my flowrate down to 15mm3/s everything prints perfectly i haven't had a problem since for the past 200 print hours.
For dimensional accuracy I found that inner/outer/inner works best. This means the inner-most wall prints first, then the outer wall, then the 'infill' walls get printed. This has been super accurate for me.
I also generally recommend when printing long tall objects to just split it up into multiple prints. It's just too risky to print them at the same time.
Don't bother respooling cardboard spools. Just put electrical tape on the edges. I've had zero failures in my AMS with that hack.
Some cardboard spools come with burnished edges to address this problem. Some brands that do this actually work reliably out of the box in the AMS, aside from occasional issues with having to add weight when the spool is low on filament.
Yea, all my elegoo rapid petg is coming with sealed cardboard edges. Works great til it's too light. Just be sure the spool is round if amazon sent it. I had 1 completely birdsnest itself cause the spool was squished and jumping in the ams.
Bambu printers are VERY widely known to have issues with tall prints, especially thin ones....I never trust my Bambu on any kind of tall print. Its why i bought a Flashforge 5M
Hey, awesome tip. I have to try that. I'm new to 3d Printing. I was getting okay print results with "normal" rate print speed, but I would often have issues with buildup on the print nozzle. Silent mode worked almost flawlessly. Sport and Insane modes .... always resulted in spaghetti. I've probably gone through 20 KG of PETG filament, so I'm still learning. But I do appreciate the knowledge. Again Thank you.
@@jamesperreault6800 if you have nozzle build up lower your flow rate/extrusion multiplier by 0.01 each print until it doesn't happen anymore. I have mine set to about 0.94 and I get zero buildup and isn't under extruded at all.
Anything with threads should be printed horizontally. If you don’t like supports, then just drop a few mm of the threads under the build plate and it will work just fine.
Think about it: tightening a bolt stretches it. If you print vertically, that means the force is pulling the layers apart.
@@TheOfficialOriginalChad The other idea is to actually make not a few mm below the bed but fully design the bolts to be flat for around 1/3 of their diameter. They work really well at least for me, being using them for a while now and none of them broke, though I'm also using a pretty deeply cut threads.
@@the_void856 agreed, but I’m talking about printing, not designing.
another idea for reenforcing is 3d printing threads is using threaded rod. the threaded rod is just screwed into the center. it acts like to metal center of the plastic. for something like the vice it would be better to mount a nut and use larger threaded rod. it can be useful to 3d print 10mm custom pitch threads. the screw a M4 shaft to hold it together.
I'm not sure I understand the "drop a few mm of the threads under the build plate". Do you mean taking a horizontal bolt, printing so the threads (inserting an object in it) would be parralel to the build plate, and printing 2 halves, each of which sit flat on the build plate? Then glueing them together?
@@voltdriver no, the threads should be perpendicular(ish) to the build plate, so the bolt is laying down. Then cut the bottom few millimeters off of the bolt so there’s more contact area on the first layer.
Bolt before: O
Bolt after: Ω
I'm always most excited to see your new videos come out because they're actually useful! Not just another sponsored review video. Testing things like tools, filaments, print settings, and other things that we makers use every day and wonder if there's something better we could be using, or want to know if something is actually worth getting without having to waste the money buying a bad product. Keep doing what you're doing!
A lot of you guys need to learn the techniques the 3D printed firearms makers use and apply them to your mechanical projects for strength and durability regardless of your opinions on home made firearms. Also cardboard spools for high heat filaments are a GOOD thing as it means you can dry them at higher temps that most of the polymer spools can’t withstand.
Good points.
Do you have any insight into what techniques they use? I've seen quite a bit of content but I only ever see videos on use and durability, not on the fabrication. I haven't done a lot of research though, hoping you can shorten that process lol. Thanks
I base most of my printing related choices (which printer I got, which filaments and which settings I use) on recommendations from the 3D2A people.
If they trust the materials and settings they use to withstand all the stress that a gun has to endure, then those settings will definitely allow me to print a robust little watering can or bird house.
