You should of printed the hammer with solid TPU People don't realize the "shear" strength of TPU especially with 100% infill, it is by far the strongest filament we have access to so far. I've been using it a lot more for functional objects and it keeps impressing me, you can literally drive a car over the parts and they are fine.
@@GilesBathgateI did, he did eventually turn them sideways to increase strength, but that wasn’t my question. All of the vertical prints could have been flip to save on all of the filament used to support the head
@@brandonrippeonphoto I think he answered the question though he said "I was a fool for printing it up like that". The thing is its not always obvious which is the best way to print something until after the fact, and maybe if you are making a video for youtube, you don't want re-print and film again just so you don't look foolish? I think its good to show mistakes and then point them out so others can learn from it.
@@brandonrippeonphoto Yes inverted vertically doesn't make any sense either. You want to lay it flat like so that viewed from directly above it looks like the letter T and so that the leftmost and rightmost tips of the T are flat on the bed. Having like ----| when viewed from the front is no good nor is ⊥
The engine in my car requires a specialized tool to remove the injectors (N54 engine in a BMW). Instead of paying $70 for the tool, I just designed and 3d printed a tool that did the trick for me :)
That’s rad! I found a file for blasting intake valves for my car (direct injection), but I haven’t tried it yet. It’s one of those files that’s pretty simple, but makes the job so much easier. More importantly for me, having a little job task for the bigger task makes me more excited for both tasks.. Don’t worry, I know I’m brain broken.
I ❤ the slow pace and calmness of the video, it's why i keep coming on you channel. In these days all want to feed you in 1 min the history of the earth. Also all the personal insights and struggles without trying to mask it makes me appreciate it even more. Thank you and I wish to you and your family Happy Holidays!
Making an "emergency" mallet is quite easy and faster then printing it. Just pick up a decent sized thicker board, carve some holdable form into and their you go :)
I've done some pause and add sand prints in the past and the first time I did the exact same thing you did. However, I found that just moving the head far enough away from the print works fine while filling, and then topping up the sand with some glue to harden the top layer so it won't blow away when the print head starts moving over it again. I've also created a jig for the 32mm cabinetmaking standard, to drill holes for the shelves. I bought metal cylinders to place in the print so that the drill bit won't wear out the plastic. So far so good. Your channel is very inspiring, keep up the great work!
In the piano industry, there aren't many tools, so we make them ourselves. I usually work with brass to make sure I dont damage steel strings, for example. I made over 50 tools and jigs to help create and repair everything. My last made isn't very crazy, it's a triangle to glue ivories squared to the key, but it's just the exact and perfect size for this very specific job.
Another parameter for strong parts is number of walls. I usually print mechanical parts with 5 walls. The infill percentage is actually less important once you are over, say, 40% infill. So 40% infill and 5 walls makes for a very strong part.
I print loads of free stuff, but I’m also happy to pay for really good designs that people have invested their time in, that’s fair enough. I bought a few of your files a few weeks back & will get to printing them soon!
You produce some of my favorite content. I’m not a woodworker, but I very much appreciate the skills of those who are. I’m not a CAD designer, but again, I do respect those who are capable. I am not a 3D printer, but I do have a machine that produces some rather excellent spaghetti. If you keep posting, I will keep watching.
My 6YO son LOVES 3D printed tools, they’re mostly not dangerous so he can practice and play with them. Then he has some skills to start from when I have him help me with projects with my real tools. I have no problem paying for 3D designs, especially if it incentivizes people to create designs that would otherwise not exist.
Has arguably the nicest workbench money can buy, does video on saw horses. Lol Love the laid back vibe with zero hype and all personal experience. Thank you for your time on the models, but even more so for the video.
I’ve been into 3d printers since 2014 ish. Never wanted one because I could tell it was in its infancy. After the P1S and X1C was released I finally got into this. Amazing how far it’s come since the original printers all my friends were making. Or building I should say 😂
I got into it back in 1999. Back then the only people to talk to were at NASA. I took a job as a security Guard and self taught on a laptop Rhino software. (Not Rhino of any number back then it was just "Rhino".)
I'm always happy to see people share their designs for free, but if they charge for them, I totally understand and am happy to pay (if it's a reasonable price). Bills don't pay themselves after all.
I design and 3D print various tools as well but yes the problem is monetizing. Thanks for any links you have to sales outlets! PS next time you fill something up with sand first pour in some catalyzed resin so it will become a solid lump. This works particularly well with coarser heavy materials like buckshot.
nice to know the orientation can change the structural integrity depending on how the tool is used. I'm new to 3d printing and just starting to learn about the possible utilities of this platform of printing.
If you need an adjustable wrench right now, you'd just go to the nearest tool store and buy one unless it's more than say an hour and a half away or you didn't have any money. I'd say the tools worth printing are speciality tools or tools you might only use one or twice or tools with super long lead times.
Best thing I have found for hammers is to have screw-on hammer faces, and print it so the layers are either on the side, or on a steep angle. Its handy for working with soft or delicate materials. I also have a 10kg sledge. For the big problems. Making specialty tools is absolutely the best way to get bang for your buck out of 3d printing. Why pay $700+ for a tool you only need for one specific task for a single use when you can do a little creative engineering and not get ripped off by the company that decided that you shouldn't be able to service that item.
