I love your style of no BS, silliness or slapstick that so many RUclips Makers seem to think is necessary to add to their videos. I learned so much just from this one video. I’m glad that I found you!
With regards to sanding PLA I've always had good results using wet sanding, the problem with PLA is that it has a low glass transition temperature so when dry sanding it tends to heat up which makes it very difficult to sand, if you have a bowl of cold water near by and use wet and dry sanding paper just keep dipping the part your working on in the water every now and then and the sanding paper too, then it keeps it all cool and it works much better. Using up to 1500 grit paper I've got a mirror sooth finish on PLA, it did take a lot of sand though.
I feel that PLA is almost like sanding wood. Happy to hear that PETG and ABS are even easier. But yeah, wet sanding is best because it contributes to removing dust from the work piece during the process. The issue I have had with PETG is the increased warping which means I have to use a raft on most parts. And yeah, it gets slightly tacky if you dry sand. Since I don't use a power tool it is less of a problem.
That's a great idea! I keep thinking sanding PLA is more like melting it with friction but never thought to keep it cool with wet sanding. Maybe that mixed with my foot sander will do the trick. Thanks!
You can take the flat end of a soldering iron, like ones used for headsets, with a short strand of filament, and use those to ‘weld’ the plastic together, then you can sand over it for a smooth surface finish.
Just finished painting a helmet literally as this video got posted. There are so many tips in here I could have used since it was my first time doing this. Turned out great, but rest assured this video will come in handy for the remaining parts once they are off the printer. Thank you
Foot sander upgrade: foot pedal power switch. Hold down to sand, release to stop, way better than fumbling with the inline control. I bought a Wen switch from Amazon for $12 USD, definitely worth it!
Sander for your foot? Brilliant!!! In the Army we used to say if it looks/sounds stupid but it works, it works! Thanks for that golden nugget to work larger areas too large for a Dremel, and too small/delicate for a larger tool. Don’t forget UV glasses for the UV light 😉 Keep up the great work - first time viewing your content and you got a new subscriber!
Cheers for sharing this useful information. For sanding multiple parts, I invested in a small sandblaster kit, which produces consistent surface quality and ultimately takes the tedium out of manually sanding numerous intricate parts. A sandblaster gets into every nook and cranny and easily removes any traces of brim. 👍
I'm SO happy RUclips brought your channel into my feed... Foot Sander ORDERED. Thank You for making sanding "less" painful; it was a real pain in my foot .... (I'll see myself out)
Great video! Also worth mentioning, I think, is that in addition to being easier to sand, PETG and ABS/ASA have a higher glass transition temperature; which means they are less likely to warp if you leave them in a hot car. I think the only reason not to use ABS/ASA is if you don’t have an enclosed printer. Looking forward to watching more of your content.
You are incredible! Had a project i was working on where i wanted a nice finish and was so discouraged by the results i was getting just from Reddit, going to reprint immediately!!
Purchased the foot sander which has been great. I purchased a momentary foot power switch / cord to use with the foot sander and made it even better for me. Now I can turn the foot sander on a off without having to move my hand off the sander or part.
Awesome!! I have been using UV resin like you do but I didn't know about the foot sander. It will be a great addition to my tools. One thing that I use for metal look is metal powder for cold casting. They give a very realistic finish and make the surface very abrasion resistant. You can use iron that can rust if you want, bronze, stainless etc.
i have had good results using a semi flexible backing pad that i hand wrap the sand paper around, it makes the sanding flatter and more even. I also wet sand over paint which gives an even smoother result. In the past i could never get a glass like finish from hand sand and spray cans but now i can with those techniques. You generally don't need sandpaper made for wet sanding just use what you got and see how it goes, i have never had an issue.
Nice finish. My unrequested tip would be to adjust your Z offset and at least a .2 mm gap for your supports so you can save time and just flick them off. Keep those pliers in your tool box.
A great tip for the foot sander: get a pack of these 50mm sanding discs with a hook and loop foam pad (from amazon) and stick the foam pad with a double-sided tape to the base of the sander. Then you can use it with any grit you want! Saves a lot of time when sanding filler.
This is some great information--I'm mostly into PLA and TPU for my needs (and leaving them rough), but what you're doing is art. And I love the display at the end--beautiful!