@@gloriousapplebees being super mindful of printing orientation, annealing, and knowing when to use metal hardware are pretty key for some applications
unless the glue holding the cardboard spool together lets go because of the heat in a dehydrator. Not fun I tell you, managed to respool most of it but what a pita, now I put a clamp on my cardboard spools to make sure they stay together in the dehydrator.
Gotta be honest... I question whether some of these print/tool fails are user error. I've used the Pastamatic Filament Spool Winder for months and it still works great. Super clever design and super reliable. And that's with PLA+. If I have to reprint it at some point, I'll do the gears in nylon. But no issues yet.
I'm also not sure why you thought an impact driver would be the tool to use for the respooler. But at least you're honest about your mistakes! I really appreciate that!
Yes, I have to concur. There are several what I consider to be basic mistakes I saw. There's no reason to ever print out a screw vertically as it considerably weakens the strength of the threads. Hacking together parts by drilling them and using soldering irons certainly doesn't seem like the stuff of smart reviews. Why not just reprint it with an adjustment?
I also have the pastamatic and have used it dozens of times without issue. It just works. You might try that.
I also might mention that when I'm printing out other people's projects that have fine tolerances, I typically try and use Bambu filament as the printer is tuned specifically for the filament.
Furthermore, PLA is just fine if you're not going to have it outdoors and you just need a strong rigid tool.
This dude printed a device powered by power tools with some fufu glitter PLA and then blamed it breaking on the engineers. This was a really poor review of a tool I would like to know more about being a pastamatic user myself
it was only there for a frame but in the video he mentions that he got it working
i do think ease of access is part of whether or not a print is worth someone's time
if you have the know how to trouble shoot a print then you could probably design and fix a lot of these as well
Yeah, I just added this guy to the block list, immature commentary with fluff vids and lack of any skills and/or intelligence are a losing formula in my opinion.
I have printed the V spooler in only ABS+ followed the print instruction, and also follow the instructions of use. It just works GREAT, never had a single problem with the respooler, at any moment, and yes I do use it often. IMO the absolute best respooling system out there so far. It took me more than an hour to collect if fully and was no hazzle, with the great in dept instruction. Use some grease for the gears and you are all good. Just dont run it too fast with the electric screwdriver, when respooling. Have fun with your new V Spooler
Yep, it's great, but I beat the shit out of mine... need to rebuild and be more gentle.
I agree, it's the best Respooler on the interwebs!!! The electric motor remix is amazing as well
Do you think it would be durable enough in PETG?
@@zionbrock Yes absolutely, I just like to use ABS.
I saw the parts of the pastamatic spooler in your filament recycle bin. Mine has worked flawlessly since I printed and assembled it last year. I eventually added the 3kg spool optional remix and mounted it to a piece of scrap wood. The only addition I'm going to add is a TPU brake with adjustable tension for the source spool. I wonder what made you toss yours out?
You nailed it - the lack of a brake... spools spun out of control. Also, it was a hassle to move around without dis-assembling.
I print a lot with PETG, and the stringing is something you get used to. Its easy enough to clean up, however, just run a low temperature lighter, like a bic, over the part quickly. All the strings will either fall off or curl up right next to the part, where a deburring tool can pop em off easily
Please do more of these types of videos!! We are always looking for useful printed items to print for woodworking, farm stuff, sewing, organizing, and various other projects.
On it!!
Havent gotten past the first tool, which was the flexible vacuum hose. However, when I saw your foot mount to flat mount to to table with weight, I immediately noticed you could syphon off of the vacuum line and haf the foot "suck" its self down to a table, so long as its wood, plastic, metal, etc.
This is a great video, thank you! I you want to hear my 2 cents; I have a good experience of soaking petg in car oil over night (after printing of course) when I use it for moving parts. I always try to print load bearing pins horizontally for strength but this can be hard with some models when the pin is attached and/or may require support for the rest of the part.
Regardless V-Roller, print plastic insert ("Handle-to-Drill Adaptor (Strong)", see files) for your drill. It doesnt strip anything. I also stripped like 5 of drill atachments before realizing metal on plastic doesnt work..
Print "Quiet Roller for V-Spooler" - it's a bottom rollers with TPU rings, so it makes it quiter
The remix that adds the electric motors is amazing. Best Respooler I've printed.