I'm a huge advocate of open sourcing stuff, a massive part of my life revolves around it and it's because of this I completely agree that selling designs is fine. Personally I've never paid for any designs because as a hobby if I want to make something I'll make it because that's part of the learning experience that is the hobby itself, but if I was doing something for a job and I could buy the exact thing I needed to save a bunch of time in designing it, or if that design itself was way outside what I could realistically reach then of course I'd buy it. Same goes for woodworking plans or even clothing patterns, it's the same thing. I'm delegating that entire cycle of design, refine, reflect to my wallet and saving a whole bunch of time :D
I'm not sure where to get tungsten beads but lead ones are at the fishing lure store. Unless you have small kids using your dead blow hammer (watch your knees)and have forgotten to close one of the faces on it, I don't think toxicity is going to be much of an issue.
In regards to being able to fill a 3d-print with something to increase weight, choose a "gyroid" infill pattern. This way, all the cavities inside the print should be connected, rather than closed-off, like some patterns might end up being.
For the mallet lay it down and it will be less likely to have issues. If your printer isn't big enough across to do that flip it over so the head is at the bottom and you don't have to make supports all the way down, cat to this is the handle is thinner so more likely to get bumped by the head and have alignment issues. That said you would print about 1/3 of the amount of plastic by not standing it up like that. so less waste and faster.
You've made a great example, why common design might not be ideal for 3D printing. The fist hammer was derived from wood and metal design with round and tailored corners. The hammer at the end was properly designed for 3D printing and it worked well. (You can tweak from there and make it a prettier and sturdier, but thats not my point). Many designs we know for plastic objects come from injection molded parts. They are designed for minimal material usage and have completly different material properties compared to 3D printed parts. With additive manufacturing in 3D printing you can use infill and thick walls, which result in sturdy designs. You can 3D print things, which would be overly complicated or impossible with injection molding.
What you need is adaptor insert plates (Possibly held together with rare Earth magnets.) The world HAS that angle measuring tool. Seek out other angles and compound angle and make adaptors that would fit on the 45 degree plate. (In fact I would look at changing the 45 degree plate over to like a 30 degree and then make an adaptor insert plate back to 45 degrees, then create a compound angle so that you would have 45 degrees with off set options. (the smaller you can make it the more it would be attractive to people doing Models, or things like faceted stain glass.)
100% agree with you on paying for files. Some designs take SOOO much time and material to iterize into the final design and that will quickly burn out even the most passionate designers. A trickle of income from the design can make it feel much more worth it and helps pay for the software to do the design work. Even if its just paying for the coffee while doing the design work, it helps stay motivated.
Whenever I print or design something that is going to take a beating or needs a bit more flex, I design channels that I can use to thread solid core wire through. I came up with the idea when I was working in a wind tunnel, and we wanted cheap wind tunnel models, but were concerned about how brittle PLA and other plastics were, especially along layer lines. It was more work but it works great.
I think 3d printing is very cool. I've heard that once you get one, you can't believe how much stuff you can use it for, but I just can't think of things that I would print that I couldn't make some other way. I don't want to waste plastic. I don't want to make trinkets, plastic tools that I could easily buy at the store for cheap, or costumes. The cost isn't a concern of mine, I just wish I had enough to print to make it worthwhile. My welder paid for its self because I could weld onto broken bolts, make things, etc.
At least designing all these successes and failures gives you something to do during those cold Swedish winters! Thanks for the content! Just bought a Bambu A1 and can’t wait to start printing!
I think that there is a mutual relationship between makers who put their work out there, they know that other people will get use out of their models and that they will get use out of other maker's models, and everyone is paid back for their work
Just print with more walls and the strength goes up dramatically. For ASA, CF and HT enforced filaments, 5 to 8 walls works wonders. Do use glue stick on the bed to counter warping
Just an idea: print the handle and head separate like a real hammer, allow both parts to be printed laterally with minimal support. also allows access to weights from inside the head
Try and print more often in 45*. It’s adding a lot of strength and you don’t need a lot of support to hold it. But I would add some to stabilize the part.
If you want to try the mallet again, make it so the striking face is screw off (to fill it with sand) and once it's screwed down tight, allow it to have a deep lip so you can put a boot of some kind on it
Your final hammer addresses most of what I'm going to say, but it's worth saying anyway (feed the algorithm). If you were to print a solid handle, but hollow head (then fill with sand), you would gain several mechanical advantages. The solid handle would resist any layer line separation. Also, moving the mass to the head will increase the force delivered during impact. This could be done as a two part print with chunky threads where the handle & head meet. Then permanently bond the two pieces together with Weld-On 16 (my preferred 3D glue). Just as a side thought, if you could get your hands on powdered lead, that would give you added mass & allow it to act as a dead-blow hammer. Those can be really helpful, but almost impossible to find in a small size.
You could also lower the infill and then pour epoxy in them. The epoxy will help add strength through the layer lines and if you mix some metal in with it it can add weight too. Just don't use quick epoxy let it take 24 hours so it flows well and if you have a vacuum chamber pull a vacuum (just make sure you don't have airpockets that the epoxy can't reach).
You need to increase the infill in the head ends significantly, that will stop the deformation with hitting. I would do six or seven walls at the ends.
This is the very reason why I bought my very first 3D printer. It's just a budget printer but it has been very useful in making my own tools and organizers..
