HOW TO remove and fix ESL/EIS/ ELV MODULE w212 w204 mercedes motor replace Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 22 июл 2024
- #w204ESLfix #removeESL #ESLreassemble
links to parts
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ebay links
links to parts and tools
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heres links to emulator if you decide to go this route
just remember u need to remove the eis too so they can be programmed and synced if you are sending it off to have it done ...regardless the eis and esl will need ro be removed and a spare key given so they can test it too
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!!!! IMPORTANT !! MUST MUST READ THROUGH
hey guys
welcome back, and for new comers glad to have you part of the channel
HINT NOTE: i show you how to remove the ESL 13mm nut that secures it on the steering column in part 2 so make sure you watch part 2 so you can see how i removed the 13mm nut on the ESL module.
be sure to check how the circuit board sits before reinstalling it be sure to inspect how the switches are seated ...you may have to use a thin pick and press down on the switches before reinstalling the circuit board..if you do not do this step your esl will not function and you risk breaking something once you reconnect it ....ONE LITTLE MISTAKE CAN CAUSE THE ESL MODULE NOT TO FUNCTION CORRECTLY or fry...
here is a in depth 2 PART video on how to remove the ESL/EIS AND EVERYTHING THAT IS INVOLVED IN DOING SO
BUT!!!!! THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT!!!!
in order to do the job like i have i have to warn you that, you must be able to get the esl to unlock by luck. or chance.. by.... tapping directly under the ESL module (ON THE STEERING COLUMN) in order to help the motor spin one more rotation and free the locking mechanism so the ESL can unlock AND ONCE ITS UNLOCKED YOU MUST DISCONNECT THE BATTERY SO IT STAYS UNLOCKED all this is done while the key is in the ignition.... DO NOT RECONNCT THE BATTERY UNTIL YOU HAVE FINISHED THE WHOLE PROCEDURE, OR ELSE YOU WILL FRY THE CHIP... but once you disconnect the battery you can remove the key....
this is very important so you do not have to remove the entire steering column, which is what you would have to do if your ESL is stuck in the locked position.....
once you have completed the fix.... make sure you reinsert the key before reconnecting the battery.... then reconnect the battery and test the ESL module by removing and reinserting the key into the ignition...you should be able to hear the turning noise if all is successful...
IF YOUR ESL DOES NOT WORK DO NOT KEEP TRYING TO TURN THE KEY TOU WILL SET OFF ANOTHER FAULT AND CAUSE A BLANK SCREEN .... I BELIEVE THIS HAPPENS AS A SECURITY MEASURE...YOUR IGNITION WILL ACT AS IF THE WRONG KEY IS ENTERED AND GO INTO SHUTDOWN MODE.... WHICH IS THE BLANK SCREEN...SO DO NOT KEEP TRYING TO TURN THE KEY IF TOUR ESL DOESNT WORK... you will have to reopen it and make sure everything is correctly placed ... one key aspect is to make sure the switches on the circuit board are pressed before reassemble..there are 2 switches ...grey looking ... use a pick or toothpick like tool to press them in... they are on the circuit board ... u cant miss them theres only 2 grey switch like buttons ...these must be pressed in when reassembling or u may cause damage
KEEP IN MIND I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC, JUST A DIYer
keeping in mind your skill level, before attempting any job or task, do you research and make sure you familiarize yourself with how it all works, the risks involved
ALSO IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE THEN I STRONGLY SUGGEST TO REMOVE THE ESL AND LET A AUTOMOTIVE KEY CUTTER INDY STORE HELP YOU, YOU WILLL STILL SAVE ALMOST $1000...which you can put to better use or more mods!!!!
thanks for watching
if you found this video helpful
pls like share comment and subscribe to my channel for more ongoing content just like this
sincerely
Mikeyz Vlogz
DISCLAIMER !!!!!!
THIS VIDEO IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY. IT SHOULD ONLY BE USED AS A GUIDELINE. I AM NOT A QUALIFIED PROFESSIONAL nor a MECHANIC. I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES THAT MAY ARISE DIRECTLY OR INDIRECTLY FROM USE OF THIS INFORMATION.
Mikey-
Your tutorial on the W204 ESL drive motor repair was just plain brilliant.
I am a moderately grizzled 62 yo "decent" amature/hobbyist mechanic, and I followed your steps to the letter in order to replace the ESL drive motor. It was not super-easy to do as a first-timer, but I got it done over a couple of Saturdays. The little details, like showing where to disengage hidden snaps (instead of them breaking off), and the reminder to protect the instrument cluster from the bare steering column, were GOLD. I did need to partially end-mill out one of the four roll pins on the ESL module because it would not come out, but all good.
As I got to the re-assembly, I tested (1) the motor, then (2) the ESL module (hanging beneath the dash), and then (3) the entire car, for a few hours (in Sport mode) before confidently handing it back over to my very happy wife (it's her favorite car, ever, and she refuses to part with it).
Thank you so much for putting that all together.
I would like to buy you a coffee.
Mark
mark i am blown away by your appreciation and i'd love nothing more then to have a coffee...but just your appreciation for my work is more then thanks enough..im just very happy that you were able to follow the steps to a T and get yours done ... I'm blown away everytime someone tells me how helpful the video was .. and I appreciate 🙏 sooooo much ...I can't thank u guys enough for the support and giving me feedback ... I trult appreciate all the comments and am forever grateful ..it allows me and drives me to do more helpful videos for this specific model
Crushing it bro! Keep building. 👊🔥💯
omg thanks sean... you truly are an inspiration... i will keep trying to crush it .... ur the best..I've watched u over th years and just to see tour growth inspired me to start my channel..I had no idea how it as gonna go ..but ur advice to simply just start ..hit the nail on the head..and now 4 years later I am still loving my channel but also expanding to other hobbies... in the end I m doing what I am passionate about
This video just saved my Dad from having his C300 flat bedded to Mercedes bc the wheel was locked, and we couldn't get it to unlock. He pulled the steering wheel out as far as it can go, shook the shit out of it, while I turned the key and it luckily started the ignition. We worked on this for at least an hour to no avail, and it finally worked. This literally saved him at least a grand. So thank you! ✌️👍
I have a 2010 GLK, X204, with a failed ESL unlocked position. Your video was tremendous help and I was able to repair the unit. I was able to remove the ESL without removing the steer wheel, dropped the steering column by removing the four bolts. Keep up the great work. Thanks very much for posting a great video.
excellent stuff mate.. yeah j only removed the steering wheel so that I could also have room and show basically how you would get to everything ..but well done on doing a job that otherwise would have costed 1200 ➕️
how to know it is in unlocked position?
