Before mig welders were so common in home garages, this was our best option for rust repair. My failures were always due to improper prep. That mechanical bond is crucial. And clean metal can be too smooth without prepwork.
There's a lot of folks that get their cars/trucks inspected and want a quick type fix that can be done in the drive way - this is one of those. Thanks for checking it out PVC - have a great weekend my friend :)
I once did the whole floor in the van section of a 1970 Ford class c RV that was owned by my boss. Epoxy or polyester resin? Either way it'll be as solid as a welded in metal patch. That RV was still being used till about ten years ago. Nice job!
At about 2:19, it looks like there was still a bit of surface rust (and you didn't apply any sort of rust inhibitor) before you applied the resin and glass. Does that mean it's OK to leave a little bit of rust? In other words, does the resin effectively encapsulate that remaining rust so it won't come back?
Yes, it's OK. Of course it would be nice to have all the rust gone but it won't hurt. I think, like you said, it will "seal" it in there. Rust isn't like "alive" - in other words, it doesn't continue to grow when it's encapsulated.
I use fiberglass mat with kbs rust seal in my trunk floor and it’s held up great for years takes longer to dry and is a little bit more flexible so that helps perhaps you can try that sometime with a moisture cured urethane like kbs, por15, chassis saver or the like
Interesting - thanks for the information. I'll look into trying it one day Dennis. How long did you wait to apply that coating after the glass. Thanks for checking out the video.
@@LakesideAutobody I used the coating as the resin it works great. Por15 sells kits to fix floor mans and that’s what you do. You don’t need fiberglass resin just the por15 or the like and you coat the metal then press the Matt into the coating and coat over top with the por15. Then let it dry. I use kbs instead of por15 however
Try some por-15 and some milled glass fibers for fiberglass mixed in the paint for strength. Even chop up some fiberglass cloth into little shreds and add it in the paint. Works great!
Lol, I did that ~7 years ago, but I had big holes to fill after I removed the nasty. Fiperglass is too flexible to cover large holes, so my base layer was a PBR box! I coated it with resin on both sides for weather protection, then 2 lyers of 'glass, and after the resin cured I sprayed undercoating outside & brushed Rustoleum inside. Lasted (at least) until death of my XJ when it got t-boned 😢 other than the missing passeger side floorboard it was rust free!
@@LakesideAutobody yup. I didn't finish the 12 pack before I finished...quick, easy, and after the carpet was reinstalled no one knew. i have a welder, I could have "done it right", but...i really did it right. It was my DD, I expected that eventually someone would smash it. That's what happened, as I predicted, and my repairs lasted as long as it did.
Hey maybe try this "goo" i created. 😂 Well maybe not,im sure others have. I had a battery tray that had some rust holes, and instead of doing fiberglass and resin ,i just skipped the 2 part resin and substituted in POR-15. Yup, lay down your cloth over the hole and apply paint. Need more strength? Mix in some milled fibers into the paint. I put the cloth on, painted it ,let ut cure and came back with a thick coat of por-15 mixed with milled fiber. Itll take a xouple days to cure up good ,the thicker it is ,but after a kuttle bit of paintable undercoating and a semi gloss black top coat it looks good as new. Should last a while too as i beadblasted the metal first. When ya aint got time to mix resin to patch a hole its worked for me a few times.
I'm odd in that like you I do rust repair & mechanical repairs - most don't. Rust repair is the toughest gig going, it's why few want to do it - it's pretty horrendous work most of the time if you do it as a profession, daily. Coal mining would be easier. Caveat to that is most mechanical repairs are like a holiday in comparison to repairing rust. Stuff mechanics whinge & moan about are like days off to me tbh - not drowning in fumes, dust, dirt, not jammed in under some vehicle, 1" from the blazing arc getting burnt from head to toe, in a space people would laugh at if you asked them to crawl into. Every diagnostic or mechanical repair task is a doddle by comparison - even the ones no garage wants to do. I know you will get that, where most won't have a clue wtf I am on about.
