Hi everyone! I didn't expect this video to go so well, and it did! So awesome! It turned out that I forgot to add the actual tensioner tool in the download on my website, and I just updated the file properprinting.pro/product/desk-lamp/. Bear in mind that this design still needs to be optimized, probably with some metal parts. Most important thing when designing things like this, and that's often the challenge, is to find widely available, standard and affordable parts. If that's not possible a 3D printed solution is required. I think I do have some interesting ideas for it which I'll show when I'm going to turn it into a 3D printer! Thanks everyone for watching and your awesome comments!
ps. I'm hijacking this pinned comment now. I forgot to mention that the length of the fiber also is a factor for its frequency. The length I used in the rig is similar to the length in the profile, so therefore the direct comparison. I found an interesting article that is quite easy to understand explaining this ffden-2.phys.uaf.edu/webproj/212_spring_2014/Claressa_Ullmayer/Mersenne%27s%20Laws.html So yes, if the profile becomes shorter we have to tune it at a higher pitch to get the same tension.
Needs a steel cable for the heavier load of the microphone. Or perhaps an end joint part that the beam section fits deeper into. CA glue all the pieces after tensioning.
Fairly common, you can measure linear density of a string and calculate tension basing on frequency and length of the string, it's in many design manuals too
Resonant frequency is a function of tension, length, and mass of string. This is probably a pretty accurate technique if the lengths of the string are the same and the string is the same.
That's true! A guitar is a nice example and therefore I made sure that the length of my rig was the same as the one I used in the design. In hindsight I should've mentioned that.
@@properprinting I mention it because I assume in the future you’ll have variable length spans. You should theoretically be able to use the measurement you already made to calculate the expected frequency at different tensions and lengths.
Awesome work! For the counter-weight spring, consider borrowing from nature: the human elbow has a protrusion called the olecranon, which acts as a lever for the muscles that extend the forearm. A similar lever design would force your spring to expand more as the joint collapses, rather than pulling into the middle of the joint.
Geez thanks, now I just had to watch a video on how the elbow work. (ruclips.net/video/3l3-5Ij3JZ8/видео.html) But i really don’t get how the olecranon helps as a lever arm? It seems that its just a ”claw” around the humerus joint, the biceps attaches below it (just like the springs in his desk lamp), and the triceps attaches at the back of the claw. Or am i thinking backwards? Should his springs be concidered the triceps?
@@lillalysmasken3 The springs are like triceps: they have to apply force around the outside of the joint (more than 180 degrees). The olecranon improves this (I think?) by 2 means: first, extending the path taken by the tricep, so there is a bigger difference between the length when flexed and the length when relaxed; second, providing a lever arm that is closer to perpendicular to the muscle's force, allowing it to generate more torque around the joint. I may not be explaining super well. But if you look at the counter spring in this video, you can see that it doesn't stretch very much as the arm flexes, and as the arm flexes more and more you'll see that the spring is pulling "back" against the arm, not *around* the joint.
Why not replace the spring with more Kevlar? You can put some knobs near the joints so you can hand change the length of the Kevlar to get different angles.
First timer viewer here: I have to say your production quality is what piqued my interest, and I stayed for the cool concept, great presentation and excellent editing. I'll be sticking around!
WOW!! I have to agree, that lamp is probably the most beautiful design you've made to date. I hope that your Patreons will have access, cause I'm definitely going to be making one. Those trusses would look pretty awesome as a Delta style printer, frame, end -effector arms (scaled down), top, and base.
I filled the infill of a lamp base with sand but I filled it 4/5ths and then added some hotglue and vacuumed the spillage before resuming printing, it worked well!
As a person who owns a lamp making 3d printing business, I have to say...this design rocks! I will definitely take inspiration from some design aspects shown here. As always your videos are a joy to watch, wish you posted more often...so I don't have to keep re watching your old videos :D
@@properprinting Great! I'm currently in the middle of my own big project, making a giant 3D printer of my own, I just hope my infinity cube style enclosure works out like yours did, it looks so awesome :)
@@jakobwowy3876 Mostly gimmick type lamps, such as a robot/ufo/gramophone shaped lamps. Stuff like that. I make them for local gift shops, and they always tend to clean me out, so I never got to making much on a online presence for myself (very unprofessional, I know :( ). Best I have is inst, where I keep telling myself I'll post more, but never get to it - domodel.cro
This is possibly the coolest 3D printed thing I have seen in some time. It seems to be a blend of modern industrialism and steampunk merged into a wonderful artistic sculpture. Two really amazing looks when combined. Great work. I would love to have this displayed on my desk, and I may try to make one for myself.
Few thoughts: Don't use PLA for this system, it'll be constantly under tension and PLA is semicrystalline polymer so it'll creep over time causing tension to go down and possibly breaking in the process. For tension use phone with spectroid app, thanks to this you can see resonant frequency of the string and knowing linear density of the string (mass per unit length, eg g/cm), its length and resonant frequency you can calculate tension using appropriate equation
@@TuttleScott PLA+ is a mess, some have better performance in certain aspects, some worse overall, not something I'd recommend. But yes, higher concentration of crystalline phases help a lot (fun fact, this can bring HTD up to over 90°C making it more temperature resistant than ABS or ASA), for this best pick are high quality PLA resins (3D870 for example) with added nucleation sites
The bulk of the PLA sections are actually under compression from the end caps. The little eyelets that are tied off are where the tension is. Being so small, if it creeps by a percentage of the total length, it would be a small creep. The risk here (IMO) is that the eyelet fails catastrophically, but I'm actually curious if simply gluing the sections of truss together wouldn't be enough to hold everything, given the copper rods on each edge. I would almost assume the bulk of the load is being carried by the copper rods, and the triangular trusses are sorting out internal loads, keeping the rods apart/together depending on where and how the truss is used.
