I tried this massive 3d printer so you don't have to
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- Опубликовано: 9 апр 2024
- This 3d printer is massive! This is my first try with the Elegoo Orange Storm Giga, a 3d printer capable of printing 800x800x1000mm.
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Make large molds and cast concrete furnitures!
with plastic sheet and wood ;)
@@pdjames1729 with pancakes and wood glue!
@@MyllerSWE old towels and spare gloss paint
ramen
@@MiGujack3 Banana mush and hen feathers!
Bless you.
I was a wood furniture designer/builder for 45 years. After being forced into early retirement I decided to try tackling printed furniture.
There is about as much to learn about printing as there is to learn about wood furniture building, and not much crossover between the two.
The first thing you must do is 'think out of the box' when it comes to designs, avoiding overhangs/ supports, 'joinery', and try to come up with one-piece solutions to furniture applications. It's not easy to switch over from woodwork thinking but you'll get the hang of it.
I realized early on that I couldn't really make anything from gluing together parts, so I purchased a Modix big60 for about what you paid for the elegoo. It's been a very reliable and flexible machine. I print mostly with a 1.0mm nozzle, sometimes a 1.5mm and sometimes a .8mm. I avoid infill when I can and rely instead on hollow parts with multiple perimeters and internal bracing/webs, it saves time and money and is pretty strong. I only use PLA for prototyping ideas and PETG when it's time to get serious. (The thing about PLA is that it sags and weakens over time, some of the large prints I did 5 years ago are starting to fall apart.) PETG is a little too flexible sometimes though.
I've experimented with CF/Nylon, ABS, PC, etc., and they are not cost-effective, plus they all require heated enclosures.
Drying your filament is essential, always take your spools down to 12-15% before you use them, and keep them in the dryrs when printing. I have several of the sunlu dryers, they work pretty well.
Calibration is crucial. Whatever printer you're using, flow rate, e-steps, clearances, temperature towers, experimenting with nozzles, temps and speeds is essential before you can get consistent results, and on a big machine, these factors are even more important to get properly sorted.
I abhor postwork. After 4 decades of woodworking I don't ever want to see another piece of sandpaper or finishing product. And this is one place where printing can be a boon, a properly designed project can come off the bed ready for use, which is just the way I like it.
The time factor is a drag, yes, but I just turned out a pair of very nice loudspeaker enclosures with double walls that I filled with fine sand, and not only are they stylish but the sound in amazing, and REW software measurements show that they are as accurate as any production examples under $6000 a pair. Yes, They took 400 hours to print, but a pair in plywood or MDF made to the same standard of function would take a comparable amount of days because I can print 24/7 but only work 12/7.
I prefer matte filaments to gloss, they hide the layer lines/imperfections better. And even though printers x, y or z can supposedly print at 300mm/second, the basic rule remains, slower means better quality.
As other posters here have commented, making casting molds is another excellent technique and has the advantage of multiple copies being produced from a single print run ( sometimes! ) I considered casting my speaker enclosures from hydrostone, but in the end I just printed them because it was faster. ( I am not always a very patient man )
I also weigh in at 300 pounds, so designs that will keep my butt off the floor will pretty much work for anyone.
So keep working on it, if you want to discuss anything just contact me through my channel.
Hey! Thanks for your comments. I did do some calibrations - especially e-steps but since the heat break is broken - I didnt want to do too much calibrations before I recieve a replacement as it could be due to that. Great ideas for printing!
@@TheSwedishMaker I forgot to add, to solve the problem of the individual metal bed sheets not lining up perfectly, level it all as well as you can and have a piece of glass cut to fit the total bed area. I've been printing on glass for years and it presents no special challenges as long as the bed temp is kept below 70C, so it won't stress-crack. For special use cases you can apply a PEI sheet over the glass.
Subscribed.
I can see cosplayers having a field day with this printer. They already use 3d printing quite a bit, but with this they could make stuff as one whole piece instead of a bunch of smaller pieces glued together for the most part.
Actually, increasing number of walls might help more than addng the infill :)
Yeah increasing the walls is way stronger than adding infill
@@therick0996 Adding some crossbars at an angle, would offer you way more strength, probably could look at reducing the useage of filement.