This video saved me well over a thousand dollars thank u so much ... couldn't have done it without your step by step guide
Finally a video with a proper explanation. Thank you for this video!
thank you very much i aim to please and try to add as much info as possible so theres no room for questioning what to do ...i believe its important to share all these tips and tricks as well as showing exactly what to do, no matter how small the job maybe
after all this channel was created for you guys dedicated to help saving money and sharing priceless info
Thank you for the great guide to remove the ESL. After turning & turning trying to remove the 4 (screws) in the ESL I went & got a very small stud removal tool. They are NOT screws at all they have no threads on them, they are in fact roll pins. They will spin & spin until a pulling force is applied. Hope this little bit of info helps others with this problem.
thank you so much for this video. I swapped this motor on my 2009 X204 GLK today. And this saved me alot of time. However after several attempts I finally found that I had to trim down the axleshaft on the motor abit, it was too long and locked up inside the ESL housing. Works great now, finally.
great stuff mate well done... 👍
You are the best instructor on you tube brother, you teach me a lot of things and made me grow my business as a locksmith, now I can do so many high end cars with no fear after I see your step by step video, ty
Im so very glad to hear that buddy... even if i help just one person im happy as can be... i have no experience with mechanics i just learn what i can througj youtube and online webpages.... i wishnu all the best in your business and future endeavors
Kl
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ Thanks for your help, Mikey! Well done!
Yes I strongly agree. Amazing explanation/instructions
Great explanation and feed back
Thank you so much for your video. Watching your video enabled me to do this successfully. I appreciate that you take the time to do these. They are very helpful and it takes a great person such as yourself to help others like you do.
asw thanks for saying so I appreciate it ... and in the end I'm just glad I could help someone else
Thanks Mike for 2 of your posts. Two weeks ago I installed my new D1S HID headlight bulbs with the assistance of your hid video. 2 hours ago Feb 26 2022 my daughter and I were installing a front side marker light on my 09 c300 benz. We got the bulb in but couldn't unlock the steering wheel as we had the wheels cranked all the way over. Short of doing a (which I would never attempt) an ESL removal, we loosened and extended the telescoping steering wheel and bounced it while cranking the wheel and turning the ignition on...it worked. Mind you the ESL motor may be failing, so I will never touch the wheel after pulling the key. THANK YOU Mike.
great stuff mate well done I applaud u
A success. Thanks for sharing this awesome job.
I believe I’m dealing with the same issue.
Only difference mine’s left handed drive.
great to hear buddy .... welcome to the channel .... well done for fixing yours
Hi, my friend.
Today I did the change of the motor in the ESL part using you video as a reference.
Everything was ok after the change. Thanks a lot for the guide it was very helpful.
so u managed to do it all??? I. so happy for you my friend it wasn't too hard was it ?? that why i made this video because i have no experience in automotive industry but i can still do it and if i can anyone can
Yes i did all the process and also I'm not a mechanic.
that's what makes it even better well.done that's what my channel is all about I'm no mechanic also and no electrician but I learn everything through the net and RUclips and then I DIY... so I encourage others to do the exact same .... well done ...
Luis Diego Solano did u have to reprogram the esl with the key??
Where did u buy the motor
Thanks a lot for this video! It helped a LOT to fix my x204 (2008) ELV, which stucked in lock position... The motor has broken... I hope my motor fix will last till the replace motor arrive! Thanks again!
firstly...welcome to the channel ....pls be sure to subscribe.. your likes and comments will keep me thriving to share as much as i can with the world....so..if you get stuck somewhere and ur car isnt starting try tapping on the column under the esl position it should help the motor spin so u can start the car.... just make sure you fix it asap..cuz it will only get worse....im so glad this video was of help to you...as long as this video can help 1 person im very happy and honored ...after all this channel was started for you guys ....sincerely mikeyz vlogz
Je suis en plein réparation, je voudrais savoir comment sortir l'esl en position verrouillée sans cramer la puce. Est ce qu'il faut déconnecter la batterie ou comment ..., Merci d'avance
Hi Mikey, thanks a lot for your helpful video! For those who are possibly intimidated by the task I would like to mention that it is possible to skip some steps. It is not necessary to remove the gauge cluster, nor the steering wheel or the airbag. While all of those steps make the other steps physically easier to execute, they are not essential. For example, the removal of the steering wheel would make it easier to access the 2 top screws of the steering wheel column. So, after removing the plastic cover plate under the steering wheel column (3 torx screws and 1 phillips screw of the hood lever), it is enough to (1) remove the plastic trim / frame around the gauge cluster and (2) the plastic trim behind the steering wheel / around the steering wheel column and (3) the 2 bottom screws or all of the 4 screws of the steering wheel column. If you remove only the 2 bottom screws it is still necessary to loosen the 2 top screws so the column can be lowered and the ESL module removed but you don't need to completely unscrew the top screws. For these 4 screws you'll need size 10 hex wrenches - it is best to use t-handle variants for the bottom screws and combination wrenches for the top screws. It is advisable to have multiple lengths at your disposal because there is little space, especially when accessing the top screws, but you still need a good grip / leverage because these screws are very strongly tightened. If you have difficulty try adjusting the column / wheel position by switching the plastic adjustment clip / switch beneath the wheel. If you have trouble opening the ESL module because some of the 4 pins are stuck, it is possible to drill them out. If you have trouble putting them back securely, you should probably secure the module so it doesn't come apart, possibly with tape, or some kind of band, like a hair band. In any case something non-flammable for safety, and also it can't be thick because the module has little or no room around it when installed in its place. Make sure your check the inside of the module and carefully clean it of any debris. For lubrication, just out of caution, I used silicone grease as some of the moving parts inside are plastic. It is very hard if not impossible to photograph the ESL module in its installed position, so it's understable that it is only shown here after the successful removal. If you want to double check everything before the job, I found a nice tutorial with good images at pelicanparts dot com that I can recommend.
fantastic info mate thanks for sharing all this info .... and well.done for being able to do it your way ... I take my hat off to you
Re ESL 4 pins problem: Hammer in the correct Torxs, as there is no thread twist and pull at the same time to get those pins out. Once the US$5 motor has been changed, hammer the pins back in, use the correct ends. Can connect the ELS to the electrics while not connected to the column and try the ignition and see if lock goes in and out. Some chaps leave the ELS dangling out side the column as that motor may burn out 10 years later anyway and no one wants to steal and old Merc. There will just be no steering lock.