@@koos42 yeah, sorry, I called it improperly, wanted to say load but was already thinking about tension of the string. Under compression parts still creep, just usually creep results in buckling failure in this case. I do think that it calls for different polymer mostly
I love how you’re working on this big project, and taking time to demonstrate what you’ve learned by making smaller projects along the way. It’s really cool.
One addition to the lamp is the lamp shade. It can be used as a way of checking vase mode and start with the diameter of the outer thread on the lamp, after removing the bulb. Keep in mind that incandescent lamps give off heat and that was how the " easy bake " ovens got away with being sold to children instead of a heating element. The fiber tensioning system seems to rely on the pully system and you should try with drawing it out and seeing if you can go past each end one or two more times.
Lamp looks awesome!! I agree, the color of the wood filament contrasts the brass really nicely. If you are using it as a desk/task lamp, and not as a room light, I'd suggest adding a small lampshade. This will make it alot brighter and focused on what you are working on!
Pretty cool. I always like it when makers tell their end cost of materials just to gauge what kind of project it is in the spectrum of practical vs purely art.
Using RX to analyse the notes is a big money move. You could get real nerdy with the tuning of the tension and run a spectrum analyser live and have a mic pointed at the kevlar as you tension/pluck it. That way you can tune it to a exact frequency rather than a note. (From a professional sound designer not an engineers perspective)
Nice! I like the simplicity of a guitar-tuner assisted force meter. If the segments are longer, I suspect the tone will change for the same tension ? So you can calculate a per-length frequency mapping. Be careful with dimming halogen lamps, they burn out quickly when dimmed (the whole mechanism of condensing the tungsten back to the filament is disrupted when too cold. (this is why halogen lamps are also so tiny)).
Would integrating a washer on the end of the tensioning system distribute the forces across the end profile a bit better and allow you to tension further? Or for off the shelf component use a brass plumbing flare fitting that has the conical shape you use to reinforce the tensioning nut? Love the design and can't wait to see all the potential uses for the truss system!
Important to note that the pitch of the fibers is a function of the tension and the length. A longer fiber at the same tension will produce a lower pitch.
One thing to remember is a longer string will have a lower tone with the same tension. Also I am curious how well this handles the heat of the light bulb?
I think to be sure the note correlates with the tension, the number of strands in the tensioned cables must be the same, as well as the length. Guitar strings at different thicknesses produce different note ranges at the same relative tension and length, right?
Nice showcase of other uses for the same system at 14:02! Nice touch with the stamped screws! How does your channel not have hundreds of thousands of subs?
This was great to watch. I love the innovation with the 3D printing structures and the tensioning system. You went to great lengths. I tried making my own system for a boom like this to hold my smartphone and had some similar issues. The geared joints with the tension spring was a good solution to keeping the weight in position.
Just two ideas that popped into my mind at the end of the video : 1) why do you use a sand-filled bulky base, I don't know anout your preferences but I think that using a thin base that clamps on the table is nicer. 2) about the steampunk feel, I think that a simple dimmer with a brass knob would have been perfect for the kob. Thanks for the video, the build is really well done
Thanks! To answer your questions: 1: Because not everywhere it can be clamped down, like on the windowsill for instance, and it's an interesting technique to show. 2: I came across these dimmers and I like the aesthetics of it. I wanted the base to be mahogany, but I couldn't get my hands on this material in time for this video. I expected the walnut wood to look better. It's a matter of taste, a brass knob would've been nice as well, but not as special in my opinion.
Great work and it's very inspiring to watch you videos! Quick Tip: To produce a higher tension force you can simply split the connecting rod in to multiple smaller segments, 2mm in thickness for example. So the friction between the rod and the gears adds up. Maybe you can get rid of the spring also. See also the function of a multidisk clutch.
I made a similar lamp but I used 2020 extrusion that I salvaged from an Ender 3 :) I love the look of this one, I might give it a go using PETG-CF and some brass or copper fittings, I think it will look fantastic, I would maybe add a tensioning system for the spring, I used runner tube instead with a tensioner so I could get precise balance with the lamp head.
I wonder if you could also do the tuning in reverse given that you know pretty much know what frequency corresponds to a given tension. If you were to play the appropriate frequency, I think you could potentially just tension the fiber until it begins to resonate with the frequency you have playing. I don't think I've ever had a comment seen (or at least publicly acknowledged) by a creator, but I do hope you see this. I know the audio could be annoying but it's something I think is worth trying. Edit: I have now read many other's comments about the length and thickness which contribute to different pitch results. It definitely would make more sense to apply my suggested method only once you have made some sort of pitch-length map, as @HennerZeller suggested.
Nice project. It's great to see 3D printers being used as an engineering tool. Leverage the capabilities of the printer to create an innovative solution is the way forward.
For the lamp you probably should use filament led lights for style. Also using a valve with a potentiometer dimmer would be pretty cool given the style.