@@FrodeBergetonNilsen which includes a redesign. Something not mentioned at all. Only changes in slicer settings are mentioned
@@therick0996 I know. The problem is that he made a chair that works for wood but not plastic. It needs a redesign, and simply will not be fixed by slicer tricks. Also, what works at a smaller scale, simply does not need to work at a larger scale. Once you do some real designs, you know. I simply do not know how to design anything in plastic at this scale, and I simply don't know anyone that does. Not for printing. I have absolutely no reference at all. None.
Came here to say this. Leaving a reply to boost this higher.
2:55 pro tip, you can unpack the box and carry the pieces in one or a few at a time, you don't have to keep it in the box.
I'd be so worried about dropping some small important part in the grass, never to be seen again.
That is more common sense than a “pro tip”
Part of the benefits here would be printing geometry that would otherwise be too complex or time consuming to create in any other way. For example rather than using to print a chair that could be created using wood and "traditional" joinery, creating a chair that is designed from the ground up to get the full benefit from 3d printing - the design of the chair could be truly unexpected and interesting as it's not informed by tradition or the limitations of traditional woodworking. Great video 😊
As someone who has a company for 3D printing, we actually are planning to get a large-size printer but the main use of such machines is not making or competing with regular furniture. We make custom-made products for our clients and when we make a design, it is unique and personal for a specific customer which makes it worth much more than a regular product that can be found on the shelf. And, using wood filament to make an actual chair is not ideal since most additives to filament will weaken it. A common good material for these applications is ABS-GF or PP-GF. These materials are fantastic, strong and rigid and will be suitable for furniture making.
We have our eyes on Mingda industrial printers (the 1m ones) which are enclosed and are suitable for engineering materials. The Elegoo orange is fine for basic materials it seems but lacks the potential for better materials ESPECIALLY at this scale things go wrong quickly and you need a stable environment to print your parts in. The Elegoo orange is waaaaaay cheaper though :)
Thank you for sharing your thoughts!
Love your humor, especially the look of true anguish as you sat on the chair for the first time. And how you did the wrap up of a video on 3D printing stools and chairs by sitting on the floor. And yeah - I am also glad to see that woodworkers still have a place in the world. :-)
Seeing the model of that chair rail in the slicer on the Elegoo bed and then the Bamboo bed was amazing! That Elegoo is MASSIVE!
What I would print with something that big,
Custom car parts,
Speaker boxes.
Guitar pieces (Neck and Body),
Custom bicycle rims,
Tabletop arcade cabinet,
Giant bender the robot, and giant human skull.
Just a few ideas off the top of my head.
I think we're the same person 😂😂
Giant animal crossing froggy chair ( • ̀ω•́ )✧
Ah yes, the giant bender episode 😁
Can't forget the life-size waifu anime girl 😂
Wow. It can print entire Swedes. That's truly remarkable.
INLAYS IN CABINETS/DRAWERS WOUD BE SICK like 80x60cm drawer inserts in one piece would be so clean
Was a fun inspiring video no matter what the result was. Tack. :)
As a Doctor Who fan, I would use this to print a full sized Dalek. Even at the size of the printer, the Dalek would have to be broken down into sections to be assembled after the print is finished.
not just Dalek, such a printer is a huge gamechanger for cosplay too :D
Id be interested in printing the stool hollow then filling it with something. Resin or even a thin concrete might be interesting. I realise it would require design of the internal structure but would be a very interesting build method. Also in only creating an outside layer it should use less pla.
I was going to buy this printer but the wait time is what got me. I have a few ideas to improve it using some designs and upgrades ive done with other printers.
Id use that to print all my woodworking templates
Use orcaslicer and do all of the calibrations to fix the under extrusion. If your volumetric flow speeds too high for that filament, it will cause this. Also, wood filaments are hard to print with great results in general and I don't think they are as durable.
Finally, I can 3d-print a 3d printer.
And then print another one on that printer and so on and on. Each one slightly smaller like the matryoshka dolls.
Look up reprap. Also, 3d printers can print bigger printers. It's 100% a thing.