If the steering is locked, then the entire steering column has to come out to cut off the 10mm bolt holding the ELS into place. But all it needs is to take off the surround of the gauges and the kick plate at the bottom. The top two bolts can be taken out with a long extension and a universal joint. Take off the two lower bolts with the correct Torx, take off the ELS electric connector and then pull the whole assembly off WITH steering wheel, air bag, dust bag and wiper/cruise control bits intact. Pull it towards you diagonally thru that small gap. No need to separate the splines at the universal as it can lead to disasters of hammering steel splines into an alu universal. Unless you have a very small electric cutting disc for your angle grinder to cut off the bolt, you can look forward to two hours with a hacksaw. To get rid of any edges stopping me from getting the ELS out, I had to use small cone- or ball-shaped grinding disks.
Aliexpress sells a handle with a small thread to pull out the four pins in a clock-wise direction. The pins can be hammered back in. I drilled mine out, which made a mess inside. As it is not easy to put a new 10mm bolt in to attach the ELS to the column, allow the ELS to be safely attached somewhere. The locking will not work any more. In 10 years time, that Chinese motor will have burnt out again allowing for an easy replacement. Aliexpress also sells that cylindrical tool should you need to remove the ignition lock if you decide not to fix the ELS yourself, you will have to send the dead ELS plus ignition lock plus key to a locksmith, who can give you a recon. unit, but a different unit has to be matched electronically with the NEC security chip in the ELS. If he/she fixes your unit, it does not need a sync.
@@dominicwild3189 What should I search to find this handle to pull out the four pins? Thanks so much for your help!
@@wtmontell Have one to sell. Bought lots of.motors as the virus in China made deliveries uncertain. Or look for ESL motors at AliExpress and you will find the handle or grind an old screwdriver to four planes with square end. Contact me on domwild at Hotmail dot com.
Great video. I decided to purchase a replament Module from Main dealer. They provided a progam key to code the new unit to the old key. I also had a coolant leak so I paid a mobile mechanic to fix both faults. He manged to replace the ESL with out dismantling the steering column.
fantastic friend...im glad u got it sorted it really is a shame that w204s have this issue my w203 is 20 yold and never fails
excellent video dude...i actually got mine done by a specialist key cutter..it was 1500....i wish i saw this video first ...it was only 3 months ago .....oh well if it happens again i know where to look...what you have done is nothing short of amazing...so your not a mechanic??...you should consider it as a part time job..you def have the mindset and skill set...most people i know would never attempt this, just not willing to try and too scared of breaking something, which is what the specialist told me
great vlog bud, i was stuck with same problem today and after confirming that my battery was good i started looking for more info regarding this problem. saw your video and applied your tap/bang/mallet theory in my own way 😂😂. i basically had the key in on position and tried moving steering left to right against the lock 3-4 times and it sort of "reset" motor contact i believe. its working now and i have ordered in a new motor to replace next week. Dealer cost was 599$ for parts and 800$ for labor + taxes, which will now be taken care of now for only 11$. thanks for the great vlog, helped me save some decent coin.
glad to hear it mate ... well done
OMG thank you so much for posting this video,my GLK 350 key wouldn't start my car and the dealer said it would be about $2000 to fix it,I took a rubber hammer and topped the steering lock 2 times and the car started with the key again,you are the man, God bless you for this video 🙏
How long did that trick last? Or did you get it fixed?
the trick will only last a few times as eventually he esl will give out, its really only works during the earlier stages of the malfunction...hence why i say you need to fix it aap, but the trick will work if its just starting to fail... i do not recommend to keep doing it and hoping it will keep working....its most defiitely a teporary solution to ensuring you can get home and not get stuck wherever you are
I recently experienced ESL failure (unlocked thankfully) while pumping gas, and this video saved my ass. It sucked because I had JUST bought the vehicle less than two weeks prior (2010 C300)…the only deviation from the video was that I had to drill out the pins on the ESL component, but everything else was pretty straightforward. Thanks for the help!!
well done mate
Thanks to you, I was able to successfully complete this repair for $13. In my GLK350, i had to take another step and unhook the steering column to get to the ESL. I then couldn’t get those pins out no matter what (even with a T5), so I drilled them out with a small bit. I had to reconnect the casing with electrical tape, but I am pretty sure it will hold up. Thanks for the video! It saved me over $900 from the quoted repair at the dealership!
well done mate I'm so happy for u co co graduations for reals good on ya mate two fkn thumbs up bro
Does the steering lock work as it normally would? As in the wheel is locked until the key is inserted and recognized. Mechanic wants to charge $1700 which is insane. At least if I have to remove the steering column I can go ahead and rewrap my steering wheel.
Yes, it works just as originally designed. There is no benefit I can see of getting a mechanic or dealership to do it. It is like new and basically free to fix.
this is why i strongly recommend for you to take on the task and do it yourself... even if u only remove the part and have it fixed it will only cost u 500 not 1700
@@knoxvillain6735 When you first encountered the issue did the info screen display please remove key?
Wow thanks so much bro. You should change your name to Mikey the man ... your tutorial gave me the confidence to tackle this job on my own .. awesome attention to detail and explanation 👏 👌
OMG! your Camera placement is awesome!! You really wanted to do this video. Two big thumbs up for going through all this trouble!! Thank you!!
thank you for watching and taking the time to comment .... i hope it helps u out ...and i hope if u havent subscribed yet that u will consider in order to help me thrive and make more videos like this
Shout out to you Mikey...You gave me the push to go forward with this job. I feel like a certified Mercedes Technician...lol. I got the pins out by drilling a threaded nail in it and pulling it out. I destroyed one, but it only really need 3. I would like to add one more important tip to your tutorial. When you are putting that circuit board back in place. Do not smash it down before pressing the left bottom on the board in. If not, it rest on a metal piece on the bottom case that can potentially break it if you smash it down. It was a close call...But I got it DAWG!! Thanks!! Keep in touch and GOOD LUCK to you in the future!!
good tip mate congratulations friend ..I'm so happy you could do it .... well done
Just did this last night. Thank you very much for the video. Mine was actually stuck in the locked position. We removed the unit and drilled a small hole that we used to access the gear. We were able simulate the gear into the unlocked position. Had no issues with a frying of the chip. One thing to note would be the pins to remove were very difficult even with the tool provided with the kit. We ended up just drilling them out slightly. May make the car easier to steal, but if someone wants the car that bad they can have it. lol. Took a long time to disassemble and reassemble.
good job mate.. well done .. im glad it all worked out ... thats is a way u can do it ... but good on ya for doing the job yourself..i take my hat off to you... i always said if this happens again im getting an emulator as less movingnparts and no motor means no failure...