Use a ratchet mechanism instead of a spring, it would make different masses on the end effector behave more consistently, I asked chatGPT its thoughts on the matter: No problem! If you're considering a ratchet crank mechanism for controlling the movement of the lamp head, the concept would still work effectively. A ratchet mechanism, combined with a button or lever switch, can provide the functionality you described: lowering the lamp head, locking it in place, and releasing the lock for further adjustment. Here's how it could be implemented: 1. **Ratchet Mechanism:** A ratchet mechanism consists of a gearwheel (ratchet) and a pawl (a pivoted lever). The ratchet allows rotation in one direction and prevents it in the opposite direction. 2. **Button or Lever Switch:** The button or lever switch would control the engagement and disengagement of the pawl with the ratchet. When engaged, the pawl prevents the ratchet from rotating backward. 3. **Locking and Unlocking:** To lower the lamp head, users would disengage the pawl from the ratchet by pressing the button or flipping the lever switch. This allows the ratchet to rotate freely, lowering the lamp head. 4. **Locking in Position:** Once the lamp head is at the desired position, users would engage the pawl by releasing the button or flipping the lever switch. The pawl engages with the ratchet teeth, locking the lamp head in place. 5. **Releasing the Lock:** To adjust the lamp head again, users would disengage the pawl from the ratchet by pressing the button or flipping the lever switch. This allows the lamp head to be raised or lowered as needed. Advantages of a ratchet crank mechanism with a locking switch: - Controlled Movement: The ratchet mechanism provides controlled movement in one direction while allowing quick adjustments when needed. - Secure Locking: The pawl engages with the ratchet teeth to lock the lamp head securely in place, preventing unintended movement. - Easy Release: The button or lever switch makes it easy to release the locking mechanism for further adjustments. - Minimal Effort: Users can operate the mechanism with minimal effort, making it user-friendly. The ratchet crank mechanism, combined with the locking switch, offers a practical and reliable way to adjust and secure the lamp head's position in a 3D space. This approach provides a balance between manual control and stability, enhancing the functionality of the articulating lamp.
Neat idea. If you want heavy, use Zircon sand. It is twice as dense as silica sand. You can get it from sand blasting supplies and sand casting suppliers.
Random thought: put a draft shield around the base so that when you fill it with sand, the excess sand will end up in the shield and not all over the place. (vacume or recollect for later use) Mooie video wel weer! Goeie inspiratie voor m'n eigen projecten 🤩
A cantilevered extension attached to the spring arm would provide the additional leverage needed to support the additional weight of your mic without having to change the springs you're currently using. The design is beautiful. I was a tower crane operator and the lattice arm design is something to appreciate when done correctly.
Instead of the springs, could you run a kevlar line through the rear brass tubes? You could terminate it at the lamp and then have a winding mechanism at the base of the lamp. You might need two, with one terminating at the elbow.
Thank you sir! You inspired me to design and print a lamp ! Not as complex amd good as yours but I had a blast with the project ! Keep up the great work ! Definitely my favorite channel for 3d content!
@properprinting 👍 also thanks for the reply ! 😀 wasn't expecting that !, not that you have too but I posted a shorts video of it to my youtube (figured hey if you replied then it's worth a shot of you checking it out 🤣) take care and keep up the great content 👌
Just to warn you, I was doing this same kind of thing, tuning my belts with the tones they make when i pluck em, but i found out that at the same tension you will have different notes depending on the length of the string. Youve gotta make sure the string type, and the length are the same, then the measurement will work. :) Honestly i should have known this from the start since i play both guitar and violin....and what you're doing by pressing the frets is making the string shorter.... i do LOVE this construction system concept. I'd like to see it in 4 cornered, and with an easy way to mount things to it, it might even replace the aluminum extrusions we've been using for....forever. can you imagine it? itd be amazing...
3d printing the structural members of a 3d printer frame is a bad idea even when you add internal stresses bc of the **young's modulus** of the material. I've noticed that one fiber will always be in compression when a non-axial load is applied, shortening the member and making it lose all the preload (you're pushing on a rope if you bend the beam and transmitting all compressive stresses to the plastic). The deflection of these will be too great for a rigid printer frame. You can try making a delta printer, increasing height of the section parallel with the force and devising a system that automatically tensions the compressed kevlar by increasing the distance it has to travel as the beam begins to deflect.
I know this is already an older video so - not sure if you'll see this - but I've been down this road w/ sand. Instead of sand, use BBs. They are cheap, don't make a mess, won't blow away w/ part cooling, and are heavy.
Absolutely beautiful. I've dreamed of lamps like this. I'd like to see this design with torsion springs inside of the hinge, instead of coil springs. You could make the hinges as little packaged modules ready to be installed into each joint.
You know those toy cars we got as kids, you could roll them backwards to store energy into the spring, and then let it go and it would zoom across the room on its own? Same concept. Store energy in each hinge at just the right amount.
Awesome design! Create an outrigger for one side of the spring to attach to so that the ‘arm’ of the force vector to the pivot point increases and as such the momentum caused by the spring on the pivot. Can even do that on both sides if you want to keep them attached ‘over the top of the hinges as you have them now’. Essentially the spring would become a Mohawk at a little distance rather than hugging the pivot. Edit: your actuall pivot point is the gearing and it changes location relative to the springs. Take that into account when you try to envision how you can create a smooth powercurve…
Awesome build. I would probably have used a torsion spring inside the geometry to make it more aesthetically pleasing. The tension system is brilliant.
Always such a pleasure to watch your videos. I know it takes a long time to put them out, but they are always above and beyond most other videos. Would be cool if you slipped something in between your big video outputs maybe just some small updates. Keep up the good work.