@@mrnlce7939 heuuu this was the begining of the consumer 3d printer, reprap, etc. are you joking ?
@@ksafyer I thought it would be funny if every printed printer printed a smaller version that would fit fully on the bed of the one that printed it. Just like the Russian nesting dolls (or matryoshka dolls)
I can print a printer with a Ender 3. I sort of am, right now. A fully enclosed printer.
Great video Pierre, I was very skeptical about 3d printed furniture. now I'm even more skeptical LOL
Thanks! Me too! I should have printed a car instead 😉
Creative video, thank you :)
After your review sounds with current tech on market. This can be great for prototyping and mold making
Exactly what I need for my Twizy F1-project, it would be perfect to print the nose cone/frontspoiler and the diffusor in the back! 😅😃
after watching more, i can say this would be good for those life size models for events or conventions
This is a great video. I'm glad I discovered this channel. As a maker (not limited to any particular material or craft, but with beginnings in woodworking), I greatly appreciate both the things this video shows can be done and can't be done. I am of the opinion that there is a place in any shop for any tool so long as that tool is understood and produces value in your process. I think 3D printing is a great complimentary technology--it's better at making some pieces rather than being the sole source of parts for a single project in most cases.
You, sir, deserve every sub and now you've got one more.
Don't worry Pierre, if you ever need help moving a giant 3d printer, just give me a call! Seriously jealous. This thing looks very cool. I could see some fun use cases for this and woodworking. You could make giant router templates very easily. Or large-scale jigs. Etc.
Appreciate it. I could charter like a Concorde and send it your way 😂 Router templates could be a cool thing to try out for sure!
@TheSwedishMaker perfect! That way I'll be home in time for dinner 😂
Awesome video with a sensible conclusion :)
Thanks buddy!
Fantastic video and 100% agree there are a good number of issues Elegoo needs to sort out
Thanks! I really enjoyed watching your video on it as well. Not too many videos out on it yet - but it will be interesting to see more on it and also how it develops over time.
With the design on the stool and other large objects there are some options. You could add cross bracing between the legs quite easily as long as it's not angled past a certain amount, like 45 degrees ideally. Anything you print upright you can always chamfer more gradually into the large surface as well so support aren't necessary. For getting a wood pattern too, you can actually generate a wood grain effect and add it while modeling. In general, adding more walls will make the prints much stronger, especially in thin areas. Just some thoughts for you and anyone reading. Very cool!
You can print a crazy jig, full size and ready to use, for making an elaborate wood joint.
You could pause prints and add other materials inside the print if you model the pieces with this in mind. I obviously never print this big, but I like to add weights etc in my prints and do that through pause commands to make them fully encased in the print
I'm super excited to get mine in June. I've got a Mosquito Prime hit end with a 2.4mm nozzle waiting. Big thick layers is where it's at.
One space tip, open the box outside, and carry the pieces in? Then you only need the assembly space inside. You know, when it's NOT snowing. // The value add is when the price point is high, not low. Say, 3d printing yourself a coffin. Those things are stupid expensive. Or, body kits for cars, where customization is worth the money, and they are essentially non-structural. Great video!
I should get back to working on my large format printer, print volume is 600x1000x600 but almost ¼ of the size of that one, my main design goal was that it would fit through a doorway without taking it apart.
Amazing and scary at the same time. Good to know it's not going to compete with wood due to price right now.
not for a long time I think :) We are good. And I agree - this is the opposite of how life is supposed to be lived 😂
Wow the amount of issues straight out of the box.. thats wild. Lmao they even clogged the nozzle for you before shipping, how nice of them!
I'm pretty sure your "mountain" of Festool boxes is growing...... ;)
Awesome review of this printer. I've watched a few reviews of this printer but none until now actually made me think about what a printer of this size actually means. Thanks.
The novelty of the size is undeniable, but as you say the price of filament easily adds up for bigger projects.
You could print jigs and templates to use with your router for wood projects.
Great demo! I don't think you have to worry about losing your job! Very few people would want to print their own furniture while the majority of people prefer furniture made of traditional materials like wood ( as long as there is a will to plant more trees, and recycle as much wood as possible). I also hope to see better designed and affordable filament recycling products in the future.