Bondo spot putty is acetone based so if you put some Bondo into a cup and add a tiny bit of acetone you get a nice slush that you can now paint onto your part with a chip brush. Great for getting into spots your finger can't fit as well as when you need to cover large areas. Never mind, you cover this later in the video .. I also use Rustoleum 2 in 1 filler primer exclusively. At $8/can it's half the price of Dupicolor primer and way easier to find. I make a lot of big sci fi props and armor and would go broke buying dupicolor ...😬. 2-3 good coats of it and the part is ready for painting usually.
Right now Duplicolor is the cheaper option around me but I’ve stocked up on the Rustoleum when it’s gone on sale from time to time. I’d love to be able to get my hands on a tub of Feather Fill G2 but any 2k stuff seems to be nonexistent in Canada.
I mainly use PLA, and sand from 80-3k, then again with a whole series of Zona paper. This week I tried that with Duplicolor Anodized Metal paints for my Halo Plasma Pistol tests, and was very worth the struggle. I'm going to stop being stubborn though and go back to PETG. I stopped using it due to issues on an old printer, and never tried it on the CR6 Max. No point in tormenting myself further lol
ABS rocks......the QIDI machines love ABS.........it has become my favorite filament now......Hope one day to do finish work at 50% quality she does with these props, they are amazing!
Found your channel a few weeks ago and it is awesome, love the videos and no BS approach, learnt so much as I start by 3DP journey. Plus the foot sander is on order from Amazon. Finally I am a Star Wars nerd so Win Win.
I have been trying to find a small head sander for a while, i even considered maybe making something from a RC motor and prints, but the foot sander is cheap enough and a good idea.
I often use thinned down (just use water) woodfiller as ridgefiller on my pla-prints and brush it on with a paintbrush....works great and sands great. Experiment with your own mix for prefered results...good luck!
Great video! I loved your processes, and that foot sander is something I'm gona check out, I print and build rc airplanes and was looking for a small sander not long ago! Gosh I really hate trying to sand and process pla!! Thanks so much for sharing these with us, your channel and builds are amazing!!
Wait, what, a foot sander!? Lol, I did not even know this existed, or how much I needed this until now. I have been using a "mouse" type sander all along.
Great finishing video for printed parts! I glue a lot of ABS parts - have you tried Weld-On 2354? It only works on ABS, but its like water- apply with a syringe bottle. Chemically welds- sets up super fast and strong. If they are bigger, lightly clamp for a few minutes. Working time is 3 minutes/fixture time is 5 minutes. After 15 minutes- you almost have to break the part to get it apart.
A tip for perfect surface finish: in the end use either 1k or 2k clear coat and do a few layers. 2k clear coat is extremely good with filling some surface imperfections and also makes your paint job extremely durable. You can then also use some other spray clear coat (matte for example) if you don’t want it to be glass shiny, or just lightly wet sand it a bit with 1200/1500 grit sandpaper for that neat semigloss finish
You might want to look into dental/nail salon/jeweler’s handpieces for sanding! They are high torque and very comfortable, purpose built for this kind of precision work.
you caught me with the foot sander as an amazing idea(-perfect size!) but when you said "i'm glad to know this is what my legacy on the internet is going to end up being" XD you got me hooked. so glad I found you today :D you just got another sub
great video ☮💚kudos for applying your spot putty with a brush, i see so many folks using spray cans & it's crazy inefficient. may i recommend using a wet & dry sanding blocks when blending seams like you have on the hammer handle there. they're great for smoothing curved surfaces in general. took me way to long to catch on to foam sanding blocks.
for bonging plastics Gloop is the way to go, its fast but repositionable, once cured its stronger than the plastic, the stuff is awesome for this type of thing.
You should try guide coating after priming. You just lightly dust the object with black spray paint. Once you start sanding, you'll see the benefit of it.
There is a smooth print plate for that printer that would save you sanding the bottom part since the print comes out super flat at the bottom. Also I find it sometimes easier to apply one coat of filler primer before the fist sanding cause it fills the layer lines and imperfections to some extend so you don't need to sand down to the lowest level. In many cases I could completely skip the first sanding and go to finer grit right away like that. Also keeps the printed parts closer to their design dimensions which is important for parts that are put together and have some mechanical/moving purpose like triggers or levers.