Your work is so cool! I love watching your solutions and can only imagine how much you must spend time ruminating and testing in order to get closer to the optimal result. This is easily one of my favorite youtube channels.
I dont know if youll see this, but you could make a closed or open oval shape (like an elongated C shape) with the arcs the same profile as the gears as a set of locks for the hinges. The distance would never change, so once you have it in position, you slip your c shaped clip over the gears and it can no longer move. Might look a bit nicer than the spring. Just an idea.
Had to hit the thumbs up at the Tension-Pitch correlation testing rig. I've been trying to think of something more complex to design that is functional and cool. I find it hard to decide on something that can be 3d printed. This has started some gears turning in my head. I wonder how long you can make one of these truss systems. The outside rail could be the limit. I wonder if there is an alternative to using rigid stock in it's place. I guess it would have to be something that handled the compression from the deflection.
@@properprinting As you know, I call em as I see em, and this was truly splendid! I hope to one day be half this good in terms of story telling! Also, no clue how you did the black background in the front on shots, but MAN that is nice! The contrast of you lit up and the background being inky black was tremendous and helped bring some feel to the whole video. Really nice work!
@@3DMusketeers Thanks man! The backdrop is not too fancy www.amazon.nl/dp/B00SR28SJ8 but I took the time to iron it out. I used quality lights from the top with big soft boxes and grid to prevent light spill. I'm glad you like it!
Wow - I know you like engineering some serious stuff, but that tensioning rig! Dude! Genius 😎 Love the lamp too, especially with the fancy dimmer switch!
Great design, I totally LOVE IT!! I think a better solution for creating more tension in your rail system instead of the fiber cordage would maybe be braided fishing line. Braided fishing line comes in many different pound test, that way you're able to use whatever size pound test with minimal weight in use for your design.
Phenomenal combination of 3D printing, art, mechanical and electrical engineering. The ending was humorous because your inflection at the end of the sentence suggests there is more to say 😅
Absolutely gorgeous creation! I really like the microphone idea you did too. I have been looking for a wall-mount mic boom arm and would love to do this when you have finished your tweaking. Look stunning I need to wall mount because of limited space. This is one of the coolest creator channels. Dankjewel.
I missed you. Awesome video as always. I'm extremely impressed with Sovol printers for the money. I think they are the best value on the market right now. I really want one.
the lamp is very beautiful, only the halogen bulb I think is now obsolete both because it consumes a lot and for the production of unwanted heat, it seems to me that there are G4 dimmable LED bulbs, so it shouldn't be complicated to replace them. In this regard, I suggest experimenting with a square wave switch system that operates on very high frequencies (such as the latest generation neon) so as to see what happens if you power a LED with that system, i.e. if by varying the square wave you get a variation of brightness without however perceiving the flicker which would be a problem.
Hi everyone! I didn't expect this video to go so well, and it did! So awesome! It turned out that I forgot to add the actual tensioner tool in the download on my website, and I just updated the file properprinting.pro/product/desk-lamp/. Bear in mind that this design still needs to be optimized, probably with some metal parts. Most important thing when designing things like this, and that's often the challenge, is to find widely available, standard and affordable parts. If that's not possible a 3D printed solution is required. I think I do have some interesting ideas for it which I'll show when I'm going to turn it into a 3D printer! Thanks everyone for watching and your awesome comments!
ps. I'm hijacking this pinned comment now. I forgot to mention that the length of the fiber also is a factor for its frequency. The length I used in the rig is similar to the length in the profile, so therefore the direct comparison. I found an interesting article that is quite easy to understand explaining this ffden-2.phys.uaf.edu/webproj/212_spring_2014/Claressa_Ullmayer/Mersenne%27s%20Laws.html So yes, if the profile becomes shorter we have to tune it at a higher pitch to get the same tension.
Fantastic project, with the print files are the list of items you use present? ( and maybe links so i can buy it directly? )
@@andreasponchiado8839 Thanks! You can find that in the "Parts needed" tab on the page of that product!
i want you to understand that this is getting scaled up to mech suit
Needs a steel cable for the heavier load of the microphone. Or perhaps an end joint part that the beam section fits deeper into. CA glue all the pieces after tensioning.
Tuning the rope to match the tension was genius. I've never seen it done the other way around before this is mind opening!
Fairly common, you can measure linear density of a string and calculate tension basing on frequency and length of the string, it's in many design manuals too
Motorcycle drive belt manufacturer has an app for tensioning belt using that concept, pretty neat
Resonant frequency is a function of tension, length, and mass of string. This is probably a pretty accurate technique if the lengths of the string are the same and the string is the same.
This is how voron does their belt tension
The mechanical engineer in me is wondering how the resonance frequency changes between the test rig and the 3d printed part would affect the results.
Pitch (frequency) is a function of both length and tension. At double the length, a string at the same tension will have half the frequency.
That's true! A guitar is a nice example and therefore I made sure that the length of my rig was the same as the one I used in the design. In hindsight I should've mentioned that.
@@properprinting I mention it because I assume in the future you’ll have variable length spans. You should theoretically be able to use the measurement you already made to calculate the expected frequency at different tensions and lengths.
Awesome work!
For the counter-weight spring, consider borrowing from nature: the human elbow has a protrusion called the olecranon, which acts as a lever for the muscles that extend the forearm. A similar lever design would force your spring to expand more as the joint collapses, rather than pulling into the middle of the joint.
True!
Good thing to look at nature more often, thanks for this info!
Geez thanks, now I just had to watch a video on how the elbow work.