For a hammer, you could also simply use a sizable bolt that you screw in printed female threads in the face of the hammer, giving weight and a hard surface where it matters.
PLA-CF only has one feature: its mat looks. The carbon fibers make the PLA even more brittle and less strong, with typically even worse layer adhesion. PETG-CF is a bit more useful, but CF (and GF) is most useful for stuff like PA (Nylon), where it adds stiffness to a material that's strong out of the box and you only trade a bit of that strength for rigidity.
On the rare occasion I design something worth sharing, I always share the design files and a STEP file version, along with 3MF or STL files. I hate it when I have to make a small change to something and all I have is an STL. It can be very hard to make a small change to an STL, but when you have the STEP or the actual design files, it can be so much easier.
I have only 1 wrench and I was in need of a second one to hold a nut while I was tightening a bolt so I 3d printed a small wrench from pla and it worked fine for me!
Shop organizers where 3D printed parts shines. Jigs, temporary replacement parts, something that you want quickly or just try before you invest a proper one. Cheap things where the shipping cost cost 100x but you also dont want to buy in bulk. Nut/bolt caps especially your own design, stop blocks, etc etc... I could never finish this list
I like your dowel jig design. If you wanted it to last a bit longer I bet you could find some hardened drill guides to insert, but for a quick build I'm sure it gets the job done.
should try using concrete in the mallet, giving it more weight and strength (sand will move so not as rigid), then glue some rubber (eg bike innertube , tyre or even sole of old shoe) on the contact area to take the impact.
Interesting video, thanks for that👍. Just a suggestion: How about printing the hammer lying flat and then filling it with lead balls (shot balls) instead of sand? This way you would have enough weight and the hammer is also kickback-free. You can also try to separate the hammer head and handle. As with a "real" hammer, make the opening in the head oval and slightly conical, cut the handle a little at this point, mount it and secure it with a screw. Provide small holes inside the opening of the head for the invisible filling with the balls.
On the mallet. Make a series of them each with a FATTER middle section. That way you can pick the weight of the hammer you need. Next up. add small lead balls in amongst sand. Either fishing weights that used to pinch onto the fishing line or melt down some Old D&D figures. Design the handle's hole to accept a wooden dowel.
A thought, as a fellow smith and 3D printing enthusiast, designing a model with a pause in the Gcode where we insert copper blanks as hammer faces may work.
I guess my take on the mallet would be printed flat and hollow in hard TPU, like 98A and then fill it with fine concrete. Make the head a bit more hollow than the shaft or the head a little bigger.
Great video as always. I finally got a new laptop so I now can order your sandpaper holders and the couple of other items you sell from your website that I can 3D print. I’ve been wanting about a year to do this so Thanks for sharing your ideas. And sharing the other 3D printing ideas you share on makers world, and the other 3-D platforms.
@@TheSwedishMaker Thanks for your response sir! I don't imagine that the mallet would be particularly resilient either way, to be honest. Interesting idea though! Do you think that you could 3D print a 3D printer?
recently saw the uploads of someone filling regular pla with cement and he did a press drill a lathe and a fractal vice if i remember right and the hardware parts of these were under the 100$ mark (under 100$ for a diy lathe is pretty nice)
Nice! Thank you for sharing, and I agree. If someone wants to be paid for their designs, they should charge for them. That should never interfere with those who just want to share.
Good video, I enjoy the idea of printing templates and helper tools. Now I wonder if you could print your hammer with a hex shaped hole in the middle of the head, from there you could press fit hex nuts into the body. Then print replaceable heads and glue a bolt on the back and screw it to the hammer. Then you would have weight and replaceable tips. I imagine you'd have to press the hex nuts in with a bolt already screwed through them to align the threads. Either way, thanks for the video and inspiration.
You should make the mallet head hollow but not the handle (angular momentum) better version would be printing horizontal (grain orientation) Loved the video though ❤
tbh i rarely use my a1 mini (like once a month) most of the time for replacing broken or improving cheap components. ok sometimes for stuff that needs to be accurate too like mounting adapter plates for small electronics and such. but man is it a handy machine to have! paid for itself pretty quickly :)
I am ok with people selling their designs but it frustrates me that it somehow breaks the open source nature of the 3D printing world. For example ALCH made an organization system and sold it and I even bought a few of his files. Nevertheless, after gridfinity was released I instantly switched because then I could freely share my adaptions and many other people designed things I am able to use. Furthermore, If i see a thing that is for sale but doesn't fit my use case and I redesign It I do not publish it because I feel bad for the original designer.
Sharing is caring, and it's fine for a quick design that worked first time after spending a few minutes on the model. But for something I've spent a couple of days tweaking, I'd be more careful giving it away. If it's got some effort put into it and isn't too niche to sell, do sell it! Whether you sell the model or final product depends on how annoying the print seems to you. If you've just got one printer in use, you probably need it for other things.
There are two ways the hammer can lie down while printing. One with less support material and stronger head. Why not making it bigger? Easier to get the sant in, more weigh and easier to hit things. When the piece of wood is not fixed and table flexes the power from the blow is much waisted.
Sorry for commenting so much I really like this video :-) and I just wanted to add one more thing that magnetic clamp for the air hose you designed? That thing is badass
@@Vandel212 yeah, I watched the whole video, but he could save some filament. I would've print the head and the handle separate, and fill only the head with sand and design the handle as the plug
Thanks for sharing! Cool tests, but try to print tools at 45 degrees angle, less support, and layers are kind of neither horizontal nor vertical. Means compromis between both.