I am well aware, however textured build plates have become the norm for the majority of the latest printers, some of which don’t have the options out there for different built plate textures. I wanted to show that it was possible to make that texture disappear on your prints. Any pieces that have moving parts I won’t touch with a sander unless something needs it to fit better. If it’s something like a trigger, I’d smooth out the visible trigger piece, but leave any of the internal mechanism section untouched.
I must admit im very lazy! For my students im printing over 10k parts a year for education purposes and i have designed them to do nearly no postprocessing. Its very nice to see here how to print bigger parts and possible solution for making them awesome looking!
This came out great! Nice smooth finish. I think you could push it further and use shaped sanding blocks. It keeps edges and seam lines consistent and from dipping lower than the rest of the print. I mean it looks fine the way it is but just a tad extra can make a difference. Whenever we sand random shapes we always shape our sanding blocks to the surface it's sanding. Then 77 the sand paper on.
if you want a better sander, i know alot of people in the 3d printer community uses the M12 Detail Sander by Milwaukee, personally i recommend it as well. not only is it faster for removing plastic layer lines it does it quietly and not really vibrative. i also reccomend their newest 3" sander.
Wow, your perfectionism is astonishing! Though I have to wonder whether this is really the best process for parts like these - they kind of look _too perfect_ for what they are, more like industrial parts of aluminium or stainless than tools you'd expect in an armoury. Even weidly reminiscent of dentistry equipment or something. And I reckon all the sanding took longer than it would have taken a blacksmith to forge them out of steel...
You probably already know this but just in case, PLA and PETG don't stick to each other so you can use either or for the support interface. Bambu Studio supports this natively so you only have to select the support interface material. Since they don't stick you can set the Z height to 0 and they come out looking perfect. This probably won't matter much if you're sanding the part but it's still a good feature to keep in mind.
I noticed in your comment and others reference to setting the "z height to 0." I am new to 3D printing and just learning my Bambu printer. What are you refering to when setting my Z height to 0 and is there any reference videos you think I may benefit from watching.
Regarding your thickener choice for the uv resin and your comment about how hard it is. Silica is an effective thickener but it is also extremely hard. Baby powder while stinky is primarily made of talc which is also and effective thickener but relatively soft. There are commercially available versions of talc for filling various resins such as West Systems Low Density F. The filler often has a larger effect on the sanding difficulty the the resin itself.
-PETG HF from bambu labs is fast and easy to print, to the point where PLA is almost obsolete (tho it requires a drybox) (elgoo rapid PETG is also good) -printing with a 0.2 mm nozzle and with surface ironing turned on will DRAMATICALLY improve the surface finish -many plastics can be partially melted to insta smooth out, with an acetone or chemical fume bath etc Wild to see the effort that's been going into seemingly simple cosplay props tho
I wonder if I could use one of those callus removal sanders to sand down the cast resin dice i make. If it's got a flat enough surface I could stick some zona paper on there and get a good sanding surface instead of buying a big pottery wheel
That’s exactly how I felt when I heard about ABS. The sandability of filament should definitely be a bigger discussion, especially with so many people using 3D printers for props and costume projects these days that will require more post processing.
I’ve never personally found it to be more difficult to print with than PLA on any of my printers over the years. It just uses hotter temps and less cooling so that the layers bond properly. Bambu’s stock settings for PETG seem to work great.
@@fotisxevgenisPetg prints just as well on my prusa, just gotta make sure its dry, otherwise youre gonna get a ton of stringing. Dry petg prints better than moist pla in my opinion...
Not to interfere with a professionals process, but a final sanding prior to final paint coat you should look into scuff pads, they're also used by automotive paint guys but they're basically the same as the scrubber on dishwashing sponges and work great for surface prep and don't take off a lot of material and last longer than sand paper plus more flexible in a sense..
My default is 4 top, 4 bottom and 4 walls. I sand but... Im currently experimenting with painting UV resin to hide layer lines, then finishing with 1500 and 3000 grit sand paper. So far it works, but Im not totally convinced yet.
If you don't mind me asking, what is EVA foam. I just found this video and now I am going to go down an entire trail of how to m=get my 3D prints looking better. I am primarily a woodworker and I see so many ideas here that could help my wood working projects that I didn't think of before.