(ruclips.net/video/3l3-5Ij3JZ8/видео.html)
But i really don’t get how the olecranon helps as a lever arm? It seems that its just a ”claw” around the humerus joint, the biceps attaches below it (just like the springs in his desk lamp), and the triceps attaches at the back of the claw.
Or am i thinking backwards? Should his springs be concidered the triceps?
@@lillalysmasken3 The springs are like triceps: they have to apply force around the outside of the joint (more than 180 degrees). The olecranon improves this (I think?) by 2 means: first, extending the path taken by the tricep, so there is a bigger difference between the length when flexed and the length when relaxed; second, providing a lever arm that is closer to perpendicular to the muscle's force, allowing it to generate more torque around the joint.
I may not be explaining super well. But if you look at the counter spring in this video, you can see that it doesn't stretch very much as the arm flexes, and as the arm flexes more and more you'll see that the spring is pulling "back" against the arm, not *around* the joint.
Why not replace the spring with more Kevlar? You can put some knobs near the joints so you can hand change the length of the Kevlar to get different angles.
First timer viewer here: I have to say your production quality is what piqued my interest, and I stayed for the cool concept, great presentation and excellent editing. I'll be sticking around!
WOW!! I have to agree, that lamp is probably the most beautiful design you've made to date. I hope that your Patreons will have access, cause I'm definitely going to be making one. Those trusses would look pretty awesome as a Delta style printer, frame, end -effector arms (scaled down), top, and base.
I filled the infill of a lamp base with sand but I filled it 4/5ths and then added some hotglue and vacuumed the spillage before resuming printing, it worked well!
As a person who owns a lamp making 3d printing business, I have to say...this design rocks!
I will definitely take inspiration from some design aspects shown here. As always your videos are a joy to watch, wish you posted more often...so I don't have to keep re watching your old videos :D
what type of lamps? Do you have a website?
Thanks! Now I'm fulltime, the plan is to post more often! Some upcoming projects are also bigger though ;)
@@properprinting Great! I'm currently in the middle of my own big project, making a giant 3D printer of my own, I just hope my infinity cube style enclosure works out like yours did, it looks so awesome :)
@@jakobwowy3876 Mostly gimmick type lamps, such as a robot/ufo/gramophone shaped lamps. Stuff like that. I make them for local gift shops, and they always tend to clean me out, so I never got to making much on a online presence for myself (very unprofessional, I know :( ). Best I have is inst, where I keep telling myself I'll post more, but never get to it - domodel.cro
@@astrumrocket6556 That's awesome, good luck with the project!
And a little reward for your work 👍
Thank you!
This dude is in the year 3000. This is like engineering and art.
This is possibly the coolest 3D printed thing I have seen in some time. It seems to be a blend of modern industrialism and steampunk merged into a wonderful artistic sculpture. Two really amazing looks when combined. Great work. I would love to have this displayed on my desk, and I may try to make one for myself.
Few thoughts:
Don't use PLA for this system, it'll be constantly under tension and PLA is semicrystalline polymer so it'll creep over time causing tension to go down and possibly breaking in the process.
For tension use phone with spectroid app, thanks to this you can see resonant frequency of the string and knowing linear density of the string (mass per unit length, eg g/cm), its length and resonant frequency you can calculate tension using appropriate equation
It might be possible to temper the PLA to reduce creep. I seem to recall PLA+ handles it better also.
@@TuttleScott PLA+ is a mess, some have better performance in certain aspects, some worse overall, not something I'd recommend. But yes, higher concentration of crystalline phases help a lot (fun fact, this can bring HTD up to over 90°C making it more temperature resistant than ABS or ASA), for this best pick are high quality PLA resins (3D870 for example) with added nucleation sites
The bulk of the PLA sections are actually under compression from the end caps. The little eyelets that are tied off are where the tension is. Being so small, if it creeps by a percentage of the total length, it would be a small creep. The risk here (IMO) is that the eyelet fails catastrophically, but I'm actually curious if simply gluing the sections of truss together wouldn't be enough to hold everything, given the copper rods on each edge. I would almost assume the bulk of the load is being carried by the copper rods, and the triangular trusses are sorting out internal loads, keeping the rods apart/together depending on where and how the truss is used.
@@koos42 yeah, sorry, I called it improperly, wanted to say load but was already thinking about tension of the string. Under compression parts still creep, just usually creep results in buckling failure in this case. I do think that it calls for different polymer mostly
@@TuttleScott Why use this plastic at all, what´s the point ?
One of the most functional, yet aesthetically pleasing 3D printing projects I have ever seen. Bravo.
I love how you’re working on this big project, and taking time to demonstrate what you’ve learned by making smaller projects along the way. It’s really cool.
One addition to the lamp is the lamp shade. It can be used as a way of checking vase mode and start with the diameter of the outer thread on the lamp, after removing the bulb. Keep in mind that incandescent lamps give off heat and that was how the " easy bake " ovens got away with being sold to children instead of a heating element. The fiber tensioning system seems to rely on the pully system and you should try with drawing it out and seeing if you can go past each end one or two more times.
Man. That’s a work of art. Awesome job.
P.S I love the matching microphone holder
Art. Workmanship. Pride. I want one.
I was thrilled to see your video in my subs list again - I always enjoy your videos and the thoughtfulness of your engineering.
Lamp looks awesome!! I agree, the color of the wood filament contrasts the brass really nicely. If you are using it as a desk/task lamp, and not as a room light, I'd suggest adding a small lampshade. This will make it alot brighter and focused on what you are working on!