Your chair looks good, and as you said it could have used a better framing configuration.
Finally, what slicer did you use? Did Elegoo include the profile for the Giga in their slicer? I would be curious to test some parts, and see what kind of printing time I would be expecting for one of my future projects.
Would love to see you make a few fun garden items like statues and bird baths. Possibly even a post box or sundial
so would it be worth building an enclosure for this for heat regulation through entiere print. or at that point just crank the heat in the room to 90+ deg?
I didn't expect him to say the S word at the end, the beginning was totally PG 💀
3D print museum artifacts for hands on education. Recreate a complete vintage locomotive style tv or rare radios for display or theatre props. So many cool stuff to create, if I could I would test this out and probably make stuff all day long.
car parts, molds, drawer inserts, trim pieces, jigs, cases, mousepads, desktops, PC cases I could think of loads of things to use it for.
Would love to see a full bed calibration cube :D
first things that come to mind: cosplay and prop making for small theatres and such :)
I like your video, thanks for doing this.
You could use the print parameters used by VORON for your designs. Those are really stiff and it should be the right amount of walls, infill etc.
I think it is perfect for printing large picture frames.
Holy shit, this thing is GIGANTIC!
Hey man! I love your videos!!! Just heads up, you keep mentioning infill when you talk about strength, but actually, number of perimeters is going to influence strength more than infill. Just FYI!
Hey man! Yes - I forgot to mention the walls. I was printing with 5 walls on the chair and the stool.
hollow legs for threaded rod. a cushion on top and rubber feet. perfection and durability
Would printing in vase mode and filling it up with a low expansion PUR foam work?
Not sure if the bed would get hot enough but you could try PCTG for stronger parts
Every time I see a new video about it, I get nervous about my Kickstarter unit
Sounds like you had the exact same issue that the 3DPrintingNerd had with the hotend crashing right into the bed. I think with the size it will be better suited for creating larger models and possibly molds to do resin or silicone in.
For added strength you might want to look at more perimeters instead of more infilll.
I'm printing a enclosure for my printer, tons of pieces that bolt together. With this i could print it all at once
You can carbpn fibre wrap prints for strength and looks.
I could see this being super useful for printing large scale pieces for cosplay
With this size, you can print pretty good speaker enclosures that are worth more than 3d printer itself. You can also print whole rc plane parts and much more.
Actually, PLA is one of the “strongest” materials you can print, for holding/crushing, and layer adhesion. Petg, and Abs are better “impact resistant”.
PLA is more ridged and PETG/ABS are more ductile.
@@mrnlce7939 No. PLA is malleable, which is its major weakness.
ABS also won’t warp under load.
Like if you print a towel hook in pla, it will slowly bend under the weight and break.
ABS will just sit there happily holding the towel unless the weight is too much and it just breaks.
@@youtubevanced4900 that’s total BS, I have printers with parts 5-6yrs old that have PLA parts, under tension and they haven’t moved.
@@Thomllama I'm glad for you. It is true though. It's pretty much the only reason anyone uses ABS besides a bit of temp resistance.
It looks like the 4 sections of bed are just Neptune 4 max beds stuck together. I have one and while it can totally print very great big prints it is very finicky. For example, the bed needs an extra 20 minutes to heat up every time in order for it to be the same temp all around.
Wonder if you could do a print in place bedside table witha draw
Your video was cool. I wish that 3D printer. Greetings from Perú.
This printer is best for bigger Cosplay items! :o
Loved the video! I wonder if you could use a large format printer like this to design and build large router templates, say for guitar bodies. Shows that wood working and 3D printing could have a place along side each other in the future.
Hi, great channel. You can use cling film wrapped around the frame to enclose the print for other filaments.
Great tip!
Let us know when the stool breaks. I would try printing it in parts. The chair seat plate as one print with hexagonal leg slots. Legs separate with hexagonal shape, printed flat on the bed so the layers are vertical, rather than horizontal. Possibly even each leg in two pieces that hexagonally plug in together. Also it means a lower risk of print failure destroying the entire print. You could then glue the legs or just make them them a snug connector fit. Use arch construction for a full back rest chair. With 3D printing you need to change the design to match the material capabilities.