@@RobSandstromDesigns EVA is an elastomeric polymer that produces materials which are "rubber-like" in softness and flexibility.. Those 2x2 foot interlocking shop floor mats that you see at hardware stores are made with EVA foam.
that's a lot of work! I wonder what the price is for a finished product like this. I usually sell mechanical parts without too much postprocessing, but the time it takes to smooth your parts is insane! Awesome video!
@M.M's Prop Shop, you probably already know this, but UV lights are really dangerous. You should do your own research about it to learn of it's dangers. But I have seen people get really hurt and sick from long time exposure. Oh! And by the way, great video haha have a nice day.
_But have seen people get really hurt and sick from long time exposure._ Where did you see these people, and what illnesses and/or injuries did they have?
I spent a lot of time with my father in his cabinet shop. Did a lot of sanding back in the day but I also really liked working on the lathe. I eventually switched over from sand paper to abranet for a lot of my work. Less build up, less heat and sanded faster. Just curious if you have ever tried any with the prints.
Prints in ABS can be smoothed with acetone vapor, either in a chamber with electric heating element or a steamer/fumigator designed for acetone. I like a lot of properties of ABS, but printing it is a pain.
I actually thought you had 3D printed one of those one-handle kitchen faucets and was both confused and, as someone with a faulty faucet, intrigued. Alas..
I love your style of no BS, silliness or slapstick that so many RUclips Makers seem to think is necessary to add to their videos. I learned so much just from this one video. I’m glad that I found you!
You may be subjected to a pun here and there but I do try to stick to the point lol
Glad you found the video helpful!
With regards to sanding PLA I've always had good results using wet sanding, the problem with PLA is that it has a low glass transition temperature so when dry sanding it tends to heat up which makes it very difficult to sand, if you have a bowl of cold water near by and use wet and dry sanding paper just keep dipping the part your working on in the water every now and then and the sanding paper too, then it keeps it all cool and it works much better. Using up to 1500 grit paper I've got a mirror sooth finish on PLA, it did take a lot of sand though.
thanks a ton for this tip, gotta try it
thanks!
I feel that PLA is almost like sanding wood. Happy to hear that PETG and ABS are even easier. But yeah, wet sanding is best because it contributes to removing dust from the work piece during the process.
The issue I have had with PETG is the increased warping which means I have to use a raft on most parts. And yeah, it gets slightly tacky if you dry sand. Since I don't use a power tool it is less of a problem.
That's a great idea! I keep thinking sanding PLA is more like melting it with friction but never thought to keep it cool with wet sanding. Maybe that mixed with my foot sander will do the trick. Thanks!
Sandblasting 3D printed parts gives a consistently smooth pre-paint finish, with less effort and in a fraction of the time spent hand-sanding. 😉
You can take the flat end of a soldering iron, like ones used for headsets, with a short strand of filament, and use those to ‘weld’ the plastic together, then you can sand over it for a smooth surface finish.
Just finished painting a helmet literally as this video got posted. There are so many tips in here I could have used since it was my first time doing this. Turned out great, but rest assured this video will come in handy for the remaining parts once they are off the printer. Thank you
Foot sander upgrade: foot pedal power switch. Hold down to sand, release to stop, way better than fumbling with the inline control. I bought a Wen switch from Amazon for $12 USD, definitely worth it!
I bought one for my portaband saw that I have on a stand. Need to move it between tools so often I probably need to buy another one
I swear I learned more about print finishing tools and techniques in this one video than in the last 2 years of printing.
Great video. Having multiple filament types in this one video makes this insanely useful.
Sander for your foot?
Brilliant!!!
In the Army we used to say if it looks/sounds stupid but it works, it works!
Thanks for that golden nugget to work larger areas too large for a Dremel, and too small/delicate for a larger tool.
Don’t forget UV glasses for the UV light 😉
Keep up the great work - first time viewing your content and you got a new subscriber!
First video from you on my timeline, toeS sanding tool, HOW COULD I NOT THINK OF THAT ??, GENIOUS !! Already ordered 1
Cheers for sharing this useful information. For sanding multiple parts, I invested in a small sandblaster kit, which produces consistent surface quality and ultimately takes the tedium out of manually sanding numerous intricate parts. A sandblaster gets into every nook and cranny and easily removes any traces of brim. 👍
I'm SO happy RUclips brought your channel into my feed... Foot Sander ORDERED. Thank You for making sanding "less" painful; it was a real pain in my foot .... (I'll see myself out)
I am impressed. Top notch skills combined with great patience. The fine work you do tells the story. Thank you for your advise.