Pretty cool. I always like it when makers tell their end cost of materials just to gauge what kind of project it is in the spectrum of practical vs purely art.
Using RX to analyse the notes is a big money move. You could get real nerdy with the tuning of the tension and run a spectrum analyser live and have a mic pointed at the kevlar as you tension/pluck it.
That way you can tune it to a exact frequency rather than a note.
(From a professional sound designer not an engineers perspective)
This program is a lifesaver. I also use it often in post to remove breath sounds, pops, clicks and clipped recordings!
Nice! I like the simplicity of a guitar-tuner assisted force meter. If the segments are longer, I suspect the tone will change for the same tension ? So you can calculate a per-length frequency mapping.
Be careful with dimming halogen lamps, they burn out quickly when dimmed (the whole mechanism of condensing the tungsten back to the filament is disrupted when too cold. (this is why halogen lamps are also so tiny)).
The tone will change indeed and I was thinking of creating a map like you mention. Also thanks for the advice!
Would integrating a washer on the end of the tensioning system distribute the forces across the end profile a bit better and allow you to tension further? Or for off the shelf component use a brass plumbing flare fitting that has the conical shape you use to reinforce the tensioning nut? Love the design and can't wait to see all the potential uses for the truss system!
Important to note that the pitch of the fibers is a function of the tension and the length. A longer fiber at the same tension will produce a lower pitch.
Great example of how a basic design can be used for multiple purposes!
One thing to remember is a longer string will have a lower tone with the same tension.
Also I am curious how well this handles the heat of the light bulb?
I think to be sure the note correlates with the tension, the number of strands in the tensioned cables must be the same, as well as the length. Guitar strings at different thicknesses produce different note ranges at the same relative tension and length, right?
Keeping as many variables the as close to identicle is deffo a huge part in this. Super interesting stuff from a man way more clever than i
Its amazing! This lamp should save the whole world ❤❤❤ thank you for your enginering 😅
Thanks! I'm doing my part xD
Nice showcase of other uses for the same system at 14:02! Nice touch with the stamped screws! How does your channel not have hundreds of thousands of subs?
he's easily one of the best 3D printing channels on YT, instead of just reviewing ender clones he actually makes cool stuff and pushes the limits.
This was great to watch. I love the innovation with the 3D printing structures and the tensioning system. You went to great lengths. I tried making my own system for a boom like this to hold my smartphone and had some similar issues. The geared joints with the tension spring was a good solution to keeping the weight in position.
Bedankt
Jij ook bedankt!
Just two ideas that popped into my mind at the end of the video :
1) why do you use a sand-filled bulky base, I don't know anout your preferences but I think that using a thin base that clamps on the table is nicer.
2) about the steampunk feel, I think that a simple dimmer with a brass knob would have been perfect for the kob.
Thanks for the video, the build is really well done
Thanks! To answer your questions: 1: Because not everywhere it can be clamped down, like on the windowsill for instance, and it's an interesting technique to show. 2: I came across these dimmers and I like the aesthetics of it. I wanted the base to be mahogany, but I couldn't get my hands on this material in time for this video. I expected the walnut wood to look better. It's a matter of taste, a brass knob would've been nice as well, but not as special in my opinion.
Great work and it's very inspiring to watch you videos! Quick Tip: To produce a higher tension force you can simply split the connecting rod in to multiple smaller segments, 2mm in thickness for example. So the friction between the rod and the gears adds up. Maybe you can get rid of the spring also. See also the function of a multidisk clutch.
Thanks for the info!
Will buy it this weekend, where did you get the control switch/board?
nvm.. found it... some links are broken :(
Let's be straight about one point; this channel needs waaaaaaaaaaay more subscribers. Quality content, entertaining and very interesting.
Tuning your 3d printed structure with a guitar tuner is such a clever and novel idea. This man never disappoints.
Love watching the output of your brain, it's always worth my time; keep thinking outside the box!!
Well that sand trick is nice! Also first time right on this project! ❤
I made a similar lamp but I used 2020 extrusion that I salvaged from an Ender 3 :) I love the look of this one, I might give it a go using PETG-CF and some brass or copper fittings, I think it will look fantastic, I would maybe add a tensioning system for the spring, I used runner tube instead with a tensioner so I could get precise balance with the lamp head.
I'm not into 3D printing nor watch anything related to 3D printing on youtube, but somehow here I am. Your content is pretty amazing!
Wonderful. Looks fantastic. Maybe add a lamp shade to keep it out of the periphery when reading, etc.
I wonder if you could also do the tuning in reverse given that you know pretty much know what frequency corresponds to a given tension. If you were to play the appropriate frequency, I think you could potentially just tension the fiber until it begins to resonate with the frequency you have playing. I don't think I've ever had a comment seen (or at least publicly acknowledged) by a creator, but I do hope you see this. I know the audio could be annoying but it's something I think is worth trying.
Edit: I have now read many other's comments about the length and thickness which contribute to different pitch results. It definitely would make more sense to apply my suggested method only once you have made some sort of pitch-length map, as @HennerZeller suggested.
Nice project. It's great to see 3D printers being used as an engineering tool. Leverage the capabilities of the printer to create an innovative solution is the way forward.
For the lamp you probably should use filament led lights for style.
Also using a valve with a potentiometer dimmer would be pretty cool given the style.
Can we get this man a Nobel prize in 3D printing just for those tensioned extrusions?