You are absolutely right - boy do I have some miserable stories of working in a blazing hot shop laying on my back welding up rusted rockers, etc. Sparks buzzing around in your ear hole, finding their way in your boot, burning brand new interiors - good times 👍😊
Great video, thank you! How long do you have to wait for the primer to dry and how long does it take to cure when you're done? Is it best to keep it indoors to dry for best results?
Any auto grade primer will dry in about an hour - let it dry over night if concerned. Yes keep indoors if possible or paint the same day to avoid any moisture problems :)
Great video Jerry. I have done these kind of repairs in the past. Was told by someone that this was not proper as fiberglass will not stick to metal ? Seems to stick fairly well I think.
This was taught in vocational schools and used for a long time by lots of body shops. This was my dad's main method and he worked at dealerships. Thanks for checking it out Stephan - enjoy the weekend :)
You're welcome. When it comes to undercoating, you can't beat 3M rubberized but this time I tried out some Harbor Freight rubberized undercoating - we'll see. I think it will do fine. I'm going to hit the underside with COSMOLINE flat black RP342 when everything is done. This is going to be driven rain or shine so I not super concerned with preserving it for the next generation 👍😊
Great question. Here's an example of when it can be used and last just as long - ruclips.net/video/rPTaeH056ng/видео.html - in this case it was faster and easier. Other cases might be around gas tanks if that concerns you and other areas where welding can cause problems - near plastic, windows, sensitive parts, etc. Just a quick answer but this would be a good topic for a short video. Have a great weekend KFR 👍
I live in Montreal. Did the same job on my old Mazda protégé 2001. I went for a mandatory inspection (SAAQ in Québec = DOT in USA) and it did NOT pass. I was told that fiber glass can NOT replace metal ( for the car floor ).
@@LakesideAutobody Magnet probably, or other obvious signs of DIY repairs. The Quebec weather is nasty for vehicles, especially with the tendency to salt rather than plow in the last 10 years. He lives in Montreal, it's painful for cars (and people IMHO) The SAAQ wouldn't pass thoroughly engineered vehicles for political reasons too, but a 2001 Protégé was a danger on the road within 2-5 years anyway.
I must just be one of those weird guys that would rather weld than do a fiberglass repair, I hate the resin, the cloth, the whole 9 lol😅. Very clean job on the repair, it looks very nice! I’ve just done one too many aircraft cowling repairs with fiberglass and I’m over the stuff!
Good budget repair that keeps a car alive....and if later you want to weld it when funds allow you can.... And do a more complete job... But it saves the car in the long term. Awesome... Don't scrap them save them.
@@LakesideAutobody a 1994 heritage and a 1999 standard bagger for long trips, my two sons own my bikes now I am 72 and don't ride any more , but I did buy a 2015 mustang GT convertible for the ram air with out the helmet
Hey bud I apologize for an off topic comment. Can you make a vid discussing how to feather edge paint by hand without a DA sander? I think that’s an important skill to have and I can’t find any vids on RUclips showing it. Thanks.
Great question. Since boats are made of the stuff, hoods, fenders, front clips - I'd say the limit is just your imagination and patience. In reality though I would say maybe a tennis ball size hole is the limit. Again good ? - I have done bigger than that in the old days but eventually moved to all MIG welding
If it's a single panel like this I seal the back with either rubberized undercoat or use Cosmoline RP 342 black. If it's an enclosed panel the best way to prevent future rust is this - ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html
@@LakesideAutobody I made that same repair on both sides of my el camino, behind the seat,I did it several years ago as a temporary repair to buy time, I think it may outlive me
Hi Jerry, Great video. I know you done a video with JB weld. My questions are 1. Does the fiberglass over metal withstand the vibration and etc. 2. Just wondering if resin on the fiber more stronger or JB weld over the fiber?
1. Yes - here's some proof - ruclips.net/video/t1WclT_GMvk/видео.html 2. It doesn't get much easier than the resin as the patch follows the contour really well. I've never heard of using JB with fiberglass cloth but can't really see why it wouldn't work. You certainly can't beat the adhesion properties of JB. Thanks for checking the video out my friend :)
It is the AMX. I'll do an update video on the car soon - it's coming along pretty nice - engine compartment is almost ready to go. Have a great week GM
That’s a good repair for problem areas that will be there long after we’re gone. Thank for the shout out Jerry. Have a great weekend
Before mig welders were so common in home garages, this was our best option for rust repair. My failures were always due to improper prep. That mechanical bond is crucial. And clean metal can be too smooth without prepwork.