Hey so when you put it back together u set it to lock position before connectint ir back to the car?
@@aidas901 ya we set it back to locked
Mikey I see a fix that would have made the steering wheel shaft removal easier for me. The steering wheel must be in the push-in position before any disassembly. So pushed in , I'm tall so the shaft is pulled out for me. Easier to remove it from its area and probably why it was so hard for me to remove the ESL. Knowledge is power. I thank you very much brother.
u r most welcome dear friend
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ I had to take it apart again. After installation of everything I left the key as instruction but the esl did not lock after removing the key. My assumption is that I may have a defective *%*# DC motor, There is no chance of removing my esl without removing the steering column on my car. There is a box over surrounding the esl maybe the cars you work on does not have this box around. So I would have to remove the &%$#@ whole column again. It's very upsetting that this ESL failure is not neglect of the driver but a manufacture defect. There should be a recall on this crap. I'm located in Canada c class 350 2008
You are awesome I just finished it and it works! I had trouble finding a torque wrench long enough to take out the dash. So I skipped that step and still was able to do it! Thank you very much :)
Kool bro
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ was your new motor also much louder?
@@deanzion23 no actually same.or maybe even quieter
I must of gotten a defective one or maybe I did something wrong. Its super loud. Im thinking that I might just remove it from the stirring column but keep it connected electrically, since it looks like there are two buttons on the board inside the esl that when pressed give a signal for the car to start. 🧐
Thank to your explanation I was able to knock it and it started working again. The battery was going hence the jam occurred. I changed out battery with new as well. Thanks keep up the good.
u welcome mate my pleasure
Hi MIKEYZ,
Thanks for help from Melbourne. When I turn the geared wheel in the ESL there appears to be binding happening, which may be a cause of the motor stopping and later burning out. This is why your "hitting trick" works. Lithium grease has been suggested as it helps for plastic on steel and steel on steel.
I have also worked out why it needs the pushing back of TWO grey pins of the limit switches during the addition of the motor/circuit board: The ESL can only be installed again with the locking pin of the steering lock to be retracted. In that position, both pins meet the posts and have to be depressed.
Aliexpress is selling that motor by the tens and the tool with a handle to hammer in to pull out the four pins of the ESL with a pulling and clock-wise rotation (RUclips) plus the cylindrical tool to take out the ignition lock plus the ESL US$3.75 motor. But no longer (Jan/Feb 2020). Had to buy the motor locally as Chinese postage system is not working due to the virus. Looks like Merc used that Chinese motor already in 2007 for my W204 C220.
With your trick of hitting the ESL and getting it going one last time you must have also shut up the NEC security chip to stop the system altogether. I was not that lucky and had to take out the column to cut off the 10mm mounting bolt on the ESL as the steering was locked. There is a suggestion, that having started it too many times with failing motor, the NEC chip for security reason disables the lot and I and many others will have to take out the EIS/EZS (ignition) and ESL and key and get someone to sync it again. Or get an emulator and expert help.
Later models of Merc no longer lock the steering as it is unnecessary and in America the owners of older Mercs are talking class action as most had the vehicle stopped in distant places, had to have them towed to stealerships and then got hit with a US$1200 bill plus towing.
Where did you hear the news of class action? I used the heavy impact trick to get ESL unlocked from locked situation. so I can get mounting bolt pushed in. After that I replaced the motor and now the ESL does not respond. Do I need to find someone to sync the ESL and EIS?
@@arnoldyan8265 very concerning about your story? Have you got it to work eventually?
Excellent tutorial mate... Another Merc W204 fixed thanks to your work.. In addition I could add that IF the module is unable to come out of its place in the steering column, the column should be dismounted and a 3mm hole can be drilled very carefully on the side of the module precisely by the side of the gear and once the plastic gear teeth are visible the gear wheel can be winded back manually via picking tool or a small flat screw driver. This will unlock the module bolt completely. Also we found this sharp tool pretty useless and had to drill the pins with 3 mm drill bit. The assembly after that is possible with a nice cable tie and a few windings of isolation tape. When it is inserted back in to the column it is pretty tight in place. Well done and respect for the priceless help !
well done and yeah its sometime a pain with the scrwws for the esl
Je suis en plein réparation, je voudrais savoir comment sortir l'esl en position verrouillée sans cramer la puce. Est ce qu'il faut déconnecter la batterie ou comment ..., Merci d'avance
Thank you for this video!, you are really a excellent technician.
aww thanks for saying that but funny part is i have no experience at all on these jobs i just taught myself through online videos and research ..... i just wanted to show that if someone like me with no experience can do ..so can u...hope u can show your support and subscribe thanks matey
I did 2 over this weekend in Jamaica...🙏🏾🙏🏾💯🇯🇲
Good stuff
Hi, Marlon. Could you please give me your link, email or any other contact?
Mike, thank you for a great informative video. Quick question: Once you have replaced the little electric motor - do you need to program the EIS and the key, or can you simply replace the motor and it will work like it should?
no programming no syncing it will work by simply reinstalling everything back in, programmin is only needed when the chip fails needing new programming and csuncing to to suit the car
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ Thank you sir, your video is very instructional! Much appreciated.