15:20 You can make a wider base for the end segments to fix this issue
I’m a new patron and will eventually be building this beautifully designed lamp. Thank you for this.
This lamp is looking very beautiful, true piece of art meeting technology of 3D printing! Very well done
Looks cool. You can construct grooves in the connectors and gears. Then it snaps together.
Hands down best 3d printing channel.
Use a ratchet mechanism instead of a spring, it would make different masses on the end effector behave more consistently, I asked chatGPT its thoughts on the matter:
No problem! If you're considering a ratchet crank mechanism for controlling the movement of the lamp head, the concept would still work effectively. A ratchet mechanism, combined with a button or lever switch, can provide the functionality you described: lowering the lamp head, locking it in place, and releasing the lock for further adjustment. Here's how it could be implemented:
1. **Ratchet Mechanism:** A ratchet mechanism consists of a gearwheel (ratchet) and a pawl (a pivoted lever). The ratchet allows rotation in one direction and prevents it in the opposite direction.
2. **Button or Lever Switch:** The button or lever switch would control the engagement and disengagement of the pawl with the ratchet. When engaged, the pawl prevents the ratchet from rotating backward.
3. **Locking and Unlocking:** To lower the lamp head, users would disengage the pawl from the ratchet by pressing the button or flipping the lever switch. This allows the ratchet to rotate freely, lowering the lamp head.
4. **Locking in Position:** Once the lamp head is at the desired position, users would engage the pawl by releasing the button or flipping the lever switch. The pawl engages with the ratchet teeth, locking the lamp head in place.
5. **Releasing the Lock:** To adjust the lamp head again, users would disengage the pawl from the ratchet by pressing the button or flipping the lever switch. This allows the lamp head to be raised or lowered as needed.
Advantages of a ratchet crank mechanism with a locking switch:
- Controlled Movement: The ratchet mechanism provides controlled movement in one direction while allowing quick adjustments when needed.
- Secure Locking: The pawl engages with the ratchet teeth to lock the lamp head securely in place, preventing unintended movement.
- Easy Release: The button or lever switch makes it easy to release the locking mechanism for further adjustments.
- Minimal Effort: Users can operate the mechanism with minimal effort, making it user-friendly.
The ratchet crank mechanism, combined with the locking switch, offers a practical and reliable way to adjust and secure the lamp head's position in a 3D space. This approach provides a balance between manual control and stability, enhancing the functionality of the articulating lamp.
Perfect combination between engineering and art.
Congrats! It looks beautiful and cool!
Neat idea. If you want heavy, use Zircon sand. It is twice as dense as silica sand. You can get it from sand blasting supplies and sand casting suppliers.
This is one of the sexiest industrial based projects. I've seen in a long time and I so want one.
I really liked this. Gave me some ideas, actually. Wondering if tension could be used to strengthen a wood truss.
Dial indicator arms is what you should make ;)
Never before have I seen such an intuitive system like this, I hope you keep going because I believe it will go far!
Random thought: put a draft shield around the base so that when you fill it with sand, the excess sand will end up in the shield and not all over the place. (vacume or recollect for later use)
Mooie video wel weer! Goeie inspiratie voor m'n eigen projecten 🤩
That's actually not a bad idea, thanks!
A cantilevered extension attached to the spring arm would provide the additional leverage needed to support the additional weight of your mic without having to change the springs you're currently using. The design is beautiful. I was a tower crane operator and the lattice arm design is something to appreciate when done correctly.
By far the most beautiful 3D printed project I've ever seen! 😍
That is a thing of beauty. Form and function.
Instead of the springs, could you run a kevlar line through the rear brass tubes? You could terminate it at the lamp and then have a winding mechanism at the base of the lamp. You might need two, with one terminating at the elbow.
Awesome video Jon!
Hello.
Thanks Joel!
Print the spring mounts for the tension as bosses only and use a small brass tube as the spring mount point.
Wow, keep going. Your content is absolutely some of the best on youtube. I'm looking forward to your next post. Awesome video!!
That’s definitely your best project yet. Very unique.
Lego and Meccano can go eat their hearts out. No more hunting through your collection looking for the right part-just print it!
Thank you sir! You inspired me to design and print a lamp ! Not as complex amd good as yours but I had a blast with the project ! Keep up the great work ! Definitely my favorite channel for 3d content!
That's great, very happy to read that!
@properprinting 👍 also thanks for the reply ! 😀 wasn't expecting that !, not that you have too but I posted a shorts video of it to my youtube (figured hey if you replied then it's worth a shot of you checking it out 🤣) take care and keep up the great content 👌
Just to warn you, I was doing this same kind of thing, tuning my belts with the tones they make when i pluck em, but i found out that at the same tension you will have different notes depending on the length of the string. Youve gotta make sure the string type, and the length are the same, then the measurement will work. :) Honestly i should have known this from the start since i play both guitar and violin....and what you're doing by pressing the frets is making the string shorter....
i do LOVE this construction system concept. I'd like to see it in 4 cornered, and with an easy way to mount things to it, it might even replace the aluminum extrusions we've been using for....forever. can you imagine it? itd be amazing...
3d printing the structural members of a 3d printer frame is a bad idea even when you add internal stresses bc of the **young's modulus** of the material.
I've noticed that one fiber will always be in compression when a non-axial load is applied, shortening the member and making it lose all the preload (you're pushing on a rope if you bend the beam and transmitting all compressive stresses to the plastic).