One other thing I found is making sure the panel can drain and dry out inside - very important :)
I can use your other videos to guide me with welding but this would be great for a lot of people, Thanks Jerry
There's a lot of folks that get their cars/trucks inspected and want a quick type fix that can be done in the drive way - this is one of those. Thanks for checking it out PVC - have a great weekend my friend :)
This guy makes it look easy
That's what I call the Corvette repair! Looks great!
Thanks 👍- thanks for watching 357 😊
always wanted to know how to use fiberglass......it looks simpler than i thought......may need to use it someday......thanks
Another good one jerry. Thanks.
Nice work, that can out really well. 🛠️😁👍
Great job, now i have the confidence to do my floor.
Thanks Rogers - have a good weekend :)
I once did the whole floor in the van section of a 1970 Ford class c RV that was owned by my boss. Epoxy or polyester resin? Either way it'll be as solid as a welded in metal patch. That RV was still being used till about ten years ago. Nice job!
Thanks - that's a great story for folks to hear. If it's done right this method holds up well. Thanks for the comment and support Bruce 😊
Thank you. I have learned something new here.
You're welcome :)
Nice job
At about 2:19, it looks like there was still a bit of surface rust (and you didn't apply any sort of rust inhibitor) before you applied the resin and glass. Does that mean it's OK to leave a little bit of rust? In other words, does the resin effectively encapsulate that remaining rust so it won't come back?
Yes, it's OK. Of course it would be nice to have all the rust gone but it won't hurt. I think, like you said, it will "seal" it in there. Rust isn't like "alive" - in other words, it doesn't continue to grow when it's encapsulated.
I just used a two and one epoxy mix for my floorpans and it worked like a charm
Good idea - I'm sure that will last longer than the car :)
I use fiberglass mat with kbs rust seal in my trunk floor and it’s held up great for years takes longer to dry and is a little bit more flexible so that helps perhaps you can try that sometime with a moisture cured urethane like kbs, por15, chassis saver or the like
Interesting - thanks for the information. I'll look into trying it one day Dennis. How long did you wait to apply that coating after the glass. Thanks for checking out the video.
@@LakesideAutobody I used the coating as the resin it works great. Por15 sells kits to fix floor mans and that’s what you do. You don’t need fiberglass resin just the por15 or the like and you coat the metal then press the Matt into the coating and coat over top with the por15. Then let it dry. I use kbs instead of por15 however
Try some por-15 and some milled glass fibers for fiberglass mixed in the paint for strength.
Even chop up some fiberglass cloth into little shreds and add it in the paint.
Works great!
Look great I will try it.
Give it a whirl - if you have ?s just ask :)
Lol, I did that ~7 years ago, but I had big holes to fill after I removed the nasty. Fiperglass is too flexible to cover large holes, so my base layer was a PBR box! I coated it with resin on both sides for weather protection, then 2 lyers of 'glass, and after the resin cured I sprayed undercoating outside & brushed Rustoleum inside.
Lasted (at least) until death of my XJ when it got t-boned 😢 other than the missing passeger side floorboard it was rust free!
What's a PBR box - like a beer container?
@@LakesideAutobody yup. I didn't finish the 12 pack before I finished...quick, easy, and after the carpet was reinstalled no one knew.
i have a welder, I could have "done it right", but...i really did it right. It was my DD, I expected that eventually someone would smash it. That's what happened, as I predicted, and my repairs lasted as long as it did.
Hey maybe try this "goo" i created. 😂
Well maybe not,im sure others have.
I had a battery tray that had some rust holes, and instead of doing fiberglass and resin ,i just skipped the 2 part resin and substituted in POR-15.
Yup, lay down your cloth over the hole and apply paint.
Need more strength?
Mix in some milled fibers into the paint.