Im pretty sure you should only use Wood PLA with a hardened steel hot end, not sure if the Orange Storm Giga comes with that installed or a more common stainless steel hot end.
Its worth spending the filament just making cool projects to show the world honestly. You could end up making cool puzzle pieces for artwork then showing a fully crafted item- like aircraft, ships, tanks, 3d printed tree or flowers within a pot. Literally anything man! If I had the ability to do this stuff, I'd make anything anyone asked for in the comments because its something new to try. Even if it ends up not going well, its still content to show us the limits and capabilities of the machine!
Good thing about any problems with printing is, that enough time perfecting it will pretty much resolve it. Once you are able to overcome these issues and setup ideal printing technique, level out the bed correctly and know how to re-level it and maintain it, then it would take little time. The finish of any product can be improved by fuzzy perimeters or by sanding and paint job, finding right filament can greatly improve the outcome as well, so overall I think it is achievable with enough time around tinkering the process as with anything.
If you could use a very low infill that had gaps creating channels that something like resin could be poured into that could be interesting. Obviously resin an PLA don't mix well, but the idea is what matters. Using a 3d print to act as an exoskeleton/mold could be pretty cool.
large machines like this are good for cosplay-type projects. if you want a helmet or something larger like that in one print instead of many little prints and gluing them together. maybe even the hobby airplane community might find a use for it.
That same break happened to 3d Nerd. 1 extruder and 2 plates later and code update he started printing!
printer of that size I would be making jigs, forms and and such. nice printer!
For making furniture a laser cutter or large CNC machine makes a lot more sense.
Maybe if you could 3D print on a steel frame ... or insert the steel frame into the print afterwards...
You don’t need a different type of Mayer to make it stronger, you need different designs. In 3d printing you have a lot of strength inside the layers and very little between the layers. That stool will snap very easily!!
My first thought was Castle Grey Skull. Like kids toy play sets or displays for collectors.
This would make printing cosplays much easier
Try printing a chair upside down in vase mode (square seat that transitions into circle base) then attach a back rest
Wow 😍
Thumbs up for getting the boxes into your house alone.
You could make some mega dust shrouds with that. Also costumes
I don’t have room for such a big printer but nice to see that such a device is now affordable and available.
For stronger parts use more walls not infill. Instead of useing more infill you can make tiny (0.1mm) cutouts inside the model. This way the slicer is forced to add walls there.
Interesting what’s possible to print with such a big printer.
What is the black filament used for the stool ? It look nice !
That chair you made is way better than my highschool chair.
i mean to me who makes car interior work this would be a game chancer because some parts cost lot of money and are discontinued
Wood filled filament absorbs wood stain. Sand well before and brush in the same direction and you get a wood appearance. Also wood PETG exists. That would be cool to see.
That would probably be an awesome printer for cosplay or signs.
Here's an idea which I hesitate to say instead of doing myself!
Try creating a sort of shell print of a chair, and then fill it with resin
Is it possible you could link that stool? I would love to print it!
Giant router templates!
Funne about the sizes it can make. I would make more rc bodies, designing parts for them for my channel, both here on youtube, instagram and tiktok. But not as big as your channel (yeat) ;-) Thanks for showing the new Elegoo. Best from Mickey, Denmark
I think one reason for both the stool's success and the chair's failure is fillets on stress risers. If you round off those inside corners, the chair will be able to take a lot more weight. It does make it look a LOT more 3D printed or machined and a lot less woodworked, though!
You should totally print a boat and try to use it. Like an actual floating boat. Or a snowboard, or something that you can ride on.
I think this would make a lot of sense if you had a pellet extruder.
Since you need compound filaments for best prints - get a proper filament making extruder set up in the same room, and use a filament width sensor to compensate for variable width from your in-house penny filament.
watching the heat bed flex as you stand inside the printer gives me anxiety
How do you get Elegoo to send their products to you to test it
Sometimes when it looks like the printer isn't adjusting to the changes in the height in the bed it's because it might be adjusting too much, which is caused by an inaccurate bed mesh.