This is very helpful for me and my son. Thank you for detailing everything out so thoroughly
Great video! Also worth mentioning, I think, is that in addition to being easier to sand, PETG and ABS/ASA have a higher glass transition temperature; which means they are less likely to warp if you leave them in a hot car. I think the only reason not to use ABS/ASA is if you don’t have an enclosed printer. Looking forward to watching more of your content.
You are incredible! Had a project i was working on where i wanted a nice finish and was so discouraged by the results i was getting just from Reddit, going to reprint immediately!!
Purchased the foot sander which has been great. I purchased a momentary foot power switch / cord to use with the foot sander and made it even better for me. Now I can turn the foot sander on a off without having to move my hand off the sander or part.
This video came out just in the nick of time. You explained everything wonderfully! Thank you!
Not sure why RUclips hasn't served me your content. Love this! Subscribed!
Awesome!! I have been using UV resin like you do but I didn't know about the foot sander. It will be a great addition to my tools. One thing that I use for metal look is metal powder for cold casting. They give a very realistic finish and make the surface very abrasion resistant. You can use iron that can rust if you want, bronze, stainless etc.
i have had good results using a semi flexible backing pad that i hand wrap the sand paper around, it makes the sanding flatter and more even. I also wet sand over paint which gives an even smoother result. In the past i could never get a glass like finish from hand sand and spray cans but now i can with those techniques. You generally don't need sandpaper made for wet sanding just use what you got and see how it goes, i have never had an issue.
Nice finish.
My unrequested tip would be to adjust your Z offset and at least a .2 mm gap for your supports
so you can save time and just flick them off. Keep those pliers in your tool box.
First time I've seen you on here. Very well done video. To the point on each tip with not a lot of stuff we didn't need.
You're he BEST! Always learning something new, and fuels inspiration!
A great tip for the foot sander: get a pack of these 50mm sanding discs with a hook and loop foam pad (from amazon) and stick the foam pad with a double-sided tape to the base of the sander. Then you can use it with any grit you want! Saves a lot of time when sanding filler.
Can you provide the item name or the Amazon link. Thanks
@@NemesisXT66 “50mm Sanding Discs, Hook and Loop Discs with 1/4" Shank Backing Plate and Soft Foam Buffering Pad”
@@jabciuthehut thank you!
This is some great information--I'm mostly into PLA and TPU for my needs (and leaving them rough), but what you're doing is art. And I love the display at the end--beautiful!
You have some cool methods. Super helpful video. Thank you very much.
Bondo spot putty is acetone based so if you put some Bondo into a cup and add a tiny bit of acetone you get a nice slush that you can now paint onto your part with a chip brush. Great for getting into spots your finger can't fit as well as when you need to cover large areas. Never mind, you cover this later in the video ..
I also use Rustoleum 2 in 1 filler primer exclusively. At $8/can it's half the price of Dupicolor primer and way easier to find. I make a lot of big sci fi props and armor and would go broke buying dupicolor ...😬. 2-3 good coats of it and the part is ready for painting usually.
Right now Duplicolor is the cheaper option around me but I’ve stocked up on the Rustoleum when it’s gone on sale from time to time. I’d love to be able to get my hands on a tub of Feather Fill G2 but any 2k stuff seems to be nonexistent in Canada.
@@MMsPropShop I love the nozzle's on the dupicolor paints but they are just too expensive an alternative around here
I mainly use PLA, and sand from 80-3k, then again with a whole series of Zona paper.
This week I tried that with Duplicolor Anodized Metal paints for my Halo Plasma Pistol tests, and was very worth the struggle.
I'm going to stop being stubborn though and go back to PETG. I stopped using it due to issues on an old printer, and never tried it on the CR6 Max. No point in tormenting myself further lol
10/10 been looking on what people do to finish stuff but hadn’t been and this popped up, thank you for all the help
Okay… I think you have me convinced that I finally need to try printing with abs. Amazing
Yes! Its only downside is you’ll never want to have to go back to sanding any other kind of filament, haha!