I put the cloth on, painted it ,let ut cure and came back with a thick coat of por-15 mixed with milled fiber.
Itll take a xouple days to cure up good ,the thicker it is ,but after a kuttle bit of paintable undercoating and a semi gloss black top coat it looks good as new.
Should last a while too as i beadblasted the metal first.
When ya aint got time to mix resin to patch a hole its worked for me a few times.
I'm odd in that like you I do rust repair & mechanical repairs - most don't. Rust repair is the toughest gig going, it's why few want to do it - it's pretty horrendous work most of the time if you do it as a profession, daily. Coal mining would be easier.
Caveat to that is most mechanical repairs are like a holiday in comparison to repairing rust. Stuff mechanics whinge & moan about are like days off to me tbh - not drowning in fumes, dust, dirt, not jammed in under some vehicle, 1" from the blazing arc getting burnt from head to toe, in a space people would laugh at if you asked them to crawl into. Every diagnostic or mechanical repair task is a doddle by comparison - even the ones no garage wants to do.
I know you will get that, where most won't have a clue wtf I am on about.
You are absolutely right - boy do I have some miserable stories of working in a blazing hot shop laying on my back welding up rusted rockers, etc. Sparks buzzing around in your ear hole, finding their way in your boot, burning brand new interiors - good times 👍😊
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise for the his fix. Stay well. Al,NJ
You're welcome my friend - you too :)
Great video! Epoxy resin would maybe work even better(with matching fiberglass)?
👍😊 Thanks for your input Sailor
Great video, thank you! How long do you have to wait for the primer to dry and how long does it take to cure when you're done? Is it best to keep it indoors to dry for best results?
Any auto grade primer will dry in about an hour - let it dry over night if concerned. Yes keep indoors if possible or paint the same day to avoid any moisture problems :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you, I'm up in Canada so we're already around freezing temperature so good to know haha
Great video Jerry. I have done these kind of repairs in the past. Was told by someone that this was not proper as fiberglass will not stick to metal ? Seems to stick fairly well I think.
This was taught in vocational schools and used for a long time by lots of body shops. This was my dad's main method and he worked at dealerships. Thanks for checking it out Stephan - enjoy the weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody You too !
What are you thinking for undercoat? Raptor liner w/epoxy base is sounding pretty bulletproof. 👍Thanks for the great content Jerry.
You're welcome. When it comes to undercoating, you can't beat 3M rubberized but this time I tried out some Harbor Freight rubberized undercoating - we'll see. I think it will do fine. I'm going to hit the underside with COSMOLINE flat black RP342 when everything is done. This is going to be driven rain or shine so I not super concerned with preserving it for the next generation 👍😊
I always love your work.
Thank you so much Mark - thanks for checking this one out - have a good weekend :)
Do you have any guidelines when fiber resin is preferred over metal work? Where does it work well? Where is it a no go? Thanks
Great question. Here's an example of when it can be used and last just as long - ruclips.net/video/rPTaeH056ng/видео.html - in this case it was faster and easier. Other cases might be around gas tanks if that concerns you and other areas where welding can cause problems - near plastic, windows, sensitive parts, etc. Just a quick answer but this would be a good topic for a short video. Have a great weekend KFR 👍
The bigger the whole and rust area it is the harder it will be with fiber glass.
That came out really good!….. can you use fiberglass on lower doors as well?
Yes but it's difficult if the rust is really bad.
I live in Montreal. Did the same job on my old Mazda protégé 2001. I went for a mandatory inspection (SAAQ in Québec = DOT in USA) and it did NOT pass. I was told that fiber glass can NOT replace metal ( for the car floor ).
Interesting - how did they find it?
@@LakesideAutobody Magnet probably, or other obvious signs of DIY repairs. The Quebec weather is nasty for vehicles, especially with the tendency to salt rather than plow in the last 10 years. He lives in Montreal, it's painful for cars (and people IMHO) The SAAQ wouldn't pass thoroughly engineered vehicles for political reasons too, but a 2001 Protégé was a danger on the road within 2-5 years anyway.