Flexible Hose: What about adding 4 magnets into the base, that way you don't have to weigh it down as much, it'll stay stable, and you don't have to clamp it to a table, you can use any magnetic surface.
@@digitalsparky that's a good idea as long as you're using it on ferromagnetic surfaces. Weighted down it works nicely on aluminium and wood too...
5:05 I've given up on printing PETG until I can get a filament dryer because printing in 50%+ humidity is just not working
Have you looked into making a filament dry box? I store all my filament in a sealed container with desiccant. Tons of really good ones out there using cereal containers and running a PTFE tube right out of them so the filament never leaves the "dry" space.
Pfff imagine how I feel at 75%.
GOD HATES PETG.
What type of nozzle do you use?
I use a diamond back nozzle and i realized thats a really bad nozzle to use for PETG because it has so much surface area to contact the PETG while it's being extruded onto the print. It causes the petg to grip the nozzle, drag along the print and curl up the back side of the nozzle. A nozzle with a very thin tip like a standard V6 brass nozzle would be more ideal. PETG doesn't like to stick to itself when there is a source of heat so it is best not to give it an easy heat source to collect on. It's also really bad at bed adhesion on corners which can come off the bed and snag your extruder causing layer shifts. It's best to combat this by using the "do not cross perimeters" option so you nozzle can't snag the edge of the print amd use large brims on the corners.
Sunlu s4. It is wonderful and there is a deal with a free spool of pla going on right now
I enjoy this video. Inspires me to further my own designs and make sure they're easy to print and function smoothly.
"endlessly procrastinating input shaping on my Voron..." damn I feel so called out.
Outstanding video series, I'm really looking forward to more!
This happened to me yesterday..... took two hours to print a rose shaped ring box with a 3D printed spring in it... you had to pause the print midway thru and install the spring which had already been printed ... the instructions had no indication as to which direction the spring was supposed to go, even though you could clearly see one side had a curve and one side did not... there were no photos of it, and there was nothing in the written description about it other than the need for a Pause. But after printing it, the spring worldnt compress, because the part was backwards. And with the pause midway thru the print, it was sealed in,..... so, I had to spend More filament AND , 2 hours EXTRA to get a working model and had to trash the first one completely
I printed a puller tool from Makerworld but the thread on the main screw did not have a start which made screwing it in to the frame impossible, the designer claimed he had no issues screwing it in, I took a closer look at the design, I was right there is no way this will work.
There is no photograph of the printed tool which normally puts me off printing the file, however I could not find a puller tool anywhere else and so I took a chance.
I asked the designer to post the photo of his printed puller that he claimed the bolt screwed in, as expected no photo was uploaded!
Just file a chamfer onto it
It is a big clue if all they post is screen shots. I accept some screen shots to show details. but real is really better.
Using a drill for the filament re-spooler is NUTS. Yes, that's an option, but I would argue it's a bad one. Drills are powerful and fast. Any friction created by bad tolerances or the layers in the print, rubbing on other layers, is going to create heat. Obviously, heat is the death of plastic. If it doesn't melt it, it will make it brittle. Go nice and slow, you won't tear up your rods or screw up her holes nearly as much. ;) Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast!
Also, use plenty of lubrication. ;))))))
Actually, any bit of a 3d print that interacts with another print, should be lubricated. Sanding the mating surface of the print will help to smooth out the first layer, too!
It's a lot of post-processing... but like any project, prep work is the key to success!
I've had more luck printing long objects when i print them one at a time, since the print head doesn't have to jump from one to another. That prevents it from bumping stuff and knocking them over. Maybe that makes some of these prints worth it to try again.
I shouldn't be laughing so hard at your innuendo jokes, but I am! Seriously however, another excellent video. I have not watch one yet on your channel that has not be informative and enjoyable to watch. Excellent work, delivery, and selection of topics. Keep up the outstanding work.
Thank you so much! I'm glad you're enjoying the videos.
As I am just starting out into this "3D printing" world, I really appreciate the information that you have done. Great work, keep it up.