@@macjohnw7870 ur welcome
Thank you so much again for the detailed explanation and tutorial man! I finally went ahead and replaced the motor after first watching your video 2 years ago. This job is actually not too bad but it definitely takes some patience. Just some things that I thought I'd add:
1. I didn't take off the instrument cluster and there was enough room for me to work with
2. Super helpful to have someone hold the steering wheel while the other person is on the breaker bar. Retighten the wheel at 80NM or 59 ft lbs
3. After disconnecting the battery, let the car sit for about 30 min - 1hr to ensure all the electricity leaves the vehicle. This is most important for the airbag to ensure it doesn't deploy by accident.
more then welcome
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ Also just wondering after you replaced the motor, does the steering wheel have some play in it, when its in the parked position? After I insert the key, the amount of play is the same. I can't remember if my wheel had no play at all before I did the ESL motor fix. I drove my car and everything feels fine. Thanks!
@@MTSLFilms well yes wheel will be same as before ..as long as u reinsert it correctly .... small play is ok but not too much it slips off
I finally understand all this stuff about the esl ..before watching your video all i knew was that it was a common fault...now i get it
Tip: Before removing the steering wheel, mark the steering column and the inside of the steering wheel with a Sharpie so you can line them back up properly when you put things back together. I had to remove the steering wheel twice to straighten things back up.
good idea .... very good strategy and tips mate good on ya for mentioning ... sometimes I forget that some ppl will have no experience at all ... so this is a great tip for any amature DIYer
The only work I had ever done on the car before was to change the COMAND knob post, which had broken. I am not so much into doing car repair as I am trying to not pay the high price of repair at the dealership. And of course, I love it when everything is working like new, even in a 9 year old car. Thanks so much for making it possible for us newbies!
@@knoxvillain6735 well done mate that's why I started this channel to show other w204 owners that if someone like me without a mechanical mind and experience can do it so can others too... well done on taking up the task and trying ... I take my hat off to you for giving it a go and succeeding friend..that's what it's all about ...saving money and encouraging DIY
.....Remove key.....Steering column adjustment sharp up/down movement ....ESL re-engaged......Love from Ireland..
great stuff
Mike from Portugal my thanks to your video. I follow it and I was able to repair my w204 in perfection.
Again many thanks to you
very good mate well done
Awesome video. Appreciate you taking the time to post it. I’m just hoping these are the same steps for a w211 lol.
That tip about hitting the ESL with a rubber hammer to see if it jogs the motor into life has just saved me a load of money and a load of hassle. What a legend.
@Austin Powers Mine carried on working for just under two months but then it it went again and this time no hitting it would solve it so I took the steering column out, cut the bolt holding the ESL in place and replaced the motor in it. I'm now using the ESL the same as if it was an emulator so no steering lock.
@Austin Powers yes, only by following youtube videos. Total cost for the repair was about £7 for the new motor. Getting the steering column out wasn't too difficult a job. If I'd known the repair would have gone so well, I would have changed the motor before it completely failed and needed a tow truck to get me home.
@@davelee-00 you change yourself the motor this no need reprogramming after this?
@@benolazaj4961 there is no need to reprogram it because it is only the motor that has changed.
@@davelee-00 so I will try myself thanks
Dude I want to give you 1000 likes if I can, it just happened to me when I was outside. I smack the hell out of the wheel and it worked lol thank god
so happy for u mate
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ question for you ..what if you changed out the battery while this condition was occurring....have I eliminated the possibility of getting the esl to unlock without having to physically remove it from it's location by cutting that bolt?
did u unlock the car first them remove battery or did u just remove battery without steering unlocked
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ not for sure but I assume it was in the lock position because at that point I time I knew nothing of the esl or n.e.thing beyond the car wouldn't start...stuck in park...battery looked kind of old and the auto parts store said it would not take a charge it was bad...( Now I know it prolly wasn't...none the less a new battery has been installed )am I doomed?
@@TamaraCMoore no your not, as i stated theres always a way to unblock it whether it s more involved or u just go the route of an emulator, but if you were hoping to tackle this with the esl unlocked, u can still try a few things, like tap the steering column underneath and see if you can insert key and get the esl to spin unlocked, if all else fails u can drill a small hole and manually turn the esl motor , another is the esl emulator, where u buy an emulator and send off your keys and ignition and they will code the esl emulator to suit your car and all u do is plug and play, its also better for the long run, and u never have to worry about the steering locking , takes away steering lock but the safety is still there cuz u still need a key to start your car, see how u go , try tapping your column and inserting key, u might be lucky to get it to spin one last rotation then u disconnect battery , and u can do it
Thanks for a great couple of videos on this fix, they helped a lot. Mine was failing now and then. The old motor and circuit board in the ESL were even tarnished from the motor overheating. It was well worth a clean up and motor replacement before total failure. Its been all good since!
well done mate good stuff..thats what its all about... if i can help even just one person its all worth it to me... but im glad so many ppl are getting good use put of my videos
Big thanks for the video. I don’t have a problem yet on my 2011 C200 but it seems it’s just a matter of time based on forums etc. I appreciate the education. You’re da man!
Glad it helped
How do I know the ESL is unlocked? Is it unlocked when the steering wheel is unlocked? Or do I need to hear that noise it makes usually when i put the key in?
u need to hear the noise ..however im not too sure if having the steering unlocked necessarily means the esl is unlocked friend
My w212- 2015 has unlocked steering wheel all the time. No "noice" when i put in the key or when i take it out. But i can start and drive as usual, works perfekt. But steerinwheel is never locked. Is the motor in that module broken?
u wou assume so mite be a good idea to get a scan done first too so u can narrow down or find the source of the actual issue..but definitely seems like it's the motor ..its no longer spinning to allow the steering wheel to lock
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ Code is A25646 "Electric steering lock ..........."
@@dominicwild3189 that would be the esl module motor common fault with these cars
Lucky your US$5 motor did not push the locking pin out any more and froze in the unlocked position. Glad you can still start.
Lucky your motor failed in the unlocked position, mine locked, so I have to cut the bolt attaching the ESL to the column. The scan will show error A25646 "Steering wheel .........." and will show the motor has gone west.
Great video bud!!! excellent tutorial, I can tell you thought of every detail and I commend you for that!
hi pedro thanks for saying that I tried to think of everything be sure to watch part 2 for the rest
Best video Mikeyz, I did the take with the hammer and my car started but I will remove and dismantle the ESL this week .
good stuff mate ... im glad it worked out for u .... and hope u get urs sorted asap.... well done for taking on the task
You hit the top of the steering wheel with hammer?
It would help if you showed the exact unlocking procedure for the esl. Thats the most important part
Its just turn the key. Or are you looking for something else?