Exactly....how did they find it? No way they would ever find a repair the size you did....they're not doing CSI level analysis lol
I must just be one of those weird guys that would rather weld than do a fiberglass repair, I hate the resin, the cloth, the whole 9 lol😅.
Very clean job on the repair, it looks very nice! I’ve just done one too many aircraft cowling repairs with fiberglass and I’m over the stuff!
I like to weld to my friend - I do some glass repairs though for those that would rather use it :)
Great job
👍😊
I’ve got pin holes in my cowl. Thinking about fiberglass the cowl then epoxy prime it
👍😊 Feel free to ask any ?s as you go :)
Thanks for your videos Jerry. Was wondering if your shop is near Perrinton?
I'm 1 hour and 43 minutes north of you. How's Perrinton, MI - nice?
@@LakesideAutobody I’ve got family there. Town is small but nice.
Good budget repair that keeps a car alive....and if later you want to weld it when funds allow you can.... And do a more complete job... But it saves the car in the long term. Awesome... Don't scrap them save them.
You're right John - I'm making this one into a driver - not saving it for anyone else. These cars were built to drive 😊
What kind of paint did you use at the end?
That was some cheap spray bomb primer. Rustoleum Filler Primer in a spray bomb can will work just fine for you 👍🎃😊
that will work just fine buddy ,just learned something good again , cancel that floor panel boss I got this .
Thanks Oldbiker. What type of bike did or do you ride?
@@LakesideAutobody a 1994 heritage and a 1999 standard bagger for long trips, my two sons own my bikes now I am 72 and don't ride any more , but I did buy a 2015 mustang GT convertible for the ram air with out the helmet
Hey bud I apologize for an off topic comment. Can you make a vid discussing how to feather edge paint by hand without a DA sander? I think that’s an important skill to have and I can’t find any vids on RUclips showing it. Thanks.
Absolutely - great suggestion - never thought of that really. I'll try to get to it soon :)
@@LakesideAutobody Excellent. Thank you sir.
What would you say the limit is on hole size for fiberglass to work?
Great question. Since boats are made of the stuff, hoods, fenders, front clips - I'd say the limit is just your imagination and patience. In reality though I would say maybe a tennis ball size hole is the limit. Again good ? - I have done bigger than that in the old days but eventually moved to all MIG welding
Hi Jerry, why MEK? Is that instead of hardener?
MEK is hardener
@@bradrielly7031 ***MEKP - Methyl ethyl ketone peroxide, often paired with metal salts and benzoyl peroxide
I’ve gotta see how much floor is missing!
Barney Rubble once did this to Fred Flinstone's car. Afterwards, he wasn't able to go anywhere 😂😅
👍😊
That looks great but what about rust coming out again don't you use some Rust preventer
If it's a single panel like this I seal the back with either rubberized undercoat or use Cosmoline RP 342 black. If it's an enclosed panel the best way to prevent future rust is this - ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html
Greg has a great channel as well, thats a great shout out Jerry,have a great weekend, drink 3fer me
I only drank one today 🥴 - thanks for watching YY - have a good weekend my friend 👍
@@LakesideAutobody I made that same repair on both sides of my el camino, behind the seat,I did it several years ago as a temporary repair to buy time, I think it may outlive me
ok
You didn’t get rid Of The rust
My compressor is a bit small - could have blasted it a bit better for sure. You get the idea though right?
Hi Jerry, Great video. I know you done a video with JB weld. My questions are
1. Does the fiberglass over metal withstand the vibration and etc.
2. Just wondering if resin on the fiber more stronger or JB weld over the fiber?
1. Yes - here's some proof - ruclips.net/video/t1WclT_GMvk/видео.html
2. It doesn't get much easier than the resin as the patch follows the contour really well. I've never heard of using JB with fiberglass cloth but can't really see why it wouldn't work. You certainly can't beat the adhesion properties of JB. Thanks for checking the video out my friend :)
hack
ruclips.net/video/t1WclT_GMvk/видео.html
Great video Jerry, is this on the amx? Or something else
It is the AMX. I'll do an update video on the car soon - it's coming along pretty nice - engine compartment is almost ready to go. Have a great week GM
Thank you Jerry, you too!