The tabletop one - if you add a TPU gasket you could have small holes let out into the base, to steal part of the suction power to suck itself down rather than relying on weight alone.
My solder scroll worked flawlessly.It depends on what filament you use, although the wheels should use andifferent type of gear.
3:02 you could use that articulating arm for other devices like lights or add clamps like mechanical fingers for soldering, but larger so it isn’t all in the way
Personally made that solder extruder, and luckly for me it works without any issues after printing everything once. Osed it also only once, but it's soooo much better than handling too close to hot solder with bare hands
I put a text title showing htat I did get it working after recording the video, and it does work now. Just took some time to break it in. Giggity.
@@thenextlayer oh, didn't see that text for some reason - good it works for you too :)
In my still short experience in 3D printing, and with a background in mechanical engineering, I feel like most of the free designs out there are just like "this is a great idea, let's do it", but then it's never tested or never revised after testing.
Great video, looking forward for the follow-up.
Hi at 0:56 what is the glossy built plate on the X1C? Does it need glue? Does it give glass like bottom finish? Thanks.
Https://jle.vi/whambam PEX
Great video. Really interested in the filament respooler. Please do more of this type of format.
Thanks, will do!
Great video, thanks for printing and showing us these tools. I will definitely print a few. Keep producing and I will keep watching. Thanks again.
I printed the Solder Scroll, and it worked flawlessly for me on the first attempt. I'm sorry it didn't work out for you, but it was game changer for this novice solderer.
Got mine working with some abuse!!
Great reviews and format. I too have waisted a lot of time and filament on things that looked like a good idea. One of my friends just waisted a bunch of time and filament on one of the “other” filament spoilers. Thanks.
Its neat to see that i wasnt the only one that had issues with the solder spool. i JUST got done with the v-spooler print in all ABS when i watched this video.. so good to know that i am on the right path, nice video!
THAT is the video series I was waiting for. I always find myself lost scrolling through printables or thingiverses tool section looking at these models wondering if I have the 2-3 kg of filament to waste if its a pile of. Now I know which is good or which to avoid (or not avoid but print with care). Thank you! I'm looking forward for ep. 2 ;)
BOOM, I'm happy to have a "series" I can do once a month or once a quarter.
For the respooler: well, I just use a battery-drill, a steel rod and a cap that I printed with an M8 bolt inside to turn the 'new' spool with. the old spool over a steel pin or bolt in a vice and just spool. Filament likes to go to the lower part on the spool and thus gets evenly distributed automatically when not turning way too fast. I have used at least 100 spools this way.
But mostly, I use refillament directly so I don't need to respool that many spools.
Great video, and thanks for testing these so that we don’t have to. One thing that struck me in watching it was that some of the challenges came from having to print tall cylinders such as threaded shafts where the contact area on the build plate is small relative to the volume of the part. When Multiboard came out I realised that so many designs could benefit from the thread design used there which flattens two sides to enable printing the long axis parallel to the build plate. For some of these prints (like the vise) a similar approach would make them easier to print and more durable, and the seam placement can be on a non-contact surface.
Definitely would love to see another video like this!
Been looking at spoolers recently and the V roller was on my list! It’s now on my next took to print! 🔥
Looks like I'll do another, people seem to really like it!
Great vid! I stumbled across your channel and loved how well you explain things so I decided to subscribe. Fairly new to the world of 3d printing and have printed everything so far with PLA. In your videos, you mention using various types (petg, abs, etc). Would it be possible (if you haven't done so already) to do a video on which filament should be used for which application scenarios? Thanks!
I love this format! Thanks for testing these out for us so we don't have to waste kg's of filament on something trash. Saves a lot of time and money. Thank you!
Preemptive warning about the "helping hands" models: The tolerance issue you had with the vacuum tube pieces scales _exponentially_ as those pieces get smaller.
About Sovol printer. I bought the SV06 and after a few replaced parts, with heated bed included, warranty has ended just after the main board started "forgetting" firmware. It's good as a base for upgrades, but otherwise expect issues.