This is a perfect showcase of what 3D printing can be perfect for, and what you would literally be better off just holding a rock in your palm. I printed a desiccant container in an hour and a half yesterday, and it still boggles my mind how simple it is to just create a real useable thing in meatspace with a couple clicks. Just don’t make hammers and wrenches. Wrenches essentially couldn’t even exist until humanity mastered metalworking lol
Don't print in that long orientation rotate it 90° on the long axis printed flat That's the orientation you want that will make the head and the handle homogeneous one complete perimeter and you want to use ideally a 1 mm nozzle to print that there is a difference between three walls at 0.4 mm and one wall at 1 mm The one wall at 1 mm will be stronger then you print it with three walls with the 1 mm nozzle and print the inside empty no windfill Don't worry about your threads they will print just fine sideways as long as you use a low layer height but I wouldn't even do that I would make the cap to fill the print I would make that with a plug that maybe has a slight bulge on it so it pops in this way you don't have to use a low layer height because a higher layer height with the 1 mm nozzle say at 0.4 or even 0.5 mm layer height will also again result in a stronger print More plastic less bonds ie you are reducing your weak point layer bonding Design caps that go on the end of the hammer in TPU TPU will bond PLA sort of either make the caps pop on like a pop top cap on the ends of the hammer or multi-print using your bamboo printer and design the TPU portion with tongues that come out and bulge into the PLA that's what you have a mechanical bond as well use PLA+ this way you can print at 235 maybe even 240° c which gets you into the range of the TPU which will give you a better bond between the TPU and the PLA regular PLA doesn't handle 240 Celsius very well but PLA+ like Esun will handle 240° c Make the hammer at least 30% larger with 1 mm nozzle with the instructions I gave above print it with PLA or pet g completely hollow on the inside using three maybe even four perimeters using a 1 mm nozzle and then fill that bad boy with sand and plug the end and you can kill somebody with that hammer :-)
Hej Pierre, I made the same mistake with the same thought of adding sand to a charging stand for my smartwatch. Bird sand (the stuff you put in bird cages) blew all over my 3D printer (without enclosure) 🤣 if only your video would have been earlier...
I don't understand why printing them vertically was ever even considered? Plus filling the whole thing with sand isn't ideal either, fill just the head to increase both how easy it is to swing and its effectiveness,
having a long pause in a print causes the next layer to not bond as well as the ones printed back to back. if you have to pause you want it to be as short as possible. even a color change in a bambu ams will make a weaker bonded layer
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You should of printed the hammer with solid TPU
People don't realize the "shear" strength of TPU especially with 100% infill, it is by far the strongest filament we have access to so far. I've been using it a lot more for functional objects and it keeps impressing me, you can literally drive a car over the parts and they are fine.
Agreed! I found Priline 98A TPU on Amazon recently for $22 / 1KG and it would have worked well for this
true, the only problem is that it can't hold a lot of weight unless you make the parts very beefy. but if you do, it's basically indestructible.
if printing TPU wasnt so damn slow then yes but omg.. 3.5mm squared volume at 50mm/s
@@genin69get a Bambu P1S
Yes, TPU is very solid at 100%. I did some small footings to lift my printer a bit, and I was shocked at how tough they turned out.
Where 3D printing really shines is printing jigs and templates that are customized to your project.
This is it
Except every filament warps into a banana. Great jigs for making more bananas though...
@@NGC1433 then you need to calibrate
Curious why you’re printing them head up and not head down. wasting a lot of material for support
Perhaps you should have watched till the end.
@@GilesBathgateI did, he did eventually turn them sideways to increase strength, but that wasn’t my question. All of the vertical prints could have been flip to save on all of the filament used to support the head
@@brandonrippeonphoto I think he answered the question though he said "I was a fool for printing it up like that". The thing is its not always obvious which is the best way to print something until after the fact, and maybe if you are making a video for youtube, you don't want re-print and film again just so you don't look foolish? I think its good to show mistakes and then point them out so others can learn from it.
@ he was talking vertically vs horizontal not inverted but ok
@@brandonrippeonphoto Yes inverted vertically doesn't make any sense either. You want to lay it flat like so that viewed from directly above it looks like the letter T and so that the leftmost and rightmost tips of the T are flat on the bed. Having like ----| when viewed from the front is no good nor is ⊥
The engine in my car requires a specialized tool to remove the injectors (N54 engine in a BMW). Instead of paying $70 for the tool, I just designed and 3d printed a tool that did the trick for me :)
That’s rad! I found a file for blasting intake valves for my car (direct injection), but I haven’t tried it yet. It’s one of those files that’s pretty simple, but makes the job so much easier. More importantly for me, having a little job task for the bigger task makes me more excited for both tasks..
Don’t worry, I know I’m brain broken.
For some expensive tool like this it may be worth paying a company to print it in metal. But if the plastic version works even better
😊
It may make sense to have a company print the file in metal if it's something that could break in plastic but if the plastic works even better
This is the real value of a 3d printer for tools. Specialized, expensive, single-use parts..