Turn the key.. See if wheel is free.. If not try again.
Ive added links in the description for those who want to buy the part and special tools
hey guys so i realized in this video i forgot to show how to remove the 13mm nut that secures the ESL to the steering column , however it is in part 2 i show exactly how i removed it..be sure to watch part 2 if your wondering how i did it....when reassembling the ESL module a very important step is to make sure that on the circuit board there are 2 grey looking button switches..you need to ensure these are pressed in so that the circuit board will sit correctly..if not you can cause damage quite easily... as well as all the other parts of the module..attention to detail is the most important..take your time and you will be able to do this...NO PROGRAMMING IS NEEDED IF YOU ARE ONLY REPLACING THE MOTOR .. all the best to everyone who attempts this fix..
Where is part 2
@@Abhijeetkapadi17 hi friend you will find it in my w204 list youll see it just search for it or ill leave a link for you to here you go ruclips.net/video/kt9aDgx9NAY/видео.html
So youdont programing the esl
I have the same problem
@@juanca122480 no if it is just your motor that has broken or malfunctioned..you do not need to program anything ..you can simply replace the motor a d put it all back together and all will be well.... however if you manage to dry your NEC CHIP or forget to press on the two little grey button switches then there is a chance you can damage the module and then may need reprogramming.... but no you dont need to re-sync or reprogram if you are just replacing the esl module motor... however if your fault is related to your circuit board or your EIS malfunctioning then you will definitely need to have it reprogrammed...
Good vid - thanks. For those who CBF or just don't want to attempt this, if you live in Sydney, go to Motech Autokey and he'll install an emulator and leave the ESL in there, assuming it hasn't failed in the locked position. Emulator will never fail. It took him 45 minutes to install it in my W207. It cost a quarter of what the dealer quoted me.
thanks mate much appreciated. thanks. sharing ....
Dude you are the man. I am AAA roadside assistance in South CA I had just now as I writing this comment 2012 MB GLK 350 ESL issue. To solve or better understanding I was just researching on RUclips. I came a cross your video. In 3:17 you said just tab on it, and I just did tab on the steering wheel with plastic hammer. Man it worked wow she was super happy my member OMG. I got it going. Thanks you so much dude.
ur welcome mate so glad you got it going ...but also remember thats for special circumstances ..not all cases will work this way.. depends on the situation also
Yes, we must thank MIKEYZ for his great video. If you still have her mobile (cell), make sure she gets the ELS fixed ASAP as the motor slowly burns out. I believe I had two or three chances.
I recommend this movie! It works 100% It is important to pay attention to all the details that the author explains in great detail. In my country the same trick to fake mechanics works with 300-500 euros. We solved this problem much cheaper and simpler with about 10 euros. Thank you very much to the uploader and I challenge him if reading this message can help us with a repair for the headlights, more precisely the short beam illuminates very badly probably because of the mirror in the smoked headlight. Can find a cleaning method. Thanks again, especially for the accuracy of the details.
HEY BUDDY Thank you for your kind words....im no mechanic but i can definitely try and help you ..i appreciate the comments and am always here to try help my subscribers and will do my best ..... so if you can send me a pic of what your trying to do with abit more explanation i will see what advice i can give to help you
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ I have a problem with the headlights more precisely on the short beam. When I bought the car a year and a half ago, the short phase was below the safety limit for me. I used better light bulbs (Osram Nightbreaker) and slightly improved the problem but it is not safe. I tried some H7 led bulbs from Aliexpres, which were very well rated. After replacement the results were very poor. Later when I moved the LED bulbs in the long beam I found that the LED bulbs are super good, the problem of my headlights being the mirror behind the lens. You can find a method of cleaning that mirror or maybe a tutorial on disassembling the headlight. Thank you
P.S. I have normal headlights with 2 h7 bulbs adn i use google translate, i hope u understand.
@@MrGeorgeSuciu oh yes so is the reflection inside you headlight a problem? is it a adjustment issue?? maybe you need to adjust tthe beam, they can be adjusted low and higher for better beam pattern and you can see more light and clearer at night...i will be a doing a video on how to open headlight..so u have the normal halogen lights no bi-xenon??
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ normal halogen 2xH7. I think is reflector the problem. Maybe a disasembly for headlight will be wonderfull.
@@MrGeorgeSuciu ok
P.s mikey, it would be great if you could write tools and sizes used from beginning (hex and torx etc) in the description so we know what to have ready and what to start with?
ye my apologies for that i thought that u would be able to see the tools i use in the videos and know ehat to use .. but definitely a good idea to help others know where and what to start with
Looks like E12 Torx for the four bolts of column to chassis.
Steering wheel uses a 10mm Imbus hex socket or simply any 10mm hex will do.
T40 Torx for the bolt at the spline at the bottom end.
@@dominicwild3189 thanks!! 🍻
@@dominicwild3189 good on ya mate for sharing this
Forgotten the Torx for the two bolts on the surround below the steering wheel, use torch and then judge, it is definitely a smaller one.
You are the best , detail so clear and you are so good with camera (firm ) thank you
thanks friend ..i really do try to do my best to cover all areas ... thanks for the kind words
Top man I just done this on my car worked a treat 👍👍👍👍
Observation: Don’t freak out if you get it all back together, put the key in and nothing happens. As the lock is in the unlocked position when installed, you will have to remove the key to lock it back, then reinsert it to unlock and start the car.
good tip
@@Pedrobett no programming needed
Yes, exact same experience, and then perfect function since.
I'm quite speechless the way you breakdown the detailed information of this handy exercise .
Its excellent you just empowered myself and most RUclipsrs man, You're AWESOME my brother.
Many Thanks!!
thank u my friend im glad u enjoyed it and thanks for checking out my video
Great explanation n direction love the channel
Think I’m going to have to tackle this repair this week on a 2008 C250. Cheers for an awesome video. Fingers crossed!
You can do it! just take your time
After I changed my motor I did not bolt the unit back where it belongs I just left it hanging on top of the plastic cover under the dash. That way my steering wheel will never lock which is actually pretty good for me and there is never any load on the locking pin and if I want to access it ever again it only takes three little screws and it just falls out straight down. Prior to changing the motor I was having some issues where the motor would get stuck so I drilled a tiny hole via the big wheel and I just rotated the wheel manually gently with a very flat head screwdriver. Tapping has helped in the past as well
well done good thinking and thanks for sharing your findings it really helps others trying to do the same task ...i take my hat off to you
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ Would it be necessary then to change the motor at all I wonder?