I printed the flexi hose in 100mm and PETG and it is too slippery. I reinforced it with printed hose clamps to make it work and adjustable. I recommend printing them with fuzzy skin. This introduces a lot of friction, but with every move, we have a little bit of abrasion and the sides will begin to smooth out.
Love the badge ratings! It would be great to have a list of these favourite functional prints on your website. Even a simple Notion integration would do the trick. Happy to help with that if you want!
Nice video, thank you. Looking forward to part two.
More to come!
Thanks for a great video. I printed a similar vice, but I used a tap and die to remove the seam for the screws, and used alot of lube. Mine works great, but I did also use a different design, so might have also just be that. Steel screws would be better though, but its not always easy for someone to cut them to an exact size without a.... vice...
This video format can be a great series. Looking forward to the next video for functional 3dprinting models!
As someone who frequently uses helping hands for soldering, I wouldn't recommend 3D printing one. You're really going to want arms with the strength that a metal core provides.
Loved the video! Congrats! But can you help me? 0:43 what 3d printable chest is this? Can someone tell me? You print the parts and assemble the chest?
U enjot this format, definitely helps in deciding on whether or not you should try print something out
the big selling point of the LTT screwdriver is the ratcheting mechanism, a 3d printed variant just wont come close. Theres a reason why development took years lol
Bro is so printer-brained, he called pencil lead "filament"
I use the solder scroll quite a bit. I used a generic PETG and it works great for me. Love the format of this video.
With the filament spooler if you aren't going to put in some kind of bearing you will inevitably wear through anywhere that's spinning. It's just a question of time. Even bearings will eventually wear out, although it's not likely with non commercial/industrial use and decent bearings.
You could try something like making bushings as wear parts to insert too. Ideally out of a slick plastic. Typically those would be made out of uhmw, which you aren't going to get for 3d printing. However, that's just a special formula of PE, so you could try hdpe if you have some unless you have something else you would prefer.
Another option is good old fashioned lubrication. A little bit of white lithium grease can go a long ways. Good luck!
It uses 20 bearings!!
@@thenextlayer It had bearings and still broke at a point with the bearings? Did you use printed bearings or bought?
Thanks for the video.
I've seen a few videos where the filament respooling tools experience failures due to their interface with the drill/driver used to operate them.
It seems like a model that has an affixed motor might hold up better, as well as can be operated more slowly. Friction wear and heat seem to be the failing points on the models.
I hear fuzzy skin is good for handle grip, and that would hide some of the model imperfections. But I've brought screwdrivers like that in any old hardware store for cheap so really wouldn't bother printing. Handy expansion parts for it, sure. But I think it's a good thing the main parts are injection cast or metal for strength too.
I make my models in blender, and I COULD share the blender files if people want to export them at a higher subdiv level
Great video. I'm new to 3D printing but have been modeling things off and on for 10 years. I love seeing not only if these tools failed but how so I can better prototype my own.
Have you used the featherboard? Does it do what it says on the tin properly? Does it shatter after one use? You haven't really shown using it while ripping wood
I need to get nuts that fit properly!
Dude forget re-spooling!! Use the simplest 3mm rings that only clip on the spools’ circumference. 👍🏻
Good video! 🙂
They break after no time, though... But yeah, maybe I should. I have a ton of them.
@@thenextlayer yeah but they’re cheap & fast to print again! 🙂
Awesome video, waiting for the next one! Especially the pcb holder helping hand one!
Slant 3d has an excellent video about printing things like threads vertically like you did with the vice. The weakest part of 3d parts is the layer lines so for strength (like with a vice) you need to print horizontally (or slanted, that's their thing). He came up with a clever trick to print a screw horizontally, slice off the side lengthwise to provide a flat side to lie on the bed. The screw will still do it's thing and be much stronger.
I have had one or two prints that turned out hard to turn, so when I have this problem I turn to a lubricant I use to lub printers. I use lithium grease, it seems to do the trick. It never did any damage to the printers I repaired. For plastic tools it seems to work so far
Great video! Big fan of project recommendations (or "stay away from" recs). You mentioned PTFE Lubricant in the video. What is that? I've just been using silicon lubricant for parts that need a little more slide.