I ❤ the slow pace and calmness of the video, it's why i keep coming on you channel. In these days all want to feed you in 1 min the history of the earth. Also all the personal insights and struggles without trying to mask it makes me appreciate it even more. Thank you and I wish to you and your family Happy Holidays!
Thank you! Happy holiday
Making an "emergency" mallet is quite easy and faster then printing it. Just pick up a decent sized thicker board, carve some holdable form into and their you go :)
Or grab a rock.... his is much nicer though
@@spsully2582don't forget to shoot oogha boogha while using it though
or punch a tree?
I've done some pause and add sand prints in the past and the first time I did the exact same thing you did. However, I found that just moving the head far enough away from the print works fine while filling, and then topping up the sand with some glue to harden the top layer so it won't blow away when the print head starts moving over it again.
I've also created a jig for the 32mm cabinetmaking standard, to drill holes for the shelves. I bought metal cylinders to place in the print so that the drill bit won't wear out the plastic. So far so good.
Your channel is very inspiring, keep up the great work!
Some clever ideas there, and that's one of the main reason I love 3d printing. Nicely done. 🍻
In the piano industry, there aren't many tools, so we make them ourselves. I usually work with brass to make sure I dont damage steel strings, for example. I made over 50 tools and jigs to help create and repair everything. My last made isn't very crazy, it's a triangle to glue ivories squared to the key, but it's just the exact and perfect size for this very specific job.
You can also increase the weight of the mallet by using metal ball bearings instead of sand. It would be much heavier than sand of the same volume.
Another parameter for strong parts is number of walls. I usually print mechanical parts with 5 walls. The infill percentage is actually less important once you are over, say, 40% infill. So 40% infill and 5 walls makes for a very strong part.
I print loads of free stuff, but I’m also happy to pay for really good designs that people have invested their time in, that’s fair enough. I bought a few of your files a few weeks back & will get to printing them soon!
Agree with you John!
You produce some of my favorite content. I’m not a woodworker, but I very much appreciate the skills of those who are. I’m not a CAD designer, but again, I do respect those who are capable. I am not a 3D printer, but I do have a machine that produces some rather excellent spaghetti. If you keep posting, I will keep watching.
My 6YO son LOVES 3D printed tools, they’re mostly not dangerous so he can practice and play with them. Then he has some skills to start from when I have him help me with projects with my real tools.
I have no problem paying for 3D designs, especially if it incentivizes people to create designs that would otherwise not exist.
Has arguably the nicest workbench money can buy, does video on saw horses. Lol
Love the laid back vibe with zero hype and all personal experience. Thank you for your time on the models, but even more so for the video.
I’ve been into 3d printers since 2014 ish. Never wanted one because I could tell it was in its infancy. After the P1S and X1C was released I finally got into this. Amazing how far it’s come since the original printers all my friends were making. Or building I should say 😂
I got into it back in 1999. Back then the only people to talk to were at NASA. I took a job as a security Guard and self taught on a laptop Rhino software. (Not Rhino of any number back then it was just "Rhino".)
I'm always happy to see people share their designs for free, but if they charge for them, I totally understand and am happy to pay (if it's a reasonable price). Bills don't pay themselves after all.
I design and 3D print various tools as well but yes the problem is monetizing. Thanks for any links you have to sales outlets! PS next time you fill something up with sand first pour in some catalyzed resin so it will become a solid lump. This works particularly well with coarser heavy materials like buckshot.
A mixture of plaster and PVA glue is an excellent choice for adding weight while dispersing a good amount of vibration.
You also need to change extruder gears to hardened steel ones to print abrasives on P1S! Bambu sells those, CF filament will eat normal ones fast.
nice to know the orientation can change the structural integrity depending on how the tool is used. I'm new to 3d printing and just starting to learn about the possible utilities of this platform of printing.
When you stand perpendicular to the print direction, its easy to break regardless of material. Part orientation matters a lot for load taking objects
If you need an adjustable wrench right now, you'd just go to the nearest tool store and buy one unless it's more than say an hour and a half away or you didn't have any money. I'd say the tools worth printing are speciality tools or tools you might only use one or twice or tools with super long lead times.
I love seeing how you use 3d printing as a productivity enhancer!
Also; 17:13 "Definitively wood work" for sure :D
Best thing I have found for hammers is to have screw-on hammer faces, and print it so the layers are either on the side, or on a steep angle. Its handy for working with soft or delicate materials.
I also have a 10kg sledge. For the big problems.
Making specialty tools is absolutely the best way to get bang for your buck out of 3d printing. Why pay $700+ for a tool you only need for one specific task for a single use when you can do a little creative engineering and not get ripped off by the company that decided that you shouldn't be able to service that item.
I'm a huge advocate of open sourcing stuff, a massive part of my life revolves around it and it's because of this I completely agree that selling designs is fine.
Personally I've never paid for any designs because as a hobby if I want to make something I'll make it because that's part of the learning experience that is the hobby itself, but if I was doing something for a job and I could buy the exact thing I needed to save a bunch of time in designing it, or if that design itself was way outside what I could realistically reach then of course I'd buy it.
Same goes for woodworking plans or even clothing patterns, it's the same thing. I'm delegating that entire cycle of design, refine, reflect to my wallet and saving a whole bunch of time :D
Tungsten beads or power if you need a lot of weight. It’s more dense than Lead and not toxic.