ABS rocks......the QIDI machines love ABS.........it has become my favorite filament now......Hope one day to do finish work at 50% quality she does with these props, they are amazing!
warm greetings from someone who also polishes 3d prints a lot 😉❤😘
Found your channel a few weeks ago and it is awesome, love the videos and no BS approach, learnt so much as I start by 3DP journey. Plus the foot sander is on order from Amazon. Finally I am a Star Wars nerd so Win Win.
I have been trying to find a small head sander for a while, i even considered maybe making something from a RC motor and prints, but the foot sander is cheap enough and a good idea.
Thank you for a very informative video that was well presented with no waffle. I picked up numerous tips, foot sander, heh.
I often use thinned down (just use water) woodfiller as ridgefiller on my pla-prints and brush it on with a paintbrush....works great and sands great. Experiment with your own mix for prefered results...good luck!
I learned a lot from this video! Thanks foot sander lady!
Acetone to thin the putty , great tip!
Great video! I loved your processes, and that foot sander is something I'm gona check out, I print and build rc airplanes and was looking for a small sander not long ago! Gosh I really hate trying to sand and process pla!! Thanks so much for sharing these with us, your channel and builds are amazing!!
Yes!!! She finally uploaded!!! Great video.
A staggering amount of effort, but the results ... 😚
I’ve been hoping for a tutorial like this from you! I love your videos appreciate all the hard work!!
Wait, what, a foot sander!? Lol, I did not even know this existed, or how much I needed this until now. I have been using a "mouse" type sander all along.
Great finishing video for printed parts! I glue a lot of ABS parts - have you tried Weld-On 2354? It only works on ABS, but its like water- apply with a syringe bottle. Chemically welds- sets up super fast and strong. If they are bigger, lightly clamp for a few minutes. Working time is 3 minutes/fixture time is 5 minutes. After 15 minutes- you almost have to break the part to get it apart.
Beautiful work - you're a master crafter!
A tip for perfect surface finish: in the end use either 1k or 2k clear coat and do a few layers. 2k clear coat is extremely good with filling some surface imperfections and also makes your paint job extremely durable. You can then also use some other spray clear coat (matte for example) if you don’t want it to be glass shiny, or just lightly wet sand it a bit with 1200/1500 grit sandpaper for that neat semigloss finish
You might want to look into dental/nail salon/jeweler’s handpieces for sanding! They are high torque and very comfortable, purpose built for this kind of precision work.
So many good techniques. Many thanks.
you caught me with the foot sander as an amazing idea(-perfect size!) but when you said "i'm glad to know this is what my legacy on the internet is going to end up being" XD you got me hooked. so glad I found you today :D you just got another sub
great video ☮💚kudos for applying your spot putty with a brush, i see so many folks using spray cans & it's crazy inefficient. may i recommend using a wet & dry sanding blocks when blending seams like you have on the hammer handle there. they're great for smoothing curved surfaces in general. took me way to long to catch on to foam sanding blocks.
this is great as i am planning on using my Qidi Plus 4 to start doing Mando Armor...this is the way!
I use a soldering iron to "weld" parts together, then a 3d printer pen to fill it in if needed before sanding.
Thanks to you I have the foot sander and rechargeable blower thingy. I've just ordered your the UV light and pans apron thingy.
for bonging plastics Gloop is the way to go, its fast but repositionable, once cured its stronger than the plastic, the stuff is awesome for this type of thing.
You should try guide coating after priming. You just lightly dust the object with black spray paint. Once you start sanding, you'll see the benefit of it.
There is a smooth print plate for that printer that would save you sanding the bottom part since the print comes out super flat at the bottom. Also I find it sometimes easier to apply one coat of filler primer before the fist sanding cause it fills the layer lines and imperfections to some extend so you don't need to sand down to the lowest level. In many cases I could completely skip the first sanding and go to finer grit right away like that. Also keeps the printed parts closer to their design dimensions which is important for parts that are put together and have some mechanical/moving purpose like triggers or levers.
I am well aware, however textured build plates have become the norm for the majority of the latest printers, some of which don’t have the options out there for different built plate textures. I wanted to show that it was possible to make that texture disappear on your prints.