I think they’re similar…
Well they sre two complety different lubricants ptfe have solid particles mixed in a fluid and silicone lubricants are silicone fluids. Making them withstand difference pressures, chemical amd so on.
One specific thing to note silicone are very hard to get rid of and spreads/easily contaminate other surfaces. A lot if indutries ban silicone all together since it repells paint.
I switched to a Pastamatic roller and aside from needing a few extra pieces (clips to hold down, different spool holder bar, some shims) I have run through so many rolls
If you are printing PETG with any bambu printer you need to slow down the print speed. Their default speed is way too high and will cause issues like poor layer adhesion and the stringing you are seeing. 75mm/s is about as fast as you want to go with that material.
Are Bambu profiles same or similar to Orca ones? The PETG profile in Orca is completely nuts with part cooling fan, not surprising things fall apart. And yes the material is weird and has a limit to how fast it wants to be pushed before it behaves oddly as well.
I made the fillament spooler and have been very happy with it, the noise problem i fixed by putting tape around the bottom rollers to "cushion" them. I also printed it in petg so that it holds up better though i only run my drill at about half speed while im transfering fillament, as ive had too many fillamenys snap at full speed on other respoolers and it becomes a nightmare.
I printed the respooler in PETG but haven't done much with it. I need to reprint the drive axle.
Great video with interesting models. I love the format and would enjoy more like it.😊
Would you suggest getting a Creality K2 Plus + CFS, waiting for reviews to come out, or go straight for a Bambu X1C + AMS now while it's on offer?
Haven't tested the K2 Plus, so I can't say.... Sorry :(
Do you mind tinkering? Creality K series has potential but requires more from the user, same for most "budget" printers on the market. Bambu is more plug and play if you just want it to work, but you pay a premium for that.
It's a decision between if 3d printers are your hobby (Creality) or you are looking to support a hobby with a 3d printer as a tool/appliance (Bambu).
@@NiSE_Rafter I'm willing to put in the hours as I have in building my Voron V0.1 and rebuilding and upgrading my Ender a bunch of times, if it means I can get similar performance out of a printer whose software isn't completely locked down (Bambu even encrypting their log dumps is really weird IMO)
@@calinnilie Personally I'd get the K2 Plus then (Klipper plays a big factor here), but only after it's been properly released and evaluated by the public. The K1 had some early issues hence the K1c coming so soon after and I wouldn't be surprised if the full K2 setup had a few hiccups at launch too.
Edit: ya know what seeing that early bird discount it might be worth it to say fk it and get it on discount lol maybe I'll join you
I had so many attempts at finding the right part online, I always design my own because at least it'll do exactly what I want it to. It's worth designing every time.
It’s fascinating that you actually had a backstory for the Vroller, I thought it was a solution looking for a problem. Kind of wild that you can damage a cardboard spool when I go to recycle them they usually have some resistance turning off the sides
Covering useful prints is absolutely my favorite stuff, my dude.
17:45 I wonder if you have tried the scarf seams in Orca Slicer yet, it is quite possible it could fix this issue.
I live at Yokneam, Israel and have 0 issues with PETG. I am using a modified Artillery SW X1.
ASA on the other hand. required some additional modifications to my printer.
I’ve printed two of the solder scrolls so far. One on my modified Ender 3 V2, and another more recently on my upgraded FYSETC Prusa MK3S clone (by upgraded I mean I swapped out parts like the rods, bearings, and hot end, among other parts, for genuine ones from Prusa). Came out better quality on the Prusa, but the one I printed on my Ender 3 V2 works very well too
For the V-spooler, I just finished mine, and I agree about the center bore. It would be better to add a run-away bar on the top spool (when my spools start to get to the end, they tend to want to run off of the spool if it goes too fast). Also, I think a re-design of the screwdriver version, to add a replaceable mount would allow for less re-assembly, and only having to replace the small mount itself. Yes, mine is also noisy as hell...
Love seeing 3D printing tools! Thanks for testing them!
My pleasure!
Very useful. Cool to see what works and what needs work to be good stuffs.
Commenting for engagement! Keep up the grind man. You are doing great.
This format is excellent! More tools!