@@dominicwild3189 if u dont want to have to do that in order to be able to starr ur car then it is a must ... i guess its dependant each persons own needs and capabilities... personally id rather have my car functioning correctly then not ...but each to their own.... for me i consider it a hassle to have to do that if my car didnt start due to esl malfunction ... but thats just me ... if my esl fails again im going the route of an emulator as it no longer has a motor that can malfunction... thats just me.... about 450 aud to solve this issue including new emulator and programming ... solving the issue of loving parts and the motor failing
Great idea! In my case I had to cut that 10mm bolt and that bolt cannot be replaced easily, so I am going to do the same thing like you. That will give me 13 years peace before that motor burns out again!
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ well isn't the point of the esl to lock the steering column to prevent theft? So there is some value in having it function properly
Hey, Mikey. I’ve been reading blogs/tutorials all day and came across yours.
I’m having trouble with my 2010 Mercedes-Benz C300. 95,000 miles. Here are the symptoms so far.
I’m able to unlock my car with the keys. I get inside and put the keys in the ignition and try to crank it up. Nothing happens at all except for the “remove keys from ignition” on the dashboard. The radio or lights do not come in unless I manually turn them on. I’m able to move the steering wheel left and right. Wheel is heavy but still manage to move it a bit. Try to crank it up while moving the wheel at the same time and nothing. I’ve checked the battery and tried jumping it from another car and that didn’t work. I’ve checked all the fuses and they’re all ok. Lastly, I got out of the car and press the “panic” button on my keys and entered the key into the ignition and the alarm stops.
From all these symptoms & trial and errors that I found online, what do you think is the problem? The ESL? Steering column? I’m completely lost and don’t want to spend $1000+ at the mechanic. Any input would be do appreciated. Thanks so much and greetings from Florida, USA.
definitely the esl mate everything u described happened to me aswell to a T .... if ur not comfortable doing this yourself as u can cause more issues as in ruin the chip as i explained ... best thing i recommend is to remove the esl module and the eis yourself and then send it off to have it fixed ..this way it will only cost u 300 max ... do not pay more then 400 seeing as u are doing all the work ..ur just getting a specialist to fix the esl module by either replacing the motor and also testing it to make sure all is well and the eis reads the esl again.... this is what i strongly recommend ..especially if u arent comfy doing the actual electronic work...and mechanically removing the parts also....
I spent today removing the ESL & EIS. Your videos are amazing! I struggled with the ESL as I couldn’t see its exact location and screw etc but got it all done. Thanks for the help!
@@adgmuniz well done im glad my videos could help u out
man... so many thanks...
just happen to me tonight, and took me 45min to take it apart.
I did not even had to take the driving wheel and all apart, you can reach the 4 "inverted" torx from under (i've got small hands)
Just waiting for the replacement parts to arrive, so exited !!
[EDIT]
Parts and tool received !
- Opening the grey casing was not as smooth as shown in video but I could manage
- Electrical motor shows burning marks : that has to be the cause of break down. Replacement is super quick
- Closing the grey casing is ok, when you have read the video description telling you to press the switches on when closing the lid
- Plugged back in the car for testing : Youhou !!! it works !
- Putting everything back together : 30min
I confirm there is no need to remove the driving wheel, airbag, display, and other thinks on the top.
Doing everything from the bottom is ok, on your back, under the driving wheel, good lighting, lots of patience as you say, a few good tools but nothing fancy (and small hands lol)
New motor bought on amazon is a lot more noisy, but I'm so happy to have my car back it removes the inconvenient
Many thanks again
I got fat hands lol
Hi, so once you put in the new motor, you don't have to recalibrate the ignition? Thanks to all for their hard work. I appreciate it
Hi there
Just want to give u a huge THANK YOU.
Your video gave me the knowledge and confidence to tackle my ESL.
thanks mate ..I appreciate it
The ESL have plastic gears inside, the teeth gets worn.
Can you just not put the ESL module back into its housing on the steering column, and just have it hanging somewhere?
Hello, have you done it ?
Fantastc tutorial .... keep up the good work
Outstanding video. Thank you it was extremely helpful.
most welcome
I'm beginnimg to regret buying this car. Such a hassle.
i feel ur pain but if u try and do some research and five some issues a go u may be surprises of some thing u can fix urself... just gotta give it a go to a certain extent ... but only try things u know u can stuff up or u can cause more damage.... but i do undsrstand what ur saying..imho if i had known all these issues existed i may not have bought ome either..but i always wanted a w204
They’re actually quite reliable once you get past the annoying issues. Mine has 268k miles and still running strong
@@issanesheiwat1396 glad you said that. I have a G too and was a little worried that I probably made a bad decision in having two Mercedes.
@@issanesheiwat1396 yes its all about how you maintain it and preventative maintrnance also... theres only so much u can do but its still worth it to me especially if u learn some tricks and diy
@@issanesheiwat1396 have you changed the suspension on your car? I'm at 160,000 miles and it's much rougher ride now.
I don’t think you showed when you took off the 13mm bolt that attaches to the ESL. Great video though! I have a motor and a tool on the way and preparing to replace it soon. Wish me luck.
its in part 2 dear friend...wish you ll the luck in the world ... some ppl have tried and failed but its all about attention to detail..and sometimes its just a matter of luck..sometimes it seems to be the motor but then it turns out that it is the chip or relay... but most of the time its the motor... however ive heard other ppl say that it may need re syncing and some even say they dont..i know with mine i replaced it and i was good togo.... if you read some comments some have had success with no issues just a simple swap and others have had issues.... but the issue is most likely needing re syncing... i wish you all the luck iin the world...check out part 2 and you'll see how to remove the bolt
i also hope you can subscribe to my channel and help build this channel for all w204 lovers
Oh thanks, I actually just watched it, haha. I had an ESL fail about a month ago and just about had it towed before it worked on its own again. It’s been fine, but I’m glad I did the research and will try to install a new motor before for it fails for good. Thanks again!
@@Hammondbrass im.glad theres many ways u can try to remove the 13mm nut but this is the easiest for me and i have big hands ... just a simple thumb ratchet and bam your good to go.... .... thank very much for visiting i hope u will sub and visit me again .... all the best mate....