Any pieces that have moving parts I won’t touch with a sander unless something needs it to fit better. If it’s something like a trigger, I’d smooth out the visible trigger piece, but leave any of the internal mechanism section untouched.
I must admit im very lazy! For my students im printing over 10k parts a year for education purposes and i have designed them to do nearly no postprocessing. Its very nice to see here how to print bigger parts and possible solution for making them awesome looking!
This came out great! Nice smooth finish. I think you could push it further and use shaped sanding blocks. It keeps edges and seam lines consistent and from dipping lower than the rest of the print. I mean it looks fine the way it is but just a tad extra can make a difference. Whenever we sand random shapes we always shape our sanding blocks to the surface it's sanding. Then 77 the sand paper on.
if you want a better sander, i know alot of people in the 3d printer community uses the M12 Detail Sander by Milwaukee, personally i recommend it as well. not only is it faster for removing plastic layer lines it does it quietly and not really vibrative. i also reccomend their newest 3" sander.
Wow, your perfectionism is astonishing!
Though I have to wonder whether this is really the best process for parts like these - they kind of look _too perfect_ for what they are, more like industrial parts of aluminium or stainless than tools you'd expect in an armoury. Even weidly reminiscent of dentistry equipment or something.
And I reckon all the sanding took longer than it would have taken a blacksmith to forge them out of steel...
You probably already know this but just in case, PLA and PETG don't stick to each other so you can use either or for the support interface. Bambu Studio supports this natively so you only have to select the support interface material. Since they don't stick you can set the Z height to 0 and they come out looking perfect. This probably won't matter much if you're sanding the part but it's still a good feature to keep in mind.
I noticed in your comment and others reference to setting the "z height to 0." I am new to 3D printing and just learning my Bambu printer. What are you refering to when setting my Z height to 0 and is there any reference videos you think I may benefit from watching.
I like to use a rigid sanding block on the seamlines in the early filling/sanding stages to make them less noticeable.
Fantastic video and advice once more Michaela :)
A proper look a using the infamous Foot Sander!
Just found you! Great video with lots of practical information and some great tools and chemicals.
i like nail files/emery boards for getting into small details
wow, great job and very long work to get such a beautiful final product. Brava !!! :)
Regarding your thickener choice for the uv resin and your comment about how hard it is. Silica is an effective thickener but it is also extremely hard. Baby powder while stinky is primarily made of talc which is also and effective thickener but relatively soft. There are commercially available versions of talc for filling various resins such as West Systems Low Density F. The filler often has a larger effect on the sanding difficulty the the resin itself.
What an awesome video. Love these so keep up the amazing work
Hooray for sanding!
Great video, learnt a lot! Thanks.
-PETG HF from bambu labs is fast and easy to print, to the point where PLA is almost obsolete (tho it requires a drybox) (elgoo rapid PETG is also good)
-printing with a 0.2 mm nozzle and with surface ironing turned on will DRAMATICALLY improve the surface finish
-many plastics can be partially melted to insta smooth out, with an acetone or chemical fume bath etc
Wild to see the effort that's been going into seemingly simple cosplay props tho
I wonder if I could use one of those callus removal sanders to sand down the cast resin dice i make. If it's got a flat enough surface I could stick some zona paper on there and get a good sanding surface instead of buying a big pottery wheel
Ive never thought about it but I googled it and PETG says is far the easiest to sand. WHY NO ONE TOLD ME THAT ??? 🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂
That’s exactly how I felt when I heard about ABS. The sandability of filament should definitely be a bigger discussion, especially with so many people using 3D printers for props and costume projects these days that will require more post processing.
@@MMsPropShop I hate sanding so much it even crossed my mind to make a DIY sandblasting machine for plastic, if that's a thing. 😂
@@MMsPropShop BTW I just ordered 10KG of PETG the minute I saw it 😂lets hope my P1S can handle it just as easy as PLA
I’ve never personally found it to be more difficult to print with than PLA on any of my printers over the years. It just uses hotter temps and less cooling so that the layers bond properly. Bambu’s stock settings for PETG seem to work great.
@@fotisxevgenisPetg prints just as well on my prusa, just gotta make sure its dry, otherwise youre gonna get a ton of stringing. Dry petg prints better than moist pla in my opinion...