I've been wondering lately about adding a wipe tower to tall, thin prints, to give the layer time to cool before going over it again. I think it would also help with overextrusion bulges.
great video, good analisys of the designs and great to have sugestions on what material to use or how to give them a better use.
how do you power your 4500-watt vacuum? I would have thought that is way too much power for a standard power outlet.
It is. I can’t turn on all 3 motors at once.
Loved it. Really good advice. I printed the V-spooler In Petg and PC. So far so good.
Any thoughts on the various printable Heat-Insert Press models out there?? The more reliable looking models require some parts, would be good to get some idea of the pros and cons of the best models. Ans also,...are they worth it at all?
I’m torn. I love the channel and have been subscribed for a while. But he said if we subscribe there will be less dirty jokes. But I like the dirty jokes. So now I don’t know what to do.
More dirty jokes it is!
I rarely comment on RUclips (mainly because I tend to watch on a smart TV) but anyhow, thank you so much for emphasising the usefulness of uploading the .STEP files! So many times I've gone to the files section and just gone... oh man! Sometimes, a remix of a file that had step files were uploaded as .stl's, what is this? Anyway, once we get over that, maybe we can then look at broken .step files, just when you think, yes, a .step, you upload it to OnShape and go... nooooo... I need to fix it first!
Awesome content, thanks!
You should touch more on the pick tools iv used my circuit set up for post processing and mostly scraping petg off the hot end I am a mechanic so I have alot of "O" ring picks different shapes and sizes helped out quite a bit and can be much cheaper than buying the circuit branded picks! Also a good precision file kit should be a must as well!! Everyones sleeping on the mini files for post processing! 😴 Thank you for all your work we appreciate your videos keep it up 🤙
I really appreciate the transparency when it comes to the actual usefulness of these prints. I've gotten SO excited to print different tools or just fun things and then it turns out they just don't work properly and that's such a bummer. But like you said, no disrespect to the creators and designers!!! I can just BARELY split a file in half, let alone make something from scratch.
edit: love the cut-aways to you editing the uh... puns hehe
I did the V-roller out of PETG with the gears being ABS-GF and it has worked so well. Absolutely love it.
Regarding the respooler. Never had an issue with the pastamatic. You just have to follow the print instructions carefully regarding infill and walls. Also dont go ham. Go slow with the driver...never broke anything
My issue with the pastamatic was that the TPU flaps were not enough to stop the spool from continuing to spin if you stop with the drill.... This one, when you stop, it stops, because it's direclty driving the master spool.
@@thenextlayer Ah yes i understand. I also have the tpu flaps but they dont do much. I just go slower with the drill when i see the spool almost being empty to combat this.
14:03 how does a 3D printing channel with 130k subs not know how to print slightly challanging models?
I’ve actually printed a dummy version of the LTT screwdriver (I think it was a month before the ratchet version was released) the reason why the model has so many artifacts is because it’s a direct 3d scan of the screwdriver, and it’s _extremely_ tedious to convert scan meshes into step files. As for the fitment and ratcheting, yeah I think that’s on the designer, lol
Oh that’s kinda shitty that it’s a 3D scan. Didn’t realize that.
The solder scroll was flawless for me, but I did print the left-handed remix.
After working it a while, it got better :)
Flawless for me too. Printed the normal one on a shitty v1 ender 3 but its well calibrated.
Threads needs to be printed in 45 degrees to distribute force over multiple layers
Thanks for the video, subscribed. I just wanted to say using a glittery show filament on the vspooler, a device that is powered with power tools rather than using a performance grade polymer is absurd and really a hard break, literally, for the vspooler in this review. I would be interested in seeing a video breakdown and tested performance review of the popular respooler's with performance grade plastics. vSpooler Vs pastamatic with the upgrades, the pastamatic on it's own is pretty janky but once placed on a board with appropriate clamps and an upgraded drive train it works quite well. This is a tool I use heavily and it would be useful to know the strengths and weaknesses of each design with actually testing them.
Print the silent rollers and tpu feet to make the v-spooler quiet. You can find the download in the print profile section of the v-spooler.
Ohhhh smart, I'm on it.