Thanks for showing this well described action.
ur most welcome dear friend
Thank you, your video explains it really well.
your very welcome i hope oyu can show your support and subscribe ... afterall this channel was made for youguys in hopes i can share some knowledge
Love the channel good work
Thanks for the great instruction. My vehicle is doing exactly what you diagnosed as the problem. I need a reverse torx bit which I will get on Monday and will then attempt the repair. I will let you know how it goes.
excellent to hear i encourage diy as to help save money and keep it in your pocket welcome to the channel and hope you enjoy the content
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ Hey Mikey. I replaced the motor today and reinstalled the ESL. Works perfectly. Thank you for your excellent instructions of this fix. Saved me a fortune in repair shop costs. The biggest issue in the whole process was one of the 4 pins to split the box was a bugger to remove. Anyway finally got it out. The whole process took about 3 hours but I went very slowly to make sure a followed your exact instructions. Thank you
@@theovonbardeleben2725 well done buddy i applaud u for doing it yourself and saving yourseld a ton of money as we all know this is an exspesive fix
excellent video now i can fix mine thank you
I have the same case, thank's a lot for sharing, Mikey..
Best repair video ive seen!!
thanks mate appreciate u saying so
very good video helped me out heaps i thought my car was dead
Bro, you are good! thanks for the best instruction video in youtube.😊
welcome
great job bro great job.
great video thanks for sharing mikey
your video helped me a lot, i fix a case the same as your video, it was just the ESL motor that got stuck, in addition as a tip, you dont need to remove the steering wheel, neither the instrument panel, just remove the lower cover, then remove the 2 back torx d12 bolts, and loosen the 2 front d12 torx bolts so it can give you enought space on the steering column to remove the ESL, then you just push the steering wheel upwards to have space on the steering column, thanks again mikeyz
it seems your advice is very simple. How many mintues to take out the motor of ESL.
@@wfsin about an hour, but it can be done in less time now with experience
alberto yamamoto Well noted with thanks!
alberto yamamoto 1. That mean it must ensure the ESL is in unlock position and disconnect negative point of the battery (how to know in unlock position of ESL)?
2. Whether we will just remove the four bolts (T12)holding the column, lower it, then loosen the 13 mm nut holding ESL, push the bolt in and pull it out, right?
@@wfsin
1 yes it must be unlocked (if you can turn the steering wheel.. its unlocked) and yes you disconect the battery
2. thats correct
Thank you for your fast reply my questions.
your most welcome friend
What battery booster did you use? Im thinking of getting the dewalt 1400 amp. I have a 2010 e-class coupe. It started with the intermittently reading the key and I would have to hit the key a few times for the car to start. Now it won't read the key at all.
definitely sounds like esl problem or maybe eis but most common is the esl fault..I got the cheap battery jumper portable from Ebay about 40usd shipped to tour door
You have made this big issue easy to fix. Thank you for all the efforts. I just changed my ESL motor from aliexpress and it’s working fine.
Please tell me how many years I can drive without having to change the motor again. Thanks 🙏
should last at least 2 years but these things malfunction out of the blue its hard to say
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ Thanks Mike 🤟🏻
Great video . My symptoms are similar though not the same . Maybe mine is just EIS ? i will confirm at a later date once fixed. After many non starts key in key out it sprung into life . So i have done the battery disconnect method . Though before that with the engine on , i switched the engine off (click back one) but not removed so all lights stayed illuminated . I then tried to fire up the engine and nothing happened. lights still illuminated . So i have clicked it back to just hand brake light on and have removed the battery. By doing this i assume the steering lock is now off but will it start again . It hasn't so far Does this point to EIS rather than ESL fault ?
Man I Just want say thank you very much, thanks to you video I saved 1200 US dollar.
u r welcome
Excellent post. Thank you.
most welcome friend
Man you’re so good at explaining things
thanks mate..ur too kind
Very informative
Thanks
welcome to the channel friend i hope u can subscribe if you haven't already .... it would mean the world to me ...and you are so welcome
I would like to give you a 1000 likes as your video solved my problem and saved me few hundred pounds. Thanks a lot
most welcome im just very happy it helped u out ...that's thanks enough for me buddy
Than you man This video save me Lots of money.
Im so gladnur welcome
Hi Mike. Not sure if you are still checking comments, I am about to fix the ESL on friends C300. However plan to replace the ESL with emulator, I assume still need to remove old ESL? Thanks
actually no u dont, if u use an emulator only need to unplug the plug that plugs into esl and plug that into your new module bypass esl emmulator and honestly just mount it with strong adhesive double sided tapre and your good ..u dont have to remove the esl unless u want to mount in the same spot, but u really dont need to u can just leave ity and mount it elsewhere(emmulator)
and of course i still check lol
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ Thank you!
This is Soooo Good! Thanks
thanks mate really appreciate the support
excellent video man, very detailed and explanations are easy to follow. can u give a link where to get that special tool to remove those pins on the ESL. YOU ARE THE MAN
I got from aliexpress but ebay sell too
Thanks for the video bro
Brilliant, just brilliant. Cheers man.
no thank u bud.. I appreciate u
Hello, when you go up the elv engine, the position must be the same as the disassembly? How do you do if the position is no longer the same? will it work at startup? Thanks for your answers. Jean
In my case the lock sticks out and looking at the ELS side-on, both grey pins of the two limit switches just touch the posts. Hope that helps?
I just bought a 2011 C300. Is there any way to tell if it has already had the ESL replaced? Also any idea if 2011s (pre-FL) are affected or is it limited to mostly earlier models of the car?
unfortunately not .... i think it goes up to 2012 ..dont take my word for it though.... ill try and find out exactly for you.... congrads on the purchase its a lovely car
Hi, thanks for your nice videos, so valuable! The other day, after having fueled the car, my 204 shortly cranked the motor, but then it died out completely,. After that, no reaction to the key whatsoever. About 5 minutes later, it could start, luckily. Could the esl cause this general failure, even when the starter motor cranked at first?
hey mate firstly thanks for ur kind words... sorry to hear ur issue ..spunds very much like the esl could .be starting to fail
Great video! I hope I can get it done your way.
Thanks! :)
welcome ..u can do it as long as u follow everything u can do it friend