Thanks for sharing! Ive been trying to find a small rotary sander and didn't know about this foot sander 😭
You could cut bigger pads with less grit to fit on the foot sander
16:13 For polishing a flat surface you better get a little wood block with attached sand paper, it gives you a better and quick result
Not to interfere with a professionals process, but a final sanding prior to final paint coat you should look into scuff pads, they're also used by automotive paint guys but they're basically the same as the scrubber on dishwashing sponges and work great for surface prep and don't take off a lot of material and last longer than sand paper plus more flexible in a sense..
Thanks for these tips and esp the links.
Nifty sander discovery. Very low rpm does the trick, surprising!
Some good quality sanding blocks would do you alot of good. Great tips for finishing!
WOW i don't want to do any of that shit but you have shown me why I need to. thanks so much! 🤘🤘
Heck yes, thanks for the instruction!
All that sanding... (I kinda hate sanding no matter where or for what... not compatible with my ADH...) the result is very beautiful
Good stuff. I wonder what glue you use for PETG. I thought this is not easy to glue with anything
My default is 4 top, 4 bottom and 4 walls.
I sand but...
Im currently experimenting with painting UV resin to hide layer lines, then finishing with 1500 and 3000 grit sand paper.
So far it works, but Im not totally convinced yet.
8:50. Little did I know my favorite call of duty technique would show up in a 3d print finishing video 😂
Amazing work! Keep it up!
To spread the bondo I use a piece of scrap EVA foam as a tool. Works a lot better than a gloved finger
Yes! Definitely should have mentioned the EVA trick - works great! I apparently just couldn’t be bothered with it for those two small areas lol
If you don't mind me asking, what is EVA foam. I just found this video and now I am going to go down an entire trail of how to m=get my 3D prints looking better. I am primarily a woodworker and I see so many ideas here that could help my wood working projects that I didn't think of before.
@@RobSandstromDesigns EVA is what they use in yoga mats. Like a dense foam that is easily pliable. Just google it
@@RobSandstromDesigns EVA is an elastomeric polymer that produces materials which are "rubber-like" in softness and flexibility.. Those 2x2 foot interlocking shop floor mats that you see at hardware stores are made with EVA foam.
that's a lot of work! I wonder what the price is for a finished product like this. I usually sell mechanical parts without too much postprocessing, but the time it takes to smooth your parts is insane! Awesome video!
UV resins are best filled with microfiber powder. It allows much thicker coating.
I think I missed something- what was the purpose of the UV resin filler over Bondo?
@M.M's Prop Shop, you probably already know this, but UV lights are really dangerous. You should do your own research about it to learn of it's dangers. But I have seen people get really hurt and sick from long time exposure. Oh! And by the way, great video haha have a nice day.
Def not good for naked eyeballs.
You can just wear a good pair of sunglasses. They will block all UV. And of course wear full sleeves.
@@orthotron “Good sunglasses” being the operatives words here. So many offer very little UV protection.
Her eyes and skin are protected. The fumes, though, are another thing, and the dust.
_But have seen people get really hurt and sick from long time exposure._
Where did you see these people, and what illnesses and/or injuries did they have?
Foot sander is genius, will be adding it to my equipment. Not too loud too right? Thanks!
Not very loud at all. I’d say it’s around (or even less) than the noise that something like an electric razor would make.
It's like a wasp in your ear.
great vid. Enjoy it lots. good to find another misapprobiated tool I now "need". but if I may? why not hang the parts when spraying them? cheers
This is great! What type of metal paint do you use for these pieces?
Amazing!! What paint did you use for the hammer? Did you add some type of protective clear coat?
Damn… those are camera ready props (maybe even better looking than some on set props)
I know, and made of ABS these things could last years without damage. I want a CLOSED 3D printer now
I spent a lot of time with my father in his cabinet shop. Did a lot of sanding back in the day but I also really liked working on the lathe. I eventually switched over from sand paper to abranet for a lot of my work. Less build up, less heat and sanded faster. Just curious if you have ever tried any with the prints.
Prints in ABS can be smoothed with acetone vapor, either in a chamber with electric heating element or a steamer/fumigator designed for acetone. I like a lot of properties of ABS, but printing it is a pain.
some very fine work!
I actually thought you had 3D printed one of those one-handle kitchen faucets and was both confused and, as someone with a faulty faucet, intrigued. Alas..