The deflection of these will be too great for a rigid printer frame. You can try making a delta printer, increasing height of the section parallel with the force and devising a system that automatically tensions the compressed kevlar by increasing the distance it has to travel as the beam begins to deflect.
Lamp looks really good! :D
Thanks man!
I know this is already an older video so - not sure if you'll see this - but I've been down this road w/ sand. Instead of sand, use BBs. They are cheap, don't make a mess, won't blow away w/ part cooling, and are heavy.
I can't really put to words how amazed I am right now :D
You got my follow with this vid... What a clever system! You can do so much with something like this it's a game-changer!
Absolutely beautiful. I've dreamed of lamps like this. I'd like to see this design with torsion springs inside of the hinge, instead of coil springs. You could make the hinges as little packaged modules ready to be installed into each joint.
You know those toy cars we got as kids, you could roll them backwards to store energy into the spring, and then let it go and it would zoom across the room on its own? Same concept. Store energy in each hinge at just the right amount.
Awesome design! Create an outrigger for one side of the spring to attach to so that the ‘arm’ of the force vector to the pivot point increases and as such the momentum caused by the spring on the pivot. Can even do that on both sides if you want to keep them attached ‘over the top of the hinges as you have them now’. Essentially the spring would become a Mohawk at a little distance rather than hugging the pivot.
Edit: your actuall pivot point is the gearing and it changes location relative to the springs. Take that into account when you try to envision how you can create a smooth powercurve…
Awesome build. I would probably have used a torsion spring inside the geometry to make it more aesthetically pleasing. The tension system is brilliant.
Always such a pleasure to watch your videos. I know it takes a long time to put them out, but they are always above and beyond most other videos. Would be cool if you slipped something in between your big video outputs maybe just some small updates. Keep up the good work.
Your work is so cool! I love watching your solutions and can only imagine how much you must spend time ruminating and testing in order to get closer to the optimal result. This is easily one of my favorite youtube channels.
Definitely your most beautiful object. Excellent engineering as well. Thoroughly enjoyed the video. Cheers, JAYTEE
Thanks mate!
I agree. It's space age. Great work. Thanks.
I dont know if youll see this, but you could make a closed or open oval shape (like an elongated C shape) with the arcs the same profile as the gears as a set of locks for the hinges. The distance would never change, so once you have it in position, you slip your c shaped clip over the gears and it can no longer move. Might look a bit nicer than the spring. Just an idea.
Nice.. I knew when you were getting near building a triangular scaffolding print the world would be your oyster. Wonderful!
Had to hit the thumbs up at the Tension-Pitch correlation testing rig. I've been trying to think of something more complex to design that is functional and cool. I find it hard to decide on something that can be 3d printed. This has started some gears turning in my head. I wonder how long you can make one of these truss systems. The outside rail could be the limit. I wonder if there is an alternative to using rigid stock in it's place. I guess it would have to be something that handled the compression from the deflection.
WOW Amazing work here! Love the design, great story telling here too!
Thanks Grant! I'm working on improving my storytelling, so I'm very happy that you mention this!
@@properprinting As you know, I call em as I see em, and this was truly splendid! I hope to one day be half this good in terms of story telling!
Also, no clue how you did the black background in the front on shots, but MAN that is nice! The contrast of you lit up and the background being inky black was tremendous and helped bring some feel to the whole video. Really nice work!
@@3DMusketeers Thanks man! The backdrop is not too fancy www.amazon.nl/dp/B00SR28SJ8 but I took the time to iron it out. I used quality lights from the top with big soft boxes and grid to prevent light spill. I'm glad you like it!
Only one word: Awesome!
Wow - I know you like engineering some serious stuff, but that tensioning rig! Dude! Genius 😎 Love the lamp too, especially with the fancy dimmer switch!
I'm sure we would all love to sit down and pick this gentleman's brain for a couple of hours!
What about rope creep? In low stretch material even tint creep elongation would affect tension greatly..
It is very useful in building bridges, and becomes useful in 3d printing. Gj man.
Filling up the print midway with sand.. that way sealing it is genius. Also nice design using easy parts like a built in dimmer etc.
this is really incredible man, best printing channel on youtube
Great design, I totally LOVE IT!! I think a better solution for creating more tension in your rail system instead of the fiber cordage would maybe be braided fishing line. Braided fishing line comes in many different pound test, that way you're able to use whatever size pound test with minimal weight in use for your design.
Phenomenal combination of 3D printing, art, mechanical and electrical engineering.
The ending was humorous because your inflection at the end of the sentence suggests there is more to say 😅
Absolutely gorgeous creation!
I really like the microphone idea you did too. I have been looking for a wall-mount mic boom arm and would love to do this when you have finished your tweaking. Look stunning
I need to wall mount because of limited space.
This is one of the coolest creator channels.
Dankjewel.
Both brilliantly engineered & beautifully created
I missed you. Awesome video as always. I'm extremely impressed with Sovol printers for the money. I think they are the best value on the market right now. I really want one.
That's a beautiful design, and the kevlar tensioning structure is awesome. Great piece of work overall!
the lamp is very beautiful, only the halogen bulb I think is now obsolete both because it consumes a lot and for the production of unwanted heat, it seems to me that there are G4 dimmable LED bulbs, so it shouldn't be complicated to replace them.
In this regard, I suggest experimenting with a square wave switch system that operates on very high frequencies (such as the latest generation neon) so as to see what happens if you power a LED with that system, i.e. if by varying the square wave you get a variation of brightness without however perceiving the flicker which would be a problem.
This looks so f***ing awesome. I love it.