I'm not sure where to get tungsten beads but lead ones are at the fishing lure store. Unless you have small kids using your dead blow hammer (watch your knees)and have forgotten to close one of the faces on it, I don't think toxicity is going to be much of an issue.
In regards to being able to fill a 3d-print with something to increase weight, choose a "gyroid" infill pattern.
This way, all the cavities inside the print should be connected, rather than closed-off, like some patterns might end up being.
For the mallet lay it down and it will be less likely to have issues. If your printer isn't big enough across to do that flip it over so the head is at the bottom and you don't have to make supports all the way down, cat to this is the handle is thinner so more likely to get bumped by the head and have alignment issues. That said you would print about 1/3 of the amount of plastic by not standing it up like that. so less waste and faster.
You've made a great example, why common design might not be ideal for 3D printing. The fist hammer was derived from wood and metal design with round and tailored corners. The hammer at the end was properly designed for 3D printing and it worked well. (You can tweak from there and make it a prettier and sturdier, but thats not my point).
Many designs we know for plastic objects come from injection molded parts. They are designed for minimal material usage and have completly different material properties compared to 3D printed parts. With additive manufacturing in 3D printing you can use infill and thick walls, which result in sturdy designs. You can 3D print things, which would be overly complicated or impossible with injection molding.
What you need is adaptor insert plates (Possibly held together with rare Earth magnets.) The world HAS that angle measuring tool. Seek out other angles and compound angle and make adaptors that would fit on the 45 degree plate. (In fact I would look at changing the 45 degree plate over to like a 30 degree and then make an adaptor insert plate back to 45 degrees, then create a compound angle so that you would have 45 degrees with off set options. (the smaller you can make it the more it would be attractive to people doing Models, or things like faceted stain glass.)
100% agree with you on paying for files. Some designs take SOOO much time and material to iterize into the final design and that will quickly burn out even the most passionate designers. A trickle of income from the design can make it feel much more worth it and helps pay for the software to do the design work. Even if its just paying for the coffee while doing the design work, it helps stay motivated.
Thanks for sharing...I am glad that I am not the only one creating videos exploring 3D printing and woodworking cheers.
Whenever I print or design something that is going to take a beating or needs a bit more flex, I design channels that I can use to thread solid core wire through. I came up with the idea when I was working in a wind tunnel, and we wanted cheap wind tunnel models, but were concerned about how brittle PLA and other plastics were, especially along layer lines. It was more work but it works great.
Try doing the mallet with 100% infill. And maybe make it a little bigger for some more heft.
I think 3d printing is very cool. I've heard that once you get one, you can't believe how much stuff you can use it for, but I just can't think of things that I would print that I couldn't make some other way. I don't want to waste plastic. I don't want to make trinkets, plastic tools that I could easily buy at the store for cheap, or costumes. The cost isn't a concern of mine, I just wish I had enough to print to make it worthwhile. My welder paid for its self because I could weld onto broken bolts, make things, etc.
High quality video as usual. As a noob in 3d printing, I love your honest trial and error part. Learning by doing is a good philosophy.
Thank you! Yes - sometimes I wish I knew better before hand but I think I have just accepted that I need to make a bunch of mistakes before I learn :)
At least designing all these successes and failures gives you something to do during those cold Swedish winters! Thanks for the content! Just bought a Bambu A1 and can’t wait to start printing!
I think that there is a mutual relationship between makers who put their work out there, they know that other people will get use out of their models and that they will get use out of other maker's models, and everyone is paid back for their work
Just print with more walls and the strength goes up dramatically. For ASA, CF and HT enforced filaments, 5 to 8 walls works wonders. Do use glue stick on the bed to counter warping
Just an idea: print the handle and head separate like a real hammer, allow both parts to be printed laterally with minimal support. also allows access to weights from inside the head
Try and print more often in 45*. It’s adding a lot of strength and you don’t need a lot of support to hold it. But I would add some to stabilize the part.
If you want to try the mallet again, make it so the striking face is screw off (to fill it with sand) and once it's screwed down tight, allow it to have a deep lip so you can put a boot of some kind on it
Clever! thanks
Your final hammer addresses most of what I'm going to say, but it's worth saying anyway (feed the algorithm). If you were to print a solid handle, but hollow head (then fill with sand), you would gain several mechanical advantages. The solid handle would resist any layer line separation. Also, moving the mass to the head will increase the force delivered during impact. This could be done as a two part print with chunky threads where the handle & head meet. Then permanently bond the two pieces together with Weld-On 16 (my preferred 3D glue).
Just as a side thought, if you could get your hands on powdered lead, that would give you added mass & allow it to act as a dead-blow hammer. Those can be really helpful, but almost impossible to find in a small size.
BTW, all you had to do is add just a little bit of water to the sand to keep from blowing out. Inserting a lead weight would work also
You could also lower the infill and then pour epoxy in them. The epoxy will help add strength through the layer lines and if you mix some metal in with it it can add weight too. Just don't use quick epoxy let it take 24 hours so it flows well and if you have a vacuum chamber pull a vacuum (just make sure you don't have airpockets that the epoxy can't reach).
You need to increase the infill in the head ends significantly, that will stop the deformation with hitting. I would do six or seven walls at the ends.
As for the squareness of printed parts - most printers are able to be calibrated using skew calibration method.
This is the very reason why I bought my very first 3D printer. It's just a budget printer but it has been very useful in making my own tools and organizers..
2D printer? You bought a normal printer?
@joemama38 it's a typo. I changed it.
For a hammer, you could also simply use a sizable bolt that you screw in printed female threads in the face of the hammer, giving weight and a hard surface where it matters.
It looked like you only had two vertical shells in that clamp. Consider increasing the number of shells in anything you want to have strength.
PLA-CF only has one feature: its mat looks. The carbon fibers make the PLA even more brittle and less strong, with typically even worse layer adhesion. PETG-CF is a bit more useful, but CF (and GF) is most useful for stuff like PA (Nylon), where it adds stiffness to a material that's strong out of the box and you only trade a bit of that strength for rigidity.
On the rare occasion I design something worth sharing, I always share the design files and a STEP file version, along with 3MF or STL files. I hate it when I have to make a small change to something and all I have is an STL. It can be very hard to make a small change to an STL, but when you have the STEP or the actual design files, it can be so much easier.
I have only 1 wrench and I was in need of a second one to hold a nut while I was tightening a bolt so I 3d printed a small wrench from pla and it worked fine for me!
Shop organizers where 3D printed parts shines. Jigs, temporary replacement parts, something that you want quickly or just try before you invest a proper one. Cheap things where the shipping cost cost 100x but you also dont want to buy in bulk. Nut/bolt caps especially your own design, stop blocks, etc etc... I could never finish this list
I like your dowel jig design. If you wanted it to last a bit longer I bet you could find some hardened drill guides to insert, but for a quick build I'm sure it gets the job done.
No sand, use fishing weights of lead. you can get the small BB-like ones.
should try using concrete in the mallet, giving it more weight and strength (sand will move so not as rigid), then glue some rubber (eg bike innertube , tyre or even sole of old shoe) on the contact area to take the impact.
CF printed parts get moisture in them after a while and lose some strength. Glass-filled filament is generally more stable in terms of moisture
Interesting video, thanks for that👍.
Just a suggestion:
How about printing the hammer lying flat and then filling it with lead balls (shot balls) instead of sand? This way you would have enough weight and the hammer is also kickback-free.
You can also try to separate the hammer head and handle. As with a "real" hammer, make the opening in the head oval and slightly conical, cut the handle a little at this point, mount it and secure it with a screw. Provide small holes inside the opening of the head for the invisible filling with the balls.
On the mallet. Make a series of them each with a FATTER middle section. That way you can pick the weight of the hammer you need. Next up. add small lead balls in amongst sand. Either fishing weights that used to pinch onto the fishing line or melt down some Old D&D figures. Design the handle's hole to accept a wooden dowel.
A thought, as a fellow smith and 3D printing enthusiast, designing a model with a pause in the Gcode where we insert copper blanks as hammer faces may work.
I guess my take on the mallet would be printed flat and hollow in hard TPU, like 98A and then fill it with fine concrete. Make the head a bit more hollow than the shaft or the head a little bigger.
Great video as always. I finally got a new laptop so I now can order your sandpaper holders and the couple of other items you sell from your website that I can 3D print. I’ve been wanting about a year to do this so Thanks for sharing your ideas. And sharing the other 3D printing ideas you share on makers world, and the other 3-D platforms.
Surely printing the mallet head down would save materials and installing the sand would be less of an issue!
Thats what I did with the last one, except the sand
@@TheSwedishMaker Thanks for your response sir!
I don't imagine that the mallet would be particularly resilient either way, to be honest. Interesting idea though!
Do you think that you could 3D print a 3D printer?
Everyone needs at least two 3d printers at home.
recently saw the uploads of someone filling regular pla with cement and he did a press drill a lathe and a fractal vice if i remember right and the hardware parts of these were under the 100$ mark (under 100$ for a diy lathe is pretty nice)
Nice! Thank you for sharing, and I agree. If someone wants to be paid for their designs, they should charge for them. That should never interfere with those who just want to share.
Good video, I enjoy the idea of printing templates and helper tools. Now I wonder if you could print your hammer with a hex shaped hole in the middle of the head, from there you could press fit hex nuts into the body. Then print replaceable heads and glue a bolt on the back and screw it to the hammer. Then you would have weight and replaceable tips.
I imagine you'd have to press the hex nuts in with a bolt already screwed through them to align the threads. Either way, thanks for the video and inspiration.
You should make the mallet head hollow but not the handle (angular momentum) better version would be printing horizontal (grain orientation)
Loved the video though ❤
Hi, thanks for the content. One good solution is to print the object at 45 degrees. Often, no support and some toughness in both axis.
tbh i rarely use my a1 mini (like once a month) most of the time for replacing broken or improving cheap components. ok sometimes for stuff that needs to be accurate too like mounting adapter plates for small electronics and such. but man is it a handy machine to have! paid for itself pretty quickly :)
I Like the way you tell your story, it makes the video more interesting.
I am ok with people selling their designs but it frustrates me that it somehow breaks the open source nature of the 3D printing world. For example ALCH made an organization system and sold it and I even bought a few of his files. Nevertheless, after gridfinity was released I instantly switched because then I could freely share my adaptions and many other people designed things I am able to use. Furthermore, If i see a thing that is for sale but doesn't fit my use case and I redesign It I do not publish it because I feel bad for the original designer.
I have found that lead shot works pretty well to add weight.
the sheet carrier goes on top! one handed carry! the rotational action grips it onto the sheet. at least that's how that design is meant to work.
Finally someone has designed a mallet that won’t hurt your thumb when you hit it!! About time 😂
I’d be willing to bet that the PLA hammer failed where it did because of some sand particulate embedded into that layer
Great! The new episode of good mythical morning. No wait. This Rhett is useful, excellent.
i thought the same. it is uncanny how alike they are in appearance
I agree designers should be compensated for their work.
not all of them
Sharing is caring, and it's fine for a quick design that worked first time after spending a few minutes on the model. But for something I've spent a couple of days tweaking, I'd be more careful giving it away. If it's got some effort put into it and isn't too niche to sell, do sell it! Whether you sell the model or final product depends on how annoying the print seems to you. If you've just got one printer in use, you probably need it for other things.
Thanks for sharing. Just found and subscribed to your channel, can't wait to see more!
There are two ways the hammer can lie down while printing. One with less support material and stronger head.
Why not making it bigger? Easier to get the sant in, more weigh and easier to hit things.
When the piece of wood is not fixed and table flexes the power from the blow is much waisted.
That was so cool! I don’t need a mallet but I kind of want to print one just because!
Sorry for commenting so much I really like this video :-) and I just wanted to add one more thing that magnetic clamp for the air hose you designed? That thing is badass
why printing the mallet standing? you couldve printed upside down without supports haha
Exactly! Or even on the side to make it stronger due to the layer lines orientation.
At the end of the video he has a much more optimized mallet, that solves all of those issues.
@@Vandel212 yeah, I watched the whole video, but he could save some filament.
I would've print the head and the handle separate, and fill only the head with sand and design the handle as the plug
@@FelipeAgua11 That's what we like to call in the biz, moving the goalpost. I do like your idea though.
Why print a mallet at all? He's a woodworker. He could easily make one out of wood.
I mean... you could also print at angle, like 45 degrees and have optimal orientation, if you design for it and avoid supports all along. :)
Love the details and nuances you include
I agree with your points about selling and buying 3d designs.
That 3D font you showed in the intro is amazing, I would love those files if you have a number kit
Thanks for sharing!
Cool tests, but try to print tools at 45 degrees angle, less support, and layers are kind of neither horizontal nor vertical. Means compromis between both.
This is a perfect showcase of what 3D printing can be perfect for, and what you would literally be better off just holding a rock in your palm. I printed a desiccant container in an hour and a half yesterday, and it still boggles my mind how simple it is to just create a real useable thing in meatspace with a couple clicks.
Just don’t make hammers and wrenches. Wrenches essentially couldn’t even exist until humanity mastered metalworking lol
Please share where you get your magnets
Yes please!
Bought them through Alibaba - szbuytoo.en.alibaba.com/
Don't print in that long orientation rotate it 90° on the long axis printed flat That's the orientation you want that will make the head and the handle homogeneous one complete perimeter and you want to use ideally a 1 mm nozzle to print that there is a difference between three walls at 0.4 mm and one wall at 1 mm The one wall at 1 mm will be stronger then you print it with three walls with the 1 mm nozzle and print the inside empty no windfill Don't worry about your threads they will print just fine sideways as long as you use a low layer height but I wouldn't even do that I would make the cap to fill the print I would make that with a plug that maybe has a slight bulge on it so it pops in this way you don't have to use a low layer height because a higher layer height with the 1 mm nozzle say at 0.4 or even 0.5 mm layer height will also again result in a stronger print More plastic less bonds ie you are reducing your weak point layer bonding
Design caps that go on the end of the hammer in TPU TPU will bond PLA sort of either make the caps pop on like a pop top cap on the ends of the hammer or multi-print using your bamboo printer and design the TPU portion with tongues that come out and bulge into the PLA that's what you have a mechanical bond as well use PLA+ this way you can print at 235 maybe even 240° c which gets you into the range of the TPU which will give you a better bond between the TPU and the PLA regular PLA doesn't handle 240 Celsius very well but PLA+ like Esun will handle 240° c
Make the hammer at least 30% larger with 1 mm nozzle with the instructions I gave above print it with PLA or pet g completely hollow on the inside using three maybe even four perimeters using a 1 mm nozzle and then fill that bad boy with sand and plug the end and you can kill somebody with that hammer :-)
u should have printed the mallet lying flat so you can optimize layer adhesion in the vertical length of the mallet
Hej Pierre, I made the same mistake with the same thought of adding sand to a charging stand for my smartwatch. Bird sand (the stuff you put in bird cages) blew all over my 3D printer (without enclosure) 🤣 if only your video would have been earlier...
peharps instead of sand, use liquid? Fine concrete with vibration, oil, water...
You forgot to print a sight so you dont have to hit your hands like that 😜 But its quite fun to watch. You got me 😄🙃
I don't understand why printing them vertically was ever even considered? Plus filling the whole thing with sand isn't ideal either, fill just the head to increase both how easy it is to swing and its effectiveness,
having a long pause in a print causes the next layer to not bond as well as the ones printed back to back. if you have to pause you want it to be as short as possible. even a color change in a bambu ams will make a weaker bonded layer
Thicker PLA or a cross on the inside 5-6mm thick at 100% would be way cheaper than the carbon fiber and be just as good.